ITALIAN LAKES & ISLANDS YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE * CULTURE * TRAVEL * PEOPLE * FOOD 25 MUST-SEE MEUWELCOME! Welcome to lela! magazine’ L6page Lak Guide ch travel ideas, eincraris ie for planning and making the most of any getaway to Ialy’s beautflislnels and lakes, Offerin breatheaking wealth of beauty and diversity this guide aims to bring you the best of eve destination, Wha 3 ieculeurl ci lakeside cette, youl find all h m favourites such as Como and Garda right here F Sicily and Sardinia to leser-knov, Isco, Elba and th 1 type of tp youre looking for, k family beach getaway of chilled inspiration you need Acolian Islands, discover the histor calture and highlights ofeach location, aswell as th atand stay. Within the two colour-coded Lakes and one for Islands), our experts show you iconie places to vist, as well ided city tours and top atractions like historic gardens, local festivals an ry spots. This guide wil help you find your destination — date as posible, b «ve made sure the information isas up-to always che ‘Amanda Robinson Eitor UNO wlee Ae or pe eee ery rte [e924] ~tumtopge30and rovers an sue! LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 Pie See ey ae ee eae ART EDITOR Sam Grover COT Tene) PNET eee eens Sey Hannah Bellis,Joe Gareman, Jane Gifford, lisbeth Mackenzie, Rachael Martin, Sahota anaes eee cs et as Sara Scarpa, Laura Thayer, Kate Wickets PONG USNR unc ween proornur eee MARKETING Rosi Pankhurst peor per ove Ferran hirer eaters need www.italytravelandlife.com DEPUTY MANAGING DIRECTOR Sally FiteGerald Peon ae MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Lewis mer bevie(genthen cask Cra emer pete ere SUBSCRIPTIONS & BACK ISSUES SORES) Mane) sea Peete Fork ha eeescee Daa ate ee EeerOrcoseny PYRG ee mest Geren eonn Tr oe Peery LICENSING ENQUIRIES Regina Erak eae eat iene Pee cera rent te earn ANTHEM| PUBLISHING Ji ees Pesta Pere Pee Peon Era cesta pet hraboed acetel Ee NCEE DEEIN YOUR GUIDE Fa 2 reer Chet near r iy nation’s most captivating destinations irc) Pertierra ee Coenen tsc) Ene serr ry Franciacorta region with Lorenza Bacino Rene cach Pe eure aa Breen eer Para ony ene eer Pelee grrr hd Arc peer ona eee eats Tate eto ee Leet eanee ant eens ro Eee ey Saas errr Pas ae iW maT Peet nee ees Pee ee Ce ey Peer et eh ty Peace eee) Ere aats Dea eee area eee Deena ISLANDS Penne cg ernest rae Peretti oes Cea Pere eet Semen nee Coury ene eS Se Eee tet etry rey Lorenza Bacino explores thstiny province et cc Det oe Gartman meets Palermo'spuppeteers Pennine Ue teeny w Cy Ed Ey eee een eens frereeceer er eats cette Pr Cnc) Soft turquoise soas and harsh granite eee TEC) Renee aay Mary Novakovich explore Vad Noto in ene en eer Peete tery ELBA eee aad the Tuscen mainland to spenda weekend cece stay PC er ene een en Peart cay terre een ceo eRe er oc on men NN eerie en ee Pro piecn a ens Peay Pes eee ene Sete on onMORE TO READ Poe cary Pe eet USASUBS OFFER Never miss anfssue ere eee Seen rea FOOD FOR THOUGHT... eee s eared etc SIG crn) Cela Penis eases) Cerro) Papin) Sateen ten nog caLake Gada the Pre Ct eeea ra = e aq E 5 tat B Dramatic landscapes and shimmering waters - the Italian lakes have all this and more. Read on to find your perfect lake break LAKES & ISLANDS 20237DISCOVER ITALIA! ala glance Welcome to Italy’s lakes - among the nation’s most beautiful and enduringly popular destinations. Here we introduce six favourite lakes and their many highlights ea t a a es Es fool 3 =} Daas tte > mes eon ene Pe es en) mrs Pees ol Lombardy > OGRAPAY ery eet eran er) Peet Prec Cece os) orig > overview race coat t in roi Dead Ss recy eerie’ ‘omontcretventand as et reer DIMENSIONS Tasman asa surface areof 28square ores, maximo epthofsixmetresanda ‘hose that stetches Siders. ecion Umbra ‘crocrapiy ‘remarkably shallow Lake, Fasimenois sounded by low ils andeninentl petty countryside, ‘overview Proce, beaut Tasmene's rh restate fish and as severl pretty beaches The fourth legest ake in aly, Tasimena oat population sreatoly smal adits tanqut shores area haven for made a Natural Park in 1095 to protec the lekesenvronment and local spies. Idoest seeasmuchtoursn as Talysnorthorn aks, buttherearevarious places to stay around hela andon ts thee sands. castigtone de [ig nd Pasignano sul ‘Wasmenoare two popuar lakeslde towns, aestFoR Nature ves, kg ‘ting tals, shin.es a ee) eer akecaul ep you eres raed eo 4s meriey Sona ten ees Sr) > pINeNsions ses surface arats5 square lometes, ts ‘maximum depth 251 tmetresand ite shorts 6tometies REGION Lamardy > ceocRarIny Formed by alae, ions of years ago, seo not entyhas the largest ake andin ope (Montes), buts enjoys varied Lake Garda covers s70squarellonetes, with total shorting (0f145 Klometes an Thosouthorn prt ofthe lakes charactrisad by {ts prety, predominantly lonying countryside, whith raw, rte part of thee {smore dramatic with the andscae becoming Increasingly mountainous asttmoves north tive (groves and vineyards are regular feature ofthe ‘Scenery around the ak, primetr ncuding ‘the Pyramids of one (eroded lca deposts ‘thathave fomed ples ofearthup totenmetres gt and theTorbere patbogs tonardsthe lakessoth ‘vERIEW Iseoic one ftheleast sted aly porter aks, buts ibd with ararebeautyand charm, at est ake offer something forall 2gesandtastes, witha de range of pertng facies store sghts, picturesque towns nd tena few amusement parks rounds shores. ‘Themaintouns for str incude Sone, Malerne, Linon and adel Garé, alot ie mak charming ses ae ofera god range efhatisand restaurants. Boattrips offer afabuousvayto seethe sights ineutiag ‘hele fe isands, > BEST FOR Watersports, food rink, amy tds. cove:p24 Thesceneystound => BESTFOR ‘tisprdoninantly Walking &cyting, autnasathe _NtessBtows oo has plethora of prety istorictonne,™ COTO*PA7 Incuting 1s, Sai, Psogneand Marne, Frandacorta vineyards, canbe fund just south of the ak, se’ surace covers 1135 llometres, wth amaxinumdepthot ‘ssi metresand ashortin 68 ilometres. REGION Lazio Geoararn Tis bread, alles ‘hereto volane act hundreds of thousands of years. egenteedgesare predominantly gen oer toftatbenchesané tng sate shorting ‘dotted withancent ‘ishing vilages. Tanks ‘other leans, uch of the srounding ‘os agrtra with la Ce es Coed es een countess vines ote (rover ondvhest lds. overview ae olsen, though popular summer with hoiaying Roman, s stiltanely undiscovered by foreign vistors. This asap ts peace and at prtacty tact forthosewhode vist. Thesuroundingscenay ‘lovely andtheareas settlement etal thee ‘radia chars. Te ‘owns of ozena ad ontsfiasconeoferthe most cole erfoodand commodston| BESTFOR “anqutty, swinng, istry KES & ISLANDS 2023 9 hee eI ey iS E 2 se Ss ia i? B RS YPee es = } aarae eras Creag Poser Come to Como ‘Ten reasons to love Lake Como Ros Ormiston reveals ten of the best reasons to visit captivating Peel Ro NC meses TCE AREA CO NAINAGMAREUGADra 4 Es = ei DISCOVER ITALIA! Lake Como was colonized by the Romans in the 2nd century BC and has been a haven for relaxation and vacationing ever since twas called Lacus Lari by the Roman oct Virgil (70-19 BC) ~and indoedis stil sometimes refered toasLaro.Itwas ‘mentioned in the letters ofthe Roman senator Pliny the Younger (61-113 AD), who {said to have owneda vila onthe shores ofthe ake and whose unde the natural historian Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD), was certainly bornin Como. Lake Como‘s Italys third largest lake, after Garda and Maggiore, and is theonly ‘one of those tree tobe ntirely within the region of Lombardy. Itis shaped tke an inverted tits northern end, onthe eastern bank, is the town of Calico. Atthe southernmost pointof the western spuris Como, wile Lecco lies atthe southernmost tip of the ‘astorn spur Bellagio, which attracts many visitors, ison the peninsula where the two spursof the ake meet. ‘Ashort drive up from Milan brings you tothe lakeshore road wherein the 19th ‘contury small fishing vilages began to ‘expand to become modern lakeside resorts The ancient town of Como, the capitals known fr the traditional local industry of silksweaving, with busysishops inthe ‘contre and factory outlets onits perimeter. From hereyou can board a ferry to many lakeside towns between hereand Colic, nearly 30 miles away. Alternatively you can follow the route by car. BBLAKES& ISLANDS 2023 BELLAGIO IS PICTURE PERFECT with vibrant cafés and restaurants and busy shops. and isalso home o the stunning Villa Melz. This 19th-cencury summer residence was buil for Francesco Melai dEril, Duke of Lodi. The Neoclassical tastes ‘ofthe Duke can beeen in the villa and its chapel, che work of che Swiss-born architect Giocondo Albeolli,a man so revered that Napoleon made him a Knight of the Iron Crown. The vill isa private residence, bu the gardens chapel and former orangery museum are open to visitors all summer. The beaueful and tranquil gardens, designed by architect Luigi Canonica and botanist Luigi Villoresi offer lush foliage. seasonal colours and winding paths surrounded by several types of eypresses, camellia, azaleas, gingko and dozens of other types of exotic tees and sculpeares. ‘The Villa Melei gardens are perfect for escaping the bustle of Bellagio while raking advantage of the fabulous lakeside views. Open from March to October. wuwiardiniivilametz.it CE a ‘THIS ISTH-CENTURY VILLA on the edge of the Tremezzo part of the lake at Lenno has beautiful interiors with wood: panelled rooms and wonderful mouneain the arts patron and scholar Cardinal Durini and was lst owned by the first Italian co climb Moune Everest, the adventurer Count Guido Monzino. As well as beaurifully decorated rooms there isalso an incredible collection of souvenirs from Monzino’s adventures, including his dog sled from a trek co the North Pole in the 1970s, as well as books and maps from no fewer than 20 of his other expeditions. Monzino left the property t0 the FAI the lealian National Trust), which keeps che villa ashe left ic and tends to the wonderful garden with its immaculate eres and terraces filled with anne See eer) sculprures, As you'd expect with such a spectacular backdrop, the vill isa popular choice with film directors and has had roles in blockbusters such as Sear Wars and Casino Royale. Open al year ound, win.fondoamblent.t/luogh/la-del-balbtanelo ee tasSRS serene ae kere LOCATED IN CADENABBIA, facing the peninsola of Bellagio, is this 18th-century majestic treasure trove of arcand sculptures with beautiful picces from renowned artists and. sculptors such as Francesco Hlayez’s Las iss of Romeo and Juliet, Palamedestvy Anconio Canova as well as Eros and Pyche by Adamo Tadolini In 1843 the villa becamea wedding gfe wo Carlota, daughter of Albert of Prussia, and it now houses fabulous pieces of furnieure and décor from thar period. I's surrounded by a ‘wonderful park of approximately eight hectares, fll of vibrant thododendrons, fragrant magnolia and bamboo. I's been adored by many including he 19th-cencury Italian poet and arc critic Enrico Panzacchi, who said ofit, “From the terrace in Villa Carlotta my soul enjoyed the view of the water and mountains and the poetic laughter of dawns and sunsets” I usta skip aay from the ferry terminal, oF you could hie a boat from ‘Nautic Planer (www.nautiplanet.com), with or without a driver. (Open from March to October. wwwailtacartttait (QE | Before you indulge in the finest fabric in the world, takeatrip to che Como Silk Museum, which gives an overview of the entire process fom silkworms to fashion collections. The passion seeps through the displays of samples and instruments, Silk from Como is revered ‘workdwide and stems from the introduction of mulberry trees around the lake by Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, in the 1Sth century: sikworms, farmers and craftsmen did the rest. There are many shops around Lake Como selling beauifl silk items from ddessing gowns to ties; brands tha are well nown include Frey, Rate, Mantero (the producer (of Chanel scarves) and Seteria Bianchi, Brands like Rati encourage programmes for young, designers, so have a look through the markers and silk boutiques for new names producing vibrant designs that look fabulous and should last very long time. www.museosetacome.com 5) Vintage steamer and water plane rides WHAT COULD BE MORE ROMANTIC than sitting back and enjoying Lake Como from the decks of the peer Concordia vineage steam boat, builtin 1926 ony swith orginal ‘Liberty’ styledeor and now recognised as the ewel of Como’ flee of public ferries? You can cruise across the lake beeween Como and Varenna with several places en-route to hop on and of including “Tavemola, Cernobbio, Molerasio, Lenno and Bellagio. You can purchase tickets, including those with lunch, ehrough wow. ravigazionelagh st ‘Alternatively, ifyou fancy a bird’ eye view; then try a thrilling light in an Idrovolance ‘waterplane with Aero Club Como. Founded in 1913, thisis he oldes seaplane operation and fight school in the world. Find hidden parts of the lake withthe incredible panorama ofallts scenery slong with che final excitement of landing on water. Ifyou get hooked, you can also sign up fora course in becoming apilo yourself. www.aerocubcome.com WHERETOSTAY HOTEL EXCELSTOR SPLENDIDE Va Lungo Lago Manzoni 28 = 27021 Bellagio worhsplencide.com Tre-tat hotel et ina 1907 Art Nouveau bing onthe akesnore promenade, losetotheferrystopand ‘ate to location, Fabulous views. GGRAND HOTEL CADENABBIA Va Regina, 1 = 22011 Cadenabbia i Griante wrw.grandhotelcadenabbia.it Originally private vila, many ofthe rooms in this star hotl have lake views the rooftop restaurant serves anexcellentmens, and the exquisite ‘outdoor bar overlooks thelake HOTEL VILLA FLORt a Cornobbio, 12~22100 Como ww.hotavilatorit Renovated in 2011, this tar hotel occupies an historicvillabultby the Warchese Raimond! nthe 19th cantury. is setrightonthe lakeside between Como and Comobbi, ‘IstA PALAZZO Piazza Cavour, 24~ 22100 Como woristlagodicomo.com ‘Anopulent 100m hotel wth the tows First rooftop restaurant, Sottovoce. The salmon-pnk bling, ovetooking the lake, isin the Venetian ste, Is Coma's premier five-star accommodation buthas ro swimming pot or spa, HOTEL RISTORANTE LA DARSENA, a Regina, 3~ 22016 Temezzna woreladarsena.tt Tee star faily-un lakeside tel wth an excellent esturantand views: Wore. bu LAC adel Prestng, 11 ~ 23820 Varenna wn albergodulc.com Fourstar hotel right onthe astern lakeshore. A privatevilabultin 1823, and stored inthe mid-20th century. ‘The perfect cation fom whieh to explore Lake Como. Fy wi sro cu LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 23 > =ee gio, known asthe Pearl of Lake Como’ Hop onthe tte tourist train hee (€5) minute tour through the town, passing Vila Gila andVilla Serbellon, where Piny the Younger’ villa raged’ {sthought to have stood. “Another place youreally should see whileyou areon Lake Como s Villa Carlotta at Cadenabbia. Wedon’tknow who the architect ofthis 18th-century house was bu the gardens are a sumptuous treat for the horticltualy-inctined, andthe Villas also a spacial place to visit forts extraordinaryart collection andtake views. The third place on this shorist should go to Vila Melzt at Bellagio The Duke of Lod’ summer home's of-imits to uninvited uests ast stlla private residence, but Luigh Canonica and Luigi Viloes’s botanical gardens ar open to the publicforsix months of the year and arerenownedas some of thefinest in Italy. Finally would recommend Villa del Bal spectacular view of tis pure delight you arrive by ferry orwater tax: alternatively, one can walkor cycle along the _eninsular spur from Lenno to reach itby and route ITLIAAN LAKE THE eee Par ae iaes Playing an important par in the history of Come, from Roman times tothe Middle Ages, ce island is considered to be one Cntr e rane in northern Italy: Excavations chat rook place in the early 20ch century discovered many sites oF interest, including the Basilica di Sant’Enfeumia, one of the most important basil ‘e : E a z sien century, and the Church of San Giovanni, You'l also find ch Peer Sse acer ene Preteen non esse Da one aet Fine of pblicarion he lA is closed othe public athe landing” eee et age eee) Rteeraee cee ans = oa = yj Preee er@rorerirs ties TAKE A TRIP to the piceuresque village of Neso. There are fabulous placesto visi, including the Church of San Pierro and San Paolo, believed to date back to the 11¢h. century and rebuilt in ehe 17eh ceneury in the Baroque style. Another aeration is Neso' steep waterfall visited by many, including Leonardo da Vinci, who mentioned ie in is Cadex dtlanticus. Blue waters lie beneath the gorge’s steep waterfill made ofthe alpine waters ofthe Tuf and Nosé. There are several ways to see i: cake a walk up several hundred steps into central Piazza Castello, where you will see and hear the gushing water: or go down to the shore and se i from the Roman bridge: a third alternative i to see the waterfall from a boat on the lake: 6 for the more daring, why not take adip in the blue ‘waters beneath the waterfall ise? nae * EOE fen ‘THIS PETITE BUT VERY ELEGANT Mateos TOWNonthewestem | | arandmitretie shores of che lake has an inceresing history: it was fall ofParcsans during the Second World War and isalso homeo the neoclassical Villa Pascalacqua. Ie was builein the lace 18ch century and later became home to the composer Vincenzo Bellini, Surrounded by beautifil gardens and once one ofthe largest residences oon Lake Como, it isnow astunning luxury hotel (worm passalacquatt), “Towards the lake, and only sen from che water (orby private invieation) is Villa La Fontenelle, the former home of fashion designer Gianni Versace, whose beautiful gardens were curated by the English are and landscape historian Sit Roy Secong. In the town of Molerasio you will se the frescoed church of San Martino and SantAgata, dating back to the 13ch century and housing the Holy Thorn, claimed to be afragmene from the Crown of Christ. >> LAKES & ISLANDS 200835sus IU UO DLV, DISCOVER ITALIA! IN THE NORTHERN, ALTO LARIO, part of Lake Como is the town of Gravedona home of Palazzo Gali, the residence of Bartolomeo Galio, locally born Cardinal of che Holy Roman Church, long with the wonderful l4th-century fescoes of the late 12th century church of Santa Masia del Tiglio. If you're feling sporty, there are plenty of opportunities on this part ofthe lake such as windsurfing and canoeing when it’ calm in the morning, and then kitesurfing and sailing arr in che day when the wind picks up. On land, there is as much fun to be had with go-karsing, eckking and horse-iding. One of the loveliese ways to see Gravedona is by bike ~ there are several trails fr all levels with woods and lake views, not to mention the wonderful ait. www.gravedona.t/ta eof eens cee FOR THOSE WITH A SPRING IN THEIR STEP, there isa fabulous hike up to the peak of Monte Grona, over 1,700 metres above sea level and with 360-degree views on a clear day across Lake Como, Lake Lugano and che Swiss and Iralian Alps. Depending on your fitness, ic could take four to five hours to complece ~ and be sure to take supplies of \water (there isa water refill ration), power bars and warm clothes asthe skies can cur from blue to grey without warning up there. You start by heading towards Rifugio Menaggio, where you ean also recharge later with local specialities like polenta and misoltin, fl up om drinks, including wine, and even spend the nigh For more details and tips, youll find more information online. wuw.explrelakecome.com/go/hiking-monte-geona 36 LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 (half board costs around €45 per person). Tis wonderfu ntking country WHERETO EAT OSTERIA DEL GALLO VaVitani, 16 - 22100 Como 12290021 386 2025, ‘An intimate Family.run osteria. he ‘menu, whichis renewed daily reflects the rch cal produce ILRISTORANTE SPLENDIDE, BELLAGIO HOTEL EXCELSIOR a Lungo Lari Manzoni, 28 — 22021 Bellagio. wwcheplendide.com Splendid lakeside restaurant/caféhas superb menu to match the fabuious vow arosthe ake (S0e"Whorto Say formoredetais,) [AZIENDA AGRICOLA SORSASSO Via Gaggio 1/Bis-22013 Comaso Enjoy afabulous election of ashes ftom rsh ocal produce, wth tei own Sorssso wine (stl and sparing) app olvecil andthe best sevice, ILRISTORANTE DULAC adel restno, 11 ~ 23829 Vrenna \www.albergodulac.com Enjoy adesicious culinary experience whether youareseated on theterrace or Inthelakesde garden ofthis fabulows restaurant/hotal in Varenna (See'Where to'Stay formore details), reper Ceper ie ote ns Soreaese Perrier) encores Goreme? > Rosaind travel Laka moa eee ena lan Malpensa prt, ane ranserto Conn rrr eee eres Payee see ee)xe road snakes steply upwards towards the village of Erbusco, a few kilometres south ‘of Lake leo,’ in the Franciacorta wine region and Tm trying cofind my hotel for the night. So far it cludes me Th as ease around onderul villa ceveals itself sound of buzzy bees and the scent of wiseria drape like a manele around my shoulders. ve acived at LiAlbereta ~a 19th-century former family home and now a five-star Ted ee Relais & Chieaux horel Inside, LAlherea (www allberetait) isa labyrinth of contemporary design and elegance: an idyllic and tranquil seteing wich 38 rooms and a Henri Chenoe spa and wellness cenere. There are rts, an indoor heated uzzi, with horse sand golfbat a away. I's also a place to enjoy excellent food and the local Franciacorea wine No ewo rooms are decorated in the same way. The prevailing tones are warm terracotta pale greens and yellows ~and some rooms are decorated with frescoes depicting stories from times LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 97 NVITVLIGH.L VT iS aan ATY Teed ea : Z : DISCOVER ITALIA! WHERE TO EAT AND STAY RISTORANTE ZU a XXV April, Riva Soto ~Lagod seo 9199035996004, Waw.rstorantezu.tt Elegant aksice locaton specialising in tretona loca cuisine, espacial fh, RISTORANTE PANORAMICO A FONTENO a Palazzne, 30 Fnteno 999035960027, wa. panoramicohotel.com/en Panoramic action with traditional [AGRITURISMO ELGTARDL a Monte Marone, 9 Marone war.etgtardtt Hse restaurant th ake view LASPIAGGETTA A MONTEISOLA a Sensole, 26 Monte ola 1999030988 6141 Serving freshly anded lake sh and othe local specaites. RELAIS FRANCIACORTA a Manzoni, 29 Clombaro dt Corte France waw.relastranctacertast Gorgeous, typical Fancacorta-tle vilafhotl. Would be a grat location for edings or special evens HOTEL RIVALAGO Via lui Cadorna, 7 ~Suzano = ¥39030985011 won.rvalago.t Recently renovated, wth beautiful lakesielocation ard ostdoor poo |ARABA FENICE HOTEL a Fenice, 4, 1520 ¥39030982 2004 worn. arabafentcehotelt/en Romantic aksie location, wth vews ver Monteleoa Wiews over Lake seo pater es Barone Pizint, where the eared 8 LAKES & ISLANDS 2 Maa hoponsncergand er | | \ aXTe ee eS Ler ee Psat as StS et ee EO a ed rote rnc tens bottles year, mostof which are _longand 4.5 kilometres wide. Tenjayed sampling some fizz Pere ne a at ere ee ee atoneofthe oldest wineriesin countries. Here I earn thacictakes another small body of land rises thearea,Barone Pizzini(www. two andahalfyearstoproduce dramatically from is depths ro Leese Nc eee te eo itselfon producing wines from only harvested in mid-August, by hand, 2,000 inhabieants spread across eer ee Ee a yt Re see tetra tenes Gazing around ourside the Ae Cuero ssi See er aS eee it Me can achieve this because two thirds low. dotted with abbeys. churches, _iscobike:com) to show me around. Ss ae ere a een Cea ocr a Te aera ea Pee ene ter Cen Ca ceed er eae Seer ona yi > Ware ee ee TO Ce ee a DELTA TL) i 2 SIAVT NVITVLISHL eoa ea Lon be THE ITALIAN LAKE! DISCOVER ITALIA! oe peed Pactra) feet ent) eeeerct eel eee cay eet ened Flas Chateaux Alberta, Vi Vittoro on et panera! See ed Cote t ee eae ce eee need eee SCR ies pra ee er ey Eee eos 20 LAKES & ISLANDS 20: occ! Pee eee Tern Pd ete ee ns ire een ens ere seine eee oe oy ieee tees families and groups, varying in Pere ene nerieeger ay Soren hamlets. Hecan either accompany you orleave ic up o you to explore. He also organises walking tours of Franciacorta and canoeing tips on cane ates eeu a os Pes esa Ue T 4 around the island isnt a hard ride, Peter ee g ney Pere ene er tate perioral Eo Seen eee tie ee eee ny ee a te See parasce cee ne Tague = haere sea Beh oe ne ee os oe i fa 5 =) i “a 5 > Ea i Captali Mctacharn (1884-1964) as educated at Eton and Oxford and developed his passion for gardening after his father bought Calloway House in 1908. He bought the estate at Pallanzajin 1930 Band filled its 40-acre gardens with plant varieties from aroun the word. He left fr Australia atthe outbreakof war, bequeathing ) thevilla and gardens to the Italian state, butreturnéd after the war and opened the gardens tothe public in 1952.1 wonnillataranto.t/en/gardens/Lake Garda, the largestof the Italian lakes, can also be the most crowded. Chris Allsop travelled to its western, Brescian, side in search of quieter spots, and discovereda rich vein of history... Sea eceN Per)THE ITALIAN LAK DISCOVER ITALIA! fall the Talia lakes, it Garda — with itsenviably temperate climate ~ that really pulls in ehe punters. At the northern end (‘Alto Garda), che blue waters spear into rugged Trentino and the pine-scented foothills ofthe Dolomites. Travelling south, the lake widens out to 18 kilometres and the cafés and restaurants dotted amid the promenades and marinas have adistincdly Mediterranean style. ‘A miniature Med on theie doorsteps is hardly going to be ignored by che shivering masses of northern Europe. Interest in Garda has also been stoked by the 2017 Oscar-winning film Call Me by Your Name, hich used the famous Grottoes of Catullus asa location. Buc Ganda, wih its busy ferries and 150 kilometres of shoreline, does make it easy to flee the summertime crowds and find an entirely new (both literally and figuratively) side tothe lake. e's something discovered on ashore visit co the side of the lake chat falls within Brescia a pare chat felt breezy and untroubled by the deluge of tourism that as the Venetians and Ligurians, in particular, pushing back. And ic was centred around ewo beaurifal destinations with intriguing historic. GLORIOUS GARGNANO- If you'e seeking a refuge from the crowds, hen come to Gargnano, Larrived by tour boat, having just bobbed near the palatial Venetian-style villa ‘on Isola del Garda ~ the only inhabited island of the lake’ five - wonderinghow Lady Charlocte Cavazza, ‘who apparently lives permanenely on this manicured isle with hee seven children and thei families, has managed to do so without burning che entre place xo the ground. (IFyou fancy acloser look yourself, 26 LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 ‘guided tours ofthe island are available.) Perhaps she sneaks off ro quiee Gargnano fora breather. Positioned abour halfway up the easter coast, the pretty town stretches out luxuriously along the lakeside. A jostle of bright buildings greets me as I disembark, and sneak a swift espresso macchiato ata seat with a view ofthe far coastline, che gently sloping mountains earning vivid green as the ashen blues ofthe overcast momningare bume offby the strong sun, My reverie is interrupeed by a dousing of cold water upon my legs ~ the wake froma passing boat has sid beneath the pit. Time to go Despite is relative remoteness, Gargnano isnt sleepy when ie comes to history. The grand Villa Feltinelli~ now a super-plush resore wich a two: Michelin-starred restaurant ~ used to be Benito Mussolini home during the bref few years when he declared this area the Republic of Sald (more on thar later) Less Fascist and more fruity s Gargnano’s role as a preserver of Garda’s sweet-scented past as northem Europe's main lemon producer, something that was enabled by the unique climate (lemon trees are rare at chis aticude). And any local B&B worth its sale will have somewhere in their brochure details about D.H. Lawrence and his then lover, and later wife, Frieda Von Richthofen, who chose Gargnano asaplace to liv for several months (a plague marks the house where they stayed). Arriving a the start of the 20th century, Lawrence wrore about che areas “exquisite scent of mon flowers’ ar atime when some 400 lemonarics(limonuic) sill produced fruit ‘on Garda step hillsides In Gargnano today, theres only one working ‘example that remains, Limonala Malora. The renovated L6th-cenury structure, clambering up a series of stone erraces, is aliving muscum run by Fabio Gandossi and his family. Led by my tour guide, >Cocks from tp len Lake Gard is ust famed forts lemons Te view rom the timonata orthwards up the lake Limonata Malora inGargano Fabio fabulous timencello verde The orignatfames ofthe timonaia Lady chatote Gavazz vil on Iola del Ganda | WHERETO STAY AND EAT VILLA GIULIA Via imembranza, 20 Gargrano oravlagillalakegarda.com Thissophisticated four-star offers lt waterfront value, Owned by ‘the Bombardel fail, ila Giaa's ‘offer madera style and romantcrustic vibe. There's an indoor pool and spa, and lovey gardens arrayed with climbing roses The epic akeide terace— served bya Micheln-stared restaurant ~is torehitat right. RISTORANTE LATORTUGA Via XV Magia, 5 ~Gargnano sacstorantelatortug st Sited close tothe town’s main square — anda popular spot foraromartic right ‘out= Michelin stared La Tortuga has ‘asearonal menu pled witha legendary wine list. Expect shessuchasseared scallops served with cream ofbrlt beans and rosemary oi and be sure to bookto beat those hungry loversto 2 table, Hore. BELLERIVE Via Pietro da Sal 11 Salo wivahotatbelleivest Adusky blue bulding fronting onto 2 marina, Hotel Bellerive five-star boutique hotel with an arty streak, The Le Rve Restaurant rans on the natural resources ofthelocal area andthe hotels her garden to puttogether debcious dishes sucha pasta withrabit ragout, sage gel and true. lemongrass. “The staffare sparky and rindly, wile ‘the pali-shaded pool area hasarice apertfbe. (OSTERIA DIMEZZO Via Mezzo, 10~ Salo swivaostertaimerzo.st sophisticated yet homey ostria ‘tucked avayin a cll betveen the high street and the promenade, Osteria Oi Mezzo serves a procession ‘of pecs, flavourful ses, but it’s ‘thelr interpretation of tamisithat biow your mind. Abowke chocolate fiter drips hot coffee onto the dessert sponge before meting inwards LAKES & ISLANDS 2028 27 i E 7 PB iy SDISCOVER ITALIA! 105 DEE UUOTLU BB LU CNY Maria Pasotti of enogastronomic tour company Good cls rom Food, Good Mood, Tenter through aclond oflilac ——_tplet: bougainvillea, marvelling ar the deep green leaves nots tutes of che century-old trees reachingro the roof ofthe cheese nthe wooden framework, Capers scramble over the terraces ageing cellar like ivy. During che shore tour, Fabio shows us the ane ancient stone channels previously used fr ivgation thee (he prudently employs sprinkler system eoday): an ry employ 2 The charming original storage house (particularly rare as mosthave __ Mecharming been converted into homes): and the innumerable res ofa Sod fom the water numbered boards with glass panes chat he places, over a laborious two-week period, onto the imomaiat —_prhitectura detatt frame wo create a protective greenhouse forthe tees insad| between November and March. Tomasosnisicos bea tawa me Maria Thavean added extra: an incredible lanch high in che monaia with immense views across The step of te Garda. A bow of pappa al pomadaro with rich lake prasad stracciatellas followed by a slice of sbrisolona. On feet ea the ake, aswid of sails marks a regu Fabio cracks ‘out his home-made limoncello, A glass or two later betel Pm buying a borele, but ater regret not picking up his unusual Verde a well ~ a sharp version using 28 LAKES & ISLANDS 2023only the green skin of young lemons that could have been a champion cocktail mixer. Speaking of mixers, also pick up ajarofhislemon jam. An ealier stop (on Maria foodie tour saw us dive into the bounty of Gargnano’s Bignott deli, witha tasting of ahandfal of the ewenty or so cheeses the deli somehow produces in irs cramped back cellar. During aging the cheeses soak up the flavours of the lakeside environs which, when paired with a dollop of jam made from zesty Garda lemons, isa true este of Gargnano (especialy good with the local ricota). SOUTH TO SALO To the south of Gargnano is Sala. A large lakeside cown of pastels and earthenware warmth, Sad is situated on a gulf chat shares its name. The pace of Life is slow, the marble walkways generous, Locals chat in the shade ofthe horse-chesenuts lining the Tongcentral square, while rourists browse the aie conditioned boutiques ining via Mattia Butcurini, searching for antiques or bikinis. The sun is high, and 'veleft my hae inthe hotel room, so Tm wandering beeween the shadows oF buildings and cool colonnaded corridors. I divere down to the rose ‘marble promenade ~ che longest on the lake ~ and encounter a statue of Gasparo da Sald, the inventor of the violin. Magnolias and palms ine the waterfront. Here, small boat traffic is busy, and the orange of children’s lif jackets in the midday sun is asbrighe as flares, Other families lounge in the cafés beating the scultifying hea with heaped sundaes Iesalmose ashame, chen, co dwell on a darker historical aspect of this gorgeous, family-friendly holiday spot. But, like the knowledge that this area lies on aseismic zone (the lae significant quake was {in 2004), you would barely believe that this water sportsidyl also used robe the HQ of Mussolini Italian Social Republic (also referred to as the Republic of Sal) becween 1943 and 1945. The town doesn’t try to ide the fact, instead labelling the various buildings wieh multi-lingual plaques shat take you = ra seeeeitehere (on atour of some of itsimpressive buildings, generally gathered near che waterfront or the main areas of town, Ifyou rather duck into an air-conditioned :museum, check our the impressive MUSA (via Brunati, 9) which has a permanent exhibition on the Republic of Sal with English descriptions. Burifyou decide to wal the streets, procure a map (in Italian, but clear at the tourise information cenere showing the locaton of the 17-odd buildings. Finally be ure you plot in a restoraive Aperol sprite at lakeside Bar Iealia on Lungolago Zanardelli, (previously Mussolini's Casa del Fascio), and glari (especially La Casa del Dolce by che cathedral fr fuel smugin the knowledge thar the queues for ice eream are definitely shorter on this side ofthe lake. GETTING THERE ert et een eee eae eee Se eee ere Sees LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 29 IS osVd like to subscribe to Italia! UK Print Subscription 3 isues for £5 by Direct Debit or Continuous Cre Card. Then £14.99 every 6 months thereafter Tile freane suman aso cay ina ston! Phe et hstmtton stat ton atid a ep homed abou or saben Wu may ustcre an tee mesaps tye. ‘ete Pabihing a ete os up tod wt ews ets pei os nana rout eda fen you Pe ek eer be wine ow you wou es be orate anos ethan a nal Tskpore SMS Io inks Mata tne uw tp rosin enol conmurators om datum Pbltingo can ubscitewig enka ena ou Roe ad fo va Shon anhe putishingcaypey [INSTRUCTION TO YOUR BANK OR BUILDING SOCIETYTO PAY DIRECT DEBIT pean ene 1 Name of your Banko Buk Society (s]3|7J1fs}) ex 2htame cf aot et) See QUOD 4 ero wer OOODOOo000 Shstcn yur l/l Sey Pos pon Ronde Den hn dean ebh s nna Pe sant {Sli Oe bene wat bs mn trea ween NN Sebnlepant ees ip mesg isu) Dae ‘ec Dem GUARANTEE Devi tein eth nh a a dy ii, Europe -3 sues or €10 We have fantastic offers ysa/canadla-3isuesfoe $10 For et seetceit, | Australia isu orAS10 Rest of World -3isvestor £10 Sin your colt form to FREEPOST ANTHEM PUBLISHING (Yes, that simple! No address or stamp required. UK only) ee ce wnesza SauafoS ot sah Utube py Diet DA cnc pant. PA ‘Tora teroansordns esertsop lanai. es Ot ns Dove 203Sa ALS Ss ac wyDISCOVER ITALIA! eee eed et comet eres eadLife on — the Lake Rosatind Ormiston travels toone ol Beare homme 27° STW NVITVLI TLaa Vea Li a Ae A Z = 3 Fat Sy DISCOVER ITALIA! ‘The location of Lake Maggiore has given ‘colourful past, with northern Italy being lose tothe borders of Switzerland, Austria and France. Many people have travelled around itor saled across t, on thelr way ‘oWilan, Venice, and southern Raly Tis surrounded by mountains, which re snow= ‘capped in winter, and tush landscapes encircle the ake Its tamperatectimate attracts visitors allyear round, though the ‘main season is from March toNovember, with winter sports attracting vistors tothe ‘mountains in the colder months. ‘Attheheart of Lake Maggtore are the Borromean Islands, opposite the town of. Stresa. These three eels nits waters, sola Balla, Isola de Pscator, and Isola Madre, aremust-see destinations, rewarding visitors witha memorable experience. And when the sole Borromee have satisfied the appetite of overs of art, architecture, food and botany, a faster ace‘ found around the lake edges, inthe boats for hire, water skiing, ora nevr-to- be-forgotten alpine bobseigh ride onthe sunmitof Mount Mottarone,aboveStresa, reached by cable ca from thelake shore. Lake Maggiore ts the perfect location foravarietyof holidays thatean ‘involve using the water fr boating, fishing and swimming, or relaxing bya pootinone of the shoreline hotels and villa. The verdantcoasttne creates anoasisof beauty to explore bycar orbicyce. The easiest way to vist the townson the lakes by ferry ona hhop-on-hop-off service; tickets can be bought.at the ferry stops, including those for entry toattractions. 24 LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 Re enous STRESA ISA TOWN THAT HAS TO BE HIGH on the lst of any visitto Lake Maggiore, and is popular choice to stay asa central location Icisjust a shore water taxi ride from the spectacular Borromean Islands. The lively town has a variety of hotels wo suie everyone, from cyclists on a stopover to long-stay visitors. The grand hotels along the shore front of Stresa recall the town’s fese heyday as the Ialian riviera ofthe north, Today, a tranquil ambience flows through Seres. The hotels have been renovated, refurbished, and offer noc only superb accommodation but also spectacular views ofthe lake, some with private access pools by its shore. The | Sty Sarat) PaMDBt centre ofthe town is busling with places to shop Siang malice, and ext, and isas popular today asic was when it was visited by Stendhal, Dumas, Dickens, Hemingway Charlie Chaplin and Lord Byron, Panoramicvistas of ake Magaiore are pretalent Irom the shore sidehotelsin ‘THESE FABULOUS ISLANDS ate the highlight of any visit to Lake Maggiore. They area shore journey by private boat rental witha plentiful service of water taxis, or by ferry from Stresa (a it longer from ocher locations) ro Isola Bella, Isola Madre and Isola dei Pescatori The mose visited is Isola Bella with an I8th-ceneury palace its rooms bursting with omate detail, exquisite staeues in Peretem | lalian ceraced gardens, including a seunning ESE rocco, and fabulous blooms, along with che BREIRM brcachcaking amphitheatre, Teatro Massimo. Isola Madre is equally breathtaking, as host to the 16th-ceneury Palazzo Borromeo, and stunning botanical gardens populated with peacocks and Chinese pheasants roaming landscaped gardens of rare plans Tsola dei Pescator, che Fishermen’ Island, isthe only one ‘with permanent inhabitants. The tiny village is home to restaurants offering freshly caught fish, as wel as lite shops and bourique albergos. To get a spectacular bird's eye view of the islands and other parts of Maggiore, there ae heicoprer rides char can rake several routes, and even include a visit to Lake Como.pe 0B dt C ‘TAKE A PICNIC TO VILLA TARANTO, Pallanca, to relaxin the internationally famous botanical gardens, created over 60 years ago by Scotsman Neil McEacharn,a retired captain, On the slopes of Punta Della Castagnolla,a promontory on the lke, McEacharn bought a 40-acre plot of land thache had seen advertised in The Times newspaper “Many childhood holidays spent in Tray led him to make this place on the northern shore of Lake “Maggiore his home. A keen boranist and landscape gardener, he se about planting che extraordinarily beautiful gardens that surround the villatoday with more than 20,000 differene species. On his death in 1952, MeEachamn left his property tothe Ialian State. The garden is open tothe public from March +0 November for us to enjoy che herbarium, Fontana dei Purei and Dahlia garden, which alone has more than 350 varieties. wnviatarant it OPERATING FROM APRIL 0 October, the Lake Maggiore eee a Expressis a combination of lake cruise and expres ail ‘our, journeying from Iraly to Switzerland and back, over one day, or a gentler pace over two, depending on your holiday plans. ‘The journey isa comfortable, scenic tour, The boat leaves from any ferry point on Lake Maggiore. For example, from the Suresa ferry landing seage the lake eruse i a journey of 61km,crss-crossing the lake, stopping at Baveno and Pallanza before crossing to Layeno. The medieval rown of Cannobio is the last stop before sailing into Switzerland, Another stop ac Brissago leadson to Ascona, chosen by authors and artists as a perfect place to sty, then on to Locarno to disembark. The return journey ends at Stress railway station. wwwstresatravelcom/akemaggloreexpress.tmt (QR AT A HEIGHT OF 1,491m, Mount Mottarone, above Suresa, is the most wonderful spot fora 360-degree panoramic view of Lake Maggiore and five other lakes that surround it (Lake Orta, Lake Mergozz0, Lake Monate, Lake Comabbio and Lake Varese, to be exact), and on a clear day you can also catch sight ofthe Italian and Swiss Alps and the plain of the Po. I's year-round destination for nature lovers: don't miss the world- Famous Giardino Boranico Alpinia, che second largest alpine botanical garden in Italy and well worch a visi for sgreen-fingered plant enthusiasts. Hikers and cyclists can enjoy the mountain rails, while at Mottarone’s majestic peak chere isthe Alpyland Alpine Coaster offering an exhilarating ride on a 1.2km of tack in individual bobsleighs around the mountain via a circular route. Suitable forall ages. wwcatpytand.com WHERETOSTAY HOTEL BELVEDERE Vad exo 28838 tesa #4390323 32292 ‘wormelvedere-solapescatori.t One ofthe mostromantichotls in tly, with beautiflly simple décor. Waking up to view: aros the ake, expecialiyearly inthe motrin before the dayvisitors arrive, addsto ts aura Isla Pesatori ‘sanincimat place to stay, with regular ater tons and erties aros the ake LaAPALMA (Corso Unbertof, 33-2688 Stresa 124390323 32401, worhlapatmacit Astuning hte tha’ postoned so perfectiythatit’s easy to get everywhere, whether by car, water-tax fry, bigycle orrental boat, However, ith the anoramicar, pa and swimming pool you probably won't want to go any. REGINA PALACE Corso Umberto 29-2838 Stresa 194390323 926036 worareginapaace.t “This maestichistoric hotel with manicure ake side gardens fers fabulously omateroonsas well asan Incrdiblespa, pool and fnss facies. Therearetwo restaurants, abarand dancing sxrightsa week TEL cANNERO Bazza Umberto, 2 28821 Cannero Rivera 194390323 788046 ‘worm hotalcannero.com Positioned in quit and relaxing part ofthe lake, with a dose ferry stop, ‘thishotl offers elegant interiors with standard oom and sues with breathtaking views across Maar, HOTEL FLORA Va Sempione Nor, 30- 26838 Stresa 194390323 30524 wovhotetorastresa.com Thicomfortable hotel with 2 relaxing ‘autdoor poland terrace as lake views and convenient placed for boat hic, ator avs tothe Bortomean islands, andferies. HOTEL CASA DEL NEVE oe, Mottarone 28888 Stress 19 ¥39 0323923516 ‘wormcasadellaneve.it penal year round, with breathtaking viewson tp of Mount Mottarone hiss the perfet place tostayifyou are shing, 2s thehotesclse to routes in winter or walking in warmer months > LAKES & ISLANDS 202335 LI AHL > ‘= Be = Ss a A(0. a is then you Beeps etna Festival in June, with race clebration THE ITALIAN LAKES fe May THE ROCCA DI ANGERA, belonging to the Borromeo family, isa superbly preserved fortified medieval building buile beeween the 12th and L4th Lake Maggiore, a the southern end. The castle was one of apair with Arona Castle on the opposite bank, a Lombardian defence system to deter invasion by Swiss troops and other adversaries. The fortessalso controlled the shipping and flow of taffc onthe lke for erade. Ie stunning 12th-century frescoes in the Sala dalla Giustiz depicting the life of archbishop Oxtone Visconti. The fortress also boasts a collection of tapestries from all over the world, and the renowned museum of toys and dolls which was founded inthe late 1980s and showeases more than 1,000 dolls dating back tothe 18ch cencury ~ true collector's delight, wwsoleborromee.t/ocea-t-angera/ “Angra Fortress stands ona rocky outcrop overlooking the ake 236 LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 sees Sie ee esteem erg Coreen Perea ae ar the annual Verbania Vela ncerts and delicious food and wine a = ee ee ae = me Lia ee } an Ren aan THELAKEIS AWASH WITH FASCINATING and «quirky museums giving an insight co the history and culture ofeach area surrounding. At the southem end is che slighty surreal but fascinating Gorcard Park, a vehicle enthusias’s dream with planes, motorbikes, cars and boats (www.gottardpark.com). There are also museums dedicated to ceramics, pink granite, hats, pipes, umbrellas and parasols, and a new museum dedicated to perfume. La Casa del Profumo (santamarlamaggtorenfa) in Santa Maria Maggiore, celebrates the invention of Eau de Cologne. Learn more about the invention by local Giovanni Paolo Farina, who emigrated to ‘Germany asa child and subsequently created what was then known, as Agua Mirabilis, or Miracle Water: les medicinal properties were certified by the University of Cologne in the early 1700s and its scent has been enjoyed by many thousands of wearers sinceUNTOUCHED, PROTECTE ‘TREASURES surrounding Lake Maggiore lie in wait, including the Sacro Monte of the Holy Trinity ae Ghiffa, which stands atthe foot of Mount Carriage. Made up cfachurch and three chapels, his serene piece of architecture stands in hundreds of hectares of woodland with footpaths leading to glorious walks. Forth las en years, the National Park of Val Grande has become part of UNESCO's World Network of Geoparks. There ae beautiful reserves tobe discovered, including the Lagoni di “Mercurago springs, which are wonderful 10 explore, whecher you're walkingor biking. You'l come a co across many plant and itfbeucs matters bird species aswell as Neher an archeological roure leading to necropolises dating back to the 6th century BC. Other places o explore include the Dormoletto and Fodotoce reed beds, which extend for kilometres and ace as essential water filters for ish and nesting place for binds such asgrebes, swans and coots. ee FOR FASHION AND FOOD LOVERS ALIKE there’ a busting marker every day of the week. The most famous is Luino, every Wednesday and established since the mid-1500s, Icoffersan abundance of clothing, homeware, sweets, biscuits, salami, fruit and vegetables. ‘Other maskers vo note (they normally start at around 8am and finish a Ip) are Cannobio, and Verbania-Intra, with hundreds of stalls. For those interested in sagre (ood festivals), then mid-summer is che best time of year in Italy. Castlveecana on che Lombardy side of Lake Maggiore hostsa number of food and drink festivals from cheese co beet. For those wanting 10 oll up ther sleeves there are several cooking schools around the lake from chef’ large kitchens in villas to more homely surroundings where you can learn from skilled locals. ar Chae | rae Beene Lean [WHERETO EAT HOTEL RISTORANTE BELVEDERE Vad Noro 28838 Stresa 24390223 32292 ww belvedere-islapescator.it pen mid-March untitNoverber, the hoteton Iola Pescatri alsa ha 3 wonderful restaurant, Bookin advance andafie aunch takes you fom the Strasaquaysid ad back after your mea THESKY BAR (Corso Umberto, 33-2888 Stresa 12439 0323 32401 (On the top oor of Hotel LaPaima yout find delicous oel ingredients. The views alone are worth the vst enjoyadipin {te opear pool, or cockals atthe bat RISTORANTE PIEMONTESE Va Mazzi, 25 ~ 28838 Srsa 21390223 30235 w.istorantepiemontesecom Sotintheheartot store Sresa this ‘nimaterecturant wth internal garden serves fabulous local coures, including sar and gorgonzola Fresh perch with butter and age, plus shes wth Back truffles, and hasa spectacular wine st RISTORANTE MILANO (Corso Zante, 2- 28922 Vrbania 124390323 556816 vwrnistorantemilanolagomaggtorett With ed interior walls, git-tramed alntings and crisp wie tablecloths, this ologant Lakeside restaurant witha pretty terrace and fabulous view offers avast array of Piemontese specialities such arvea ith tuna sauce, LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 37 Ff i SI z 7 i FA rs \ zo aopbbe yy, OoPyne ast)VIEWPOINT | This 16th-century windmills a silent sentry in the tranquil Laguna di Orbetello, anda spectacular sight in an area of breathtaking beauty and tranquillity... This lone windmil in Orbetello Lagoon isan evocative reminder of eartier times, when Spanish military power presided over the territory. Obetello, nthe enchanting countryside of Tuscany’ Maremma National Park, north of Rome, is known as the ‘ity, of Wate’ for god reason. The promontory of Argentaro juts out lke an istand, but is connected tothe mainland by three tendrils of land. On the middle strip sits Orbetello, flanked either sie by lagoons and two further narrow trips. Long recognised asa gateway ‘tothe mainland, and thusof significant, strategic military importance, th island and ts connective promontories came under Spanish ulin the 16th century at which time significant fortifications were built or improved inthe area, including nine windmils. Only this mutinoa vento remains in splendid isolation inthe northern lagoon which s also hhome toa WWF nature reserve winnisittuscany.com/en/attractions/lagoon-of-orbetello/FAST CULTURE The lost ships of Nemi nthe Alban hills, 20 miles south of Rome, the (USES Cr litle own of Nemi sits on acliftop above a small, nearly circular, volcanic lake. The lake is lesschan a square mile in area, Longago, there vwas temple and an oak grove sacred to Diana con the north shore of the lake. Diana, the ewin sister of Apollo, was goddess of the hune, childbirth, and of the ‘moon. In summer, seen from Nemi or the surrounding. hills, che moon was reflected clearly in the water; and so the lake, from ancient times, was called “The Mirror of Diana’, ‘The high priest of Diana grove and temple was the Rex Nemorenss, Kingof the Sacred Grove. His rule was absolute and the penalty for breaking a branch from one ofthe sacred trees was death. But there was an exception: ifan escaped slave brought a sacred branch to the king, he could challenge the king to mortal combat. Ifthe slave won, he became Rex ‘Nemorenss. Orso goes the legend, Diana’ shining ace was nor all chat dvllers in the hill could seein the lake. There were dark and shadowy forms visible below the placid surface ofthe ‘water: the unmistakable images of ewo giane ships. Of course there were atemprs to investigate the _nyserious vesels, bur che depeh at which they lay ~ 60, feet — was too deep for salvage until arly recent times. In 1446 Leon Batista Albert used grappling hooks and secured afew pieces of wood, A man named Elisio Borghi, using hired divers in 1895, retrieved a number of beaueifulivems: case bronze animal heads, a bronze Medusa image, polychrome mosaic floor tiles, and more. However, Borghi’ efforts caused considerable damage o the ships In 1927, Benito Mussolini, with characteristic pognacity, ondered Iealian Naval engineersto drain the Jake. Local lore spoke ofan ancient Roman underground inigaion channel, longunused;f was reopened and powefal hydraulic pamps began to direc lake water ‘through he channel, By sammer of 1931, 40 milion cubic metresof water acl been removed: the ake level had fallen 66 feet, and the frst ship had been recovered. Before che second ship could be reieved, though, thousands of tons of mud erupted from the lake oor. ‘Work sopped and pumping id noc begin again unt ‘March, 1932. The second ship was recovered in October. ‘Now on dry land, the ships began to reveal their secrets, The second ship was largest, 240 feet long, with a beam of 80 feet. Ieseems to have had been outfitted as an elaborate shrine to Diana, The frst » S : 2 sj Es z E ey 2 ora) foes 49 LAKES & ISLANDS 2023mee ai ot Cre eed Peroeercae eroesetarteer Ce ees Parente ts ship, 230 feet long by 66 fect, had been a luxurious floating palace, with saruary, polychrome mosaic floors, decorative marble relief sculptures, and baths with hor and cold running water. Sumpeuous living and dining quarters, inked by stairs and corridors ‘were roofed with gilded tiles “The owner’ idencty was unknown until alead water pipe was discovered, marked ‘property of Gaius Caesar ‘Augustus Germanicus” We know him beter by his childhood nickname ~ “Litele Boots” ~ Caligula In 1935, the Fascist government built a magnificent building of cast concrete to house the ships. The building is sill chere on the shore of Lake Nem ust below the own, But the ships are not. In 1944, both ships were consumed by flame within their concrete hhome, leaving only ashes and afew charred beams. German troops fleeing the American advance may have torched them. The huge concrete building is ‘now a museum. Despite the presence of two one-fifth: scale replicas ofthe ships, bronze itings, documents, statuary ceramics, votive figures from Diana’ sanctuary, and a broken statue of Caligula, the vast structure seems haunted and empey. There isa section of Diana’ old Via Sacta there, as well; where once pethaps, Rex Nemorensis saw his fate approaching, arryingan oak branch. As for Caligula, he was ‘murdered by his own Praetorian Guard soon after the ships were buile. No one knows who seueled ther. Roman Ship Museum, Via Diana, 13-15, 00040, Nemi Noam) ee es ney eee oa Cee etd ee LAKES & ISLANDS 2 > SANVT NVITVLI AHLDISCOVER ITALIA! Pray rons Varese the caer a crt cay Palace, eae Par aero Cs na een ney en re Cr Gastigtione ras a reat oton eae Poglaghis pre rend rt Nd rer car ore! aa ee j h Pe RN : 7x pe 48 HOURS IN. Varese Val Nicastro visits the “Garden City” north of Milan that is, among other things, home to a palace that one Italian poet described as “Little Versailles” ith an enchanting old town, unmatched natural beauy and plenty to explore, Varese and its surroundings are one of Lombardy’ best-kept Sea ae eer ares WHERETO STAY HOTEL DIVARESEO. ViaComo, 12 ora hoteldivarese.com hotest na splendid Liberty style vila ina centeal ection closet the ‘old town and the railway station. The property has a delightful garden, covered parking facies, anda 24-hour ness ‘oom complete witha Farish sauna REPUBBLICADI0Z@ Piazza Giovine ale, 3 ‘= 39 333 859 0055 Asmall, qui BRB inthe historical ‘cent with sixthemed roms filled with allsortsof antiques and memorabilia. Inthe “Opera” room, for example yout finda bebutifu dress worn by Mars Callas hanging onthewal, : : z 5 ART HOTEL VARESE® AS Vil Pade Gn Batt favs. 26 ESN vrnartotetreseit & ‘Alovely four-star hte set informer family mansion dating backto the 18th century, closeto Villa Panza andonly five-minute walk from the historia conte Ttffers complimentary car parking anda refined restaurant. PALACE GRAND HOTEL Via Luciano Manara, 11 vatesetpalazzthatels.com Fist opened in 913, this hotel ocuples grand palace immersed in acenturies- ‘old park Is tacation ontop fa hil ensures lovely views of Lae Varese, ‘uailabeto quests are an outdoor ool wth sunbeds as wells tennis ‘courts relaxing outdoor lounges and arestaurart. HOTEL AL BORDUCAN @ Via Beata Catrina Moria 43 swivaotelalborducan.com An enchanting hott inthe village of Santa Marla del Monte where every etal comes romance, Thereare only ten rooms all wth antique furriture, and the ‘andletghtdinneris pure magi. Their Signature queu, lx Boreuean, has buen around since 1872 cory LAKES & ISLANDS 2028 45= DISCOVER ITALIA! WHERE TO EAT LA POSTERIA @ a Carlo Cattaneo, 3 wrapostertavaresett Tis restaurant’ locaton inside an atmospheric 17th-century court ight Inthe city centres tral enchanting Thay serve inventive dishes made using ‘wetona Ingredients and the wine cellars stoked with exellent bots, eee PIROLA@ a Carlo GuseppoVerati, 10 wor. prolavaresest TnVares, dont the aperitif at Pirla, an stoic afin the centre Tiytheir Apollo 11, acocktail named after the historic moon landing of 1969 re peor ee [BAR PANINOTECA GOLDEN EGG © a Carlo Avegro, 15 wane. facebook.com ~ search Bar Paninoteca Golden Egg" veritable institution n Varese, this ‘san informal eatery close to Corso Mattotienowned for serving the best paninn town, For those witha particularly sweet tooth, there's aso bread a chacoate onthe mena RISTORANTE LUCE @® Poza itta, 1 wan.ristorantelucett ‘Anelegantrestaurat inside ila Panea boasting refined interiors and delightful outdoor ara thatopens onto the splendid gardens. Dishes are prepared with ingredients fom the villas vegetable gardens and orchards PREMIATA GNOCCHERIAERISOTTERIA @ a Carlo Cattaneo, 1 wun. preriatagnoccheriarisotteria.t ‘cosy restaurant in the old wine collar ofan 18h-century monastery nthe pedestrian area. The house specialities arehomenade gnocchi and risotto, texcellentcold meats, chesses and more. 46 LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 The design takes ingpiration from oriental gardens and boasts paths, statues, exotic species and tractive water feacues. Set in the grounds, Museo Castiglioni hosts a fascinating collection from expeditions the Castigioni brothers made in Aftica. Take another another five- minute drive and I arrive at the “Masnago Castle, a comer of ‘medieval beauty immersed in another beautiful park with a hundred different varieties of trees and shrubs. The castle originally served asa foreress and then became a grand mansion, Though the exterior looks unprepossesing, its rooms are filled with beautifal frescoes depictingscenes from court life in the 15th ceneury. The castle houses the Civie Museum (of Modern and Contemporary “Arco Varese, which has works by Hayez, Gutcuso and Pellizza. LAKESIDE CYCLING Forabitof fresh air afterall the sightseeing, I rent abike at Lido DiSchiranna, a popular lakeside destination, and explore the tail around Lake Varese, lovely basin (of glacial origin close to che city centre. The cycling trail is28km in coral but I do juse abit oficto enjoy the tranquillity ofthe place and some fine views. The path is ‘well marked and runs around the entire perimecer ofthe lake, passing through meadows, woods and picturesque villages ‘One of the gems on Lake Varese is Isolino Virginia, an islee where people lived in houses built on sis thousands of yeas ago and which is now part ofthe Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the Alps UNESCO site. You can ‘get there by boat ftom Biandronno, ‘on the other side of the ake. With more time, I would have also > KerTo RESTAURANT PRICES (neal pe peso, retina we) eeoe ee coat Pais province coro: p08 Gulf of Cal Geriglano Fie xia Coote Hols di Capo Rizzo Gath of Risso fe Eakin — . LIPAR OMBOL Vito Gil of alent Vaticani Yelena ) se pe Rosarno ilo Point Vis Cape, ee LaMFEDUSA, Thetsanditsat Tapani fsrtoneotANZO maystinest, fo uk LaSpiggia Marea cot IONIAN SEA sla Cape : sin Marco pe ahesiget Point its Qe SICILY Gait! Ct Vicia Bracco Point Religione LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 59 PoweDISCOVER ITALIA! ‘THROUGH A LENS How to capture this precious city with your camera in ten simple steps. Writer Sara Scarpa and photographer Iain Reid take you on a photography tour of La Serenissima... THEITALIAN ISLANDS Iéncce Paes est oor eons Se L eee ees their way through the crowds in Saint ee ue eee en tenastes Rialto Bridge: or squeeze in fora shot looking mall window on the Bridge of Sighs, And who Screener wn ed s that there are people who can describe its Cre goa eae teas ees Seo ce eee can os everyone will find in Venice whae they have been looking, Tease a VILL neve ec eo SEE Sher rarest eer enon ay pol rontenlos eerie nee aes eee -would ask you to considers to seek out alternatives to Ro ee eee ened day and fresh concepts. Ses cree eee ecm ‘churches and magnificent palaces ic is also the city of minimal details and of the humble ordinariness oF everyday life. Many pees ee Teed RNY See e s Presa an ns yee ascent Cesare SVECG CORA a IFyoulook careflly you will find Peon eta PSone esis have remained untouched for eet See ere Rec tot hn Prvaneen ea ene erent canis te st a Rong Nan een nC cna eon remem cre Seen tenance ene teen ree eee cnn id Reveenee eet names ease tt eae ence na nnn temo mgr ih emai erent aie eter nn cd rs renee tet reenactThe unchanged ever changing city: water and light Many painters havealready elegantly immortalized Venice's beauty and many photographers have captured its lure from different Cor angles. Portraying and describing thecityis an extremely difficult eed task, nt only because you do not want to repeata stereotype but ery also becausethe city changes soquickiyand constantly. Even though Venice has changed very tte through the centuries interms ofits architecture itisalso one ofthe cites whoseaspect ‘varies the most from oneseason to anather, from one day to another, and even during the same day No ather city's socosely inked to water as Venice, and waterisneverstill relentlessly moving, raising for six houts and lowering forthe following sx hours. Thereforethe image ofthe cityis ever changing and ts ‘reflections on water keep fluctuating softis mpossibleto representits mary facets and variations with few shots. Every placelooks different depending onthe light and thet. Like in Monet's paintings, the same motifs appear diferent according to theatmosphericconditions, the changeable qualities of ight and thesense of movement of the water. Photographing Venice through the four seasons Each season reveals someting diferent, Seasonal changesimpact ‘everylocation but in Venice thereis a profound change tothe ‘SPRING -Springisa lovely tineto enjoy the cityasitis stil relatively consciousness ofinhabitants and visitors alike which does shift {quiet and not too hot. The vernissage ofthe Venice Biennale takes thetype ofphotography you undertake. You move rom vibrant, place at thistime, attracting at lovers from allover the wold colourfulscenes to sombre, darkshotsas Venice becomes shrouded The FstadellaSensa (the Ascension Feat) san ancient Venetian ‘nwinter cago (the Venetian fog). tradition celebrating the symbolic marriage of Venice withthe sea; WINTER —In winter the city isuncrowded and populated by Venetians. aaterparade on traditional Venetian boats a rowing competition, The caigo often shrouds everything, giving the city asometimes an interesting market n San Nicol in Lid and other events take ghostly atmosphere. And between Novernber and January the place every year on the ist Sunday after the Ascension Day, Another _acqua alta (high tie) floods many areas of Vice, especialy the ‘wo wonderful rowing competitions occurin the ame period: the Lower areas, such asSt Marks Square, Sometimes sow covers the Palio delle Repubbliche Marinare, which takes place in Venice every rey masegnistones and cloaks the city ina white layer. Butthe four years, andthe Vogalonga ‘major eventfortheseasonistheCarnevaledi Venera, whichturns SUMMER Inthe summer you can witness Venice's sunsets and thecityintoa ving theatreset withthousands ofpeoplein masks, sunrises. What makes them different isthe interaction withthe performances and water parades. (In 2024, the Carnevalewilltake water. Thereflections castand mirored are ike beautiful placefrom 27 January-13 February) wwww.carnevale.veneziait watercolours painted witha palette of warm hues. Onthethird Saturday of July during one of the mostimportant celebrations Winter fog shrouds the city for thecity, the Redentore you can shoottheagoonallitup with fireworks and covered with hundreds af decorated boats. Atthe beginning of September you can see the Regata Storca, the main eventinthe rowing calendar, famous rowing races preceded by ‘the spectacular boat parade. AUTUMN - Autumn isthe perfecttimeforshooting the outdoors in Giardini and Sant‘lena, the two main publicgreen areas in Venice Onthe2istof November every year Venetians celebrate the Feast ofthe Madonna della Salute in memoryofthesahationof Venice from the plague, Tousands of people make thepilarimage across a temporary votive bridgeta te Church ofthe Madonna ella Salute tolightcandleand payhomage othe Madonna whoissaidto have saved thecityinits darkest hout, LAKES & ISLANDS 2023 61