Lycra Damage and

Control guide

Spandex (Lycra fabric) is very sensitive, having high stretch ability (exceptional elasticity). So, there is
a possibility in different processes in sewing and washing, it is breaking. It means the lycra fiber is
broken or damaged. Lycra breakage is a common problem in the garments industry and generally
occurs in the sewing and washing process. So, some carefulness needs for handling lycra fabric and
lycra orders in the garments industry.

Let’s see how to deal lycra fabric and avoid Damages

Pre-production stage
1.SampleDevelopment
The moments, we received the Tech pack for develop the sample, we must do a Risk Analysis meting
and draw a strategy plan for entire process to handle HRS style for the entire production & QA team.
Use the standard needle and wash recipe during develop the sample. And mention on the HRS if there
any difficulties faced during develop the sample.

2. Fabric and store

While received the fabric do the required shrinkage and shade band as the bulk wash recipe. On these
processes, please Check that receiving fabric having no lycra damage (after washed). After that keep
the fabric rolls in one direction to avoid extra stress due to weight. Pallet length must be more than
the roll length or at least equal to roll length. Keep maximum 150 yards on the relaxing rack after
relaxation.

3.Needle and Gouges

Booked the special needle which will use for Lycra Fabric. Here We prefer, ball point sewing needles
is advised to avoid Lycra deformation during sewing time where Operator should check the needle
periodically (by finger nail or nylon women socks) and Needle should be replaced with a new one
periodically. Using gold in color needles is advised to avoid Lycra deformation. Titanium Nitride coated
-gold in color- needles is advised as these needles with stand high temperatures and heat from
friction.
If the teeth of feed dog have the presence of sharp edge, it pulls the yarn out of fabric, it will cause
Lycra deformation. High density stitch like bar tack as also responsible of unexpected stretch. If
there’s the presence of sharp or pointy edge at feed plate, it pulls the yarn out of fabric surface

Production stage

1.In cutting section:

The day before cutting, do an internal meeting about the HRS and how to handle Lycra Fabric. Besides cutting
manager and responsible QA team will ensure the fabric kept on the relaxation which already inspected done.
Also need be ensure that there is no sharp-edged on the cutting table and the use sharp blade for cutting.
Use spreader machine with minimum pulling during spreading. Keep fabric layer for minimum 90
minutes after spreading. Use most appropriate cutting blade brand “KM Strong H” to cut Lycra fabric.

2.In sewing section:

The moments of input will start, this is QA team responsibility to do an internal meeting to get them
all to clear understanding about how to handle the Lycra fabric while stc and detail of the needle,
gauges and machine setup. Make sure correct needle and change as per fixed frequency. However,
gold needles are recommended for all operations related to Lycra issue. Use light presser feet, good
quality feed-dog as possible. Also use plastic presser feet and Teflon tape. All machine beds and other
work stations should be free of sharpness. If use high density of SPI in bar tack. In that cause of bar
tacking area can occurring yarn cut and yarn pulling due to additional needle stamping in a same are

3.In washing section

QA and production team must ensure that after sewing out garment are kept in straight mode and
send to wash each bundle with minimum stretch. Do an internal meeting with washing team and tell
them to get inform if there is after wash lycra damage. During meeting with washing team must share
the concerns: Maintain the washing machine RPM less than 30 and temperature should be less than
45 degree. Dryer below temperature must 60 degree centigrade. Don’t over load and maintain cool
temperature during the wash process and drying. For different authentic wash effect like whisker,
hand scraping, please use rubber pattern. Sand paper, If the sand paper size is not suitable with fabric,
it creates Lycra deformation as well. Allocate one delegate QA in the washing plant for review these.

4.In Finishing Section:

The day received the garment from the wash do a postmortem report prior to start Iron and finishing.
Based on the finding do necessary action into sewing section. Besides keep the KILL Garment report.