Key Trends

Key Trend 2022: Sun Care

& Tanning
Consumers are looking for multifunctional protection as
their lives increasingly shi outdoors. Formulas that
protect and adapt to different climates will be in demand

the WGSN Beauty Team

04.21.21 · 9 minutes

LifeJacket
Overview
With more people spending time outdoors in nature, sun care products that
provide protection against UV, pollution and different climates will increase in
demand. With safety and sustainability key priorities, consumers will
increasingly seek formulas that are good for their health and for the planet.

With fewer consumers going on holiday or spending time outside due to the Covid- 19
pandemic, sun care has taken a hit over the last 12 months. In the US, sales
declined by nearly 20% by the end of March 2020 due to an increase in people
working from home (in the Asia-Pacific region demand has remained the same).
However, growing awareness of skin cancer and skin ageing caused by UV rays
sees Mordor Intelligence predict the global sun care market to witness the fastest
growth within the personal care industry, particularly across the US and Europe.
According to Fortune Business Insights, the global sun care products market is
projected to reach $16.84bn by 2027, with a CAGR of 3.5% during this period.
This increase is having a knock-on effect, with a growing demand for self-tanning
products. IBISWorld reveals the Australian self-tanning industry has experienced
15.3% YoY growth, predicted to continue over the next five years. This goes hand in
hand with innovative new approaches to formulas, colour and application methods as
consumers are finding them easier to apply and wear, without the drastic colour
change.
And with this rising demand, consumers will expect the same level of results-driven,
multipurpose formulas from their SPF and self-tanning products as they do from
Amanda Harrington
their skincare.

“With a growing number of people suffering from sensitive skin

issues coupled with a rising demand for clean beauty trends,
consumers are expecting more from their sunscreen than ever
before. This means clean formulas, antipollution, anti-blue light
and pigmentation reduction, as well as anti-blemish bene ts.”

Bruce Green, a chartered scientist, chemist and founder of SOS Skincare

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Sun care as skincare
Facial sun care is highly prized in terms of anti-ageing, as more people realise UVA
exposure is likely the biggest cause of wrinkles and pigmentation. A growing
number of consumers are considering sunscreen as an essential step in their
daily skincare regime, not just for holidays and hot weather.

According to the 2020 RealSelf Sun Safety Report, preventing the appearance of ageing
skin was the second-highest motivation among sunscreen wearers, a er skin cancer.
“Sun care products need to branch out beyond simple UV protection and offer
multifunctionality whether this be antipollution, anti-pigmentation or a product that
can offer UV protection with premium skincare actives," explains Abi Cleeve, UK MD of
UltraSun. Ultrasunʼs options include known results-based skincare actives including
hexylresorcinol, ecotin, GSP-T and caffeine herbasome (to stimulate hair growth) in its
scalp protector. La Roche-Posay's new Anthelios Age Correct SPF 50 contains PHE-
resorcinol and LHA to target sun-induced hyperpigmentation.
How to action this : look to South Korea for innovations. Speaking to US Marie Claire,
Alicia Yoon, founder of K-beauty e-tailer Peach & Lily said: “Korea is always pushing the
boundaries on [sunscreen] texture innovations and formula stability, as the market is
hyper-competitive and demanding.” She stocks K-beauty brand Rootreeʼs Mobitherapy
UV Sun Shield, which contains an indigenous extract known for its ability to hydrate and
soothe sun-irritated skin. California-based Jaxon Laneʼs Rain or Shine Moisturizing
Sunscreen SPF 50+ boasts similar benefits, with green tea, liquorice root and ginseng,
while Dr Oracle's 21;STAY A-Thera Sunblock SPF 50 targets acne-prone skin.

Jaxon Lane

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Innovative sunscreen formats
A new wave of sophisticated sun care formats that deliver protection, hydration
and skin-caring active ingredients are coming to the fore, catering to consumers'
new post-pandemic beauty needs.

Many sunscreens are now coming in moisturiser and serum formats, such as Ultra
Violette (Australia), SOS (UK) and Ecooking (Denmark), making application a natural
part of the consumerʼs skincare routine. Another option is SPF solid stick formulations,
as offered by Tropic Skincare (UK), Clarins (France) and ACH (South Korea), which are
easily portable and provide non-messy application.
New formats make sunscreen easier and more desirable than before. “Ultrasun looks
for reasons why someone may be reluctant to regularly use sunscreen, which range
from greasy residue to an ashy finish on darker skin tones,” notes Cleeve.
“Encouragement and removing these obstacles through a choice of formulas is our
focus... We offer clear gels and sprays, tinted full-face formats, pigmentation-targeting
options and products with a light-reflecting ʻglimmerʼ finish.”
How to action this : ʻsun milksʼ are already widely used in Asia, due to their lightweight,
non-greasy consistency, and could prove popular in other markets. K-beauty brand
Misshaʼs All Around Safe Block Waterproof Sun Milk boasts an ultra-light consistency,
is waterproof and can be worn under make-up. It doesnʼt leave a white cast on darker
skin tones either. K-beauty brand Papa Recipe's Bombee Honey Moist Sun Essence
SPF 50+ has a similar texture and glides easily on the skin, and contains hydrating honey
and royal jelly extracts.

Papa Recipe

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The end of the spray tan
While traditional spray tans in the salon have been a popular application method,
they haven’t been that accessible over the last 12 months due to lockdown,
leading consumers to explore DIY tanning methods at home.

Amanda Harrington's eponymous London-based brand is offering an alternative

solution. Its founder observed how a spray gun and mitt application resulted in what
she saw as a one-dimensional, flat colour. “I would rather we saw fewer tanning sprays
because of the toxicity,” she adds. “They are unsafe for pregnancy and usually sit in
alcohol, which isnʼt good to ingest.”
Her brush applicator method allows users to create a less flat and more natural-
looking tan, especially on the face, where you can apply it like a contour product in lieu
of make-up. “We are seeing more and more people foregoing make-up and using light-
level DHA products as their base, and then adding lighter layers of make-up over the
top,” she remarks.
How to action this : for people that want a quick and convenient application method,
another new format is tanning water, offering a lightweight formulation that doesnʼt
feel heavy on the skin or clog pores. Isle of Paradiseʼs Tanning Water recently went
viral on TikTok, with one video receiving almost 1m views. This showed a user using the
brand's Tanning Water refill (using 81% less plastic) and a reusable misting bottle. The
water contains coconut and avocado oils to condition the skin, while a special colour-
correcting complex is designed to ensure a more natural, even-looking tan.

Isle of Paradise

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Sunscreen for men
More sun care brands are starting to make men’s products and marketing
towards men a key focus. With skin cancer among men on the rise, brands must
increase education around the importance of applying daily sunscreen to
potentially protect the skin against UV rays.

Only about 14% of men in the US use sunscreen on their face and exposed areas of
skin, while in the UK, YouGov research found that 31% of men donʼt apply sunscreen on
holiday, compared to 15% of women.
Cancer Research UK recently reported that a new link has been found between high
levels of (male hormone) testosterone and increased risk of skin cancer. This is
something that brands such as UK-based LifeJacket Skin Protection have made it their
mission to highlight and help prevent. “We are quite focused on the male market
because there is a lack of understanding from men concerning the importance of
sunscreen in their daily lives,” explains co-founder Rob Sumner. “This is reflected in
the fact that almost twice as many men die from skin cancer versus women in the UK,
Australasia, North America and much of Europe. Male skin cancer cases have exploded
over the past 20 years and incidence rates are forecast to double over the next 20
years.”
How to action this : create products marketed for face and scalp. UltraSunʼs Scalp
Protector contains encapsulated growth-promoting caffeine herbasome. “This focuses
on removing reluctance to protect a vulnerable area, the scalp – the site of 23% of skin
cancer cases in men and 14% in women,” notes Cleeve. US brand Mantl's non-greasy
Face and Scalp Invisible Daily SPF 30 is designed for the scalp.
LifeJacket

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Safe and sustainable ingredients
With consumers putting greater attention onto products that feel safe and
sustainable, brands must develop new sun care formulas that protect the skin
and are also better for the planet.

An estimated 14,000 tonnes of sunscreen are washed up into coral reefs each year.
Many consumers are avoiding sunscreens containing chemical filters such as
oxybenzone and octinoxate, which can harm aquatic life.
In 2020, the FDA reported that six chemical sunscreen actives (avobenzone,
oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate and octinoxate) can enter the
bloodstream even a er a single application and can remain in the body for extended
periods of time.
Brands are striving to ensure their formulations not only meet but also surpass reef-
safe standards, with additional accreditation from environmental associations such as
the BASF EcoSun Pass. London-based brand Aethic ensures every individual ingredient,
not just the final formulation, is scientifically tested on coral to ensure itʼs reef-safe.
How to action this : research natural and organic alternatives to chemical filters. Bruce
Green of UK brand SOS Serum, which uses grape seed oil extract as an SPF, said: “The
European market for natural oil as a sun protection product is expected to double in
growth during 2020-2030, owing to how easy it is to apply.” Instead of using zinc oxide
and titanium oxide, Aethic uses a naturally occurring compound found in seaweed,
proven by Kingʼs College London to absorb UVA and UVB rays effectively.

SOS Serum

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The new generation of facial tanners
Facial tanning formulations are becoming more convenient and less daunting to
apply. Instead of lotions or creams, many now come as drops, designed to add a
gradual colour when mixed in with moisturiser, so users can blend and build
according to their preference.

Early adopters include Coco & Eve with its recently launched Bronzing Face Drops, as
well as Drunk Elephant whose D-Bronzi Antipollution Drops are designed to create a
glow as well as shield skin against pollution particles. The menʼs tanning market can
also benefit from the drops format, with products such as Clarins Men Tanning
Booster allowing those new to self-tanning to gradually build up to their desired
shade, without a drastic and unwelcome colour change.
How to action this : incorporate tanning formulas into everyday skincare products such
as face creams and serums. Facial tanning formulas are becoming as beneficial for the
skin as regular skincare.
James Readʼs new Facial Tan Serum includes encapsulated vitamin C and hyaluronic
acid, allowing consumers to weave self-tanning into their regular skincare regime
without applying it as an extra step. “Customers want products that do everything –
why have two or three products when you can have one that does the job for all three?”
he explains. “My goal was to launch a brand that supplies skincare-infused self-tan.”
However, this doesnʼt come without its challenges, as Read illustrates. “With [tanning
agent] DHA you have to make sure the formulation is balanced so the DHA is stable,
which means you have to play around with percentages, which can take up to two years
to get right.”
Coco & Eve

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1 234
Action points
Explore sunblock with additional
skincare bene ts
Focus on formulas that address a
number of skincare concerns as
opposed to just blocking UV rays, so
the consumer can use them in place of
their regular skincare products. Scalp
SPFs can even include follicle-boosting
ingredients as an additional incentive to
use them
Ensure SPF products are
designed for portability to
increase use
Look into formats such as sprays, gels
and sticks which can be carried around
and applied easily to areas like the
scalp. Touch-free spray-on and stick
applications will also appeal to
hygiene-focused consumers
Research ingredients that go
beyond reef-safe
Focus on natural oils and organic filters,
and seek additional certification beyond
the minimum environmental
requirements. Ensure that even
physical (reef-safe) filters arenʼt
potentially harmful to marine life
Create bespoke tanning
solutions with innovative
application methods
Focus on new methods of self-tan, such
as brushes, water sprays or blendable
drops, which allow for easier, streak-
free application and more control over
the type and level of tan desired