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Received: 2 September 2020 | Revised: 13 April 2021 | Accepted: 20 April 2021

DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14198

ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTION

Evaluation of skin care concerns and patient’s perception of the


effect of NanoSilk Cream on facial skin

Amanda E. Louiselle MD1 | Stephen Niemiec MD1 | Mark Azeltine MS1 |


Leela Mundra MD1 | Brooke French MD1,2 | Carlos Zgheib PhD1 | Kenneth W. Liechty MD1,2

1
University of Colorado Denver School of
Medicine, Aurora, CO, USA Abstract
Background: Skin aging is an inevitable process with one of the key features of aging
2
Children's Hospital Colorado, Aurora,
CO, USA
being dryness or flakiness of the skin. Previous in vivo and in vitro testing has high-
Correspondence lighted that a silk-­based product may be effective in improving moisture retention in
Amanda E. Louiselle, 1775 Aurora Ct,
Aurora, CO 80045, USA.
skin.
Email: amanda.louiselle@cuanschutz.edu Methods: We evaluated the safety and efficacy of our silk-­based product through a
combination of objective-­including scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and EpiDerm
Skin Irritation tests -­and subjective tests –­including direct evaluation of patient’s
own perception of their skin.
Results: In alignment with previous studies, patients reported significant concerns
about aging, wrinkling, or saggy skin. We found that our silk-­based product was safe
and effective in improving hydration and resilience of facial skin and a majority of par-
ticipants stated they would continue to use this product, when commercially available.
Conclusion: Our novel silk-­based product, NanoSilk Cosmo, is safe for use on human
facial skin and it improves skin resiliency and hydration.

KEYWORDS
Aging skin, NanoSilk Cosmo, silk, skin resilience

1 | I NTRO D U C TI O N protein polymer that is approved for medical use by the U.S.
Food and Drug Administration, and Bombyx mori (B. mori) silk
Skin aging is characterized by atrophy, decreased elasticity, wrinkling, is considered a non-­
a nimal product (EU Council Directive
impaired strength, and altered metabolic and reparative responses. 93/42/EEC, rule 17). Importantly, it is biocompatible, non-­
The etiology of these changes is multifactorial and includes intrinsic c ytotoxic. 5 There are two important
inflammatory, and non-­
factors such as age, genetics, metabolism, and nutrition, as well as ex- components of silk that are derived from the B. mori worm, both
trinsic or environmental effects like Ultraviolet (UV) radiation and air of which are proteins—­f ibroin and sericin. 6 In simple terms, seri-
1
pollution. It has been noted that there is increased fragility of the skin cin, which represents about 30% of the entire cocoon, functions
with age due to flattening of the dermo-­epidermal junction and de- as a glue to hold the fibroin fibers together while blocking UV
2
creased biosynthetic capacity of fibroblasts, all leading to decreased rays and providing moisture.7,8 The fibroin, approximately 70%
2,3
skin resilience and an undesirable cosmetic appearance of the skin. of the cocoon, is composed of two proteins which interestingly
It has previously been shown that “young and beautiful appearance” have similar amino acid compositions to Natural Moisturizing
can have a positive effect on people's social behaviors, and aging skin Factor which is found in the stratum corneum of human skin
can not only hinder an individual's perceived social behavior but is and helps retain moisture in the skin.9 The stratum corneum is
4
also more prone to a build-­up of microorganisms and water loss. of key importance to the skin's ability to hold water and main-
Recently, the use of silk to reverse or repair some of these tain skin integrity which is critical for maintaining a youthful
aging processes has gained significant interest. Silk is a natural appearance. 2,3,10

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;00:1–11. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jocd© 2021 Wiley Periodicals LLC | 1


2 | LOUISELLE et al.

Besides the moisture retention effects noted above, one of the SEM. Human skin samples from diabetic patients were sectioned
theories behind the effectiveness of silk on the skin is that the silk fi- with an eight mm biopsy punch. Excess hair was removed with a
broin nanofibers are able to promote cell adhesion and allows type I razor blade, and the skin samples were cleaned with an alcohol
collagen to spread within epidermal keratinocytes and fibroblasts.11 pad. 8% nanosilk fibroin solution in water was misted onto the
New data suggest that if a patient has a higher ratio of collagen type samples and allowed to dry for 1 h before being sputter coated
I to collagen type III that these patients will have better outcomes and imaged by SEM.
after aesthetic facial surgery, which highlights the key role of colla-
gen in the skin.12
Although there have been a few studies examining the role of silk 2.3 | Skin irritation assay
in skin care, these have been either in vivo or in vitro studies, and there
has not been a study to date evaluating the consumer's perception of The EpiDerm Skin Irritation Test (EpiDerm SIT) was developed and
their skin before and after using a silk-­based product. A consumer's validated for in vitro skin irritation testing of chemicals, including
perception of the effectiveness of a product is important for vali- cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients. The EpiDerm SIT uti-
dating or refuting evidence detected in vivo or in vitro. Additionally, lizes the 3D in vitro reconstructed human epidermal (RHE) model
of growing importance to consumers, both in the United States and EpiDerm. The procedure allows for discrimination between irritants
internationally, is the importance of animal welfare, including avoid- of The Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling
ance of animal testing and the use of organic, natural, or non-­animal of Chemicals (GHS) and non-­irritants. The test is performed over the
13
products in beauty products. Therefore, it is important that any course of a 4 day time period, consisting of pre-­incubation, 60 min
newly developed cosmetic product adhere to the strict animal wel- exposure, 42 h post-­incubation, and MTT (3-­(4,5-­Dimethylthiazol-­
fare regulations set forth by the United States and European Union. 2-­yl)-­2,5-­diphenyltetrazolium bromide) viability assay. After tissue
The primary outcome of this study is to evaluate the safety of receipt and overnight pre-­incubation (Day 0), tissues were topically
NanoSilk Cosmo [silk-­based product] on the skin. The secondary exposed to the test chemicals (Day 1) (DPBS (Dulbecco's phosphate-­
outcome is to evaluate the efficacy, via subjective participant sur- buffered saline) = Negative control, 5% Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate
veys, of NanoSilk Cosmo on facial skin. This first study will allow us (SDS) = Positive control, NanoSilk Cosmo and 7% nanosilk solution).
to ensure that subjective viewpoints are thoughtfully analyzed and Three tissues were used for each test chemical (NanoSilk Cosmo and
will help us determine whether further testing of NanoSilk Cosmo 7% nanosilk solution), as well as for the positive control (5% aque-
is warranted. ous SDS solution), and a negative control (DPBS). Chemical exposure
lasts for 60 min, 35 of which the tissues were kept in an incubator
at 37°C. The test substances were then removed from the tissue
2 | M E TH O D S surface by an extensive washing procedure. The tissue inserts were
blotted and transferred to fresh medium. After a 24 h incubation
2.1 | Extraction and production of silk fibroin period (Day 2), the medium was exchanged. After the medium ex-
nanostructure change, tissues were incubated for an additional 18 h. At the end of
the entire 42 h post-­incubation (Day 3), the tissues were transferred
The nanosilk fibroin extraction protocol was developed in our labora- into a yellow MTT solution and incubated for 3 h. The resultant
tory and then shared with Mineralife Nutraceuticals, LLC (Colorado purple-­blue formazan salt, formed mainly by mitochondrial metabo-
Springs) for bulk production and quality analysis and was tested for a lism, was extracted for 2 h using isopropanol. The optical density of
broad range of bacteria and fungi. Briefly, silk cocoons were obtained the extracted formazan was determined using a spectrophotometer.
from Mulberry Farms (Fallbrook). Sodium carbonate and lithium bro- A chemical is classified as an irritant if the tissue viability relative to
mide (Sigma-­Aldrich) were used as an extraction and digestion rea- the negative control-­treated tissues is reduced below 50%.
gent, respectively. The extracted and purified silk fibroin nanofibers
were then purified via dialysis method and then combined with the
following—­purified water, pluronic gel, LipMaxTM, potassium sorb- 2.4 | Survey details
ate, and lavender essential oil to produce the final NanoSilk Cosmo
cream. This was packaged into 10 or 30 mL jars. Importantly, the This was a consumer perception study utilizing two surveys, one
NanoSilk Cosmo cream was never tested on animal specimens. prior to the use of NanoSilk Cosmo and a follow-­up survey after
use. A descriptive survey research design was created to investi-
gate and assess consumer skin care concerns as well as basic demo-
2.2 | Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) of graphic information (Appendix A). A second survey was developed
human skin treated with nanosilk solution to assess consumer's perception of the use of NanoSilk Cosmo on
their skin as well as information about how and when they used the
The surface topography of untreated human skin and skin treated product (Appendix B). The study design and surveys were approved
with nanosilk fibroin dissolved in sterile water was obtained by by our University's International Review Board (COMIRB approval
LOUISELLE et al. | 3

19–­1700). The surveys were completed by the participant, via any (<100 colony forming units/gram (cfu/g)), mold (<100 cfu/g), E.coli
device with access to the internet with the use of online surveys via (<10 cfu/g), and absent Salmonella (Absent).
Qualtrics (Provo, UT; Seattle, WA).

3.2 | NanoSilk fibers solution forms a protective


2.5 | Population and sample film on the skin

The target population was both men and women, of any race or eth- We examined the appearance of skin before and after applying the
nicity, with a minimum age of 18 years who were not pregnant nor nanosilk solution using SEM analysis. Qualitative assessment of the
were decisionally challenged. The survey was administered to 100 effect of nanosilk fibers on the appearance of skin at the microscopic
participants from October 2019 through June 2020 that were re- level demonstrates a dramatic improvement after topical application
cruited through local engagement at medical offices and hospitals in of the nanosilk fibers. Without nanosilk treatment, the skin is ex-
the Denver metro area. The instructions were for the participants to posed and appears dry and scaly. However, after a single application,
fill out the pre-­survey, use the product for up to four weeks, and then the skin surface appears to be much smoother due to the nanosilk
complete the post-­survey. None of the data from either survey used forming a protective, hydrating barrier (Figure 1).
identifiable markers other than the same randomly generated partic-
ipation code so we could link the pre-­survey and post-­survey results.
3.3 | NanoSilk Cosmo cream does not cause
skin irritation
3 | R E S U LT S
According to the manufacturer of the EpiDerm Skin Irritation test,
3.1 | Quality testing of Nanosilk Cosmo a chemical is classified as an irritant if the tissue viability relative to
the negative control-­treated tissues is reduced below 50%. The test
Testing of the NanoSilk Cosmo product by an outside third party showed that neither the NanoSilk Cosmo cream nor the NanoSilk
was found to have negligible amounts of lead, mercury, cadmium, solution caused any skin irritation (Figure 2). These data support the
and arsenic (NMT 1 ppm) in addition to negligible amounts of yeast fact that throughout the course of the survey study, there were no

F I G U R E 1 SEM images of treated


versus untreated human skin at 150x,
500x, and 1500x magnification. There
is decreased skin flaking in the nanosilk
group as compared to the No Treatment
group
4 | LOUISELLE et al.

complaints or concerns from participants about significant irritation, 3.5 | Post-­NanoSilk cosmo cream use survey
redness, or obvious outward damage to the skin.
There were 50 responses for the NanoSilk Cosmo Completion
Survey (Appendix B) with a total survey response of 51.5% (50 post-­
3.4 | Pre-­NanoSilk Cosmo cream use survey use responses and 97 pre-­use responses), all of which were used
in the analysis. Most participants used the NanoSilk Cosmo cream
There were 97 responses for the NanoSilk Cosmo Initial Survey seven days per week for up to 4 weeks. NanoSilk Cosmo cream was
(Appendix A), all of which were included in our initial analysis. Of used equally in either the morning time or nighttime, and less fre-
those, 99% identified as female and 1% identified as male. The quently used at both time points.
majority of participants were aged 30–­59; however, the entire age Most participants rated the quality and fragrance of the prod-
range was 21–­79 years of age. uct as “excellent” (Figure 6). With regard to effectiveness, a majority
Participants were asked to rank a set of nine skin care concerns of the participants reported that they found “excellent” benefit in
prior to using NanoSilk Cosmo (1 being the most concerning, and 9 the following skin care concerns: overall skin appearance, hydration,
being the least concerning) (Figure 3). The topmost skin care con- smoothness, and skin firmness. There were no effects that were
cerns were the appearance, development, or persistence of wrinkles ranked as “poor” other than product texture and ease of application,
(Average rank = 2.42). In addition, sagging, acne, and pigmentation/ and this was a very small minority of participants. Nearly 80% of
dark spots were also significant concerns (Average ranks = 4.25, participants said they would use NanoSilk Cosmo if it became com-
4.47, and 4.56, respectively). mercially available.
When it comes to skin care products, participants reported that
active ingredients were their number one concern when purchas-
ing a product, followed closely by price, expert opinion and word 4 | CO N C LU S I O N
of mouth, recommendations, and/or product reviews (Figure 4).
Interestingly, there was seemingly less concern about animal testing Skin aging is an inevitable process and can affect the self-­confidence
in our group of participants. of both women and men and interfere with their social interac-
In addition, a majority of participants stated that they used tions.14 There is encouraging promise for the use of silk fibroin for
cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen seven days per week, whereas a skin rejuvenation rooted in both in vivo and in vitro studies.15 We
majority of participants said they never use toner, masks, lightening offer the first known study to date that examines consumer percep-
agents, or retinoid agents (Figure 5). tion on how NanoSilk Cosmo, a silk fibroin-­based product, affects
skin appearance. NanoSilk Cosmo holds the potential to be the first
silk-­based product available to consumers for cosmetic use that may
improve patients’ perception of their skin.
One mechanism by which NanoSilk Cosmo cream may improve
skin appearance and reduce skin aging is through improved skin hy-
dration. Our ex vivo work with SEM analysis showed improvement
in skin barrier and less dermal flaking consistent with improved
skin resilience and increased moisture retention by creating a semi-­
permeable protective film on the skin (Figure 1). Additionally, topical
application of NanoSilk Cosmo cream did not cause any skin irrita-
tion, supported by the data from the EpiDerm Skin Irritation test
(Figure 2) and through survey participants denying any significant
adverse effects or severe allergic reactions to the NanoSilk Cosmo
product. Based on these results, combined with the objective quality
testing, we determined that the NanoSilk Cosmo is a safe product.
As highlighted by our pre-­survey results, our participants stated
that key features of aging skin were their topmost concern—­wrinkles,
pigmentation/dark spots, dryness, sagging, and decreased texture
were consistently listed as the most worrisome feature of their skin.
This makes sense given that a majority of our participants were aged
30–­59, a time when the skin begins to show signs of aging. Less of a
F I G U R E 2 Skin Sensitivity Assay—­EpiDerm Skin Irritation test
concern was acne, oiliness, and scarring, which is more frequently a
(EpiDerm SIT). A chemical is classified as an irritant if the tissue
viability relative to the negative control-­treated tissues is reduced concern during younger years, usually teenage years to late 20 s. The
below 50%. Each group was analyzed in triplicate. Bars represent participants in our group also noted that active ingredients were a
the mean, and standard deviation error bars are displayed key factor in deciding whether a product was worth using.
LOUISELLE et al. | 5

F I G U R E 3 Average Rank of Skin Concerns. Participants were asked to report their specific skin concerns with 1 being the most important
and 9 being the least important

F I G U R E 4 Relative importance of
skin care product features. The two most
important factors are active ingredients
and expert opinion

The effect that participants noticed after using NanoSilk Cosmo decreased skin flaking and improved moisture. This also matches up
on a regular basis, resulted in a majority of our participants finding with data previously published that silk fibroin and sericin have many
NanoSilk Cosmo to have a “good” or “excellent” effect on the fol- properties that mirror skin's natural ability to restore hydration and
lowing skin concern areas—­effect on overall skin appearance, wrin- prevent damage.7-­9 Additionally, several comments from participants
kles, hydration, smoothness, skin texture, and skin firmness. These stated that others noticed their wrinkles had lessened in addition to
findings align with what we found with our SEM data that showed noticing changes themselves.
6 | LOUISELLE et al.

F I G U R E 5 Rose plot depicting relative


usage of common skin care products
among survey participants

Of note, post-­survey response was 50 participants compared with opinion of a product. Several studies have looked at specific regions
initial survey participation of 97, which is a limitation of this study. This in the United States and internationally to try and determine what
was likely for several reasons—­first, given that the researchers wanted is important in skin care and cosmetics to the consumers. In 2018,
to preserve the anonymity of the participants, so as to encourage hon- the global skin care market was valued at $135 billion U.S. dollars
18
est answers, we were unable to reach out to them to take the post-­ and consumer perception plays a key role in the success of a skin
survey. Previous studies have documented that up to three attempts care product. Additionally, it has been reported that consumers are
to make contact with participants, yields improved response rates.16 seeking out more natural or organic ingredients in their skin care
Second, there was no incentive to complete the post-­survey, unlike products and this is reflected in the increasing relative percentage
the initial survey where upon completion they received the NanoSilk of skin care products purchased that are considered natural or or-
Cosmo product. It has been published several times in the literature ganic.18 Our study also found that several participants highly valued
that providing incentives (monetary or otherwise) can increase survey natural ingredients, whereas less important was the use of animal
response rates compared with non-­incentivized surveys, like our post-­ testing. Again, we only tested the product on human skin, and never
survey.17 In the future, we may consider incentivizing both surveys to on animals.
increase our post-­use response rate. NanoSilk Cosmo moisturizing cream is a novel product that we
Another limitation of the study is that we are only using sub- have tested and have shown it to be safe for use on human facial
jective measurements to evaluate the efficacy of NanoSilk Cosmo. skin. We have shown that aging skin is a significant concern for the
However, it is important to give significant weight to consumer participants of our study, including wrinkles, sagging, and dryness
LOUISELLE et al. | 7

F I G U R E 6 Ratings of Different Qualities of NanoSilk Cosmo

and that most users of NanoSilk Cosmo report an improvement in E T H I C A L S TAT E M E N T


these categories. NanoSilk Cosmo offers a safe and effective skin This is an original manuscript that has neither been published
care cream to help improve skin resiliency and improve hydration. nor is currently being considered for publication by another
In the future, we plan to expand our work and perform a prospec- journal. All authors have read and support the content of this
tive randomized clinical trial to quantitatively assess the effects of manuscript.
NanoSilk Cosmo solution on the hydration status of the skin, visco-
elasticity, stiffness of the skin, and skin surface topography using ORCID
medical-­grade, non-­invasive devices. Amanda E. Louiselle https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3997-3144

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2. Khavkin J, Ellis DA. Aging skin: histology, physiology, and pathol-
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3. Constantin MM, Poenaru E, Poenaru C, Constantin T. Skin hy-
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4. Zhang S, Duan E. Fighting against skin aging. Cell Transplant.
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Regenerative Medicine (pp 3-­4 0). Woodhead Publishing.
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LOUISELLE et al. | 9

APPENDIX A

W H AT I S YO U R AG E ?
o 18-­20

o 21-­29

o 30-­39

o 40-­49

o 50-­59

o 60-­69

o 70-­79

o >80

I | identify as:
o Male

o Female

o Transgender Male

o Transgender Female

o Other

D O YO U FO L LOW A S K I N C A R E R O U T I N E ? I F Y E S , W H I C H O F T H E FO L LOW I N G P R O D U C T S D O YO U U S E A N D
H OW O F T E N D O YO U U S E T H I S P R O D U C T ?

No—­I do
Yes—­1 day Yes—­2 days Yes—­3 days Yes—­4 days Yes—­5 days Yes—­6 days Yes—­7 days not use this
per week per week per week per week per week per week per week product

Cleanser o o o o o o o o
Exfoliator (BHA: Salicylic o o o o o o o o
Acid or AHA: Glycolic/
Lactic Acid)
Toner o o o o o o o o
Moisturizer o o o o o o o o
Sunscreen o o o o o o o o
Night Cream o o o o o o o o
Serum o o o o o o o o
Mask o o o o o o o o
Lightening Agents o o o o o o o o
(Hydroquinone,
Vitamin C, Azelaic
Acid, Niacinamide,
etc.)
Retinoid Agents (retinol, o o o o o o o o
tretinoin, etc.)
10 | LOUISELLE et al.

W H E R E D O YO U T Y P I C A L LY P U R C H A S E YO U R S K I N C A R E P R O D U C T S ?
o Medical Spa/Aesthetician

o Dermatologist/Plastic Surgeon

o Retail Store (ie, Target, Sephora, Nordstrom)

o Online

I N O R D E R O F I M P O R TA N C E , W H I C H O F T H E FO L LOW I N G I N FLU E N C E S YO U R D EC I S I O N TO P U R C H A S E P R O D U C T S
(1–­1 0 )?
______ Active Ingredient(s).
______ Fragrance.
______ Price.
______ Brand.
______ Word of Mouth, Recommendations and Product Reviews.
______ Expert Opinion (doctor, aesthetician).
______ Animal Testing.
______ Packaging/Marketing.
______ Availability/ Convenience.
______ Natural Ingredients.
In order of importance, what concerns you most about your skin (1–­10)?
______ Wrinkles.
______ Sagging.
______ Acne.
______ Pigmentation/Dark Spots.
______ Oiliness.
______ Dryness.
______ Redness and Sensitivity.
______ Spider Veins.
______ Texture.
______ Scarring.

APPENDIX B

H OW LO N G D I D YO U U S E N A N O S I L K C O S M O?
o <7 days (<1 week)

o 7-­13 days (1-­2 weeks)

o 14-­20 days (2-­3 weeks)

o 21-­27 days (3-­4 weeks)

o 28+ days (>4 weeks)

H OW FR EQ U E N T LY D I D YO U U S E N A N O S I L K C O S M O S ?
o 1 day per week

o 2 days per week

o 3 days per week


LOUISELLE et al. | 11

o 4 days per week

o 5 days per week

o 6 days per week

o 7 days per week

o I did not use the product

W H E N D I D YO U N A N O S I L K C O S M O?
o Morning

o Nighttime

o Morning and Nighttime

P L E A S E R AT E T H E FO L LOW I N G C H A R AC T E R I S T I C S O F N S C O S M O

Excellent Good Average Fair Poor

Quality o o o o o
Fragrance o o o o o
Product Texture o o o o o
Ease of Application o o o o o
Effect on overall skin o o o o o
appearance
Effect on wrinkles o o o o o
Effect on hydration o o o o o
Effect on smoothness o o o o o
Effect on redness o o o o o
Effect on skin texture o o o o o
Effect on irritation o o o o o
Effect on skin firmness o o o o o

WO U L D YO U U S E N A N O S I L K C O S M O R EG U L A R LY S H O U L D I T B EC O M E C O M M E R C I A L LY AVA I L A B L E ?
o Yes

o No

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