OUTDOOR

GROW GUIDE
A cannabis seed can be planted in the ground and be given nothing but water,
and whilst it may not perform to its full potential, it should produce a harvest of
buds. However, if given a sunny location, enough water, and rich humus soil,
just one plan could produce a surprisingly bumper crop.

This guide aims to give you the know-how to be harvesting such a crop. We
assume you have your seedlings or clones ready to transplant into their first
pots.

Bagged soils
No matter how good a reputation a brand of soil may have unless you are
lucky enough to have a local producer that allows you to go and collect your
soil, there is no guarantee that that soil has been stored in ideal conditions
since it was first bagged.

Yes, the ingredients will remain the same, but if it has been cooked in the
midday sun, in the back of a van in a traffic jam, then there’s a good chance
that most of the soil life will be dead. Choose carefully where you purchase
your soils and choose suppliers that store their soils in a temperature-
controlled warehouse.

Do not buy from a garden centre that stores pallets of soil outside. This is just a
pest hotel and will most probably be devoid of microbe life if the bags have
been left out in the sunshine.

Preparation and planning

When mixing your own soil it is necessary to give it time for microbes to break
down the ingredients and make them more available. After all, plants do not
consume soil; they need microbes, bacteria and fungi to break it down into
simpler forms.

You can supercharge this process by inoculating your soil mix with bacillus,
trichoderma and mycorrhizal fungi to result in a soil that has lots of available
nutrients.
 Suitable Strains Selection
Choosing the right strain for your specific location is very important because you
will need the plants to finish blooming before the wet, windy and cold weather of
autumn arrives.

You will also need strains that are suitable for your local climate. For example, if
you grow indica strains, although they tend to finish fast they are not usually
suited to handle humidity and rain.

On the other hand, sativas are generally resistant to heat and mould etc. but will
take longer to finish. Ideally, you need an indica /sativa hybrid that has a shorter
flower period and a short stocky structure. Call your local seed companies and ask
which strains are perfect to grow locally.

Location
The space you have available to grow outdoors will dictate how many plants
to grow, and when you should plant them. If you have unlimited space with
plenty of privacy then you can grow as many as you are legally allowed, but
bear in mind, each plant planted in a sunny fertile spot will reach 6 feet tall in
just 6 - 8 weeks and will double in size during flower.

You should consider this when spacing your plants apart and when deciding
how many to plant. For example, if you wish to keep your plants small, you
should wait to plant until 6 weeks before autumn arrives so they don’t have
too much time to grow in size before they go into flower.

It’s all about timing and getting to know which strains are suitable for your
location.

One Pot Method.

If you prefer a simple approach to growing (and have already determined the
sex of your seedlings or you have rooted clones from a female), then you can
simply plant your well-rooted clone/seedling into your outdoor spot or pot
with a good quality soil mix. I recommend adding 35% perlite to the soil mix
and a couple of inches of aggregate to line the bottom.

Top dress with worm castings and inoculate with microbe tea or a 50%
strength grow feed and leave alone until you feel the soil drying out. This
might take 7 days or more with a seedling or small clone, depending on the
size of your pot, but once established and growing steadily, you should water
more frequently and at least once a week with biostimulants such as humic or
fulvic acid.

Wait until the leaves start to fade and then feed it appropriately, depending
on what stage of the plant's life the yellowing of the leaves start. If there are
still weeks before flowering starts, feed with a Nitrogen Grow formula, or if
almost, or already flowering, feed with a potassium heavy bloom feed.
 Root pruning pots (air-pots)
When you cut a branch it grows many new branches behind the cut. The same
process occurs with roots. A root only absorbs nutrients from the tip, so having
long roots circling your standard pot isn’t beneficial. Root pruning pots are
covered in perforations or slits and when the root reaches the edge of the pot,
instead of circling the inside wall it grows out of one of the holes in the pot and
the root tip meets dry air and dies back.

This is called air pruning, and it causes your root to grow many new side roots,
therefore vastly increasing uptake ability and feeding efficiency.

Root pruning pots can support approximately 300% more root mass, enabling
you to grow large plants in small pots. Because there are so many more root tips,
the roots don’t need to create huge root balls to find food. A regularly irrigated
plant in an air-pot grows to its full potential if given enough light, space, water
and the right soil.

However, they must be irrigated frequently to see their full benefit, because the
extra vents result in the soil drying out much faster than in a standard pot.

Seedling management
If you are growing regular seeds (non-feminized), it is a good idea to grow
them in small pots/cups until they show their sex (which is usually 4 -6 weeks
after germination unless being grown indoors under 24 hr lighting). This way
you can eliminate any unwanted males and then either plant the females in
the ground at your chosen prepared spot or treat them to multiple transplants
in root pruning pots with active irrigation. I like to get my plants started early
indoors before the season starts so that I have strong plants ready as soon as
the weather is suitable for planting out.

I usually start seedlings or clones in solo cups with drainage holes added, or
pots of about the same dimensions. These pots are good for at least 4 weeks,
but it depends upon the amount of light they will receive as to how quickly
they grow, and how soon they will require transplanting. Personally I keep my
seedlings under a 315w CMH (Ceramic Metal Halide) horticultural light which
covers approximately 0.8m2. This allows me to veg up to 24 plants with
enough space for each to spread to double the width of their pot without
overcrowding.
 Hand Watering

You don’t need a fancy system to feed your plants or a grow room.

In the past, I have repurposed wardrobes or closets with shelves to accommodate

many small plants with fluorescent propagator lights. These work very well if you
keep them close to the plants. Just remember to add an air extractor to maintain a
good temperature, and hand water daily. If you haven’t anywhere to grow indoors
you could just hand water them outside. If it’s cold you will need a greenhouse,
polytunnel, conservatory or a cloche to give them some protection from the wind
and rain until the summer.

Remember to only water with dechlorinated water to protect the microbes. It’s
tempting to just use an outdoor hosepipe timer attached to your mains water
supply but the chlorine will kill your soil.

Use a water butt, raised a few feet off the ground with a solar hose timer. If
possible use filtered rainwater with 0.2EC CalMag added to stabilize the pH.
Adding calcium and magnesium stabilizes the pH with plant beneficial minerals.
Adjust the pH to 6.2 using pH down. Feed your plants enough so that they are
always moist, but not wet. You will have to experiment, as it will be different for
everyone.

Active feeding

My seedlings are usually potted into mostly coir because I am actively feeding
them. If I don’t use active feed systems I pot them up into the soil.
I like to feed them on a flood and drain table, flooded twice a day for 5 minutes.

This produces very robust, strong, stocky seedlings with excellent roots. It saves
space and allows me to determine the sex of the seeds before I waste time,
energy, grow media and space growing up unwanted male plants.
As soon as I see preflowers I transplant the females and discard the males. I use
powdered feeds and use very little and always with biostimulants for fast uptake. I
foliar feed with CalMag 0.5EC, with fulvic acid twice a week. I use bloom feeds for
the first week of their small pots because it contains higher potassium and
phosphorus levels to promote prolific rooting.

Titan Hydro Cal Mag contains 12% nitrogen so is a great growth booster and super
effective as a foliar spray to fix deficiencies.

Transplanting
When the seedlings are well-established, robust and healthy, transfer them into
2L airpots with 40% coco coir, 40% general purpose potting mix, and 20% perlite.
The coir and perlite aid with drainage.

I dose my flood and drain table with a blend of ¼ strength Terpmax grow liquid
feed and ¼ strength Terpmax bloom. But any soil specific grow and bloom
nutrients will suffice. Add biostimulants, such as humic acid, fulvic acid and kelp
extracts, so you have a half-strength feed with a good amount of nitrogen and
extra potassium, which helps the plants create thick roots.
When transplanting up into the next sized pot, I always mix 60% coir and 40% soil.
I also add more liquid feeds to the schedule for the coming weeks to compensate
for the reduced amount of soil. The true benefit of this becomes clear when we
transplant into the final pot or plant into the ground in preparation for flowering.

At this point, the root ball will be mostly coco coir, which will insulate the crown of
the plant from extreme temperatures, increase the oxygen content deep into the
root zone and allow easy access for your water or feeds to soak in quickly.
If you use the same soil: coir ratio you will need to feed them daily with 1.0 EC
feeds with added humic acid. Or for a less labour intensive method, reduce the
coir content to 15% so you will have more soil and thus can simply water without
worrying about feeds. I prefer to maximise every stage because I have time to
do so, but if you are pressed for time, use mostly soil.

It is a good idea to always line the bottom of your pots or planting hole with
expanded clay balls or large gravel. This will avoid any waterlogged issues and
increase the oxygen content at the roots. Wash the clay balls thoroughly prior to
use as they can have a high pH and interfere with the drainage pH, which you
need to be able to read accurately in order to successfully diagnose plant issues
via monitoring the drainage pH and EC.

This only applies if growing in pots full term.

After the expanded clay layer, I half fill the pot with soil perlite mix, pressing it
down firmly and then sprinkle the soil with inoculant and sit the plant on the soil
and fill in around it with more soil, pressing firmly.
I always try to lay a circle of coconut coir around the stem of the plant and pack it
tightly before filling the remainder of the pot with soil.

Coconut coir has the perfect air to water ratio because 38% of its fibres are
naturally water repellent so it contains a minimum of 35% air content, even when
fully saturated. The coir creates an easy channel of less compacted media around
the stem and ensures the water/feed travels through the coir channel to the 50%
depth where the new soil starts.

This ensures thorough distribution of the water instead of it pooling on the

surface and escaping down the inner wall of the pots. This is especially beneficial if
you use airpots / root prune pots because I have often lost almost 50% of my
irrigation water draining straight out of all the breather holes.

After the solo cup stage, I transplant to 2L root prune/air pots with soil mix with
1/4 a cup (approx 35g) of worm castings. Then every 4 weeks I transplant to the
next size pot.
This is extra work but you get back twice the effort in extra yield. The plants stay in
these for approximately 4 weeks and are eventually transplanted into a 7L pot of
soil mix + 1 cup of worm castings. By the end of the next 3 to 4 weeks I have a
stocky bush ready to burst into flower. The final transplant as summer ends and
autumn begins is into a 20L pot or planting hole of soil + bat guano which will
provide the plant with the potassium and phosphorus that the plant needs to start
building flowers

The advantage of multiple transplanting is a dense root ball that can process your
feeds very efficiently. If you feed regularly you will see a yield that far surpasses
plants that were grown in one pot all their life.
 Ground Preparation

If you are planning to plant straight into the dirt you need to get prepared:

Remove existing soil

Dig at least 2ft deep, line with 3inches of rocks, gravel or expanded clay
Replace removed soil with a good quality soil mix,
Drive good sturdy fence posts deep into the ground 6” away from your
intended planting holes; these will be your main stem supports.
Cover your entire planting area with geo fabric, anti-weed growth membrane.
Install a watering hose with sections of porous soaker hose circling your plant's
hole
Transplant your seedling or clone.

Later, just before the start of flowering, we can estimate (judging by how big it has
gotten up till that point in time and bearing in mind that most plants can easily
double during bloom) the final width of our plants and drive at least 6 more
scaffold pole sections into the earth to add 19mm UPVC pipes from one side of the
plant to the next.

So, we are left with 3 arcs to use to pull plastic sheet over the plants towards the
end of the season when rains might be more frequent and at a time when you
have thick buds that you really want to try and avoid getting too wet to avoid
mould or fungal attacks!

When you have 3 arcs of tube over your plant or plants, secure each hoop to the
next with bamboo or more pvc pipes to create a fully rigid structure, then pull
plastic sheeting over and secure in place.

Spacing & Crop Support

 Photo 1 courtesy of Cofgreen@Breedbay Forums

If you grow a cannabis plant from early spring through to summer in a hot climate
with good soil, you will have a tree of approximately 4m wide, 4m tall by the time
you go into bloom and the plants could double in size during bloom if not trained.
If you want smaller, more manageable, covert plants, you can either plant them
later in the summer or top them and train them horizontally using guide wires and
netting.

For small plants that will finish at 1.5M tall and perhaps 1.5m wide, you would
want to space your planting holes approximately 3m apart to give you easy access
all around each plant, but for larger tree sized sativas you want at least 6m apart.
Of course, with planning, good support guide wires and some work you can make
your plants fit your space, I have seen some amazing grows with plants very close
to a fence with all the branches front and back removed leaving a sort of peacocks
tail shaped plant flat against the fence, secured with horizontal netting.
Constructing some sort of shelter on top of the fence will protect your plants from
most rain showers.

No matter how small or large your plants are before they bloom you will need to
add some sort of canopy support to hold the plants up when they are carrying
long heavy buds. The bigger your plants, the more support they require.
Small (3ft – 5ft) plants can be supported using multiple canes planted around your
plant, tied together at the top like a wigwam.
 Photo 2 courtesy of Benny@Breedbay Forums

These will be adequate, but any plant larger than this will need a much stronger
support frame around it.

I prefer the scrog (screen of green) method because the plants weave through the
horizontal netting as they get wider, resulting in a very well anchored down plant
that should cope with winds well, and will be infinitely easier to maintain and
harvest.

Just remember to build a strong, well anchored support frame to secure your
horizontal netting. This is the net that will train your plant sideways. It will be
carrying a lot of weight and need to be windproof.

At least 2 layers of netting is best, a low training layer like in photo 1 and another
layer you add at approximately 1ft from your canopy, this will be to support your
field of buds.

Remove all the leaves from your plants below the first layer of netting so you have
airflow and because any leaves near the ground are an invitation for bugs.
 Photo 2 courtesy of Benny@Breedbay Forums

Controlling Quality
The difference between outdoor cannabis that looks a little sad, a little dark, and
smells like grass clippings, and high quality cured, high terpene glistening buds
covered in resin, is rain! If you can protect your plants from rain, the difference in
quality is quite remarkable.

When it rains, heavy water droplets hit your buds knocking a lot of the resin off.

Rain also delivers contaminants and dirt leaving your flowers waterlogged, and
increasing the risk of moulds.
There are mould spores that are constantly airborne: if they find suitable humid
conditions they start to infiltrate the plant, spreading rapidly and they can
devastate a crop in days. Rain is your arch enemy when cultivating outdoors: rain
and wind!

If you grow shorter plants you can construct some sort of sloped roof shelter with
open sides to protect your plants from the worst of the rains.
The perfect place to cultivate for many reasons is inside a hoop house or
glasshouse.

You get the benefit of natural full spectrum sunlight but without the rain damage.

Watering quantity and frequency

The quantity of water/feed needed will be determined by the size of your pot. The
frequency of feeds would be determined by the size of the plant and the ambient
temperatures and how many hours of direct sunlight your plants receive.

Make a mental note of the weight of the pot when dry and when wet, so you can
judge if it needs feeding by lifting the edge of your pot to check the weight. As a
general rule, the amount of water for your first irrigation after planting will be
equal to 50% of the size of your pot: a 10L pot will need a 5L initial feed to
saturate, but once saturated will only require approximately 2L every watering,
approximately 20% of the size of the pot.

A Wick System

The simplest method to maintain a constant moisture level in your soil is to build a
wick system, simply by adding a wick rope to your pot when you add your grow
media, with half the wick curled inside your pot and the other half hanging out of a
hole in your pot and sitting in a reservoir of water.

For one plant you could use any plastic storage tub as your reservoir with your pot
sat on top and your wick hanging into the water through a hole in the lid
 Photo by mcinnominds @j kuatinnovations.tech.blog

If it’s a long toy tub you can place more than one plant on top, or for many plants
you can use drainage pipe, with an endcap and a corner fitting the opposite end
facing up for easy topping up your pipe.

Drill holes in the sides of your pots instead of the bottom and lay the pipe behind
your pots.

Wick GTI

You can further enhance your wick system by aerating or recirculating your water/
solution in your wick reservoir to keep it super oxygenated.
As your medium dries out the media will suck moisture from your wick to balance
the moisture level in the pot, and as your wick dries out it absorbs more liquid
from your reservoir.
It’s a sort of plant driven feeding system with the addition of a water supply. If the
water supply is mains or gravity fed from another reservoir, you can fit a ballcock
float valve to keep your wick reservoir topped up.

The disadvantages of a wick system are that they aren't very good at supplying
nutrients in high amounts.

For small plants they are perfect, but for larger plants, you would need many wicks
per plant, or use it more as a backup and hand-feed during really hot periods to
ensure your plants receive enough feed.

Organic Feeds
Plants do not care where they get their nutrients, organic or mineral the plant
absorbs the same elements. The only difference is where they have come from
and in what ratios they are available to your plant at any given time.

Organics can be very hit and miss, with considerable differences between batches
of the same brand of soil. The quality of the soil depends on how it is transported
and stored. It only takes one day of being left out in the hot sun to totally kill the
microbes in the soil.

This makes producing a constantly high-quality product quite a challenge unless

you have space, time and energy to premix your own soils, and then you can have
more precise control over what your plants uptake. But even the best mix is
useless without microbes.

If the conditions aren’t ideal your microbe colony will suffer and your plants will
suffer. I find it necessary to regularly inoculate with an array of beneficial
microbes, pre activated before applying them to your crop. We can activate
powdered beneficial bacteria and fungal spores by mixing with water and giving
them an energy source such as molasses sugar. I prefer a more reliable,
predictable approach to cultivating, but if you are a commercial operation, earning
a good living from your end product and you achieve a higher price for your
organically grown flowers, then spending the money, time and energy necessary
to do organics properly, with rotating compost piles and stage specific
amendments premixed a year prior to use, then it is worth the time and energy to
meet the demand.
 Organic Feeds

There is another approach, that I call Morganics, which consists of mixing mineral
salts with organic biostimulants and chelating agents to deliver an immediately
available, highly soluble feed to your plants without being so heavily reliant on
microbes.

Some people frown at the thought of adding mineral salts to their soil but this is
mostly due to the very sloppy practices of many farmers who are constantly
squeezed by their distributors for lower prices, forcing them to squeeze more
yield from their fields to stay profitable. Some end up spraying their crops with
very heavy salt mixes and the excess runoff ends up in our waterways. After a
number of years of intensive farming without proper crop rotation, the soils’
microbe life has been almost wiped out. This has given mineral feeds a bad
reputation.

You can use any brand of feed you desire, just buy a good quality feed with a full
range that has been blended to work together perfectly.
Start with a nitrogen-based grow feed - preferably in 2 parts (A+B) because in
concentrated form the minerals would react together if they were added to one
bottle. I have used them all, there are many quality nutrient brands available to
choose from with formulations for soft and hard water, grow, bloom and boosters.
I have used most brands available with great results but I started to feel annoyed
at the number of plastic bottles I would get through and have to get rid of covertly.
Not to mention the back-breaking trips to grow shops to restock more bulky, very
heavy plastic tubs of liquids.

So now I use a range of dry feeds called Terpmax from a British company called
Titan Hydro. I have had amazing success using both mineral feeds and organic
biostimulants such as humic acid, fulvic acid and kelp extracts. When a mineral is
chelated it is literally coated in organic particles that allow it to pass more freely
through the root membrane. The biostimulants chelate the mineral salts
increasing their availability, but also delivering extra energy from the organic
component.

Humic acid also improves soil structure greatly, neutralizes toxins and supplies an
array of trace minerals. Chelated minerals are so readily available that you can
reduce your overall EC by 20% with no loss of vigour or yield. Mineral feeds can be
blended to deliver precisely what the plant needs in the perfect ratio at each stage
of the plants’ life.

Alternating morganic feeds with periodic microbe teas are the best way
to get the best of both worlds.
 Terpmax Feed Chart
You can add feeds to the weeks that state to use teas if you prefer, and you can
miss out on some of the early feeds if you have good soil and your plants are
growing fast with lush dark green growth. Feed as little as necessary but use this
as a guide for what to add if your plants start to show signs of needing feeds at
any stage.

Only use dechlorinated water when mixing feeds or feeding water only. You need
to have a water butt filled a day before you mix your feeds ideally, or at least use
an air pump and airstone in your water butt to purge the chlorine in about 6
hours.
I find that if you have a timed irrigation system, feeding little and often is far better
than a lot all at once. The usual wet and dry cycle is not ideal for microbes to
thrive. A constant moisture level is a perfect environment for explosive root
production and a supercharged microbe colony.

Organic amendments are usually available to the plants approximately ten days
after you top-dress with them, as long as temperatures are warm but not too hot
and there is adequate moisture available. After ten days the microbe colony
begins to digest them, breaking them down and releasing their nutrients.

I usually apply my first bat guano top dressing on approximately day 20, so by day
30+ the plant has increased potassium available to start building some heavy
buds. Without extra microbial inoculants such as compost teas, some
amendments such as bat guano can take up to two weeks to be available, or
longer if it’s cold.

Inoculants
Plants rely on a healthy herd of beneficial soil microbes, fungi and bacteria to
digest the soil into simpler, more readily available forms.

I use a powdered blend of beneficial bacteria, trichoderma and mycorrhizae,

called Mycorrmax from TNC (The Nutrient Company). It contains an array of
beneficial microbes that protect your roots from disease, stimulates new root
growth, fixates nitrogen and breaks down your soil into simpler forms of nutrients
that are easier for your plants to uptake.

I usually brew a microbe tea which fully activates the dormant spores and speeds
up colonization fivefold. It is pretty simple to make, you just need to ensure the
amount of water is adequate to treat all your plants.

So, let’s say we have 20 plants just potted up or planted in the field, a minimum of
1L of tea is required for each transplant and for established plants 3L per plant.
 5g inoculant per plant x 20 = 100g
2L of black strap molasses (10%)
18L of water *

1. Add the water to a 25L minimum container. Add molasses and mix thoroughly
2. Add inoculant and stir thoroughly. Aerate for 24 hours minimum (Ideally 56+)
3. Dilute to 10% strength before use.

Any left over, undiluted concentrate will last for 2 months in the refrigerator, but
once diluted you should use it within 48 hours. Using teas vastly speeds up the
breakdown of your soil into available forms.

But if you mix your own soil and it is rich with amendments, then I suggest only
using teas at the beginning of veg, when you first transplant, at the beginning of
bloom, and again at mid-bloom. Your soil and watering will supply your plants with
everything else they need. If you purposely potted up into a light mix to take over
feeding during bloom, follow the Terpmax feed chart.
 Flushing

When you are 2 or 3 weeks away from the specified harvest date of your selected
strains, you will notice that most feed schedules will be finishing with only water,
or water and molasses. Nitrogen tastes very bitter and so does starch. The idea is
to starve the plant of nitrogen from mid-flower and supply reduced potassium,
phosphorus etc., so that the plant is forced to pull stored nutrients and
carbohydrates from its leaves, leaving a nitrogen-free end product.

For indica strains, from day 44 until harvest, or with sativa dominant strains, from
about day 63, stop all amendments and begin to water with only 10% molasses.
This gradually dilutes any nutrients in the pot releasing them for the plant to
uptake. It begins the flushing process, leaching nutrients out of the soil with each
watering, forcing the plant to reabsorb its stored energy from its fan leaves. The
added molasses feeds the microbes and keeps them releasing micronutrients
from your soil to help your plant continue to build terpenes and ripen.

It will be evident with each day of water only: after 7 to 10 days the leaves change
from lush green to almost white and hang off the plants.
The survival response is triggered by cutting feeds, making the plant consume the
nutrients stored in the leaves to feed the new growth, resulting in dense buds and
enabling the plant to stay alive long enough to finish ripening.

By the end, your plants should be yellow or purple if it’s cold but totally devoid of
nitrogen with most of the fan leaves yellow and almost falling off. It will look
terrible but under the yellow leaves are perfectly clean, nitrogen-free, tasty buds.

Harvest & drying tips

Knowing when to harvest is important especially if you are growing for medicine:
you want the cannabinoids to be fully ripe. The best method is using a macro lens
on your phone or a dedicated camera to examine the resin glands on your buds as
they get closer to the expected harvest date.

For a happy creative high, harvest when the trichomes are mostly cloudy. You will
see that they change from clear as glass to milky white. This stage is perfect
ripeness but for a more relaxing body effect, or if you need help sleeping, leave
your harvest until you see some of your trichomes go amber. The more amber,
the more sedating the effect will be. Bear in mind the further past the milky stage
you take your flowers the more terpenes you will lose as terpene production stops
at this point.
When you harvest, it is best to dry your flowers slowly, ideally at 60 degrees F and
60% humidity with some airflow and extraction to control the humidity at 60%
maximum for the first 2 weeks.

At this point, I second trim my buds from the harvested de-leaved branches and
store the trimmed buds in toy totes and open them once a day to ventilate for 10
minutes before re-covering. Do this for 2 weeks and all the stored starches will
convert to sugars resulting in a smooth, clean, tasty end product.

You can buy controlled humidity pouches that you store with your curing buds to
maintain ideal moisture content while curing to preserve terpenes and flavour.
You can store your buds long term vacuum packed in a freezer. Just let them reach
room temperature before you open the vacuum bag once removed from the
freezer to stop condensation forming on the flowers. If you store in jars, use the
moisture packs to maintain quality.
 About Seedsman
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