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End Grain Plywood End Table With Laminated Legs
End Grain Plywood End Table With Laminated Legs
by petachock
I started o by collecting loads of o cuts of plywood I best quality). I then sorted through them again to nd
had in my workshop, mainly to use up them all up, as I the best ones which I used for the top surface.
had quite a few left over from the past few months.
To glue them I turned all but the last piece on it's side
I ripped the plywood to a thickness of 22mm (7/8") on and glued all the pieces at the same time, clamped
the table saw and then cut them to the 270mm (10.5") them together and waited around an hour to dry
long. In total I had over 50 pieces of the plywood before unclamping and going on to the next panel.
strips. Once they were all done I cleaned then up and
squared them o on the table saw.
I sorted through the plywood to nd the pieces with
the least amount of holes (the ply I had was not the
So for the end of the table look it's best I decided to degree on what would be the front face to add a nice
go for a mitred joint as this would retain symmetry planned detail.
and look most pleasing to the eye.
I then cut some holes using a biscuit jointer to add
I set the blade on my table saw to 45 degrees using a strength to the mitres followed by sanding the
digital angle meter and cut the edges of each panel. internal surface to 180 grit as this would be less
There were a few places, near the points, where part accessible later on.
of the plywood lamination had split o but I would
deal with this later with the detailing/design Once sanded I glued the edges and clamped with a
features/mistake covering up (they are all similar and band clamp and a few F clamps.
generally interchangeable for me!). I also cut a part 45
I started planning the legs on CAD so I could visualise than an inch so I thought that would most likely be
the proportions and angles the strips would make ne.
through the main body. After a few iterations I came
up with some spacings which looked nice and which I I then transferred the measurements to the sides of
thought I could cut without any massive chunks the table body, marking them on with pencil.
falling o . The gap between the bottom cuts were less
End Grain Plywood End Table With Laminated Legs: Page 4
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https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FV1/Y8DN/KFS9BUXG/FV1Y8DNKFS9BUXG.pdf
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https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F0R/XU2N/KFS9BUXH/F0RXU2NKFS9BUXH.dwg
My next dilemma was cutting the slots for the legs. I To cut the slots I did two passes, the rst one was
had a few ideas and originally decided to use a router, quite shallow (2 to 3mm deep) followed by a full
guiding it against a fence (clamped bit o wood). I depth cut. I was hoping to minimise tear out, which I
started setting this up but it would mean that the didn't get, so maybe it worked, or maybe I could have
router would be fairly high up and it didn't feel quite just gone full depth rst of all and still got minimal
right. Then in the middle of setting it up I thought I'd tear-out?
look in to using a cross cut sled so started setting that
up as well. Once it was set up, I managed to clamp The rst slot was the worse one as the rst cut moved
and wedge the table body in to a fairly stable position, to the main table body, so I had to reposition/re-
so went for this option instead. clamp before cutting again. As it happened the
second cut was slightly o so the slot was wider for
On my cross cut sled I have slots cut for hold down the rst couple of millimetres. All but one other one
clamps which really helped in this case and could cut ne with no problems.
generally clamp the body down and wedge two sides
in to place. Some cut positions were easier to stabilise
than others but I managed to cut them all safely.
The next step was to set up the bandsaw to make cuts as I could plane, sand and test t as I went along, it
slightly wider than the table saw blade. I set the fence was quite laborious though. When I was happy with
on the bandsaw and took several cuts on some scrap the t I left that strip in the slot and went on to the
wood, making small adjustments as I went until the next one.
strips were as wide as I wanted them.
I then removed the strips and numbered them so I
I wanted them slightly wider as I would need to sand could t them back in to the same slot when gluing
the strips to a nice nish as part of each strip would up.
be visible. This also allowed me to have tighter joints
The rst step was to glue all the strips in to the slots. I didn't use much glue as it wasn't required since the joints
were already very tight. Any excess glue would only lead to more dry glue to contend with.
So may plan for the legs was to have the bottom of all the legs in the same place.
the legs in line with the front/back of the main body.
In general the method worked but not quite for one
I place a couple of timbers on my table saw (with the of the legs which ended up being a little wonkier than
saw blade down) so I could get a clamp on the joining the others.
part whilst maintaining the legs and body level. I also
used the timber close to the legs as a guide so clamp
Now the legs were complete I looked at nishing the were a couple of gaps that needed lling. I decided
main body. I started by planning the legs strips so that instead of hiding my mistakes I would almost
they were almost level with the body, followed by highlight them by lling the gaps with a moisture of
sanding them completely ush. epoxy and black reinforcing ller.
Due to the quality of the ply there were quite a few Once dried I sanded the whole table.
holes and due to the quality of two of my cuts there
Lastly I trimmed the bottom of the legs by placing the front of the table against the sliding table on my saw so I
knew the bottom of the legs would be parallel with the main body.
I love this. I have added it to my favorites. I have question though. I may have missed it in the
instructions... You said you transferred the measurements from CAD to the project. I didn't see
where you posted those. Are you selling the plans?
I have added the CAD file and a pdf of the CAD drawing to step 3. The measurements are in
millimeters by the way!
Hi. Thanks for your comment. I'm not selling my CAD plans, they are quite basic but I will add them
to this instructable later today if they are of interest to you. Cheers!
Wow, that's a funky and unique approach. Nice work, I like it!
Thanks!