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The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Week's Tramp in
Dickens-Land
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Title: A Week's Tramp in Dickens-Land

Author: William R. Hughes

Illustrator: Frederic George Kitton

Release date: February 25, 2010 [eBook #31394]

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WEEK'S TRAMP

IN DICKENS-LAND ***
 A WEEK'S TRAMP
IN

DICKENS-LAND

The Marshes, Cooling.

 A WEEK'S TRAMP
IN

DICKENS-LAND
TOGETHER WITH
Personal Reminiscences of the 'Inimitable Boz'
THEREIN COLLECTED.

BY
WILLIAM R. HUGHES, F.L.S.

WITH MORE THAN A HUNDRED

ILLUSTRATIONS BY F. G. KITTON
AND OTHER ARTISTS.

LONDON: CHAPMAN & HALL, Limited.

BOSTON: ESTES AND LAURIAT.
1891.

Richard Clay & Sons, Limited,

London & Bungay.

[All Rights reserved.]

TO

MY WIFE AND DAUGHTERS,

EMILY AND EDITH,

 I DEDICATE

THIS RECORD OF "A WEEK'S TRAMP,"

TO REMIND THEM OF

THE MANY PLEASANT READINGS FROM DICKENS

WE HAVE ENJOYED TOGETHER

AT HOME.
 PREFACE.
* * * * * *
"'I should like to show you a series of eight articles, Sir, that have
appeared in the Eatanswill Gazette. I think I may venture to say that
you would not be long in establishing your opinions on a firm and
solid basis, Sir.'
"'I dare say I should turn very blue long before I got to the end of
them,' responded Bob.
"Mr. Pott looked dubiously at Bob Sawyer for some seconds, and
turning to Mr. Pickwick said:—
"'You have seen the literary articles which have appeared at
intervals in the Eatanswill Gazette in the course of the last three
months, and which have excited such general—I may say such
universal—attention and admiration?'
"'Why,' replied Mr. Pickwick, slightly embarrassed by the question,
'the fact is, I have been so much engaged in other ways, that I really
have not had an opportunity of perusing them.'
"'You should do so, Sir,' said Pott with a severe countenance.
"'I will,' said Mr. Pickwick.
"'They appeared in the form of a copious review of a work on
Chinese metaphysics, Sir,' said Pott.
"'Oh,' observed Mr. Pickwick—'from your pen I hope?'
"'From the pen of my critic, Sir,' rejoined Pott with dignity.
"'An abstruse subject I should conceive,' said Mr. Pickwick.
 "'Very, Sir,' responded Pott, looking intensely sage. 'He crammed
for it, to use a technical but expressive term; he read up for the
subject, at my desire, in the Encyclopædia Britannica.'
"'Indeed!' said Mr. Pickwick; 'I was not aware that that valuable
work contained any information respecting Chinese metaphysics.'
"'He read, Sir,' rejoined Mr. Pott, laying his hand on Mr. Pickwick's
knee, and looking round with a smile of intellectual superiority, 'he
read for metaphysics under the letter M, and for China under the
letter C; and combined his information, Sir!'
"Mr. Pott's features assumed so much additional grandeur at the
recollection of the power and research displayed in the learned
effusions in question, that some minutes elapsed before Mr. Pickwick
felt emboldened to renew the conversation."

* * * * * *
The above perennial extract from the immortal Pickwick Papers
suggests to some extent the nature of the contents of this Volume.
It is the record of a pilgrimage made by two enthusiastic Dickensians
during the late summer of 1888, together with "combined
information,"—not indeed "crammed" from the ninth edition just
completed of the valuable work above referred to, but gathered
mostly from original sources,—respecting the places visited, the
characters alluded to in some of the novels, personal reminiscences
of their Author, appropriate passages from his works (for which
acknowledgments are due to Messrs. Chapman and Hall), and some
little mention of the thoughts developed by the associations of
"Dickens-Land."
Although the pilgrimage only extended to a week, and every spot
referred to (save one) was actually visited during that time, it is but
right to state that on three subsequent occasions the author has
gone over the greater part of the same ground—once in the early
winter, when the blue clematis and the aster had given place to the
yellow jasmine and the chrysanthemum; once in the early spring,
when those had been succeeded by the almond-blossom and the
crocus; and again in the following year, when the beautiful county of
Kent was rehabilitated in summer clothing, thus enabling him to
verify observations, to correct possible errors arising from first
impressions, and to gain new experiences.
As our head-quarters were at Rochester, and most of the city and
other parts were taken at odd times, it has not been found
practicable to preserve in consecutive chapters a perfect sequence of
the records of each day's tramp, although they appear in fairly
chronological order throughout the work. "A preliminary tramp in
London" will possibly be dull to those familiar with the great
Metropolis, but it may be useful to foreign tramps in "Dickens-Land."
Availing myself of the privilege adopted by most travellers at
home and abroad, I have made occasional references to the
weather. This is perhaps excusable when it is remembered that the
year 1888 was a very remarkable one in that respect, so much so
indeed, that the writer of a leading article in The Times of January
18th, 1889, in commenting on Mr. G. J. Symons' report of the British
rainfall of the previous year, remarked that "seldom within living
memory had there been a twelve-month with more unpleasantness
in it and less of genial sunshine." We were specially favoured,
however, in getting more "sunshine" than "unpleasantness," thus
adding to the enjoyment of our never-to-be-forgotten tramp.
Upwards of three years have elapsed since this book was
commenced, and the limited holiday leisure of a hard-working official
life has necessarily prevented its completion for such a lengthened
period, that it has come to be pleasantly referred to by my many
Dickensian friends as the "Dictionary," in allusion to the important
work of that nature contemplated by Dr. Strong, respecting which
(says David Copperfield) "Adams, our head-boy, who had a turn for
mathematics, had made a calculation, I was informed, of the time
this Dictionary would take in completing, on the Doctor's plan, and
at the Doctor's rate of going. He considered that it might be done in
one thousand six hundred and forty-nine years, counting from the
Doctor's last, or sixty-second, birthday."
My hearty and sincere acknowledgments are due to the
publishers, Messrs. Chapman and Hall, not only for the very
handsome manner in which they have allowed my book to be got up
as regards print, paper, and execution (to follow the model of their
Victoria Edition of Pickwick is indeed an honour to me), but
especially for their great liberality in the matter of the Illustrations,
which number more than a hundred. These were selected in
conference by Mr. Fred Chapman, Mr. Kitton, and myself, and include
about fifty original drawings by Mr. Kitton, from sketches specially
made by him for this work. Of the remainder, six are from Forster's
Life of Dickens, fifteen from Langton's Childhood and Youth of
Charles Dickens, seven from Charles Dickens by Pen and Pencil, ten
from the Jubilee Edition of Pickwick, and five from Rimmer's About
England with Dickens. A few interesting fac-similes of handwriting,
etc., have also been introduced. Surely such an eclectic series of
Dickens Illustrations has never before been presented in one
volume.
To Messrs. Chapman and Hall, Mr. Robert Langton, F.R.H.S.,
Messrs. Frank T. Sabin and John F. Dexter, Messrs. Macmillan and
Co., and Messrs. Chatto and Windus (the proprietors of the above-
mentioned works), the author's acknowledgments are also due, and
are hereby tendered. Mr. Stephen T. Aveling has kindly supplied an
illustration of Restoration House as it appeared in Dickens's time,
and Mr. William Ball, J.P., generously commissioned a local artist to
make a sketch of the Marshes, which forms the frontispiece to the
book, and gives a good idea of the "long stretches of flat lands" on
the Kent and Essex coasts.
To those friends whom we then met for the first time, and from
whom we subsequently received help, the author's most cordial
acknowledgments are due, and are also tendered, for kind
information and assistance. They are a goodly number, and include
Mr. A. A. Arnold, Mr. Stephen T. Aveling, Mr. William Ball, J.P., Mr.
James Baird, Mr. Charles Bird, F.G.S., Major and Mrs. Budden, Mr. W.
J. Budden, Mr. R. L. Cobb, Mr. J. Couchman, The Misses Drage, Mrs.
Easedown, Mr. Franklin Homan, Mr. James Hulkes, J.P., and Mrs.
Hulkes, Mr. Apsley Kennette, Mrs. Latter, Mr. J. Lawrence, Mr. C. D.
Levy, Mr. B. Lillie, Mr. J. E. Littlewood, Mr. J. N. Malleson, Rev. J. J.
Marsham, M.A., Mrs. Masters, Mr. Miles, Mr. W. Millen, Mr. Geo.
Payne, F.S.A., Mr. William Pearce, Mr. George Robinson, Mr. T. B.
Rosseter, F.R.M.S., Dr. Sheppard, Mr. Henry Smetham, Dr. Steele,
M.R.C.S., Mr. William Syms, Mrs. Taylor, Miss Taylor, Mr. W. S. Trood,
Major Trousdell, Rev. Robert Whiston, M.A., Mr. W. T. Wildish, Mr.
Humphrey Wood, Mr. C. K. Worsfold, and Mrs. Henry Wright. The
late Mr. Roach Smith, F.S.A., took much interest in my work and gave
valuable assistance. Mr. Luke Fildes, R.A., and Mrs. Lynn Linton
generously contributed very interesting information. The Right
Honourable the Earl of Darnley, Mr. Henry Fielding Dickens, Mr. W. P.
Frith, R.A., and Lady Head, also kindly answered enquiries.
Miss Hogarth has at my request very kindly consented to the
publication of the original letters of the Novelist—about a dozen—
now printed for the first time.
My sincere thanks are due to Mr. E. W. Badger, F.R.H.S., the friend
of many years, for valuable help.
To my old friend and fellow-tramp, Mr. F. G. Kitton, with whose
memory this delightful excursion will ever be pleasantly connected,
my warmest thanks are due for reading proofs and for much kind
help in many ways. "He wos werry good to me, he wos." As Pip
wrote to another "Jo," "woT larX" we did have.
Last, but not least, my cordial thanks are due to Mr. Charles
Dickens for much kind information and valuable criticism.
So long as readers continue to be, so long will our great English
trilogy of cognate authors, Shakespeare, Scott, and Dickens,
continue to be read. Indeed as regards Dickens, a writer in
Blackwood, June, 1871 (and Blackwood was not always a
sympathetic critic), said:—"We may apply to him, without doubt, the
surest test to which the maker can be subject: were all his books
swept by some intellectual catastrophe out of the world, there would
still exist in the world some score at least of people, with all whose
ways and sayings we are more intimately acquainted than with those
of our brothers and sisters, who would owe to him their being. While
we live Sam Weller and Dick Swiveller, Mr. Pecksniff and Mrs. Gamp,
the Micawbers and the Squeerses, can never die. . . . They are more
real than we are ourselves, and will outlive and outlast us, as they
have outlived their creator. This is the one proof of genius which no
critic, not the most carping or dissatisfied, can gainsay."
So long also, the author ventures to think, will pilgrimages
continue to be made to the shrines of Stratford-on-Avon, Abbotsford,
and Gad's Hill Place, and to their vicinities. The modest aim of this
Volume is, that it may add a humble unit in helping to keep his
memory green, and that it may be a useful and acceptable
companion to pilgrims, not only of our own country, but also from
that still "Greater Britain," where "All the Year Round" the name of
Charles Dickens is almost a dearer "Household Word" than it is with
us.
William R. Hughes.
Wood House, Handsworth Wood,
near Birmingham.
30th September, 1891.
 CONTENTS.
CHAP. PAGE
Preface vii
I. Introductory 1
II. A Preliminary Tramp in London 7
III. Rochester City 51
IV. Rochester Castle 98
V. Rochester Cathedral 111
VI. Richard Watts's Charity, Rochester 142
VII. An Afternoon at Gad's Hill Place 161
VIII. Charles Dickens and Strood 211
IX. Chatham:—St. Mary's Church, Ordnance Terrace, The House on
the Brook, The Mitre Hotel, and Fort Pitt. Landport:—Portsea,
Hants 251
X. Aylesford, Town Malling, and Maidstone 288
XI. Broadstairs, Margate, and Canterbury 317
XII. Cooling, Cliffe, and Higham 349
XIII. Cobham Park and Hall, The Leather Bottle, Shorne, Chalk, and
the Dover Road 376
XIV. A Final Tramp in Rochester and London 405
Index 427
LIST
OF
 ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
The Marshes, Cooling F. G. Kitton
(from a Sketch by E. L.
Meadows) Frontispiece
Headpiece, "Humour" (From two
Statuettes of "Mr.
Pickwick" and "Sam
Weller" in Crown Derby Engraved by R.
Ware) Langton xvii
The Golden Cross Herbert Railton 10
Young Dickens at the Blacking
Warehouse F. Barnard 12
Fountain Court, Temple C. A. Vanderhoof 16
Staple Inn, Holborn " " 21
Barnard's Inn Herbert Railton 23
Dickens's House, Furnival's Inn " " 25
No. 48, Doughty Street J. Grego 28
Tavistock House, Tavistock Square J. Liddell 30
No. 141, Bayham Street F. G. Kitton 37
No. 1, Devonshire Terrace D. Maclise, R.A. 40
Fac-simile of Letter, Charles
Dickens 43
Apotheosis of "Grip" the Raven D. Maclise, R.A. 45
"My magnificent order at the
Public House" Phiz 49
Bull Inn, Rochester—"good house,
nice beds" Herbert Railton 56
Staircase at "the Bull" F. G. Kitton 58
The "Elevated Den" in the Ball-
room, "Bull Inn" F. G. Kitton 61
Old Rochester Bridge Herbert Railton 68
The Guildhall, Rochester F. G. Kitton 71
The "Moon-faced" Clock in High
Street " " 72
In High Street, Rochester " " 73
Eastgate House, Rochester F. G. Kitton 74
Mr. Sapsea's House, Rochester " " 76
(After sketch by H.
Mr. Sapsea's Father
Wickham) 77
Restoration House, Rochester F. G. Kitton 79
Old Rochester Theatre, Star Hill W. Hull 84
The Castle from Rochester Bridge F. G. Kitton 99
The Keep of Rochester Castle Herbert Railton 101
Interior of Rochester Castle F. G. Kitton 105
Rochester Castle and the Medway " " 109
Rochester Cathedral " " 112
Rochester Cathedral, Interior " " 115
The Crypt, Rochester Cathedral Phiz 118
Minor Canon Row, Rochester F. G. Kitton 123
College Gate (or "Chertsey's"
Gate), Rochester F. G. Kitton 125
Prior's Gate, Rochester " " 126
Deanery Gate, Rochester " " 128
The Vines and Restoration House,
Rochester " " 131
(Engraved from a
Restoration House, as it appeared
Drawing by an
in Dickens's time
Amateur) 133
St. Nicholas' Burying-ground F. G. Kitton 136
Memorial Brass in Rochester
Cathedral 138
The "Six Poor Travellers" F. G. Kitton 143
Richard Watts's Almshouses,
Rochester " " 149
Fac-similes of Signatures of
Charles Dickens and Mark
Lemon 151
The "Six Poor Travellers" from the
Rear F. G. Kitton 153
A Dormitory in the "Six Poor
Travellers": Gallery
leading to the Dormitories F. G. Kitton 154
Satis House (From a Photograph) 156
Watts's Monument in Rochester
Cathedral R. Langton 157
Rochester from Strood Hill C. Marshall 162
The "Sir John Falstaff" Inn, Gad's
Hill F. G. Kitton 164
Gad's Hill Place " " 166
F. G. Kitton (from the
"The Empty Chair." Gad's Hill,
Drawing by S. L.
Ninth of June, 1870
Fildes, R.A.) 170
Counterfeit Book-backs on Study
Door R. Langton 172
Gad's Hill Place from the Rear J. Liddell 177
"The Grave of Dick, the best of
Birds" F. G. Kitton 178
The Well at Gad's Hill Place " " 181
The Porch, Gad's Hill Place J. Liddell 183
The Cedars, Gad's Hill E. Hull 185
View from the Roof of Dickens's
House, Gad's Hill F. G. Kitton 189
Fac-similes of Gad's Hill Gazette
and Final Notice 199-203
Temple Farm, Strood F. G. Kitton 213