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Bloomy Bracelet
(Crochet Pattern)
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An original
LillaBjörnCrochet Design
(Tatsiana Kupryianchyk).
Copyright 2015.
All rights reserved.
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What you’ll need

Leftovers of yarn in three

colors: dark blue, light Introduction_____________________
blue and cream.
I used yarn “Catania” by This is a third bracelet in a series of my mandala bangles.
Schachenmayr (50g/1.76 This project is quick and colorful. And it is also an
oz., excellent chance to learn the basics of overlay crochet. The
125 m/137 yds.) bracelet consists of a round mandala and a crocheted strap
with a button.
Yarn weight: Sport The pattern is written for two sizes and will perfectly suite
Texture: 5 ply (12 wpi) both kids and adults!
Crochet hook 2.75 mm (C)
or size needed to get 28 sc
and 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm Abbreviations___________
(4” x 4”).
rnd round
Please, feel free to choose st(s) stitch(es)
thinner yarn and smaller slst slip stitch
hook to get mandala ch chain
smaller in size. sc single crochet
Scissors, tapestry needle to dc double crochet
weave in ends. dc3tog double crochet 3 together
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tr treble crochet
FPtr2tog front post treble crochet 2 together
Finished size
inc increase
The size of the finished dec decrease
bracelet depends on the yo yarn over
yarn and hook you use. My lp(s) loop(s)
bracelets are approx. 16 FL front loop(s)
cm (6 ½”) long and 5 cm BL back loop(s)
(2”) wide (Size 1); and 20 NJ needle join
cm (8”) long and 7 cm (3”) sk skip st(s)
wide in the widest place *…* *crochet following directions* as many times
(Size 2).
as indicated
Stitch guide______________________________________
slst – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw
yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on
hook.
sc – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo,
draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps
on hook.
dc – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo,
draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps*
twice.
dc3tog– *yo, insert hook in indicated st,
yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 3
times all in same st, yo, pull through all 4 lps
on hook.
tr – yo twice, insert hook in indicated st,
yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps*
three times.
FPtr2tog - * yo twice, insert hook from
front to back to front around the post of
indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull
through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through
all 3 lps on hook.
dec - insert the hook in indicated st, yo,
draw up a lp, insert the hook in next st, yo,
draw up a lp, yo, pull yarn through 3 lps on
the hook.
inc – crochet two sc in the same st: *insert
hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp,
yo and pull through both lps on hook*
twice.
Crab st (reverse sc) is always worked on
right side and in the opposite direction than
usual – attach yarn as required, 1 ch, *
insert hook into the next st on right if you
are right-handed (left st for lefties), yo, draw
up a lp, yo, draw through both lps on hook,
repeat from * across.

Important notes___________________________________
1. Reading the pattern. This mandala uses the overlay crochet technique. The whole
idea of overlay crochet is to create a base, a background with simple stitches (single
crochet stitches are generally used), and add long, complex stitches above. The only
important thing about overlay crochet is that the stitches of the background are
always crocheted in back loops only (unless otherwise stated in the pattern) while the
overlay stitches are added (“anchored”) in the front loops of stitches of underlying
rounds/rows.
This pattern contains written instructions and a lot of pictures showing where the
new yarn should be attached and to which sts the overlaid stitches should be added
(these sts (front loops) are marked by arrows). I would strongly recommend using
both kinds of instructions. It will be easier to read and understand the written
instructions after looking at the pictures.
2. Attaching new yarn. This mandala is crocheted in rounds with color changes on
every round (unless otherwise is stated in the pattern). To avoid unstable knots and
follow the stitch count it is very important to understand how new yarn should be
attached. It is attached by simply pulling a loop of new color in the indicated st and
making a ch, which will count as the first sc of the round (unless otherwise stated in
the pattern).
3. Crochet in back loops. As mentioned the stitches (sc) of the background are
always crocheted in back loops only (unless otherwise stated in the pattern) while the
overlaid long stitches are added (“anchored”) in the front loops of sts of previous
rounds. If you crochet the background sts through the FL you won’t be able to place
long stitches.
4. Finishing rounds (NJ). The rounds are finished with a needle join (NJ) in the
first st of the round (unless otherwise stated in the pattern). I use a hook instead of a
needle to join, it saves a lot of time. (I also use a hook to weave in all yarn tails).

2
 a. Fasten yarn off leaving a long tail approx. 5 cm (2 inches). Insert hook under
“V” (both loops) of the indicated st from the back to front, yo the yarn tail and
pull it through lps. (Pic. 1)
b. Insert hook under BL of the last stitch of the last rnd from back to front, yo
the yarn tail and pull it through BL. (Pic. 2)

Pic. 1 Pic. 2 Pic. 3

If you use this technique, you give the chain stitch at the beginning of the
round its BL and FL. (Pic. 3) Weave in the end and clip it close to the surface of the
piece.
5. Gauge. Overlaid stitches are used to crochet this mandala, that’s why it is very
important to have their gauge under control: they should be neither too loose nor too
tight, because this will lead to a deformation of the mandala’s shape. The right
tensioned overlay stitches should be made to the height of the working round. And
your mandala should stay flat!
6. Skipping sts. Overlaid stitches “hide” the stitches of background and this is the
reason, why sc of the working round should be skipped. But please note that the
number of overlaid stitches is NOT always the same as the number of skipped sts. It
helps to increase the quantity of sts on each round without making increases. You
should be very careful while following the instructions. A stitch count is included at
the end of instructions for every round to help you avoid mistakes.
7. Inserting hook. It might be tricky to understand how the hook should be inserted
while adding (“anchoring”) overlaid stitches.
a. If the overlaid stitch is anchored in the front loop of the st of some underlying
rnd, then the hook is inserted from bottom to top. (Pic. 4-6)

Pic. 4 Pic. 5 Pic. 6

b. If you make a front post stitch, the hook is always inserted from front to back and
then again to front around the post (vertical part) of the indicated st. In other
words, the hook will be inserted behind the post. (Pic. 7-9)

3
 Pic. 7 Pic. 8 Pic. 9
8. Crochet on right side. This pattern is written for right-handed people and all
rounds are worked on the right side.
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TIPS
 If you choose to crochet this bracelet in different colors than offered in this pattern,
you will find it easier if you make a color key before you start to work, and mark your
own colors on every round in the pattern.
 You can choose any yarn for this pattern. The thickness of your yarn will influence
the size of the finished bracelet. Stiffer yarns of contrasting colours are
recommended. Softer yarns or closely related colours might make the finished
bracelet look less vivid. But it does not mean that the result will not be great.

Color Key: C1 – Dark blue, C2 – Cream, C3 – Light blue.

Instructions______________________________________
Please, note that rnds 1-5 are the same for both Size 1 and Size 2.
Size 1___________________________________________
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1.
8 sc in magic ring, finish with a sl st in the 1st sc; don’t fasten off. (= 8 sts)

Pic. 10 Make a ring, yo Pic. 11 Draw up a lp, ch1 Pic. 12 Make 8 sc in magic
through ring ring, sl st in the 1st sc of the rnd.
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Rnd 2. Continue with yarn C1.
Work this rnd in BL.
ch 1 (doesn’t count as sc), *1 inc in next
st of rnd 1* 8 times, NJ in the 2nd sc of
the rnd after ch1. (= 16 sts)

4
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in the 1st sc of any inc (BL) of rnd 2.
*1 sc (the 1st st of the rnd will be a ch), 1 dc (FL) in the directly underlying
st of rnd 1, sk no sts on rnd 2, 1 sc* 8 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after
ch1. (= 24 sts)

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Rnd 4. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in any dc (BL) of rnd 3.
*2 sc (the 1st st of the rnd will be a ch), 1 dc3tog (FL) in a st of rnd 2 visible
between two dc of rnd 3, sk no sts on rnd 3, 1 sc* 8 times, NJ in the 1st sc of
the rnd after ch1. (= 32 sts)

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Rnd 5. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in the 1st st (BL) that comes just after
any dc3tog of rnd 4.
*1 sc (the 1st st of the rnd will be a ch), 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 FPtr2tog (work 1 FPtr
around each of two dc of rnd 3 lying to the right and to the left of
underlying dc3tog of rnd4), sk 1 st on rnd 4* 8 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the
rnd after ch1. (= 40 sts)

Note: there are always 2 FPtr made around each dc of rnd 3.

Your Mandala in Size 1 is now finished! Please, continue with the strap.

5
Size 2___________________________________________
Rnds 1-5. Same as for Size 1.
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in any FPrt2tog (BL) of rnd 5.
Note: dc3tog’s should be placed directly above dc’s of rnd 3.
*3 sc (the 1st st of the rnd will be a ch), 1 dc3tog (FL) in a st of rnd 4 visible
between two underlying FPtr of rnd 5, sk 1 st on rnd 5, 1 sc* 8 times, NJ in
the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 40 sts)

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Rnd 7. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in the 1st st (BL) that comes after any
dc3tog of rnd 6.
*1 sc (the 1st st of the rnd will be a ch), 1 inc, 2 sc, 1FPtr2tog (work 1 FPtr
around each of two underlying FPtr2tog of rnd 5), sk 1 st on rnd 6* 8
times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 48 sts)

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Rnd 8. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in the 1st st (BL) of rnd 7 that comes after
any FPtr2tog. Inc are made in the FPtr2tog’s of rnd 7.
*5 sc (the 1st st of the rnd will be a ch), 1 inc * 8 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the
rnd after ch1. (= 56 sts)

Your Mandala in Size 2 is now finished! Please, continue with strap.

6
Making Strap
I used yarn C1 to crochet a strap, but you can use any color that will suit best as a
background for your mandala. The strap is crocheted in rows, back and forth.
Start working on the wrong side of mandala. Attach yarn in any FPtr2tog of rnd 5 (size
1) or in 2nd st of any inc of rnd 8 (size 2). Work the first row in FL. And for the rest of the
strap – in BL only!

Size 1 Size 2
Row 1 -10. ch1 (doesn’t count as sc), Row 1 -14. ch1 (doesn’t count as sc), 13 sc.
10 sc. Turn piece. (= 10 sc) Please, Turn piece. (= 13 sc) Please, feel free to
feel free to crochet more rows if the crochet more rows if the strap seems short
strap seems short to you. to you.
Row 11. ch1 (doesn’t count as sc), 1 Row 15. ch1 (doesn’t count as sc), 1 sc, 1
sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc. Turn piece. dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc. Turn piece. (= 11 sc)
(= 8 sc) Row 16. ch1 (doesn’t count as sc), 1 sc, 1
Row 12. ch1 (doesn’t count as sc), 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc. Turn piece. (= 9 sc)
sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc. Turn piece. Row 17. ch1 (doesn’t count as sc), 1 sc, 1
(= 6 sc) dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc. Turn piece. (= 7 sc)
Row 13. ch1 (doesn’t count as sc), 1
Row 18. ch1 (doesn’t count as sc), 1 sc, 1
sc, 2 dec, 1 sc. (= 4 sc) Cut yarn,
dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc. (= 5 sc) Cut yarn, fasten
fasten off. off.
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Make another strap in the same way – on the opposite side of your mandala.
When both parts of your strap are ready, crochet around the whole bracelet with crab
stitches on the right side. Make crab stitches in BL on the open part of mandala. I used
yarn C1.
At the same time make a loop for your button on one edge of the strap. When you reach
central sc on the edge, chain 10 and make a crab st into the same stitch of the edge,
forming a loop. Continue with crab sts until the end, finish with a slst in the first st of
this rnd, cut the yarn and fasten off. Sew a button on the other edge of the strap.
Note: I made ch 8 (size 1) and ch10 (size 2) for my loop but you may want to make it
bigger, or smaller.

Your Bloomy Bracelet is now finished!

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Copyright 2015 – LillaBjörnCrochet. All rights reserved.
This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. You
can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always
note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!