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vi CONTENTS

CHAPTER 7 Guests’ Needs 272


Golf-Based Resorts: Managing Defining Goals and Objectives 275
the Operation 185 Activity and Cluster Analysis 276
Program Areas 283
Introduction 186
Golf Resorts 186 Program Planning 284
Golfers 186 Program Evaluation 291
Market Segments 187
CHAPTER 11
Operating Characteristics 192
Tournaments and Events 195 Resort Operations: The Importance
Pro Shop 199 of Retail 294
Golf Cart Fleet 202 Introduction 295
Use of Technology 207 Tourist Shopping 295
Renovation Plan 209 Resort Retail 300
Layout and Design 301
CHAPTER 8 Merchandising 303
Resort Operations: The Importance Getting Your Message Noticed 306
of Recreational Amenities 215 Operations 308
Introduction 216 Customer Segments 310
The Development Process 216 Profit Ratios 312
Developing an Amenity Strategy 218
CHAPTER 12
Community Management Structures 223
Management and Operations 226 Spas, Pools, and Indoor Waterparks 318
Introduction 319
CHAPTER 9 Development of Spas 319
The Uniqueness of Timeshare Resort Layout and Design 326
Operations 233 Treatments 328
Introduction 234 Water Therapy 331
Timeshare Guests/Owners 234 Client Preparation 337
Activities 236 Room Setup 337
Characteristics of Timeshares 236 Marketing 338
Marketing the Timeshare Product 238 Trends 339
Operations 242 Swimming Pools 339
Reservations and the Front Desk 244 Waterparks 342
Housekeeping 247
Maintenance and Engineering 249 CHAPTER 13
Accounting and Finance 254 Specialty Resorts 351
Delivering Quality Service 255 Introduction 352
Nature-Based Environmental
CHAPTER 10
Activities 352
Resort Operation: The Importance Ecotourism 352
of Guest Activities 267 Ecolodges 353
Introduction 268 Adventure 355
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Contents vii

Adventure Activites in America 358 From Casinos to Resorts 419


Adventure Tourism Development Market 423
Index 365 Organizational Structure 431
Staffing 433
CHAPTER 14 Control 435
Cruise Ships: Floating Resorts 369 Casino Cage, Credit,
and Collections 436
Introduction 370
Slot Management 438
Marketing the Cruise Product 375
Table Game Operations 444
Staffing the Cruise Ship 387
Casino Accounting 446
Managing the Hotel Department 391
Player Rating Systems 447
Managing Food and Beverage 394
Table Game Hold as a Management
Managing Facilities 396
Tool 452
Health, Safety, and Security 399
Casino Marketing 454
Managing the Operation 403
Cruise Destinations 406 Index 465

CHAPTER 15
Casinos 417
Introduction 418
The U.S. Gaming Market 418
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FOREWORD

Between the two of us, we have known Bob Mill for 15 years. That’s a fair number of
years. During that time, we have come to know him as a consummate teacher of and
researcher on the art of resort management and operation. The way Bob explains
the arcana of our industry is a skill that few have. His observations are honest,
refreshing, and, dare we say, exciting, in a way that only someone intimately familiar
and unabashedly in love with our industry can make them. In short, we are honored
to offer this overview of what we both believe to be the finest book on resort
management and operation in print today.
The beauty of Bob’s book, and what makes it remarkable reading for both of us,
is that although we are separated by 30 years of industry experience, we have found
this latest edition to reach out generationally and deliver a definitive look at resort
management and operation that speaks personally to each of us. That’s quite an
accomplishment.
With this Resorts: Management and Operation, Third Edition—which, by
the way, is a true indicator of the book’s value to our industry and those who have
the good fortune to enter it—Bob has again improved and updated his seminal look
at the resort industry. His chapter-by-chapter updates deserve high marks for
assuring that this text remains not only relevant but also cutting-edge.
Throughout this edition, Bob has added sidebars on careers to each chapter.
And in almost every chapter, he has updated the data.
More specifically, Bob has added a major section on resort management and
operation in the 21st century; and additional material on timeshares, destination
clubs, sustainable development, four-season ski areas, and the move to establish
base villages where the emphasis moves from ski operations to real estate, global
water conservation strategies, environmental certifications, the emerging market
segments of women and minorities, resort communities, quality service, interna-
tional shopping festivals, sales analysis, revenue management, performance metrics
and trends, waterpark financing, ecotourism, an adventure development index, and
a new section on China (Macau).
Thankfully, all the chapters and information that made the first two editions of
Resorts: Management and Operation such a success still form the backbone
of Bob’s definitive book. In our positions as CEO and president of Hershey
Entertainment and Resorts, Hershey, Pennsylvania, and senior resort manager,
Hyatt Windward Pointe, Key West, Florida, we’re ever more aware of the importance
of the family to the resort business. It’s not just about mom and dad going to golf
school at a resort; it’s about the whole family doing it together. It’s not just about
mom and dad enjoying a five-star or four-diamond resort experience; it’s about the
whole family creating memories together that will last a lifetime. Bob’s book
includes a strong focus on the role of these entertainments in creating the type
of reality that customers want to perceive while they are on holiday.
This intense focus on the resort industry is important because no word in the
English language evokes the immediate and electric response of the word ‘‘resort.’’
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x FOREWORD

For an overworked, underrested, and mega-stressed populace, a week at a resort is


often seen as ‘‘the answer.’’ It is salvation. It is the key to everything that ails,
exhausts, and maddens us. The mantra of our time seems to be, ‘‘I don’t have any
problem that two weeks of sun and fun won’t solve!’’ This visceral response to the
word resort is the product of personal experience, lavish color photographs that
leap from the pages of travel magazines, and gloating post-vacation reports from
coworkers who return from ‘‘ten days in heaven.’’ Each of these sales, marketing,
and public relations hits gives us a glimpse of the public face of the resort
experience. And they make us yearn to be a part of it.
As current and future resort industry professionals, however, we can’t be satisfied
with the public facade. We have to dig deeper. To be successful, we have to be a little
like Toto who pulled back the curtain and unmasked the secret of the Wizard of Oz.
We, too, need to look behind the scenes to get a clear understanding of what makes a
resort . . . well, a resort. We must study the sometimes overwhelming details, facts,
figures, data, particulars, minutiae, fine points, and yes, even the sweat that produce
the awesome resort experiences the world so eagerly anticipates.
It is no secret that until the first edition of this book was published over ten
years ago, the detailed study of the resort was not possible. There was no clear,
comprehensive guide to understanding the myriad components of the modern
resort. With the advent of Resorts: Management and Operation, Third Edition,
this hole in the hotel, restaurant, and tourism management curriculum is filled.
We believe that hotel management and resort management are two entirely
different industries. Ensuring that hotel operations run like clockwork, in a clean,
carefree, and visually stunning environment, is just the beginning of resort respon-
sibilities. As Bob’s illuminating text clearly details, the modern resort is also
responsible for meeting the various and unique needs of the widest variety of
vacationing guest: golfers, boaters, skiers, snowboarders, adventure travelers,
climbers, gamblers, backpackers, and cruise aficionados, at the least. Golf, in
particular, is an absolute must for many resorts and, potentially, creates two seasons
for the winter resort. Multiple sales and marketing programs must be developed that
appeal to each of these market segments; retail shops must be built to provide
merchandise specific to each group; guest activity programming must be developed
to appeal to each sex separately, together, and with one eye keenly focused on age
and cultural differences. And don’t forget children. Children must have their own
planned activities each and every day. What about spas? In our experience, a true
resort offers a complete spa—not just a hot tub, treadmills, and a weight rack. A spa
offers a wide variety of treatments in gracious surroundings, including exfoliation,
spot and full body treatments, water therapy, massage, aromatherapy, wet rooms,
dry rooms, and combinations. The list of resort ‘‘musts’’ goes on and on and on.
The Third Edition of Resorts: Management and Operation addresses
each of these subjects in even more detail and with more data. If you are a developer
considering the construction or purchase of a resort, this text gives you a roadmap
for much of what your new facility will have to encompass. If you currently manage a
resort, this book is a confirmation of the thousand-and-one things you should be
doing to ensure the growth and competitive position of your property. And, if you
are in college—with your entire life ahead of you—this text is an excellent window
into the nuts-and-bolts, workaday world you may soon join.
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Foreword xi

In this Third Edition, Bob keeps the three sections that composed his earlier
editions: Recreational Facilities, Lodging/Food and Beverage, and Guest Activities.
As in the previous edition, segments on marketing, operations, guest activity
programming, design, and dealing with the future are not separate chapters, but
are incorporated throughout other chapters so that readers can more easily see how
each of these activities impacts other topics.
A consistent theme is the impact of these three elements on resort operations.
There is a separate chapter on recreational amenities, guest activities, the unique-
ness of resorts, and the importance of retail shopping opportunities. The chapter on
spas includes pools and indoor waterparks. Three types of resorts (mountain-based,
beach, and golf/tennis) are each given two chapters. And there is a strong emphasis
on sustainability issues in the chapters dealing with management—especially as it
concerns mountain and beach resorts.
There are chapters on cruise ships, specialty resorts, and, in particular, casinos.
With the advent of ‘‘racinos’’—racetracks that have been granted the opportunity to
add slot machines—casinos on Indian reservations, and Class-3 casinos, this chapter
is a welcome addition to the resort education milieu.
Regardless of who you are, you are either in or entering one of the great
professions of the world. Resort management is often exhilarating. It is often
rewarding. It is always hard work. But, frankly (don’t tell our boards of directors),
even the hard work is a lot of fun! In no other service industry can a group of like-
minded individuals have such a profound impact on the physical and emotional
wellbeing of their customers. We are guides through a world of fantasy, a world that
soothes rattled nerves, calms pounding hearts, and envelops weary bodies in a
delicious cocoon of heightened senses.
The challenge for our industry is to consistently deliver these unique experiences at
a level that is beyond guest expectations. Our reward is . . . well, our reward is obvious.
It is in the warm greeting from generations of the same family who return to our resorts
year after year. It is in the look of absolute contentment as a guest settles in to a good
book while surrounded by gardens of magnolias, begonias, and orchids . . . or a crystal-
blue ocean . . . or both. And it is in the wide-eyed excitement of a guest who regales an
audience with stories about a hole-in-one or ‘‘the one that got away.’’
The Third Edition of Bob Mill’s Resorts: Management and Operation is
the first step in transforming each of these fantasies into breathtaking reality. We
enthusiastically invite you to take this step and join us in the most exciting industry
on earth.
TED J. KLEISNER
Chief Executive Officer
Hershey Entertainment & Resorts, Inc.
Hershey, Pennsylvania

RANDALL Z. WILLIAMS
Senior Resort Manager
Hyatt Windward Pointe
Key West, Florida
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PREFACE

Resorts: Management and Operation, Third Edition, is the product of almost


30 years of thought, analysis, and research in the field of resort management. As I
moved from teaching in a business-based hotel school into a Department of Park
and Recreation Resources (both at Michigan State University), I developed the
conviction that an academic program in resort management should be a blend of
information from these two academic areas. Resorts are, in fact, a combination of
three elements:

1. Recreational attractions or amenities that draw guests to the facility


2. Housing and food and beverage services that cater to people away from home
3. Activities to occupy guests during their stay

The traditional hotel school deals very effectively with the second element.
Departments of Park and Recreation Resources have traditionally dealt with the first
and third elements within the context of public rather than private recreation.

FEATURES AND APPROACH


Resorts: Management and Operation, Third Edition is written from a
business viewpoint, yet takes into account the unique structure of resorts. Resort
managers in ski areas, for example, should know something about the mountain
upon which their resort depends. They should know the process by which a
virgin mountain is transformed into a viable ski area. They need to be aware of
how the capacity of the mountain is determined. They are not, and this book will
not turn them into, developers and planners. They do, however, need to know
enough about planning and development to communicate effectively with these
specialists.
After an introductory chapter, Resorts: Management and Operation is
divided into three sections. Each section gives a philosophical basis for the inclusion
of the subsequent principles and practices. The first section covers major types of
resorts: those that are mountain-based, beach-based, and golf/tennis-based. Two
chapters are devoted to each of the various resort types.
The first chapters on each resort type focus on development issues, with the
impact on operations noted throughout. Attention is given to the relationship
between the natural resource base and the recreational facilities developed from
that base. The belief is that it is both environmentally conscious and business-smart
to develop facilities in such a way that the integrity of the natural base is maintained.
This is, after all, the major reason guests visit. Management is doing nothing more
than protecting its competitive differential advantage.
The second chapter on each resort type deals with guest profiles and manage-
ment issues. There is an emphasis on sustainability issues in the chapters dealing
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xiv PREFACE

with management—especially mountain (Chapter 3) and beach (Chapter 4).


Chapter 3 has an extensive section on summer activities in the mountains.
The second section of the text highlights what makes managing a resort
different from managing a ‘‘regular’’ hotel. There are separate chapters on resort
operations, recreational amenities, guest activities, and retail.
The final section features a newly expanded chapter on spas, pools, and indoor
waterparks, along with individual chapters on specialty resorts (Chapter 13), cruise
ships (Chapter 14), and casinos (Chapter 15), reflecting the importance of these
types of properties.
The sidebars are an important feature throughout the book. Titled Quick
Getaways, they bring the text to life with practical examples of the principles
espoused in the book. Provocative questions are intended to interest readers in
inserting their own points of view into the book.

NEW TO THIS EDITION


Resorts: Management and Operation, Third Edition has several new features:

 New Quick Getaways have been added to most chapters on the topic of
careers.
 Chapter 1 now features a major section on the twenty-first century together
with additional material on timeshare and destination clubs.
 Chapter 2 includes increased coverage on the important topic of sustainable
development.
 Chapter 3 has more material on four-season ski areas and increased
coverage of the movement to establish base villages where the emphasis
moves from ski operations to real estate.
 Chapter 5 includes a major update of the material on beaches and islands,
covering scuba, romance-related, boaters, and U.S. attempts to improve the
environmental impacts at beaches and marinas.
 Chapter 6 adds sections on water conservation strategies worldwide,
environmental certification, and trends.
 Chapter 7 updates information on golfer characteristics while adding
sections on the emerging market segments of women and minorities.
 Chapter 8 adds a section on resort communities.
 Chapter 9 includes an added section on quality service.
 Chapter 11 has new information on international shopping festivals as well
as a major section on operations focusing on sales analysis.
 Chapter 12 adds major sections on operations: specifically revenue manage-
ment, operating like a hotel, performance metrics and trends, in addition to
increased material on waterpark financing.
 Chapter 13 has been reoriented toward adventure in resorts rather than
adventure travel and now features increased coverage of ecotourism and
a new section on adventure development index.
 Finally, Chapter 15, discussing casinos, has added sections on the growing
influence of gambling and casinos in Macau, China.
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Preface xv

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
An Instructor’s Manual (ISBN: 978-1-118-15222-5) is available for instructors
teaching this course. It contains the learning objectives for each chapter along
with the corresponding major lecture points. An electronic version of the Instruc-
tor’s Manual, along with the PowerPoint Lecture Slides to accompany this
textbook, are also available for download to qualified adopters from the publisher at
www.wiley.com/college/mill.
The Test Bank has been specifically formatted for Respondus, an easy-to-use
software program for creating and managing exams that can be printed to paper or
published directly to Blackboard, WebCT, Desire2Learn, eCollege, ANGEL, and
other eLearning systems. Instructors who adopt Resorts: Management and
Operation, Third Edition can download the Test Bank files for free.
The book’s companion site (www.wiley.com/college/mill) provides readers
with additional resources as well as enables instructors to download the electronic
files for the Instructor’s Manual, PowerPoint Presentations, Test Bank, and
Respondus Test Bank.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I am grateful to the faculty of the Department of Park and Recreation Resources at
Michigan State University for exposing me to the specialized knowledge going into
managing resorts that depend on the natural resource base for their success. In addition,
they provided the foundation of the material on guest activity programming.
The administration at the Daniels College of Business in general and the
Knoebel School of Hospitality Management in particular have always been support-
ive of my research and writing activities.
Thanks to Wiley and, in particular, Mary Cassells and Jenni Lee, who saw
potential in this effort and provided guidance and encouragement throughout the
entire process. This Third Edition is all the better for the detailed, helpful, and
insightful reviews. The following people generously took the time to provide
thoughtful comments and suggestions, the vast majority of which are incorporated
into the book to make it an improved text. They are:

Linda Beitz, Guilford Technical Community College


Shane C. Blum, Texas Tech University
Percival Darby, Florida International University
Donald Getz, University of Calgary
Andrew Holdnak, University of West Florida
Thomas Jones, University of Nevada Las Vegas
Felicia Lui, Vancouver Premier College
Melih Madanoglu, Florida Gulf Coast University
Maria McConnell, Lorain County Community College
Brenda Montgomery, Arkansas Tech University
John L. Pelletier, Saunders School of Hotel Management, Newbury College
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xvi PREFACE

It has been a joy to have the research assistance of wonderful students in the
Knoebel School to assist me in my efforts: McKenna Hall, Alana O’Grady, Claudia
Alvarado Cruz, Samuel Lopez, Caitlin Lorenz, Monica Parker, Elizabeth Morrissey,
Mary Cochrane, and Alyssa Leslie. These are truly exciting young people to be
around. I know they will be successful in anything they decide to do in the future. I,
of course, take full responsibility for any errors throughout.

ROBERT CHRISTIE MILL, PH.D.


School of Hotel, Restaurant, and Tourism Management
Daniels College of Business
University of Denver
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Chapter 1
RESORTS: AN INTRODUCTION

LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Identify the major factors influencing the development of the resort industry.
2. Identify the various ways resorts can be classified.
3. Place different types of resort offerings on a time-equity continuum.

INTRODUCTION Setting and Primary Amenities


Roman Empire Residential and Lodging Properties
Europe Mixed-Use Developments
North America SUMMARY
Lessons WEB RESOURCES
TYPES OF RESORTS ENDNOTES
Proximity to Primary Market
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2 CHAPTER 1 Resorts: An Introduction

INTRODUCTION
To understand where the resort industry is today, it is important to consider how
resorts have evolved through the ages. A historical perspective leads to a picture of
the modern types of resorts.

HISTORY OF RESORTS1
The sole purpose of a resort, in the classic sense, is to afford its users a place
for escape or restoration from the world of work and daily care.
—CHUCK Y. GEE
Resort Development and Management

Roman Empire
Prior to the eighteenth century, pleasure travel was not available to the masses. Lack
of time and money combined with poor transportation and a general lack of
facilities to make travel something that one had to do rather than wanted to do.
However, the roots of the resort concept can be traced to the Romans.
Extending from the public baths, resorts were initially built in and around Rome
before being developed for the pleasure of Roman legionnaires and consuls
throughout the empire—from the coast of North Africa to Greece and Turkey,
from southern Germany to St. Moritz in Switzerland, and on through England. In fact,
Bath in England still has relics dating to A.D. 54, when it was known as Aquae Sulis.
The first baths, introduced in the second century B.C., were small and modestly
furnished. Men were separated from women. Later, the baths became integrated,
larger, and more ornate. They served both health and social purposes. The public
bath allowed for relaxation, while the sale of food and drink on the premises
encouraged social interaction. A typical structure consisted of an atrium surrounded
by recreational and sporting amenities, restaurants, rooms, and shops.
Outside the major centers of population, baths were located by mineral springs,
which were known for their restorative powers. The Greeks had earlier associated
mineral springs with the gods and had built holy wells and altars on the sites. Roman
legions appropriated these sites for the construction of baths.
The Roman Empire began to decline at the beginning of the fifth century A.D.
Social life at the English resorts languished until the seventeenth century, when it
was refueled by improvements in roads and the introduction of the stagecoach.

Europe
In A.D. 1326, Colin le Loup, a Belgian ironmaster, was cured of a long-term illness by
ge. As thanks, he developed a shelter there to
the iron-rich waters of a spring near Lie
welcome others. The popularity of the area grew so much it was renamed Spa,
meaning fountain.
Back in England, King Charles II restored the monarchy in 1660 after years of
Puritan rule. He spent time at the popular resorts of the day—Bath, Tunbridge Wells,
and Harrogate. Thus began a long history of attractions being popularized by the rich
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Introduction 3

A Roman bath in Bath, England.


Courtesy Peter Adams/Digital Vision

and famous, a tradition that continues today. In other parts of the world, royalty
continues to be the trendsetters, while in North America, stars of popular culture
determine the ‘‘in’’ places. There is an old saying in tourism that mass follows class.
Destinations are initially made popular by a small band of influential people. This puts
the place on the map. Seeking to emulate this group, others are attracted to the location.
A second factor leading to the popularity of the spas was the endorsement of the
medical profession. The waters of Tunbridge Wells, for example, were promoted as an
aphrodisiac. Likewise, bathing in and even drinking salt water was regarded as a cure
for numerous diseases and helped promote seaside resorts. Popular activities at the
baths included gambling, dancing, and other forms of entertainment, including
concerts, grand parades, and the pump room, where health-seekers ‘‘took the waters.’’
The rise in popularity of the spas created a demand on the part of the affluent for
more private facilities. This led directly to the development of the Swiss resort
industry. Before railroads were built, guests traveled long distances over poor roads
to arrive at their destination. Having spent so much time and effort in reaching the
spa, they wanted to spend a long time—up to two months—to get their money’s
worth. This led to the development of facilities more extensive than those offered by
a modest inn. In Zurich, the most famous resort was the Hotel Baur au Lac, opened
by Johannes Baur in 1844. After several expansions, the hotel was completely rebuilt
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4 CHAPTER 1 Resorts: An Introduction

with an innovative design that still is used today. While all other hotels faced the
town, Baur built the new resort facing Lake Lucerne. He became the first developer
to recognize the benefit of a scenic view.
In the early 1800s, Switzerland was known as a summer resort. However, in 1860,
several English visitors were convinced to stay on for the winter. Skating was already
a favorite activity. In Switzerland, the guests were introduced to skiing and tobog-
ganing. While the initial attraction was the promise of health cures, the popularity of
the resorts was due more to the social activities organized by management. One
example was the Bains de Monaco, renamed Le Mont Charles (Monte Carlo) in 1863.
Operating in the winter months when traditional summer resorts were closed, it
offered guests year-round gambling. While the health spa was the overt attraction,
the real source of the resort’s success was the gambling.

North America
The earliest resorts in the United States were developed in the East and, as in Europe,
were established around spas. Resort hotels were opened in Virginia, New York, and
West Virginia in the eighteenth century. At approximately the same time, the seaside
resort became popular. Examples include Long Branch, New Jersey, and Newport,
Rhode Island. The latter was a commercial port where molasses was distilled into
rum, which was then traded for slaves from Africa. When the slave trade was
abolished at the end of the eighteenth century, the town turned to tourism for its
economic future. Wealthy southerners ventured north to escape the heat and
malaria of South Carolina in the summer.

Amenities
Early hotels were rather barren in terms of amenities. The forerunner of many
upgraded facilities to be later found in resort hotels was not a resort hotel itself. The
Tremont Hotel in Boston, built in 1829, is credited with introducing a number of
innovations in service, including:

 elegant marble
 carved walnut furniture in private rooms
 a pitcher and bowl and free cake of soap in each guestroom
 gaslight instead of candles
 French cuisine and silver table service that included forks
 bellboys to handle guest luggage
 an ‘‘annunciator’’—the forerunner of the room telephone

Civil War
The American Civil War changed the nature of many Eastern resorts. Saratoga
Springs, New York, had long catered to southern gentlemen who brought their
horses (and their slaves) with them to race while they took the waters. As the
popularity of the springs declined, the resort focused on its social activities. A new
racetrack was built, but ultimately it could not compete with the higher purses at
Newport and Monmouth Park in Long Branch, New Jersey. The resort turned to
gambling and drew some interesting and some notorious characters until the early
twentieth century, when reformists took their toll.
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Introduction 5

White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, changed too after the war. A shortage of
eligible men and a surplus of eligible women led the resort to position itself as a
place to find a worthy husband. The addition of a railroad line through the town in
1868 gave it a leg up on the competition. Not until 1891 was a spur extended into Hot
Springs, enabling The Homestead to compete successfully with the Greenbrier of
White Sulphur Springs, as it does to this day.

Resort Cities
America’s first resort city was Atlantic City. Developed in the late 1800s, it attracted
the middle as well as the upper classes. It built the first boardwalk to accommodate
those seeking the health benefits of sunshine and fresh air, the first amusement pier
that extended over the Atlantic, and the Observation Roundabout—later renamed
the Ferris wheel. The railroad brought day trippers; other guests stayed for the season
in boardinghouses and resort hotels. Today, buses bring day gamblers from New
York City and other metropolitan areas.

The Twentieth Century


The typical resort hotel in North America at the beginning of the twentieth century was
a summer operation. Improvements in transportation changed the structure of resorts.

The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, is a traditional resort.


Courtesy The Greenbrier
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6 CHAPTER 1 Resorts: An Introduction

The railroads were instrumental in opening up areas of the country that were
previously inaccessible. Both railroads and resorts targeted the relatively few, very
wealthy individuals who, before the enactment of a federal income tax, had a great
deal of disposable income.
Winter resorts did not become popular until the development of the automo-
bile, which provided access to areas of the country suitable for winter vacations.
California, in contrast, was the first area to develop as a warm winter resort, appe-
aling to those looking to escape the winter cold. Florida, as a warm winter resort, was
developed later and more slowly. There, Henry Flagler saw the importance of
transportation in opening up new destinations and was instrumental in laying
railroad tracks to the south of the state. By 1920, Florida had surpassed California
in popularity as a winter retreat for North Americans.
The economy had barely climbed back from the stock market crash of 1929
when the Second World War erupted. Resort development was put on hold. The end
of rationing after the war precipitated a period of economic prosperity. Leisure
travel was available to a much broader segment of the population. The development
of the interstate highway system in the 1950s gave the average American great
mobility. The development of Disneyland in California in 1955 was followed by
numerous other theme parks in the 1960s and 1970s. Disney World opened in 1971 in
Florida and has set the standard for destination family resorts.
In the mid-1950s, the development of jet travel opened up, for North Americans,
areas of Europe and the Pacific that were previously inaccessible. Air travel was still
costly, however, and relatively few could afford it.
The early 1960s saw the development of the four-season resort. Realizing the risk
involved in relying for business on one season of the year, hotels sought to develop
year-round attractions. The Homestead added skiing in 1959, while resorts in
Colorado extended their season by developing golf and tennis packages and
summer music festivals. Others went after group business by constructing conven-
tion centers. It can be argued that the shift to conference business is the most
significant economic trend in resorts in the past 20 years. In fact, for most large
resorts, between 45 and 70 percent of occupancy comes from group business.
Resorts are attractive to corporate meeting planners because the resort is self-
contained. Attendees do not have to leave the premises and can enjoy various
recreational activities as a break from meetings.
Planned resort communities—large-scale communities with a variety of accom-
modation options, recreational facilities, and infrastructure—like Sea Pines Planta-
tion on Hilton Head Island in South Carolina and Costa Esmeralda on the island of
Sardinia in the Mediterranean have also emerged in recent years.
The past decade has seen a new type of resort entering the marketplace—
mega-resorts or family resorts. These properties are not necessarily the largest of
resorts. Rather, they are properties that have upscale amenities on-site such as a
spa, fitness center, shopping, recreational activities, and a fun nightlife. Exam-
ples include the Hyatt Regency Waikaloa in Hawaii and the Disney and Hyatt
Grand Cypress hotels in Orlando, Florida. Because of the high cost of amenities
provided and the often fantasy themes that are part of the resort experience, the
properties require high room rates and occupancies to be financially viable.
C01 05/26/2011 14:51:23 Page 7

Introduction 7

In contrast to the large resort hotel is the small boutique resort hotel. Targeting the
high-end market and emphasizing service, quality, and privacy, these properties—such
as the Ventana Inn in Big Sur, California—have a strong focus on lodging and related
amenities and offer limited shopping and residential development.
In Eastern Europe, Japan, and some parts of Western Europe, social tourism
contributed to resort development. Social tourism involves offering employees
vacations that are wholly or partially subsidized. While government and unions
subsidize much of the social tourism in Eastern Europe, the equivalent in Japan is
the corporate resort that is owned and operated by a major company to provide
vacations for its white-collar workers. A common alternative in Western Europe is

Quick Getaway 1.1

Consumer Trends That Will Impact Luxury


Shared Ownership
There are indications that the market for luxuries Having a short satisfaction span, people will
will increase. While individuals may not have the want to own for a short period of time rather
means to wholly own a particular item, one pos- than having complete 100 percent ownership.
sibility is fractional ownership—several individu-  Eco-Friendly and Green: Growing concern
als jointly owning an asset and, consequently, over the environment will be seen in an
having use of that asset for part of the year. increase in ‘‘green buildings, solar power,
Here are some signs that, in a growing econ- water conservation, landscaping, energy effi-
omy, indicate the growth of this movement: ciency, and hybrid car services.’’
 Status Symbols: As the number of high-net-  Brand Assets: More companies are develop-
worth individuals grows, especially in the ing their brand. Customers can now buy hotel-
BRIC countries of Brazil, Russia, India, and company-branded furniture and bedding.
China, owning a luxury item such as a resi- For the affluent fractional customer, brand
dence club becomes a status symbol. We differentiation will come down to ‘‘innovative
might expect to see a sales approach that design and extraordinary service that delivers
moves from emphasizing features and bene- well beyond their expectations.’’
fits to a relationship-based sales approach that
focuses on the emotions of the buyer. Source: Hefler, Lawrence. ‘‘Consumer Trends That Will
 Time—The New Currency: As income in- Impact Luxury Shared Ownership in 2008,’’ Developments
creases, time becomes (relatively) more (March 2008), 42–43.
important. Fractional marketing efforts can
emphasize how the experience will provide DISCUSSION QUESTION:
memories that will not be forgotten over time. This article was written in 2008—prior to the recent
 Unfixed Theme: As people shift from having recession. Will these trends come to pass as the econ-
physical goods to collecting experiences, they omy improves, or have we changed our consumption
find that using or sharing is better than owning. patterns forever?
C01 05/26/2011 14:51:23 Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 Resorts: An Introduction

the holiday fund. Equal contributions are made by the employee, the company, and
the government to provide funds that employees use for vacation travel.

The Twenty-First Century


What will the future bring? In the opinion of one industry expert:2

 Lodging, recreation, and entertainment concepts are merging. In urban areas,


hotels, recreation entertainment, sporting activities, shopping, convention
centers, and large-scale attractions are being developed in mixed-user resort
destination complexes. In rural areas, hotels and indoor-outdoor waterparks
are being combined with recreational facilities as well as various vacation-
home developments.
 Long weekends are replacing long vacations. Rising gas prices combined with
more pressure to be available at work are combining with the problems of
dual-income couples in coordinating schedules to push an increase in long-
weekend vacations in lieu of the traditional longer holiday.
 Increased popularity of multi generational family gatherings. When many
families live in different states, getting together with family is a way to share.
 More multi use resort destinations. Resort operators are integrating demand
generators—meeting facilities, shopping, recreation, and entertainment—into
projects.
 Resort waterparks are growing and getting bigger (see Chapter 12). Waterparks
are a small but rapidly expanding segment of the industry that can fill empty
rooms at higher rates than properties without this feature.
 Adventure sports are going mainstream. Most activities that involve nature are
seasonal. More novices as well as enthusiasts are looking for simulators to
improve their performance.
 Movement from natural to man-made facilities. This might involve golf
simulators at resorts, artificial rock walls, and even artificial skating surfaces
and wave-generating equipment.
 Every outdoor sport will have an indoor version. Because of the difficulties
involved in getting away from work at the prime seasonal time to enjoy
outdoor activities, indoor alternatives are being developed. There are 40 snow
domes worldwide, most of them in Europe and Asia.
 New structures and enclosures cover large spaces affordably. From Tropical
Islands in Germany, a 700,000-square-foot indoor waterpark resort, to Ocean
Dome in Japan, a three-football-field-sized facility with a fully retractable roof,
the effect of weather is being minimized.

Lessons
Four things can be learned from a brief review of the history of resorts:

1. The history of transportation has, to a large extent, determined where, when,


and what types of resorts have evolved.
2. The desire for pleasure travel is deep-rooted.
C01 05/26/2011 14:51:24 Page 9

Types of Resorts 9

3. Resorts began as seasonal operations. To minimize the risk of relying on one


season of the year, resorts developed year-round attractions and appealed to
the group market.
4. Resorts develop through life cycles. To be successful, resorts have had to
adapt to changes in transportation, consumer tastes, demographics, and
competition.

TYPES OF RESORTS

Resort communities work best when they are not 100 percent resort but have
a mix of full- and part-time residents. Full-time residents provide customers for
the doctors, the lawyers, and the restaurants year round. [This] enables the
community to provide a myriad of services that would not be possible with
just seasonal residents.
—CHARLES E. FRASER
Founder and Chair, Sea Pines Company

Resorts can be characterized in terms of:

 Proximity to primary market


 Setting and primary amenities
 Mix of residential and lodging properties3

Proximity to Primary Market


Resorts are either destination resorts or nondestination resorts. The difference
depends on how far the resort is from its primary market; how visitors reach the
resort; and the patterns of stay—how many times a guest visits, how long the stay is,
and the quality of the setting. Destination resorts tend to be at least several hundred
miles from the market. Visitors tend to fly rather than drive there and visit once a year
for one to two weeks. Further, the resorts are located at places attractive enough to
entice people to travel large distances to get there.
Nondestination resorts tend to be within a two- to three-hour drive of the
primary market. Guests arrive by car, visit more frequently, and stay three to four
days each time. As a result, destination resorts have a higher ratio of hotel rooms to
second homes than do regional resorts. Within these generalities, it should be
mentioned that a resort may fit into both categories. Colorado resorts, for example,
draw visitors from Denver several times over the season while also attracting people
from Europe for a once-a-season experience.

Setting and Primary Amenities


Visitors categorize resorts by their location and amenities. Defined thus, resorts can
be either ocean resorts, lake/river resorts, mountain/ski resorts, or golf resorts.4
Ocean resorts depend on the quality and extent of their beaches, views, climate, and
water-sports activities. Lake/river resorts obviously rely on water but rely even more
on the recreational activities that are water-oriented than do ocean resorts. They are
C01 05/26/2011 14:51:24 Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 Resorts: An Introduction

more likely to be located several hours by auto from the resident’s home and to be
marketed as second-home communities. Mountain/ski resorts have, in recent years,
moved away from their traditional reliance on the winter season to become four-
season resorts. Capitalizing on their spa heritage, many are using health as their
theme. Mountain resorts in the West tend to be destination resorts, while those in the
Midwest and Northeast, because of their proximity to large population bases, tend to
be regional in scope.
The increased popularity of golf has helped spawn an increase in the number of
resort properties themed around this activity. Growth is also a function of supply. As
the number of waterfront locations expanded, fewer sites associated with water
were available. As a result, golf-course resort developments have sprung up in
Florida, North Carolina, and southern California. They are also popular in desert
settings, which, lacking water, rely on scenery, climate, and golf to attract visitors.
Other resorts rely on specialized amenities, including tennis, equestrian facilities,
ranches, health, natural attractions, sporting expeditions, and entertainment.

Residential and Lodging Properties


Real estate people like to categorize resorts based on the type and mix of residential
lodging facilities. There are four specific parts to what is being called the hybrid
lodging or alternative lodging sector:5

1. Traditional lodging
2. Timeshare or vacation ownership
3. Condominium hotels
4. Destination clubs

Traditional Lodging
The resort hotel is the most common form of resort development. It requires a relatively
modest financial investment. The guest at a traditional hotel selects the property on the
basis of convenience. For the business traveler, convenience might mean that the hotel
is close to the highway or to the businesses to be visited. For the leisure traveler,
convenience translates into proximity to the beach or other tourist attractions. The
resort hotel guest, on the other hand, visits the development simply for relaxation. A
growing number of resort hotels, however, are seeking to attract the businessperson,
usually as part of a conference or meeting. The company holding a business meeting in
a self-contained resort setting keeps the outside distractions of a city to a minimum
while utilizing the recuperative effects of recreation to improve business productivity.
Resort hotels differ from their commercial counterparts in other ways. They are
located in areas that take advantage of attractive natural features, and they offer
more amenities, either on site or with easy access to off-site facilities. They can range
from as few as five rooms to as many as 1,500 or more. Facilities under 25 rooms are
independently owned and managed guesthouses, bed-and-breakfasts, inns, cabins,
or motel-type properties. They tend to be located in rural areas and cater to short-
stay guests.
Facilities in the 25- to 125-room range can include properties from the above
group as well as small specialty resorts. Many are called lodges and cater to hikers,
C01 05/26/2011 14:51:24 Page 11

Types of Resorts 11

Kiawah Island.
Photo courtesy of the author

hunters, and skiers. Part of this category is the growing number of boutique resort
hotels that cater to a small, upscale segment of the market. These are often located in
beautiful and delicate settings that are not appropriate for larger-scale development.
Resort hotels ranging in size from 125 to 400 rooms tend to be affiliated with a
chain and located in major resort areas. They can be either low-rise or high-rise,
though they are usually more horizontal than vertical in design. They have large
balconies and larger rooms than comparable commercial hotels, and offer more
amenities as well. Hotels with more than 400 rooms are located in prime resort
locations offering major attractions such as beach frontage (Florida, the Caribbean,
and Hawaii), ski facilities (Colorado, Utah), large theme parks (Orlando), gaming
(Las Vegas), and golf (Arizona, Palm Springs).

Timeshare and Vacation Ownership Resorts


Timesharing began in France in the late 1960s and was first seen in the United States
in the 1970s.6 There were over 1,500 timeshare resorts in the United States in 2009
with about 7.2 million weekly intervals owned for an average resort size of 110 units.
The breakdown of the units was:7

 64 percent two bedroom


 22 percent one bedroom
 8 percent three bedroom or more
 5 percent studio units

Three states—Florida, California, and South Carolina—account for almost


40 percent of all timeshare resorts, with Florida responsible for almost 25 percent of
U.S. properties. Most are located in beach destinations (23 percent), followed by
C01 05/26/2011 14:51:27 Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 Resorts: An Introduction

country/lakes (18 percent) and golf and ski resorts (each at 11 percent). Two major
factors have accounted for the growth of the industry.8 First, highly recognizable
international companies such as Marriott International and Hilton Hotels Corpora-
tion have entered the marketplace, enhancing growth and consumer acceptance of
the concept. Timeshare is attractive to hotel companies for two reasons.9 There are
multiple sources of income from actual contract sales to interest payments on
mortgaged units, maintenance, and club membership fees. In addition, timeshares
are immune to economic conditions once the sale is made, since owners have a
contractual obligation to pay not only their mortgage but also an annual mainte-
nance fee.
A second reason for the growth of the industry is that states have introduced
improved consumer protection regulations. The result is increased consumer
confidence.
Timeshare is also popular in Europe, where over 1.5 million households own
timeshare units.10 The British and the Irish own almost 40 percent of European
timeshares, followed by the Germans (13 percent) and Italians (9 percent). Occu-
pancy levels are much higher than that of the European hotel sector. Spain is the
most popular destination with over one quarter of European resorts, followed by
Italy (15 percent) and the United Kingdom and Ireland (11 percent). Additionally,
almost half of all Europeans who own timeshares have them in Spain.
One third of timeshare owners buy a timeshare in their own country. The
distribution is uneven. Reflecting the impact of a warm, sunny climate, over 90 percent
of Spanish owners and over 80 percent of Greek and Portuguese owners have bought in
their own countries. The average owner’s household income is more than 60,000 euros,
the average age is 55, 57 percent are professionals, and 26 percent are retired.
When buying a timeshare, consider the following features, in order of importance:

 Quality of accommodation
 Exchange opportunities
 Credibility of company
 Resort features
 Affordable ongoing costs
 Affordable purchase price

In the United States the largest segment of timeshare owners are the baby boomer
generation—those born between 1946 and 1964.11 Over half work full-time while
almost one in five is retired. They are more educated than the U.S. population as a
whole. The average household income is almost twice the U.S. average of $50,233. The
most attractive resort characteristics for owners are beaches, attractions/entertain-
ment, and shopping.
They are motivated to buy because of:

 Certainty of quality accommodations


 Saving money on future vacation costs
 Credibility of timeshare company
 Overall flexibility
 Exchange opportunities
C01 05/26/2011 14:51:27 Page 13

Types of Resorts 13

Eighty-six percent say they are satisfied with their overall experience. However,
several factors take away from timeshare value. They are:12

 Poor resale price


 Recurring association or maintenance fees
 Negative view of timeshares held by friends and associates

The term vacation ownership is also used to mean timeshare. Timesharing is


defined as ‘‘the right to accommodations at a vacation development for a specified
period each year, for a specified number of years or for perpetuity.’’13 Each con-
dominium or unit is divided into intervals by the week or as points and sold
separately. Owners pay a lump sum up front (a fraction of the total ownership costs),
either in full or financed over a seven- to ten-year period, in addition to an annual
maintenance, management, and operations fee. Units are priced differently based
on unit size, resort amenities, location, and season of the year. The purchaser owns
the accommodation for the amount of time it is used. This is usually one or two
weeks out of the year. Fractionals allow the purchaser to buy longer intervals—
usually 4 to 12 weeks a year. They can cost as much as $600,000.
Annual fees cover the cost of management and maintenance of the resort.
Timeshare owners can exchange weeks through membership in exchange compa-
nies like Interval International and Resort Condominium International.

TIMESHARE OPTIONS Several timeshare options are possible.14 The fixed-week


option allows consumers to buy a specific week—for example, the first week in
August. Under the floating-week option, consumers buy a week within a given
period. For example, consumers may buy one week within weeks 6 through 12. A
combination option allows weeks in high-demand periods to be fixed and those in
low-demand periods to float. School holidays, for example, might be fixed at a
specific week, while, for the rest of the year, people buy the right to use the resort for
a nonspecific week during the off season. Recently, resorts have introduced points-
based memberships giving members points that can be used to ‘‘buy’’ resort stays.
Marriott Vacation Club International and Hilton Grand Vacations are both points-
based programs. Times of high demand require more points than times of low
demand. Guests can bank, borrow, or split up how and when they use their points.
Many properties are finding that they can cut back on marketing expenses because
they sell the points program to a captive audience. It is, however, initially confusing
for the guest and, as such, more complex for the operating company to run.
Points programs make particular sense for a company with multiple sites. To
work effectively, choices must be available for the customer, and multiple sites
allow this. The keys to successful implementation of a points system are:

 Setting the dollar-per-point ratio and sending the corresponding message to


the community
 Having a staff sophisticated enough to track point values and inventory
 Effective communication between the marketing staff and the operator
 Implementing the technology and a central reservation system with sufficient
capital to back it up15
C01 05/26/2011 14:51:27 Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 Resorts: An Introduction

Finally, the club concept does not involve any ownership of real estate. Instead,
consumers buy shares or points in the club; these are exchanged for accommoda-
tion or travel. Hyatt’s Vacation Club and the Sunterra Corporation brand (Embassy
Vacation Resorts, Westin Vacation Club Resorts, and Sunterra Resorts) are examples
of the club-based concept.
Timeshare options have evolved in recent years. They started with traditional
fixed units in a set week, then added a floating-week option and, most recently, the
flexible-points option.16 Segments tend to be region-focused—based on a specific
geographic region—or theme-focused such as golf, fishing, skiing.

‘‘The baby boom generation is at an age when building a custom vacation


home is very complex, time-consuming and frustrating, especially if it’s in a
remote location. They’d rather buy a turnkey unit, and let someone else take
care of it.’’
—ROB LOWE, PRESIDENT OF DESTINATION DEVELOPMENT
Wall Street Journal, February 1, 2006, D8

Condominium Hotels
In a condominium hotel, or condotel, guests buy fee-simple equity in the unit—
buying a hotel guestroom. They can be used as permanent or second (sometimes
third) homes. They are especially popular in hot real estate markets such as Miami,
Hawaii, and Las Vegas. They have developed to meet the needs of individuals,
especially baby boomers, interested in ownership of vacation real estate (approxi-
mately 1,000 U.S. baby boomers turn 60 every day).
Owners can earn income (depending on the policy of the hotel) by renting out
their units independently or through the rental program of the management company.
Condo hotel salespeople cannot promise that the units will generate income. To do so
might mean that the Securities and Exchange Commission would classify condo
hotels as securities. This would subject them to more stringent regulations. Thus,
buyers can be told only that they may have the opportunity to place their units into a
rental arrangement. While most developers prefer to avoid registration due to the time
and paperwork involved, it means that they are unable to require that owners
participate in a rental pool. This makes it difficult to make realistic income forecasts
for those owners who do participate in the pool. There are also potential problems
as owners react to the realities of the hotel business—seasonality, average daily
rates (ADR) versus rack rates, frequent renovation (and its attendant costs), etc. For
the project to have the best chance for success, it must make sense from a market and
economic point of view as a hotel before being considered as a condotel.
Some developers feel that the capital markets will no longer finance traditional
high-end hotels. Rather than spending several years looking for financing, they
produce a brochure and a model room and are often able to get 80 to 85 percent
financing of the project by pre-selling all of the rooms as condominium residences.
Individuals cannot get mortgages for hotel rooms but they can for condo apartments
that have kitchens and dining areas. Owners are responsible for maintenance and
operating expenses. Chicago’s Trump International Hotel and Tower pre-sold over
70 percent of its 286 units two years before it opened. Prices range from $815,000 for
a studio with a small kitchen and bathroom to $3 million for a two-bedroom with a
C01 05/26/2011 14:51:27 Page 15

Types of Resorts 15

large living room, dining room, and two and a half bathrooms. In addition, if owners
want their unit rented out, they must pay for upscale furniture, plasma televisions,
linens, and china that cost from $45,000 to $90,000.17
Condo hotels can be:18

 Ownership structure where rooms are sold to individuals as an investment.


Owners stay for the minimum time required by law.
 Mixed-use project with a hotel and a primary residence piece. Owners live in
residences similar to those sold by companies such as The Ritz-Carlton and
Four Seasons.
 Mixed-use in a resort area with a hotel where the condo can be used as a
second home. When the owner is not using it, the unit is placed into a rental
program to generate income for the owner.

Typically, the first type is not a good investment while the latter two can be.
There is no guarantee that resale prices will be greater than the initial cost of the
condo. The latter two options offer owners the opportunity to generate income
throughout the life of the project. Condo hotel unit owners can receive anywhere
from 30 to 60 percent of the revenue when their unit is rented.

Destination Clubs
Destination clubs offer non-equity membership that allows members to access the
club’s portfolio of homes. The homes and villas—three- to five-bedroom homes
typically on resort properties and near ski resorts or beaches—are owned by the
club company and are for the exclusive use of members. In a given year, members
get 10 to 60 days of usage at different locations. Members are given assistance in pre-
departure planning and concierge and daily cleaning services on site. One of the
more successful clubs, Exclusive Resorts, survived bankruptcy to grow its portfolio
to more than 400 homes in 37 locations. Its 3,400 members pay anywhere from a
$160,000 deposit and annual dues of $13,900 to $500,000 deposit and $59,900 annual
dues for 60 nights.

Mixed-Use Developments
The majority of high-end U.S. hotel and resort properties now incorporate some type
of residential component. According to the Lodging Industry Investment Council—an
independent industry think-tank with 70 high-profile members from the lodging-invest-
ment community—this trend will increase dramatically, with condo hotels and time-
share units becoming commonplace in parts of the luxury hotel market.19 Increased
numbers of resorts are utilizing mixed-use developments that feature a timeshare
component.20 In the past, developers built a property, then created demand for it.
Nowadays, the demand for timeshare products dictates production.
A major reason for mixed-use developments is the high cost of amenities.
Because high-quality amenities cost a great deal of money, being able to spread out
the use and cost of these facilities makes it cheaper for everyone. In addition to the
cross-utilization of amenities, hotel guests are exposed to timeshare products and
may well be induced to buy. In this way, timeshare operators can reduce their
marketing costs. The timeshare component brings a steady stream of revenue into
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16 CHAPTER 1 Resorts: An Introduction

Quick Getaway 1.2

Travel Clubs
Travel clubs have been viewed in the past as regarding consumer financing. The uncertain reg-
competitive and detrimental to traditional vaca- ulatory environment has created several problems.
tion ownership—timeshare. Now, however, they There is a perception that travel clubs are less
are increasingly accepted and the concept is desirable as a travel product. As a result, govern-
being utilized by traditional timeshare compa- ment authorities tend to be more aggressive in
nies as part of their product offerings. enforcement. Second, underwriting risks have held
Travel clubs give consumers the ‘‘right to back financial institutions from providing receiv-
request space-available reservations for prepaid ables financing for the provider. Third, even if a
or discounted lodging accommodations.’’ Addi- travel club operator has been able to secure
tionally, consumers may purchase such things as financing, he or she is often unable to understand
personal concierge services, travel, and other parts all of the applicable laws regarding the offering.
of the vacation experience. Consumers pay an up- Because of the lack of liquidity in global
front purchase price or membership fee, averaging credit markets, the amount of money available to
$4,500, as well as annual dues of approximately finance timeshare purchases has been reduced.
$200 if they wish to continue to receive program This is a major factor in travel clubs being seen as
benefits. They may cancel at any time. complimentary to timeshare. Traditional time-
Members are offered lodging at a particular share operations are seeing travel clubs as a
destination rather than at a specific property. low-cost alternative for consumers.
While some operators are vertically inte-
grated—performing all aspects of marketing, Source: Polvino, Anthony, and Lucas Smith. ‘‘Travel Clubs:
sales, and fulfillment—most separate out the Considerations for an Increasingly Valuable Vacation
Product,’’ Developments (October 2010), 50–51.
functions so that marketing and sales are
handled by one organization while a travel-
club operator deals with fulfillment. DISCUSSION QUESTIONS:
Most states do not have clear laws regarding Are travel clubs attractive to you? Why or why not? As
the operation of travel clubs. They are, however, the economy improves, will this continue to be a viable
subject to both state and federal regulations alternative for consumers?

the resort; everyone benefits. It does, however, take an experienced staff to meet the
differing needs of timeshare owners and hotel guests.
Because of the unique nature of timeshare financing, specialized timeshare
lenders have emerged. The financing of a timeshare property is different from that of
a traditional hotel. Most hotel mortgages are long-term deals wherein the payback
comes from the hotel’s cash flow, which is generated from daily operations.
Timeshare loans, on the other hand, are shorter-term loans based on the developer’s
ability to market and sell interest in the timeshare.21 In addition, the lending process
is more complex because of the regulatory issues involved in timeshare.
C01 05/26/2011 14:51:28 Page 17

Types of Resorts 17

Quick Getaway 1.3

Advice to Managers
Here is advice for a timeshare resort manager. $60 over the life of 12 towels and $85 over the

life cycle of 12 sheets.
Consolidate purchasing. The price of a prod-
 Buy quality outdoor furniture. Initially, the
uct consists of the time spent researching,
placing the order, freight, receiving, and the cost is higher but it will last longer.
processing of accounts receivable.  Develop a proactive bedbug plan. Encase the
 When selecting a vendor, check references for mattress and box springs.
customer service.
Source: ‘‘Tips From the Experts,’’ Developments (Septem-
 Consider a wireless system to integrate the ber 2010), 62.
front-desk system with everything else, from
locks to safes.
 ‘‘Green’’ textiles can save up to 50 percent on DISCUSSION QUESTION:
washing and drying costs. This can amount to Which idea is likely to save the most money for the resort?

However, in many respects, timeshare financing is simpler and more predicta-


ble than hotel financing. Both revenue and expenses are more foreseeable for
timeshares. Once the timeshare unit is sold, revenue is accounted for. The hotel
room has to be resold each and every night, with no guarantee that it will produce
revenue. Hotels incur many costs whether they are full or empty, while timeshare
costs are easier to predict. High customer satisfaction and solid growth of time-
shares, together with the financial characteristics noted above, means fewer time-
share defaults compared to hotels.

Second-Home Developments
A second-home development is a project that consists primarily of second homes
and does not include a resort hotel. A second home is ‘‘a home that is owned fee
simple by an individual or family that also owns or rents another home as a primary
residence.’’22 In other words, the family owns both a primary and a second home.
While second homes are not necessarily found in resort areas, second-home develop-
ments are. They consist of a variety of types of properties—detached, attached,
multifamily—and can be combined with other uses. The Miami region of Florida, the
Phoenix region of Arizona, and the Palm Springs region of California are examples of
combination retirement, primary-, and second-home developments.
Compared to primary homes, second homes place more emphasis on outdoor
areas, they are developed at lower densities, and their design is less formal. They are
managed under a long-term arrangement by a community association rather than by
a developer or resort operator. However, the latter may be involved in management
of a principal amenity, such as a golf course.
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DANCE ON STILTS AT THE GIRLS’ UNYAGO, NIUCHI

Newala, too, suffers from the distance of its water-supply—at least


the Newala of to-day does; there was once another Newala in a lovely
valley at the foot of the plateau. I visited it and found scarcely a trace
of houses, only a Christian cemetery, with the graves of several
missionaries and their converts, remaining as a monument of its
former glories. But the surroundings are wonderfully beautiful. A
thick grove of splendid mango-trees closes in the weather-worn
crosses and headstones; behind them, combining the useful and the
agreeable, is a whole plantation of lemon-trees covered with ripe
fruit; not the small African kind, but a much larger and also juicier
imported variety, which drops into the hands of the passing traveller,
without calling for any exertion on his part. Old Newala is now under
the jurisdiction of the native pastor, Daudi, at Chingulungulu, who,
as I am on very friendly terms with him, allows me, as a matter of
course, the use of this lemon-grove during my stay at Newala.
FEET MUTILATED BY THE RAVAGES OF THE “JIGGER”
(Sarcopsylla penetrans)

The water-supply of New Newala is in the bottom of the valley,


some 1,600 feet lower down. The way is not only long and fatiguing,
but the water, when we get it, is thoroughly bad. We are suffering not
only from this, but from the fact that the arrangements at Newala are
nothing short of luxurious. We have a separate kitchen—a hut built
against the boma palisade on the right of the baraza, the interior of
which is not visible from our usual position. Our two cooks were not
long in finding this out, and they consequently do—or rather neglect
to do—what they please. In any case they do not seem to be very
particular about the boiling of our drinking-water—at least I can
attribute to no other cause certain attacks of a dysenteric nature,
from which both Knudsen and I have suffered for some time. If a
man like Omari has to be left unwatched for a moment, he is capable
of anything. Besides this complaint, we are inconvenienced by the
state of our nails, which have become as hard as glass, and crack on
the slightest provocation, and I have the additional infliction of
pimples all over me. As if all this were not enough, we have also, for
the last week been waging war against the jigger, who has found his
Eldorado in the hot sand of the Makonde plateau. Our men are seen
all day long—whenever their chronic colds and the dysentery likewise
raging among them permit—occupied in removing this scourge of
Africa from their feet and trying to prevent the disastrous
consequences of its presence. It is quite common to see natives of
this place with one or two toes missing; many have lost all their toes,
or even the whole front part of the foot, so that a well-formed leg
ends in a shapeless stump. These ravages are caused by the female of
Sarcopsylla penetrans, which bores its way under the skin and there
develops an egg-sac the size of a pea. In all books on the subject, it is
stated that one’s attention is called to the presence of this parasite by
an intolerable itching. This agrees very well with my experience, so
far as the softer parts of the sole, the spaces between and under the
toes, and the side of the foot are concerned, but if the creature
penetrates through the harder parts of the heel or ball of the foot, it
may escape even the most careful search till it has reached maturity.
Then there is no time to be lost, if the horrible ulceration, of which
we see cases by the dozen every day, is to be prevented. It is much
easier, by the way, to discover the insect on the white skin of a
European than on that of a native, on which the dark speck scarcely
shows. The four or five jiggers which, in spite of the fact that I
constantly wore high laced boots, chose my feet to settle in, were
taken out for me by the all-accomplished Knudsen, after which I
thought it advisable to wash out the cavities with corrosive
sublimate. The natives have a different sort of disinfectant—they fill
the hole with scraped roots. In a tiny Makua village on the slope of
the plateau south of Newala, we saw an old woman who had filled all
the spaces under her toe-nails with powdered roots by way of
prophylactic treatment. What will be the result, if any, who can say?
The rest of the many trifling ills which trouble our existence are
really more comic than serious. In the absence of anything else to
smoke, Knudsen and I at last opened a box of cigars procured from
the Indian store-keeper at Lindi, and tried them, with the most
distressing results. Whether they contain opium or some other
narcotic, neither of us can say, but after the tenth puff we were both
“off,” three-quarters stupefied and unspeakably wretched. Slowly we
recovered—and what happened next? Half-an-hour later we were
once more smoking these poisonous concoctions—so insatiable is the
craving for tobacco in the tropics.
Even my present attacks of fever scarcely deserve to be taken
seriously. I have had no less than three here at Newala, all of which
have run their course in an incredibly short time. In the early
afternoon, I am busy with my old natives, asking questions and
making notes. The strong midday coffee has stimulated my spirits to
an extraordinary degree, the brain is active and vigorous, and work
progresses rapidly, while a pleasant warmth pervades the whole
body. Suddenly this gives place to a violent chill, forcing me to put on
my overcoat, though it is only half-past three and the afternoon sun
is at its hottest. Now the brain no longer works with such acuteness
and logical precision; more especially does it fail me in trying to
establish the syntax of the difficult Makua language on which I have
ventured, as if I had not enough to do without it. Under the
circumstances it seems advisable to take my temperature, and I do
so, to save trouble, without leaving my seat, and while going on with
my work. On examination, I find it to be 101·48°. My tutors are
abruptly dismissed and my bed set up in the baraza; a few minutes
later I am in it and treating myself internally with hot water and
lemon-juice.
Three hours later, the thermometer marks nearly 104°, and I make
them carry me back into the tent, bed and all, as I am now perspiring
heavily, and exposure to the cold wind just beginning to blow might
mean a fatal chill. I lie still for a little while, and then find, to my
great relief, that the temperature is not rising, but rather falling. This
is about 7.30 p.m. At 8 p.m. I find, to my unbounded astonishment,
that it has fallen below 98·6°, and I feel perfectly well. I read for an
hour or two, and could very well enjoy a smoke, if I had the
wherewithal—Indian cigars being out of the question.
Having no medical training, I am at a loss to account for this state
of things. It is impossible that these transitory attacks of high fever
should be malarial; it seems more probable that they are due to a
kind of sunstroke. On consulting my note-book, I become more and
more inclined to think this is the case, for these attacks regularly
follow extreme fatigue and long exposure to strong sunshine. They at
least have the advantage of being only short interruptions to my
work, as on the following morning I am always quite fresh and fit.
My treasure of a cook is suffering from an enormous hydrocele which
makes it difficult for him to get up, and Moritz is obliged to keep in
the dark on account of his inflamed eyes. Knudsen’s cook, a raw boy
from somewhere in the bush, knows still less of cooking than Omari;
consequently Nils Knudsen himself has been promoted to the vacant
post. Finding that we had come to the end of our supplies, he began
by sending to Chingulungulu for the four sucking-pigs which we had
bought from Matola and temporarily left in his charge; and when
they came up, neatly packed in a large crate, he callously slaughtered
the biggest of them. The first joint we were thoughtless enough to
entrust for roasting to Knudsen’s mshenzi cook, and it was
consequently uneatable; but we made the rest of the animal into a
jelly which we ate with great relish after weeks of underfeeding,
consuming incredible helpings of it at both midday and evening
meals. The only drawback is a certain want of variety in the tinned
vegetables. Dr. Jäger, to whom the Geographical Commission
entrusted the provisioning of the expeditions—mine as well as his
own—because he had more time on his hands than the rest of us,
seems to have laid in a huge stock of Teltow turnips,[46] an article of
food which is all very well for occasional use, but which quickly palls
when set before one every day; and we seem to have no other tins
left. There is no help for it—we must put up with the turnips; but I
am certain that, once I am home again, I shall not touch them for ten
years to come.
Amid all these minor evils, which, after all, go to make up the
genuine flavour of Africa, there is at least one cheering touch:
Knudsen has, with the dexterity of a skilled mechanic, repaired my 9
× 12 cm. camera, at least so far that I can use it with a little care.
How, in the absence of finger-nails, he was able to accomplish such a
ticklish piece of work, having no tool but a clumsy screw-driver for
taking to pieces and putting together again the complicated
mechanism of the instantaneous shutter, is still a mystery to me; but
he did it successfully. The loss of his finger-nails shows him in a light
contrasting curiously enough with the intelligence evinced by the
above operation; though, after all, it is scarcely surprising after his
ten years’ residence in the bush. One day, at Lindi, he had occasion
to wash a dog, which must have been in need of very thorough
cleansing, for the bottle handed to our friend for the purpose had an
extremely strong smell. Having performed his task in the most
conscientious manner, he perceived with some surprise that the dog
did not appear much the better for it, and was further surprised by
finding his own nails ulcerating away in the course of the next few
days. “How was I to know that carbolic acid has to be diluted?” he
mutters indignantly, from time to time, with a troubled gaze at his
mutilated finger-tips.
Since we came to Newala we have been making excursions in all
directions through the surrounding country, in accordance with old
habit, and also because the akida Sefu did not get together the tribal
elders from whom I wanted information so speedily as he had
promised. There is, however, no harm done, as, even if seen only
from the outside, the country and people are interesting enough.
The Makonde plateau is like a large rectangular table rounded off
at the corners. Measured from the Indian Ocean to Newala, it is
about seventy-five miles long, and between the Rovuma and the
Lukuledi it averages fifty miles in breadth, so that its superficial area
is about two-thirds of that of the kingdom of Saxony. The surface,
however, is not level, but uniformly inclined from its south-western
edge to the ocean. From the upper edge, on which Newala lies, the
eye ranges for many miles east and north-east, without encountering
any obstacle, over the Makonde bush. It is a green sea, from which
here and there thick clouds of smoke rise, to show that it, too, is
inhabited by men who carry on their tillage like so many other
primitive peoples, by cutting down and burning the bush, and
manuring with the ashes. Even in the radiant light of a tropical day
such a fire is a grand sight.
Much less effective is the impression produced just now by the
great western plain as seen from the edge of the plateau. As often as
time permits, I stroll along this edge, sometimes in one direction,
sometimes in another, in the hope of finding the air clear enough to
let me enjoy the view; but I have always been disappointed.
Wherever one looks, clouds of smoke rise from the burning bush,
and the air is full of smoke and vapour. It is a pity, for under more
favourable circumstances the panorama of the whole country up to
the distant Majeje hills must be truly magnificent. It is of little use
taking photographs now, and an outline sketch gives a very poor idea
of the scenery. In one of these excursions I went out of my way to
make a personal attempt on the Makonde bush. The present edge of
the plateau is the result of a far-reaching process of destruction
through erosion and denudation. The Makonde strata are
everywhere cut into by ravines, which, though short, are hundreds of
yards in depth. In consequence of the loose stratification of these
beds, not only are the walls of these ravines nearly vertical, but their
upper end is closed by an equally steep escarpment, so that the
western edge of the Makonde plateau is hemmed in by a series of
deep, basin-like valleys. In order to get from one side of such a ravine
to the other, I cut my way through the bush with a dozen of my men.
It was a very open part, with more grass than scrub, but even so the
short stretch of less than two hundred yards was very hard work; at
the end of it the men’s calicoes were in rags and they themselves
bleeding from hundreds of scratches, while even our strong khaki
suits had not escaped scatheless.

NATIVE PATH THROUGH THE MAKONDE BUSH, NEAR


MAHUTA

I see increasing reason to believe that the view formed some time
back as to the origin of the Makonde bush is the correct one. I have
no doubt that it is not a natural product, but the result of human
occupation. Those parts of the high country where man—as a very
slight amount of practice enables the eye to perceive at once—has not
yet penetrated with axe and hoe, are still occupied by a splendid
timber forest quite able to sustain a comparison with our mixed
forests in Germany. But wherever man has once built his hut or tilled
his field, this horrible bush springs up. Every phase of this process
may be seen in the course of a couple of hours’ walk along the main
road. From the bush to right or left, one hears the sound of the axe—
not from one spot only, but from several directions at once. A few
steps further on, we can see what is taking place. The brush has been
cut down and piled up in heaps to the height of a yard or more,
between which the trunks of the large trees stand up like the last
pillars of a magnificent ruined building. These, too, present a
melancholy spectacle: the destructive Makonde have ringed them—
cut a broad strip of bark all round to ensure their dying off—and also
piled up pyramids of brush round them. Father and son, mother and
son-in-law, are chopping away perseveringly in the background—too
busy, almost, to look round at the white stranger, who usually excites
so much interest. If you pass by the same place a week later, the piles
of brushwood have disappeared and a thick layer of ashes has taken
the place of the green forest. The large trees stretch their
smouldering trunks and branches in dumb accusation to heaven—if
they have not already fallen and been more or less reduced to ashes,
perhaps only showing as a white stripe on the dark ground.
This work of destruction is carried out by the Makonde alike on the
virgin forest and on the bush which has sprung up on sites already
cultivated and deserted. In the second case they are saved the trouble
of burning the large trees, these being entirely absent in the
secondary bush.
After burning this piece of forest ground and loosening it with the
hoe, the native sows his corn and plants his vegetables. All over the
country, he goes in for bed-culture, which requires, and, in fact,
receives, the most careful attention. Weeds are nowhere tolerated in
the south of German East Africa. The crops may fail on the plains,
where droughts are frequent, but never on the plateau with its
abundant rains and heavy dews. Its fortunate inhabitants even have
the satisfaction of seeing the proud Wayao and Wamakua working
for them as labourers, driven by hunger to serve where they were
accustomed to rule.
But the light, sandy soil is soon exhausted, and would yield no
harvest the second year if cultivated twice running. This fact has
been familiar to the native for ages; consequently he provides in
time, and, while his crop is growing, prepares the next plot with axe
and firebrand. Next year he plants this with his various crops and
lets the first piece lie fallow. For a short time it remains waste and
desolate; then nature steps in to repair the destruction wrought by
man; a thousand new growths spring out of the exhausted soil, and
even the old stumps put forth fresh shoots. Next year the new growth
is up to one’s knees, and in a few years more it is that terrible,
impenetrable bush, which maintains its position till the black
occupier of the land has made the round of all the available sites and
come back to his starting point.
The Makonde are, body and soul, so to speak, one with this bush.
According to my Yao informants, indeed, their name means nothing
else but “bush people.” Their own tradition says that they have been
settled up here for a very long time, but to my surprise they laid great
stress on an original immigration. Their old homes were in the
south-east, near Mikindani and the mouth of the Rovuma, whence
their peaceful forefathers were driven by the continual raids of the
Sakalavas from Madagascar and the warlike Shirazis[47] of the coast,
to take refuge on the almost inaccessible plateau. I have studied
African ethnology for twenty years, but the fact that changes of
population in this apparently quiet and peaceable corner of the earth
could have been occasioned by outside enterprises taking place on
the high seas, was completely new to me. It is, no doubt, however,
correct.
The charming tribal legend of the Makonde—besides informing us
of other interesting matters—explains why they have to live in the
thickest of the bush and a long way from the edge of the plateau,
instead of making their permanent homes beside the purling brooks
and springs of the low country.
“The place where the tribe originated is Mahuta, on the southern
side of the plateau towards the Rovuma, where of old time there was
nothing but thick bush. Out of this bush came a man who never
washed himself or shaved his head, and who ate and drank but little.
He went out and made a human figure from the wood of a tree
growing in the open country, which he took home to his abode in the
bush and there set it upright. In the night this image came to life and
was a woman. The man and woman went down together to the
Rovuma to wash themselves. Here the woman gave birth to a still-
born child. They left that place and passed over the high land into the
valley of the Mbemkuru, where the woman had another child, which
was also born dead. Then they returned to the high bush country of
Mahuta, where the third child was born, which lived and grew up. In
course of time, the couple had many more children, and called
themselves Wamatanda. These were the ancestral stock of the
Makonde, also called Wamakonde,[48] i.e., aborigines. Their
forefather, the man from the bush, gave his children the command to
bury their dead upright, in memory of the mother of their race who
was cut out of wood and awoke to life when standing upright. He also
warned them against settling in the valleys and near large streams,
for sickness and death dwelt there. They were to make it a rule to
have their huts at least an hour’s walk from the nearest watering-
place; then their children would thrive and escape illness.”
The explanation of the name Makonde given by my informants is
somewhat different from that contained in the above legend, which I
extract from a little book (small, but packed with information), by
Pater Adams, entitled Lindi und sein Hinterland. Otherwise, my
results agree exactly with the statements of the legend. Washing?
Hapana—there is no such thing. Why should they do so? As it is, the
supply of water scarcely suffices for cooking and drinking; other
people do not wash, so why should the Makonde distinguish himself
by such needless eccentricity? As for shaving the head, the short,
woolly crop scarcely needs it,[49] so the second ancestral precept is
likewise easy enough to follow. Beyond this, however, there is
nothing ridiculous in the ancestor’s advice. I have obtained from
various local artists a fairly large number of figures carved in wood,
ranging from fifteen to twenty-three inches in height, and
representing women belonging to the great group of the Mavia,
Makonde, and Matambwe tribes. The carving is remarkably well
done and renders the female type with great accuracy, especially the
keloid ornamentation, to be described later on. As to the object and
meaning of their works the sculptors either could or (more probably)
would tell me nothing, and I was forced to content myself with the
scanty information vouchsafed by one man, who said that the figures
were merely intended to represent the nembo—the artificial
deformations of pelele, ear-discs, and keloids. The legend recorded
by Pater Adams places these figures in a new light. They must surely
be more than mere dolls; and we may even venture to assume that
they are—though the majority of present-day Makonde are probably
unaware of the fact—representations of the tribal ancestress.
The references in the legend to the descent from Mahuta to the
Rovuma, and to a journey across the highlands into the Mbekuru
valley, undoubtedly indicate the previous history of the tribe, the
travels of the ancestral pair typifying the migrations of their
descendants. The descent to the neighbouring Rovuma valley, with
its extraordinary fertility and great abundance of game, is intelligible
at a glance—but the crossing of the Lukuledi depression, the ascent
to the Rondo Plateau and the descent to the Mbemkuru, also lie
within the bounds of probability, for all these districts have exactly
the same character as the extreme south. Now, however, comes a
point of especial interest for our bacteriological age. The primitive
Makonde did not enjoy their lives in the marshy river-valleys.
Disease raged among them, and many died. It was only after they
had returned to their original home near Mahuta, that the health
conditions of these people improved. We are very apt to think of the
African as a stupid person whose ignorance of nature is only equalled
by his fear of it, and who looks on all mishaps as caused by evil
spirits and malignant natural powers. It is much more correct to
assume in this case that the people very early learnt to distinguish
districts infested with malaria from those where it is absent.
This knowledge is crystallized in the
ancestral warning against settling in the
valleys and near the great waters, the
dwelling-places of disease and death. At the
same time, for security against the hostile
Mavia south of the Rovuma, it was enacted
that every settlement must be not less than a
certain distance from the southern edge of the
plateau. Such in fact is their mode of life at the
present day. It is not such a bad one, and
certainly they are both safer and more
comfortable than the Makua, the recent
intruders from the south, who have made USUAL METHOD OF
good their footing on the western edge of the CLOSING HUT-DOOR
plateau, extending over a fairly wide belt of
country. Neither Makua nor Makonde show in their dwellings
anything of the size and comeliness of the Yao houses in the plain,
especially at Masasi, Chingulungulu and Zuza’s. Jumbe Chauro, a
Makonde hamlet not far from Newala, on the road to Mahuta, is the
most important settlement of the tribe I have yet seen, and has fairly
spacious huts. But how slovenly is their construction compared with
the palatial residences of the elephant-hunters living in the plain.
The roofs are still more untidy than in the general run of huts during
the dry season, the walls show here and there the scanty beginnings
or the lamentable remains of the mud plastering, and the interior is a
veritable dog-kennel; dirt, dust and disorder everywhere. A few huts
only show any attempt at division into rooms, and this consists
merely of very roughly-made bamboo partitions. In one point alone
have I noticed any indication of progress—in the method of fastening
the door. Houses all over the south are secured in a simple but
ingenious manner. The door consists of a set of stout pieces of wood
or bamboo, tied with bark-string to two cross-pieces, and moving in
two grooves round one of the door-posts, so as to open inwards. If
the owner wishes to leave home, he takes two logs as thick as a man’s
upper arm and about a yard long. One of these is placed obliquely
against the middle of the door from the inside, so as to form an angle
of from 60° to 75° with the ground. He then places the second piece
horizontally across the first, pressing it downward with all his might.
It is kept in place by two strong posts planted in the ground a few
inches inside the door. This fastening is absolutely safe, but of course
cannot be applied to both doors at once, otherwise how could the
owner leave or enter his house? I have not yet succeeded in finding
out how the back door is fastened.

MAKONDE LOCK AND KEY AT JUMBE CHAURO


This is the general way of closing a house. The Makonde at Jumbe
Chauro, however, have a much more complicated, solid and original
one. Here, too, the door is as already described, except that there is
only one post on the inside, standing by itself about six inches from
one side of the doorway. Opposite this post is a hole in the wall just
large enough to admit a man’s arm. The door is closed inside by a
large wooden bolt passing through a hole in this post and pressing
with its free end against the door. The other end has three holes into
which fit three pegs running in vertical grooves inside the post. The
door is opened with a wooden key about a foot long, somewhat
curved and sloped off at the butt; the other end has three pegs
corresponding to the holes, in the bolt, so that, when it is thrust
through the hole in the wall and inserted into the rectangular
opening in the post, the pegs can be lifted and the bolt drawn out.[50]

MODE OF INSERTING THE KEY

With no small pride first one householder and then a second


showed me on the spot the action of this greatest invention of the
Makonde Highlands. To both with an admiring exclamation of
“Vizuri sana!” (“Very fine!”). I expressed the wish to take back these
marvels with me to Ulaya, to show the Wazungu what clever fellows
the Makonde are. Scarcely five minutes after my return to camp at
Newala, the two men came up sweating under the weight of two
heavy logs which they laid down at my feet, handing over at the same
time the keys of the fallen fortress. Arguing, logically enough, that if
the key was wanted, the lock would be wanted with it, they had taken
their axes and chopped down the posts—as it never occurred to them
to dig them out of the ground and so bring them intact. Thus I have
two badly damaged specimens, and the owners, instead of praise,
come in for a blowing-up.
The Makua huts in the environs of Newala are especially
miserable; their more than slovenly construction reminds one of the
temporary erections of the Makua at Hatia’s, though the people here
have not been concerned in a war. It must therefore be due to
congenital idleness, or else to the absence of a powerful chief. Even
the baraza at Mlipa’s, a short hour’s walk south-east of Newala,
shares in this general neglect. While public buildings in this country
are usually looked after more or less carefully, this is in evident
danger of being blown over by the first strong easterly gale. The only
attractive object in this whole district is the grave of the late chief
Mlipa. I visited it in the morning, while the sun was still trying with
partial success to break through the rolling mists, and the circular
grove of tall euphorbias, which, with a broken pot, is all that marks
the old king’s resting-place, impressed one with a touch of pathos.
Even my very materially-minded carriers seemed to feel something
of the sort, for instead of their usual ribald songs, they chanted
solemnly, as we marched on through the dense green of the Makonde
bush:—
“We shall arrive with the great master; we stand in a row and have
no fear about getting our food and our money from the Serkali (the
Government). We are not afraid; we are going along with the great
master, the lion; we are going down to the coast and back.”
With regard to the characteristic features of the various tribes here
on the western edge of the plateau, I can arrive at no other
conclusion than the one already come to in the plain, viz., that it is
impossible for anyone but a trained anthropologist to assign any
given individual at once to his proper tribe. In fact, I think that even
an anthropological specialist, after the most careful examination,
might find it a difficult task to decide. The whole congeries of peoples
collected in the region bounded on the west by the great Central
African rift, Tanganyika and Nyasa, and on the east by the Indian
Ocean, are closely related to each other—some of their languages are
only distinguished from one another as dialects of the same speech,
and no doubt all the tribes present the same shape of skull and
structure of skeleton. Thus, surely, there can be no very striking
differences in outward appearance.
Even did such exist, I should have no time
to concern myself with them, for day after day,
I have to see or hear, as the case may be—in
any case to grasp and record—an
extraordinary number of ethnographic
phenomena. I am almost disposed to think it
fortunate that some departments of inquiry, at
least, are barred by external circumstances.
Chief among these is the subject of iron-
working. We are apt to think of Africa as a
country where iron ore is everywhere, so to
speak, to be picked up by the roadside, and
where it would be quite surprising if the
inhabitants had not learnt to smelt the
material ready to their hand. In fact, the
knowledge of this art ranges all over the
continent, from the Kabyles in the north to the
Kafirs in the south. Here between the Rovuma
and the Lukuledi the conditions are not so
favourable. According to the statements of the
Makonde, neither ironstone nor any other
form of iron ore is known to them. They have
not therefore advanced to the art of smelting
the metal, but have hitherto bought all their
THE ANCESTRESS OF
THE MAKONDE
iron implements from neighbouring tribes.
Even in the plain the inhabitants are not much
better off. Only one man now living is said to
understand the art of smelting iron. This old fundi lives close to
Huwe, that isolated, steep-sided block of granite which rises out of
the green solitude between Masasi and Chingulungulu, and whose
jagged and splintered top meets the traveller’s eye everywhere. While
still at Masasi I wished to see this man at work, but was told that,
frightened by the rising, he had retired across the Rovuma, though
he would soon return. All subsequent inquiries as to whether the
fundi had come back met with the genuine African answer, “Bado”
(“Not yet”).
BRAZIER

Some consolation was afforded me by a brassfounder, whom I


came across in the bush near Akundonde’s. This man is the favourite
of women, and therefore no doubt of the gods; he welds the glittering
brass rods purchased at the coast into those massive, heavy rings
which, on the wrists and ankles of the local fair ones, continually give
me fresh food for admiration. Like every decent master-craftsman he
had all his tools with him, consisting of a pair of bellows, three
crucibles and a hammer—nothing more, apparently. He was quite
willing to show his skill, and in a twinkling had fixed his bellows on
the ground. They are simply two goat-skins, taken off whole, the four
legs being closed by knots, while the upper opening, intended to
admit the air, is kept stretched by two pieces of wood. At the lower
end of the skin a smaller opening is left into which a wooden tube is
stuck. The fundi has quickly borrowed a heap of wood-embers from
the nearest hut; he then fixes the free ends of the two tubes into an
earthen pipe, and clamps them to the ground by means of a bent
piece of wood. Now he fills one of his small clay crucibles, the dross
on which shows that they have been long in use, with the yellow
material, places it in the midst of the embers, which, at present are
only faintly glimmering, and begins his work. In quick alternation
the smith’s two hands move up and down with the open ends of the
bellows; as he raises his hand he holds the slit wide open, so as to let
the air enter the skin bag unhindered. In pressing it down he closes
the bag, and the air puffs through the bamboo tube and clay pipe into
the fire, which quickly burns up. The smith, however, does not keep
on with this work, but beckons to another man, who relieves him at
the bellows, while he takes some more tools out of a large skin pouch
carried on his back. I look on in wonder as, with a smooth round
stick about the thickness of a finger, he bores a few vertical holes into
the clean sand of the soil. This should not be difficult, yet the man
seems to be taking great pains over it. Then he fastens down to the
ground, with a couple of wooden clamps, a neat little trough made by
splitting a joint of bamboo in half, so that the ends are closed by the
two knots. At last the yellow metal has attained the right consistency,
and the fundi lifts the crucible from the fire by means of two sticks
split at the end to serve as tongs. A short swift turn to the left—a
tilting of the crucible—and the molten brass, hissing and giving forth
clouds of smoke, flows first into the bamboo mould and then into the
holes in the ground.
The technique of this backwoods craftsman may not be very far
advanced, but it cannot be denied that he knows how to obtain an
adequate result by the simplest means. The ladies of highest rank in
this country—that is to say, those who can afford it, wear two kinds
of these massive brass rings, one cylindrical, the other semicircular
in section. The latter are cast in the most ingenious way in the
bamboo mould, the former in the circular hole in the sand. It is quite
a simple matter for the fundi to fit these bars to the limbs of his fair
customers; with a few light strokes of his hammer he bends the
pliable brass round arm or ankle without further inconvenience to
the wearer.
SHAPING THE POT

SMOOTHING WITH MAIZE-COB

CUTTING THE EDGE


FINISHING THE BOTTOM

LAST SMOOTHING BEFORE


BURNING

FIRING THE BRUSH-PILE


LIGHTING THE FARTHER SIDE OF
THE PILE

TURNING THE RED-HOT VESSEL

NYASA WOMAN MAKING POTS AT MASASI


Pottery is an art which must always and everywhere excite the
interest of the student, just because it is so intimately connected with
the development of human culture, and because its relics are one of
the principal factors in the reconstruction of our own condition in
prehistoric times. I shall always remember with pleasure the two or
three afternoons at Masasi when Salim Matola’s mother, a slightly-
built, graceful, pleasant-looking woman, explained to me with
touching patience, by means of concrete illustrations, the ceramic art
of her people. The only implements for this primitive process were a
lump of clay in her left hand, and in the right a calabash containing
the following valuables: the fragment of a maize-cob stripped of all
its grains, a smooth, oval pebble, about the size of a pigeon’s egg, a
few chips of gourd-shell, a bamboo splinter about the length of one’s
hand, a small shell, and a bunch of some herb resembling spinach.
Nothing more. The woman scraped with the
shell a round, shallow hole in the soft, fine
sand of the soil, and, when an active young
girl had filled the calabash with water for her,
she began to knead the clay. As if by magic it
gradually assumed the shape of a rough but
already well-shaped vessel, which only wanted
a little touching up with the instruments
before mentioned. I looked out with the
MAKUA WOMAN closest attention for any indication of the use
MAKING A POT. of the potter’s wheel, in however rudimentary
SHOWS THE a form, but no—hapana (there is none). The
BEGINNINGS OF THE embryo pot stood firmly in its little
POTTER’S WHEEL
depression, and the woman walked round it in
a stooping posture, whether she was removing
small stones or similar foreign bodies with the maize-cob, smoothing
the inner or outer surface with the splinter of bamboo, or later, after
letting it dry for a day, pricking in the ornamentation with a pointed
bit of gourd-shell, or working out the bottom, or cutting the edge
with a sharp bamboo knife, or giving the last touches to the finished
vessel. This occupation of the women is infinitely toilsome, but it is
without doubt an accurate reproduction of the process in use among
our ancestors of the Neolithic and Bronze ages.
There is no doubt that the invention of pottery, an item in human
progress whose importance cannot be over-estimated, is due to
women. Rough, coarse and unfeeling, the men of the horde range
over the countryside. When the united cunning of the hunters has
succeeded in killing the game; not one of them thinks of carrying
home the spoil. A bright fire, kindled by a vigorous wielding of the
drill, is crackling beside them; the animal has been cleaned and cut
up secundum artem, and, after a slight singeing, will soon disappear
under their sharp teeth; no one all this time giving a single thought
to wife or child.
To what shifts, on the other hand, the primitive wife, and still more
the primitive mother, was put! Not even prehistoric stomachs could
endure an unvarying diet of raw food. Something or other suggested
the beneficial effect of hot water on the majority of approved but
indigestible dishes. Perhaps a neighbour had tried holding the hard
roots or tubers over the fire in a calabash filled with water—or maybe
an ostrich-egg-shell, or a hastily improvised vessel of bark. They
became much softer and more palatable than they had previously
been; but, unfortunately, the vessel could not stand the fire and got
charred on the outside. That can be remedied, thought our
ancestress, and plastered a layer of wet clay round a similar vessel.
This is an improvement; the cooking utensil remains uninjured, but
the heat of the fire has shrunk it, so that it is loose in its shell. The
next step is to detach it, so, with a firm grip and a jerk, shell and
kernel are separated, and pottery is invented. Perhaps, however, the
discovery which led to an intelligent use of the burnt-clay shell, was
made in a slightly different way. Ostrich-eggs and calabashes are not
to be found in every part of the world, but everywhere mankind has
arrived at the art of making baskets out of pliant materials, such as
bark, bast, strips of palm-leaf, supple twigs, etc. Our inventor has no
water-tight vessel provided by nature. “Never mind, let us line the
basket with clay.” This answers the purpose, but alas! the basket gets
burnt over the blazing fire, the woman watches the process of
cooking with increasing uneasiness, fearing a leak, but no leak
appears. The food, done to a turn, is eaten with peculiar relish; and
the cooking-vessel is examined, half in curiosity, half in satisfaction
at the result. The plastic clay is now hard as stone, and at the same
time looks exceedingly well, for the neat plaiting of the burnt basket
is traced all over it in a pretty pattern. Thus, simultaneously with
pottery, its ornamentation was invented.
Primitive woman has another claim to respect. It was the man,
roving abroad, who invented the art of producing fire at will, but the
woman, unable to imitate him in this, has been a Vestal from the
earliest times. Nothing gives so much trouble as the keeping alight of
the smouldering brand, and, above all, when all the men are absent
from the camp. Heavy rain-clouds gather, already the first large
drops are falling, the first gusts of the storm rage over the plain. The
little flame, a greater anxiety to the woman than her own children,
flickers unsteadily in the blast. What is to be done? A sudden thought
occurs to her, and in an instant she has constructed a primitive hut
out of strips of bark, to protect the flame against rain and wind.
This, or something very like it, was the way in which the principle
of the house was discovered; and even the most hardened misogynist
cannot fairly refuse a woman the credit of it. The protection of the
hearth-fire from the weather is the germ from which the human
dwelling was evolved. Men had little, if any share, in this forward
step, and that only at a late stage. Even at the present day, the
plastering of the housewall with clay and the manufacture of pottery
are exclusively the women’s business. These are two very significant
survivals. Our European kitchen-garden, too, is originally a woman’s
invention, and the hoe, the primitive instrument of agriculture, is,
characteristically enough, still used in this department. But the
noblest achievement which we owe to the other sex is unquestionably
the art of cookery. Roasting alone—the oldest process—is one for
which men took the hint (a very obvious one) from nature. It must
have been suggested by the scorched carcase of some animal
overtaken by the destructive forest-fires. But boiling—the process of
improving organic substances by the help of water heated to boiling-
point—is a much later discovery. It is so recent that it has not even
yet penetrated to all parts of the world. The Polynesians understand
how to steam food, that is, to cook it, neatly wrapped in leaves, in a
hole in the earth between hot stones, the air being excluded, and
(sometimes) a few drops of water sprinkled on the stones; but they
do not understand boiling.
To come back from this digression, we find that the slender Nyasa
woman has, after once more carefully examining the finished pot,
put it aside in the shade to dry. On the following day she sends me
word by her son, Salim Matola, who is always on hand, that she is
going to do the burning, and, on coming out of my house, I find her
already hard at work. She has spread on the ground a layer of very
dry sticks, about as thick as one’s thumb, has laid the pot (now of a
yellowish-grey colour) on them, and is piling brushwood round it.
My faithful Pesa mbili, the mnyampara, who has been standing by,
most obligingly, with a lighted stick, now hands it to her. Both of
them, blowing steadily, light the pile on the lee side, and, when the
flame begins to catch, on the weather side also. Soon the whole is in a
blaze, but the dry fuel is quickly consumed and the fire dies down, so
that we see the red-hot vessel rising from the ashes. The woman
turns it continually with a long stick, sometimes one way and
sometimes another, so that it may be evenly heated all over. In
twenty minutes she rolls it out of the ash-heap, takes up the bundle
of spinach, which has been lying for two days in a jar of water, and
sprinkles the red-hot clay with it. The places where the drops fall are
marked by black spots on the uniform reddish-brown surface. With a
sigh of relief, and with visible satisfaction, the woman rises to an
erect position; she is standing just in a line between me and the fire,
from which a cloud of smoke is just rising: I press the ball of my
camera, the shutter clicks—the apotheosis is achieved! Like a
priestess, representative of her inventive sex, the graceful woman
stands: at her feet the hearth-fire she has given us beside her the
invention she has devised for us, in the background the home she has
built for us.
At Newala, also, I have had the manufacture of pottery carried on
in my presence. Technically the process is better than that already
described, for here we find the beginnings of the potter’s wheel,
which does not seem to exist in the plains; at least I have seen
nothing of the sort. The artist, a frightfully stupid Makua woman, did
not make a depression in the ground to receive the pot she was about
to shape, but used instead a large potsherd. Otherwise, she went to
work in much the same way as Salim’s mother, except that she saved
herself the trouble of walking round and round her work by squatting
at her ease and letting the pot and potsherd rotate round her; this is
surely the first step towards a machine. But it does not follow that
the pot was improved by the process. It is true that it was beautifully
rounded and presented a very creditable appearance when finished,
but the numerous large and small vessels which I have seen, and, in
part, collected, in the “less advanced” districts, are no less so. We
moderns imagine that instruments of precision are necessary to
produce excellent results. Go to the prehistoric collections of our
museums and look at the pots, urns and bowls of our ancestors in the
dim ages of the past, and you will at once perceive your error.
MAKING LONGITUDINAL CUT IN
BARK

DRAWING THE BARK OFF THE LOG

REMOVING THE OUTER BARK


BEATING THE BARK

WORKING THE BARK-CLOTH AFTER BEATING, TO MAKE IT


SOFT

MANUFACTURE OF BARK-CLOTH AT NEWALA


To-day, nearly the whole population of German East Africa is
clothed in imported calico. This was not always the case; even now in
some parts of the north dressed skins are still the prevailing wear,
and in the north-western districts—east and north of Lake
Tanganyika—lies a zone where bark-cloth has not yet been
superseded. Probably not many generations have passed since such
bark fabrics and kilts of skins were the only clothing even in the
south. Even to-day, large quantities of this bright-red or drab
material are still to be found; but if we wish to see it, we must look in
the granaries and on the drying stages inside the native huts, where
it serves less ambitious uses as wrappings for those seeds and fruits
which require to be packed with special care. The salt produced at
Masasi, too, is packed for transport to a distance in large sheets of
bark-cloth. Wherever I found it in any degree possible, I studied the
process of making this cloth. The native requisitioned for the
purpose arrived, carrying a log between two and three yards long and
as thick as his thigh, and nothing else except a curiously-shaped
mallet and the usual long, sharp and pointed knife which all men and
boys wear in a belt at their backs without a sheath—horribile dictu!
[51]
Silently he squats down before me, and with two rapid cuts has
drawn a couple of circles round the log some two yards apart, and
slits the bark lengthwise between them with the point of his knife.
With evident care, he then scrapes off the outer rind all round the
log, so that in a quarter of an hour the inner red layer of the bark
shows up brightly-coloured between the two untouched ends. With
some trouble and much caution, he now loosens the bark at one end,
and opens the cylinder. He then stands up, takes hold of the free
edge with both hands, and turning it inside out, slowly but steadily
pulls it off in one piece. Now comes the troublesome work of
scraping all superfluous particles of outer bark from the outside of
the long, narrow piece of material, while the inner side is carefully
scrutinised for defective spots. At last it is ready for beating. Having
signalled to a friend, who immediately places a bowl of water beside
him, the artificer damps his sheet of bark all over, seizes his mallet,
lays one end of the stuff on the smoothest spot of the log, and
hammers away slowly but continuously. “Very simple!” I think to
myself. “Why, I could do that, too!”—but I am forced to change my
opinions a little later on; for the beating is quite an art, if the fabric is
not to be beaten to pieces. To prevent the breaking of the fibres, the
stuff is several times folded across, so as to interpose several
thicknesses between the mallet and the block. At last the required
state is reached, and the fundi seizes the sheet, still folded, by both
ends, and wrings it out, or calls an assistant to take one end while he
holds the other. The cloth produced in this way is not nearly so fine
and uniform in texture as the famous Uganda bark-cloth, but it is
quite soft, and, above all, cheap.
Now, too, I examine the mallet. My craftsman has been using the
simpler but better form of this implement, a conical block of some
hard wood, its base—the striking surface—being scored across and
across with more or less deeply-cut grooves, and the handle stuck
into a hole in the middle. The other and earlier form of mallet is
shaped in the same way, but the head is fastened by an ingenious
network of bark strips into the split bamboo serving as a handle. The
observation so often made, that ancient customs persist longest in
connection with religious ceremonies and in the life of children, here
finds confirmation. As we shall soon see, bark-cloth is still worn
during the unyago,[52] having been prepared with special solemn
ceremonies; and many a mother, if she has no other garment handy,
will still put her little one into a kilt of bark-cloth, which, after all,
looks better, besides being more in keeping with its African
surroundings, than the ridiculous bit of print from Ulaya.
MAKUA WOMEN

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