New Zealand’s Sub Antarctic Islands

On the first day of the new year, I was on the uppermost deck of Heritage Adventurer,
holding my (1)b_________ as we glided deep into the sheltered Carnley Harbour on the
Auckland Islands. Apart from a few playful seals, the bay was the epitome of calm. By
contrast, in the open sea there were thrilling moments with the big Southern (2)O_________
swell, the roar of the (3)w_________, as our sturdy, heroic ship rode through the lofty waves.
It was to the aft deck that photographers flocked, their long lenses raised in an endless game
of 'catch the action shot’, chasing the (4)m__________ albatross, careening gulls and
shearwaters. . Bio(5)s__________ was a big deal. For example, before landing anywhere we
had our gear inspected. (6)C___________ is at the heart of ’Heritage Expeditions.’

Campbell Island, New Zealand’s southernmost Subantarctic (7)t___________, was our first
stop, after sailing from Bluff at the bottom of the South (8)I____________. I opted for the
track to Mt Honey, although several of us curved away before reaching the (9)s___________
to sit on a ridge to watch Southern Royal albatross. Plant life is strange on Campbell Island.
Megaherbs are (10)h__________versions of common plants – they’re bold, bright, audacious.
In marked contrast, around them, smaller feathery golden plants grew, while some pebbly
plants with tight formations and tiny flowers peeped through among (11)m___________
orchids and daisies. Spiky plants, wind-beaten and dense at (12)k_________ height, created
perfect shelter holes for sea (13)l_______.

Heading north, we sailed up the (14)e__________ coast of Auckland Islands to Port Ross
where we explored the site of Hardwick, a failed British settlement. It was extraordinary to
imagine the 200-odd people who came here in the 1850s expecting to find useable land for
(15)w_________ growing in a hospitable climate. On the northern edge of Port Ross is
(16)p___________-free Enderby Island. Our Zodiacs beached at Sandy Bay.To protect the
vegetation a sturdy boardwalk has been built right across the island. Bellbirds, tomtits, pipits,
and skylarks flitted about. On the far side of the island we came to dramatic exposed clifftops
looking out over the endless ocean. Light-mantled sooty albatross flew back and forth to nest
in the cliffs; shags, giant petrels and dotterel zig-(17)z___________ across the view. As I
walked back, yellow-eyed (18)p__________ returning home after a day’s fishing stopped me
in my tracks. As instructed, I waited for them to scuttle and hop into the undergrowth before
moving on. Encounters with en(19)d___________species were a daily occurrence. We spied
rockhopper penguins; the cute ones with feathers sticking up in the eyebrow area, giving them
a 'mad (20)p___________’ vibe. They shuffled and readied themselves before leaping into
the sea with great energy.

The closest Subantarctic islands to New Zealand are the Snares, called that because of the
danger they once posed to (21)s___________ ships. Because they have the highest possible
protection status, we didn’t land, but the Zodiacs took us close enough to see endemic Snares
Crested penguins and fur (22)s___________ playing in the kelp.

We then headed home. In Patterson Inlet on (23)S___________ Island, the sea was calm,
sparkling with morning sun. We were back in the 40 (24)d__________, away from the
tempestuous 50s. Here, there was less drama in the ocean, less tension in the line where sky
meets (25)s___________. Stewart Island felt familiar; we were back in New Zealand.