BUILDING WOODEN MACHINES Gears & Gadgets for the Adventurous Woodworker =~ 28 es Step-by-Step i] ss & pti e‘Copyrighted Material BUILDING WOODEN MACHINES st Gears & Gadgets for the Adventurous Woodworker Alan & Gill Bridgewater is ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material ‘Ths sumors and editors who comBEN tls none nave tried tm ‘make all the contunts as aocurate and currect as possitve. Plans, ‘mustrations, photographs and text have been carstily checked. ‘All Instructions, plans and projects should be cazetully read, stud- sed and undarstaod before beginning ponstruction. Due to the var- ‘slury af ioeal pumatians, construction misterials, ial levels, 6, ‘netiner tua authors nor Betterway Rocks assumes eny respans!- [bflty dor any anoidents, inurles damauescar otber lasses incurred ‘esuing trom tne material presanted in tis back Depicarion ‘We would lke to dedicate this book to all the men and women of {he past—invantors, anginears clockmskars and tha Wwe—mno Sent COUNHeSs DOUTs in WOrKsnOps-maxing Ue marines and ‘working models in wood. Weal know ahout Leonardada Vino! and {his elicogter, and Stevenson and nig ooa, wae who wast [wonder ‘home tha frst working modelo, say,the Net pamloex? Othe {ust pair of llersiates? ‘ACENOWLEDGMENTS ‘We would Iiee to tank all the mamunctarers who have supplied ‘us wlth th est af the best: ‘Tum Ettam, Procioent, Wood Carvers Supply, PO. Bor 7500, ‘Engiewood, FL34285-7500 ‘Wood Carving Toals ‘Jim Brewar, Research and’Marksting Manager, Freud, PO. Box ‘7B? 218 Faia Ave, Hg. Patnt, WE2 7268 Auster rare ‘William Welsen, President, Foredom Blactric, Bethel, PT D6S01 ‘Pemer Toals John F Jowan, Vice Pres dant, Datta International Machinery orp. 246 Alpha Dr, Fitshurgh, PA 15236-2885 want sar Mick Davidson, Managing Disector,Cratt Supplies Lid UE, The ‘BOM, Milars Dale, Burton, Derbysntre, SII? ASN, UK ‘Wood Taming em Frets, Marketiog Assistant, De-Sta-Co, PO, Box 2800, Twos, ‘ect anco7 camps Paragon Communiestions, Evo-atie2, Common ond, StatTard, STIG SEH, UE PVA amesive Frank Dootz, Punic Relations, Ryobi America Corporation, 5201 Pearman Dairy Ra, Suite, PO. Bor 1207, Anderson, SC 2e622-1207 ‘mateeness Planer ‘Most al, we would Ie to MsDK Friearicn Wimeim Emmerich 0 Fmenich Planes, Harderstiabe7, Remscheld, Germany — ‘for nis Beawtital wooden planes, They are special! Ityau are ooigng to set yourself up with tanest of au modern planes, man {these are the ones ta god ‘Commrigiied MaterialCopyrighted Material 4 Introduction 6 PROJECT * PROJECT 8 Circular Movement Centrifugal Machine & Impeller Pump 74 PROJECT 2 PROJECT 8 Harmonic Oscillation ‘Sector Wheel Bearing Punch Machine 17 Machine 83 PROJECTS PROJECT 10 Cam & Fork Flywheel Propeller ‘Machine 29 Machine 92 PROJECT 4 PROJECT 11 In-the-Round Pyramid Roller-Ball Combustion Engine 39 Machine 102 PROJECTS PROJECT 12 ‘Ward Lock & Key 50 Rack & Finion Machine 111 PROJECT 6 PROJECT 13, Reciprocating Pendulum Recoil Engine 56 Escapement —_ Machine 118 PROJECT? PROJECT 14 O11 Pumping Rig 66 Flywheel & Governor = Machine 130 Copyrighted Material ti ==> BS fw F &Copyrighted Material PROJECT15 Cam Machine 142 PROJECT 16 Steam Crank Slider Mechanism 153 PROJECT 17 Differential Pulley Block 162 PROJECT 18 The Excentric Squirrel Fan 173 PROJECT 19 Six Valve Radial Engine 180 PROJECT 20 Wheel & Worm Gear Mechanism 153 PROJECT 21 Film Advancing Mechanism 192 PROJECT 22 The Universal Joint 203 fa --- Camshaft Valve 215 PROJECT 24 ‘Water Lift Pump 229 PROJECT 25 Lever & Ratchet ‘Mechanism 239 PROJECT 26 Screw Jack 248 8 PROSECT 27 ‘The Bicycle Chain Machine 250 FROJECT 28 ‘The Wonderful ‘Wilmburst Machine 269 Index 278 Copyrighted Material a a { wih & 2 @Copyrighted Material Introduction >My grandpa used to tell my mather that was ana af thasa complicated sticky-tingerad litle bays who needed watch- ing! He always used to say that | wasup te tricks and lesm- ing. As Iremember, all this meant, in etfect, was that 1 was borrowing tools without permission, usually missing at meal times, and generally difficult to track down. It wasn't that Lwas in any way naughty of up to no good, but rather that [was always “inventing” I made a cross bow that was more @ Jethal man tap than a weapon, an electric alarm slock that couldn't be touched unless you were wearing rubber gloves, a lever mechanism for the gate that very noarly skinned and quartered the neighbor's cat, and sa tha st goes on. So You see, it wasn't that I was. horble ittia hoy bent on mischlet, but only thet I loved mechanisms and enjoyed working with tools and wood, Iwas never se happy as when Twas tucked away in the back shed hacking away with knife and saw on one or other ‘of my lahour saving inventions. ‘And of course, novrthat Lama man and fully gravm, ona ‘of my chief pleasures is being out in my shed workshon reaming up nave mechsnisms. But I'm not alone! Tha mi- raculous thing, the thing that makes our marriage sa suc cessful, is that my wife Gillis a soul mate, a true kindred spirit. We both get pleasura working with wood. Picture us A you will, out in our workshop, the radio humming away, ‘our two dogs fast asleep in a couple of ancient armchairs, ‘uugs of tea, both of us up te our armpits th a glorious ‘miaoma of tools, shavings, beeswax, wood and working drawings. Qurshed workshop is a havent And now that our two sons are out of the nest, it doesn’t matter toa much it ‘wespend most of the night working. It we are tized but still ‘willing, we simply settle down in the armehairs urith a knife and whatever part neads sorting, and drift and dream away the hours. The incredible thing is that at the end of it all—after hour upon hour spent sawing, planing, gouging, turning, whittling and waxing—we gat ta make the most ‘amazingly intricate machines and mechanisms, Our ambitions involve sharing with you the pleasures of ereating small machines and mechanical pratotypes from ‘wood. We want you to shaze in tha fun. The projects ara ‘small, $0 You don't need a vast workshop full of tools or a fortune in wood; all you need Is enthusiasm. ‘with aach of the projects, we take you through all the ‘wonderfully satisfying procedures of chaosing the wood, setting out the designs, sewing, plsning. drilling and all the Test. We give you working drawings and templates to ex- plain how, why and whatavith. There are drawings shaw= ing details, and there are photographs to explain the ‘various step-by-step stages. We have done our best to de- scribe all the procedures that go into making our working wootlen wonders. Each project draws inspiration from a specific mecha~ ism, There are twenty-eight projects in all—all exciting, all dynamic, all beautiful and all made fram wood, Note ‘At! moasuremonts are in aches, and the sizes allow fora ‘gencrows amonnt of waste, Tha cimensions tm tho eurting Itets ave givan in tho ordar tf thisknees, width and length As with any ‘wooden sculpture, the dimensions indicated are starting pois ‘only, Modily dimensions, spacers and parts as necessary. Copyrighted Material OOUCTION. FCopyrighted Material PROJECT 1 Circular Movement Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘This machine is amazingly interesting in thet it basutifully fllustrates one of the kay principles of herology. it shows how, in the context of a traditional grandfather-type clock, a pulley drum, length of cord and weight are able—like a coiled spring—to store up and provide enaray. ‘The movement is handsomely direct and uncomplicat- ‘Od, As the weight falls at a constant rato, so the drum-and- beam flywheel spins at a uniform speed on its pivot: Tha fascinating thing is that the position of the pill-shaped ‘weights on the beam dramatically alters the speed of spin. To set the machine into motion, the cord fs wound up. vwrith the crank handle, the two bear weights are adjusted 50 they are equidistant from the center of spin, and the non ‘weight is allowed to descend. It you have a yen w play around with heam weights, crank handles and pulley ol ‘weights, and it you enjoy a good working mix af woad tumn- ng, fretting on the scroll saw and drilling, thie might well be the project for you. PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a lack atthe project picture (right), the working draw= ing (Fig 1-18) end the templates (Pig 1-16), and see that we hava designed the machine so st can be easily positioned on the edge of @ surface. The idea is that the machine can be lecatad on.a mantle shelf or the ergs of a table in sucha ‘way that the bob welght can fall three or four fest lower than the baso of the machine, Although at first sight this project may look almost too simple to be true, I think it fair to warn you that turning the ‘beam boss with its integral pulley wheel and spindie, plus turning, drilling and fitting out the tong, sausaye-shaped ‘ob weight, araall procedures that call for a deat of patience ‘andl expertise, There are several points along the way that require delicate work if you are to avaid mess-ups, For ex- sample, the fit of the spindle needs to be just so—not too noes, not t2o tight, Also, the bob weight hole has ta ran straight and true. ifthe drill bit vaars a little off-center, you have got a dowal with a gash in the side—not a pretty sight! @ CIRCULARMO Copyrighted MaterialCopyrighted Material CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE @ Copyrighted MaterialCopyrighted Material CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE WORKING DRAWING Copyrighted Material FIGURE 1-18 ‘ata grid seala of ewa squares to, the machine stands about 197 Righ and site over 84° wide across the span of the baa rad.opyrighted Mate! CIRCULAR MOVEMENT MACHINE TEMPLATES: FIGURE 1-18 ‘The soaleis twa rid ‘squares ta. Crankhandle 9 eiCopyrighted Material 2* B12 piten pine iene B—"/4 pale wood dowel B+2+8 pine B= tel ‘wate woes dove eet CHOOSING YOUR wooD Although we went for pitch pine for the base, stand, but tress support and boss spindle, a length of off-the-sheit pale wood dowel tor the weight, and ods and ends of varl- ‘ous white wood dowel for the handies and fixing pegs, this, fs not to say yau can't go for almost any wond that takes your fency, There are two provisos the heb weight is best mada from a heavy, dense wood, while the bogs spindia needs to be made fram a wood that is straight grained and sesy te turn, Thatsaid—and:mindful that well ought to ba using nature-frisndly, sustainable timbers—you could go for a variety like lime, jalutong or perhaps aven boach. My overall thinking is that if the wood is easy to work, not toa expensive, free from knots, splits, warps and stains, and froma reputable source, i's the right timber for the task. MAKING THE BASE, BACKBOARD AND CRANK HANDLE ‘Study the working drawing (Fig 1-LA) and templates (Fig 118). Draw the protiles to size and make lear tracings oO Sat to work carefully cutting out tha nroféles. ‘Take the two cutouts—the stand and crank—and make Sure the pasition of all the hales is clearty ‘established with punched center points (Fig 1-IB), You ‘eed center points for the '/e"-dtameter spindle bearing at the top of the stand, the four l'/e-diameter hind holes that decorate the front of the stand, the/<" hale at the feenter of tha crank for the spindle, and the twa ‘ve~diameter holes at the ends af the crank forthe handle dowels. aa CIRCULAR MI ‘With all the center points cl With the appropriate bit size, Warning: for Safety's sake, |! the bit size ie greater than'/", have the workpiece held vnith a clamp (Figs -2 and 1-3). ‘TURNING THE BEAM WEIGHTS ‘Having established the ond centers by drawing crossed diagonels, mount the wood on the lathe, ‘draw up the tallstoc set tha too] rest at the correct ‘height, and see tot that all your tools ave within reach. ‘ake the large gouge, either square ended arround ‘nosed, and swiftly tum down the 2° * 2" squara Section af wood th tha largest possible diamater, With the woot! roughed aut, take the skew chisel and bring the ‘wood! to a smooth cylinder. Starting with the two beam disks, or pucks, and ‘working from right to left aiong the workpiece, FIGURE 1-2 (Clamp the workpiece secursty to the workable, and run the blind ‘holes in to the depth of the hand of the Forster bit, FIGURE13 ‘aves ploce of waste wood under the warkpisce—we uiea chest ‘of plywoed—s0-yon con dril right throngh the workplsce wthont ‘doing damage to the bit Tha waster also ensures that the exit ‘holes crisp and clean edged. Copyrighted MaterialCopyrighted Material meaning from the tailstock end, take the dividers and, ‘mark all the sten-offs that make wp the design, Allow about 'i" for tailstock waste, 1" for the first disk, '/«" for part-off waste, 1" for the secand disk, and then a tinal ‘stall amount for part-off waste. ‘with the twa disks carefully marked, take the parting tool and sink the waste areas to a depth ot about '/e" 50 you are lett with & core diameter of about /2" Taka sk chisel and use hs oo pin 0 Fe tis reste mies fork dik The ph nl ata tinh stn yt comets of was. Am or lay rude pote Te lard the parting west then med of sry comers and then founded och thy couldn (gs 4 and 15) ane nal newt trying omen wo he hate ie FIGURE1-4 ‘Tourn tt tho round showin, sa the shaw ches! Hat on te ‘workpiece, stowfy twist he to! unti the back or net atthe bade Ibogins tos, and then munis continncus neasp down and ound into the valley, FIGURE 1-5 ‘Moving turnod off facing shoulders, taka the pasting tool and ‘depen the parting waste te reves! and define the fat fare ot tne disk Finally, when yau have what you considers a Wall-matehed pair of disk-shaped weights, bring them to a smooth finish withthe skew chisel anda piece of fine-grade sandpaper, and part oft ‘TURNING THE INTEGRAL SPINDLE, CORD DRUM AND BOSS Check your wood over for feults and mount it securely on the Inthe. Aetna i mocha ig Fa cose crouse out pind ont the akew eis cottage erat nh en par dividers and mera eet hat maka the dosion Woking fom thatch eal a sal amour er talstck waste, forth sn tt ha drum fr theogt once ten he drm an the ost hons an thet chuck wast ace ene um with aiine ‘Take the parting too! snd lower the waste between the various step-off points to achieve the required ore diameter (Pig 1-8), For exemple, if we take that you ara starting aut with a 2"-diameter eylinder, than you mead to lower the spindle by */1°for a*/2* core, the dram by sbout '/s" for a1'/s" core, the area of spindle between tha ‘boss and the drum by alittle over®/s" fora “/at core,and the boss by #4" for a 11/«* care (Fig 1-7). ‘With each of the step- offs lowered to the required. epth, take the tool of your cheice—Titke using a skew chisol—and shape up the various profiles (Fig 1-8) ‘The boss and the drum and the length af spindle in botwoen can be turned taany shape that takes your taney, but the spindle shaft must be turned down s0 it is smooth fit in a /?-diamater hole, 1 yau can’t use a ‘e" del but, turn your spindle shtt to the nearest sizeCopyrighted Material FIGURE 1-7 ‘Low the step-otfs until you reach the care diameters ef." for ‘the pind, 17+" for the drum, about */«" for the longth of spindle ‘between the drum and the boss, and 3° for the boss. o When you hava tumed the various profiles tb size and shape and rubbed t ‘with.a scrap of sandpapet, carefully asa the tailstock sm.down toa smonths finish enter out of the w: nrongh th ‘nuindtu] that it needs to be a goad, smooth-Tunning tit Wig 8) ‘Ta part off, hold and cradle the workpiece in one hand, and carefully nip 1 chisel (Fig 1-10) ua ‘nally, set the rag-mulfled spindle in the jaws of the quck—the rag being used to protect the spindle from crush damage~and sand the part-off point down to a ‘smooth finish th the tag of the skew MAKING AND LOADING THE BOR WEIGHT Before you put Working drawing (Fig I-lA) and templates (Fig 74 Note how the weight needs ta i long and thn so it can pass hetween the stand and the spinning beam weights, ‘wihileat the same tima ft must he haavy. Consider how we ddriiled out a length of /-diameter davrel and loadad st ‘with lengths cut from a 6" nail thor look at the i ‘Take your 6" length of ?/“"-diameter dowel and chock it over for faults, it is warped, split, stained, less than perfect, or in. any wa ct anothar plore, FIGURE LS ‘The partially turned workpines, showing (from left to right) me ‘base, long et decorative splnte, dram and oploie shaft. Wet ‘at, a this stage, we wore still undecided as tow we wanted ‘the boss to be finally shaped. = FIGURE1-8 ‘With the workplace stil secure ia the jaws ofthe chuck, draw ‘back tno taflstoek and have a trial iting of the spindle shaft ‘through the bearing hole, Be very carafal not to fot the turning off-center, FIGURE 1-10 (When you have achieved what you consider is a good, watl- ‘iniahad turning, ze the to ot the shew ehieal te part oft trom ‘the Inthe, Re careful that tha toe of the chisel dacsa't slip between ‘the workpiece and tool rest Copyrighted MaterialFIGURE 1-11 ‘Secure the dowel soit is perfectly aligned with the drill and run .4¢<"-dlamaotar hole down to the fall depth of the Bit. Do this from ‘oth ends of te deat, ra Copyrighted Material Run a?/s'-diameter hole down through the length af the dowel, Bore the hole down into ana ¢nd—to the Tull length of the Bt—and then turn he wood aver and repeat the procedure tor tha other end (Fig 1-1). ‘With the holes in place—either right thrawgh the dowel ar at least a good way into each end—cut one ormore lengths trom a 6" nei, and load it to within about a/¢" of the ends Push alength of split and glued®/s* dawel into the end hole~hoth ends~tap 2 shaved wedge into the lita stopper, and put itto one sida to dry (Fig 1-12 right, One end at a time, secure the loaded dowel in the iaws of the lathe chuck, and use the skew chisel and the graded sanddpapers to tum it down ta a round-ended. shape—tike a torpedo (Fig I-12 left). Finally, cut and tinish all the secandary components: the buttress at the back of the stand and all the tittle pins and pegs. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING With all the component parts meticulausly cut and worked (Pig 1-18), and with all unglued surfaces Lightly otled, sat the stand on the base saitis flush with the front edge and aligned withthe center line, and draw in.couple of disctwet elignment marks OVEMENT MACHINE 38Copyrighted Clamp the stand lightly to the bese, and run 1/¥-dlameter peg-tixing Roles down at an angie— ‘tyrough the feet and on into the bage, The Best procedure {sto dri one foot, secure it with a peg, and then repeat the technique far the other side, Re aware that because the feet are shart grained, they are relatively tragie. Note don’ glue the pege at this tral itting stage ‘Take the huttress piece and sat it firmly against the back of the-stand, When you feel there is good, tight, right-angle coming-together af the three components, fit with.» dowel (Fig 1-14), ‘Take the boss spindle and the beam waights and, one piece at a time, secure them in an appropriate sslamp-and-bleck jig Drill out the 4e'-diameter holes for the besm rod. Make sure the holes are aligned at right ‘angles to the run of the gran Dritl two '/="-diameter hholes—one into the drum for fixing the cord and the ‘other through the side of the erank and inte the spindle (ig 1-15), ‘When you have fitted the stand to the base and the spindle is sitting eamfartably in place at the tap at the stand, pusia fit the '/«"beam dowel through the boss (Pigs 116, 117 and 118}. set the weights on the bear. fit, the langth of fine cord and the weight, and then havea trial run. Copyrighted Material FIGURE 114 Fit and fix the stand ta thease, ‘and thon brace with the buttress, FIGURE 115 ‘Build clamp-and Block jigs far the difticalt-to-hotd componente that need tobe drilled. Minimize the risk of splitting the wood by having the Doles vet aerees the mum of the grain. PROBLEM SOLVING "The whole success ofthis project hinpas om the spindle shatt ‘big a month frictian-fes tt torough the top-of-stand ‘beating hole Try waxing the contsctsuriscas, FIGURE 1-17 Pass tha shaft through the bearing hole, set tn cram on the shaft and fit andthe wits round toothpick. FIGURE 1-18 Fitthe wight an the and of tha cord, and nae trial mum. I need ba reduce the ‘ction by waxing the shaft amd all the other maving mating faces. MaterialCopyrighted Material PROJECT 2 Harmonic Oscillation Punch Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘The oscillation punch macht gem to make With its intriguing movemant and attractive structure, tts the sort ‘bf machine that is just asking tobe set inte action! As to the name of this maching itis not sa easy tacoma up with 2 clear-cut definition or meaning. OK, no prablem ‘with the term oscillation punch—it simply describes tha up-and-down punch action that is created by the osciliat (de-to-side. movement of the sector weight—but ne tartn harmonicis a bit afastickler, [reckon it ing to do with symmetrical, harmonic frequency, ot sure. Have you got any ide ‘The best way to operate this machine is to nut ye forefinger in the sector weight hole and to {liek it rapidly from side to side, If everything ie right, the swift side-ta- side movement should result in the punch joggting up down. PROJECT OVERVIEW Have 6 look at the working drawing (Fig 2-14), the tem: lates (Fig 2-18) and the various photographs, and youl ‘pee that this project is somewhat complicated in that it is made up of a large number of small moving pasts. This is not to say that each component is in itself difficult to cut— far from {t—but rather that the sum total of putting al the 3 require alot of thinking and a tot of Study the working drawing (Fig 2-14), and consider how the mechine {s made up of the primary units; a hasa vith @ low, glue-tived hackhoard, 8 high, round-tapped backboard with a pivot rod location slot and various pivot holes, a plate and spacer to hald tha sector, the swinging sector weight itself, the connecting rod, the pivoted crass head joint and punch, and the bracket In action, ag the sector weight awrings to the side, the ing rad rises, which in f supporting bracket. And, of course, as the sector comes ta Test in the midpasition, the punch goes dave in its bracket. The best bit about cha action, meaning the way the parts move. is the way the loose-fit crosshead joint at the bottom nf the connecting rod is kept in place by the pivot pin that passes through the unit and into the backboard slot lifts the punch in its Copyrighted Material’ = " c "7HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 48 HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINECopyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE‘Copyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 0 HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE ‘Commrigiied MaterialCopyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 2-1A, ‘Ata grldscale at twosquares to, mamacaine stands ‘abowt 017" high and &" whee ‘acrosstha span af the base. HARMONIC OSCILLATIONDUNCHMACHINE: HL ‘Copsrighied MatetialCopyrighted Material HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 2-18 ‘Tho scale is four geld squares (oY Mot tut wanave ony mastratee tasaimenat-tn- ‘visualize components. A Toll round-tored badder. 2 Specer 0 From plate DD Crosebead joint Bracket F Sector weight © Comecting sd ‘Conmsrighied Matetial‘Copyrighted Material (CUTTING LIST A Tatjsund topped ecknaara asso CHOOSING YOUR WOOD ‘Wedertded to emphasize and draw attention to the various parte by using two strang-grained fancy woods. We usod Spanish olive for the hortzontsl backboard, the comecting rod, and the middle layer of the laminated crosshead joint, ‘andi a piece nf uncharacteristic English ak far the rest. MAKING THE BASE AND BACK BOARDS Having carefully studted the working drawing (Fig 2-14) and templates (FigZ-1B), take the two 6"-long lsces af wood—the oak at */e" thick end 4" wide, end tha olive at "/*" thick and 22/4" wide—and the 7'/s"-long, 3*-wide board, and use the pene!) zuler, square and ompassae to mark ell the Lines that make-up the design. Spend time carefully marking in the posttian of the center lines, the main pag and pivatholeg and any ther guidelmes you think will help you on your way When you are sure all the guidelines are well placed, use the tonls af your choioe tm cat the thras boards ta shape and size, Pag and glue the Jaw backboerd to rtahasa, chacke with a equere, secure with clamps, and put ito ane ide until the glue Ls set a Having cur the tall backboard out on the scroll saw, establishthe position of the twa top holes—tha ‘44"-diameter parvot hole andthe (/«'-diamater wedge-poy. ‘hole—and dill them on the drill press, mally, when you have achieved whet yau think is 2 good iit and finish of the three beards, sat tha tall backboard on the basa and draw in e couple of alignment marks (Fig 2-2) MAKING AND FITTING THE SECTOR PLATES Hava a good, long look at the working drawing (Fig 2-18) and photographs, and nota how this project 18 ‘perhaps slightly unusual m tht all the emall parts are cur cout on the scrall saw. ‘When youhave a clear understanding of how-tha Parts fit togather, talte the twa 5/:"-thick piaces of bak that make up the sector support—the spacer and the front plate—end use the compasees rular and enft'no. 2 ‘pancil to draw the dasign on the best-looking piece. ‘With the twa piaoas of wood clamped sacurely ‘tngather, establish the posttinn of the sector pivat hhole, and dil with the '/" drill bit Push alength of" dowel through the pivathole to hhold the two pieces of wood together, and cut the ‘wedigeliie shapa out on the scroll saw (Fig 2-8) FIGURE 2-2 ‘Mama sure tno backed 18 sot at right angles amd atkynod wrt ‘Maconterline. HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 23. ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material Have atrial fitting of the two cutouss on tha backboard (Pig 2-4). Pix the pasition of the wedge- ‘pag hole centar point, and mark on the spacer plata the area thatneeds to becut away With the pivot pin still in place, use thee" dri bit ‘to ram the wedge-pog hole through tha twa places af wood. Nate: dont forget to hack up the workpiace when, Srilling witha piace of sorep wood to pravent tearout. Having achieved two identical cutouts, teke the one thatis to be sandwiched between the front plate and ‘the backboard and cut eway the waste, the whola 2/"-damatar otrela with the '/"-diameter pivot hale, Cut a plece af.’ dowel ta langth—so it passes through the sector plate, the spacer end tha hackboard—saw a plot about '/:" down mto the end of tha Sowel, and Imtfe cuta shavingof waste ta fit ‘Align the dowel sn the wadge slot runs across the grain, end have a trial fitting just to soefthe wedge ‘holds the tenon in place in ite hole (Fig 2-5). CUTTING AND LAMINATING ‘THE CROSSHEAD JOINT ‘Jakethe thres pisces of wood thatmake upthe crosshead joint—tha twa piocas of oak at about '/i" ‘thick end the piace of clive at about Y/e" thick—and sandwich them togsther so the oliveisthe filmy and tha (rain rung vertically up and down, Mark the three layers “op! “middle and “bot! Draw the design on tha top hoard, forthe postion of the center point, and then tap a pin through the waste azea ta Link all thrae layers, FIGURE 2-5 ‘Aga the stat sot runs at right angles tothe grata, andhave a ‘tial ting of he weoge Irall scarrect,a push It shen be ‘enaugh to held the tone firm. FICURE 2-6 ‘Saw througn the thres-Layared stackte achieve tre identical ‘eutoate, Moto bow my beavy-handod mall ining Wary moarty resulted. ‘tn acomplote mess-1p—ith aspilt rumniag along the grain. ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material PIGUREZ-7 “ete, Run the 4"-diameter pivot hale through all three layers and push home a ganerous length of 3/3" sowel (Fig 2-6) go Werh all thres layers of wood held secure hy both the pin and the dovel, fret out the shape on the scroll saw. When you have achieved the cutout and carefully removed the dowel so you have three layers, mark on the middle layer the area that needs to be cut away a27). FICUREZ-8 ‘Smear Glas en:muating faces, align the Boles with the pivet dowel, ‘and than caratany clamp up. oO Cut away the waste, replace the dowel, and then gine and clamp the three layers ta make up the unit (Fig 2-8), When tha glue is dry, rum a ¥¢"-chameter hola ‘through the base of the companent, and hava atrial fitting nf the punch rad, MAKING THE BRACKET AND SECTOR Have alook at the warking drawing (Fig 2-1A) and ‘templates (Fig 2-IB), and seshow thetwo components—the bracket and tha sector—are simple {flstwood profiles that are cut out on the ecrall saw, ‘Take the */'-thick piace of wood youve set aside for ‘thebracket and use the panetl, ruler and compasses ‘to mark ellthe linge that make up the design. Batablish the position of tha punch rod hole, and run 1 through with tha3/s"-diametar drill at. Nota: be ‘munciful thet the precise position of the bracket hole, magning its distance frum the backboard, will relate to the finiehed thicknesses of the sactor, the connecting rod and ‘the crnssheed joint: If you are at all unsure as ta the finished size5 youcan make the bracket at a later sta cor youcan allow extra depth ta the-bracket, and than tram back wi, ‘When yowhave double-checked that all is correct, ut gut the bracket an tha soroll saw. ‘Take the pisca of wood for the sector weight—all marked aut and measured and with aclear cantar ine—end give it nother look-over, just to make sure the ‘three holes ara well placed Na problem with the 7/4" ‘duameter finger holo—1t can ‘be just shout anywhers on ‘the center Ime—but thetwo/#’ pivatholesnesd careful Positioning The top pivot hole must be at the center of wing, meaning at the center of the +/«"-dlemoter circa of ‘wood, while the cannecting red pivot hole must he centered ahowt’/:" up from the bottom of the arc HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE #5 ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material With all the lines and canter points in-place, and having carefully chacked for accuracy, drill the three hholes on the drill press—'/4" diameter for the twa pivat hholes and /.’ diameter for the finger hole (Fig 2-9). Lastly, but out the proiila on the sorall saw. MAKING THE CONNECTING ROD ‘Jake the '/"-thick piece of olive you've put aside for ‘the eonnecting md and markit with a canter line ‘that runsin the direction of the grain. Mark the line with ‘two canter pointe thet ere 1'/2" apart, and draw in all the lines that make upthe dasign—the twa 7/’ cucles and the 9A" width ta the rod. o Run the two canter points through with a /¥'-diemater dri bi, and then have a trial fitting to Unk up the sector and the crosshead joint (Pig 2-10). If ‘eed be,reduce the thickness and diamater of the battom. ‘endef tha rad so :t1 m goad, lone fit hetwaan the ears of ‘the crosshaed (Pig 2-11) Having cur the profile cutan the scrollsaw, take a ‘small, sharp knife and set ta wark whittling the straight part of the rod to a roundish section. The best technique (sto bet the circls lime tn with a stop-cut—on hhoth sides of the wood and at bath ends—and than to ‘carefully slice the blade into the stap-cut sp the waste falls eway If you work with a careful, thumb braced Baring cut, you wonthave any problems with the Inife suipping (Fig 2-12) BG HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE FIGURE 2-10 ‘Mave trial Miting of bet tae socter wrakgat and the parttathy ‘worked connecting rod. Adjust the various taickesses 20 tho moevoment is smeoth and easy. FIGURE 2-11 ‘Tomutmtze frictin, adjust the taickness of te wood at me ‘end of the rod and tnsida the ears a tae ena. Use & twtst ot ‘sandpaper tn eusare that the end-f-rod hole Is aleose fitonthe 17 ¢-ataqmotar dowel, FIGURE 2.12 ‘Deo. tight, Cam-braeod partag ext te who tne red te a round ‘section, Werk from thecantor through to the stap-cat: ‘Commrigiied MaterialCopyrighted Mater When you have roundad end slightly lawared the roundsection en the flat faces of the end circles tend slightly im relief, wee a scrap af sandpaper and rubs down the knife-worked areata a smooth finish, ‘Take the tall, round-topped backboard and mark, drill andeut the various holes andthe crosshead pivot runnerslat PICUREZ-13 (Ccese te parts ever fur Sizws and blecuishes. Tura a damaged ‘apo away po tho Naw is niga fram viow. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING When you have completed ll the component parts Sol hat makoup the project (Fig 2-13), thon comas tha fun of trying ‘to get everything togethar so it works! When you ere happy with the overall finish, glue and pay the Jow backboard to thehasaso it's at right angles It's important that everything is square, Sect hoard plac nthe bse esac FE rer raat cath whole wets together with a couple of ¥/\'-diamater dowel pegs (Fig 26) ae tu poge rnc cag ler es trod We tha daa weld to pevethetinittheswing of tevedor weight Slide the end of the connecting rod anta the crosshead joint, push the dowel pivot in place, and check for a smooth, caey fit (Fig 2-16) Iteed be, reduce ‘the wooden therod and, mn tha rad hole or mthe Jownt— othe mnvement is smacth running. FIGURE 2-15 ‘Sot tocemnoe tinged and joint iti place on tha pumen red, ‘and locate the dawel in the guide slot. ‘HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE 27 ‘Commrigiied MaterialFIGURE 2-16 ‘Set the joint in place on top of the punch red, and hold the two together with a round toothpick dowel, Push the punch dowel into place in the bottom of the Joint, and erilland fit with a round toothpick that runs through the whole width of the unit (Fig 2-16), ovis and apie sein nd nntngun it Sringe wth theminimamotieton a2) Use a dowel to link the top end of the connecting rod to the sector (Fig 2-18) so the dowel is a tight iit in ‘tha sector hole end a loose easy fit inthe rod end. TOW ee cnet tor tant tection ng 910) alt staat aay ne use 0alars ad aw When youare pleased with the fit, finish and function, glue the whole works in place, rub down all ‘tha surfaces with a sheat of fine-nrade sandpaper, wipe the dust, and give the project « wipe with the teak ail, PROBLEM SOLVING + Ifyouliko the dea this project but want change thedesign is important you realize thatthe relationship ‘between the swing ofthe sector weight and the lenath of the connecting rod is tical + youdeciie to moi the design end are et allunsure about the feasibility ofthe design, i's best tomake a ‘working medel 86 HARMONIC OSCILLATION PUNCH MACHINE FIGURE 2.17 (top left) Reduce the total thickness of the back face by about ‘Yet. Run a guideline arsund the odge, and man saw cut down, {nto the face—between the pivot circle and the sector face so the ivat aroa will be left to actas a washer or distance piece. (right) 1 you decide ta clear the'/" slice of waste an the band ‘saw, then ran adawel through the pivot hole ae you have a sate ‘handhold. Having ran a'/.* hole through the sector dowel pivot and followed through with around toothpick, sat the Aowel pivot in place in the backboard hole, FIGURE 2:16 FIGURE 218 Link the connecting redand Get the plate and epacerin ‘thocector woight with ashort place on thesector woight ongth of dowelso the dowel is pivot, and adjust foran aasy ‘a tight push fit in the sect moverent. ‘and a loose easy fitin the ed.PROJECT 3 Cam and Fork Machine PROJECT BACKGROUND This machine isa joy to makeand a joy to watch, Our dictionary describes a cam as baing a rotating eyl- inder with an irragular profile attached te a revolving shaft to give a reciprocating motion to @ part connected ta it” ‘With our machine, the off-center, or eccentrically mounted, disk is the cam, while the fork is the in-contact connection that gives reciprocating motion, When the crank handle is tumed—clockwise or counterclockwise—the cam revolves ecentrically on its ‘fixed bearing, with the effect that the fork and control rod oscillate on the pillar bearings. The fork is fixed on the rod, while the rod is free to slide from side to side through ‘tha bearinge. PROJECT OVERVIEW ‘Haye alook at the project pictuze (right), the working dram- ing (Fig 9.14) and the tomplates (Fig 9-18), and note that ‘tha disk cam is pin fixed to.a shaft in such a way that its movement is off-center. Consider carefully how, when the contained off-center disk cam turns, the fork has no option but to track and follow the cam protile. Although the design is pretty flexible—inasmuch as ‘there is noreason you can't chop and change various woad thicknesses and dowel sizes to suit your needs—the size of ‘thedisk cam, thedistance between the fork prongs, and the distance between the sice of the fork and the support stan- chions are all critical, That sald, if you have a notion to change wood sizes, i's best to sort out potential problems by making a cardboard-and-pins prototype. CAMAND TORK MACHINE a9CAM AND FORK MACHINE FORK MACKINE‘Copyrighted Material CAM AND FORK MACHINE WORKING DRAWING CAMAND FORK MACHINE. 1 ‘Coperighted Material‘Copyrighted Material CAM AND FORK MACHINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 3-18 Tho scale ts four (grid squares tox". ‘A Stenchions or plas Fok © Disk com, D compen B Crank, 3B CAM AND FORK MAL ‘Coperighted MaterialCUTTING LIST A. Stanchions 1345 tip or pillars B Por 99/4 mabowany @ Diskoan «2x 2mabogany D_ Cai post "x13 pitch pine = Crank ani PA mahogany ‘aco 1BA+7/ tulip ‘Crank handle and 1148 mahogany ent-of-s0d pills Rods 270 dowel CHOOSING YOUR wooD ‘This is one of those projects where you might—if you are pressed—reduce wood thickness to suit your steck ar your ‘wallet, Por example, the base and the stanchions could be @ bit thinner—aay °/." Inetead of 1"while the fittings could he worked from offeuts. We chose ta use mahogany for the cam, fork, crank, crank handle and rod-end pills, and North American tulip for the base, stanchions, and one or two bits and pieces, MAKING THE BASE ‘Take the piece of I’-thick tulip woad—the piece for the base—and with the grain running along, the length, use the pencil, ruler and square to mark it any a5", Fea inter ameter cts tha nave w eat ortecomer utes ig 914) Use els Your eine coon nee Buen ‘When you have cut the hase to size, use the giaded sandpapers torub down all faces and edges toa smaath finish. Pay particular attention tothe top face and edges and then pencil mark the underside. MAKING THE STANCHION PILLARS Draw the shape of the stanchions to size on the ‘work-out paper, and then—being mindful that the grain must run from top totoe—use the pencil, raler and compasses to mark the image on your chosen wood. Repeet the procedure so you havetwo identical meges FIGURE 3-2 ‘When using the scroll saw, control the rate of feed so the bladais, always prosented with the ine of next eut ifthe cut is ragged, the [Made is too slack or the wood is tac moist. Ifthe wood is scorched, ‘te lade needs changing or you are working at the wrong pace. Having doublo-chacked from pillar to pillar that tho circla center-points, meaning the points that mark the center of the rod hole, ara the same distance up from ‘the baseline, use the scroll saw to cut out the two identical forms (Fig 3-2). ‘With the cutout securely clamped flet on the work surface, take the /." U-section carving gauge and lower the top-of-stanchion “Iugs;’ or eer-like protrusions, by about '/«", Do this with both tugs on both faces, so when seen in edge-on view the wood curves down from the face toa thickness of about /-" (Figs 9-9 and 9-1A). FIGURE 3-3 ‘With the workpiece secured flat on the work surface—with a ‘clamp or up against a bonch stop—use tha U-section gougato CAM AND TORK MACHINE 38FIGURE 3: ‘With the workpiece supported on a waster to prevent exit ‘damage, bore out the /." hearing holeand the?/."blind hole, [Noto: we have removed the clamp for the photograph. ‘i ii Said a aaa decnatie date nd hel Aim a hina ole avabant doo (84) ‘Take your fine-grade sandpaper and bring all the edges to good order. Aim for edges that are slightly rounded, ‘When the tlme comes to sink the decorative cut ‘that runs eround the top of the stanchion, fimly brace the workpiece against the bench hook, and use the fine-toothed saw to sink the cuts to a depth af about ve (Fla 3-5). FIGURE 3-5 ‘Firmly butt the workpiece against the bench hook, adjust the ‘angle of cut so thesaw runs against the side of the hook, and ‘then sink the cut to a depth of about '/." 84 CAMAND PORE MACHINE {clamp the workpiece between 2 couple of stee1 blocks 20 itis ‘square with the surface and the dri! bit and ran the Ings through ‘with the -/«"dlameter Bit. Note: If you ike woodwork, you can't do better than sot yourself up with a good selection of clamps, ‘Wehave pincaraction clamps for amall wark, taggle clamps f ‘machina hold-downs, and a0 on. peg Having dried thetwo face holes, then comes the tricky task of drilling the fg and foot holes. say tricky because, with both the lug and the foot, the holes need to berun into acurved face, When you come to drill ‘the lug hole—an¢ bearing in mind that the dil bit will try to push the curved surface to one side—fhist set the workpiece square between a couple of hesvy blocks, and thon hold it in place with a goad clamp. Thic done, run ‘the’/."-diameter hole through the thickness of the Tug (Fig 3-8), ‘To drill he /«"-diameter foot hole, set the workpiece on a stack of scrap so the hole is angled in toward center. Use a long, shanked hit so as to avotd contact ‘between the chuck and the top of the pillar (Fig 3-7),FIGURE 3-7 ‘Make a simple wedge-and-stop jig to help you hold and support ‘tha workpioce while the hole is being drilled. MAKING THE CAM POST Have alook at the working drawing (Fig 3-1) and templates (Fig 3-18), and see that the controls, meaning the parts you turn, are made up of fixed post, crank crank handle, crank handle pin, or pivot, washer to distance the crank from the pest, disk cam and pivot rod. ‘Mark the size and shape of the post on your chosen wood—we use tulip wood—double-check the dimensions, and then eat aut the curvea-top tront view on the scroll saw. ‘Mark the position af the pivot rod hole, and run it ‘through with the Y/-"-diameter éril bit. It's important that the holeand the bottom of the hole are hath square and true with the base, so aim to get it right the first time around, Draw in the “feet”—as sean in side view—and then cut them out on the scroll saw (Fig 3-6), FIGURE 3-8 ‘When you have cnt out the little post infront view and drilled ‘therod hole, draw out the carved-foot,side-view design, and ‘complete the cut on theserell, ‘TURNING THE HANDLE, PIVOT PIN AND ROD PILLS ‘Take the length of square saction mahogany, establish the end center points by drawing crossed diagonals, and set it securely on the lathe. Having made sure you and the lathe are in good, safe order, swiftly turn down the piece of mahogany to the largest possible diameter. ‘Use ihe alviaers to mark all te step-ofts mat make up the design. Working from left ro right along the ‘turning, allow a small amount for headstock waste—sithor forthe chuck or for parting off—about /." for the handle pivot head, °/:" for the pivot, 2” for the handle, 1" far one pill,)/«’ for waste, 1” for the other pill, and a small amount for tailstack wast (Fig 3-94). FIGURE 3-94 Use the dividers to mark the cylinder with al the stop-ofte ‘hatmaxe up the design, ‘Working from left te ight slong the workplace, allaw '/." for chuck,*/." for the ‘mushroom head °/" for the pivat shank, 2” for the handle, 1 forthe frst pl, '/<" for ‘waste, 1" forthe secand pill, anda final small amount for waste, CAM AND TORK MACHINE 38‘Use the calipers to check the diameters against the working ‘drawings. Note if you are working with a limited numberof drill ‘hit sizes, be eure to adjust the width ofthe pivot shank to suit ‘your chosen bit diameter. Having first removed the bulk of the waste, use the round. nosed gouge and the skew chisel toturn down the wand to shana and size. Make rapeated checks with the calipers (Fig 3-88) ‘Tum and sané the string of turnings ta good finish, and carefully part off from the lathe. MAKING THE CRANK, HANDLE AND CAM ‘Take a’/"-thick piece of mahogany offcut and use a ‘pencll, ruler ana pair of compasses ta draw tne shape of the crank end the little washer spacer. Plan on ‘tha crank being about 1’ between centers (Fig 9-1B). ‘With all the lines of the design clearly established, first run /."-diameter holes through the crank and the spacer, and then use the scroll saw to cut out the shapes. While the drill is convenient, runa hole into the tured hendle to a depth and size to sult your turned mushroom-headed peg. non youake te bt ca, you cnet eu ‘Whan you have what you consider is a good disk— nicely sanded ta a smooth finish—nun it through with @'/.’-diameter shaft hole, and then have a trial fitting (Fig 3:10) 88 CAM AND FORE MACHINE FIGURE 3-10 ‘ave a trial fitting to make sure all the control column parts ‘come together for asmeoth-working fit 1 you have followed our directions to tha letter, you ‘will need to adjust selected nales or parts of the dowel shaft to achieve a suitable fit, For example, the handle pag neds to bo a tight fit in the hands and aloose fit rough the crank Than again, the dawal shaft needs to be a tight fit in the crank and disk cam, while being & loose easy fit through the little stanchion (Fig 3-11). Play around with the fit until you get it right. FIGURE 3-11 If need ho, sand the holes or dowelsto achieve an appropriate fit. ‘The tte pivot needs to be a lovee Ae tarough the shank and a ‘ight push ft nthe handle. MAKING THE FORKED FOLLOWER you havea look at the working drawing (Fig 3-18) ‘and templates (Fig 3-18), you will see that the forked follower, or frame, is cut from */:"-thick wood, with the grain running from top to bottom and the inside fork width being the same as tha diameter of the disk cam.Having drawn the frame on your piece of prepared ‘wo0d, give it @ good checking over just to make sure ‘you haven't made any mess-ups, and then carefully fret cout the frame on the scroll saw. If you takeit at an easy pace, all the while being, realy to pull Lack if he blade snatches, tne cut face will be so smooth it will oaly require the minimum, of carding, ‘Take the cutout and carefully draw diagonals to establish the position of the through-top rod, or shatt, hole. FIGURE 3-12 ‘Drilling the rod hole through the tap of the forked frame ts slightly tricky Inasmuch as while the hole needs torun squareand true, ‘meat drill bitsare too short. A good method is to establish the points for tha halos, clamp the warkpiace t= square fron ‘block, and than run the holes through from both sides. Hold the workpiece secure with blocks anda clama 50 the hole is going to be well placed and true, and run it through with along, shanked /s" hit (Fig 9-12).1If your bit isn’t long enough, turn the whole works around, and drill it through from the other side. ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING ‘When you have completed al! the component parts ‘that make up the design, thon comes the exciting Dut fingor-twisting task of putting everything together. You should have ten primary parts in ell: the hase, two stanchions, disk cam post, disk cam, washer, crank, handle, handle pin, two end-of-rod pills, arstops,anda ‘whole heap of dowels cut to size (Fig 3-13), Before you do much else, take the finest-grade sancpaper and rub down all faces, edges and comers toa smocth tinish, Give all the surtaces—narring ‘the mating faces that are tobe glued~a swiftrubdown with a omall emount of toak oil. Having cut all the rods and dowels to length, spend timerubbing them down with a scrap of sandpaper so they are an appropriate fit and all the on-view ends are nicaly rounded. Have all the ends standing slightly forward by about!/."-*/:". when you have generally brought everything to good order, start the fitting by pegging and agjusting the three posts. FIGURE 3-13 alt the componeat parts that ‘make up the project, check all the measurements against the working drawing and template design, and then sand allthe surfaces down CAM AND FORK MACHINE 37FIGURE 3-14 ‘Align the throe posts so they are true, and fix with the pogs. o Glue, neg and tit the disk cam, crank and handle, and carefully adjust one with another so they are square and parfectly aligmed (Fig 9-14), Slide the forked follower on its rod, and peg or glue. Slip the ends of the rods through the bearings so the fork straddles the disk cam (Fig 9-16). FIGURE 3-15 Slide the forked framecver the cam, and ft the other post Note ‘how the top of the frame has hoon roundad. 88 CAM AND FORE MACHINE ‘Whon you've finally put the whale machine together, spend tima ‘making sure all components are square and trus tovach other. ‘With all the patts variously giued or pegged in place, test for squareness, make sure the machine works, and then put it to one side until the glue is set (Fig 3-16). Finally, give the whole works another rubdown with the teak oil, and then the fun can begin! PROBLEM SOLVING “I you 1ke me Idea of this project but want rochange the ‘design, mo problem, as long as you make sure the eamand ‘orkare compatible. + Maving made the projec, Gil thinks the base and the ‘stanchions would look even better if they were cut from slightly thinner wood That sei, Tike thethickness ofthe ‘Wood hut Lam not sokeen about ts colorand texture, + Ifyou want to make the project but can'tget use of a lathe, setts for making the crank handle from a shop-boaght dowel, + Aste distance between the side ents o! the forked follaver -and the inside faces of the standsis cutical—the machine ‘wont work unless t's right—make sure everything is smooth sunning etre you gue up.PROJECT 4 In-the-Round Combustion Engine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘Although the in-the-round combustion machine is in es sence much like tha reciprocating machine, ac shown in projact 6, it is inmany ways all tha mora exciting in that it can—like a piece of sculpture—be seen and enjoved from all angles, The turn-handle movement attractively illus- trates how the up-and-down operation of a piston is con- verted, by way of a crank, into rotary motion (right) PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a look at the working drawing (Fig 4-1) and the tem plates (Fig 4-2), and see that at a grid scale of two squares to, the machine stands almost 12” high and over 6° wide across the span of the drive shaft, Consider that the greater part of the machine is made up of threo beautifully com plex turnings:the hase, which is dritled and hollow turned the quatrefoll top, which is both drilled and fretted halfway ‘through the turning stage; and the cylinder whichis tamed, drilled and then sawn. ‘Though the project is challenging, a lot of the tricky procedures relate not so much to your skill level, aut to your equipment. Modify the stages to fit your tool kit. OK, 80 it might take a lot longer, but then the pleasure is, inne doing! IN-THE-ROUNDIN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE 40. N-THE-ROUND COMaUSTION ENGINEIN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 4-1 ‘At agrid scale of two squares ‘to 1, the machine stands ‘almost 2” high and about of the hase. Pi hill IN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE 1IN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE TEMPLATES ae FIGURE 4-2 ‘Thoscale is two grid squares to 1". Note that we have only sown what weconstder are ‘the most difticult-te-visualizeA 2x77 easy-to-turn beech a = turn tip ct 2/e* 272% 6 beech D_ Piston md Wer l/e*S beech E Grankshaftbearmgs 1*3e= mahogany @ F Crank plates 3x 3*7ohomy Hani crank Taxa xB/e H_Kncb 2/6 dowel Standzedsand shaft 60°—/s" dowel CHOOSING YOUR wooD ‘This 1s one of those projects where the choice of wood is all important; i's got to be just right. We have chosen European beech for the piston and base, because it's easy to turn and yet strong across the short grain, and tulip for ‘tha top, because it's hoth easy to turn and easy to work on the scroll saw. MAKING THE ENGINE CASE AND BASE Have a good, long look at the working drawing (Fig 4-1) and templates (Fig 4-2), and see thatthe quatrefoil component at the top of the engine—we call it ‘tha engine or piston case—is both tured on the lathe ‘and worked with me saw and drill Note also the shape ofthe base. Bo the 2"-thickslabs of tulip and fix thecenter point by drawing crossed diagonals, ‘Mark the slab with a 8'/-"-diameter circle, Cut away the waste on the scroll saw or band saw. Screw the resultant disk on the 6” faceplate using short, fat screws, With the tool rest set aver the bed af the lathe, turn down te woud toa smooth 6”-diameter disk and true up the face. Use the dividers to markthe disk with a 2! diameter circle, and then tum down the waste so the a2" circle stands up as a /:"-high plateau (Fig 4-3), ‘Mount the drill chuck on the tailstock, iit the 1/0" Forstner bit, and run a hole through the center of the plateau (Fig 4-48). FIGURE 4-3, ‘Mount the Mank on thelathe, and tarn dawn the edge and profile. ‘Seohow 1 use around-nosed scraper for the inside curve. ‘Mark the lowered area with a couple of guiceline circles, oneat about /:" from the edge, for the postholeg, and one about °/.” outaide the plateau, forthe profileline Having iirst rubbed down the tuning toa smooth, ‘finish, take it off the lathe—off the faceplate—and set to work on the tumed face of the wood, drawing in all the ines that make up the quatrefoil design, Pencil lebel the turned face “hottom, fix the position of the four pasthales on the guideline circle—at £0° mtervals—and establish the shape of the cross-armns. Make the arms about 1/2" wide and all the comers and angles nicely rounded (Figs 4-1 ana 4-2 top), FIGURE 4-48 ‘ore out the piston hole with a Forstner bit. Advance and retreat ‘with the tailatock so as notte harnor clog the bit. IN-THE-ROUND COMBUSTIONENSINE 48FIGURE 4-45 ‘Maving drawn the quatrefoil profile, use the scroll saw to clear ‘the waste, tave the workplace flat on the cutting table oo the cut {nos aro at right angles to the working face. un the holes through with the:/:"-diameter drill bit, and cut the quatrefoil profile out on the scroll saw (Fig 4-48), ‘When you have completed the cross—all drilled and out—mount it on the expanding jaws option of the chuck, and set to work turning dawn what wilt ba the “top" face (Py 4-5). 1 used the small, round-nosed gouge and ‘ths round-nosed scraper. ub down the whole works with the fine-atade sandpaper Doone face of the turning, then tum it over on the chuck and do the other face. If you rub down one face as it points toward the bed of the lathe plus the ditficult-to-reach face hetween the whole piece and the chuck, you will find that the change of direction ensures that all the edges are well rounded. Having achieved a well-turned and finished componant, redo the same procoduras and tum tho each wood basa. That is to say, turn down the wood toa 61/2" disk and run a1'/-" borehole through the disk ‘Tum down the top-of-base profile so the underside rim of the cross is a neat fit in the hole (Fig 4-8). 44 DV THE-ROUND COMBUST FIGURE 4-5 ‘With the werkpiece held secursly on the expanding jaws of the ‘chuck, wae a round-nosed trol te turn down what will he the ‘underside of the casing. Goat itnice and easy, all the while being ‘mindful that this isa stage that needs ta be worked with oxtroma caution. FIGURE 4-5 ‘Tum ont the base hole until the neck of the top casing isa nice slide ft, ‘Take the whole works off the lathe—the turning on the faceplate— set the arose camponent in place ee) ‘the cross plateau is in the hole, and then use the four holes on the cross to drill four matching holes through the base (Fig 4-7), ‘Finally, remount the base on the lathe and drill, and turn the profile in much the same way as already described. Check your turniag against the working drawing (Fig 4-1 bottomFIGURE 4-7 ‘With the buse still screwed to the faceplate, and using the ‘quatrefoil easing aa a pilot guide, bore out thefour postholos. MAKING THE CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS ‘When you hava studied the working drawing (Fig 4-1) 0 you know what you are doing take the V’-thick place of mahogany andusethe pencil ruler, equere and ‘compasses to mark the design as seen in side view. With all the Lines in place, and having first established the exact position of the various noles— Doth the bearing holes and the postholes—bore the holes out with the /." diameter bit. Be careful when you run the posthales dawn through the 1" thickness of the wood; he sure they are well aligned and true, ‘Take the wood, all marked and drilled, and fret out the two side-view profiles (Fig 4-B), ‘Mark the plan-view imagery on the newly revealed cut faces, and then hegin shaping and sculpting with he scroll saw, xnite ana tube rasp (Fig 4-8). Continue whittling, rasping and sanding until you ‘have two well-matchad forms (Fig 4-10). MAKING THE CRANK AND CONNECTING ROD Have a look at the working drawing (Fig 4-1), templates (Fig 4-2) and the various photographs, and see that the crank is achieved by having two identical plates and offset dowels. FIGURE 4-8 ‘Seahow the postholos mn through the thickness of thewoed. FIGURE 4-9 ‘Use the knife, rasp and sandpaper to whittle the crankshaft ‘hearings to shape. Be careful nct to force the blade at the relatively fragt short-graimod areas. FIGURE 4-10 ‘Have repeated fittings until the compoxonts come together for a good fit Cut the */-"-thick cherry into two crank-sized pieces, draw the imagery out on one of the pieces, and then ‘ix them together with a single pinat one corner. Keep the ‘pin out of the design area. DY-THE-ROUND col STIONENGINE 48FIGURE 4-11 ‘Fitting the single pin and two dowols at the presaw stage ensures ‘that the two crank platos are identical mirror-image cutouts. ore and dowel plug the two /:"-diameter shaft holes right through both pieces of wood, first one hole end thon the other. Usa leagthe of eerap dowel. With the holes in place, begin fretting out the crank shape on the scroll saw. Work at a steady, even nace, all the while feeding the wood into the blade so the line of cut isa litle to the waste side of the drawn line (Fig 4-11) Having first drawa the shape of the connecting rod on the 1"-thick beach and variously fixed the position of the rod holes, tret out te connecting roa profile as drawn (Fig 412). Draw the side-view imagery of the rod an the sawn face, mark in the waste, and then slice it off on the saw (Fig 4-19). FIGURE 4-12 ‘While you are busy at the scroll saw, you might as well fret out ‘the connecting rod and crank handle. ae DUTHE-AO MBUSTION ENGINE FIGURE 4-13 ‘slice away the connocting rad wastes sean ia top view. Use the knife and rasp to shape tha connecting rod ‘Take your small, sharp knife and whittle the straight part of the rod to a roundish section. The best technique is to set the circle lines of the ends in with a stop-cut oa both sides of the wood and atboth endsand then to carefully slice the blade into the stop-cut so the waste falls away. ‘When you have shaped and lowered the round. ‘section so the flat faces of the end circles stand somewhat in relief, take a scrap of sandpaper and generally rub down the whole workpleze ta a emooth, slightly round-edged finish, ‘When you have finished fretting and shaping the connecting rod, and drilled out the two hales, go back to the crank plates and wedge the /-" shaft dowels in place (Fig 4-14). The dowels have to run true, so spend time making sure everything is aligned. MAKING THE PISTON Set your chosen square section length of wood on, ‘the lathe, and use the large gouge to swiftly tum, down the wood toa diameter of °/.” Ital is eorreet, 13/ ‘will be slightly larger than the hole thet runs through the cross-shaped unit at the top of the engine. FIGURE 4.14 ‘Slot and wedge the drive shaft stubs into the crank plate. Don’t calue at this stagFIGURE 4-15 ‘When you think the piston turning is to site, wind back the tails ‘tack and havea trial fitting. FIGURE 4-16 ‘Aim for a nice, smaothrstiding it. ‘This done—and having first set the calipers to the exact diameter of the cresspiece hole—take the skew chisel and turn down the piston so it isan aasy-slide fit in the case hole. The best procedure isto carefully draw the tallstack out of the way and then to try the cross casing on for size (Figs 4-15 and 4-16), Fit the tailstock drill chuok on the lathe, and use the 1V/e-diameter bit ta run a hele down into the cylinder (Fig 4-17). Puch the piston through the eeroll caw—or you might profer to uso ahandsaw—and take an angled slice from each side (Figs 4-18 and 4-2). un a pencil guideline up, down and around the piston, and drill out the /«"-dlameter pinhole— ‘through one side and out the other. It might be agood idea to plug the center of the piston with a length of waste to minimize exit dameqe. FIGURE 4-17 ‘Use the tailstock drill chuck to bore out the piston waste. ‘Advance cautiously so as not ts neck the workpiece aff-contor. FIGURE 4: ‘ave a trial fitting of the connecting rod small end in the piston. ‘The pinneeds to boa tight ft in the piston and a loose fit through ‘thosmall end. Have a trial fitting of the small end of the connecting rod in the piston (Fig 4-19). IN-TEE-ROUND COMBUSTION EASSEMBLY AND FINISHING erg When you havs before you ol ths componsnt parts that makeup the project (Fig 4-20), then comesthe itficult task of putting the machme tagether. Start by fitting the small end of tha connecting rod_ in the piston, Aum fora tight firof the pin through tha sides of the piston anda Jose fit of the'pin through the small end, [fneed be,rub cur selected holes or parts af the pin until everything itts just right (Pigs 4-2l and 4-22) When you are happy with the fit of the small end in the piston, take the two crank plates—complate with ‘thetr lengths of drava shaft dewel—and link them with a ‘short length of dawel that runs through the ig end hearing at the end of tha connecting rod. Make therod about 2" long (Fig 4-23). Don't glue at this stage. go One piece ata time, ft the piston in the crose- shaped casing, set the crankshaft hearing in place on the dowel ends (Fig 4-24), and sat the patr of bearings on the four support dowels (Fig 4-25). Pit lite pags t2 hhold the various components at the carrect height, Continue fitting and sanding and generally easing ‘until tha whole machine comes tgether. 48 -THE-ROUND COMBUSTION ENGINE FIGURE 4-21 Pass the short length of crank dawel throng the ig end, and ‘SuECK for an easy, wetl-alignedt ft, ‘Commrigiied Material‘Copyrighted Material Fmally, wip all nonglued surfaces with the taak ot glug, clamp, bumish the machine ta adull sheen finish, and. burrah—verything is fmished and ready {for showing! FIGURE 4-24 PR, check and ease the crandoshaft bearings. FIGURE 4-22 [FR tnocranck plates so there 18 small space between the plate ‘and the flat face of the big ond. FIGURE 4-25 ‘Sot tmocemponent parts in placo ax tho posts; and Rat them 1 Positian wea smal pogR PROBLEM SOLVING “ tryoutbe the tes otis peoject but want to change he ‘design, be mindtu’ that snot easy to redesign a single ‘semen fo ecto, Ts betng ea we MERE elwayEaavIEE ‘at yu mae prototype. + Ang time you are ordering wood, i's always a good ‘25k for won tot is wal aeasnaed and any but sane ‘more important when you ste ordering wear trang, FIGURE L-23 4 Wamsng: ating i cana yates toe ive at stunts ‘The crank plates nood tu have perfect mirror-image aligument. 3k that remultes aot afte alot at I-THE-ROUND COMBUSTIONENCINE am Copyrighted MaterialPROJECT 5 Ward Lock and Key PROJECT BACKGROUND When I was a Kid—I must have been about seven years old—1 was absolutely faccinated by locks and keys. Ac 1 ramamber, I spent 2 good anal of my time collecting keys, mending locks, and generelly showing friends and family just how easy it was to escape from a locked room. ‘Most of us are literally surrounded by locks; we can hardly move without first finding our keys, Yet. few of us know how locks work. The good news is our simple ward- and-tumbler locking machine illustretes all the essentials ofthearchetypal locking mechanism, There is a key,a ward toblock the passage of the wrong key, sliding late plate, and a tumbler thet holds the latch in place. In action, the shaped key io pivoted past the blocking ward knob, with the effect that, in its turning, it its the mmbler out of the ‘way and pushes the latch forward (right). So there you ao. If you want to know a little more about one of our most ‘common mechanisms, now's your chance. MAKING WOODEN MECHANICAL MODELS PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a look at tha working drawing (Fig §-1) and the tom plates (Fig 5-2), and soe that the locking machine stands about 8” high with a base slab at 8” long and 4'/-" wide. Note that we have reduced the workings, meaning the number of moving parts, to a minimum in an attempt, as it ‘were, to show the “bones‘" Of course, most ward locks have number of springs that bear down ona series of tumblers, but in the context of our machine we feel that a single heavy tumbler falling down under its own weight is enough to demonstrate the basic principle. Consider how the cavity has been constructed by set- ting a fretted front plate against a solid back plate. As for the overall design, we have consciously gone for a solid, easy-to-make good-to-hold structure. All in all. we have kept the fixings to a minimum so everything is in view. BO WANDWARD LOCK AND KEY ND KEY 93WARD LOCK AND KEY WORKING DRAWING Ma BYR CTL FIGURE 5-1 ‘Thofinished machine stands about 6" high and about er teng. (top) Late plate and tumbter at aecale offour grid oquares (Ghottom) Views and section at ‘a scale of two squares to 1" BR WARD LOCK AND KEYWARD LOCK AND KEY TEMPLATES FIGURE 5-2 ‘Thoscale is four grid squares tox". With aprojectof this ‘character—wnere success alga hin jaw eutor the placiag of a on the width of that these profiles are only broad guides. saCUTTING LIST A Box ront Vex 5 Boak Boxback vex 5* Bak B Tumbler etx? maple Latch plate +S/*5/.mapl D Key aah sS7achesty Base Tae a7 8 oak Pivate Pe dowel Decorative pins 2— A" daewoo! dowel Fang pins round toothpicks CHOOSING YOUR wooD ‘As this is a project that is best mede from a hard, stralght- grained wood, we have gone tor cak for the box and ase and maple for the moving parts: the sliding latch and. ‘tumbler, MAKING THE BOX AND BASE Have a good, long look at the working drawing (Fig 5-1] and templates (Fig 5-2), and see that the main structure is mace up ofthree pieces cf wood:a single slab for the bese and two glued and pinned slabs for the box. ‘With your workshop in good order, and when you are clear in your own mind as to the procedures, take the ‘thrap slabs of wood—for the hasa and the hox—and use a ‘penoil,ruler and pair of compasses to mark the design, ‘Mark the base with the corner radius curvas and the front ox slab with the single corner curve and interior shape ‘hat needs to be cut away. FE ove tnoas ney wore sil saben 2 tisk move othe aol sn and eae out out the Sinl rai cure Who you sro noting onthe inochi a hou uve hat atau he bate ‘Take the two-layer box slab, ease the layers apart, partially withdsaw the pins so the points are aut of hamn’s way, and then cut away the central area of waste so you are left with the protile that makes up the front at te box (Pig 5-3). ‘Align and repin the two hox stabs, and run the various holes through with diill bits of a size to fit ‘your dowel (Fig 5-4). Finally, take the two slabs thet make up the box, set, ‘them on the base slab, and mark in the position of the three fixing dowels, meening the three dowels that fix the box tothe nase. FIGURE 5-3, Having ent the two slabe of weod to the eame shayo, rot out the {front slab to make the latch box cavity. 84 WARD LOCK AND KEY FIGURE 5-4 Drill out all the primary holes, and have a trial fitting of the box ‘to the base slab,MAKING AND FITTING ‘THE LATCH PLATE ‘Take the front-of-box cutout, set it on the /."-thick ‘maple—like a template—and use a pencil to transfer ‘tha imagery. Having drawn me shape of the sliding atch pate to size and made a good tracing, use the tracing to prose transfor tho drawn imago through to the box chapo ‘you've marked on the maple (Fig 5-5) If you have a close-up look at the photegraph—in this and many other projacts—you will perhaps ‘wonder at thare being « great number of differences between our initial prototype dravrings, as seen on the tracing paper, and the actual workpiece, The project changes a bit as we work on it. It you have anotion that, such and such a shape or way af working is the nest way, then that is the best way for you. With the shapa ofthe latch plate clearly marked ‘within the shane of the box, and having made agjuustments to allow for easy movement, fix the position of the various holes and pilot piercing within the plate, and run them through with the '/«" drill bit (Fig 8-5) ‘When you feelallis correct, fret out the latch plate on the scroll saw. Don’t bother at this stage to cut the fine dstalts; just go tor Me main profit. With the plate partially cut out, wipe the edges with a fing-grade sandpaper ta remave any rough edges: ‘that might get in the way, and have atrial fitting in the lock box (Fig 5-6). The latch plate should slide neatly backward and forward without sticking or racking. MAKING THE KEY AND ‘TUMBLER MECHANISM ‘When you have completed tie basic sliding leton emaathly in the box, then comas the not-o of fitting the key and tumbler. Start by looking at the working drawing (Fig 5-1) and templates (Fig 5-2), and seeing that the key needs to be cut and worked so the end- of-key profile, ot ward, is able to pass over a ward stud that is set in the body of the box. acy business FICURE 5-5 ‘Having transferred the shaye of the hox cavity throught the +ye-thiek wood, sot to work transforring and modifying thelatch profile to ensure a emocth-aliding ft. FIGURE 5+ Fret out the latch plate, and try it out for size. I1it'stoo tight, it ‘won't move, and if i's too loose it twists and gets stuck—so go atitslowly. WARDLOCK ANDKEY $5.FIGURE 5: ‘Whittle away the leading edge of the Key soit fits in the notch o ‘thounderside ofthe latch. FIGURE 5-7 (Ont out the key shape on the drill and scroll saw, and whittle the stalk sa its an easy-to-tum fit in the "/<"sdiameter box hole. Having firet cut aut the baele ehape af the key blank Fig 5-7), whittia the stem ta a round section soit fits in the keyhole, and shape the leeding edge of the key (Fig $-8) so, when it is turned, it catches the notched. underside of the latch plate, with the effect that the latch slides forward. ‘The trick ta fitting the key is to trim back little by little, stop and have a fitting, trim back some mors ‘and 80 on (Fig $-9) until the movement fs just right. FIGURE 5-3 Continue whittling the leading edge of the key to shapeso when Whan youhave cut the key to good fit, then comes _it urna, it entohes and moves the aiding latch plats. the frustrating task of fitting the tumbler. It yeu look at the mechanism (Fig 5-10). you will see thet the little, shaped profile of the tumbler has two dowels: the one on the far right, which is the pivot, and the one at top canter, ‘which is a peg or knob. In action, the turning Key catches and lifts the curved underside of the tumbles, with the effect thet it swings up on its pivot, And, of course, as the tumbler 1ises, the peg is lifted out of the aotch an the Lop edge of the latch, and the turning Key goes on to move the latch, Once again, you might wall have to cut two or three ‘tumbler plates and play around witi the position of tha pivot hole and the shape of the underside curvebefore FIGURE 5-10 ‘you gat it just right, ‘Shape and ft the tumbler. Eventually the pivot poy needs to he ‘glued into the tumbler plate and held in place with around toothpick with the heelend of the pivot running back through the ‘hos. The other dawel isno more than a stub that sticks out atthe ‘back ofthe tumbler plate—to rest in the latch natch, Be WARD LOCK ANDASSEMBLY AND FINISHING ‘Whan you have achieved a smooth movement of the key tumbler and latch, take the latch plate back ta the duill end the scroll caw and finish cutting the other location slot and the two-pronged bolt profile on the leading edge of the latch (Fig 8-11) Having fretted out all the component parts thet ‘make up tho project, eproad thom out (Fig 5-12) and hack them over for potential problems ‘Whan the whole movement is smocth running, fit the ward knob in the back of the box, and whittle a Little bridge ward on the bottom edge of the key so it just clears the knob. The idea is, of course, that only your key will fit into the lock (Pig 5-18). FIGURE 5-11 ‘Maving established the position of the slot at the backend of the latch, go back to the scroll saw and finish cutting the profile, FIGURE 5-12 ‘The compenent parts—all ready for the final fitting. FIGURE 5-13 ‘with the latch being held in place with a couple of temporary dowel poss, fit the ‘ward stub in the back plate, and whittle the key ward to shape—uke atte bridge Finally, when you are happy with all the moving parts, fit and glue the dowels and pins that hold the sliding latch in place, glue and peg thetwo layers that make up the box, glue and peg the box to the base, and so forth (Fig 5-14). When the glue is completely ary, rub down, all surlaces te a smooth tinish, wipe the whole works with, ‘the teak oll, and the project is finished. PROELEM SOLVING + Ifyou lke the ia ofthis project you can adapt ito fit other sands of ocks, + When we designed iis project, we hd in mind that we ‘would cut and fita weoden loa! epring to frmaly hold tho ‘tumbler on the latch. Its still good idea: you could use a piece of sprinay wood. like bamboo. “This is ane of those propcts where you reedto hold back. ‘with the sandingunti the mechanism is up and workiag. ‘say this because you might wellneed to make several keys ‘or several tumblers before you get everything just ritPROJECT 6 Reciprocating Engine PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘The reciprocating maching beautifully lustrates all the movomonte that mako up the archetypal combustion on. gino. At the turn of a handle, i's plain te sea how the up- and-down mavement of a piston is converted. by way of a crank into rotary motion (right), It youare looking to make a relatively easy project, this isthe one for you. PROJECT OVERVIEW Having said the project is easy to make—and it really is— this is not to say you can do it with your eyes closed. Yes, the verlous cuts are straightforward, end no, you don't nsed a fancy tool Kit, but te cutting and shaping procedures ao need to be completed with care. For example, although the rotted cide runners can be cut on the fret saw—and this is swift and easy—the various layers that make up the sections of the runners need tobe carefully drawn out. ‘The working action is pretty to watch. As the handle is turned—either clockwise ar counterclockwise, it makes no difference—the crank tums on its pivot, with the effect that ‘the piston slides up and down in its runners. But don’t forget, when you are giving that sclence fair lecture, to ‘mention that the real-life in-car movement is reversed, ‘with the combustion pushing down on the piston and the rotary crank driving the road wiheels. 88 RECIPROCATING ENGINERECIPROCATING ENGINE RECIPROCATING ENGINE seRECIPROCATING ENGINE WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 6-1 om, 8/2" wie across the spanof the base and ai indepth. ie he Wed ry i erie = pita ere Gg Cena ATT 80 RECIPROCATING ENGINERECIPROCATING ENGINE TEMPLATES FIGURE 6-2 ‘Thoscale istwo grid squares toW". Note that, as with al the templates in tne book, me prota Alagrammuatie guide then, 0, it's always agoad idea to A Backboara B Face. © Aston a F Connecting re. 1 uttess,CHOOSING YouR woop It yoware anything at all ke us—Like most woodworkers, in fact~the never ending question iswhat to do with the ever growing pile of offeute. Yoo, it dose aeem a pity te threw aut ‘small pieces of exotie wood left over from larga projects, mnt ‘what to do with them? Well now, no such problems here. ‘This 1s a great project for using up odds and ends! After searching through our stockpile, we decided to go for straight-grained tulip for the base and beckhoard (it needs tobe strong); cherry for the runners, pitch pine for the crank ‘and connecting 104; mahogany for the piston; and dowels for the various pins and pivots. Note: if you look through the various photographs, you will see that tue top, back edge of the heckboard is sheped. Don't worry about it.1t'snotimpor- tant, I's just a bit left over from another project. MAKING THE BASE AND BACKBOARD Having carefully studied the working drawing (Fig 6-1) and templates (Fig 6-2), take the twa pieces of tulip and use the pencil, ruler, square and compasses to mark all the lines that make up the design, ‘Spend time carefully marking in the position of the center lines, the crank pivot hole, and any other guidelines you think are necessary. I!you are at all unsure ‘acto what goos where and how, shade In the areas that need ta ba cut away, Whan you teelall is correct, move to the scroll saw, and set to work cutting out the profiles. Having made sure the blade is well tensioned, run the workpiece into the saw so the blade is always presented with the angle of best cut and the line of cut is tractionally te the ‘waste side of the drawn line, 8a RECIPROCATING E: GINE ‘Drill and peg the backboard to the bese with the pegs mun inat a slightangle, check with a square, and generally see toit that everything is square and stable MAKING AND FITTING THE SLIDE RAILS Before you do anything else, wave another good, Jong look at the working drawing (Fig 6-1) and the soquonce of photographs, and soo that the pair of slide rails are achieved by being first sliced into four layars— two for each rail—and then marked out, drilled, fretted to shape and reassembled. Note how the order of work—first ddriling and pegging ané then fretting—ensures that profiles and holes match up, ‘When you have sliced the slide rail wood into four 4v-long,"-wide layers—two at °c" thick and two at alittle over °/:" thick—draw the imagery on one or omer of the layers. ‘With the four pieces of wood sanded down and clamped securely together, drill the three dovrel holes through all four thicknesses of wood. Push lengths o!'/.' dowel through the holes to hold the four piees of wood together, and fret out the total three-curve shape on the scroll saw (Fig 6-8). FIGURE 6-3 ‘With the dowels to hold the layers in place, carefully fret out the ‘shape of the runners, orrails. ftheblade starts to wander off ‘course, it's a sure sign either the blada is war or the tonsion is tooslack,FIGURE 6-48, ‘Having carefully yoncil labeled the layersso they are nicely matched up and you know what gees where and how, slice away ‘the ship of wasts from the back layer. 1's easy to make a ‘mese-up, so be sure to get it right the first time around, FIGURE 6-45 ‘The piston nocd to be a good fit—not 20 sloppy it tltsto the side ‘nor ea tight there is any friction, just an aaey, comfortable fit. Slice a'/.’-wide strip from the straight edge of both thick layers (Fig 6-44), and have a trial fitting, Label the layers so you know precisely what goes where (Ag 6-48), Having complated two identical, two-layer rails, carefully set the rails in place on the backnoard, and mark in the position ofthe six peg-fixing holes, While you ara at it—if you haven't already done it position of the crank pivot hole, run the holes through with the "bit and have another fitting (Fig 6-8) marie in the CUTTING THE PISTON ‘Take your chosen plece of wood and check its thickness by sliding it in the rails. It needs to be an easy, smooth-running fit between the rail and the backhoaid. It need he, reduce the thickness to fit, FIGURE 6-5 Drill the seven holes, and have atrial fitting f the rails. Aim to ‘have the rail pegs standing slightly proud, Note that the crank pogas shown is no more than atryeut. a the design on the working tace of your chosen. igce of wood, mark the center line, and fix the position of the piyot. Shade in the area that neads ta be cout out. ‘When you have double-checked that everything is ‘well placed—the profile lines and the position of the pivot point—go back to the scroll saw and fret out the shape |Fig 6-6). As always, wor ata nice, easy pace, all the while being ready to ease hack if the hlade starts ta bend or if the Line of cut looks to berunning away trom the drewntne, Finally, take a scrap of fine-grade sandpaper and rub Hown the edges of the piston cutout ta a slightly rounded finish to createa good, sliding fit between the rail tracks and the backboard, Iesimportant you go for a straight grained wood, and equally ‘important you mark the profile so the grain i aligned with the ‘contor line. This way of working onsures that therais azminimum of weak, short-grained areas, RECIPROCATING ENGINE 68.CUTTING AND WHITTLING THE CRANE AND CONNECTING ROD Have alook at the working drawing (Fig 6-1) and templates (Fig 6-2), and consider that the two ccmponents—the crank and the connecting rod—are first cout out on the scroll saw and then whittled. Bee ere design, fe tho pocition of the various pivot holes, and frot out ‘tha profils on the scroll saw (Fier 8-7) ‘With all the lines and center points in placa, and having carefully checked for accuracy, run the four '/e'-diameter holes through on the dill press, Starting with the connecting rod, take your knife and set to work whittling the cutout to shape, And just in case youarea beginnes to whittling, it your knife is sherp, and ifyou are working with an easy-to-cut plece of wood, ‘you won't have eny problems. Having once again studied the working drawing (Fig 6-1), templates (Fig 6-2) and photographs, take your small, sharp knife and start whittling the straight part of the rod toa roundish section, The best technique isto set inthe cirsle lines of the ends with stopcuts—on both sites ofthe woad and at both ends—an¢ then to cerafully slice ‘tha blade into the stop-cut so the waste falls away. It you work with a careful chumb-braced paring cut, you wort, have any problems with the knife slipping (Fig 6-8) ‘Whan you have shaped and lowered the round section so the flat faces of the end circles stand somewhst proué, take a scrap of sanépaper and generally rub down the whole workpiece to a smooth, slightly round-edged finish. Runa V-cut around the hig end to achieve the illusion that—just like a metal casting—the form is made up of two parts. ‘whan you are pleased with the overall shape and fe] of the connecting rod, follow through with more orless the same whittling procedures forthe crank. That isto say, set the ends in with stop-cuts, and then pare away the central portion sit is half-round in secticn. ‘Make sue the square, flat end stands slightly higher than. ‘tha rest of the piece, 84 RECIPROCATING ENGINE FIGURE 6-7 ‘Run the center line inthe directionof the grain, and then have ‘the profile sot square and symmetrical with the ling. e sure to ouble-chock the pesition of the dowol holes. FIGURE 6-5 ‘Work with « careful thumb braced paring stroke, all the while, ‘boing ready to byake if tha blade alipe ip: a razor-sharp blade Ja much safor ta use than a blunt blade that noods to he bullied inte action. FIGURE 6-3 ‘When you have completed all the component parts that make up ‘the project, spread them out on the work surface, and chack them over just tomake sure everything is correct.ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING When you have completed all the component parts that make up the project (Fig 6-9), then comes the pleasure of putting the machine together Having rubbed downall taces and edges witha sheet of tine-grade sandpapar, wiped away te dust, and had another trial fitting—just to make sure everything comas togother for a good fit—give all nonglued curtacos A wilt wine with tha teak oll, and put tha whole works to one side to dry. Glue and peg the backboard to the base sa it'sat right angles, and glue and peg the buttress in place. It’s important everything is true, so spend time checking with the ruler and square (Fig 8-10). Bee salls in place, check that the piston still fits, wipe away any excess glue and clamp up. Glue the three pivot rods in place: the small end rod that stands out from the piston, the rod thet runs out from the back of the crank, and the hendle or big-end rod ‘hat stands cut from the front of the crank, Wipe away excess glue, check aligament, and put the rods to ane side until the glue is set (Fig 6-11). Finally, slide the crank rod through the backboard, tit the fixing pin, slide the piston down in place between the rails set the connecting rod on both the crank rod and the piston rod, and ... the project is finished. FIGURE 6-11 ‘The movoment hingos on tha dowel rods boing carefully plac ‘s0 they are square with the working face. Make several chi (of Piston. (right) Crank. PROBLEM SOLVING + Ifyou lke the Idea ofthis project but want tochange the ‘sign, 0 prob, a ong as there is clearance between the ‘bottt of the piston end the united end ofthe crank ane botwoon he aquere ond ofthe crank and the baae aa fin 4outt, fs always a goad deato makea wanking model + When you ar ordering Tour wood, aways ask for wood that ‘s well seasoned and dry. say this because party seasoned ‘Woot is ukely to split warp or shrink, and damp wood is suffice 0 work, + Hiaying sid the streightgreinedtulp is suitabefor he ‘backboard andthe bese, this snot to say itis sultalefor the smal parts that ae to be whittled Ifyou have any doubts as to the sultabnityof such and such a wood for whuting tsa good ides to iy sample with your ke + Shop -bought dawelradis a problem inasmuch a2 the sizing is variable and unreliable, For example, my so called °/¢-tiameter dowel isa very ose fit in '/" bole, whereas ‘my 9" dowel is too hig fora" hole end a sloppy, Joos tit for 2° hol. This beings, it's elvays agood idea tocheck out ‘ourdowel supply atthe start of « proect,andthea medity ‘the project accordingly. RECIPROCATING ENGINE 68PROJECT 7 Oil Pumping Rig PROJECT BACKGROUND ‘We have tried in this project to capture the essential im- agory—tho towar, or derrick, coosaw beam, crank and nod. ing donknylike haad. The movement is beautifully diract: when the handle is turned, the crank revolves, with the effect tht the beam oscillates and the loose-pivoted don- key head at the end of the heam slowly nods up and down. PROJECT OVERVIEW Have a look at the project picture (right), the working draw- ing (Fig 7-1) anc the templates (Fig 7-2), and note that the ‘maghine 1s made up of six primary elements: a base slab, tower, balance beam at the top of the towe:, pivot plate that holds the beam, crank, and connecting rod. And, of course, ‘hare ara secondary slements like the donkey head and the various pins and pivots. ‘This project is ideally suited forthe beginner, inasmuch as it can be cut and worked with nothing more complicated ‘than a scroll saw and pillar drill. What else to say, except ‘that this machine is great fun to make and great fun to wateh in action. 88 CL PUMPING FOIL PUMPING RIG PUMPING RIS 67 ot Ki fIpaBOMOIL, PUMPING RIG WORKING DRAWING FIGURE 7-1 ‘Thomachina stands abeut "high and7” Jong. 7 (top) The gria scale ts four aera squares to 1. I (bottom) The grid eeatoia rife shin i twoeguarocte thay veh Be tery an eo CILPUMPING FIGOIL, PUMPING RIG TEMPLATES crank plateCUTTING LIST A Derrick tower t+ 6x7 tulip B Crank plate 1s3/ar2<2pitchpine © Center pivoiplates — 2—/«1/:* @ mahogany ‘D_ End pivot pites B77 = Wa mahogany E Donkeyneat: ses 2—"/=1*@ mahogany ‘center "an dn Boden F Comnectingrod Axa mahogany Gandia You *B mahogany Base Taxa 7 tui ‘Beam Ya* 18 cedar Pivot rods he dowet Pheing pins rotund toothpicks: CHOOSING YouR wooD Inthe context of this easy:to-make project—no wood turn ing or fancy earving—all that le required of the wood ie that ite easy to cut and work That said, what hatter woods to use than tulip and mahogany? We chose tulip for the base and darrick; scraps of mahogeny tor the pivot plates, don- key head cheeks, connecting rod and handle; cedar tor var- fous bits and pigces, and shop-hought dowel for the pins and pivots. MAKING THE BASE, DERRICK AND BEAM Having spent time stuaying he working drawing (Fig 7-1) and the templates (Pig 7-2), bringing your tools to good order, and genersily making sure your chosen wood is in tip-top consition, draw the design to size and make a clear tracing, ‘Take your chosen ’/:"-thick wood, note how the grain needs to run in relation to the profiles, meaning the shape of the base, heam and derrick, and ‘than carefully transter the imagery accordingly. The best procedure is ta first establish the position of the baseline and the center lings, ten fx the position of te centerpoints for the holes and curves, and then finalize tho profilae with the compsee and ruler, Having marked the base slab, beam and derrick, and being satisfied with the way the imagery relates to ‘your chosen pieces of wood, move ta the scroll saw and set to work cutting out the protiles (Fig 7-3). 70 CIL PUMPING FIG FIGURE 7-3 ‘Although beth the base and the beam are simple structures, this ‘sll the more reason they need to be carefully marked. tf you Aocide to redosign suchand such adeta, bear in mind that ‘smooth onry curves are much easier tocutand work than small, tight angles. Having fretted out the three primary profiles, move to the bench drill and set to work sinking the various holes that make up the design. Don't worry too much about the two large pierced holes in the derrick (Fig 7-4)—they can be larger or smaller or even placed ina different position: it makes no cifference—but do make sure te pivot and fixing holes in the derrick and beam. are precisely placed. ‘procedure isto run the bit in for about 7", then bring itup and ‘out and clear the waste, run the drill in another’/.",clear the ‘waste and so on until the hele has been ut If yon try te force the ‘paca and run the hole through in ane graat thrust, you risk ‘splitting the wood or doing damage to the dill bt.