BROMPTON BICYCLE - OWNER'S MANUAL

INTRODUCTION:
Before using your Brompton, we recommend you read the sections on safety and folding. You
should also be aware how important it is to keep your tyres well pumped-up: soft tyres make for a
lot more pedalling effort (which takes much of the fun out of riding), wear out quickly, and also
have an adverse effect on handling. We cannot overemphasise the need to keep tyres well
inflated.

If you carry out any adjustments or maintenance work yourself, do read the relevant section of this
manual first, as it's quite easy to get things wrong, and to impair the folding process or damage
the machine. If you take your bike to a dealer for any servicing work, wherever possible use an
authorised Brompton stockist.

Serial and Frame Numbers. The label at the back of the seat tube on the main frame carries the
serial number. The frame number is stamped on the main frame just forward of the rear
suspension pivot: it's a good idea to keep a record of both numbers. The serial number will be
useful if you have any maintenance or technical queries.

CONTENTS
Section A Safety
Section B Folding and unfolding
Section C Using the Brompton
(tyres, gears, luggage, lights, etc.)

Section D Saddle position

Section E Handlebar and control positions
Section F Wheels, removing and refitting
Section G Running adjustments and checks
Maintenance diagram
Section H Other design points to do with folding
(front hook, handlebar catch,
lower stop disc, cables)
Section J Lubrication and diagram
Section K Routine replacements
Section L Specification of spares
Section M Options and accessories
SECTION A: SAFETY.

1. Before riding, see that the seat pillar clamp is properly secured, and that the hinge clamp
levers are firmly screwed up.
2. Carrying the Brompton: it is obviously less critical that the bike is correctly folded than
assembled, but bear in mind that, if the machine has not been properly locked together,
unexpected unfolding of the folded package, for instance on a staircase or lifting it off a luggage
rack, could cause injury.
3. Do NOT try to alter the height of the handlebar stem where it enters the front forks.
4. Keep the gears properly adjusted, and brakes and control cables in good condition. Running
adjustments should be carried out as described in section G.
5. During folding and unfolding, avoid putting your hands anywhere that they may be trapped.
6. High mileage and hard riding: aluminium alloy is used on the Brompton and this has a limited
fatigue life. Failure in use can cause injury, so follow the recommendations in section K
regarding routine replacements of ALLOY components of the bike.
7. The Brompton is for use on roads and well made paths. It is not designed for cross country
riding: this can overstress the frame, and anyway the tyres and wheels are quite unsuitable.
8. When riding on fine grit, or on wet surfaces, the 16" tyres
have less grip: wet metal (such as a man-hole cover) is
particularly slippery. Also, in rain the brakes may be less
effective. Take due care.
9. Use lights, front and rear, when riding after dark.
SECTION B: FOLDING AND UNFOLDING.
If you have not had the Brompton demonstrated or explained to you, read this section before
trying to unfold or fold the bike. For those who are already familiar with the Brompton, part 3 may
be a useful source of tips.

Part 1: ORDER OF UNFOLDING & FOLDING - OVERVIEW.

a) UNFOLDING:
Stage 1: raise saddle & handlebar and (if a folding pedal is fitted) unfold pedal: these items can
be dealt with in any order, but they must be unfolded before moving on to stage 2.
Stage 2: unfold front wheel. The bicycle is now in its "parked" position and ready for use.
b) FOLDING:
Always "park" the bike by swinging the rear wheel under before folding:
Stage 1: fold back front wheel (right hand pedal should be moved out of the way if necessary).
Stage 2: lower handlebar & saddle and, if fitted, stow folding pedal; again, these items can be
dealt with in any order once the front wheel has been folded back and latched onto the rear frame.

Part 2: OTHER POINTS TO REMEMBER.

1. The seat pillar, when folded, is what locks the folded package together: it projects down from
the main frame, so preventing the rear frame from rotating. So, if the seat pillar is projecting
below the main frame, DON'T try to park or unpark the Brompton: also DON'T try to latch or
unlatch the front wheel from the rear frame, as this requires that the rear frame rotates relative the
main frame. Also if the saddle is not fully down, the folded package may fall apart when you pick
the bike up.
2. The folded bicycle can be carried by the main tube. Alternatively grip the front of the saddle,
but to do this a) re-clamp the seat pillar after folding (best with the saddle pointing slightly
rightwards, over the centre of gravity), and b) avoid pulling the padding away from the saddle
frame.
3. Turning the cranks/pedals when the bicycle is parked:
a) the left hand pedal should not be folded when turning the cranks, as it can catch on parts of the
rear frame;
b) during folding, the right hand pedal may have to be moved: to do this, the cranks can be
rotated forwards or backwards. However, when new, particularly in top gear, turning the cranks
quickly backwards can cause the chain to go slack or even come off. If this happens, turn the
pedals forward instead, or alternatively keep the bike in middle gear when folding.
Part 3: UNFOLDING AND FOLDING EXPLAINED IN DETAIL.
If you have not seen the Brompton being folded, you may get the impression on reading this
section that the process is difficult: it involves in practice only a few easy movements.

UNFOLDING, stage 1 - Saddle & Handlebars

(and folding pedal):
Saddle, fig FS1. Undo the quick release lever,
QR, under the saddle (swing it outwards and
backwards). Grip the saddle at the rear end,
and, resting one hand on the main frame tube
near M, draw the saddle upwards until it comes
to a stop: get the saddle pointing straight ahead,
and do up the lever QR (it should lie alongside
the main frame). In order to obtain a smooth
action when moving the saddle up or down, you
should pull or push along the line of the seat
pillar itself. If you need a saddle height higher fig. FS1
than normal, see section D.

Handlebar, fig FS2. The handlebar

assembly is kept folded by the nipple,
HBNIP, being trapped in the clip, HBC.
To release, pull the handlebar outwards
and forwards and swing it round and up.
To secure, make sure that the hinge
clamp plate, HCPL, straddles both
hinge plates, and screw up the lever at
HH, firmly.

fig. FS2

Left Hand pedal, fig FS3. If this is

fitted, unfold it by swinging the pedal
body, PB, outwards. The latch plate,
LP, will snap into position to lock the
pedal in place.

fig. FS3
UNFOLDING stage 2 - Front wheel, figures FS4 & 5:
Do not attempt to unfold the front wheel assembly if either the saddle or the handlebar is still
folded.
Unfolding or folding the front wheel requires only
a single action, described below: however, it's
a help to understand what goes on. The front
wheel/fork is held in place when folded by
means of the hook, H, passing over the tube,
CHS, on the rear frame. To release, the whole
bicycle must be tipped slightly back relative to
the rear wheel underneath it, so that the hook
clears the tube, fig FS4. The front wheel is then
moved out and forward into position:
during this action there is no need to turn the
front wheel - it should be kept pointing forward
(and slightly leftwards), fig FS5. Also you should
note that during this action the top of the
handlebar assembly remains roughly in the
same position, with the bottom moving round a
small half circle.
fig. FS4

You will find that there is a variety of methods

for carrying out this action, but to begin with
try the following: grasp the handlebar support,
HBS, lift it slightly (maybe lifting the main
frame or pushing back on the saddle at the
same time), and then, using a "stirring" action
move the front wheel out and round to its
unfolded position. No strength is needed for
this, but if you find the action awkward to
begin with, take hold of the front mudguard
with your other hand and help the wheel round
and forward. Finally, do up the hinge clamp
on the main frame at MH, securing the lever
firmly (leaning the bike to the right helps keep
the locking plate in place whilst doing this).

fig. FS5
The bicycle is now parked, in
effect ready for use: to unpark
(fig FS6), lift the bike by the
saddle (keeping the front
wheel turned slightly
leftwards) and allow the rear
frame/wheel to rotate down
and back into its unfolded
position. By controlling the
way in which you raise and
lower the saddle, this can be
done in a single smooth
movement: if to begin with you
find the wheel hanging in the
halfway position, help the
wheel round by hand or with
your foot. There is no need to
lock the rear wheel assembly,
as your weight, when you are
on the bike, keeps it in
place.

fig. FS6

FOLDING: stage 1 - Front wheel, fig FS5:

Always start by parking the bike, fig FS6: to do this, turn the front wheel slightly leftwards (if you
don't, no harm would result, but the rear wheel would clash with the front wheel) and then raise the
bike by the saddle, so allowing the rear wheel to swing down and forward to lie under the main
frame. The bike is now parked, and providing it is on reasonably level ground will stand up
unsupported.
It is tempting to start folding with the "easy" items, the seat or handlebars. The bike cannot be
folded properly if you do start with these: you must fold back the front wheel/fork FIRST.
Have the right hand pedal out of the way of the front wheel: best if the right hand pedal ends up
pointing backwards and downwards.
Unscrew the hinge clamp at MH on the main frame (three or four turns of the handle normally
suffice). Grip the handlebar support, HBS, lift slightly (maybe pushing back on the saddle at the
same time) and, keeping the front wheel pointing forwards, use a "stirring" action to move it out
and back round till it lies alongside the rear wheel (again no strength is needed for
this, but if it helps, take hold of the front mudguard with your other hand and guide the wheel
round). Make sure that the hook, H, has passed over the tube, CHS, on the rear frame, and allow
the front wheel assembly to drop (the whole bike actually rotating relative the rear frame). With
the front wheel now folded, you can move on to the other parts.

FOLDING stage 2 - Handlebars and Saddle (and folding pedal):

Handlebar, fig FS2. Undo the hinge clamp at HH (handlebar stem). Swing the handlebars down
to lie alongside the front wheel, and push home so that the nipple, HBNIP, engages in the clip,
HBC: alternatively, simply let the handlebars drop into position on their own.
Saddle, fig FS1. Undo the lever, QR, push the
saddle right down, and re-clamp the lever. During
this action, the lower end of the seat pillar passes
behind the plastic disc, LSD, on the rear frame: it is
because of this that the rear frame remains folded,
in turn retaining the front wheel in its folded
position. So if you do not push the saddle fully
down, it is possible for the folded package to come
apart when you pick the bike up.Folding pedal, fig
FS3. It is best to fold this with the left hand crank as
high as possible (i.e. with the cranks turned so that
the right hand pedal touches the front wheel): also,
the ridged side of the nylon latch plate on the pedal
should face upwards. Press the outer part of the
latch plate downwards, so that the inner part clears
the top of the bearing housing, BH, and stow the
pedal PB.

Front wheel assembly, other methods for folding and unfolding: the method described above,
viz. holding the handlebar support and using a stirring action to move the front wheel assembly, is
perfectly satisfactory. However, if you frequently fold and unfold your Brompton, you'll become
aware of other, easier, techniques for this stage of folding.
SECTION C: USING THE BROMPTON.

1. Tyre pressures:

BROMPTON high-pressure: Record (C-type, see note):

Recommended Maximum Recommended Maximum

FRONT 60 – 80 psi 100 psi 50 – 70 psi 75 psi
REAR 70 - 90 psi 100 psi 60 – 70 psi 75 psi
(Note: on the Raleigh Record tyres it is safe, because of the rim profile on the Brompton, to use
75 psi max. instead of the 55 psi marked on the tyre.)
The most appropriate pressure depends on your weight and
preference. On rough roads, it's obviously more comfortable if
you keep the pressures near the lower end of the ranges.
However, for minimum pedalling effort, use the higher
pressures.
With lower tyre pressures, the pedalling effort rapidly increases,
and the risk of punctures is higher: KEEP YOUR TYRES WELL
INFLATED.
A car-type valve is used, allowing various methods of inflation.
The Brompton HP pump is well suited, and can be kept on the
rear frame. You can also use a standard car foot- or hand-pump,
or an air line: with compressed air, say at a garage, the
pressure in the tyre will rise very quickly: so let the air enter in
short bursts, checking the pressure all the time. If you use a
standard bike pump with a flexible connector, you have to
unscrew the connector very swiftly to avoid air loss.

2. Gears:
Two gear systems are used on Bromptons, derailleur (left hand trigger) and hub gears (right hand
trigger). To keep things simple, follow two rules for changing gear:
a) when moving, keep pedalling, but take the pressure off the pedals while making the change,
and
b) when stationary, avoid using the left hand trigger, and for the right hand trigger, back pedal a
little to allow the new ratio to engage (if, when pulling
the lever on the RH control down, you encounter unusual resistance, do not force the control:
instead, back pedal and try again).
Always make sure that the hub gear-control lever clicks positively into place (and is not left in an
"in-between" position). And if your bike has a derailleur, do not neglect to use it: if you use only
one sprocket all the time, the wear will be uneven.
If transmission is not smooth in any gear, take action to remedy this, as damage could result.
Adjustments of the gear control(s) will be needed from time to time, particularly during early use:
see section G.

3. Operating the dynamo on the T-type.

To engage the dynamo against the tyre, either, if the dynamo is fitted with a lever, depress the
lever, or, if there is no lever, push the body of the dynamo down relative to its bracket. To release
the dynamo, pull the body of the dynamo away from the tyre, and the dynamo will latch off

4. Fitting luggage to the front carrier block.

The front carrier frame has an integral tapered

latch plate. To attach the frame, slide this plate
down onto the front of the carrier block: you will
hear a distinct click as the frame approaches
its rest position, an indication that the sprung
latch lever in the carrier block has engaged. To
remove luggage, pull the bottom of the latch
lever backwards (this projects underneath the
carrier block, just above the front brake), and
then draw the frame upwards and off: a slight
side to side rocking action may be needed to
free the luggage from the block

5. Parking the Brompton.

When you first start using the Brompton, you may be put off by the way the rear wheel falls away
whenever you pick the bike up. However, this feature allows you to park the bike instantly, a great
convenience.
When wheeling the bike up on to a curb, the rear wheel assembly may tend to start folding,
particularly when you have a load on the bike. You can normally prevent this by lightly applying the
rear brake.
If you wish to do without the Brompton's parking feature, preferring the rear wheel assembly to
stay put, tie an elasticated cord round the base of the seat pillar: it is often worth doing this when
carrying loads on the rear rack.
6. Carrying the unfolded bike.
Now and again, for instance to climb a set of steps, you may wish to carry the Brompton without
folding it up. To prevent the rear frame from folding, you need to use two hands, one holding the
rear end: but without luggage at the rear, you can pick the bike up with one hand by the main
frame and let the rear end hang down.

7. Wheeling the folded bike around.

The folded Brompton can be pushed into tight spaces on its rollers. You can also pull it around
with you, using the raised handlebar as a handle: this is useful over relatively short distances, for
instance along a station platform, but it isn't practical for longer distances or on uneven ground
(when it pays to unfold the machine).

8. Using the cover.

The cover comes with a saddlebag for
storage when it's not in use. If you don't use
the saddlebag for the cover, you may find it
useful as a container for other small
items.
The zip on the cover helps fitting, and
allows access at the top for carrying the
bike. If you wish to make a neater package
and also partially to cover the base of the
bike, pull the lower edge of the cover right
down, and then draw the pull cord tight.

SECTION D: SADDLE POSITION.

If folded size is critical (and you are happy with the saddle nearer to the handlebars) then, for
maximum compactness, fit a saddle adaptor pin, pointing "downwards".
With the saddle mounted in any other way, it ends up projecting somewhat from the minimum
folded envelope.

BASIC ADJUSTMENTS:
Height of the saddle: for the maximum height, draw the seat pillar up until it reaches a positive
stop (and for lower positions slide it down). If you wish to select a very low position, take care, as
the bottom of the seat pillar may project below the main frame and prevent the rear frame from
swinging between parked and un-parked positions.
Saddle angle is adjusted in the normal way (slacken the nut securing the mounting clip, choose a
suitable angle and re-tighten the nut: torque 13NM).
The saddle can be moved 30mm back by reversing its clip so that the seat pillar passes forward
of the bolt.
ADDITIONAL HEIGHT:
Riding with a saddle even slightly too low
is no fun. You can win around 15mm of
extra height by moving the saddle-clamp
up the seat pillar itself, and this might be
sufficient. If not, there are three Brompton
options which allow more height,
extended seat pillar, telescopic seat
pillar, or saddle adaptor pin pointing "up":
see Section M for details. Alternatively,
use another design of saddle, with
greater depth.
Note: if you do opt for a saddle adaptor
pin, don't mount it pointing backwards as
this could produce stresses for which the
bicycle is not designed.

SECTION E: HANDLEBAR & CONTROL POSITIONS.

The handlebars and control levers on the Brompton are factory set to provide a compromise
between compactness and riding comfort: for most users the riding position should be fine.
There is no vertical adjustment (see below), but there is some adjustment available in the fore/aft
direction. You should be aware that if you do choose to make such an adjustment, then the folded
handlebar will not lie as close to the front wheel as normal.
Handlebars or levers moved FORWARD: these will hit against the front wheel on folding, and so
prevent the handlebar catch from functioning properly: adjust the handlebar nipple as described in
section H.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you attempt to set the handlebar at a higher position by
withdrawing the lower part of the handlebar stem from the steerer tube on the front forks.
If the handlebar stem assembly has to be moved for any reason, then, on reassembly, a) leave a
gap of 0.5mm-1.5mm between the top of the steering locknut and the step in the stem under the
hinge, b) use a tightening torque of 20NM for the expander bolt (whose 6mm AF socket head is
visible when the handlebar is folded), and c) check the alignment of the handlebar catch (section
H).
SECTION F: WHEELS, REMOVING AND REFITTING.
If the brakes are properly adjusted and the tyre is well inflated when removing or fitting a wheel,
you won't be able to move the tyre past the brake pads. One way round this is to deflate the tyre:
alternatively, loosen the cable adjustor (if it's possible) or remove a brake pad.

Front wheel.
To remove, undo and remove the nut and washer on the left hand end of the axle, move the hook
(and mudguard stay) out of the way, and detach the special LH tab washer. Slacken the RH nut,
disengage the tab washer and remove the wheel (see note below).
To replace, follow the above in reverse, making sure that each tab washer engages the hole near
the fork end, and that the axle remains seated against the end of each slot while you tighten the
wheel nuts: torque 15NM.
Notes:
1. If the front wheel has not been removed for some time, you may find, on undoing the second of
the two nuts that the axle starts to turn with the nut so that the nut cannot be slackened off. If this
happens, re-tighten both nuts, then slacken and retighten the right hand nut a few times till it turns
easily on the axle; partially re-tighten this nut and then slacken the left hand nut, and finally undo
the RH nut again.
2. The LH tab washer is special: do not swap it with the RH tab washer.

Rear wheel.
Move the gear trigger(s) up to high gear and, in order to engage the high gear(s), move the
pedals forward and backwards. Park the bike.

Removing the chain tensioner, fig AR3.

For a hub gear, the control has to be disconnected: press the spring clip C on the adjustor A, and
withdraw it from the end B of the gear indicator; the indicator chain GICH will be left hanging
loose from the end of the axle and should be unscrewed from the hub and withdrawn.
Move the sprung arm, CTARM, anti-clockwise and lift the chain off: allow the CTARM to move
back clockwise until it comes to a stop; undo the securing nut CTN and remove it together with its
washer. The chain tensioner assembly may now be removed by drawing it sideways, off the end
of the axle (if a derailleur is fitted, it has to be tilted to clear the changer).
Removing the wheel, fig AR4.
Slacken the axle mounting nuts. For hub gears at least 4 or 5 turns are needed, so that the
tab-washers TA can disengage from their slots, SL2: you may need to prise these tab-washers
out with a small screw-driver.

Fitting the wheel.

Make sure that the chain passes round the rear sprocket. Drop the axle into the slots, with any
tab-washers TA the correct way round (i.e. tabs aligned with slots SL2). Make sure that the axle
is seated, at each end, against the end of the slot, SL1, and do up the wheel nuts, torque 22NM.
Fitting the chain tensioner:
First arrange the chain so that it is running true over both chainwheel and rear sprocket (for a
derailleur, the outer sprocket); next note that the chain tensioner body has two flanges on its inner
face - these should pass either side of the axle plate when fitting the chain tensioner.
For a non-derailleur bike, address the chain tensioner to the axle plate and press home, making
sure that the chain passes between the fixed idler sprocket CTIDL and the rear sprocket.
For a derailleur bike, the chain and the fixed idler
on the chain-tensioner-base, CTIDLB, have to lie
between the "uprights" of the chain-pusher-plate.
So, with the LH trigger up and the chain-tensioner
inclined slightly outwards as in fig DR14 (chain
not shown in this figure), feed the idler CTIDLB
between these uprights, and then feed the
chain-tensioner base onto the rear axle plate till it
abuts squarely.
Next secure the chain tensioner using the chain tensioner nut CTN and its washer CTW. This nut
should not be done up too tightly: somewhat more than hand tight suffices, max torque 8NM.
Now draw up the slack in the chain and feed it over the idler wheel on the sprung arm CTARM -
check that the chain is flowing correctly by turning the cranks.
For a hub gear, the control has to be reconnected. Screw the indicator chain GICH into the hub,
and make sure it is fully screwed home, then unwind through not more than half a turn so that it
points towards the gear cable. Next connect the adjustor A to the indicator chain and, with the
bike unfolded, make sure that it is correctly adjusted (see section G).

SECTION G: RUNNING ADJUSTMENTS & CHECKS.

It is important that certain of the jobs listed here are carried out at least once, if not two or three
times, during the first few hundred miles of use when parts are bedding in (see chart on centre
page). Thereafter, except for brake adjustment, they need to be carried out less and less
frequently. If you are not confident about carrying out these jobs yourself, your dealer can help.

Hub Gear adjustment:

The aim is to make sure that the indicator chain down at the end of the rear axle moves to the
correct position in response to moving the trigger. For this the cable has to be running well: it
must be free of kinks or sharp radii, with the cable pulley rolling freely.
Adjustment of gears must be carried out with the bike FULLY UNFOLDED (i.e. NOT parked).

Also (fig AR5), if the indic- ator chain GICH has

been detached from the adjustor, A, for any
reason (say for wheel removal), make sure the
indicator rod is screwed fully home inside the
hub (and backed off not more than half a turn),
before connecting to the adjustor.
While setting hub gears, always back and
forward pedal a bit before checking a setting,
and back pedal while changing gear. The cable
is made tighter by pushing the adjustor further
onto the grooved end B of the indicator chain: to
obtain a looser setting, the spring clip C has to
be depressed.
You can usually get things right first time by moving the trigger into the top gear, pulling on the
adjustor (away from the pulley housing CPULA), and then feeding the grooved end B of the
indicator chain into the adjustor until it is just not loose, i.e. WITHOUT pulling the indicator chain
out of the axle at all.
The setting is correct when
a) with the trigger in top ("3"), the cable is just slack, in other words neither flopping around at all
nor taut (if, when you try pulling the adjustor away from the CPULA, you can see any movement of
the indicator chain back into the axle where it enters it, then the setting is too tight).
b) with the trigger in low ("1"), the indicator chain (where it enters the end of the axle) should either
move not at all, or perhaps up to 1mm, when you pull the adjustor towards the CPULA (if it moves
more than this, then the setting is probably too loose: on the other hand, if, while back-pedalling
and moving the trigger slowly from position 2 to 1, you see that the indicator chain stops moving
out of the end of the axle before the trigger has clicked into position 1, then the setting is too
tight), and
c) when pedalling forwards (under no load) and changing through the 3 gears both up and down,
all three gears are positively selected.
If you need to make any further adjustment, always select top gear and back and forward pedal a
bit first. If you cannot obtain a satisfactory setting, then the most likely cause is either the cable
not running freely, or damage to the indicator chain itself, where it runs into the axle end.
Otherwise, the fault may be with the hub internals.
Derailleur maintenance and adjustment.
For satisfactory gear changes and smooth running, two stops need correct setting, and two key
elements of the system have to move freely: the actuator (or "chain-pusher"), and both idlers on
the chain tensioner
Chain pusher adjustment.
Use the stop screws, fig DR9, on the
chain pusher. The idea is that, in high
gear, the inner face of the inner upright
IU, fig DR16, shall be as close as
possible to the idler wheel, without any
rubbing pressure while the idler rotates
(to give the slickest change with
minimum wear): when the setting is
right, you should just be able to see
daylight between the two while turning
the cranks forwards, perhaps with
occasional contact. Use a 2mm hex key
in the forward stop screw H for
adjustment.

The same principle applies for the lower

gear setting, only this time, fig DR17, the
inner face of the outer upright OU has to
just not rub on the idler, and the rear
stop screw L is used for adjustment.

Cable adjustment should seldom be necessary, as the trigger moves the cable twice as far as
the movement of the chain-pusher (an over-ride spring inside the dogleg DL absorbs this
movement).

Derailleur trouble shooting.

If the derailleur still malfunctions after adjustment, or if turning the adjustor screws has no useful
effect, and there is no obvious sign of dirt obstructing free movement, then the procedure for
diagnosis is as follows. Step 1, remove the chain tensioner: this allows you to identify whether the
problem lies with the idlers on the chain tensioner (they should be free to move in an
out 7mm) or with the chain-pusher. If the chain-pusher does not move freely, and the cause is not
obvious, try slackening the M3 screw slightly (there is supposed to be clearance). Step 2, remove
this M3 screw completely: this allows you to identify whether there is a problem with the cable and
the dogleg link DL (e.g. dirt on the spring, misalignment of cable and cable stops, etc.), or with
the chain-pusher (e.g. hidden dirt, seized bearing: you may need to remove the chain pusher from
the frame).

Crank axle bolts and pedals:

The crank axle bolts should be torqued down (32NM, use a 14mm AF socket) after the first few
hours of use, with occasional checks thereafter. Check also that the pedals are secure (torque
30NM): note that the LH pedal has a LH thread.

Seat clamp:
The quick release clamp (QR, fig FS1) should be kept adjusted so that the lever closes firmly
when doing the clamp up; if the movement is slack and easy, with little resistance, the seat pillar
will not be properly secured. As a guide, with the seat clamp lever forward (i.e. done up), the
adjustor nut AN should be tightened with a torque in the range 5-8NM and the maximum closing
force needed at the end of the lever while securing the clamp should lie in the range 80-120N.
The correct setting will depend on the weight and strength of the user.
Do not over-tighten, as this can cause damage. For normal tightening during the life of the
machine, a sixth of a turn or less of the adjustor nut will normally be quite sufficient.
If, after adjusting the clamp, the seat pillar slips in use, then the cause is almost certainly oil or
grease. Remove the seat pillar from the bike, and using soapy water, thoroughly clean both the
seat pillar and the sleeve in the main frame.

Spokes:
These tend to bed in during early use, and to lose some of their initial tension. which can cause
spoke failure (particularly for heavier riders). See that these are re-tensioned correctly after initial
use, and check thereafter.

Saddle clip bolt:

Because this passes through the body of the saddle, which is moulded nylon, some settling of this
nylon during early use may reduce the clamping force in the clip bolt: you ought now and again to
check that the nut on this clip bolt is firmly secured (torque 13NM).
Handlebar clip bolt:
Check that this is properly secured, torque 15NM. If it is loose, the handlebars may slip without
warning.

Brakes:
The brakes should be set so that the pads are as close to the rim as practical without actually
interfering with the free running of the wheel. When setting the rear brakes, the bicycle should be
in its un-parked position. Adjustment is carried out using the threaded cable stop on the brake
lever (or, on a C-type, at the caliper).
Dual-pivot calipers, centering. These are not self-balancing, and need to be trimmed so as
not to exert any side force on the rim. Apply the brake and watch for any trace of sideways motion
of the rim or tyre as the pads engage: adjust the M5 set-screw (visible on top of the caliper - use
a 2.5mm hex key) in order to get the caliper properly balanced. (If after doing this, the caliper
appears "lop-sided", with one arm lower relative the rim than the other, then the whole caliper
assembly needs to be re-positioned in the frame. Slacken off the main nut (10 AF) holding the
brake spindle, adjust the M5 set-screw to get rid of the uneven look of the brake, and do up the
main nut again while pulling on the brake lever. Finally, re-trim the caliper so as to centre the
pads using the M5 set-screw.)
Dual-pivot calipers, pad position. As these wear down, or after any adjustment as above, the
pads may no longer bear centrally against the braking surface on the rim: re-position as needed.

Cup and cone bearings:

If these are set over-tight, damage is likely, and in the case of a geared rear hub, the freewheel
will tighten up as well (in turn causing chain problems during folding). Always ensure that the
relevant locknut is secure after adjustment:
a) wheel hubs: set so that very slight play is just discernible at the wheel rim. On the rear geared
hub, do not use the RH cone for bearing adjustment. Instead use the two nuts (22AF) at the LH
end: the bearing cone here is unthreaded, and its position on the axle is set by the inner of these
two nuts, which is in turn locked in position with the outer.
b) steering head: set so that no play is discernible, and so that (after tightening the lock-nut) the
steering is still free, and without tight spots.
SECTION H: OTHER DESIGN POINTS TO DO WITH FOLDING
Hook:

Correct function of the hook is important for

satisfactory folding: it retains the front wheel in
place when the bike is folded. It is attached to
the front mudguard stay (or, if there are no
mudguards, to a special wire form, not
illustrated). If it is knocked out of position, the
design allows it tobe bent back. For the function
to be correct:-1. The chainwheel mustn't be too
far out. Part of the stay, B (fig HK1), acts as a
buffer against the chain wheel during folding,
and steadies the folded front

1. The chainwheel mustn't be too far out. Part of

the stay, B (fig HK1), acts as a buffer against the
chain wheel during folding, and steadies the
folded front wheel. If the chainwheel lies too far
out (the gap G (fig HK4) between inside of chain
and hinge plate RHPL when the bike is parked,
should be 0-3mm, not more), then the hook will
be a tight fit over the chainstay CHS, and may
stick when trying to unfold the front wheel.

2. The hook must not be bent wrong (fig HK3): if

it is bent up too far, then a) it may catch on the
rear spokes, and b) it may slide off the tube
CHS, causing the bike to unfold inadvertently. If
it is bent down too far, then the hook will contact
the tube CHS at C before the front wheel (and
the rest of the bike) has dropped to its fully
folded position. If it is bent fore/aft it may strike
the chainwheel or (if fitted) the derailleur fig. H3
changer, and if the stay is "crushed" in, the front
wheel spokes will clash with the chain tensioner
nut as the bike is folded.

If the hook is ineffective, and/or sticks during

unfolding, then, bearing the above in mind,
judicious bending of the wire stay (say by pulling
on the hook) should cure the problem.
Handlebar catch and nipple:
The "body" of the handlebar catch acts as a stop to align the front wheel correctly during folding.
The correct torque for the securing screw is 9NM.
Operation of catch and nipple: keep these correctly set, for, if wrong, the handlebar catch will
loose its spring effect, with the irritating result that the handlebars unlatch too easily from the
folded package.

Alignment of the catch, HBC: the catch itself

must be aligned so that the nipple enters centrally
(fig HB3 rather than HB4)

.Alignment of the nipple, HBNIP: this should be

in line with the catch HBC as it enters it during
folding (fig HB5 rather than HB6). Bear this in
mind if making adjustments as described
below.

Offset of the nipple, HBNIP: if the handlebar

itself, or the control levers/cables, are set too far
forward, they may, on folding, foul against the
front wheel and so prevent the nipple from fully
entering the catch (i.e. as per fig HB8). To
remedy, either reset the handlebar or levers
further back (i.e. further out when folded), or
unscrew the nipple so that it is further from the
support tube, HBS: the nipple must be able to
enter the catch HBC fully, as per fig HB7.

If the set up is correct and the catch remains

ineffective, either replace the h'bar catch, or you
may obtain a temporary cure by twisting the
nipple slightly (i.e. as not normally recommended,
fig HB6).
Lower stop disc:

When you pick up the folded bike, the rear

frame cannot unfold because the lower
stop disc, LSD, butts against the "folded"
seat pillar, SP. The LSD can be adjusted
to give the correct gap between itself and
the SP: if the gap is too small, then the SP
may foul, irritatingly, against the LSD
during folding. If the gap is too large, then
the rear wheel will drop away too far when
the bike is picked up, so that the hook
retaining the front wheel slips off the tube
CHS on the rear frame. The correct gap
is 1-2mm (fig LS1).

To set the lower stop correctly, you need a 15AF and a 19AF spanner. Do not over-tighten the
lock-nut, correct torque 8NM.
Cable routing, fig CR1:

The routing of the cables is carefully worked out,

and when replacing cables, correct routing is
vital if these are not to be damaged during
folding. Also the outers should be exactly the
same length (+/- 2mm) as the original cables,
and also have same ferrules (if fitted): always
use lined outers, and PTFE coated inner
cables.
All cables MUST pass in front of the handlebar,
to the left of the handlebar stem and to the right
of the main frame tube. The FRONT brake cable
must pass through the forward cable guide
CGF. The REAR cables must pass through the
cable gatherer CABGATH on the front brake
cable, the centre cable guide CGC and the rear
cable guide CGR as shown: they should also
pass inside the tube TT and the tube SS. The
gear cable GCAB should lie below the brake
cable BRCABR (if the bike has both derailleur
and hub gears, the derailleur cable should be
lowest).

Rear hinge screws:

These are factory set with a torque of 10NM, using thread-locking fluid, and (unless there is a
problem) should NEVER be checked or moved.
SECTION J: LUBRICATION.
When lubricating your Brompton, avoid getting oil or grease on the seat pillar or the wheel rims.
Grease is the right lubricant for all wearing parts (oil does not last as well), and where it is
practical to dismantle an assembly and apply grease, it's best to do so. However, this is often
inconvenient or impossible, and oil can be used instead, but note that applying oil to a greased
assembly can cause the remaining grease to be washed away fairly quickly, and frequent
re-lubrication is needed thereafter (unless you re-grease).
Choice of lubricant: any good quality general purpose grease is satisfactory, especially lithium
based. For the chain, proprietary chain lubricants with good penetrating properties give the best
results. As for oil, some spray-on products are convenient to use, otherwise employ an ordinary
light mineral oil. For the rear hub, Sram recommends:
a) for the bearings and gears, Sram grease "Fett type A": Brompton can advise where to
obtain this.
b) for the pawls, light mineral oil.
The chart on p.25 shows what to lubricate. For medium frequency items (marked "3"), a sensible
guide for the interval between lubrication is a year, or 5,000 miles.
Notes:
a) Chain: for smooth pedalling the chain HAS to be well lubricated: if the bike is used in the wet,
this should be done frequently. The easiest way to cover the whole chain is to turn the pedals
backwards while applying oil: make sure that the oil flows both onto the rollers and between the
side plates: turn the pedals a few more times to allow the oil to work in, and then wipe off excess
oil.
b) Hinge clamps: a thin smear of grease on the inside faces of the clamp plates ensure that
these release OK: the thread of the clamp bolt, and its washer, should also be greased.
c) Folding pedal: the pivot spindle on which it folds likes greasing from time to time. The main
bearing, which is grease packed, should not be oiled: however, if the bearing is not running freely,
some oil fed in past the seal will extend its useful life.
d) Rear hinge: this comprises a stainless steel shaft running in pre-greased bushes and these
will normally give a very long maintenance free life; however, after the first say 10,000 miles or 2
years, an occasional application of oil is recommended.
e) Hub gears: the gears and bearings are sealed; greasing need only be carried out during major
service.
SECTION K: ROUTINE REPLACEMENTS.
Planned replacement is advised to ensure both safety and good performance. The suggested
intervals between replacements are for bicycles subjected to normal use: the most appropriate
timing depends on the conditions of use and your riding style.
1. ALUMINIUM COMPONENTS: as on other lightweight machines, aluminium alloy is used in
the construction of the Brompton, and this material has a finite life before failure. In normal use,
the risk of aluminium fatigue failure is remote, even after many thousands of miles. However, the
risk of failure increases with use, especially with hard riding or other severe loading: as such a
failure could cause injury, the hinge clamp plates, handlebar and chainset should for safety be
replaced every 5,000 miles (more frequently on any machine subjected to hard use), and we
recommend that these items are anyway checked regularly. For the handlebar, an alternative is to
fit a cross bar (see Section M).
2. Transmission: if the chain is allowed to stretch unduly, through lack of lubrication or long term
wear, power transmission will be inefficient and rough and the sprockets will also wear quickly. A
new chain is not expensive: so replace every 2 - 3,000 miles (or sooner if it has lacked lubrication
or been used in harsh conditions). If you have allowed the chain you are replacing to stretch
unduly, you will almost certainly have damaged the rear sprocket(s), and possibly the chainwheel
too: these should be checked when fitting a new chain and if worn should be replaced at the
same time as fitting the new chain.
3. Brake cables: these do not have an indefinite life, and to reduce the risk of brake cable failure,
replace the inner cables at intervals of 4,000 miles or less. If there is any doubt about the free
running of the cables, the outer cables should also be replaced. New outers should be exactly the
same length as the original cables, with the correct terminating ferrules.
4. Gear cables: though less safety critical than brake cables, the hub-gear inner control cables
should be replaced at the same interval as brake cables.
5. Tyres: the risk of punctures increases with the mileage covered, as the tyre accumulates small
sharp particles in its tread. You should reckon on replacing the rear tyre every 3 - 4,000 miles and
the front tyre every 6,000 miles.
6. Lighting on the T-type: a) repeated flexing of the wires around the rear hinge when folding
eventually causes failure - replace the wiring loom connecting the dynamo to the front light at
intervals of 7,500 miles: b) front bulb and dynamo: these can have a very long life between failure,
but performance deteriorates - replace after 250 hours.
8. Suspension bush (flanged bush under the suspension block): 10-15,000 miles.
SECTION L: SPECIFICATION OF SPARES.
Chain: this must have the correct number of links for a given sprocket combination, as noted
below. Also traditional joining links are usually unsuitable because the pin is too long: so instead
the joint should be made by pressing in the rivet pin. We recommend Sram PC1 (1/8") and PC10
(3/32") chain.
• for non-derailleur, size ½" x 1/8": max. pin length 8.7mm: number of links 50T/13T/98L,
44T/13T/96L, and 44T/14T/96L
• for derailleur, size ½" x 3/32": max. pin length length 7.4mm: number of links 54T/16T/104L,
50T/15T/100L, and 44T/15T/98L (the rear sprocket size given is that of the larger, inner
sprocket).
Rear sprockets for geared hub (to ISO 10230): non-derailleur, ½" x 13T x 3mm thick (but for
lower gearing, use a 14T or 15T sprocket): derailleur, special Brompton sprockets, 13T and 15T
only.
Chainset. Best to use the Stronglight set specified for the Brompton. If you use an alternative,
make sure that it suits the BB axle (ISO 6695), that it gives the correct chainline (fig HK4), and
that the end of the crank does not clash with any part of the rear frame when the bicycle is parked.
BB cartridge. ISO 6695. For C-type, Ritmo S x 127mm. For other models, FAG 119mm.
Chain tensioner idler sprockets: non-derailleur, 10 tooth x 3/32" wide at the teeth, x 1/2" wide at
the centre, mounting hole to receive M5 bolt: derailleur, special flanged Brompton idlers.
Brake pads: Alhonga HJ 454-11.
Tyres: size 16" x 1.3/8", ETRTO 37-349. Inner tube with Schrader valve. Best to use the
special high-pressure Brompton tyres (see Section M). But if you cannot obtain these, choose
another reputable make: take care, as some tyres lose shape on inflating, and/or offer a lot of
rolling resistance, and some tubes lose pressure fast.
Control cables: The cable routing and terminations are critical. For outer cables the length, and
ferrule diameter should be identical to that of the cable originally fitted: for the front brake cable,
the outer must be in two parts of the correct length, so that the cable gathering ring occupies the
right position in the cable system. You are best advised to use cables supplied by BROMPTON. If
you have to use cables from another source, specify low friction cables (PTFE coated inner
cable, lined outer cable).
Dynamo: AXA IQ right hand fitting. Other 6v dynamos are also suitable, but you may need to fit a
special slotted stay (available from Brompton).
Front lamp bulb: 6 volt x 2.4 watt halogen. Do not touch the glass when fitting.
SECTION M: OPTIONS AND ACCESSORIES.
LUGGAGE, the front carrier system.
The Brompton system provides a highly convenient method for taking luggage on the bike as it
only takes a moment to attach or release it. As the load is effectively attached rigidly to the main
bike frame, it has little effect on steering. The system is a delight to use, especially if you
regularly need to take luggage or shopping with you.
At the heart of the system are a tapered block and a special frame which latches onto it. Then is
then a choice of 3 soft-luggage options that fit over this frame: all are badged for safety with a
reflective mark. A shoulder strap (not shown) is available for the panniers

Front carrier block and clip (100 gms). A mounting kit is

provided, and with this the block is made fast to the bicycle.
The block has a sprung clip to ensure that luggage remains in
place when riding. The block does not project from the folded
package.

Cloth pannier (1380 gms), a handy and

practical holdall made from tough waterproof
polyester fabric. The main compartment has a
divider for keeping papers separated from other
articles. At the back, there are two pockets for
items such as tools, maps etc. Total capacity is
22 litres. All the compartments have zip
fasteners.

Touring pannier (1670 gms). With considerably

more capacity than the cloth pannier, this has,
instead of zips, a roll-top system, with nylon clips, for
closing. Like the cloth pannier, there are two
pockets at the back, and a divider inside: in addition
there are three elasticated net pockets around the
outside, where you can stuff things which you may
want during your ride. Total internal capacity approx
28 litres.
Folding basket (1340 gms). Using the same material as the panniers, this
provides a large, open-top
container, ideal for shopping.
Mounted on the bike, the shape
is maintained by virtue of a
simple bracing frame, which
folds flat for storage. Drainage
holes are provided in case of
rain. When used as a basket
off the bike, it has the character
part bag/part basket, and you
have to take a little care when
stowing goods if you want it to
stand up properly. Capacity is
24 litres

Rainproof cover (55 gms, not shown). Though the material on the Brompton luggage items is
PVC coated, leakage is possible during prolonged rain through zips or seams. The Brompton
rainproof cover gives complete protection against rain, with an elasticated hem to keep it in
place. It's colour is a highly visible, bright yellow: when not in use, it takes up next to no space.

Front carrier frame (690 gms), a brazed, tubular steel

frame, with a plated finish. The top member provides a
carrying handle and the base gives support for the load.
Its principal use is as backbone for the cloth items, but it
may also be used on its own to carry other luggage tied
to it.

COVER & SADDLE BAG (240 gms). In many

situations, say on trains, or when the bike is dirty,
a cover is useful. The Brompton cover is quick to
fit or remove, and it can be drawn tight around the
base of the bike by using its draw-cord. The
saddle bag is a home for the cover when it's not in
use.
 BROOKS LEATHER SADDLE for the
Brompton: If you are thinking of a change of
saddle, you should consider the special Brooks
leather saddle made for Brompton (extra 420
gms). This beautifully made traditional saddle
will give years of comfortable riding. For real
refinement, you can specify a titanium frame,
obviously light (extra weight only 185 gms), but
also with more spring.

LIGHTING
L-type battery lighting system. The relatively lightweight
rear lamp stays permanently on the rear frame, out of harm's
way, while the heavier front lamp is removed for folding.
Rear lamp: Basta extra bright 6LED type, with integral
reflector: 2 or 4 AA batteries give approx. 20 or 40 hours'
use. Front lamp: Cat Eye lamp with very easy quick
release system: 2 size C batteries give up to 17 hours' use.
The set includes batteries and the special mounting
brackets needed front and rear for attaching the lamps.
Weight with front lamp removed 140 gms (complete 350
gms).

T-type dynamo: "standlights". A rear light which stays on when you're

stationary is a great safety feature: the Basta 6LED rear standlight
stays lit for 4 full minutes after you have stopped (with a button for
turning it off sooner if you want, say at the end of a ride). For the front,
the Cat Eye lamp (as above) can be used: its large switch is very handy
for frequent operation.

T-type: special dynamo stay. If you wish to use a dynamo different

from the normal Brompton dynamo, it may, with luck, fit directly onto the
standard stay. However, if not, we offer a stay where the bracket is
SLOTTED, which allows nearly any type of bottle-dynamo to be fitted.
HANDLEBAR CROSSBAR.

If you ride hard or regularly (and particularly if you

jump over kerbs), your handlebar may not last for
ever: as failure can cause injury, we recommend
that handlebars are replaced at regular intervals.
But for greatest safety, you can fit the crossbar
(suitable for normal Brompton bars).

REPLACEMENT TYRES.
Our high performance tyres, compared to ordinary road tyres, make a really noticeable difference
to the performance of the bike: more expensive, but well worth it. Whatever happens, avoid using
any old tyre: on a small-wheeled bike, a good tyre is essential, and certain cheap makes can
completely spoil the fun by making pedalling far more effort.

Brompton standard tyres, 42FL, "yellow".

Standard on L-types and T-types, these are
exceptionally free-running, durable and
lightweight.

Brompton Kevlar tyres, 42FT, "green", with

the same skin-wall build as the 42FL, except for
the inclusion, under the tread, of a Kevlar belt.
This much reduces the risk of punctures, and it
barely has any effect on the attractive
free-running qualities of the 42FL.

Schwalbe Marathon. Though heavier (110

gms per pair) than the 42FL, and not as free
running, its advantage is its robust construction.
Like the 42FT it has a Kevlar belt included, but it
differs in having a) a deeper unidirectional tread
(with improved grip off tarmac) and b) a heavier
side-wall to reduce the risk of "pinch-punctures".

Raleigh Record: an inexpensive, hard wearing, good quality, conventional road tyre, fitted as
standard on the C-type.
SADDLE POSITION. If you need a higher saddle and
you can live with its projecting slightly from the folded
package, fit a longer seat pillar and/or a saddle adaptor
pin (pointing up). Note: additional height is also
possible by fitting other types of saddle.

1. Longer seat pillars:

EXTENDED SEAT PILLAR (extra 150 gms), 60mm

longer than the standard seat pillar.
TELESCOPIC SEAT PILLAR: permits a saddle height
up to 175mm higher than normal, yet when lowered, the
saddle projects only 30mm from the folded package
(extra 295 gms).

2. Saddle adaptor pin (125 gms)

a) mounted "pointing down", it allows the saddle to be moved up

to 40mm forward (which also makes the folded package the
most compact)
b) mounted "pointing up", it allows the saddle to be moved up to
30mm higher, albeit slightly further forward.

GEARING.
Suitable rear sprockets and Stronglight/Brompton chainwheels are available to give gearing 12%
lower or 18% lower. If you want to use our chainwheels to change the gearing on a C-type, then
the FAG 119mm bottom bracket cartridge must be fitted instead of the Ritmo 127mm cartridge.
OPTIONS FOR THE C-TYPE ONLY:
FOLDING LEFT HAND PEDAL: The Brompton folding pedal has an ingenious design, using a
precision industrial bearing. It allows you safely to use both sides of the pedal in the normal way,
and yet to fold it at a touch, leaving a projection of only 20mm.
MUDGUARDS: Complete set with all stays, mud-flaps and fastenings, for retrofitting to the
C-type (365 gms).
PUMP: high pressure pump with thumb-lock connection, made specially for Brompton by Zefal. If
required this can be kept permanently to hand, on the rear frame.

BROMPTON BICYCLE LTD

Kew Bridge Distribution Centre, Lionel Road, Brentford, Middlesex TW8 9QR.
(and at www.bromptonbicycle.co.uk) April 2002
Dec-09 cta ds

subtext ctarem
Removing the chain tensioner:
Park the bike, with the gear trigger(s) in top gear and high gear(s) engaged (back pedal and forward pedal
to engage).

Hub-gear control: on a bike with a Sram 3-spd, press the spring clip CTIDL
C on the adjustor A to disconnect the adjustor from the gear chain:
on a bike with a Sturmey hub, slacken off the knurled locknut N and CTARM
unscrew the barrel B. A CTN
The gear (indicator) chain GICH will GICH
CPULA be left hanging loose from the end of B
the axle and should be unscrewed
B from the hub and withdrawn. On a 5- C
CPULA
speed, the guide roller assembly GRA
must also be withdrawn from the end fig AR3
N
of the axle.

Move the sprung arm, CTARM, anti clockwise and lift the chain off; allow the
CTARM to move back clockwise until it comes to a stop; undo the securing
GRA nut CTN (on a 3/6-speed this is a special nut, and on a 1/2/5-speed it is a
standard wheel nut) and remove it together with its washer(s); the chain
tensioner assembly may now be removed by drawing it sideways off the end
of the axle.
fig AR12

subtext ctafit CTIDL fig DR14

Fitting the chain tensioner: B
First arrange the chain so that it is running true over both
chainwheel and rear sprocket (on a derailleur, providing high gear
is selected, this should be the outer sprocket); next, the chain
tensioner body has two flanges on its inner face - these pass
either side of the axle plate when fitting the chain tensioner;
address the chain tensioner to the axle plate and press home,
making sure that the fixed idler sprocket CTIDL lies above (with
the rear frame inverted) the chain as per fig AR3. For a derailleur bike, the chain and the fixed idler on the
chain-tensioner-base, CTIDLB, have to lie between the "uprights" of the chain-pusher-plate: so, with the
LH trigger up and the chain-tensioner inclined slightly outwards as in fig DR14 (chain not shown in this
figure), feed the idler CTIDLB between these uprights, and then feed the chain-tensioner base onto the
rear axle plate till it abuts squarely.
Next secure the chain tensioner:
on a 3-speed, use the chain tensioner nut CTN and its washer. Though similar, the nut and washer
needed on a Sturmey hub are different from those for Sram: the Sturmey nut should NOT be done up
too tight, a little firmer than hand tight suffices (max torque 5NM). For a Sram hub, up to 8NM.
on a 5-speed, use a standard wheel nut, with the anti-rotation washer under this nut, and with the tab
washer (TBW) abutting the chain tensioner. It is essential that the TBW, which provides location for the
guide roller assy (GRA) is at the correct angle, such that the GRA aligns with the indicator chain when
that is connected to the control cable. To obtain the correct position, screw on the nut, just tight
enough to prevent the tab washer from moving: fit the GRA over the TBW, and turn it (and the TBW)
clockwise until it points accurately towards the cable pulley assy. (CPULA). Remove the GRA, and do up
the nut firmly, but not too tight (torque approx. 10NM): take care not to knock the TBW whilst doing
this. Misalignment can cause poor gear selection and damage to the hub.
If fitting a new chain tensioner to a non-derailleur bike, check at this stage
whether the idler wheels, CTIDL, are in line with the rear sprocket (fig CT3). If
not, then check that the rear sprocket has the correct spacers: if these are OK,
then add or remove washers W under the idler wheels.
Now draw up the slack in the chain and feed it over the idler wheel on the
sprung arm CTARM (you have to part-fold the rear frame to do this) - check
that the chain is flowing correctly when turning the cranks.
Next, for a bike with hub-gears, screw the indicator chain GICH into the hub,
and make sure it is fully screwed home. On a 5-speed, fit the GRA and push it
home firmly.
fig CT3
STRIPPING DOWN THE CHAIN TENSIONER ASSEMBLY ITSELF.
When the assembled CTA is off the bike, the swinging arm, CTARM, is being urged by the spring to bear
against boss B: before taking it completely apart you have to lift the CTARM away from the base, CTB, and
allow it to move clockwise over boss B to the position shown
dotted (where the spring is relaxed). The correct procedure is:

undo the centre screw, S, by 3 turns,

lift the CTARM and allow the spring to move it round till
the spring is relaxed,
undo screw S completely: be careful not to lose the inner
washer W2

Re-assembly:
Lightly grease the outside of the spacer, CTSP (fig T4), feed the screw S through the washer W1 and the
CTSP, and press these through the bore of the CTARM. Hold the
CTARM with the inner side upwards (with a finger on the screw S to
stop it falling out) and fit the spring into it so that the tongue T1 enters
the groove G. Fit the washer W2 over the projecting end of the screw S.
It is vital not to omit this washer and to make sure that it does not fall off
during assembly.
Address the CTB to the spring (oriented roughly as in fig T4), so that the
tongue T2 enters its groove and push it down against the end of the
screw S (avoid pushing out the pressed-in nut in the CTB). Do up the
screw S by 2 1/2 turns. Now move the CTARM anti-clockwise (as viewed
in Fig T3) past boss B, and push it down against the CTB. Finish doing up
the screw S, and secure firmly. The two parts of the chain tensioner
should now move freely: if they don't, the washer W2 has almost
certainly fallen from its place, or else one of the tongues of the spring is
not seated correctly.

Derailleur chain tensioner idlers etc.

Prise off the cap on the side of the idler wheel with a small screw-driver. Undo the M4 screw (2.5mm hex
key), and remove this screw, with the spindle, idler-wheel and washer.
If changing the nut pressed into the moulding, tap it out with a M4W
suitable drift, and fit the new one.
On reassembly, smear a little grease on the spindle. Also, do not fig
forget to fit the large M4 washer under the spindle. CT4
Check that the idler is spinning freely (and moving in/out OK: there should be 7mm of travel).
subtext gadj hub
HUB-GEAR ADJUSTMENT.
Adjustment of the gear control must be carried out with the bike fully unfolded (i.e NOT parked),
and with the indicator rod screwed fully home into the hub (and backed off not more than half a
turn to align with the cable). The aim is to make sure that the indicator rod & chain down at the the
rear axle moves to the correct position in response to moving the trigger. For this the cable has to
be running well: it must be free of kinks or sharp radii, with the cable pulley rolling freely.
While setting gears, you should ensure that the gear you select by moving the control trigger has
indeed engaged in the hub, and to this end, each time you are moving the trigger, keep the wheel
spinning forwards, and pedal back and forwards, to ensure the gear engages. It's easiest, when
actually altering the setting, to have the cable slack: so select top gear and back and forward
pedal a bit first.
If you cannot obtain a satisfactory setting, then the most likely cause is either the cable not
running freely, or damage to the indicator chain itself, where it runs into the axle end. Otherwise,
the fault may be with the hub internals. C
SRAM 3-spd gear adjustment:. D
The cable is made tighter by pushing the adjustor A further onto
CPULA
the grooved end B of the indicator chain GICH: to obtain a looser B D
setting, the spring clip C has to be depressed.
A
You can usually get things right first time by moving the trigger into
top gear, pulling on the adjustor (away from the pulley housing fig AR5
CPULA), and then feeding the grooved end B of the indicator bike unfolded
chain into the adjustor until it is just not loose, i.e. WITHOUT
pulling the indicator chain out of the axle at all. The setting is GICH
correct when:-
with the trigger in top, the cable is just slack (with a Brompton Y-trigger fitted, there should
be up to 5mm side-to-side movement at D-D, and with a Sram Torpedo trigger, rather less),
in other words neither flopping around too much, nor taut. If, when you try pulling the adjustor
A away from the CPULA, you can see any movement of the indicator chain back into the axle
where it enters it, then the setting is too tight, and
with the trigger in low, the indicator chain (where it enters the end of the axle) should either
move not at all, or perhaps up to 1mm, when you pull the adjustor towards the CPULA (if it
moves more than this, then the setting is probably too loose: on the other hand, if, while
back-pedalling and moving the trigger slowly from mid- to low-position, you see that the
indicator chain stops moving out of the end of the axle before the trigger has clicked into low-
position, then the setting is probably too tight), and
when pedalling forwards (under no load) and changing through the 3 gears, both up and
down, all three gears are positively selected.
STURMEY ARCHER 3-spd & 5-spd adjustment:
B
Adjustment is carried out by
slackening the lock nut N, turning the
N
barrel B to obtain correct setting, and CPULA
relocking the nut N. Ensure the
indicator rod is the correct length for
the hub-type.
3-speed. Engage top gear, then fig AR6
move the control trigger to the middle
position: the step, S, towards the end
of the indicator rod, IR, should be
level with the end of the axle, visible

fig AR13
through the hole in the CTN. Next, select bottom gear, then middle, then top, and check that all
three are engaging correctly.
SR
5-speed, fig AR15 (Note: the GRA must be aligned with the
cable/indicator-chain, fig AR12). Engage top gear, then move the IR
control trigger to position 2 (2nd bottom gear): the annular
groove, SR, coloured red or blue, towards the end of the indicator
rod, should lie level with the end of the axle. Next change down
and then up through all the gears, and check that all gears
engage cleanly, fine tuning the setting if needed. In practice, you
may find that, with the gears functioning correctly, the groove SR
lies (when in 2nd gear) somewhere between the end of the axle
and 1.5mm out from the end of the axle (i.e. a slightly tighter
setting): but bear in mind that, when in top, the indicator chain,
GICH, should be just slack. Next, test the gear selection under fig AR15
load by riding the bike, again changing down and up through all
the gears.

subtext gadj dr modified

DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT.
After any changes or maintenance on the rear
frame fittings or wheel, the settings should be DL
checked, using the derailleur stop screws for
adjustment.
You should also be aware that, for satisfactory
gear changes and smooth running, apart from
these stop screws, two key elements of the
system have to move freely: the actuator (or H
"chain-pusher"), and both idlers on the chain fig DR9
L M3
tensioner.

Chain pusher adjustment.

Use the stop screws, fig DR9, on the chain pusher. The
idea is that, in high gear, the inner face of the inner
upright IU, fig DR16, shall be as close as possible to the
idler wheel, without any rubbing pressure while the idler
rotates (to give the slickest change with minimum wear):
IU fig DR16 when the setting is right, you should just be able to see
daylight between the two while turning the cranks
forwards, perhaps with occasional contact. Use a
2mm hex key in the forward stop screw H for
adjustment.
The same principle applies for the lower gear setting,
only this time, fig DR17, the inner face of the outer
upright OU has to just not rub on the idler, and the
rear stop screw L is used for adjustment.
OU fig DR17
Cable adjustment should seldom be necessary, as
the trigger moves the cable twice as far as the
movement of the chain-pusher (an over-ride spring inside the dogleg DL absorbs this movement).

If you have problems obtaining slick derailleur gear changes, refer to the Dealer or Owner Manual
for some tips.
 DATA SHEET: ds-brleval ISSUE S1003

Brake lever setup

Important information Setup procedure

ƒ If you are unsure of the correct fitting process please consult your 1. Lever angle
Brompton dealer. Brompton cannot accept responsibility for any 2. Lever position
failures due to incorrect fitting or maintenance. 3. Reach adjustment
4. Bite-point adjustment
Should you require more information, please see www.brompton.co.uk
5. Securing the lever
6. Cable routing

Installing the lever

In order to achieve a comfortable and safe brake lever position, it is important to spend some time ensuring the lever is
correctly installed and adjusted. Depending on your hand size, you can adjust the distance of the lever from the bar; the
lever can be set to be operated by one, two or three fingers.

The left and right hand levers are specifically designed for their respective positions; the lever should be fitted with the
clamp bolt facing upwards.

Fig. 1

Bar movement

Handlebar clamp bolt 2Nm

Reach
adjuster
Lever body

Lever blade Barrel adjuster

Reach adjustment range
1. Lever angle
The range of lever angle adjustment is restricted by the cable exit path, if the lever is angled too high it will cause prob-
lems for the operation of the brakes and in folding the bike.

When the bike is folded, the right hand brake cable housing will contact the fork leg. The lever angle should be set so
that the cable housing lightly contacts the fork leg; too much contact will bend and damage the housing. For this reason,
the lever blade features a kink allowing the lever blade to sit higher than the lever body this offers a more comfortable
position without affecting the cable housing path.

2. Lever position
The position of the lever on the bar can be adjusted to move the lever closer or further from the end of the handlebar
grip. This adjustment will allow the lever to be positioned for one, two or three finger braking.

Positioning the lever for one finger braking will give a more secure grip on the bar but allow you to apply less braking
force. Three finger braking will allow you to apply maximum braking force but reduce bar grip.

3. Reach adjuster
Lever reach adjustment is controlled by the grub screw on the side of the lever body.

Screwing the reach adjuster into the lever body (using a 2.5mm hex key) will bring the lever closer to the handlebar.

When the lever reach is adjusted closer to the handlebar it will cause the brake pads to move closer to the wheel rim. It
may be neccesary to adjust the lever bite point (engagement position) in order to give sufficient pad clearance; this can
be acheived by screwing the barrel adjuster into the lever body.

If there is not enough adjustment at the barrel adjuster to give sufficient pad clearance and a satisfactory lever bite point,
you may need to loosen the cable clamp bolt (10mm spanner) at the brake caliper to allow some cable to be pulled
through. Be sure to re tighten this bolt to 8Nm and ensure the cable is properly secured before using the bike.

4. Bite-point adjustment
Lever bite-point (engagement position) adjustment is controlled by the barrel adjuster. Screwing the barrel adjuster into
the lever body will bring the lever bite-point closer to the handlebar. Screwing the barrel adjuster outward from the
lever body will move the bite point further from the handlebar.

The barrel adjuster uses a lock ring to secure it in position; this should be loosened before adjustment and tightened
once the barrel adjuster is correctly positioned.

5. Securing the lever

Once the lever has been correctly positioned on the bar, the clamp bolt should be tightened to a torque of 2Nm using a
suitable torque wrench and 3mm hex key fitting.

6. Cable routing
Correct cable routing and cable housing length is essential; cables must pass in front of the handlebar, to the left of the
handlebar support and to the right of the main frame tube.
Jan-12 cab br ds

REPLACING BROMPTON BRAKE CABLES.

As a result of changes to the Brompton, different cables are required for different models:
a long-wheel-base bike (one shipped after January 2004, and with a main-frame hinge which is
cast) requires longer rear cables than a short-wheel-base bike (where the hinge is forged, with
a hand-brazed joint):
M-type and P-type use the same brake cables. S-type (straight h’bar) has its own cables as does
the H-type (higher h’bar):
different cables are needed for earlier bikes fitted with Saccon levers, and
the cable length depends on which lever (left or right) operates which brake, front or rear.
Make sure that you have the right length cable for the bike in question. The application sheet
shows for which model this cable is suited.
As a general rule when replacing cables, correct cable routing is vital, with the outers being exactly
the same length (+/- 2mm) as the original cables, and also having the same ferrules fitted. If a cable
outer is too short, the cable will be damaged through stretching during folding, and if too long, will
hook up on other parts. It may be necessary to trim to length inner cable supplied after assembly.
Your kit may include cable ties: you will only need these if the original cable you are replacing has a
dynamo wiring loom attached to it. Fit the new ties at the same position as those you replace.
subtext cable routing
Correct routing of the control cables is essential if these are not to be damaged during folding. All
cables MUST pass in front of the handlebar, to the left of the handlebar stem and to the right of the
main frame tube.
When replacing the front brake cable outers, leave the CABGATH on the rear cable(s), and then
feed the new outers (shorter part on top) onto the CABGATH.
The ferrules on the 2-part front brake-outer to lie at outer ends. The front cable must pass:
a) through the body of the cable gatherer, CABGATH
b) through the forward cable guide, CGF, and
c) to the left of the front mudguard (for an E-version or C-type, see note below).
The rear cable(s) must pass:
a) through the ring on the cable gatherer, CABGATH, fig
b) through the centre cable guide, CGC, CR1
c) inside the tube TT,
d) through the rear cable guide, CGR, as shown, and
e) for the brake cable, BRCABR, inside the tube SS CABGATH

The gear cable(s) GCAB should lie below the brake cable, CGF
BRCABR. If there are two gear cables, then the derailleur cable
should lie below the hub-gear cable. BRCABR
When replacing a cable to which a dynamo wiring loom is
attached, cut the tie wraps holding the loom to the old cable, and SS
re-tie the loom (at the same spots as before) to the new cable: on
a rear cable the rearmost tie must lie just aft of the CGC, not in
front of it. (If the loom is a Mk 2 type, which reverses inside a
rubber sleeve just under the CABGATH, use two tiewraps here,
and pull them extra tight to prevent slipping.) GCAB
Note 1. On a bike without mudguards, the LH front fork will either have CGC
TT
a fender disc or a brazed-on wire loop: the brake cable must pass
outside these (and not through the loop). CGR
Note 2. If the CABGATH on an S-type is grey (not black), any new front
cable outer will be a loose fit: the fit is better with a black one, but as the change involves considerable work,
the use of a 6mm ferrule is an alternative.
Dec-11

FITTING REPLACEMENT DERAILLEUR CABLE PARTS

Remove the rear wheel: you may find that the summary instructions on the final page are a useful
guide (full details in the Owner Manual).

subtext dr cab trig rem

Disconnecting cable at trigger. Move the derailleur lever up. Unscrew the screw holding the
trigger cap, and remove the cap. Lift the lever, with the cable still attached, away from the trigger
housing. Slacken the small grub screw in the threaded nipple TN where the cable is anchored (1.5mm
hex key needed), and withdraw the cable: take care not to lose the threaded nipple, which can drop out
the moment the cable is withdrawn.

subtext dr cab rem

Disconnecting the derailleur cable lower end.

Down on the rear frame, fig DR25, the "dog-leg" DL should be left connected to the actuator
(CHPUA, not shown in this view). If the the dynamo wiring loom is attached to the derailleur cable,
then it needs to be disconnected by cutting the tiewraps (spares are supplied for reconnection later).
You are strongly advised to clean up the area where the derailleur cable ends, particularly the right
hand chainstay tube, and cable guide: this is partly to make the work pleasanter, but more important
to avoid getting dirt into the cable on reassembly.

With the cable disconnected from the lever, the next step is disconnection from the DL. The screw
M6SS in the back of the DL has to be undone (4mm hex key), but before doing so, the pressure
exerted on it by the inner spring, INS, acting through the cable nipple, CN, must be removed
(otherwise the thread cut in the back of the DL may be damaged). To relieve this pressure, you have
to pull forwards on the inner cable, which compresses the spring. So, leaving the forward cable stop,
CSTF, in place, move the outer cable forwards about 50mm, which exposes the inner cable: grip the
inner cable with pliers at a position approx. midway along the cable guide CGR, and pull forwards a

fig DR25 CGR

OS

M6SS
INS

CN
CSTF
CSTRA

DL

bit to compress the INS. Undo and remove the screw M6SS, and then allow the pliers and cable to
move rearwards till the spring is relaxed (note: if you intend retaining the inner cable, take care not
to kink it with the pliers).

Remove the inner cable.

To fit new cable stops, pull back on the CSTRA (compressing the spring OS) till it no longer
passes through the wire loop in the CGR. Grip the spring OS so that it doesn't extend, and fit the
new cable stops (chamfered ends pointing towards each other, these to engage against the wire
loop).
To fit a new spring OS, use the same method for dismantling, and for reassembly, feed the spring
bit by bit over the tube on the dogleg, gripping it each time till it can be repositioned with the
CSTRA in place through the wire loop in CGR.
To fit a new dog-leg (with spring tube), the M3 screw (fig DR9, elsewhere in these notes) has
to be undone. When screwing this screw back into the new dogleg, it is a little stiff as it is cutting its
own thread. Do it up till it becomes tight (do not over-force the screw), and then back it off one
turn (the dog leg must be able to move freely relative to the actuator to which it's attached).

subtext dr cab fit

Connecting the derailleur cable lower end.
With the inner spring INS in place on the cable inner, feed the cable inner through the back of the
dog-leg DL, through the cable stops CSTRA and CSTF and up through the cable outer, until most of
the spring has passed into the dogleg and come to a stop. Move the outer cable forward so that its
rear end lies about 50mm in front of the forward cable stop CSTF (this last still in place in the loop
on the rear cable guide CGR).
The next step is to fit the screw M6SS to the back of the dogleg, but first the inner spring INS has to
be compressed. Carefully grip the exposed part of the inner cable with pliers, just in front of the
CSTF, and pull forwards until the spring is compressed (with the cable nipple well inside the dogleg
DL): feed the screw in and do it up. Do not overtighten this screw but make sure that the underside
of the crew head touches the plastic dogleg DL.
Slide the outer cable back till it engages inside the CSTF, right in till it comes to a stop.

subtext dr cab trig fit

Connecting the cable to the trigger.
Note about overide spring. By design, the trigger moves the cable almost twice as far as is needed to effect
the gear change: so, while the trigger is being pulled down, the actuator on the rear-frame will reach the low-
gear position before the trigger is fully down, the excess cable movement being absorbed by the overide spring
at the bottom end of the cable. This means a) that, with the trigger up (high gear), it is OK
to have a little slack (up to about 3mm) in the cable, and b) that, as the cable stretches
over time, no cable-adjustment is needed. The procedure outlined below for connecting the fig
DR22
cable will keep the initial slack to a minimum, so that as much as possible of the trigger
motion is reserved to cope with future cable stretch.

Down on the rear-frame, check that the two cable stops are pressed against the loop
on the cable guide CGR, and that the cable outer is seating properly in its cable-stop. GTF
(If you have made any changes to the actuator (CHPUA), the high-gear stop screw
should have been set.)
Don't forget to fit the ferrule GTF over the loose end
of the cable first, fig DR22. Also (if necessary) slacken fig DR23
off the grub screw in the threaded nipple TN far enough
for the inner cable to pass through. GTF

Next, fig DR23, with the TN in place through the hole

in the lever (and the lever still out of the trigger K
TN
housing) feed the inner cable through the nipple TN at F
the angle shown till the cable abuts the surface K on the
lever. Do up the screw in the nipple to secure the cable. [Note: if you allow more cable to extend
past the nipple than is allowed by surface K, this loose end will interfere with the free movement of
the lever, and cause poor gear-changing.]
Now, holding the ferrule GTF in one hand and the lever in your other hand, pull the inner cable out
a couple of times (taking care not to kink the cable). You will feel the resistance of the springs: this
action should make sure that the cable ends and stops are all settled correctly in place.
When assembling the lever into the trigger housing, the bike should be fully unfolded in order to
set the cable correctly. This correct setting is obtained by fitting the ferrule GTF so that its flange F
engages one particular preferred slot of the four slots S, fig DR24, in the housing. To do this, fit the
lever part-way onto its pivot (the raised boss), and then pull "gently" down (see note below) on the
ferrule, away from the lever: allow the lever to rotate anti-
clockwise till it turns no further. At this stage decide which fig
slot to fit the ferrule into: the correct slot is the one in line DR24
with the flange F, or else the next available slot nearer to
the trigger-lever (i.e. such that the cable-inner becomes
slightly slacker). Feed the lever fully into position on its pivot
in the housing, and let the cable ferrule drop squarely into
the selected slot. Secure the trigger cap back into place,
squeezing it together towards the housing where the cable
enters.
Note: when putting a pre-load onto the cable, this must be a
gentle pre-load only, to take up the slack without moving
the inner relative to the outer, i.e. a load just sufficient to
S
make sure that the cable outer abuts properly against its
stops.
If an appropriate slot for the GTF cannot be found, the
cause may be a) that the cable outer is not seating correctly in the CSTF or in the GTF, b) that the
CSTF is not bearing against the loop in the CGR, or else c) that the cable supplied is the wrong
length (the outer should be 1173mm and the inner (excluding the nipple) 1297mm).
Checking that the cable is set OK in the trigger.
Operate the trigger a few times, and move it back to the fig DR2
UP position. The actuator CHPUA should be fully "out",
with the stop-screw H contacting the surface SH of the
"wing plate": if it isn't in contact, then the cable is too SH
tight, and the ferrule GTF needs to be moved up a slot SL
in the trigger. Also check for play in the cable: grasp the
cable outer just where it comes out of the trigger and pull it up and down, but not hard enough to
move the CHPUA: if there is more than 3mm of slack, then the ferrule GTF needs to be moved
down a slot. A further check is to move the trigger slowly down from the up position: the CHPUA
should complete its movement to the inner, low-gear position well before the trigger has latched
down.
If the bike has a wiring loom which has been detached from the derailleur cable, use the tiewraps
supplied to re-attach it. The rearmost tiewrap must be aft of the CGC, not in front of it.

Fit the rear wheel and chain tensioner. For bikes with hub gears, reconnect the hub-gear control.
Check the derailleur adjustment. Details elsewhere in these notes.
subtext gadj dr
DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT.
After any changes or maintenance on the rear frame fittings or wheel, the settings should be
checked. With a new chain pusher, the
derailleur stop screws must be adjusted. DL
You should also be aware that, for
satisfactory gear changes and smooth
running, apart from these stop screws,
two key elements of the system have to
move freely: the actuator (or "chain-
pusher"), and both idlers on the chain H
fig DR9
tensioner. L M3

Chain pusher adjustment.

Use the stop screws, fig DR9, on the chain
pusher. The idea is that, in high gear, the inner
face of the inner upright IU, fig DR16, shall be as
close as possible to the idler wheel, without any
rubbing pressure while the idler rotates (to give fig DR16
IU
the slickest change with minimum wear): when
the setting is right, you should just be able to see daylight between the two while turning the cranks
forwards, perhaps with occasional contact. Use a
2mm hex key in the forward stop screw H for
adjustment.
The same principle applies for the lower gear
setting, only this time, fig DR17, the inner face
of the outer upright OU has to just not rub on
the idler, and the rear stop screw L is used for
adjustment. OU fig DR17

Cable adjustment should seldom be

necessary, as the trigger moves the cable twice as far as the movement of the chain-pusher (an over-
ride spring inside the dogleg DL absorbs this movement).

Derailleur trouble shooting.

If the derailleur still malfunctions after adjustment, or if turning the adjustor screws has no useful
effect, and there is no obvious sign of dirt obstructing free movement, then the procedure for
diagnosis is as follows. Step 1, remove the chain tensioner: this allows you to identify whether the
problem lies with the idlers on the chain tensioner (they should be free to move in and out 7mm) or
with the chain-pusher. If the chain-pusher does not move freely, and the cause is not obvious, try
slackening the M3 screw slightly (there is supposed to be clearance). Step 2, remove this M3 screw
completely: this allows you to identify whether there is a problem with the cable and the dogleg link
DL (e.g. dirt on the spring, misalignment of cable and cable stops, etc.), or with the chain-pusher (e.g.
hidden dirt, seized bearing: you may need to remove the chain pusher from the frame).

SUMMARY OF DERAILLEUR CABLE CHANGE.

1. Remove rear wheel.
Dec-11 cab hubg ds

REPLACING BROMPTON HUB-GEAR CABLES.

As a result of changes to the Brompton, different cables are required for different models:
a long-wheel-base M-type bike (one shipped after January 2004, and with a main-frame hinge
which is cast) requires longer rear cables than a short-wheel-base M-type (where the hinge is
forged, with a hand-brazed joint): M-types were formerly called L- or T-type.
also the gear cables used on an M-type, P-type, H-type and S-type are all different.
Make sure that you have the right length cable for the bike in question. The application sheet
shows for which model this cable is suited.
As a general rule when replacing cables, correct cable routing is vital, with the outers being exactly
the same length (+/- 2mm) as the original cables. If a cable outer is too short, the cable will be
damaged through stretching during folding, and if too long, will hook up on other parts. The cable
supplied will either be 5mm helical without ferrules, or 4mm linear with a 5mm ferrule at each end.
You will find that cable ties are supplied: you will only need these if the original cable you are
replacing has a dynamo wiring loom attached to it. Fit the new ties at the same position as those you
replace: in particular, the rearmost tie on a rear control-cable must be just aft of the centre cable
guide, CGC (not in front of the CGC).

subtext cable routing

Correct routing of the control cables is essential if these are not to be damaged during folding. All
cables MUST pass in front of the handlebar, to the left of the handlebar stem and to the right of the
main frame tube.
The front brake cable must pass:
a) through the body of the cable gatherer, CABGATH (outer cable in two parts)
b) through the forward cable guide, CGF, and
c) to the left of the front mudguard (for a C-type, see note
fig
below). CR1
The rear cable(s) must pass:
a) through the ring on the cable gatherer, CABGATH,
b) through the centre cable guide, CGC, CABGATH
c) inside the tube TT, CGF
d) through the rear cable guide, CGR, as shown, and
e) for the brake cable, BRCABR, inside the tube SS
BRCABR
The gear cable(s) GCAB should lie below the brake cable,
BRCABR. If there are two gear cables, then the derailleur cable SS
should lie below the hub-gear cable.
When replacing the front brake cable outers, leave the
CABGATH on the rear cable(s), and then feed the new outers
(shorter part on top) onto the CABGATH.
When replacing a cable to which a dynamo wiring loom is GCAB
attached, cut the tie wraps holding the loom to the old cable, and CGC
TT
re-tie the loom (at the same spots as before) to the new cable: on
a rear cable the rearmost tie must lie just aft of the CGC, not in CGR
front of it. (If the loom is a Mk 2 type, which reverses inside a
rubber sleeve just under the CABGATH, use two tiewraps here, and pull them extra tight to prevent
slipping.)
Note re bikes without mudguards: the LH front fork will either have a fender disc or a brazed-on
wire loop: the brake cable must pass outside these (and not through the loop).

subtext gtrigb3 cable fitting

Changing a cable at the Brompton RH trigger.
There is normally no need to remove the trigger-cover.
To fit the inner wire to the trigger, set the trigger lever in the middle CV
gear position and lightly push the lever in direction 1 (fig.GTR7) to S
open up the cable loading window 2.
The existing inner wire can now be pushed back through the window
2.
The new inner wire should be fed through the window 2 as shown, in
direction 3

TIP. Rotating the inner wire slightly while feeding the inner wire
through the control can assist
TN
loading/unloading. If you experience fig GTR7
trouble feeding the new wire in through
the trigger nipple hole, set the control
as shown in fig GTR7 and look for the hole in the trigger nipple TN
through the window and then visually guide the inner wire into the
trigger nipple
fig
GTR8
Fig. GTR8 shows the route the wire should take through the control.

subtext gadj hub

Hub-Gear adjustment.
Adjustment of the gear control must be carried out with the bike fully unfolded (i.e NOT parked),
and with the indicator rod screwed fully home into the hub (and backed off not more than half a
turn to align with the cable). The aim is to make sure that the indicator rod & chain down at the the
rear axle moves to the correct position in response to moving the trigger. For this the cable has to
be running well: it must be free of kinks or sharp radii, with the cable pulley rolling freely.
While setting gears, you should ensure that the gear you select by moving the control trigger has
indeed engaged in the hub, and to this end, each time you are moving the trigger, keep the wheel
spinning forwards, and pedal back and forwards, to ensure the gear engages. It's easiest, when
actually altering the setting, to have the cable slack: so select top gear and back and forward pedal a
bit first.
If you cannot obtain a satisfactory setting, then the most likely cause is either the cable not running
freely, or damage to the indicator chain itself, where it runs into the axle end. Otherwise, the fault
may be with the hub internals.
SRAM 3-spd gear adjustment:.
C
The cable is made tighter by pushing the adjustor A further onto the
grooved end B of the indicator chain GICH: to obtain a looser D
setting, the spring clip C has to be depressed.
D CPULA
B
You can usually get things right first time by moving the trigger into
top gear, pulling on the adjustor (away from the pulley housing
A
CPULA), and then feeding the grooved end B of the indicator chain
into the adjustor until it is just not loose, i.e. WITHOUT pulling the fig AR5
indicator chain out of the axle at all. The setting is correct when:- bike unfolded

with the trigger in top, the cable is just slack (with a Brompton Y-
trigger fitted, there should be up to 5mm side-to-side GICH
movement at D-D, and with a Sram Torpedo trigger, rather
 less), in other words neither flopping around too much, nor taut. If, when you try pulling the
adjustor A away from the CPULA, you can see any movement of the indicator chain back into
the axle where it enters it, then the setting is too tight, and
with the trigger in low, the indicator chain (where it enters the end of the axle) should either
move not at all, or perhaps up to 1mm, when you pull the adjustor towards the CPULA (if it
moves more than this, then the setting is probably too loose: on the other hand, if, while back-
pedalling and moving the trigger slowly from mid- to low-position, you see that the indicator
chain stops moving out of the end of the axle before the trigger has clicked into low-position,
then the setting is probably too tight), and
when pedalling forwards (under no load) and changing through the 3 gears, both up and down,
all three gears are positively selected.

STURMEY ARCHER 3-spd & 5-spd adjustment: B

Adjustment is carried out by slackening the lock nut N, turning the N

barrel B to obtain correct setting, and relocking the nut N. Ensure CPULA
the indicator rod is the correct length for the hub-type.

3-speed. Engage top gear,

then move the control fig AR6
trigger to the middle
position: the step, S,
towards the end of the
indicator rod, IR, should be
level with the end of the axle, visible through the hole in
the CTN. Next, select bottom gear, then middle, then top,
and check that all three are engaging correctly.

5-speed, fig AR15 (Note: the GRA must be aligned with

fig AR13 the cable/indicator-chain, fig AR12). Engage top gear, then
move the control trigger to position 2 (2nd bottom gear):
the annular groove, SR, coloured red or blue, towards the end
SR
of the indicator rod, should lie level with the end of the axle.
Next change down and then up through all the gears, and check IR
that all gears engage cleanly, fine tuning the setting if needed. In
practice, you may find that, with the gears functioning correctly,
the groove SR lies (when in 2nd gear) somewhere between the
end of the axle and 1.5mm out from the end of the axle (i.e. a
slightly tighter setting): but bear in mind that, when in top, the
indicator chain, GICH, should be just slack. Next, test the gear
selection under load by riding the bike, again changing down and
up through all the gears.

fig AR15
Dec-09

Brompton Cable gatherer (CABGATH) replacement:

Ensure that you have the correct part to suit the front brake cable: if the front brake cable has no
ferrule where it enters the CABGATH, use a black CABGATH, but if there is a 6mm ferrule
(needed on linear outers), use a grey CABGATH.

Unfortunately it is necessary to disconnect all the cables (including wiring loom if present) in
order to fit the CABGATH: as the ends of the inner cables could fray once disconnected, you
may have to fit new inners on re-assembly.

You will find that cable ties are supplied: you will only need these if the original cable gatherer you
are replacing has a dynamo wiring loom attached to it. Fit the new ties at the same position as
those you replace: in particular, the rearmost tie on a rear control-cable must be just aft of the
centre cable guide, CGC (not in front of the CGC).

subtext cable routing

Correct routing of the control cables is essential if these are not to be damaged during folding.
All cables MUST pass in front of the handlebar, to the left of the handlebar stem and to the right
of the main frame tube.
The front brake cable must pass:
a) through the body of the cable gatherer, CABGATH (outer cable in two parts)
b) through the forward cable guide, CGF, and
c) to the left of the front mudguard (for a C-type, see note below).
The rear cable(s) must pass:
a) through the ring on the cable gatherer, CABGATH, fig
b) through the centre cable guide, CGC, CR1
c) inside the tube TT,
d) through the rear cable guide, CGR, as shown, and
e) for the brake cable, BRCABR, inside the tube SS CABGATH

The gear cable(s) GCAB should lie below the brake cable, CGF
BRCABR. If there are two gear cables, then the derailleur cable
should lie below the hub-gear cable. BRCABR
When replacing a cable to which a dynamo wiring loom is
attached, cut the tie wraps holding the loom to the old cable, SS
and re-tie the loom (at the same spots as before) to the new
cable: on a rear cable the rearmost tie must lie just aft of the
CGC, not in front of it. (If the loom is a Mk 2 type, which
reverses inside a rubber sleeve just under the CABGATH, use
two tiewraps here, and pull them extra tight to prevent GCAB
slipping.)
CGC
TT
Note re bikes without mudguards: the LH front fork will either
have a fender disc or a brazed-on wire loop: the brake cable CGR
must pass outside these (and not through the loop).
 2. Disconnect the cable at the trigger. Take care not to lose the small parts here.
3. Down on the rear frame, move the outer cable forward to expose the inner cable.
4. Undo and remove the set-screw (3mm hex key) at the back of the "dog-leg", but, to avoid
damage to the threads while doing this, relieve the spring pressure by gripping the inner
cable with pliers and pulling forwards (with care to avoid damage).
5. Remove the inner cable. Check that the actuator is rotating freely between its stops (now's
the time to rectify if there's a problem).
6. Remove old parts and fit the new ones. Feed the inner cable back in place (through the
overide spring).
7. Fit the set-screw back in the dog leg, again gripping the inner cable and pulling forwards to
compress the spring. Do not overtighten the set screw: it should end up recessed in the dog-
leg by about 2mm.
8. Move the outer cable backwards to engage in the cable stop.
9. Connect the top end of the inner cable to the lever, but don't forget to have the cable
ferrule in place on the outer cable first. While clamping the inner cable in the threaded
nipple, the cable end should abut the special "step" in the lever moulding.
10. Fit the lever to the trigger, selecting the correct slot for the ferrule, and fit the cap to the
trigger.
11. Check that the cable setting is OK.
12. Fit the rear wheel and check function, finally resetting stop(s) if needed.

subtext rw summary
REAR WHEEL – SUMMARY OF PROCEDURE FOR REMOVAL AND REFITTING.
Removal:
1. Move gear-trigger(s) up to high, and pedal forward & back to engage the high gear(s)
2. If the bike has a hub-gear, disconnect the gear-indicator-chain from the cable-anchorage, unscrew
the gear-indicator-rod and withdraw the rod from inside the axle.
3. Remove the chain-tensioner: unhook drive-chain from swinging arm, undo chain-tensioner nut,
and withdraw the chain tensioner.
4. Slacken off the main axle-nuts and remove wheel (if tab-washers are stuck, they will normally
come loose if you tap the wheel gently from side to side). To get the tyre past the brake blocks,
either deflate the tyre or remove the LH brake block.

Re-fitting (with hub-gears, make sure that the tab-washers engage correctly in axle-plate):
1. With the chain in place over the (outer) sprocket, drop the axle into the axle-plates (the correct
way round if it has “handed” tab-washers).
2. Make sure the drive-chain isn’t trapped, and secure the wheel nuts over the washers.
3. Fit the chain-tensioner (with a derailleur, the fixed-idler-wheel must lie between the two plates of
the actuator). Secure using the chain-tensioner-nut and washer, but don’t overtighten the nut.
4. Feed the chain over the idler-wheels on the chain-tensioner, and check chain flow.
5. For hub-gears, if present:
a. screw the gear-indicator-rod right into the axle, backing off not more than half a turn to
align it, and connect gear-indicator-chain to the cable-anchorage.
b. Adjust the gears and make sure that all 3 gears are engaging OK.
6. For derailleaur gears, if present, check function and adjust with M4 grub-screws in actuator if
necessary.
7. If you removed a brake-pad, re-fit it.
Full details for wheel removal and re-fitting are in the Owner’s Manual.
Dec-11 cab dr set ds

FITTING A COMPLETE REPLACEMENT DERAILLEUR CABLE SET

As a result of changes to the Brompton, different cables are required for different models:
a long-wheel-base M-type bike (one shipped after January 2004, and with a main-frame hinge
which is cast) requires longer rear cables than a short-wheel-base M-type (where the hinge is
forged, with a hand-brazed joint): M-types were formerly called L- or T-type.
The P-type and H-type use the same cables. The M-type has its own cables as does the S-type.

Make sure that you have the right length cable for the bike in question. The application sheet
shows for which model this cable is suited.
Remove the rear wheel (summary below, and full details are given in the Owner Manual).

subtext dr cab trig rem

Disconnect cable at trigger. Move the derailleur lever up. Unscrew the screw holding the trigger
cap, and remove the cap. Lift the lever, with the cable still attached, away from the trigger housing.
Slacken the small grub screw in the threaded nipple TN where the cable is anchored (1.5mm hex key
needed), and withdraw the cable: take care not to lose the threaded nipple, which can drop out the
moment the cable is withdrawn.
Undo the M3 x 30 screw (fig DR9): before removing it from engagement with the dogleg DL, grip the
spring so that it does not suddenly extend. With the screw withdrawn, allow the spring to extend bit
by bit in a controlled way, till it's fully relaxed.
Withdraw the inner cable from the outer, remove the outer, and discard unwanted parts (if the the
dynamo wiring loom is attached to the derailleur cable, then it needs to be disconnected by cutting
the tiewraps: spares are supplied for reconnection later). Check that the actuator, CHPUA, is able to
rotate freely between the two positions. If there are signs of stiffness (and these are not caused by
visible dirt), now is the time to replace it or its bearing.

dr retro fit ds, part

For the outer cable, correct routing is important, fig CR1. fig CR1
The derailleur cable should lie under the other two rear
cables, so push them up and out of the way while feeding it
through. And, for neatness at the front end, avoid twisting
the new cable around the others.
You can feed the outer cable from the front or the rear: CABGATH
either way the cable must pass (starting at the rear end)
outside the forward leg of the rear cable guide CGR, inside
the tension tube TT, through the centre cable guide CGC,
and through the cable gatherer CABGATH. With the cable
in place, fit the forward cable stop, CSTF, over the back-end
CGR
of the cable (the CSTF to be the correct way round,
chamfer pointing aft), and then push the cable and the CSTF
aft till the chamfer on the CSTF is a snug fit against the loop
in the cable guide CGR. Finally fit the CSTRA through the
loop in CGR and into the CSTF.

CGC

TT
CSTRA CGR CSTF fig
DR6
Let the other cables fall back down to their normal routing. Leave the forward end of the derailleur
cable unconnected for the time being.

Inner cable and spring:

fig DR8
DL Feed the spring, fig DR8, onto the front of the inner cable, and let the
spring pass outside the spring tube ST to rest against the dogleg DL.
Next, feed the inner cable through the cable stops and into the outer
cable from the rear.
ST
The dogleg DL at the end of the cable now has to be connected to the
CHPUA, fig DR9, which involves compressing the spring (note: you may well find this easier with the
bike upside-down, i.e. not as in fig DR9). If you are to avoid kinking the inner cable (which is
important), you have to take care during this stage not to allow the spring to jump loose! You need
both hands to compress the spring: so have the M3x30 screw to hand, ready for fitting while you
hold the spring compressed. To compress
the spring, feed 20mm or 30mm at a time fig DR9
DL
onto the spring tube, ST, gripping it in
place each time. Move the "dogleg" and
spring-tube forwards till the forward end
of the spring tube ST has entered the
cable-stop CSTRA: the dogleg DL should
now be in the correct position for
connecting to the
chain pusher, CSTRA
fig DR10 CHPUA. With
CHPUA M3x30
one hand holding
the dogleg to
H keep the spring compressed, feed the screw down (or up) through hole H in
CHPUA, and right into the counterbored portion U of the dogleg: you can
U now relax. Do up the screw while supporting the dogleg: the action is fairly
stiff as the screw is cutting its own thread. When the screw becomes tight at
the end of its travel, back it off one full turn: the dogleg should not be
clamped tight against the CHPUA: there should be slight vertical play, and the
CHPUA must still be free (now against spring pressure) to rotate to and fro.
If there is any stiffness, back off the screw a bit further.

subtext dr cab trig fit

Connecting the cable to the trigger.
Note about overide spring. By design, the trigger moves the cable almost twice as far as is needed to effect
the gear change: so, while the trigger is being pulled down, the actuator on the rear-frame will reach the low-
gear position before the trigger is fully down, the excess cable movement being absorbed by the overide spring
at the bottom end of the cable. This means a) that, with the trigger up (high gear), it is OK to have a little
slack (up to about 3mm) in the cable, and b) that, as the cable stretches over time, no cable-adjustment is
needed. The procedure outlined below for connecting the cable will keep the initial slack to a minimum, so
that as much as possible of the trigger motion is reserved to cope with future cable
stretch. fig
DR22
Down on the rear-frame, check that the two cable stops are pressed against
the loop on the cable guide CGR, and that the cable outer is seating properly in
its cable-stop. (If you have made any changes to the actuator (CHPUA), the
high-gear stop screw should have been set.)
GTF
Don't forget to fit the cable-stop GTF over the loose end of the cable first, fig DR22. Also (if
necessary) slacken off the grub screw in the threaded nipple TN far enough for the inner cable to
pass through.
Next, fig DR23, with the TN in place through the hole in the lever (and the lever still out of the
trigger housing) feed the inner cable through the nipple TN at the angle shown till the cable abuts
the surface K on the lever. Do up the screw in the nipple to secure the cable. [Note: if you allow
more cable to extend past the nipple than is allowed by surface K, this loose end will interfere with
the free movement of the lever, and cause poor gear-changing.]
Now, holding the ferrule GTF in one hand and
the lever in your other hand, pull the inner cable fig DR23
out a couple of times (taking care not to kink the
cable). You will feel the resistance of the springs: GTF
this action should make sure that the cable ends
and stops are all settled correctly in place. K
TN
When assembling the lever into the trigger F
housing, the bike should be fully unfolded in order to set the cable correctly. This correct setting is
obtained by fitting the ferrule GTF so that its flange F engages one particular preferred slot of the
four slots S, fig DR24, in the housing. To do this, fit the lever part-way onto its pivot (the raised
boss), and then pull "gently" down (see note below) on the
ferrule, away from the lever: allow the lever to rotate anti- fig
clockwise till it turns no further. At this stage decide which DR24
slot to fit the ferrule into: the correct slot is the one in line
with the flange F, or else the next available slot nearer to
the trigger-lever (i.e. such that the cable-inner becomes
slightly slacker). Feed the lever fully into position on its pivot
in the housing, and let the cable ferrule drop squarely into
the selected slot. Secure the trigger cap back into place,
squeezing it together towards the housing where the cable
enters.
Note: when putting a pre-load onto the cable, this must be a
gentle pre-load only, to take up the slack without moving
S
the inner relative to the outer, i.e. a load just sufficient to
make sure that the cable outer abuts properly against its
stops.
If an appropriate slot for the GTF cannot be found, the cause may be a) that the cable outer is not
seating correctly in the CSTF or in the GTF, b) that the CSTF is not bearing against the loop in the
CGR, or else c) that the cable supplied is the wrong length (the outer should be 1173mm and the
inner (excluding the nipple) 1297mm).
Checking that the cable is set OK at the trigger.
Operate the trigger a few times, and move it back to the fig DR2
UP position. The actuator CHPUA should be fully "out",
with the stop-screw H contacting the surface SH of the
"wing plate": if it isn't in contact, then the cable is too SH
tight, and the ferrule GTF needs to be moved up a slot SL
in the trigger. Also check for play in the cable: grasp the
cable outer just where it comes out of the trigger and pull it up and down, but not hard enough to
move the CHPUA: if there is more than 3mm of slack, then the ferrule GTF needs to be moved
down a slot. A further check is to move the trigger slowly down from the up position: the CHPUA
should complete its movement to the inner, low-gear position well before the trigger has latched
down.
If the bike has a wiring loom which has been detached from the derailleur cable, use the tiewraps
supplied to re-attach it. The rearmost tiewrap must be aft of the CGC, not in front of it.
Fit the rear wheel and chain tensioner. For bikes with hub gears, reconnect the hub-gear control.
Check the derailleur adjustment. Details elsewhere in these notes.
subtext gadj dr
DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT.
After any changes or maintenance on the rear frame fittings or wheel, the settings should be
checked. With a new chain pusher, the
derailleur stop screws must be adjusted. DL
You should also be aware that, for
satisfactory gear changes and smooth
running, apart from these stop screws,
two key elements of the system have to
move freely: the actuator (or "chain-
pusher"), and both idlers on the chain H
fig DR9
tensioner. L M3

Chain pusher adjustment.

Use the stop screws, fig DR9, on the chain
pusher. The idea is that, in high gear, the inner
face of the inner upright IU, fig DR16, shall be as
close as possible to the idler wheel, without any
rubbing pressure while the idler rotates (to give fig DR16
IU
the slickest change with minimum wear): when
the setting is right, you should just be able to see daylight between the two while turning the cranks
forwards, perhaps with occasional contact. Use a
2mm hex key in the forward stop screw H for
adjustment.
The same principle applies for the lower gear
setting, only this time, fig DR17, the inner face
of the outer upright OU has to just not rub on
the idler, and the rear stop screw L is used for
adjustment. OU fig DR17

Cable adjustment should seldom be

necessary, as the trigger moves the cable twice as far as the movement of the chain-pusher (an over-
ride spring inside the dogleg DL absorbs this movement).
Derailleur trouble shooting.
If the derailleur still malfunctions after adjustment, or if turning the adjustor screws has no useful
effect, and there is no obvious sign of dirt obstructing free movement, then the procedure for
diagnosis is as follows. Step 1, remove the chain tensioner: this allows you to identify whether the
problem lies with the idlers on the chain tensioner (they should be free to move in and out 7mm) or
with the chain-pusher. If the chain-pusher does not move freely, and the cause is not obvious, try
slackening the M3 screw slightly (there is supposed to be clearance). Step 2, remove this M3 screw
completely: this allows you to identify whether there is a problem with the cable and the dogleg link
DL (e.g. dirt on the spring, misalignment of cable and cable stops, etc.), or with the chain-pusher (e.g.
hidden dirt, seized bearing: you may need to remove the chain pusher from the frame).
subtext rw summary
REAR WHEEL – SUMMARY OF PROCEDURE FOR REMOVAL AND REFITTING.
Removal:
1. Move gear-trigger(s) up to high, and pedal forward & back to engage the high gear(s)
2. If the bike has a hub-gear, disconnect the gear-indicator-chain from the cable-anchorage, unscrew
the gear-indicator-rod and withdraw the rod from inside the axle.
3. Remove the chain-tensioner: unhook drive-chain from swinging arm, undo chain-tensioner nut,
and withdraw the chain tensioner.
4. Slacken off the main axle-nuts and remove wheel (if tab-washers are stuck, they will normally
come loose if you tap the wheel gently from side to side). To get the tyre past the brake blocks,
either deflate the tyre or remove the LH brake block.

Re-fitting (with hub-gears, make sure that the tab-washers engage correctly in axle-plate):
1. With the chain in place over the (outer) sprocket, drop the axle into the axle-plates (the correct
way round if it has “handed” tab-washers).
2. Make sure the drive-chain isn’t trapped, and secure the wheel nuts over the washers.
3. Fit the chain-tensioner (with a derailleur, the fixed-idler-wheel must lie between the two plates of
the actuator). Secure using the chain-tensioner-nut and washer, but don’t overtighten the nut.
4. Feed the chain over the idler-wheels on the chain-tensioner, and check chain flow.
5. For hub-gears, if present:
a. screw the gear-indicator-rod right into the axle, backing off not more than half a turn to
align it, and connect gear-indicator-chain to the cable-anchorage.
b. Adjust the gears and make sure that all 3 gears are engaging OK.
6. For derailleaur gears, if present, check function and adjust with M4 grub-screws in actuator if
necessary.
7. If you removed a brake-pad, re-fit it.
Full details for wheel removal and re-fitting are in the Owner’s Manual.
Dec-09

REPLACING DERAILLEUR ACTUATOR PARTS (CHAIN PUSHER, CHPUA).

If you are only replacing the actuator plate or the "wing-plate", there is no need to disconnect the
M3 screw linking the CHPUA to the dogleg DL (fig DR9). For replacement of any other items, this
screw should be detached, and it's best if the rear wheel is removed. [Also, if the bearing is of the
original, ball-bearing type, we strongly recommend that while working on this part of the bike, you
replace this with the new plain bearing (QCHPUBRGA).]

Chain pusher bearing.

Note: if you are fitting a new bearing, the original bearing may be a ball bearing assembly, combined
with a special thick washer W (fig DR5). This has now been superseded, and you will now have been
supplied with a new plain bearing, which needs to be fitted with a standard M5 washer at W, and a
longer screw, M5 x 16 rather than M5 x 12.
1. With the derailleur up (in high gear), remove the chain tensioner, and get the chain out of the
way.
2. With the derailleur trigger down (in low gear), remove the M3 x 30 screw (fig DR9, below).
Because the wheel is so close, this can be a bit awkward: life is easier if you remove the rear
wheel.
3. Undo the main mounting screw (3mm hex key, M5 button head), and lift the assembly from
its mounting boss HXB. Unless you are replacing it, don't lose the washer W.
4. Undo the three M4 screws (2.5mm hex key, two button-head and one countersunk screw),
and remove them and the plate..
5. Push the old bearing out from the nylon chain-pusher-
body V, and remove any dirt from the housing.
6. The new bearing, fig DR13, comprises an inner acetal
disc IAD with a small raised boss, a hollow stainless HXB
spindle, SPIN, with two bosses (the shorter of which W
must engage the IAD), and an outer acetal disc OAD, fig DR5
with a larger raised boss. The two acetal discs are a V
gentle press fit into the recess in the chain-pusher- M5x16
body, V, and the three parts should be fitted (with
grease on the spindle) as per figure DR13.
7. Reassemble the plate. Take
care not to cross-thread nor V fig DR13
to overtighten these, as this
could strip the thread in the
nylon.
8. Feed the M5 x 16 screw
through the spindle and the IAD SPIN OAD
M5 washer W, screw it into
the boss HXB (taking care not to drop the washer W), and secure firmly. Check that the
assembly can rotate freely to and fro. Because of the way the new bearing is assembled, there
may be some initial stiffness in the bearing: if there is, this must be got rid of; this is done
simply by applying a firm rocking force to the CHPUA, left to right and fore/aft. If the bearing
remains stiff, there is no point proceeding further, as it must be free.
9. Feed the M3 screw through the chain pusher body, and into the dogleg DL (fig DR9, below),
and do it up. Do not overtighten the screw, and when it reaches the end of its travel, back it
 off one full turn: the dogleg should not be clamped tight against the CHPUA. Check that
the CHPUA can still rotate freely.
10. Fit the rear wheel, if it was removed. With the trigger up, fit the chain to the outer sprocket,
fit the chain tensioner, and check the adjustment as below.

Chain pusher plate.

Follow steps 1, 4, 7 & 10 above. When re-fitting the plate, take care not to push down too hard
when doing up the three screws.

Chain pusher "wing-plate".

Follow steps 1 and 3 above. fig
WP

Prise the old wing plate off the boss HXB, taking care DR1
not to skew it as you do so, and remove the plastic
washer SP. SP

Place the
fig DR2 new plastic
spacer, SP, HXB
over the hex
SH boss, fig
SL DR1, and address the wing plate WP to this boss. The
orientation must be as shown in fig DR2 (the two
surfaces SH & SL facing outwards): address the wing plate to the hex boss so that you feel the male
hex starting to key into the hole in the wing plate (if necessary, try the wing
plate the other way up). Using a suitable drift, tap the wing plate down till it's
near-enough flush with the end of the hex boss (fig DR3). If the wing plate is
a loose fit, then apply some paint (or other suitable "filler") to the boss HXB.

Follow steps 8 & 10 above to refit the actuator and chain tensioner.
fig DR3

Chain pusher assembly complete:

Note: if you are fitting a new assembly, the bearing in the old assy you are replacing may be a ball-
bearing, combined with a special thick washer W (fig DR5). This has now been superseded, and the
assembly now supplied has a new plain bearing, which needs to be fitted with a standard M5 washer
at W, and a longer screw, M5 x 16 rather than M5 x 12.

Follow steps 1, 2, 3, 8, 9 & 10 above.

subtext gadjdr

DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT.
After any changes or maintenance on the rear frame fittings or wheel, the settings should be
checked. With a new chain pusher, the derailleur stop screws must be adjusted.
You should also be aware that, for satisfactory gear changes and smooth running, apart from these
stop screws, two key elements of the system have to move freely: the actuator (or "chain-pusher"),
and both idlers on the chain tensioner.
DL
Chain pusher adjustment.
Use the stop screws, fig DR9, on the chain
pusher. The idea is that, in high gear, the
inner face of the inner upright IU, fig DR16,
shall be as close as possible to the idler
wheel, without any rubbing pressure while H
fig DR9
the idler rotates (to give the slickest L M3
change with minimum wear): when the
setting is right, you should just be able to see
daylight between the two while turning the
cranks forwards, perhaps with occasional contact.
Use a 2mm hex key in the forward stop screw H
for adjustment.
The same principle applies for the lower gear
setting, only this time, fig DR17, the inner face of IU
fig DR16
the outer upright OU has to just not rub on the
idler, and the rear stop screw L is used for
adjustment.

Cable adjustment should seldom be

necessary, as the trigger moves the cable twice
as far as the movement of the chain-pusher (an
over-ride spring inside the dogleg DL absorbs
this movement). OU fig DR17

Derailleur trouble shooting.

If the derailleur still malfunctions after adjustment, or if turning the adjustor screws has no useful
effect, and there is no obvious sign of dirt obstructing free movement, then the procedure for
diagnosis is as follows. Step 1, remove the chain tensioner: this allows you to identify whether the
problem lies with the idlers on the chain tensioner (they should be free to move in and out 7mm) or
with the chain-pusher. If the chain-pusher does not move freely, and the cause is not obvious, try
slackening the M3 screw slightly (there is supposed to be clearance). Step 2, remove this M3 screw
completely: this allows you to identify whether there is a problem with the cable and the dogleg link
DL (e.g. dirt on the spring, misalignment of cable and cable stops, etc.), or with the chain-pusher (e.g.
hidden dirt, seized bearing: you may need to remove the chain pusher from the frame).
Jan-12 cta ds

subtext ctarem
Removing the chain tensioner:
Park the bike, with the gear trigger(s) in top gear and high gear(s) engaged (back pedal and forward pedal
to engage).

Hub-gear control: on a bike with a Sram 3-spd, press the spring clip CTIDL
C on the adjustor A to disconnect the adjustor from the gear chain:
on a bike with a Sturmey hub, slacken off the knurled locknut N and CTARM
unscrew the barrel B. A CTN
The gear (indicator) chain GICH will GICH
CPULA be left hanging loose from the end of B
the axle and should be unscrewed
B from the hub and withdrawn. On a 5- C
CPULA
speed, the guide roller assembly GRA
must also be withdrawn from the end fig AR3
N
of the axle.

Move the sprung arm, CTARM, anti clockwise and lift the chain off; allow the
CTARM to move back clockwise until it comes to a stop; undo the securing
GRA nut CTN (on a 3/6-speed this is a special nut, and on a 1/2/5-speed it is a
standard wheel nut) and remove it together with its washer(s); the chain
tensioner assembly may now be removed by drawing it sideways off the end
of the axle.
fig AR12

subtext ctafit CTIDL fig DR14

Fitting the chain tensioner: B
First arrange the chain so that it is running true over both
chainwheel and rear sprocket (on a derailleur, providing high gear
is selected, this should be the outer sprocket); next, the chain
tensioner body has two flanges on its inner face - these pass
either side of the axle plate when fitting the chain tensioner;
address the chain tensioner to the axle plate and press home,
making sure that the fixed idler sprocket CTIDL lies above (with
the rear frame inverted) the chain as per fig AR3. For a derailleur bike, the chain and the fixed idler on the
chain-tensioner-base, CTIDLB, have to lie between the "uprights" of the chain-pusher-plate: so, with the
LH trigger up and the chain-tensioner inclined slightly outwards as in fig DR14 (chain not shown in this
figure), feed the idler CTIDLB between these uprights, and then feed the chain-tensioner base onto the
rear axle plate till it abuts squarely.
Next secure the chain tensioner:
on a 3-speed, use the chain tensioner nut CTN and its washer. Though similar, the nut and washer
needed on a Sturmey hub are different from those for Sram: the Sturmey nut should NOT be done up
too tight, a little firmer than hand tight suffices (max torque 5NM). For a Sram hub, up to 8NM.
on a 5-speed, use a standard wheel nut, with the anti-rotation washer under this nut, and with the tab
washer (TBW) abutting the chain tensioner. It is essential that the TBW, which provides location for the
guide roller assy (GRA) is at the correct angle, such that the GRA aligns with the indicator chain when
that is connected to the control cable. To obtain the correct position, screw on the nut, just tight
enough to prevent the tab washer from moving: fit the GRA over the TBW, and turn it (and the TBW)
clockwise until it points accurately towards the cable pulley assy. (CPULA). Remove the GRA, and do up
the nut firmly, but not too tight (torque approx. 10NM): take care not to knock the TBW whilst doing
this. Misalignment can cause poor gear selection and damage to the hub.
If fitting a new chain tensioner to a non-derailleur bike, check at this stage
whether the idler wheels, CTIDL, are in line with the rear sprocket (fig CT3). If
not, then check that the rear sprocket has the correct spacers: if these are OK,
then add or remove washers W under the idler wheels.
Now draw up the slack in the chain and feed it over the idler wheel on the
sprung arm CTARM (you have to part-fold the rear frame to do this) - check
that the chain is flowing correctly when turning the cranks.
Next, for a bike with hub-gears, screw the indicator chain GICH into the hub,
and make sure it is fully screwed home. On a 5-speed, fit the GRA and push it
home firmly.
fig CT3
STRIPPING DOWN THE CHAIN TENSIONER ASSEMBLY ITSELF.
When the assembled CTA is off the bike, the swinging arm, CTARM, is being urged by the spring to bear
against boss B: before taking it completely apart you have to lift the CTARM away from the base, CTB, and
allow it to move clockwise over boss B to the position shown
dotted (where the spring is relaxed). The correct procedure is:

undo the centre screw, S, by 3 turns,

lift the CTARM and allow the spring to move it round till
the spring is relaxed,
undo screw S completely: be careful not to lose the inner
washer W2

Re-assembly:
Lightly grease the outside of the spacer, CTSP (fig T4), feed the screw S through the washer W1 and the
CTSP, and press these through the bore of the CTARM. Hold the
CTARM with the inner side upwards (with a finger on the screw S to
stop it falling out) and fit the spring into it so that the tongue T1 enters
the groove G. Fit the washer W2 over the projecting end of the screw S.
It is vital not to omit this washer and to make sure that it does not fall off
during assembly.
Address the CTB to the spring (oriented roughly as in fig T4), so that the
tongue T2 enters its groove and push it down against the end of the
screw S (avoid pushing out the pressed-in nut in the CTB). Do up the
screw S by 2 1/2 turns. Now move the CTARM anti-clockwise (as viewed
in Fig T3) past boss B, and push it down against the CTB. Finish doing up
the screw S, and secure firmly. The two parts of the chain tensioner
should now move freely: if they don't, the washer W2 has almost
certainly fallen from its place, or else one of the tongues of the spring is
not seated correctly.

Derailleur chain tensioner idlers etc.

Prise off the cap on the side of the idler wheel with a small screw-driver. Undo the M4 screw (2.5mm hex
key), and remove this screw, with the spindle, idler-wheel and washer.
If changing the nut pressed into the moulding, tap it out with a M4W
suitable drift, and fit the new one.
On reassembly, smear a little grease on the spindle. Also, do not fig
forget to fit the large M4 washer under the spindle. CT4
Check that the idler is spinning freely (and moving in/out OK: there should be 7mm of travel).
subtext gadj hub
HUB-GEAR ADJUSTMENT.
Adjustment of the gear control must be carried out with the bike fully unfolded (i.e NOT parked),
and with the indicator rod screwed fully home into the hub (and backed off not more than half a
turn to align with the cable). The aim is to make sure that the indicator rod & chain down at the the
rear axle moves to the correct position in response to moving the trigger. For this the cable has to
be running well: it must be free of kinks or sharp radii, with the cable pulley rolling freely.
While setting gears, you should ensure that the gear you select by moving the control trigger has
indeed engaged in the hub, and to this end, each time you are moving the trigger, keep the wheel
spinning forwards, and pedal back and forwards, to ensure the gear engages. It's easiest, when
actually altering the setting, to have the cable slack: so select top gear and back and forward
pedal a bit first.
If you cannot obtain a satisfactory setting, then the most likely cause is either the cable not
running freely, or damage to the indicator chain itself, where it runs into the axle end. Otherwise,
the fault may be with the hub internals. C
SRAM 3-spd gear adjustment:. D
The cable is made tighter by pushing the adjustor A further onto
the grooved end B of the indicator chain GICH: to obtain a looser B D CPULA
setting, the spring clip C has to be depressed.
A
You can usually get things right first time by moving the trigger into
top gear, pulling on the adjustor (away from the pulley housing fig AR5
CPULA), and then feeding the grooved end B of the indicator bike unfolded
chain into the adjustor until it is just not loose, i.e. WITHOUT
pulling the indicator chain out of the axle at all. The setting is GICH
correct when:-
with the trigger in top, the cable is just slack (with a Brompton Y-trigger fitted, there should
be up to 5mm side-to-side movement at D-D, and with a Sram Torpedo trigger, rather less),
in other words neither flopping around too much, nor taut. If, when you try pulling the adjustor
A away from the CPULA, you can see any movement of the indicator chain back into the axle
where it enters it, then the setting is too tight, and
with the trigger in low, the indicator chain (where it enters the end of the axle) should either
move not at all, or perhaps up to 1mm, when you pull the adjustor towards the CPULA (if it
moves more than this, then the setting is probably too loose: on the other hand, if, while
back-pedalling and moving the trigger slowly from mid- to low-position, you see that the
indicator chain stops moving out of the end of the axle before the trigger has clicked into low-
position, then the setting is probably too tight), and
when pedalling forwards (under no load) and changing through the 3 gears, both up and
down, all three gears are positively selected.
STURMEY ARCHER 3-spd & 5-spd adjustment:
B
Adjustment is carried out by
slackening the lock nut N, turning the
N
barrel B to obtain correct setting, and CPULA
relocking the nut N. Ensure the
indicator rod is the correct length for
the hub-type.
3-speed. Engage top gear, then fig AR6
move the control trigger to the middle
position: the step, S, towards the end
of the indicator rod, IR, should be
level with the end of the axle, visible
through the hole in the CTN. Next, select bottom gear, then
fig AR13 middle, then top, and check that all three are engaging correctly.
 SR
5-speed, fig AR15 (Note: the GRA must be aligned with the
cable/indicator-chain, fig AR12). Engage top gear, then move the IR
control trigger to position 2 (2nd bottom gear): the annular
groove, SR, coloured red or blue, towards the end of the indicator
rod, should lie level with the end of the axle. Next change down
and then up through all the gears, and check that all gears
engage cleanly, fine tuning the setting if needed. In practice, you
may find that, with the gears functioning correctly, the groove SR
lies (when in 2nd gear) somewhere between the end of the axle
and 1.5mm out from the end of the axle (i.e. a slightly tighter
setting): but bear in mind that, when in top, the indicator chain,
GICH, should be just slack. Next, test the gear selection under fig AR15
load by riding the bike, again changing down and up through all
the gears.

subtext gadj dr modified

DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT.
After any changes or maintenance on the rear
frame fittings or wheel, the settings should be DL
checked, using the derailleur stop screws for
adjustment.
You should also be aware that, for satisfactory
gear changes and smooth running, apart from
these stop screws, two key elements of the
system have to move freely: the actuator (or H
"chain-pusher"), and both idlers on the chain fig DR9
L M3
tensioner.

Chain pusher adjustment.

Use the stop screws, fig DR9, on the chain pusher. The
idea is that, in high gear, the inner face of the inner
upright IU, fig DR16, shall be as close as possible to the
idler wheel, without any rubbing pressure while the idler
rotates (to give the slickest change with minimum wear):
IU fig DR16 when the setting is right, you should just be able to see
daylight between the two while turning the cranks
forwards, perhaps with occasional contact. Use a
2mm hex key in the forward stop screw H for
adjustment.
The same principle applies for the lower gear setting,
only this time, fig DR17, the inner face of the outer
upright OU has to just not rub on the idler, and the
rear stop screw L is used for adjustment.
OU fig DR17
Cable adjustment should seldom be necessary, as
the trigger moves the cable twice as far as the
movement of the chain-pusher (an over-ride spring inside the dogleg DL absorbs this movement).

If you have problems obtaining slick derailleur gear changes, refer to the Dealer or Owner Manual
for some tips.
Feb-11 fcba ds
FRONT CARRIER BLOCK.
Check that you have all the parts shown in the diagram below.
If fitting for the first time, remove the two set screws in the brazed-on mounting block on the head tube: Older bikes - black nylon with slot,
newer bikes - steel with 2.5mm hex drive.
It is vital that you do not omit either of the serrated washers ‘W’ when fitting the retaining plate ‘RP’ and that the correct torque is used on the
screws ‘SHS’.
The blue patches on the screws are there to lock them in place. Do not tamper with, remove or expose this patch to moisture as the locking
action will be greatly reduced.

Fitting instructions
You need a 4mm Allen key and a Posidriv screw-driver: Assemble the retaining plate ‘RP’ and one of the M5 socket head screws ‘SHS’, together with its
washer ‘W’ into the body of the carrier block ‘FCB’. Address this to the head tube on the bicycle the correct way up as shown.

Do up the first screw, but do not tighten. ST

Insert and do up the second screw with washer
RP
‘W’.
Finally tighten both screws firmly to a Torque of
4N m
Feed the bottom end of the latch lever ‘LL’
through the hole in the base of the carrier block
‘FCB’ and then, holding the bottom of the latch
lever, position the top of the latch lever inside the
carrier block.
Feed the self tapping screw ‘ST’ through the hole
in the latch lever and secure firmly into the carrier
block.
FCB W
SHS LL
The screw ‘ST’ must be fully screwed home:
If the latch is not properly locked in place, it will be ineffective and luggage may fall off, which is dangerous.

Feb-11 fcba ds
FRONT CARRIER BLOCK.
Check that you have all the parts shown in the diagram below.
If fitting for the first time, remove the two set screws in the brazed-on mounting block on the head tube: Older bikes - black nylon with slot,
newer bikes - steel with 2.5mm hex drive.
It is vital that you do not omit either of the serrated washers ‘W’ when fitting the retaining plate ‘RP’ and that the correct torque is used on the
screws ‘SHS’.
The blue patches on the screws are there to lock them in place. Do not tamper with, remove or expose this patch to moisture as the locking
action will be greatly reduced.

Fitting instructions
You need a 4mm Allen key and a Posidriv screw-driver: Assemble the retaining plate ‘RP’ and one of the M5 socket head screws ‘SHS’, together with its
washer ‘W’ into the body of the carrier block ‘FCB’. Address this to the head tube on the bicycle the correct way up as shown.

Do up the first screw, but do not tighten. ST

Insert and do up the second screw with washer
RP
‘W’.
Finally tighten both screws firmly to a Torque of
4N m
Feed the bottom end of the latch lever ‘LL’
through the hole in the base of the carrier block
‘FCB’ and then, holding the bottom of the latch
lever, position the top of the latch lever inside the
carrier block.
Feed the self tapping screw ‘ST’ through the hole
in the latch lever and secure firmly into the carrier
block.
FCB W
The screw ‘ST’ must be fully screwed home: SHS LL
If the latch is not properly locked in place, it will be ineffective and luggage may fall off, which is dangerous.
Aug-10 gtrigb3 ds

3 SPEED TRIGGER
Operation.
The lever has two operating arms to reduce the reach required
for each gear change. When changing gear, ease pressure on
the pedals. If the bicycle is stationary ease the pedals slightly
backwards.
The Brompton 3 speed trigger can be used with Sturmey
Archer and Sram 3 speed hubs that are used on the Brompton.

Position
The mounting position of the trigger on the handlebar has been
chosen for easy operation and to avoid clashing with the front fig GTR1
spokes when folded. You may of course want to choose CS
another position and this can be achieved by moving the trigger
along the
handlebar, rotating the trigger on the trigger boss TB or both, however
the resulting cable routing may not be satisfactory.
the hub gear will need to be readjusted.
the trigger may clash with the front spokes when folded. TB

Fig. GTR1 shows a typical set-up viewed from the front. The trigger should be as near as
possible to the brake lever.
Fig. GTR2 shows the method for rotating the control on the trigger boss. fig
Figs. GTR3 and GTR4 show the two most likely mounting positions for the control. GTR2
The dashed outline shows the position of the lever arms in the lowest gear. Note the position of
the lower arm relative to the handlebar.

Fitting/replacing the trigger

If you are replacing a Sturmey Archer or Sram trigger disconnect fig
the cable adjustor from the gear indicator at the rear hub and GTR3
remove the cable adjustor from the inner wire. The inner wire
can now be removed from the outer cable and the trigger. Undo the
trigger handlebar clip and remove the screw. Open the clip and
remove the control from the handlebar (avoid scratching the bar).
We strongly recommend that both the trigger inner wire and outer
cable be replaced. TIP. To ensure the correct outer cable run, use
the old cable as a guide when fitting the new outer cable, removing
the old cable as the new cable is fitted.
fig
If you are replacing a Brompton trigger, disconnect the cable at the GTR4
hub as above
To remove the inner wire from the Brompton trigger, set the trigger lever in the middle gear position and lightly push
the lever in direction 1 (fig. GTR7) to open up the cable loading window 2.
The inner wire can now be removed through the window 2 in the reverse direction to the direction 3 shown. Some
twisting of the wire will help.

fig GTR5
fig GTR6 TB
 Next undo the clip screw CS and remove the trigger, leaving the metal clip on the handlebar. Re-use the old clip when
fitting the new control unless it is damaged.

If fitting the new handlebar clip, open the clip, as shown in fig.GTR5, to allow this to be fitted to the handlebar, without
marking it. Squeeze the ends of the clip together and push the trigger boss TB onto the new clip fig.GTR6, (or else onto
the old already closed clip).

The rotational position of the trigger can now be selected as shown in

fig.GTR2.
Tighten the clip screw CS to a torque of 5Nm maximum. Note, if you wish to
change the trigger angle after securing it, the tapered trigger boss TB may have
CVS become jammed in the housing - it can be withdrawn using pliers

To fit the inner wire to the new trigger, set the trigger lever in the middle gear
position and lightly push the lever in direction 1 (fig.GTR7) to open up the
cable loading window 2.
The inner wire can now be loaded through the window 2 as shown in direction
3.

Fig. GTR8 shows the route the wire should take through the control.
TIP. Rotating the inner wire slightly while feeding the inner wire through the
control can assist the loading. If you experience trouble feeding the wire through
fig GTR7 the trigger nipple hole, set the control as shown in fig GTR7 and look for the
hole in the trigger nipple TN through the window and then visually guide the
inner wire into the trigger nipple

TN Feed the inner wire through the outer cable on the bike and push the outer
cable fully into the nose of the control. TIP. Fitting of the outer cable can be
assisted by unscrewing the cover screw CVS a couple of turns. Don’t forget to
retighten the screw afterwards.

Next, with the bicycle unfolded, ensure that the inner wire is correctly routed
around the pulley on the rear frame and loosely re-fit the cable adjustor
(figs.AR5 & AR6). Make sure that the indicator rod is screwed fully home into
the hub (and backed off not more than half a turn to obtain correct alignment
fig with the cable). After ensuring that the hub is in top gear attach the cable
GTR8 adjustor to the indicator rod, the minimum amount necessary for a robust
connection and pull the inner wire through the cable clamp on the cable adjustor
so that most of the slack is taken up. Tighten the cable clamp to secure the cable
adjustor onto the inner wire.
subtext gadj hub
Hub-Gear adjustment.

Adjustment of the gear control must be carried out with the bike fully unfolded (i.e NOT parked), and with the indicator
rod screwed fully home into the hub (and backed off not more than half a turn to align with the cable). The aim is to
make sure that the indicator rod & chain down at the the rear axle moves to the correct position in response to moving
the trigger. For this the cable has to be running well: it must be free of kinks or sharp radii, with the cable pulley rolling
freely.

While setting gears, you should ensure that the gear you select by moving the control trigger has indeed engaged in the
hub, and to this end, each time you are moving the trigger, keep the wheel spinning forwards, and pedal back and
forwards, to ensure the gear engages. It's easiest, when actually altering the setting, to have the cable slack: so select top
gear and back and forward pedal a bit first.

If you cannot obtain a satisfactory setting, then the most likely cause is either the cable not running freely, or damage to
the indicator chain itself, where it runs into the axle end. Otherwise, the fault may be with the hub internals.

SRAM 3-spd gear adjustment:.

The cable is made tighter by pushing the adjustor A further onto the grooved end C
B of the indicator chain GICH: to obtain a looser setting, the spring clip C has to D
be depressed.
You can usually get things right first time by moving the trigger into top gear, B D CPULA
pulling on the adjustor (away from the pulley housing CPULA), and then feeding
the grooved end B of the indicator chain into the adjustor until it is just not loose,
i.e. WITHOUT pulling the indicator chain out of the axle at all. The setting is A
correct when:-
fig AR5
with the trigger in top, the cable is just slack (with a Brompton Y-trigger bike unfolded
fitted, there should be up to 5mm side-to-side movement at D-D, and with a
Sram Torpedo trigger, rather less), in other words neither flopping around
too much, nor taut. If, when you try pulling the adjustor A away from the GICH
CPULA, you can see any movement of the indicator chain back into the axle
where it enters it, then the setting is too tight, and
with the trigger in low, the indicator chain (where it enters the end of the axle) should either move not at all, or
perhaps up to 1mm, when you pull the adjustor towards the CPULA (if it moves more than this, then the setting is
probably too loose: on the other hand, if, while back-pedalling and moving the trigger slowly from mid- to low-
position, you see that the indicator chain stops moving out of the end of the axle before the trigger has clicked into
low-position, then the setting is probably too tight), and
when pedalling forwards (under no load) and changing through the 3 gears, both up and down, all three gears are
positively selected.

STURMEY ARCHER 3-spd adjustment:

B
Adjustment is carried out by slackening the lock nut N, turning the barrel B to
obtain correct setting, and relocking the nut N. Ensure the indicator rod is the N
correct length for the hub-type. CPULA

3-speed. Engage top gear, then move the

control trigger to the middle position: the
step, S, towards the end of the indicator
rod, IR, should be level with the end of fig AR6
the axle, visible through the hole in the
CTN. Next, select bottom gear, then
middle, then top, and check that all three
are engaging correctly.

fig AR13
Jan-10

FRONT HUBS WITH REDUCED AXLE LENGTH.

This spare front wheel (or hub) has an axle 4mm shorter at each end than was used on bikes manufactured prior to mid-
August 2000 (length now 106mm, as opposed to 114mm formerly used), and a different "stack" has to be used where the
left hand end of the axle is fitted to the front fork. If you retain the original stack, the wheel nut will not properly engage
on the end of the axle.

If the bike has the old-style tab washer (which has a large, non-circular hole where the axle passes through), do not use it
at the LH end: instead use the special tab washer with a circular hole supplied with this spare part. If the bike
is a pre-2003 C-type (with an all-wire hook), or
anyway has the shorter axle, or
has a new-style mudguard stay (as shown), fig AF1
re-assemble using the original stack at the LH end.

subtext mgsf & hook fit (modified)

Fitting the mudguard stay to the front axle. The special tab washer
TW should be fitted at the LH end of the front axle between the loop in the
stay and the front fork (the tab, as normal, engaging in the hole in the fork WI
blade). Use only one washer between the wheel-nut and stay. [Note: on S
TW
bikes for which these notes are relevant, the hook may not be a separate
nylon moulding as shown, but an integral part of the wire form with a plastic WO
sleeve over it: the same assembly stack applies.]

Jan-10

FRONT HUBS WITH REDUCED AXLE LENGTH.

This spare front wheel (or hub) has an axle 4mm shorter at each end than was used on bikes manufactured prior to mid-
August 2000 (length now 106mm, as opposed to 114mm formerly used), and a different "stack" has to be used where the
left hand end of the axle is fitted to the front fork. If you retain the original stack, the wheel nut will not properly engage
on the end of the axle.

If the bike has the old-style tab washer (which has a large, non-circular hole where the axle passes through), do not use it
at the LH end: instead use the special tab washer with a circular hole supplied with this spare part. If the bike
is a pre-2003 C-type (with an all-wire hook), or
anyway has the shorter axle, or
has a new-style mudguard stay (as shown), fig AF1
re-assemble using the original stack at the LH end.

subtext mgsf & hook fit (modified)

Fitting the mudguard stay to the front axle. The special tab washer
TW should be fitted at the LH end of the front axle between the loop in the
stay and the front fork (the tab, as normal, engaging in the hole in the fork WI
blade). Use only one washer between the wheel-nut and stay. [Note: on S
TW
bikes for which these notes are relevant, the hook may not be a separate
nylon moulding as shown, but an integral part of the wire form with a plastic WO
sleeve over it: the same assembly stack applies.]
Jan-12 hubrbits-SA ds

STURMEY ARCHER: parts for axle and cable entry.

Notes regarding compatibility of parts.

1. If this set includes any nuts for the axle, note that these must only be used on Sturmey Archer rear axles. Their
thread is not the same as for other (non-Sturmey) rear axles, but similar enough to permit them to be fitted to the
wrong axle, for instance on the Brompton 2-spd axle (where thread engagement would be poor, and the thread would
strip). So do not use any nuts in this set with Sram 3-spd or BBL 2-spd.

2. If this set includes a 3-spd chain-tensioner nut, note that

the axle on pre-2003 Sturmey hubs (with steel-shell) is shorter than on later hubs, and calls for a short nut (length
16.9mm), whereas
later hubs (almost invariably with alloy-shell) call for a long nut (length 19.5mm):
Although the difference may seem small, it is essential that you fit the correct nut. Note also that, for Sturmey Archer, a
chain-tensioner nut should have a step at the inner end, and an inspection hole (whereas for Sram there is no step or
hole).

3. If this set includes a gear-indicator chain, once again, it’s essential that it’s right for the hub in question:
3-speed, rod diameter 4mm,
o with one mark, for pre-2003 hubs with a “wide” driver and with a steel-shell
o rod diameter 4mm, with two marks, for post-2004 hubs with a narrower driver and almost invariably with
an alloy-shell.
5-speed, rod diameter 2.5mm,
o with blue mark, for "ball-locking" hubs made after March 2000 (they are distinguished by a generous chamfer
at the LH end of the axle),
o rod diameter 2.5mm, with red mark, for earlier non-ball-locking hubs.

4. Torque-reaction tab-washers, under the wheel-nuts: if the axle-drop-out slots on the rear-frame are 8mm wide, use
sintered tab-washers (fig W1). But if the slots (post-2003) are 10mm wide, use the pressings (marked SA), fitted the
correct way round with the end marked TOP upwards (on the unfolded bike).

Securing a chain tensioner with the special nut & washer.

[If you are fitting a new 3-spd chain-tensioner nut to replace one that was broken, note that the reason for its breaking
was probably either that it was done up too tight, or else that the tab-washer was not assembled right.]

Any tab washer under the wheel nut must be seating correctly, with the axle correctly
positioned in the axle-plate-slots. On pre-2003 Sturmey bikes, make sure that tab-
washers are fitted as per fig W1: the tabs must engage in the slot, and the face TA1
must be in contact with the end of the 8mm slot SL1 in the frame.

The correct torque for the main wheel nuts is a firm 22NM, but the chain tensioner
nut, in contrast, should not be done up nearly as tight:
On a Sturmey 3 spd, don’t exceed a torque of 5NM (just more than hand-tight). A
low torque must be used because the chain tensioner nut engages on only 3 or 4
threads at the end of the axle.
On a Sturmey 5-spd, torque 8-12NM (take care with the alignment of the outer
tab washer: the guide-roller when fitted must align with the cable).

subtext gadj hub (SA only)

Hub-Gear adjustment.

Adjustment of the gear control must be carried out with the bike fully unfolded (i.e NOT parked), and with the indicator
rod screwed fully home into the hub (and backed off not more than half a turn to align with the cable). The aim is to
make sure that the indicator rod & chain down at the the rear axle moves to the correct position in response to moving
the trigger. For this the cable has to be running well: it must be free of kinks or sharp radii, with the cable pulley rolling
freely.

While setting gears, you should ensure that the gear you select by moving the control trigger has indeed engaged in the
hub, and to this end, each time you are moving the trigger, keep the wheel spinning forwards, and pedal back and
forwards, to ensure the gear engages. It's easiest, when actually altering the setting, to have the cable slack: so select top
gear and back and forward pedal a bit first.

If you cannot obtain a satisfactory setting, then the most likely cause is either the cable not running freely, or damage to
the indicator chain itself, where it runs into the axle end. Otherwise, the fault may be with the hub internals.

STURMEY ARCHER 3-spd & 5-spd adjustment:

B
Adjustment is carried out by slackening the lock nut N, turning the barrel B to
obtain correct setting, and relocking the nut N. Ensure the indicator rod is the N
correct length for the hub-type. CPULA

3-speed. Engage top gear, then

move the control trigger to the
middle position: the step, S,
towards the end of the indicator fig AR6
rod, IR, should be level with the
end of the axle, visible through
the hole in the CTN. Next,
select bottom gear, then middle,
then top, and check that all three are engaging correctly.

5-speed, fig AR15 (Note: the GRA must be aligned with the
cable/indicator-chain, fig AR12). Engage top gear, then move the
control trigger to position 2 (2nd bottom gear): the annular groove,
fig AR13 SR, coloured red or blue,
towards the end of the SR
indicator rod, should lie
level with the end of the axle. Next change down and then up through all the
gears, and check that all gears engage cleanly, fine tuning the setting if IR
needed. In practice, you may find that, with the gears functioning correctly,
the groove SR lies (when in 2nd gear) somewhere between the end of the
axle and 1.5mm out from the end of the axle (i.e. a slightly tighter setting):
but bear in mind that, when in top, the indicator chain, GICH, should be just
slack. Next, test the gear selection under load by riding the bike, again
changing down and up through all the gears.

fig AR15
Jan-12 lsd ds

LOWER STOP DISC.

The LSD assembly supplied here is a Mk 3 type: it can be used equally well as a fig LS12
replacement on a bike already with a Mk 3 LSD (fig LS2) as on a bike with a Mk 2 LSD
(fig LS12). Ensure that you retain a spring washer, a plain washer and a concave
washer in the stack under the "RBNUT". With the assembly secured in place, you will
always need to set the correct gap.

Replacing a Mk 2 lower stop.

RBNUT
The original rear brake nut, RBNUT, must be removed and replaced with the new
style RBNUT of the Mk 3 version: secure firmly, torque 10NM.
The brake caliper will almost certainly need re-centering.

Replacing a Mk 3 lower stop.

The rear brake nut, RBNUT, should be secured firmly, 10NM. If the LSD is detached, screw the M10 lock-nut onto the
back of the RBNUT, followed by the special washer and the LSD itself (in which there is a captive locknut). If you need
only to replace the nylon disc, you can usually leave the original RBNUT in place.
fig LS2
subtext lsdadj
The Lower Stop Disc, its role in the folding process: when you pick up the folded
bike, the rear wheel cannot unfold because
the lower stop disc, LSD, butts against the
"folded" seat pillar, SP. The LSD can be RBNUT
adjusted to obtain the correct gap between
itself and the SP: if the gap is too small, then LSD
the SP may foul, irritatingly, against the LSD
during folding: if the gap is too large, then the
rear wheel will drop away too far when the bike is picked up, so that the
hook retaining the front wheel slips off the chainstay tube (CHS) on the rear
frame.

Setting the Mk3 Lower Stop (fig LS1)

fig LS1
The lock-nut should be slackened off. Fold the bike completely, and spin the
LSD along the thread to give the correct gap of 1-2mm. Finally, using 2
spanners, 19 AF and 15 AF, tighten the lock-nut: do not overtighten, correct torque 8NM.
 DATA SHEET: ds-wheel ISSUE S1004

WHEELS RIMS AND SPOKES

Important information
The braking surfaces of the rim wear with use. As the rim wears, a void will appear in the braking surface. At this stage
the rim should be replaced.

Two rim tapes are avaliable:

ƒ QRIMTAPE-SW blue rim tape for single wall rims used on bikes produced before 2013

ƒ QRIMTAPE-DW yellow rimtape for double wall rims used on bikes from the start of 2013

If you are unsure of the correct fitting process please consult your Brompton dealer. Brompton cannot accept responsi-
bility for any failures due to incorrect fitting or maintenance.

Should you require more information, please see www.brompton.co.uk

Spoke and rim selection chart

Single wall rim Double wall rim
(no longer available) QRIM-28-STD QRIM-28-AGL
Spoke
Lacing

Front Standard front Radial QSPOK-148-PG-14G QSPOK-145-PG-14G RIM/HUB NOT

wheels Superlight front 2 cross QSPOK-158-DB-14G QSPOK-155-DB-14G COMPATIABLE

Shimano dynamo 1 cross QSPOK-135-PG-14G QSPOK-132-PG-14G

SON dynamo 1 cross QSPOK-137-DB-14G QSPOK-133-DB-14G
Rear 1-2 speed 13G 2 cross QSPOK-154-PG-13G QSPOK-151-PG-13G
wheels 1-2 speed DB 2 cross QSPOK-155-DB-14G QSPOK-151-DB-14G
BWR 2 cross QSPOK-149-PG-13G RIM/HUB NOT QSPOK-146-SB-13G
BSR 2 cross QSPOK-149-PG-13G COMPATIABLE QSPOK-146-SB-13G
SRAM 2 cross QSPOK-151-PG-13G QSPOK-148-PG-13G

Where a one or two cross pattern is used it is important not to

‘interlace’ the spokes. Fig. 1

The outside spoke (grey, fig. 1) should cross over the top of the
inside spoke.

Interlacing the spokes will put undue stress on the spokes and
cause premature spoke failure.