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ICTTE 2020 IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Materials Science and Engineering 1031 (2021) 012030 doi:10.1088/1757-899X/1031/1/012030

Consumption of Electric Energy in the Production of Cotton

Textiles and Garments

Radostina A Angelova1, 4, Rositsa Velichkova2, 4, Daniela Sofronova1, Ivaylo

Ganev3, Peter Stankov4
1
Technical University of Sofia, Department of Textiles, 8 Kl. Ochridsky Blvd., 1000
Sofia, Bulgaria
2
Technical University of Sofia, Department of Hydroareodynamics and Hydraulic
Machines, 8 Kl. Ochridsky Blvd., 1000 Sofia, Bulgaria
3
College of Energy and Electronics (CEE), Department of Energy and Mechanical
Engineering, 8 Kl. Ochridsky Blvd., 1000 Sofia, Bulgaria
4
Technical University of Sofia, Centre for Research and Design in Human Comfort,
Energy and Environment (CERDECEN), 8 Kl. Ochridsky Blvd., 1000 Sofia, Bulgaria

e-mail: joy_angels@abv.bg, radost@tu-sofia.bg

Abstract. The production of cotton textiles and garments is of substantial importance for modern
society in terms of its economic effect: trade, investment, employment and earnings all over the
world. The sector is characterized by substantial demand for electrical energy, alongside with
other types of energy resources. The paper discusses the current situation of the production of
cotton textiles and garments (import/export), together with the different types of energy,
consumed by the textile industry. An in-depth analysis of the energy profile of the manufacturing
processes from fibres to garments is performed. The need for a paradigm shift from linear to a
circular economy in the field of textiles and clothing production is also discussed.

1. Introduction
Cotton is grown for its fibres. Cotton seeds, used for the production of cotton oil, are considered as a
byproduct of the cotton processing, which aims to convert the cotton fibres into textiles and garments.
The production process from fibres to apparel is quite long. The cotton fibres are spun into yarns in the
spinning mills. The yarns are then converted into fabrics in the weaving or knitting plants. Finally, the
fabrics are processed into garments or other products (e.g. interior textiles, automotive textiles).
Though the global cotton production in 2018-2019 (data from 1 August 2018 to 31 July 2019) fell
by 3%, cotton consumption worldwide increased by 2% [1]. The trends show, however, that the world
consumption of cotton textiles and garments would increase slower than the increment of the Earth
population as the population rise is typical for regions with lower consumption of cotton items per capita.
According to [2], 93% of the energy used in the spinning mills, 85% in the weaving mills and 65%
in the clothing companies, is electrical energy. The cost of the energy, involved in the final price of the
items, consists of 5-8% of the total price [3], but for yarns could be even 10% [2].
The aim of the paper is to investigate the consumption of electric energy in the production of cotton
garments from fibres to ready-to-use clothing or textile items. The paper concentrates on woven textiles
as the production line is more prolonged, compared to knitted textiles. An in-depth analysis of the energy

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ICTTE 2020 IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Materials Science and Engineering 1031 (2021) 012030 doi:10.1088/1757-899X/1031/1/012030

profile of the manufacturing processes from fibres to garments is performed. The need for a paradigm
shift from linear to a circular economy in the field of textiles and clothing production is also discussed.

Figure 1. The leading textile exporters in the world for 2018 (data from Statista).

Figure 2. The leading textile importers in the world for 2018 (data from Statista).

2. Overview of the Textile Industry

The textile industry is traditionally considered as a labour-intensive industry that demands abundant
work-force supply. It spends large amounts of energy, water, and chemicals, which influences the
environment negatively [4]. The environmental footprint of cotton, the second biggest textile material
after polyester, is significant [5], as the growing of cotton needs a lot of water, land, pesticides, and
fertilizers [6]. The textiles production leads to more than 1.2 billion tons of CO2 emissions per year [7].
According to data from [8], 185 000 companies in Europe have worked in the textile and clothing
industry, with 1.7 million employments and a turnover of €166 billion. The sector accounts for a 3%
share of value-added and a 6% share of employment in total manufacturing in Europe [9].
The EU textile and apparel sector represent 23.5% of the total export in the industry, occupying the
second place after China (37.6%) – Fig. 1 (data from [10]). The statistical information does not take into
account the internal trade between the members of the EU. At the same time the European Union is the

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ICTTE 2020 IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Materials Science and Engineering 1031 (2021) 012030 doi:10.1088/1757-899X/1031/1/012030

biggest importer of textiles and apparel (23.1%), followed by the United States (9.1%) – Fig. 2 (data
from [11]).The basic idea of the development of the e-textile for non-invasive control of the body
movement of bedridden patients is to keep the model as simple as possible. Thus, it would be possible
to avoid complicated electronics and wire, as well as to decrease the price.

3. Energy Profile of the Manufacturing Processes from Fibres to Garments

Figure 3 represents the energy profile of the textile and leather industries of the EU (28) for 2017 [12].
The electricity is in second place with 1706 ktoe, after the natural gas with 2033.4 ktoe.

Figure 3. Type of energy, consumed by the textile and leather industries in 2017 (EU 28).

The manufacturing process from cotton fibres to garments involves several stages, and each of them
has its energy demand and consumption characteristics. The first stage is related to cotton production,
the separation of the cotton fibres from the seeds by using ginning machinery and the formation of cotton
bales, which are transported to the spinning plants. The second stage is the spinning: the formation of
yarns from the staple cotton fibres. The third one is either weaving or knitting. Our analysis concentrates
on the weaving process, which is usually more complicated than the knitting: the weaving requires
preliminary preparation of the warp sets of yarns (as warp knitting). After the formation of the grey
fabric, the fourth stage of fabric’s finishing appears. This stage could involve several processes and
machines, depending on the type of the fabric and its characteristics, as well as its further application.
The last, fifth stage, includes all manufacturing processes that are related to the sewing of apparel or
other textile products, used by people or other technologies (transportation, construction, and others).

3.1. Spinning
Figure 4 shows the production stages during the conversion of the raw material (cotton fibres, pressed
in bales) into yarns. The cotton spinning involves a line for opening, cleaning and blending of the fibres,
carding machines, drawing frames, roving machines, ring spinning frames and winding machines. Some
variations of the technologies could appear (combing machines to be added, the ring-spinning frames to
be replaced by rotor spinning machines, etc.) All production stages consume electric energy.
The amount of the required energy varies, depending on the spinning system (carded or combed),
the properties of the yarns (linear density, twist), the type of the spinning machines, etc. The data of [13]
show that 72% of the energy costs in a spinning mill are due to the work of the spinning machinery,
55.5% of which is the share of the ring spinning frames. The investigation in [14] concludes that 78.4%
of the total energy in a rotor spinning mill is consumed by the spinning machinery, 75.4% of which is
due to the work of the rotor spinning machines.

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ICTTE 2020 IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Materials Science and Engineering 1031 (2021) 012030 doi:10.1088/1757-899X/1031/1/012030

Another important consumer of the electric energy in the spinning stage is the heating, ventilation
and air conditioning (HVAC) systems. They have to assure controlled climatic conditions from the blow
room to the spinning hall: temperature of 22-25 oC and relative humidity of 65%. The share of the
electricity for HVAC systems reaches 16% of the total energy consumption in the spinning mill [13].

3.2. Weaving
Figure 5 summarizes the production stages during weaving. The first two stages, warping and sizing,
are related to the preparation of the warp set of yarns. Both stages use electric energy. Sizing is a wet
process and requires steam, which is produced in the weaving mill by using electric energy, gas or oil.
Weaving mills are also fully air-conditioned. The proper maintenance of the climatic conditions is
particularly important for the weaving rooms: the cotton lint is easily flammable when it builds up static
electricity and sticks to the metal parts of the weaving machines.

Figure 4. Production stages in the spinning mill and the required energy supply.

Figure 5. Production stages in the weaving mill and the required energy supply.

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ICTTE 2020 IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Materials Science and Engineering 1031 (2021) 012030 doi:10.1088/1757-899X/1031/1/012030

3.3. Finishing
Finishing consists of several stages (Fig. 6), necessary to convert the grey fabric into a final product
with all characteristics, considered in the design stage (colour, print, hand, drape). Finishing processes
are mainly wet processes, which require drying between them.
All wet and drying processes in the finishing department, together with the rewinding machines and
quality control devices require electrical energy for driving the mechanical parts of the machines. At the
same time, the washing of the grey fabrics, bleaching, dyeing, drying, post-treatment and fixation require
a significant amount of hot air, hot water and steam. Therefore the consumption of electric energy in the
finishing stage of the cotton fabrics is lower (53%), compared to the other production stages [8].

3.4. Clothing manufacturing

Clothing manufacturing involves many machines that require electric energy: Figure 7 recapitulates the
main operation in a clothing production plant.

Figure 6. Production stages during finishing of the grey fabrics and the required energy supply.

Figure 7. Production stages in the weaving mill and the required energy supply.

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ICTTE 2020 IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Materials Science and Engineering 1031 (2021) 012030 doi:10.1088/1757-899X/1031/1/012030

The ironing process is the only one that would require steam (mainly). However, the consumption of
electric energy is not as high as in the spinning and weaving mills. One of the reasons is that the energy
used by the sewing machines is low: it was found that the consumption of electric energy in the clothing
production stage is 0.065-0.195 kWh/kg, while the consumption of electric energy in the spinning stage
is 3.24-3.47 kWh/kg [2]. It has to be commented here that the levels of electric energy consumption and
total energy consumption in the clothing manufacturing could vary significantly, depending on the
design of the garment and the production quantity.

4. The Circular Economy as a Solution for Energy Efficiency

The production of textiles and clothing is one of the most harmful to the environment industries [15],
and the energy demand is just one among several other environmental issues. The linear economy model,
determined as “take-make-use-dispose”, cannot be longer valid. Instead, the transition towards a circular
economy model gains more and more attention and followers.
The circular economy is defined as a regenerative and restorative industrial system that uses and re-
uses the natural capital as efficiently as possible, finding value in the products’ life cycles [16]. It calls
for a new design of both the production and consumption of textiles and garments. The principles that
the circular economy uses are [17]:
• Zero-waste design
• Sustainable design
• Extension of the product life
• Repair and remanufacturing
• Resource recovery.
In the particular case of the textile and clothing manufacturing and use, these principles have the
following practical meanings:
• Gradual removal of non-environmental friendly substances and separation of microfiber release
• Longer use of textiles and garments
• Effective recycling
• Re-use of recycled fibres as raw material.
The new vision of the textiles and clothing production would lead to better outcomes for the
economy, environment and society.

5. Conclusions
The production of cotton textiles and garments is of substantial importance for modern society. The
sector is characterized by substantial demand for electrical energy in all production stages: spinning,
weaving/knitting, finishing and clothing production. The in-depth analysis of the energy profile of the
manufacturing processes from fibres to garments showed that the spinning and weaving mills are the
primary users of electric energy. A paradigm shift from linear to a circular economy in the field is needed
so as to decrease the pressure over the energy resources and the environment.

Acknowledgements
This study is part of the project № BG05M2OP001-1.001-0008 “National Centre of Mechatronics and
Clean Technologies”, Lab/Section L6S3, funded by the European Regional Development Fund.

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ICTTE 2020 IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Materials Science and Engineering 1031 (2021) 012030 doi:10.1088/1757-899X/1031/1/012030

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