Perfect for all occasions, this Satchel Handbag and Commuter Tote are as stylish as they are practical. With a sleek and classic Took, this bag features handles, a removable shoulder strap, two exterior pockets and one zippered pocket. Instructions are included for vinyl and woven fabrics, as well as pattern pieces for two bag sizes. Satchel Handbag (shown) Commuter Tote: ( ] | i) ) 48" fall'5*doop | 78" wide 12° tall- 7" coop HANDBAG & TOTE Cee eRe When printing, do not select “Fit to Printable Area” or enlarge/shrink in any way. Always print at “Actual Size” or 100%. ‘wwew.swwoonpatterns.com + Feel free to sell your bags made with this patter, Copyright 2016 Swoon Sewing PatternsInstructions & Pattern Materials Needed for Handbag Satchel 1/8 yard 44” wide quiting weight exterior fabric + 2/8 yard 44” wide quilting weight lining fabric + 2/8 yard contrasting fabric, woven or vinyl + 2/8 yard foam interfacing (Paton Fixeam 77) 1/4 yard fusible heavy stabilizer (Poton Foto 71F) + 8 yards fusible woven interfacing (Palon Shapeax S07) + 2/8 yard fusible web (Pace Wendorncer 80s) (oetcna) “Two 1" swivel clips “Two 3/4" D-rings + Four 1" rectangle rings +16" or longer all-purpose zipper main compartment) +7" all-purpose zipper rocked + Fabric glue @ascon Fabia) * Coordinating thread GOC® Exterior Contrasting Lining Wrong Side Where to stitch Materials Needed for Commuter Tote: +172 yard 44" wide auiting weight exterior fabric “1 yard 44” wide quiking weight lining fabric + 8/4 yard contrasting fabric, woven or vinyl +1 1/4 yards foam interfacing (Paton Fexeam E77) +318 yard fusible heavy stab lzer Poon Potex79F) +4 yards fusible waven interfacing (Paton Snape F101) 1111/4 yards fusible web (Pace Wenderuncer 808) (oetcna) + Four 1" rectangle rings +20" or longer all-purpose zipper fnain compartment +9" all-purpose zipper (eccten + Fabric glue f2sicon Fabritac + Coordinating thread Tips for using vinyl as your contrasting fabric: ‘* You'll want to choose a vinyl that isn’t very thin, such as some used in clothing. It should be noticeably heavier than quilting weight cotton but the heavier iti, the harder it wll be to work with. Use your best judgment when choosing a vinyl. ‘* Vinyl is a bit different to sew than woven fabric. Use a longer stitch length and sharp needle, as the stitching perforates the vinyl and can weaken it at the seams. ‘* For top stitching, you'll need a non-stick (teflon) foot, roller foot, or walking foot, Back stitch minimally, being careful to stay on the same line of stitching. * You cannot press vinyl from the right side, but you can usually press it from the wrong side at a lower heat setting. If you have a pressing cloth, use it. Also, test a small scrap to see how it handles the heat. Alternatively, you can often use fabric glue to secure instead of pressing. * Lastly, you'll want to avoid pinning vinyl since pins will leave permanent holes. Try fabric olips or fabric. glue instead. 1) PREPPING Print the pattern at “Actual size" or “100% scale”. For the Handbag Satchel, print pages 14-22. For the Commuter Tote, print pages 23-34. Cut out all paper pattern pieces along the solid black lines. Tape all applicable pieces together, butting the lines together at the matching letters. (On the wrong side of the fabric, trace and cut the pieces from the exterior fabric, contrasting fabric, and lining fabric, as instructed on each pattern piece. The edges marked “FOLD" should run along the straight grain of the fabric. Your contrasting fabric will be either woven or vinyl; use only the appropriate Handle Connector pattern piece(s). Repeat to cut the woven interfacing, foam interfacing and fusible web (if applicable).For the HANDBAG SATCHEL, also measure and cut: jwise xreion Bottom Support - 11” x 4.5”, Cut 1 Stabilizer Zipper Tab * 1.5" x 4", Cut 1 Lining Pocket Panel - 9” x 7”, Cut 2 Lining, Cut 2 Woven Interfacing Handles - 18” x 4", Cut 2 Contrasting, Cut 2 Woven Interfacing rene #using vn) Shoulder Strap - 42” x 4”, Cut 1 Contrasting, Cut 1 Woven Interfacing none nosing vind Strap Connector « 1.5” x 5”, Cut 1 Contrasting, Cut 1 Woven Interfacing none rusin wnyo For the COMMUTER TOTE, also measure and cut: pmo xteion) Bottom Support - 15” x 6.25”, Cut 1 Stabilizer Zipper Tab * 1.5” x 4”, Cut 1 Lining Pocket Panel - 11” x 9", Cut 2 Lining, Cut 2 Woven Interfacing Handles - 26” x 4”, Cut 2 Contrasting, Cut 2 Woven Interfacing rene vusing vn Center the Bottom Support stabilizer onto the wrong side of the contrasting Bottom Panel, fusible side down, and fuse in place. It should be 1/2” from all edges. Fuse woven interfacing to the wrong side of all exterior panels, contrasting panels, and lining panels, except for the Zipper Tab and any vinyl panels. Fuse woven interfacing to the wrong side of the contrasting Bottom Panel, over the stabilizer, even if vinyl With a wide zigzag stitch, sew along the top edge of both Main Panel Foam pieces. This will compress the edge of the foam along the zipper. Repeat to sew along the top edge of both Side Panel Foam pieces. Sie Paral Foam If using fusible web, fuse the web to the four foam interfacing pieces and remove the backing. Place fusible side down onto the wrong side of both exterior Main Panels and both contrasting Side Panels, matching the bottom and side edges, and fuse in place. Then, skip the next paragraph. Pin Main Panel Foam to the wrong side of an exterior Main Panel, matching the bottom and side edges. Machine baste the foam in place along the matched bottom and side edges only at 1/4” seam allowance. Repeat to baste foam interfacing to the remaining exterior Main Panel and both contrasting Side Panels. Pin along the top edges or use a small amount of fabric glue to glue baste in place.2A) WOVEN HANDLE CONNECTORS (6kip to 2B if using vinyl) Lay a Handle Connector stabilizer piece onto the wrong side of a woven Handle Connector, fusible side up, and pin in place. The top straight edges should match and the rest should be centered from the raw edges. Cut triangle notches in the bottom curve every 1/2” oF So, about halfway to the stabilizer. Clip into the top curve every 1/2", about halfway to the stabilizer. Start at the top and fold the top raw edge over onto the stabilizer, and using the very tip of your iron, fuse (or glue baste) in place. Continue until the entire curve is fused. Repeat to fold and fuse the bottom raw edge onto the stabilizer. fe a rectangle ring onto one end of the Handle Connector, and fold over 3/4” to the wrong side (1” for Commuter Tote). Pin or glue baste the end in place. Repeat to secure another rectangle ring onto the other end of the same Handle Connector. Repeat to assemble the second Handle Connector. 2B) VINYL HANDLE CONNECTORS (skip to 2C if using woven) Fold the top wings of a Handle Connector towards the wrong side so that the raw edges butt together in the center. Use a small amount of fabric glue or double sided tape to secure, then clip with fabric clips until set. Repeat to fold and glue baste the wings at the other end of the same Connector.Repeat to fold and glue baste the wings for the remaining Handle Connector. Remove the clips and slide a 1” rectangle onto the top end of a Handle Connector and fold the top end under 3/4" towards the wrong side (fold under 1” for Commuter Tote). Glue the end in place and clip until the glue sets or sew across the Connector, as closely to the hardware as you can, to secure the hardware in place. 2C) SEW HANDLE CONNECTORS TO MAIN PANELS Mark a horizontal line on the right side of an exterior Main Panel that is 1.5” down from the top straight edge. Measure 1” in from each side edge and mark along the horizontal line. Pin or glue baste a Handle Connector, wrong side down against the right side of the exterior Main Panel so that the top folds of the Connector are 1.5” down (at the horizontal line) and centered to be 1” from each side edge. Top stitch the Connector in place, along all edges and back stitching along the rectangle rings for strength. For the Commuter Tote, your horizontal marked line should be 1.5" down from the top straight edge, with two ‘marks that are 1.5” from each side edge. See the Handle Connector Placement on the Main Panel pattern piece. (stor “ena Repeat to sew the remaining Handle Connector to the other exterior Main Panel.3) STRAP CONNECTORS (skip to 4 if making Commuter Tote) ‘On the wrong side of the Strap Connector panel, mark a center line that is 3/4” in from, and Parallel to, each long edge. Fold each long edge to the center line, so the long edges are butting together and press or glue baste in place. ————EE — Now, fold in half the opposite way, matching the short ends and cut in half at the fold. You should have two Strap Connectors that are 3/4” wide and 2.5” long. Fold both short ends of a Strap Connector to the center and press. The ends should be butting together on the wrong side. Slide a short ends D-ring into one of the folds and pin in place. butting together ‘on wrong side Use the Side Panel paper pattern piece or measure to mark the placement of the Strap Connector on the right side of each contrasting Side Panel. The fold at the top of the Connector should be 1.25" down from the top V-point and centered, Pin or glue baste the Strap Connector in place with the D-ring at the top. Using a zipper foot, top stitch along each edge, and across the Connector, as closely to the hardware as you can. Repeat to sew the remaining Strap Connector to the other contrasting Side Panel.4) SIDE POCKETS Pin a contrasting Side Pocket panel to a lining Side Pocket panel, right sides together and matching all raw edges. Sew along the top curved edge only at 1/4” seam allowance. Flip wrong sides together and press the pocket well. Pin all raw edges together. Top stitch along the top seam, about 1/4” from the finished edge. Pivot and continue sewing to machine baste ‘the raw edges together along the “U" of the pocket. Pin a Side Pocket, lining side down, onto the right side of a contrasting Side Panel, matching all raw edges. The Side Pocket is wider at the top, so it will bow out and create a 3D shape. Machine baste the pocket in place along the matched edges only, about 1/4” from the edge. Repeat to assemble and baste the remaining Side Pocket to the other contrasting Side Panel 5) ZIPPERED POCKET Fold a lining Main Panel in half, wrong sides together and matching the two side edges, and press to make a vertical center crease. On the wrong side of the panel, mark a horizontal 7” x 1/2” box (9” x 1/2” for Commuter Tote) that is 2.5" down from the top straight edge and extends past the center crease by 3.5” on both sides (4.5” for Commuter Tote).Now on the RIGHT side of the lining Main Panel, pin fan ® nn na the top long edge of a Pocket Panel over the rectangle you just drew, right side down (the Main Panel and Pocket Panel will be right sides together). The edges of the Pocket Panel should go past the rectangle box by about 1” on the top, right, and left sides. We can't see the marked box, but we do know it's 2.5" down from the top edge, so the top edge of the Pocket Panel should be pinned 1.5” down from the top edge and centered. esac se ees Flip over so you are looking at the wrong side of the lining Main Panel, and sew right over the marked rectangle with a short stitch length. Now, inside the stitched rectangle, mark the (black solid) lines as shown below (a center line, stopping 1/2” from the ends, then to the corners), then cut along the lines. Be careful not to clip the stitching. Pull the Pocket Panel through the opening you just cut and press all flat against the wrong side of the lining Main Panel. Pin the 7” zipper (9” for Commuter Tote) on the wrong side, face down and centered over the hole. Make sure the zipper pull is in the opening. Top stitch the entire way around the rectangle to attach, about 1/8” from the edge of the rectangle. (Tip: Try using fabric glue or scotch tape along the edges of the zipper in place of the pins to attach to Main Panel before sewing.) peewwnn ~~~ ~~ ~~ SS elPin the remaining Pocket Panel to the Pocket Panel sewn to the zipper, right sides together and matching all raw edges. With the lining Main Panel right side up, sew along the top edge and both side edges of the Pocket Panels at 1/2” seam allowance to enclose and create the “pocket”, folding the Main Panel out of the way as you go so you don’t sew through it. Leave the bottom edge unsewn for now, this is how you will turn the bag right side out later. Trim seam allowance down to about 1/4", only along the stitching 6) ASSEMBLY Pin the contrasting Bottom Panel to an exterior Main Panel, right sides together and matching a long edge of the Bottom Panel to the bottom edge of the Main Panel. Sew along the matched edge only at 1/2” seam allowance. Press the seam allowance toward the Bottom Panel. Flip right side up and top stitch along the seam, through the Bottom Panel and seam allowance. Repeat to sew the remaining exterior Main Panel to the other long edge of the same Bottom Panel, then top stitch Repeat to sew the lining Main Panels to the lining Bottom Panel at 5/8” seam allowance.Fold the exterior body in half, matching the two short “top” edges, to find the center along both short ends of the Bottom Panel. Mark on the wrong side, within the seam allowance. Fold a contrasting Side Panel in half, right sides together and matching raw edges, and mark the bottom center on the wrong side within the seam allowance. Repeat to mark the remaining contrasting Side Panel. (On the right side of both contrasting Side Panels, use the Side Panel paper pattern piece to mark the Zipper Placement on both sides. There should be two small marks on each, right along the edge and about 1/2” from the center of the “V" on both sides. All marks shown below. Pin a contrasting Side Panel to the exterior Body, right sides together and matching the bottom center of the Side Panel to one of the center marks on the Body. Pin first, just once, at the center mark.Pin the top corner of the Side Panel to the top comer of the exterior Body, right sides together and matching the side edges together. Pin the other top corner of the Side Panel to the other end of the exterior Body. Starting at the top, pin down the edge about every 1” until you reach the bottom pin, then repeat to pin down the other side. With the Side Panel up, sew along the matched edges only (the “U" of the Side Panel), at 1/2" seam allowance. Repeat to attach the remaining contrasting Side Panel to the other long raw edge of the exterior Body. Trim all ‘seam allowances down to about 1/8”. Repeat to sew the lining Side Panels to the lining Body. Start at a 1/2” seam allowance at the top and increase to a §/8” seam allowance along the bottom. 7) MAIN ZIPPER Open the main zipper completely. We are going to be pinning one edge of the zipper, face down, along the top edge of the bag exterior (right side). Fold the beginning of the zipper tape at a 90 degree angle over, onto itself and off the top edge of the fabric. Pin so the folded end is right at the Zipper Placement mark on a Side Panel Continue pinning the zipper in place, matching the edge of the zipper tape to the top raw edge of the bag. When you are 1 away from the Zipper Placement mark on the other Side Panel, start tapering the zipper downward (away from the raw edge), so that it will be completely out of the 1/4” seam at exactly the Zipper Placement mark. 10Using a zipper foot, start at the V-point of the Side Panel at the beginning of the zipper and sew along the top edge of the bag with zipper at 1/4” seam allowance. If your zipper is wider than 1”, sew at 3/8" seam allowance. Only sew until you reach the V-point of the other Side Panel. Back stitch at start and stop. Repeat to pin and sew the other edge of the zipper to the other side of the bag. Try closing and opening the zipper to make sure everything matches up. ‘Open the lining pocket zipper completely. With the lining wrong side out, and the exterior right side out, place the exterior inside the lining. Match up the raw edges and pin at each of the four side seams. Pull the edge of the lining slightly above the exterior to reduce bagginess. Continue pinning between the side seams until the entire top edge is pinned together, every 1” or so. Make sure the tail end of the zipper is tucked down between the layers. Sewing from inside the bag (wrong side of exterior against presser foot), sew right over the existing 1/4” seam along the entire top edge of the bag. Back stitch at start and stop. Clip into the seam allowance at the V-point of both Side Panels, almost up to the stitching. Turn the bag right side out through the bottom of the lining pocket. Tuck the lining down into the exterior and press the top seam well. Turn the bag lining side out, with the exterior tucked down inside the lining. Starting at a V-point, top stitch along the entire top edge of the bag, about 1/8” from the seam. You will be sewing from inside the bag, with the exterior against the presser foot. Keep the tall end of the zipper tucked out of the way so you don't sew through it. Pull the lining pocket out of the zipper. Tuck the raw edges along bottom inside the opening 1/2” and press. Pin along the edge to close the opening. Top stitch along the very edge to close the Pocket, then tuck back inside the zipper. 8) ZIPPER TAB Fold the Zipper Tab in half, wrong sides together and matching the two short ends together, and press. Open, then fold each short end to the center crease, so they're butting together and press again. ohFold each long edge to the center and press. Then, fold in half again, matching the short ends. The Zipper Tab should be 3/4” wide and 1” long. Slide the zipper pull so that it's inside the bag. Trim the end of the zipper so that it extends past the bag by about 2”. For the last inch of the zipper, fold the zipper tape underneath the zipper and glue or machine baste 1 i in place so that the end of the zipper, including zipper RRR LASRTIETEIEG | 1 tape is about 3/4” wide or less. Slide the end of the po anal zipper into the Zipper Tab and into the folds inside. Pin or glue baste in place. Top stitch along each edge of the Zipper Tab to secure. Close the zipper and tuck the end of the zipper with Zipper Tab down inside the bag. 9) HANDLES & SHOULDER STRAP On the wrong side of a Handle panel, mark a center line that is 2” in from, and parallel to, each long edge. Then, fold each long edge to the center line and press, glue baste or use double-sided tape to hold in place. Fold in half one more time and press (or glue baste). The long raw edges should be hidden inside and the Handles panel should be 1” wide. Top stitch along each long edge, about 1/8" from the edge. Repeat to fold and top stitch the remaining Handle. Fold both ends of a Handle under 1/2", then again 3/4” and press (skip for viny)). Pull one end of the Handle through a rectangle ring on the bag. Slide the rectangle ring into the 3/4” fold of the Handle (for vinyl, just fold over 1”). Sew across the Handle, along the fold to attach the end of the Handle to the ring. Repeat to sew the other end of the same Handle to the rectangle ring on the same side of the bag. Repeat to sew the remaining Handle to the rectangle rings on the other side of the bag. Optional: Repeat to fold and top stitch the Shoulder Strap, then sew the ends to two swivel clips. Your Annette Handbag Satchel or Commuter Tote is complete! 12SATCHEL HANDBAG Main Panel Cut 2 Exterior Cut 2 Lining Cut 4 Woven Interfacing annette2” This is a test square to ensure the pattern printed at the correct size.aqyauue SATCHEL HANDBAG Handle Connectors (woven only) Cut 2 Stabilizer Buloepoqu UOROM p IND Bun 21nd Buysequog Z IND loueg apis pvaanvH TaHOWs qi04 annettea1o4 aqyauue 99X24 92189 Bujoep9qu uenom Z IND Sulu Lang Bunsenuog | no Joueg woyog VEGNYH 13HOLWSannette ‘SATCHEL HANDBAG Handle Connectors (woven only) Cut 2 Contrastingannette , ' I ' t t 1 1 ' ! i ' ' H SATCHEL HANDBAG Handle Connectors (vinyl only) Cut 2 Contrastingfo SATCHEL HANDBAG Side Pocket Cut 2 Contrasting Cut 2 Lining Cut 4 Woven Interfacing Pitusng vivo FOLD annette‘SATCHEL HANDBAG Main Panel Foam Cut 2 Foam Interfacing Cut 2 Fusible Web annettemoire) GaN BIaISN Z 31ND Bujoepequ wieo4 Z IND weo, [aued apis DYEQNYH 13HOLWSCOMMUTER TOTE Main Panel Cut 2 Exterior Cut 2 Lining Cut 4 Woven Interfacing annetteCOMMUTER TOTE Side Panel Cut 2 Contrasting Cut 2 Lining Cut 4 Woven Interfacing itusing ving FOLDannette | ' 1 ' t Il Hl 1 i ' ! 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