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The 7th and 8th of this month will ever remain in our memories
two of the most terrible of the whole journey. Just because we had in
them to meet the last dangers of our eventful journey down the
Niger, at least of those dangers for which Nature alone was
responsible, the anxiety they caused seemed almost unbearable.
At first the river was easily navigable enough, but we soon came
to the first rapid. This we crossed successfully, however, the Davoust
in one great rush, the Aube after being compelled to anchor just
above it, till Digui returned for her with a reinforcement of rowers.
We anchored at Malali for breakfast, and Digui went to
reconnoitre the rapid below that village. We were just finishing our
meal when some messengers arrived from the chief of Bussa. Yet
again we are to hear from him!
The messengers explained that although a nominal ruler, the chief
had really less influence than any one in his village. He had done his
very utmost to overcome the indifference of those about him to our
wishes, but it had all been in vain. “We were relations!” he added,
and he did not wish us to go away angry with him. To this I replied
that one of our men had been molested and robbed, and I would not
add a syllable to anything which was said until the objects stolen
from him had been restored and the guilty men punished. The
messengers swore that the chief knew nothing about the outrage,
and, after all, this may have been true, for this poor down-trodden
demi-god of a chief had none but venal courtiers about him, and
unless we interfere to save it, Bussa is a prey marked down for the
big teeth of perfidious Albion.
Digui returned wet through; he had tried to shoot the rapid, but the
canoe was swamped, and he had only just time to save himself by
running her into the bank. In fact, it was quite impossible to
reconnoitre here as we had hitherto done. We had to make
examining the river from the banks do. Such was the violence of the
current, so narrow were the passes and so big the waves, that
canoes could only pass the rapids by shooting through little channels
quite impracticable to our barges.
A dreary prospect truly! But one way was open to us, and not
even the natives knew anything about it. We walked along the bank,
and an eager discussion took place at each eddy we came to. Were
there rocks beneath them or were they merely whirlpools? At last,
thanks be to God, we came to the end of them.
We managed, after all, to pass them all in our boats, and they
were indeed enough to terrify any one; but they were really more
alarming than dangerous, for there was plenty of water above most
of the rocks. In one pass, some 54 yards wide, shut in between two
large reefs, a good half of the waters of the Niger flings itself over
with a tremendous roar.
The immense velocity of the current is such that the water dashes
up the banks like the waves of the sea, and there is one paradoxical
thing about it: the level is at least three feet higher near the banks
than in midstream, where a kind of trough is formed.
It is along this trough that we have to steer, and it is really very
dreadful to see the large masses of water piled up on either side,
looking as if they were ready to rush together and engulf us between
them.
Digui made a very sensible speech to his crew.
“Attention,” he cried, “no one is to look out of the boat; every one
must put out all his strength; but I’ll break the head of the first man
who looks beyond the deck.”
Then ensued thirty seconds of mortal agony; there was a kind of
flash like lightning, and the current had seized the barge in its grip,
hugging it tightly. The vessel seemed about to break beneath the
masses of water flung back from the banks to the centre of the
stream, but it was over; we had got safely through the pass.
I estimate the speed of the current at from twelve to fourteen
miles, and if the boat had struck on an unnoticed rock as it rushed
along, we knew that it must have been split open from stem to stern.
On the right of the pass is a group of little islands where the
current is broken up, and its strength lessened. It is amongst them
that canoes are able to get through, turning the quieter water to
account; but, as I said before, the passes there were too narrow for
our boats.
We were soon flung on to a second rapid, less majestic and
terrible in appearance, but perhaps more dangerous than the first. To
pass it safely, we had to steer to the left to begin with, and then bear
to the right as much as possible to avoid the waves driven back in
that direction by a great rock over which the water fell like a huge
moustache; only the utmost care and skill saved the boats from
being flung upon a bank of sharp flints near the left bank. In fact, it
was an even more delicate manœuvre to achieve than to describe!
THE RAPIDS BELOW BUSSA.
Beyond this rapid the water was boiling and seething as in some
huge caldron; whirlpools and waves met and clashed into each
other, and even between the rapids, in comparatively calm water,
there was such a swell on that the boats were lifted high up and
rolled about as if at sea.
We anchored off Garafiri, whilst above and below us roared the
rapids.
The next day, the 8th, we started early and passed without
difficulty the Kandji rapid, which is comparatively easy. We
breakfasted at Konotasi; at least, that is the way the natives seem to
me to pronounce the name marked Kpatachi on maps.
Digui again went to reconnoitre, and came back with the gloomy
face of old difficult days. The trading canoes which had left Bussa
during our stay there had not yet gone, but were about to discharge
their cargoes. They would take a little channel on the right, but it was
too narrow for us. Moreover, there was not yet water enough even
for native boats, and they would have to wait for an inundation. We
must again follow the main stream, and we went along the banks to
look for the pass.
Malali was nothing to what we had now to encounter, for the only
pass was by an opening not as big as that of the sluice of a canal.
“Can we pass, Digui?” we asked.—“Yes, perhaps,” he replied, “if it
is the will of Allah!”
With this assurance we had to be content, and I gave the order
“Forward!”
When my old guide saw us steering towards the left to take the
course impracticable even to native canoes he was terrified. “Laol
alla! Laol alla!” he cried, “there is no pass there!” I put my hand over
his mouth to make him hold his tongue, and flinging himself upon the
deck he hid his head in his cloak.
I got my camera ready for taking a photograph, but Digui said to
me. “It is not worth while!”—“Why?” I asked.—“Because you will not
be able to look. You will be afraid!”
Yet Digui had seen me look at places still less attractive than this
pass, which was no pass.
I proved him wrong to some extent, for I did succeed in getting
two photographs of the banks we were passing. I don’t deny,
however, that I felt a slight shudder pass over me, and I hope I am
not more of a coward than any one else would have been under the
circumstances.
AMONG THE RAPIDS.
RABBA.
The voyage began to tell very much on our men now. It was not
only that they were very tired, but the rain was continuous all night,
and sometimes also in the day, so that we had to put up the tents on