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Florence, Then and Now

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Tourists roll through the piazza near the Basilica di Santa


Croce. The basilica plays an early part in “A Room With a
View.” Chris Warde-Jones for The New York Times

By Adam Begley
Nov. 28, 2008

HERE'S what you do first in Florence:


Complain about the tourists. It's a time-
honored tradition and there's no avoiding it —
or them, as they squeeze down the narrow
streets. They choke the majestic Piazza
Signoria; they overwhelm the Uffizi Gallery —
so go ahead and get the grumbling over with.
Hordes of them! A year-round blight! Why
can't they just stay home! Or, if you're like E.
M. Forster's “clever” lady novelist in “A Room
With a View,” the one who exclaims in dismay
over the bovine “Britisher abroad,” admit that
you'd like to administer an exam “and turn
back every tourist who couldn't pass it.”

Snobbery is part of the sophisticated


traveler's baggage — that hasn't changed at
all in the 100 years since Forster, in his
charming novel, skewered the supercilious
“good taste” of those who look down on the
“ill-bred people whom one does meet abroad.”
Nowadays, when everyone in the ill-bred
crowd is snapping photos of the Duomo with a
cellphone, or swarming the Ponte Vecchio,
plastic water bottle in hand, the urge to
override touristic self-loathing by claiming for
oneself a spurious superiority is pretty much
irresistible; Forster, were he still around,
would poke fun at that snobbish impulse with
puckish glee. (But don't let that stop you from
grousing about the sheer number of bodies
blocking the view of the Arno.)

The next thing to do in Florence, according to


Forster, is throw away your guidebook.
Chapter II of “A Room With a View” is called
“In Santa Croce With No Baedeker,” and it's a
gently comic interlude every honest visitor to
that great Franciscan basilica will recognize
as a mocking portrait of himself. Or herself, in
the case of our young heroine, Lucy
Honeychurch, who winds up alone in the vast
interior of Santa Croce without her “Handbook
to Northern Italy.”

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Related Coverage

Florence, Italy
April 29, 2011

E.M. Forster
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