AKC S.T.A.

R Puppy 6 Week Class

Notes

Introduction: What is AKC S.T.A.R Puppy Class?

AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy is an exciting program designed to get dog owners and their
puppies off to a good start. AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy is an excellent first in-person training
class for puppies. AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy provides a good lead-in to earning the Canine
Good Citizen title.

Week 1:
● What is a cue, marker, and release word?
● Cue- is a signal that prompts a dog to perform a specific behavior. It can be a
verbal command, a hand gesture, or a combination of both 1. The cue is used to
communicate to the dog what is expected of them and what they will be
rewarded for doing. When training a dog, it is important to start with a strong
response to hand signals or other body language cues before introducing verbal
cues. This is because dogs are not born with the ability to understand human
language, and verbal cues can be confusing if the dog has not yet learned the
associated behavior. To teach a new behavior use a food lure to get the dog to
perform the desired action. Once the dog has learned the behavior, the food lure
is faded out and is replaced with an empty hand signal. The verbal cue is then
introduced once the dog responds strongly to the hand signal.
● Marker- is a word, sound, or noise (like a clicker) that's used to tell your the
exact moment they did something that earns them a reinforcer (like a treat). It is
a feedback mechanism that communicates to the dog that they are doing
something correctly.
● Release word- is a word that tells your dog he is allowed to move, following the
“Cue” command. Commonly used release words are “All Done,” “break,” and
“free”. The release word you choose should be consistent and upbeat, so your
 dog will know what it means every time. Think of your release word as an on-off
switch for your dog, allowing it to clock out and relax.
● Loading the clicker- Find a quiet, distraction-free place. Press the clicker and
immediately give your dog a treat. Continue to click and treat in quick
succession, ideally 10-20 times per session.
● Watch me / focus / Look- A “watch me” cue allows you to control your dog’s
focus, which is essential during training sessions. Influencing where your dog is
looking will increase your success, particularly with lure-and-reward training
(where you lure a given behavior with a treat or toy) or teaching hand signals. A
dog that isn’t looking simply won’t see what you’re doing. But one who watches
you is waiting to see what you’ll ask for next.
How to Teach a “Watch Me” Cue
The easiest way to teach a “watch me” cue is to lure the behavior from your dog.
If you make it obvious where you want your dog to look, it won’t take long for
them to catch on. Start these exercises in a quiet environment so you’re easily
the most interesting thing in the room. The following steps will help you lure
your dog’s eye contact:

1. Hold a treat in front of your dog’s nose.

2. Slowly bring the treat up between your eyes. Your dog should watch the
treat and be staring at your forehead.
3. Mark your dog’s behavior with a clicker, a marker word like “yes,” or
praise, then give your dog the treat.
4. Repeat the above steps but reward your dog with a treat from your other
hand instead.
5. Repeat steps one to three with an empty hand, but still reward your dog
with a treat when they make eye contact. It can help if you stink up your
fingers first by rubbing them with a treat. You’ve now taught a hand signal
for “watch me.”
6. When your dog is reliably following the hand signal, start saying your
verbal cue like “watch me” or “look” before you move your hand.

● Sit- To teach your dog to sit

1. Hold a treat close to your dog’s nose, making sure they can smell it.
2. Move your hand upwards, slowly bringing the treat towards the back of
their head.
 3. As you do this, their nose will naturally point up, causing them to sit.
4. As soon as your dog sits, say the word “sit” and mark the behaver with a
clicker or a word “yes”/”Good
5. Then use your release word to lure your dog out of the sit position and
give them the treat as a reward.

● Off (off you/ off the bed)- To stop a dog from jumping, you need to reduce the
emotional component when you arrive home and avoid fast movements and loud
voices. Ignore your dog when he jumps up and turn your back or walk away. Do
not make eye contact,or touch your dog. Use the cue “off”.
Wait for your dog to calm down and have all four paws on the floor before you
greet him or give him any attention.

Week 2:

● Down
Luring a Down:
In some ways, the easiest way to train behaviors is to lure them. That means
using a treat or toy to literally lure your puppy into the position or action you
want. Luring shows your puppy where you want them to go, but it’s important to
fade the lure as soon as possible so your puppy responds to a hand signal or
verbal cue rather than waiting to see the lure. You can also use a clicker to help
communicate the exact moment your pup has done something right. Here are
the steps to train down with a lure:
1. With your puppy in a sitting position, hold a treat to their nose palm
facing the ground.
2. Bring the treat down between your puppy’s front paws. They should lower
their head to follow the treat.
3. Continue moving the treat out along the ground away from your puppy.
As your puppy follows the treat, they should lie down.
4. As soon as your puppy is in the down position, click and praise then use
your release word to get them out of the down position and immediately
give them the lure as their reward.
5. After several repetitions, begin to use a treat from your other hand as a
reward so the lure no longer gets eaten.
 6. Finally, lure your puppy with an empty hand and reward with a treat from
the opposite hand. Now you’ve taught a hand signal which is lowering
your hand towards the ground.
7. Once your puppy is responding to the hand signal you can teach a verbal
cue by saying “Down” a second before you give the hand signal. In time,
your puppy should respond to the verbal cue alone.
Shaping a Down:
Shaping means teaching things a step at a time. For down that would mean
teaching your puppy to look at the ground, lower their elbows to the ground, and
finally to lie down, or as many baby steps as your pup requires. The trick is to set
up your puppy for success. Choose a first step your puppy can easily do, then
increase each step slowly without jumping too far in difficulty. It’s better to
make it too easy than to get both you and your puppy frustrated by asking for too
much too soon.
1. Start by using a lure to get your puppy to look at the ground. Click and
praise, then reward the look. After your puppy has mastered that, lure
their head down to the ground before clicking and rewarding. Next you
might ask for bent elbows, and so on. Don’t worry about fading the lure
and adding a verbal cue until you’ve taught the final behavior.
Capturing a Down:
Finally, you can capture a down by rewarding your puppy any time they do it on
their own. Always be prepared with a toy or treats in your pocket and whenever
you see your puppy in the act of lying down, click and praise them. Then offer
them a reward while they are in the down position. After you capture enough
downs, your pup will start to lie down in front of you on purpose, hoping to earn
a reward. Now you can add a hand signal or verbal cue right before you know
they are about to lie down. Your puppy will learn to associate your word or
gesture with their action and soon you will be able to ask for the down at any
time.
● Leave it- “Leave It” Command: Training Your Dog to Ignore Food and Other
Items
Imagine you’ve dropped a chicken bone on the ground at dinner time. Or
perhaps you’ve spilled some medication. The last thing you want is for your dog
to go running toward what they think are treats and scarfing them down (after
all, cooked bones are a dog choking hazard, and the pills could be toxic). It’s
important that your dog understands that everything on the ground isn’t up for
grabs. But how do you teach your dog to leave things be? The “leave it”
command is exactly the cue you’ll need.
1. Place a dog treat in your fist. Let your dog try in any way possible to get
the treat out of your hand. They may paw, lick, and nose at your hand.
2. As soon as your dog stops trying to get the treat, mark the moment with a
training clicker, marker word like “yes,” or praise. Then, immediately say
“take it,” and offer your dog a different treat. The point is to show that not
paying attention to the treat is precisely what earns them a reward.
After several tries, your dog should start pulling back from your fist or
ignoring the treat.
3. Place the treat on your open palm. If your dog tries to get the treat, close
your fist around it and wait for your dog to ignore it. Once your dog does
ignore it, say “take it,” then offer a different treat.
4. Place a treat on the floor and put your hand over it. Let your dog try to get
the treat. As soon as your pet stops trying, mark the moment, then
reward. However, don’t use the treat on the floor as a reward. Instead,
reward your dog with a different treat from your pocket or other hand.
Ideally, make the reward a treat of higher value than the floor treat. This
helps emphasize that leaving certain things alone leads to the chance for
even better things.
5. When your dog is regularly leaving the covered treat alone, start removing
your hand from above that treat. But be ready to cover the treat again if
necessary. The goal is for your dog to ignore the uncovered treat, but you
want to prevent your dog from getting the food at all costs. When your
dog looks away, leans back, or shows disinterest in the uncovered food in
another way, mark and reward with a higher-value treat from your other
hand.
6. Put your dog on a leash and do this same exercise standing up, but use
your foot rather than your hand to cover the dropped food. The leash
prevents your dog from getting any food that you accidentally miss or kick
away.
7. Before you drop the food, tell your dog to “leave it.” When your dog
ignores the food, mark and reward with the higher value treats that are in
your other hand. After many repetitions, your dog should understand the
meaning of the cue. If your dog is automatically leaving the food alone
 when you drop it to the floor, you have taught them about impulse
control.
Teaching “Leave It” for Real-World Situations:
In the real world, there are hazards everywhere, such as a sandwich on the
sidewalk or garbage in the park. Now it’s time to up your training and walk your
dog past things that need to be ignored. In practical situations, here’s how to
work up to using the “leave it” command with your dog.
1. With your dog out of the room, place low-value treats in a row along the ground.
Space them several feet apart. Now bring your leashed dog into view of the floor
treats, say “leave it,” and walk past the row. At each treat, mark and reward your
dog with a high-value treat for ignoring the floor treat, then walk on to the next.
Don’t try to do the whole row at once. If your dog tries to eat the floor treat,
quickly cover it with your foot, using the leash to prevent your dog from reaching
the treat before you.
2. When your dog is ignoring each treat one at a time, try walking past the entire
row after giving the “leave it” cue. Reward a successful run with something
extra-special, like a game of tug or a chew bone. Show your dog that ignoring
things means the chance for something even more amazing.
3. Repeat the above exercises outside on the sidewalk or in the yard. The more
locations you train in, the better your dog will respond, no matter where you are.
4. Replace the food on the ground with other objects your dog loves, such as chew
toys or durable balls for fetch. This will help your dog generalize the cue,
meaning they won’t just leave food alone, but they also won’t try to eat anything
you don’t want them to have without permission.
5. When your dog is reliable with the cue, no matter what the object, it’s time to try
“leave it” and incorporate distractions, like a cat or a person riding a bicycle. Be
ready with a high-value reward, and keep your dog on leash to prevent your dog
from taking off after the distraction. Remember, don’t use the cue if you know
your dog won’t respond. You don’t want your dog to practice ignoring you!
Instead, if your dog isn’t responding to the “leave it” command and reacts to a
distraction, go back to training and work that particular distraction into your
routine. By working through the above steps, your dog will learn to control their
impulses and automatically ignore food on the ground. A strong “leave it”
command means you decide what is safe for eating, not your dog. And by
expanding the cue’s meaning to anything in the environment, you will also be
able to control your dog’s behavior and keep your pet safe.
● Take it:
1. Find a toy that your dog likes and click when he touches it or picks it up with his
mouth.
2. Pair the command “take it” with the click and reward, just before or as your dog
grabs the toy12.
3. Try different toys and items to generalize the command2.
4. Increase the time your dog holds the item before clicking and rewarding.
● Drop it:
Dogs get into things they shouldn’t. They pick up dead animals and try to eat
garbage. Although you should train a solid “leave it” cue to tell your dog to leave
certain things alone, you might not always notice what your dog is doing until
it’s too late. Therefore, an equally important behavior to teach is “Drop It.” This
cue tells your dog to immediately drop whatever they have in their mouth.
Sometimes this will simply be to prevent an annoyance like your dog stealing
your shoe. But at other times this cue can be lifesaving such as when your dog
picks up dropped medication or toxic food like chocolate.
Why You Should Teach “Drop It”
“Drop It” allows you to get items away from your dog without having to run after
them. In fact, as most dogs love the game of chase, this will only increase the
likelihood of your dog taking forbidden things in the future. They quickly learn
it’s a great way to start what they see as a fun way to play with you. Chasing your
dog also increases the chance they will swallow the object to prevent you from
getting it first. Even non-toxic items can pose a choking hazard or create an
intestinal blockage. Teaching your dog to drop items on cue is also a useful
component of fetch as it helps your dog bring objects back to your hand rather
than leaving them on the floor for you to retrieve. And finally, “drop it” is perfect
for trick training. You can have your dog putting their toys in their toy box or
playing dog-sized basketball in no time if they understand how to drop things on
cue.
How to Teach “Drop It” With a Treat
The trick to training your dog to drop items is to make it all about trading – give
them something else in exchange. In addition, during the training process, you
will also give the original item back again. Although you would never do that
with something dangerous, this teaches your dog that “drop it” is a double
bonus. They get a reward for dropping the object and then they get to play with
the object some more. That makes trading incredibly enticing. Here are the steps
for training “drop it” with treats:

1. Offer your dog a low-value toy. It should be something they have an

interest in but don’t feel overly excited about. You want to make it easy
for them to give it up.
2. Let your dog play with the toy for a few seconds.
3. Place a high-value treat in front of your dog’s nose. If you chose a low
enough value toy and an exciting enough treat, your dog should willingly
drop the toy in exchange. As soon as your dog drops the toy, praise or use
a clicker to mark the behavior, then give your dog the treat.
4. While your dog is eating the treat, pick up the toy and hide it behind your
back.
5. Once your dog is finished eating, present the toy again and repeat the
process.
6. When you know your dog will drop the item as soon as you show the treat,
you can add a verbal cue like “drop it,” “trade,” or “out.”
7. After several repetitions, give your cue without showing the treats. If your
dog drops the item, click and praise and provide a jackpot reward (many
treats in a row) to convince them how great it is to play this game. If your
dog doesn’t drop the item without seeing the treats, try waiting one
second between saying your cue and showing the treats. Then slowly
increase that time across repetitions until your dog understands to drop
the item before the treats come out.
If you run into trouble with this technique, here are a few troubleshooting tips.
First, if your dog runs away with the toy, do this training with them on leash so
they have to stay with you. Second, you don’t want to race your dog to the toy
after they drop it. If your dog is trying to get it back before you can get your
hands on it, try tossing the treat a few feet away to buy you time to get the toy.
Or throw several treats on the floor to keep your dog occupied.
How to Teach “Drop It” With a Toy
You can also teach your dog to trade items with toys only. Some dogs simply
aren’t food motivated, but even for those that are, these games can help
reinforce the lesson. You can repeat the exercise above but instead of offering a
treat, offer another toy. If your dog is reluctant to trade, play with the new toy
 and act as if it’s the greatest thing you’ve ever seen. Your dog is sure to drop the
original toy in favor of this exciting new object.

Tug-of-war is another great way to teach “drop it.” Simply present the toy and
start playing. After a few seconds, go still. Your dog will eventually get bored of
playing alone and will drop the toy. When they do, praise them then reward
them with another game of tug. Once your dog is dropping the toy as soon as you
go still, you’re ready to add the verbal cue. You can do the same type of training
with a flirt pole (a toy tied to a string on the end of a pole).

Now that your dog understands the “drop it” cue, anytime they have something
they shouldn’t, ask them to drop the item then reward them with a treat or
acceptable toy or chew bone. If you practiced enough, your dog will happily drop
the forbidden item to trade for something better.

● Loose Leash Walking Introduction: How to Teach a Puppy to Walk on a

Leash
Many people think that dogs just innately know how to walk politely on a leash,
but this skill is something that needs to be trained. It’s an important skill to
teach, and one you’ll value every time you take your dog out for a walk.
Signs your dog may have never worn a collar and leash before:
● Shaking, acting anxious in general
● Whining, crying
● Pawing at the collar
● Moving and jumping like a wild horse
● Rubbing against surfaces in an attempt to remove the collar
● Twisting the head repeatedly
● Backing away in an attempt to slip out of the collar and running off when
successful
When dogs exhibit such strong responses, it means they are "flooded." Flooding,
also known as exposure therapy, is part of behavior therapy. During flooding, a dog is
basically forced to face its fears in hopes to overcome them. But there are few
guarantees this method works. Imagine tossing a child who fears water into a pool—the
child may overcome their fear, or that fear may worsen.
While flooding may yield fast results when it works, it is also more traumatic and less
effective. Also, unlike humans who can rationally talk themselves out of a fear, dogs
panic until their brain shuts down. There are, fortunately, more effective methods. We
will see two of them below.
Introduce the puppy to the collar or harness and leash. The following is a
step-by-step guide on how to introduce a collar and leash using desensitization
and counter-conditioning. These methods combined help a dog get used to the
feel of collar and leash and set the grounds for a positive experience. Let's take a
look at both of them.
Desensitization
Desensitization is a part of behavioral therapy that is opposite to flooding.
Instead of forcing the dog to face its fears—which may be traumatic and
overwhelming—the dog is exposed gradually and under the threshold. If you
hold your dog down and slip a collar on, he will be way over the threshold,
causing him to panic, shake and cry. If, on the other hand, you gradually expose
your dog to the collar, the emotional response will be less intense.
In desensitization, your dog would be exposed to the collar and the feel of
wearing it in gradual increments without overwhelming him. This process takes
quite some time and much care must be taken to work under threshold. You
must be able to recognize early warning signs of stress (becoming tense,
attempting to escape, dilated pupils, licking lips) so to not ask too much at once.
Remember: If the experience your dog is exposed to is too intense, this may lead
to "sensitization" which is the opposite of desensitization, therefore, the fear will
increase rather than decrease. In your case, therefore, you would have to, at the
moment, avoid forcing the collar on him.
Counterconditioning:
While desensitization is a powerful behavior modification program on its own,
by adding counter-conditioning on top of it, its power will double.
Counterconditioning in layman terms means changing the emotional response.
If your dog does not like the collar, he may have been conditioned to act fearfully
at its sight.
In counterconditioning, we are changing your dog's emotional response and
attitude towards the collar, flipping it upside down. In other words, we want to
change the negative associations and create positive ones. So if collar = fear, we
want to shift it to collar = rewards! No need to worry, your dog does not have to
 have a degree in math to understand this equation, nor do you need to have a
degree in behavioral science!
How to Put a Collar on a Dog for the First Time:
Items Needed:
1. High-value treats (e.g., hot dog, liver treats, pieces of leftover steak,
commercial treats)
2. Collar (I like to pick a very light-weight collar for small puppies, such as
those breeders use for their newborn puppies)
3. Food bowl
4. Toys
Method:

1. Place the collar in the middle of the floor and the moment your dog goes to sniff
it, say "good" immediately followed by a treat.
2. If your dog is reluctant to go sniff it, make a small trail of treats that lead to the
collar with a bonus treat (something your dog loves) in the middle of the collar.
3. When you feed your dog, always place the collar next to his bowl. When the food
bowl is put away, so is the collar. The collar comes out only when there is food.
4. Hold the collar in one hand and food in the other. Keep the collar behind your
back. Show it and the moment your dog sniffs the collar, immediately say "good"
and give a treat. Put the collar behind your back once done eating and repeat.
What we are trying to do here is make it clear that the collar is what brings the
treats and once the treat is eaten the collar disappears too. Once your dog gets
used to seeing the collar and actually is eager to see it because he has associated
it with treats you can progress.
5. Take the unbuckled collar and make it touch his neck for a split second and treat
at the same time. Touch the neck and treat; touch the neck and treat. Do this
several times until he looks forward to being touched with the collar.
6. Now buckle the collar the largest it can be made but don't put it on him yet! Get
a handful of treats in one hand and feed it through the loop. His muzzle should
slightly get through the loop. Reward and give treats. Repeat several times trying
to get more and more of his head through the loop.
7. Now unbuckle the collar and place it on his neck and continue the touch neck
and treat; touch neck and treat. Finally, try to briefly make the two ends of the
collar touch while he is busy eating treats. Remove once he is done. Repeat,
repeat, repeat.
 8. Try again to briefly make the two ends of the collar touch while he is busy eating
treats. Remove once he is done. Finally, try to pretend you are buckling it on
while he is busy eating treats. Remove once he is done.
9. Try again to pretend you are buckling it on and give treats. This time though
buckle it for real but very loose. Give treats and repeat.
10. Now buckle it snug enough that two fingers are in between. Make a big deal of it,
tell him how good he looks in it and give lots of treats. Remove the collar and
stop giving treats and no more praise. Don't remove the collar if he starts to
panic or tries to remove it by scratching or rubbing on the floor or furniture (this
should not happen though if you followed the steps carefully). Removing the
collar when your puppy or dog is trying to remove it will only reinforce these
behaviors.
11. Consider that getting a puppy or dog used to wearing a collar can take some
time. Yes, positive associations with treats can help with pups accepting us
putting it on, but after the treat is given, the sensation of that collar encircling
the neck remains, so the pup may be back to scratching at it or rubbing his body
on things to attempt to remove it. This may create negative associations. So
here's how to prevent this.
Something I often have recommended doing is trying to shift the pup's focus off the
collar for the time he is wearing it. If we can do this for a long enough time, the pup will
start accepting the sensation of the collar as the norm. So it's a good idea to put that
collar on when it coincides with rewarding activities that keep the pup's brain focused.

So for example, we may put the collar on right prior to feeding the pup her meals, or
right prior to playing with a new toy, or right prior playing some brain games or
training or right prior exploring in the yard, or right prior having some fun guests over.
Then, right before these enjoyment activities are about to end, we can remove the collar
before the pup returns to focusing on it. The word before is emphasized here because
we don't want to be late and have to wait for the pup to stop trying to take it off on his
own to remove it. Always make a point of removing the collar only once the puppy or
dog is calm.

Tip: Try to put the collar on before mealtime and keep it on during the meal. Remove it once your dog
is done eating. With time, the collar will become a cue that food is coming! Just like a bib!
If at any time during these exercises your dog appears uncomfortable, go back a step and find his
comfort zone again and restart from there. Make it clear that great things happen when the collar is
on but life gets boring when it is out of sight!

How to Train a Dog to Wear a Leash for the Very First Time:

1. Once your dog has become accustomed to the feel of the collar on for gradually
longer and longer periods of time, you can then start introducing the leash. As
soon as you clip the leash on, give a treat, then un-clip it when your dog is done
eating. The clipping sound becomes a cue that a treat is coming!
2. Once your dog enjoys having the leash snapped on, snap it on before mealtime
and then unsnap it once he is done eating.
3. Snap the leash on and now call your dog to you with him dragging it and give
him a treat. Unclip the leash.
4. Snap the leash on and hold it, walk a few steps ahead and call your dog to you,
and give treats.

How to Train Your Puppy or Dog to "Give In" to Leash Pressure: Once your puppy
or dog got used to wearing a collar and having the leash snapped on, it will help if you
can train your puppy or dog to "give in" to leash pressure rather than resist it. Teaching
your puppy to give in to leash pressure is easy. Simply sit on the couch holding the
leash, and very lightly put pressure (give a very gentle tug) and lure your puppy to move
in your direction by showing a treat to encourage him to release the pressure. Praise
your puppy the moment he gives in to the pressure and moves your way.

Practice in the home/ driveway with you walking. Walk and gently put light pressure
and show the treat and praise and reward your puppy for 'giving in" to the pressure and
sticking by your side. Then practice walking up and down the driveway before going on
some brief, fun walks.

Note: If you own a small dog, you are better off using a harness since small dogs are prone
to tracheal collapse.

Note: If your dog tends to slip out of collars due to conformation (some dogs such as
greyhounds or other sighthounds have narrow necks) or learned behavior, invest in a
martingale collar.
Week 3:

Crate training: Choose the Type of Dog Crate

The type of crate you choose will depend on your budget, whether your dog is a chewer,
and what you want to use the crate for. You’ll also want to choose a crate that is secure
enough to prevent an escape, and one that’s easy to assemble and take
apart.

● Plastic dog crates work in the house and can also serve as travel
carriers for dogs. Use them in the car or on plane rides (choose an
airline-approved dog crate that’s appropriate for your dog’s weight
and size). Best of all, plastic crates are easy to clean.
● Metal dog crates are best for canines who tend to chew through
other materials. These crates are the sturdiest you can buy and
provide good air circulation and visibility, but aren’t the most
aesthetically pleasing. Fabric covers offer your dog extra privacy
and beautify these cage-like crates.
● Wood dog crates are typically the most attractive and priciest
option. Most also act as pieces of furniture, like end tables, to blend with your
decor, and offer sturdy support for your dog. Keep in mind that they require
assembly, are heavier than other types of dog crates, and are harder to clean.
● Fabric dog crates are an economical choice if you have a small
breed dog who isn’t going to chew on it. Like plastic crates, many
of these soft crates double as dog travel carriers, but they aren’t
as easy to clean if there is an accident. They are lightweight, easy
to assemble, and most fold down for storage.

Make Sure the Dog Crate is Comfortable

All dog crates require proper ventilation holes or mesh fabric on the sides for your dog
to breathe properly. For dogs who don’t regularly chew on fabric items, add a cozy,
machine-washable bed within the crate to make it inviting. Many crates come with
coordinating beds that you can remove and wash.

Crates are an important part of potty training for dogs and provide dogs with a safe
space to retreat to during the day and night. That’s why it’s so important to crate-train
your dog and choose a crate that will last for years to come, enriching your dog’s
environment.

Pick a Dog Crate That’s the Correct Size

● One important feature of a dog crate is its size. Your dog needs enough room to
sit, stand, and lie down comfortably within the crate. While you want a roomy
crate, you don’t want one that’s too large. This could encourage your dog to
eliminate within the crate because he can sit away from the mess.
● For puppies, choose an expandable crate that’s as large as the typical adult size
of your dog’s breed. These crates contain a divider that you can adjust to expand
the space inside as your puppy grows.

Play Crate Games With Your Dog

● The dog shouldn’t see the crate as a negative place. To ensure this, incorporate
the crate into fun games where the pup goes in and out of the open crate at their
own will. Flayton likes to throw the ball in the crate when playing fetch or hide
treats inside for the dog to find.
Potty training info and bell training game: Create a Housetraining Schedule for
Your Puppy
It is vital to housetraining success. Puppies have tiny bladders, and water runs right
through them. The same is true for solid matter. You have to make sure you are giving
your puppy ample opportunity to do the right thing.

A good guide is that dogs can control their bladders for the number of hours
corresponding to their age in months up to about nine months to a year. (Remember,
though, that 10 to 12 hours is a long time for anyone to hold it!) A 6-month-old pup
can reasonably be expected to hold it for about 6 hours. Never forget that all puppies
are individuals and the timing will differ for each.

Monitor daily events and your puppy’s habits when setting up a schedule. With very
young puppies, you should expect to take the puppy out:
● First thing in the morning
● Last thing at night
● After playing indoors
● After spending time in a crate
● Upon waking up from a nap
 ● After chewing a toy or bone
● After eating
● After drinking
You have to watch your puppy carefully for individual signals and rhythms. Some
puppies may be able to hold it longer than others. Some will have to go out every time
they play or get excited. Some will stop in the middle of a play session, pee, and play
on. As with human babies, canine potty habits are highly idiosyncratic.
Praise
● Scolding a puppy for soiling your rug, especially after the fact, isn’t going to do
anything except make her think you’re a nut. Likewise, some old methods of
punishment, like rubbing a dog’s nose in her poop, are so bizarre that it’s hard to
imagine how they came to be and if they ever worked for anyone. On the other
hand, praising a puppy for doing the right thing works best for everything you
will do in your life together. Make her think that she is a little canine Einstein
every time she performs this simple, natural act. Be effusive in your
praise—cheer, clap, throw cookies. Let her know that no other accomplishment,
ever—not going to the moon, not splitting the atom, not inventing coffee—has
been as important as this pee. Reward your pup with one of his favorite treats.
Make sure they’re nice and small, easy for your puppy to digest.
● If your dog has an accident, says Dr. Burch, don’t make a fuss, just clean up the
mess. A cleaner that also kills odors will remove the scent so the dog will not use
it in the future. Blot up liquid on the carpet before cleaning the rug.
● If you catch the dog starting to squat to urinate or defecate, pick her up and
immediately rush outside. If she does the job outdoors, give her praise and
attention. Remember that when it comes to housetraining, prevention is the key.
To potty train a dog to ring a bell:
1. Hang the bell in the appropriate spot by the door.
2. Encourage your dog to ring the bell with her nose or paw.
3. Reward your dog every time she is able to ring the bell.
4. As you approach the door with your dog, say “Ring the bell,” and point to the
bell. As soon as your dog touches the bell with her nose, click or say “yes!” and
give her a treat reward. Do this every single time you take your dog outside.
Paw: The Tap His Paw Method
1. Sit Put your dog in a sit position and offer him a treat.
2. Tap Gently tap the back of his paw just below his dew claw.
3. Reaction Your dog will react to your tap in some way.
 4. Shake As your dog's paw moves away from your hand, gently pick it up and say
the word 'Shake.'
5. Praise and treats
6. Repeat
Meet and greet with people and dogs:
Dog-to-Dog Greetings: Your Dog Doesn’t Need To Say Hi
Do you run up to and hug or jump on every person you see on the street? Of course not.
Similarly, it’s important to teach our dogs not to try to engage with all the other dogs
they pass during a walk.
As the world reopens after the pandemic, people are bringing their dogs more places
and are often putting a lot of pressure on their pups to be social with other dogs. In
reality, it’s far better for dogs to have space and not be pushed to interact. Most adult
dogs are dog selective or dog tolerant, meaning they don’t want to be greeted by
strange dogs.
Dangerous Interactions
Socialization is a term that gets thrown around a lot, but it actually refers to a very
specific period of puppy development. That said, you can teach adult dogs new skills
and they don’t need to greet or engage with other dogs to be happy or fulfilled. In fact,
allowing your dog to greet every dog you see can lead to longer-term behavioral issues.

If you allow your dog to approach a strange dog, it puts your pet at risk for injury or
illness. One of the big concerns is that those unknown dogs might be unvaccinated or ill
with a contagious condition. It’s also impossible to tell if they will be a good match for
your dog’s temperament. They might have had negative interactions in the past with
other dogs or may be in training. The other dog may not appreciate being greeted,
which could lead to your dog getting lunged at or being caught up in a dog fight. Not
only could this result in your dog getting injured, but it could also lead to long-term
nervousness or even reactivity to other dogs.
Encouraging Neutrality
Rather than encouraging your dog to engage with other dogs, it’s far safer to teach
them neutrality by asking your dog to turn attention toward you instead. This skill is
easiest to teach with young puppies when you first introduce them to walking by
rewarding them for any attention they give you on a walk. But while it’s great to start
building these skills when your dog is you, you can absolutely teach it and reinforce it
with older dogs.
To create neutrality toward other dogs when you’re out in public, your goal is to make
yourself more interesting and “valuable” to your dog. We want our dogs to understand
that going out with us anywhere—from a neighborhood walk to dog-friendly events—is
a chance to play and engage with us and not other dogs. By avoiding setups where our
dogs routinely greet strange dogs, we can teach them that paying attention to us is
more fun and rewarding.
Creating Space
Even if your dog is very friendly, if you see a dog in public, it’s a good idea to create as
much space as possible between the two of them. This will generally make the dogs
calmer and less focused on each other. If you see a dog approaching, it’s a good idea (if
possible) to cross to the other side of the street or give space to another dog and their
owner. If you’re in a crowded area where moving across the street isn’t practical, you
can cross your dog to the other side of you to put your body between your dog and an
approaching dog. This helps create space in case the other dog lunges. When you’re
first teaching your dog to ignore other dogs, that space can also make it easier for your
dog to stay calm and focused on you.
Advocate For Your Dog
You’ll likely come across a situation where a dog approaches uninvited to greet your
dog. In these situations, it’s always okay to interrupt the interaction and prevent the
dog from approaching your dog. Our dogs look to us to keep them safe and comfortable
when out in the world. Part of continuing their neutrality toward other dogs is ensuring
they have positive interactions and understand that we won’t permit them to be
ambushed or approached.
Don’t worry about being rude to a stranger—the most important thing is to stand up for
your dog’s comfort. It’s okay to interrupt people who are approaching your dog or
allowing their dog to approach and say “no.” You could also say something like “my dog
is training,” or “my dog is sick,” or “my dog is recovering” or just simply “my dog
doesn’t want to say hi.” If a verbal rejection doesn’t encourage someone to move their
dog out of your dog’s space, try to create physical distance. If necessary, put yourself
physically between your dog and an oncoming dog to prevent them from approaching.
But My Dog Is Friendly!
While many dogs enjoy the opportunity to play with dogs they know, most adult dogs
don’t enjoy social interactions with every single dog they see. Unfortunately, social
media and dog park culture stereotypes suggest that all dogs should be friends with one
another. This leads to owners allowing — or even pushing — their dogs to interact
(often rudely) with other dogs they meet in public. Although most puppies are very dog
social, in adulthood most dogs become dog selective or dog tolerant, with very few
remaining truly dog social. Some may even become dog reactive.

Hearing someone proclaim “but my dog is friendly” can be frustrating for many dog
owners, especially when their dogs are being bombarded by young, boisterous dogs
whose owners have let off-leash but have no off-leash recall. Unfortunately, these
negative interactions can lead to dogs developing behavioral challenges like reactivity.
If your dog does enjoy meeting and playing with dogs, be sure to seek consent before
allowing them to approach another dog. Or, better yet, connect with other dog owners
to set up planned playdates with dogs you know are vaccinated, healthy, social, and
have a compatible play style with your dog.

How to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash

You will need:
● A collar or harness: buckle collar, Martingale, head halter (like the Gentle Leader
or Halti), or front-clip harness (Easy-Walk or Freedom No-pull)
● A leash: 4-foot or 6-foot length (not a retractable leash)
● Treats
To start:
1. Fill your pocket or treat pouch with treats.
2. Decide what side you’d like the dog to walk on, and hold a few treats on that side
of your body. For example, if you’d like your dog to walk on the left side, hold
treats in your left hand.
3. Hold your leash in the hand opposite the dog. For example, if your dog is on your
left, hold the end of the leash in your right hand. Let the rest of it hang loosely
in a “J”.
4. Take a step, then stop. It’s okay if the dog doesn’t stay in “heel” position. Feed
the dog some treats from your hand, in line with the seam of your pants. This
will help you position the dog.
5. Repeat. Take step, stop, feed a treat at your side, along the seam of your pants.
6. When the dog is looking eagerly up at you for more treats, take two steps instead
of one before stopping and feeding the dog.
7. If the dog pulls ahead, stop walking immediately. Call your dog back to you, or
use the treats in your hand to lure the dog back to your side, but don't treat her
yet: take two to three steps forward before feeding. This is to prevent teaching a
 sequence like: “I pull ahead, I come back, I eat.” We want them to learn that
walking alongside you on a loose leash makes treats happen, not pulling.
8. Gradually take more steps between each treat. You can talk to your dog to help
keep her attention on you.
9. When the dog walks well on a loose leash, give this kind of walk a name. It could
be “heel,” “with me,” “let’s walk,” or another word/phrase of your choice.
10. Release your dog (“all done,” “okay,” “that’ll do,” etc.) when they no longer need
to walk in “heel” position.
To teach an “off-duty” walk:
This will be used in relaxed moments when the dog doesn’t need to be in “heel”
position. The only rule will be, “You can’t pull forward.”
1. Pick a word to signal this new kind of walk. You might use, “free time,” or “hike,”
or “at ease,” or another word of your choice, as long as it is different from your
formal walk cue.
2. Decide how much leash to give your dog. If you walk your dog on a 6-foot leash,
you might simply hold the loop end and let the rest hang loose. If you hold some
of the leash in your hand, plan on doing so throughout the walk, rather than
releasing and gathering it several times. This is to teach the dog how much leash
will be available to them.
3. Give your dog the cue (“free time”) and start walking. They can sniff, change
sides, look around, lie down occasionally; anything but pulling.
4. If your dog pulls forward, stop moving and call him back toward you before
starting again.
5. If your dog fixates on a person, dog or other animal, call your dog’s name and if
possible, move in the opposite direction. Getting closer to the distraction will be
harder, and will most likely set your dog up to pull.
6. If you’d like your dog to walk in “heel” position (due to an approaching walker,
bike, etc.), bring him back to your side and cue him (“heel”).

Week 4:
Come when called:
It’s a common sight: a dog owner asking their dog to “come” again and again while their
dog runs off sniffing the grass. Sound familiar? When you ask your dog to come, you’re
expecting them to stop whatever they are doing and immediately return to you. That’s a
big ask!
A reliable recall is more than convenient, it’s potentially lifesaving. In case of an
emergency, you need to know your dog will come to you no matter what. Read on to
learn how to train a reliable recall.
Collar Grabs and the Name Game:
Before you start training the “come” cue, you need to teach your dog a few other words.
The first is their name, and it should mean “pay attention to me.”
Teaching Your Dog Their Name
You want to teach your dog that when they hear their name, they should look to you for
further instructions. The following steps will help you play the name game:

1. Start with your dog either on leash or in a small, quiet room. You don’t want
distractions.
2. Wait until your dog is looking at anything other than you. Then say your dog’s
name in a happy and excited tone of voice.
3. As soon as your dog turns to look at you, mark the moment with a clicker or
marker word, like “yes.” Then immediately praise and offer a treat.
4. Once your dog is looking enthusiastically every time they hear their name, you
can begin to add distractions like other people in the room or toys on the
ground.
5. In no time, your dog will always have an ear at the ready just in case you call
them because they will know it can potentially lead to getting a reward. And
getting your dog’s focus is the first step to ensuring a recall.
Playing ‘Gotcha’
The second word you need to teach is “gotcha.” Most dogs dart away when you try to
take hold of their collar. But in an emergency, you’ll need to get a hold of your dog. This
exercise is also helpful when you need to clip on your dog’s leash or lead your dog to
the bath. Just as with the name game, you’re going to teach your dog that a collar grab
is the chance to get something delicious. Follow these steps:

1. Lure your dog over to you with a super exciting treat. When they approach, let
them lick or nibble the treat, but don’t hand it over yet.
2. Say “gotcha,” then slowly and gently grab your dog’s collar. Once you have a grip,
release the rest of the treat so your dog can eat it.
3. As you continue your training, make your collar grabs faster and firmer.
 4. Once your dog is comfortable with fast, firm collar grabs, wait to offer the treat
until after you have said “gotcha” and gripped their collar.
5. Practice collar grabs in many different locations, but always offer your dog a
treat after you get hold of them.
Once your dog understands collar grabs are a good thing, you should have no problem
restraining them when they perform a recall. After all, it’s no good for them to come to
you only to run away again as soon as you reach for them.
How to Train a Recall
Now you’re ready to train the recall. The key to success is being the most exciting thing
in your dog’s environment. If you’re where the party is, why wouldn’t your dog want to
come and see what all the excitement is about? But if you sound angry, harsh, or even
just boring, why would your dog be interested? So, start your training in a quiet
environment with your dog on leash. It’s easier to be exciting when there’s no
competition.

You also need to use rewards your dog loves. That might be a game of tug-of-war or a
piece of chicken. Make this so worth their while they would never consider not
responding. These steps will get you started:

1. With your dog only a few feet away from you, say their name, then “come,” and
entice them to approach you. You can pat your legs, make kissy noises, clap your
hands, etc.
2. As soon as your dog approaches you, click/mark the moment, then praise like
crazy while you offer a favorite reward.
3. Once your dog is coming every time you call, add some distance. Let your dog
wander to the end of their leash before you call them back.
4. Now, let them off leash in a quiet room and repeat. To encourage them to
approach you, run backwards as you say “come.” Dogs love a good chase.
5. Repeat your training in different rooms of the house.
6. When your dog is happily running to you every time, ask for a “sit” when they
arrive. Then click/mark/praise and reward. You want your dog to be stationary
when they come, not to bounce away again as soon as they’re done with their
reward.
7. Once you’ve successfully added “sit,” add a “gotcha” every so often to teach your
dog that it’s okay if you restrain them too.
 8. Make sure that whenever your dog comes to you, they get plenty of praise, pets,
and play, as well as a treat or toy. This isn’t a time to be stingy. Your dog should
think that coming when called is incredibly fun. You can even play recall games
like round robin (where a group of people each calls your dog in turn) or find me
(where you hide in another room before you call your dog).

Week 5:
Stay:
1. Have your dog sit in a comfortable spot. Use your marker word or clicker to
mark the behavior.
2. Place your palm out in front of the dog's face while saying 'stay.'
3. Take one or two steps back.
4. Then go back to your dog to release them from that spot.
5. Give your dog a treat.
6. Never have your dog come to you.

Week 6:

AKC S.T.A.R Puppy test