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A unified criterion for initiation of sediment motion and inception of sheet


flow under water waves

Article in Sedimentology · July 2006


DOI: 10.1111/j.1365-3091.2006.00810.x

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Sedimentology (2006) 53, 1181–1190 doi: 10.1111/j.1365-3091.2006.00810.x

A unified criterion for initiation of sediment motion and


inception of sheet flow under water waves
ZAI-JIN YOU* ,  and BAOSHU YIN 
*Coastal Unit, NSW Department of Natural Resources, PO Box 2185, Dangar, NSW 2309, Australia
(E-mail: bob.you@dipnr.nsw.gov.au)
Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 7 Nanhai Rd, Qingdao 266071, China

ABSTRACT

A unified criterion is developed for initiation of non-cohesive sediment


motion and inception of sheet flow under water waves over a horizontal bed of
sediment based on presently available experimental data. The unified
threshold criterion is of the single form, Uo ¼ 2pC[1 + 5(TR/T)2])1/4, where
Uo is the onset velocity of sediment motion or sheet flow, T is wave period, and
C and TR are the coefficients. It is found that for a given sediment, Uo initially
increases sharply with wave period, then gradually approaches the maximum
onset velocity Uo ¼ 2pC and becomes independent of T when T is larger. The
unified criterion can also be extended to define sediment initial motion and
sheet flow under irregular waves provided the significant wave orbital velocity
and period of irregular waves are introduced in this unified criterion.
Keywords Initial motion, irregular wave, onset velocity, sheet flow, threshold
criterion.

INTRODUCTION this approach (e.g. Komar & Miller, 1973; You,


1998). The weakness of the last approach is that
Numerous threshold criteria have been developed the empirical relationships derived from different
for initiation of sediment movement under regu- data sets may not be compatible, but this weak-
lar waves (eg Bagnold, 1946; Manohar, 1955; ness can be overcome if many data sets are used
Komar & Miller, 1973; Madsen & Grant, 1975; (You, 2000).
You, 1998, 2000). The existing criteria have been The inception of sheet flow under water waves
developed with three different approaches. The occurs when bed shear stress is increasing and
first one is to determine individual forces acting sand ripples or other irregularities on the bed
on a single sediment particle and then solve the surface begin to disappear completely and the bed
equation of motion for this particle (e.g. Eagleson becomes totally flat. This type of flow is charac-
et al., 1958). Because there is a great deal of terized by an essentially plane bed, and a thin
uncertainty in determining the drag, lift and moving layer of bed-load sediment at high con-
inertial coefficients, this approach has not been centration. Sheet flow is often found in flooding
applied widely. The second approach is to apply rivers, tidal estuaries during local storms and the
the Shields curve derived in steady flow to study surf zone under ocean waves (You, 1999).
the initiation of sediment motion under waves Because sheet flow has a great effect on sediment
(e.g. Madsen & Grant, 1975). Even though the transport, it is of significance to define the flow
second approach has some weaknesses (Sleath, region in which this type of flow occurs. Unfor-
1978), it has been widely used by many research- tunately, only a few studies on the inception of
ers and coastal engineers. In fact, the first sheet flow under waves have been undertaken
approach is equivalent to the second as discussed (e.g. Komar & Miller, 1975; Wilson, 1989; You,
recently by You (2005). The last approach is to 1999). The approaches used by former investiga-
derive an empirical or semi-empirical relation- tors may be classified into two: the Shields curve
ship based on available experimental data. Most approach (Wilson, 1989) and the empirical or
of the existing criteria have been derived with semi-empirical method (You, 1999).
 2006 The Authors. Journal compilation  2006 International Association of Sedimentologists 1181
1182 Z.-J. You and B. Yin

There is no universal or unified form proposed measured in metre per second and seconds,
to define sediment initial motion and sheet flow respectively. Equation 3 is a simple criterion for
under waves. For example, a general criterion the initiation of sediment motion under regular
form, W ¼ f(A/d), was proposed by Komar & waves.
Miller (1973) to define sediment initial motion Now, assume that Eq. (3) may be also used to
under waves, but a different criterion form, define the inception of sheet flow under regular
W ¼ F[f(A/d) · g(d,s)], was suggested for the waves. If this assumption is valid, a plot of the
inception of sheet flow by Komar & Miller data points (T, A) collected for a given sediment
(1974; 1975), where W is the wave mobility at the inception of sheet flow should also be
number, A the semi-excursion of wave orbit, d linear. Manohar’s (1955) laboratory data on
the sediment grain size and s the specific density. inception of sheet flow are used to verify this
Although the initiation of sediment motion and assumption. Manohar conducted a comprehen-
inception of sheet flow are two different physical sive study on sediment initial motion, sediment
processes, they may be defined in a universal or general motion, initiation of sediment ripples,
unified form. In this study, a unified threshold development of ripples and disappearance of
criterion is developed for initiation of sediment ripples in an oscillatory flow simulated by an
motion and inception of sheet flow under regular oscillating bed in a glass-walled flume. The
waves and then extended to apply to irregular oscillating bed, which was made of a horizontal
waves. stainless steel platform (30 cm wide and 200 cm
long) and held a thick layer of sediment, was
made to oscillate longitudinally on rollers fixed
A UNIFIED CRITERION to the flume bottom. Manohar (1955) defined the
initiation of sediment motion when a few sedi-
ment grains started to move on the bed. The
Formulation
inception of sheet flow is defined in this study as
The initiation of sediment movement and incep- occurring when sediment ripples completely
tion of sheet flow over a horizontal bed under disappear from the bed surface. Thus, Manohar’s
regular waves may be uniquely defined by three data on disappearance of sediment ripples are
groups of variables: sediment properties (d, qs), used to verify Eq. (3). The plots of Manohar’s
wave parameters (A, T), and water characteristics data points (T, A) collected for individual sedi-
(qw,m). For coastal engineering applications, how- ment grains at the inception of sheet flow are
ever, water density qw and kinematic viscosity m shown in Fig. 1. Indeed, it can be seen that wave
may be considered as constants. Therefore, the six orbital semi-excursion A is linearly proportional
independent parameters of the three groups to wave period T for given sediment (d, qs). The
reduce to four: sediment diameter d, sediment linear regression lines are also drawn for differ-
density qs, wave orbital semi-excursion A and ent sediments (Fig. 1). The correlation coefficient
wave period T. A unified criterion for initiation of R2 is shown always higher than 0Æ9. Therefore,
sediment motion and inception of sheet flow may Eq. (3) is a unified threshold criterion applicable
be generally expressed as to both initial sediment motion and sheet flow
under regular water waves.
f ðd; qs ; A; TÞ ¼ 0: ð1Þ

When sediment grain size and density (d, qs) Coefficient determination
are given, the unified criterion, Eq. (1), can be
The coefficients C and To in Eq. (3) are only
further simplified as
dependent upon sediment grain size and density
A ¼ f ðTÞ ð2Þ (d, qs) as shown in Fig. 1. For a given sediment, C
and CTo physically represent the slope and
Based on a wide range of experimental data on intercept of the linear regression lines in Fig. 1
sediment initial motion under regular waves, the and thus they can be directly determined from the
explicit expression of Eq. (2) was determined by plots of (T, A). For different sediments, however,
You (2000) as C and To generally vary with d and qs as shown in
Fig. 1. Based on five different sets of experimental
A ¼ CðT  To Þ; ð3Þ data on initiation of sediment motion under
where C and To are the coefficients dependent waves, the values of C and To were calculated
upon sediment grain size and density only and by You (2000) as
 2006 The Authors. Journal compilation  2006 International Association of Sedimentologists, Sedimentology, 53, 1181–1190
Initial sediment motion and sheet flow 1183

Fig. 1. The unified threshold criterion, A ¼ C(T ) To), is compared with Manohar’s (1955) data (A, T) on inception
of sheet flow under waves, where ‘d’ and ‘s’ are sediment grain size and specific density.

Cd mTo Fortunately, it will be shown later that the


¼ 253s092
 ; 2
¼ 53s13
 and simple criterion Eq. (3) is insensitive to To
m d
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
d ðs  1Þgd when T > 5 s. Similarly, Manohar’s (1955)
s ¼ ; ð4Þ experimental data on inception of sheet flow
4m
are also plotted in Fig. 3. Again, the dimen-
where s* is called the scaled dimensionless sionless parameters dC/m and mTo/d2 are shown
immersed sediment weight (You, 1998). The to be only a function of s*, and may be
values of C and To calculated from Eq. (4) are estimated as
compared with those from the experimental
Cd mTo
data of Bagnold (1946), Manohar (1955), Hori- ¼ 135s078
 and ¼ 30s13
 ; ð5Þ
kawa & Watanabe (1967), Rance & Warren m d2
(1968) and Sleath (1978) in Fig. 2. It can be where C is much larger (e.g. five times) than that
seen that the dimensionless parameters Cd/m in Eq. (4), but To is smaller (e.g. 0Æ6 times) than
and mTo/d2 are only the function of s* and well that in Eq. (4). Finally, Eq. (3), together with Eqs
estimated by Eq. (4). The calculated values of (4) and (5), may be used as the unified threshold
Cd/m are shown to generally agree better with criterion for initiation of sediment motion and
the experimental data than those of mTo/d2. inception of sheet flow under waves.
 2006 The Authors. Journal compilation  2006 International Association of Sedimentologists, Sedimentology, 53, 1181–1190
1184 Z.-J. You and B. Yin

Fig. 2. Variations of C and To with s* determined from the experimental data on initial sediment motion under
waves (You, 2000).

Fig. 3. Variations of C and To with s* determined from Manohar (1955) data on inception of sheet flow.

range from 5 to 15 s and are much larger


Unified criterion
than To. However, Eq. (3) may not be valid for
The unified criterion, Eq. (3), is only valid for short waves and light sediment. For example,
T > To. The value of To is less sensitive to wave periods generated in the laboratory wave
sediment grain size than to sediment density flume normally range from 1 to 3 s, while To
according to Eqs (4) and (5). The To value in calculated from Eq. (4) is about 1Æ7 s for light
Eq. (3) is about 0Æ6 s for initial motion of sand sediment of coal particles with s ¼ 1Æ3 and
and 0Æ4 s for sheet flow over a sandy bed. In d ¼ 0Æ1–1 mm. Consequently, the condition of
general, Eq. (3) should always be applicable in T > To required by Eq. (3) cannot always be
the coastal zone where the wave periods met. You (2000) proposed a different criterion
 2006 The Authors. Journal compilation  2006 International Association of Sedimentologists, Sedimentology, 53, 1181–1190
Initial sediment motion and sheet flow 1185

for initiation of sediment motion under short gradually approaches the maximum onset velo-
waves of T 6 TR city Uo ¼ 2pC and becomes independent of T
when T is large. This variation of Uo with T
 
2TR C T 3=2 depicted in Fig. 4 is supported by a wide range of
A¼ for T  TR ð6Þ experimental data on sediment initial motion
3 TR
presented in fig. 9 of You (2000). The incipient
where TR was uniquely determined as TR ¼ 3To. velocity of sheet flow is generally much larger
(For details of the derivation of Eq. (6), refer to (e.g. about five times) than the onset velocity of
You, 2000.) sediment motion in Fig. 4.
Because few data on inception of sheet flow
were collected with short wave periods (e.g.
T < 1Æ0), Eq. (6) may be also assumed to be valid COMPARISONS
for the inception of sheet flow under waves of
T < 3To. Finally, Eqs (3) and (6) may be used as Numerous researchers have collected experimen-
the complete unified criterion for initial motion of tal data on initiation of sediment motion under
sediment and inception of sheet flow under waves (e.g. Bagnold, 1946; Manohar, 1955; Eagle-
regular waves. However, because the onset velo- son et al., 1958; Rance & Warren, 1968). The
city Uo of sediment motion or sheet flow can be unified criterion, Eq. (7) together with Eq. (4),
directly measured in the laboratory and field, it was compared by You (2000) with nine different
would be convenient to rewrite Eqs (3) and (6) as sets of experimental data on sediment initial
8   motion. It was concluded that the unified criter-
> T
< 2pC 1  R for T > TR ion, Eq. (7), generally agrees better with the
Uo ¼ 3T ð7Þ experimental data than the three commonly used
> pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
: 4pC T=T for T  T criteria of Komar & Miller (1974), Madsen & Grant
R R
3 (1975) and Hallermeier (1980). Figure 5 also
where Uo ¼ 2pA/T. Equation (7) is the unified shows the comparison of the unified criterion,
criterion for initiation of sediment motion and Eq. (8), with 10 different sets of experimental data
inception of sheet flow under waves derived in on sediment initial motion. The five sets of
this study, and can be further simplified into a experimental data from Vincent (1957), Carstens
single equation as et al. (1969), Larsen et al. (1981), Young & Sleath
(1988) and Paphitis et al. (2001) are not used to
Uo ¼ 2pC½1 þ 5ðTR =TÞ2 1=4 ; ð8Þ derive the coefficients C and To in Eq. (8) and can
be used to independently verify if Eq. (8) can
by applying the logarithmic matching method of perform well. It can be seen from Fig. 5 that the
Guo (2002). In general, a nonlinear equation with single-criterion Eq. (8) agrees quite well with the
two asymptotic solutions can be approximated experimental data. The most recent data set of
with this logarithmic matching method. As two Paphitis et al. (2001) is found to agree better with
asymptotic solutions, Eq. (8) than the criterion of Komar & Miller
n (1974). Equation (8) is also found to be easier to
0 at T ¼ 0
Uo ¼ apply than Eq. (7).
2pC at T ! 1
Few data on inception of sheet flow under waves
can be found from Eq. (7), a single nonlinear have been collected, and the data set of Manohar
equation with the two asymptotic solutions, (1955) is the only comprehensive data set available
Eq. (8), can then be constructed with this match- in this study. The threshold criteria of Komar &
ing method. The relative error in calculating Uo Miller (1975), Wilson (1989) and Eq. (8) are
via Eq. (8) ranges from )4Æ8% to 2Æ4% in compar- compared with Manohar’s data. The incipient
ison with Eq. (7), and thus Eq. (8) is a good velocity Uo of sheet flow is calculated from the
approximation to Eq. (7). The introduction of criterion of Komar & Miller (1975) as
Eq. (8) will significantly simplify the procedure
 
in calculating the onset velocity Uo of sediment pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 554 3=7 1=7
motion or sheet flow. The variation of Uo with T Uo ¼ ðs  1Þgd s with
fw
for different sand diameters is calculated from
fw ¼ exp½5213ðd=AÞ0194  5977; ð9Þ
Eq. (8) and shown in Fig. 4. It can be seen that
when sediment properties (d, qs) are given, Uo
initially increases sharply with wave period, then and from the criterion of Wilson (1989) as
 2006 The Authors. Journal compilation  2006 International Association of Sedimentologists, Sedimentology, 53, 1181–1190
1186 Z.-J. You and B. Yin

A 60

d = 3·0 mm
Onset velocity (cm sec–1)

40 d = 1·5 mm

d = 0·75 mm

d = 0·3 mm
20
d = 0·1 mm

0
0 2 4 6 8

B 125
Incipient velocity (cm sec–1)

d = 0·65 mm

d = 0·45 mm
100
d = 0·30 mm
d = 0·20 mm

d = 0·12 mm
75

Fig. 4. The variation of Uo with T is


calculated from Eq. (8) using differ-
ent sand diameters ‘d’ when initi-
50 ation of sediment motion occurs (A)
0 2 4 6 8
and when inception of sheet flow
Wave period (sec) begins under regular waves (B).

 
50 pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 2H 05
Uo ¼ ðs  1Þgd with
fw
 04
A
Calculated onset velocity (cm sec–1)

40 fw ¼ 0114 : ð10Þ
ðs  1ÞgT 2

where Q ¼ 0Æ8 is the Shields parameter defined as


30
H ¼ 05fw Uo2 . The wave friction factors applied
Bagnold (1946) in Eqs (9) and (10) are shown to be quite different.
Manohar (1955) It can be seen from Fig. 6A that the unified
20 Vincent (1957)
Cartsen (1965)
criterion, Eq. (8) together with Eq. (5), agrees
Horikawa (1967) slightly better with the experimental data than
Rance (1968)
Sleath (1978)
the criterion of Komar & Miller (1975), but
10
Larsen (1981) appears better than that of Wilson (1989). It
Young (1988)
Paphitis (2001)
should be noted that the criteria of Eqs (8) and
(9) are all derived from the same data set of
0 Manohar (1955) and thus they should perform
0 10 20 30 40 50
Measured onset velocity (cm sec–1) better than Wilson’s (1989) criterion. More
Fig. 5. Comparison of the unified criterion, Eq. (8) to- experimental data are definitely required to verify
gether with Eq. (4), with 10 different sets of experi- if Eq. (8) is more accurate than Wilson’s criterion.
mental data on initiation of sediment motion under The variation of the mobility number W and the
waves. Shields parameter Q with s* at the inception of
 2006 The Authors. Journal compilation  2006 International Association of Sedimentologists, Sedimentology, 53, 1181–1190
Initial sediment motion and sheet flow 1187

A 200 B 270 0·9

Eq.(8)
Komar (1975)
Predicted Uo (cm sec–1) Wilson (1989)

150 180 0·6

Shields parameter
Mobility number
100 90 0·3

Mobility number
Shields parameter
50 0 0
50 100 150 0 50 100
Measured Uo (cm sec–1) d ( s −1) gd /(4ν )

Fig. 6. (A) Comparison of the threshold criteria of Komar & Miller (1975), Wilson (1989), and Eq. (8) with Manohar’s
(1955) data on inception of sheet flow.

sheet flow is also shown in Fig. 6B. The wave simply expressed as u ~ ðtÞ ¼ Uo sinðxtÞ, where Uo
mobility number at the inception of sheet flow, is the onset velocity and x the angular frequency.
W ¼ Uo2 =½ðs  1Þgd, is shown to vary signifi- The root-mean-square wave orbital velocity urms
cantly from 34 to 226 rather than being a constant, of n regular waves can then be calculated as
e.g. W ¼ 240 suggested by Dingler & Inman (1976)
 Z nT 05
or W ¼ 156 by Nielsen (1981). The threshold 1 2 1
criterion of W ¼ 156 or W ¼ 240 is shown not to urms ¼ ~ dt
u ¼ pffiffiffi Uo : ð11Þ
nT 0 2
agree well with the data of Manohar (1955) in
Fig. 6B. Li & Amos (1999) also found that W varies On the other hand, the root-mean-square orbital
significantly with sand diameter, e.g. velocity Urms of n irregular waves at the initiation
W ¼ 12d)0Æ71 where d must be in centimetres. of sediment motion or sheet flow can be directly
This is because the incipient velocity Uo is not measured near the seabed. If the n irregular waves
constant for the given sediment, and varies are considered equivalent to the n regular waves,
significantly with T as shown in Eq. (9). It is also the root-mean-square velocity urms of the n regular
shown in Fig. 6B that the Shields parameter, waves called the kinematic wave energy should be
Q ¼ 0Æ5fwW, varies from 0Æ3 to 1Æ0 with s* rather equal to Urms of the n irregular waves, i.e. urms ¼
than a constant, e.g. Q  1 proposed by Van Rijn Urms. Substituting urms ¼ U ffiffiffi into Eq. (11), the
prms
(1989), where fw is calculated from Eq. (9). Li & simple relationship, Uo ¼ 2Urms ¼ U1=3 (You &
Amos (1999) also showed that Q varies signifi- Hanslow, 2001) is obtained, where U1/3 is called
cantly with sand diameter, e.g. Q ¼ 0Æ172d)0Æ38. the significant onset orbital velocity. This simple
With the wave friction factor calculated from relationship, Uo ¼ U1/3, is also supported by
Eq. (9) rather than Eq. (10), the criterion of Green’s (1999) field data on initiation of sediment
Q ¼ 0Æ56 is found to give a better fit to Manohar’s motion under ocean waves.
data, but remains less accurate than the unified Now, the unified threshold criterion Eq. (8)
threshold criterion, Eq. (8). may be extended to define the initiation of
sediment motion and inception of sheet flow in
estuarine and coastal waters
APPLICATION
U1=3 ¼ 2pC½1 þ 5ðTR =T1=3 Þ2 1=4 : ð12Þ
The unified criterion Eq. (8), which is derived
under regular waves, may be extended to define That is, when the onset velocity U1/3 calculated
sediment initial motion and sheet flow under from Eq. (12) is smaller than one measured in
irregular waves. When the initiation of sediment the field, the initial motion of sediment or
motion or sheet flow occurs under regular waves, inception of sheet flow will occur. If the signi-
0
instantaneous wave orbital velocities can be ficant orbital velocity U1=3 is not directly meas-
 2006 The Authors. Journal compilation  2006 International Association of Sedimentologists, Sedimentology, 53, 1181–1190
1188 Z.-J. You and B. Yin

ured in the field, it may be computed from the 25

measured significant wave height H1/3 by using

Onset velocity U1/3 (cm sec–1)


linear wave theory 20
Eq.(8)
Measured
0 pH1=3 Madsen & Grant
U1=3 ¼ ; ð13Þ 15
T1=3 sinhðkhÞ Komar & Miller

where k is the wave number and h the local mean 10


0
water depth. Note that U1=3 is the significant
orbital velocity measured in the field and may not
5
necessarily be equal to the onset velocity U1/3 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Tests
calculated from Eq. (12). The wave number k can
be numerically iterated from the dispersion equa- Fig. 7. The unified threshold criterion is compared
tion, ko ¼ k tanh(kh), or explicitly calculated with the field data of Larsen et al. (1981) and the
threshold criteria of Komar & Miller (1974) and Madsen
from the formula of Hunt (1979), where ko is the
& Grant (1975).
wave number in deep water. For most coastal
engineering applications, however, a simple for-
mula of You (2003) may be used to explicitly
calculate the value of kh in shallow and inter- wave-current flow unless the combined flow is
mediate waters dominated by currents.
The unified criterion Eq. (8) or Eq. (12) can be
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 1 4 16
05
also applied to define sediment general motion
kh ¼ ko h 1 þ ðko hÞ þ ðko hÞ2 þ ðko hÞ3 ; and sediment ripple formation under waves (You,
3 45 945
2005), but with different values of C and TR in
ð14Þ
Eq. (8). The onset velocity of sediment general
motion is greater than that of sediment initial
which has a relative error <0Æ5% and is valid for
motion, but less than that of sediment ripple.
koh £ 2 in comparison with the exact solution to
Based on Manahor’s data on initiation of sedi-
the dispersion equation.
ment ripple, for example, the coefficients C and
Few data on initiation of sediment motion have
To can be estimated as
been collected in the field. Larsen et al. (1981)
collected field data on the initiation of sediment
motion at three continental shelf sites using an Cd mTo
¼ 55s078
 and ¼ 169s164
 : ð15Þ
instrumented tripod sitting on the seabed. The m d2
initiation of sediment movement was defined
when the measured water turbidity suddenly In the coastal zone, it is often required to
increased above previously sustained background determine at what water depth the initiation of
levels. The wave periods ranged from 10 to 16 s sediment motion or sheet flow will occur. This
and sediment grain size from 0Æ035 to 0Æ17 mm. water depth is called the critical water depth.
0
The onset velocities U1=10 of sediment motion The critical water depths for initial sediment
were measured at 1Æ0 m above the seabed, where motion, sediment ripple formation and sheet
0
U1=10 is the average of the highest 10% of the flow are calculated by equalling Eqs (12) and
measured wave orbital velocities and (13), and are compared in Fig. 8. It can be seen
0 0
U1=3 ¼ 079U1=10 (You & Hanslow, 2001). The that the critical water depths for initial sediment
field data of Larsen et al. (1981) are compared motion are larger than those for sediment ripple
with Eq. (12) and the threshold criteria of Komar formation and sheet flow. Figure 8 also shows
& Miller (1974) and Madsen & Grant (1975) and that the critical water depth for inception of
shown in Fig. 7. It can be seen that the unified sheet flow is significantly affected by wave
threshold criterion, Eq. (12), agrees better with period, but much less by sediment grain size.
the field data than the other two criteria. Note that The critical water depth for the inception of
Eq. (12) ignores the effect of currents on the onset sheet flow would be smaller than the depth of
orbital velocity. The onset orbital velocity of closure, at which the seabed level changes are
sediment motion or sheet flow under pure waves insignificant (e.g. less than 2–5 cm). The depth
should always be larger than that under waves of closure is an essential parameter for estima-
and currents (You, 1997). In general, sediment is ting the volume of sand needed to nourish
often initiated by individual waves in combined eroded sandy beaches.
 2006 The Authors. Journal compilation  2006 International Association of Sedimentologists, Sedimentology, 53, 1181–1190
Initial sediment motion and sheet flow 1189
90 Carstens, M.R., Neilson, R.M. and Altinbilek, H.D. (1969) Bed
1 forms generated in the laboratory under an oscillatory flow:
T analytical and experimental study. Technical Memo, No.28.
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering
Critical water depth (m)

d 2
T Research Center, Washington, D.C.
60
d Dingler, J.R. and Inman, D.L. (1976) Wave formed ripples in
3
seashore sands. Proc. 15th Coastal Eng. Conf., ASCE, Hono-
4
T lulu, Hawaii, 2109–2126.
d Eagleson, P.S., Dean, R.G. and Peralta, L.A. (1958) The
30
d mechanics of the motion of discrete spherical bottom sedi-
T 5
ment particles due to shoaling waves. Technical Memo, No
d
104. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Beach Erosion Board,
Washington, DC.
0 Green, M. (1999) Test of sediment initial motion theories
0 3 6 9 12
Wave height H1/3 (m)
using irregular wave field data. Sedimentology, 46, 427–
441.
Fig. 8. The critical water depths calculated from the Guo, J. (2002) Logarithmic matching and its applications in
unified criterion Eq. (8) for: (1) initial motion of sedi- computational hydraulics and sediment transport. J. Hy-
ment, (2) initiation of sand ripples and (3–5) inception draul. Res. IAHR, 40, 555–565.
of sheet flow under waves. Hallermeier, R.J. (1980) Sand motion initiation by water
waves: two asymptotes. J Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng.,
ASCE, 106, 299–318.
CONCLUSION
Horikawa, K. and Watanabe, A. (1967) A study on sand
movement due to wave action. Coast. Eng. Jpn, 10, 39–57.
The unified single threshold criterion, Eq. (8) Hunt, J.N. (1979) Direct solution of wave dispersion equation.
together with Eqs 4 and 5, has been developed J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE, 105, 457–459.
for initiation of sediment motion and inception of Komar, P.D. and Miller, M. (1973) The threshold of sediment
movement under oscillatory water waters. J. Sed. Petrol., 43,
sheet flow under regular waves. It is found that the
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This study has been supported by the Distin- ripples. J. Geophys. Res. 86, 6467–6472.
Paphitis, D., Velegrakis, A.F., Collins, M.B. and Muirhead, A.
guished Overseas Young Researcher Grant (No.
(2001) Laboratory investigations into the threshold of
40428001) of the National Natural Science Foun- movement of natural sand-sized sediments under uni-
dation of China. The technical comments made directional, oscillatory and combined flows. Sedimentology,
by Professor Paul Carling and two anonymous 48, 645–659.
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