Marine Geology, 56 (1984) 93--118 93

Elsevier Science Publishers B.V., Amsterdam -- Printed in The Netherlands

MORPHODYNAMIC VARIABILITY OF SURF ZONES AND BEACHES:

A SYNTHE:~IS*

L.D. WRIGHT and A.D. SHORT

Virginia Institute of Marine Science, School of Marine Science, College o f William and
Mary, Gloucester Point, VA 23062 (U.S.A.)
Coastal Studies Unit, Department of Geography, University of Sydney, Sydney, N.S.W.
2006 (Australia)
(Received March 22, 1983; revised and accepted July 8, 1983)

ABSTRACT

Wright, L.D. and Short, A.D., 1984. Morphodynamic variabilityof surf zones and beaches:
A synthesis. Mar. Geol., 56: 93--118.

A synthesis of some results obtained over the period 1979---1982 from a study of
beach and surf zone dynamics is presented. The paper deals with the different natural
beach states, the process signatures associated with these states, environmental controls
on modal beach state, and the temporal variability of beach state and beach profiles.
Hydrodynamic processes and the relative contributions of different mechanisms to
sediment transport and morphologic change differ dramatically as functions of beach
state, that is depending on whether the surf zone and beach are reflective,dissipative or
in one of several intermediate states. Depending on beach state, near bottom currents
show variations in the relative dominance of motions due to: incident waves, subharmonic
oscillations, infragravity oscillations, and mean longshore and rip currents. On reflective
beaches, incident waves and subharmonic edge waves are dominant. In highly dissipative
surf zones, shoreward decay of incident waves is accompanied by shoreward growth of
infragravity energy; in the inner surf zone, currents associated with infragravity standing
waves dominate. On intermediate states with pronounced bar-trough (straight or cres-
centic) topographies, incident wave orbital velocities are generally dominant but signifi-
cant roles are also played by subharmonic and infragravity standing waves, longshore
currents, and rips. The strongest rips and associated feeder currents occur in association
with intermediate transverse bar and rip topographies.
Long-term consecutive surveys of different beaches with contrasting local environ-
mental conditions provide the data sets for empirical--statistical assessment of beach
mobility, direction of change and response to environmental conditions. Conditions of
persistently high wave energy combined with abundant and/or fine grained sediment
results in maintaining highly dissipative states which exhibit very low mobility. Relatively
low mobility is also associated with persistently low-steepness waves acting on coarse-
grained beach sediments. In such cases, the modal beach state is reflective. The greatest
degree of mobility is associated with intermediate but highly changeable wave condi-
tions, medium grained sediment and a modest or meager sediment supply. Under such
conditions, the beach and surf zone tend to alternate among the intermediate states and
to exhibit well-developed bar trough and rhythmic topographies. A good association is

*Contribution No. 1135 from the Virginia Institute of Marine Science.

0025-3227/84/$03.00 © 1984 Elsevier Science Publishers B.V.

94

f o u n d b e t w e e n b e a c h state a n d t h e e n v i r o n m e n t a l p a r a m e t e r ~ = Hb/(ffVsT ) w h e r e H b is
b r e a k e r height, ~vs is m e a n s e d i m e n t fall velocity a n d T is wave period. T e m p o r a l vari-
ability of b e a c h s t a t e reflects, in part, t h e t e m p o r a l variability a n d rate o f c h a n g e of ~ ,
w h i c h , in t u r n d e p e n d s o n d e e p - w a t e r wave climate and n e a r s h o r e wave m o d i f i c a t i o n s .

INTRODUCTION

Surf zones and beaches are interesting because they are not all the same.
They vary in time with changing wave conditions and both the modal condi-
tions and range of time variations vary spatially with environmental
conditions. The temporal and spatial differences can be dramatic; they in-
volve not only differences in depositional morphology but also significant
differences in form-coupled hydrodynamic behavior. The nature and severity
of the hazards which are attendant on the rapid advances and retreats of
bars and shorelines and on the associated water motions also vary with time
and place. In taking a morphodynamic approach to surf zone and beach
behavior, we are concerned with the complete assemblages of depositional
forms, hydrodynamic processes, and processes of sediment redistribution;
with the patterns, sequences and extents of temporal changes of those
assemblages; and with the relationships of the assemblages and their tem-
poral variability to environmental conditions.
The relatively high but temporally and spatially variable energy regimes
of Australia have afforded excellent laboratories for studying the full natural
range of beach and surf zone morphodynamics. Our field studies of
Australian beaches and surf zones over a wide range of environmental con-
ditions, sediment types and morphodynamic states (Short, 1979a, b; Wright
et al., 1979a, b, 1982a, b, c; Short and Wright, 1981; Wright, 1981, 1982;
Wright and Short, 1983) point to the following generalizations:
(1) Depending on local environmental conditions, sediments, and ante-
cedent wave conditions, beaches and surf zones may be dissipative, reflec-
tive, or in any o f at least four intermediate states.
(2) The relative contributions of incident waves, subharmonic and infra-
gravity standing waves and edge waves, and net surf zone circulations to near
b o t t o m currents and resultant sand transport vary with beach state.
(3) The actual mechanisms which cause beach cut and the wave energy
required to induce beach cut are dependent on beach state.
(4) As beach state changes with time, for example in response to changing
breaker height, the signature o f hydrodynamic processes mutates permitting
the evolution o f morphodynamic regimes which are free, to varying degrees,
from complete forcing by deepwater wave conditions.
(5) The modal (or most recurrent) beach state represents a response to
the modal breaker characteristics and the prevailing sediment character-
istics.
(6) The temporal range of beach state and profile changes depend not
only on the variability of the deepwater waves but also on the roughness and
gradient of the inner continental shelf.
 95

This paper is intended to provide a general synthesis of recent results of

our study including the most recent developments in predicting modal
beach state and beach and surf zone variability in terms of environmental
conditions. The more detailed arguments and mathematical formulations
underlying the material in this report may be found in our recent publica-
tions and reports, particularly Short (1981); Wright (1981, 1982); Bradshaw
(1982); Nielsen et al. (1982); Wright et al. (1982a, b, c); Wright and Short
(1983). The aim here is to integrate results to date.

THE STUDY ENVIRONMENTS AND THE DATA SET

Field results were obtained from contrasting environments around the

coast of Australia. Although moderate to high wave energy is a general
characteristic of most of the study sites, the study includes beaches with
varying degrees of topographic sheltering and encompasses prolonged periods
over which large temporal variations in energy occurred.
Figure 1 shows the locations of the main study areas. Table I lists all of
the beaches studied and summarizes the types of data obtained from each.
Several beaches on the New South Wales coast provide examples of the full
range of dissipative, intermediate, and reflective states owing to varying
sediment size and varying degrees of comparmentization and sheltering.
These beaches include Seven Mile Beach (dissipative), Moruya (intermediate),
Bracken (reflective), Narrabeen-Collaroy (intermediate), Fisherman's (reflec-
tive), Palm (intermediate) and Fens (intermediate). The New South Wales
coast experiences an east coast swell regime characterized by a highly variable
wind-wave climate superimposed on persistent moderate, long-period south-
easterly swell (Short and Wright, 1981). Weakly embayed sand beaches
alternate with rock headlands. Littoral drift tends to be weak or negligible
in comparison to shore normal transport. Semi-diurnal tides have a mean
spring range of 1.6 m (microtidal).
Eastern Beach in East Gippsland (Wright et al., 1982c) is storm-wave
dominated with pronounced intermediate bar-trough topography, strong
longshore currents and littoral drift. Highly variable wave conditions result
from the frequent passage of southwesterly or southeasterly gales. Spring
tide range averages 1.5 m. Goolwa Beach in South Australia faces directly
into the perennially high energy west coast swell of the Southern Ocean and
is highly dissipative (Wright et al., 1982a). Spring tide range there is only
0.8 m. A macrotidal environment (spring range 9.5 m) with low to moderate
energy waves dominate Cable Beach near Broome, Western Australia in the
northwest (Wright et al., 1982b).
Data on morphologic change are most extensive for the Narrabeen--
Collaroy--Fisherman's compartment (Short, 1979a, b), Moruya Beach
(Wright et al., 1979a; Thom and Bowman, 1981) and Seven Mile Beach.
Monthly surveying transects of Narrabeen, Collaroy and Fisherman's beaches
have been replicated over a period of 6 yrs. Daily observations of beach state
cover 6 yrs for Narrabeen Beach and 9 months for Palm Beach. During
96

116 ~ lIE, ~ , ~ 200~~ 1 3 4 ' 1140 ~ ,,146 ~ 52'

, EASTERN BEACH

•; : .... " p

\ •
,o,, L v,cro,,~

Sr,~ Ee~rrr~

.~/I fl)/ ,,' ,~ ............ ~.,,

:" ...... BEACH \',~-' S~f '1 l , ~\~ ....

t
)::11

,
o o ~'/o
" ' BEAGH ~I
*m N A R R A B E E N - COLLAROY

C O A S TA L S T U D I E S UNIT,1979- 1982

Fig.1. Locations and compartment shapes of major study sites.

 97

TABLE I
Coastal Studies Unit -- Beach experiments and investigations 1976--1982
NO Locatlon Date ht Beac h £m i~n l i l l e Experiment
m Type q~,,oe m

1 S ¢ o t t s ~ead i 12.l~, h 1 B D l.h 3 u r f z o n e morphodynamlc~

2 Grants B~ach B.B2 Z 1 BI 16 Beach offshore survey

20 Box c o r i n g

3 ~ens [mbayment 1979 91 Ib .F:-? Bf 1( Beach s u r v e y i n g

2.82 RB /B Suspended sediment

4 Ocean Beacn 8.9.78 ? I D 16 Surfzone mOrphodynamlcs

279 B 1 B~ i 6 Surfzone mOrphodynamics

5 Pearl Beach 8./7-4.bl BO ] R ]B S u r f z ~ e mOrphodynamics and s u r v e y i n g

]I.N1 15 1 R 1.6 Box c o r i n g and s u r v e y i n g

6 Palm Beach 1975 4 I B RB l.( Beach and o f f s h o r e surveys

IB7g-~o 10 L2 RB I B Surfzone ~ r p h o d y n a m l c s
1980-81 BO 1-Z - 1.6 Nearshore dynamics
1980 6 1 TB 1.6 Suspended sediment

7 N. A v a l o n Beach 1979 4 l R ).b Surfzoqe mor#hedynamics

B Narrabeen Beach 1976-82 95 ,5-3 R-D t 6 Surfzone morphodynamcs

19Bl-~B 50 ,5-2 RD 1.6 BOX coring
1981 82 4 ,5-3 16 Nearshore dynamics

9 C o ] l a r o y Beach 191B-B2 gB ,I~.5 R 16 Beach s u r v e y i n g

lO Fishermans Beach 1979-B2 24 .1-.5 R 1B Beach s u r v e y i n g

19~l 15 .3 R 1B BOX coring

II Dee Why Beach 1972 10 .5-2 RB 1.6 Beach surveying

1977 3 1.5 RB i.B Surfzone ~ r p h o d y n a m i c s

12 Cronulla Beach 1977 lO B-2 R BT l h Beach surveying

i977 5 i TB l.B Surfzone ~rphodynamlcs

13 Jibbon Beach 1976 iO .4 R 1.6 Beach surveyin 9

1976 5 .4 R 1.6 Surfzone ~ r p h o d y n a m l c s

14 Coledale Beach B.19 3 .5 R# 1.6 Surfzone ~rphodynamlcs

15 Werri Beach 2.79 3 .5 LT 1.6 Surfzone morphodynamics

3.B2 1 .5 LT 1.6 Burfzone morphodynamics

IB N. Seven M i l e 1919 82 4 .5-I.5 B l.B Surfzone morphodynamIcs

1980-82 12 .5-B O 1.6 Beach surveys

}l Seven Mile 198Z 3 1 BT l.B Surfzone morphodynamics

]gBo-mB 12 .5-2 RT } 6 Beach surveys
1981-82 30 1 BT 1.6 B. . . . . i n s (beach and . . . . . hare)
3,82 6 1 B~ 1.6 Suspended sediment
I~ Meroo Beach 1981-82 IO 1 LT 1.5 Surfzone morphodynamlcs
IO 1 LT 1.5 Suspended sediment

19 Kioloa Beach 1981 12 5-1.5 TB 1.6 Suspended sediment

20 Bracken Beach 197B-78 30 .5 R 1.6 Surfzone morphodynamics

21 Moruya Beach 1926-7g 50 B-l.5 RB 1.6 Surfzone ~rphodynamics

Beach surveys
2Z Eastern Beach B.81 I1 .5-2 BT 1.3 Surfzone morphodynamcs
5.81 2 .5 Z BT 1.2 Nearshore dynamics
5-1Z.81 Ih B-2 B~ 1.2 Beach - o f f s h o r e surveys
B.81 ~ i BT 1B BOx coring
5.~1 2 I Bl 12 Suspended sediment

Z3 East Victorian Coast IB.BI 35 .5 I 5 R-BT 12 Beach surveying and sediment sampling

24 S,E. o f South A u s t . 2,79 45 .B-4 R O 9 Beach s u r v e y i n 9

Coast 2.79 45 .5 4 RD 9 Sediment sampling

25 r~oIwa Beach l-2.dO 8 ~-S ~ 9 Surfzone norphodynamics

1-2.~0 12 ~-5 ~ 19 Beach nearshore surveys
I-2,80 3-5 O .g Sediment sampling

2B Cable Beach ll.BO 16 5-Z R&O 9,5 Surfzone morphodynamics

ll.BO 2 .5-2 R&O g.5 Nearshore dynamlcs
11.80 12 5-2 R&D BIB Suspended sediment
ll.gO 18 5 2 R & O 95 Beach - surveys

n Number o f e ~ H p r l m e n t a l r u r ~ ; Cor~g or ~ampl~s c o l l e c t e d , surveys conducted e t c

HB Modal brea~e, ~,~ve h e l q n t or rang~ d u r i n g ~xpe.r~ments

intensive experiments on all beaches, levelling transects were normally re-

peated on a daily basis. At less frequent intervals, surveys were extended off-
shore to depths o f 20--30 m by echo-sounding traverses.
Wave and current measurements from within and near the surf zone were
made using the field monitoring system described by Bradshaw et al. (1978).
This system consists of up to ten strain-gauge type pressure transducers
and twelve low inertia bidirectional duct-impellor flow meters. Sensors were
connected by cable to chart recording and multiplexing digital tape recording
facilities. Response characteristics of the sensors are described by Nielsen
98

and Cowell (1981). In most experiments, data from all sensors in an array
were logged simultaneously at intervals of 1 s (greater in some cases) over
run lengths of 30 min to 1 h or more. Raw data were corrected for frequency
response characteristics before spectral and statistical analyses were performed.

MORPHODYNAMIC STATES OF SURF ZONES AND BEACHES

Following our earlier papers (e.g. Wright et al., 1979a, b, 1982a, b; Wright,
1982), we use the concept of morphodynamic states to imply the complete
assemblages of depositional forms and coupled hydrodynamic process
signatures. The two extreme states previously described by Wright et al.
(1979a, b) and Wright (1981) are: (1) fully dissipative; and (2) highly reflec-
tive. Morphologically, these states correspond respectively to flat, shallow
beaches with relatively large subaqueous sand storage and to steep beaches
with small subaqueous sand storage. Morphodynamically, the two extremes
are distinguished on the basis of the surf-scaling parameter:
e = ab¢o ~ / ( g tan2~) (1)
(Guza and Inman, 1975) where a b is breaker amplitude, c~ is incident wave
radian frequency (2u/T; T = period), g is acceleration of gravity and ~ is
beach/surf zone gradient. Complete reflection can be expected when e <
1.0; however, Guza and Inman (1975) and Guza and Bowen (1977) note
that so long as e ~< 2.0--2.5 strong reflection will continue to permit strong
standing wave motion, surging breakers and resonance, particularly at sub-
harmonic frequencies. Such a situation defines the highly reflective extreme.
When e > 2.5 waves begin to plunge, dissipating energy and when e > 20
spilling breakers occur (e.g. Galvin, 1972). The surf zone widens and turbu-
lent dissipation of incident wave energy increases with increasing e.
In addition to the dissipative and reflective extremes, Wright et al. (1979a, b)
and Short (1979a, b) in similar b u t independent studies of the same environ-
ments recognized four intermediate states each of which possess both reflec-
tive and dissipative elements. The six c o m m o n l y occurring states (dissipative
and reflective extremes and four intermediate states) are shown in Fig.2
which is modified and updated and is intended to reconcile the taxonomic
discrepancies between our earlier (Short, 1979a, b; Wright et al., 1979a, b)
schemes. It must be pointed o u t that the data base which Fig.2 generalizes

m DISSIPATIVE
40O
OUTER BREAKER ZONE m DISSIPATIVE OOMAIH

300 .... ...... "'"" ..................... PA' V E

5 F LAT.CONC - UIGN ~ , "
'TROUGH' BEACH FACELo w FREQ. SPILL ING BREAKER~

100 ' ....... ~ ........ z5 VARIABLE U [ 4ES> ?1;~41i ':A"4', , ',(A~A"

! ii iii i il ! i i::ii!!!!ii! ~E:~.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
iii ii:i:i ::i:ii::: i:ii:::ii ii ..................
(TANI~=O,OI)
~ ...............................
~ .... ! m ,,, ,,, ~r n 2,',

so ~oo 15o 2oo 2~o 3o0 ~n

 99

INTERMEDIATE
m LONGSHORE BAR'TROUGH
3O0
STRAIGHT BAR ~ C R E S C E N T I C BAR REFLECTIVE IIISSIPATIVE
L IIOMAIH j+ I I O N A I M -
200 . . . . J .: ... m S E ~ LOW ~o T M " t . T E
3~PS) SURGING PLUNGHYG
, oo o-~..<'-'-- A__,..-.~_~__.~ _
REFLECTIVE." . DEEP
3 BEACH
0
TAN~ + 0.05 0.20
50 100 150 200 250 m

INTERMEDIATE
RHYTHMIC BAR AND BEACH (NORMALOR SHEWED) REFLECTIVE DISSIPATIVE
m NORMAL W A V E S OBLIQUE MODERATEDOMAIN DOMAIN
W A V E S ~> " 3:ivtE~ TA -E SURGING
t P L U N F~G N PLUNGING
G
•"-..+ GU Sp BREAKER i~%s BREAKER
200 . . . . . . . . . . . . -0 ~ ~ ~ ~ " "

• ~ PLUNGING SPILLING-PLUNGING

ME NT::::::
i:i::i:i:iiihiiiiii:i:i:i:!:i:i:i:!:i:i:!:i:i:i:H]Gi-i f i D E ~U'SPS:i:i:i:i. M ~ ~
"(CU~i;%"~'~V 6~'C0'R C;. k+EG'~::'~'U'@~'"'H'OR'~iS'i:!:i:I:! -3 / 50 i " "100
_ ~ ~ ~1 5J_
0 2O0::
L" m
TAN~=O I 0 - 0 . 2 0 TAN (9 = 0.01
INTERMEDIATE ~ ~- ~/¢m
T . N S , E R S E HHH ,H0 H., . . , L II, ,,,w,ll, m "'"~___ "~'~..~ll,,,,,,T,,, ..,,R
m NORMAL WAVES OBLIQUE WAVES! 3 MOIIEIINTICs'\ ~ . ~ . ~
A' ~
~ii' ~
LZ ': . ~' : ' : ~ ,,,~
, , ~ i '~X~':MHW
PLUNGING
200 . [ L;_ _ ,..~_ .~ ~ < ~ ~ A ~ E R ~ w
~ :.:~ ~ ~.. :-:::~:O~ I '..: ......

d, ~_~::~::~:~![ " ~ M : : ~ ] ! ~ : : ~ u ~ : : i ~ : : ~ i i : : ! II SSIPATIV[ OR IEFLECTiVI IIOMA M VAR ABLE

100 ~I~I= I " [ ~:'i:i:i]!::~'~ ' ~:~;~J~ RELICI ~/~ i IIISSIPATIVE ~IlOlAIM
RIP ~ ~ 3S C A R P ~ ~
~ ~ : : ::::~::: . ~ SURGNG IIOII[IIATE~+
:::::::: ::::: ::::::::::::::: ::::: ::::: ~(~P~;
:::: WIDE~ ~BREAKER MHW

::(CUSPS MAY OCCUR ON MEGA CUSP HORNS)':': .- 5 0 100 I~0 20CrX ~I

I N T E R M E D I A T E ,.~,~- NIGH TIDE REFLECTIVE

,RIDGE'RUNNEL OR LOW TIDE TERRACE m tOW[~ ~ . L O W TIIIE IliSSiPATiVE
m NORMAL WAVES OBLIQUE WAVES i ~ERATE~sPLUNG~
•...:;..~ow... BREAK&
G ~.w

200 I UlNI-RIP
+
|
i,,
RUNNEL|
io,
i
+, ~ ~ _ . LT:.[~'£ iR~ A Ct . . ~
OLD
A'

°" +++:.++.+++++++++++.~:~+E++++++~!++++~I~+++++++~
LllW~.LOWT,li, II,,,,,,,,,,
~ "+ ........ 3 MIIIIEIIATte,PLUNG'N~
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::~+:,!<'". ":' "':':"": +:;t~':~:" ~+~.~::::::::::::::: . ~ " " .+~+~= BREAKER MHW
02 B E RM ":::~
o :!::!:!:!:!:{:!:!.............. ~ - ~ - e ~ : : : : : : : i ] ~ , N , - R , p , RUN,~.2~...~......~..:V,:...~ . . . . e'
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :3 • ~ A + BA~'~". +AN , ~= 0 • O,
~{::::~::~:~::U:::~::ii~::::~::i::i::i::{i::~!iii::i::i::i::i::i::iii:i:::i~iii~i:i:i::::iii:i:~:iii:i:i:i:i:iiii~i. ~o ~oo ,~o

REFLECTIVE
- - ~-- REFLECTIVE DOMAIN
m ~ ~ ~ (m0, , LIIw .ii(I
200 WIDE HIGHtllWE'b ~tllW E+

f. t STEEP BEACH F.ACI~ { 3 B~S PSs~..... G '

I00 - [ - ~ B ERM~CRI~ST- " BREAKER
' " iiiR::!:M!ii#il]ii!:i:i:!i! i STEEP [ ".~-~'EP LINEAR LOW-GRADIENT
::~!i~i~:~:N~:~ : TANIA
~BE
C.H
. .F
.ACE
~
.~
C
'-E" ~ ~ E A RSHORE PROFILE

°I...................................i +o +o +
Fig.2. Plan and profile c o n f i g u r a t i o n s o f the six major b e a c h states.
100

has increased five fold since the original articles by Wright et al. (1979a, b)
and Short (1979a, b) were written.
The most visibly apparent differences between the different states shown
in Fig.2 are, of course, morphological. However, from extensive spectral
analyses of a large number of field experimental results over each of the
states (Table I), it is apparent that distinct process signatures, expressing
the relative velocities of different modes of fluid motion, accompany the
characteristic morphologies.
Although wind-generated waves are the main source of the energy which
drives beach changes, the complex processes, which operate in natural surf
zones and involve various combinations of dissipation and reflection, can
lead to the transfer of incident wave energy to other modes of fluid motion,
some of which may become dominant over the waves themselves. For dis-
cussion purposes, we may group the important modes of motion into four
broad categories: (1) oscillatory flows corresponding directly to the incident
waves; (2) oscillatory or quasi-oscillatory flows corresponding to standing
waves and edge waves at frequencies lower than incident wave frequency;
(3) net circulations generated b y wave energy dissipation; and (4) non-wave
generated currents.
The first category includes the sediment-agitating oscillations, in the
frequency band of the deep water incident waves, due to both broken and
unbroken waves. Oscillations in the second category are standing in the
shore-normal dimension over a wide range of frequencies; they may be
either " l e a k y " m o d e standing waves or trapped edge waves. Included are the
subharmonic edge waves (at twice the incident wave period) which are
readily excited on reflective beaches (Guza and Davis, 1974), long-period
infragravity "surf b e a t " at periods on the order of 1 to 3 min (e.g. Huntley
et al., 1981; Wright et al., 1982a) and higher frequency infragravity motions
at periods of 30--50 s (Wright, 1982). The important wave generated cur-
rents are longshore currents, rip currents and rip "feeder" currents. The
fourth category includes tidal currents and currents generated by local wind
shear. Our experiments on the different beach states show that the relative
velocities of these different modes of fluid motion are strongly dependent
on the state that the beach is in at the time and on local environmental con-
ditions. Each of these modes of motion is identifiable by its frequency.
Standing oscillations are recognized by a quadrature (90 °) phase angle be-
tween surface elevation (,7) and shore-normal current u ; and net mean currents
are manifest as long (30--60 min) time-averaged velocities. Hence, we have
digested spectral and cross spectral analyses of different experiments into
simplified histograms which summarize process signatures in terms of the
relative velocities of different modes of motion. We will n o w describe the
complete assemblages of morphology plus associated process signature which
characterize each state.
 101

The highly dissipative assemblage

The dissipative extreme is analogous to the " s t o r m " or "winter" profile

of seasonally varying beaches; it corresponds to the " T y p e 1" beach discus-
sed b y Wright et al. (1979a) and to Short's (1979a, b) "Stage 6". To avoid
further confusion, we will simply refer to it as "dissipative". Two beaches --
Seven Mile Beach on the Australian east coast south of Sydney (Wright,
1982) and Goolwa Beach in South Australia (Wright et al., 1982a) -- provide
examples of long, fully dissipative beaches. Both beaches are sinks for fine
sands and exhibit very low gradients (tan ~ = 0.01--0.02) and wide, multi-
barred surf zones (Fig.2a). Longshore rhythms or significant irregularities
are rarely present. During the experiments, significant breaker heights were
about 2 m and 3 m on Seven Mile Beach and Goolwa Beach respectively;
the respective wave periods were 10 s and 12--15 s. The surf scaling para-
meter e (eq. 1) was on the order o f 30 on Seven Mile Beach and 250--400
on Goolwa Beach. On b o t h beaches, waves broke b y spilling and dissipated
progressively as they crossed the wide surf zone to become very small at
the beach face.
Figure 3 describes the "process signature" observed in the Goolwa surf
zone. The bar graphs indicate the relative amplitudes of near-bottom flows
associated with the incident waves, the surf beat, and the net transports.
The bars are expressed in dimensionless form relative to the observed inci-

GOOLWA,S.A. JAN-FEB,1980.

2° ~ C B A

15 Uin Vin
Vin

I'C U Us

~0.5
Vi n

Us INCIDENT WAVE
DISSIPATIVE SURFZONE U~n.V,° - INFRAGRAVITY
~ U,VL - MEAN

-~ J i i i I I i i i i i i i I I i l i r i
"50 O 50 IOO 150 m

Fig.3. Process signature across a high energy dissipative surf zone, G o o l w a , S.A. The bar
graphs indicate the relative magnitudes (scaled relative to the significant velocity ampli-
tude u s of the incident waves) us, velocity amplitudes of shore normal and shore parallel
flows at infragravity frequencies Uin, Vin; and ~,61 net time averaged shore normal and
alongshore currents.
102

dent wave related velocities, which are assigned a value of 1. The pronounced
shoreward growth of flows due to infragravity oscillations and the strong
dominance of those flows in the inner surf zone are the most important
features of the graph. This is typical of dissipative beaches in general (e.g.
Seven Mile Beach). Phase angles of ~1 between 77 and u for the infragravity
frequencies on Seven Mile Beach and Goolwa Beach indicate that oscil-
lations at those frequencies are consistently standing {Wright, 1982; Wright
et al., 1982a). At Goolwa, the velocity amplitudes of u corresponding
to the infragravity "surf beat" were on the order of 1.2 to 1.5 m s-1 accom-
panying surf beat heights of roughly 1 m on the beach {Wright et al., 1982a).
Recent studies on Torrey Pines Beach (California) by Guza and Thornton
(1982) also show t h a t surf-beat dominates runup and that it increases
in amplitude linearly with increasing breaker amplitude. The likelihood
that infragravity oscillations are edge waves has been discussed by Holman
(1981) and Huntley et al. (1981) and for the specific case of Goolwa by
Wright et al. (1982a). Standing oscillations at subharmonic frequencies
are consistently absent from dissipative surf zones.
The net time-averaged flows at Goolwa were weak relative to the surf-beat
motions. There were no spatially persistent rips; vertical segregation of
shoreward (upper layer) versus seaward (bottom layer) transports generally
characterized the shore-normal components of circulation {Wright et al.,
1982a). It should be pointed out, however, that on strongly embayed and
headland bounded beaches such as those near Sydney, strong, large scale
rips frequently accompany the dissipative conditions which occur during
storms {Short, 1979a; Wright et al., 1979b).

The highly reflective assemblage

The fully reflective beach state (Fig.2f) lacks any dissipative elements.
Breakers are exclusively surging to collapsing and turbulence related to the
"breaking" process is confined to the zone of high runup on the beach
face. Immediately beneath the steep, usually linear, beach face is a pro-
nounced step composed of coarser material. The step depth increases with
increasing wave height. Seaward of the step the bed slope decreases ap-
preciably. Pronounced and highly rhythmic beach cusps are often present
in the swash zone; however, under low energy conditions, the beach is often
capped by a high straight-crested berm. This beach state corresponds to
" T y p e 6" of Wright et al. (1979a, b) and to "Stage 1" of Short (1979a, b);
it is also the fully accreted or " s u m m e r profile" end member.
Most of our experiments on reflective beach processes were carried out
on Bracken Beach south of Sydney (Fig.l). This beach is similar in morphol-
ogy and behavior to other reflective beaches in the region. The persistently
low e values (e = 1--3) which characterize these beaches and define their
reflective state are consequences of a combination of low refraction coef-
ficients related to the embayed nature of the compartments and steep beach
faces (tan ~ = 0.1--0.15), c o m m o n l y but not consistently associated with
 103

coarse material. Waves reach the beach face w i t h o u t breaking and surge
strongly up the beach or collapse over the step.
Figure 4 shows the typical reflective beach process signature. In contrast
to the dissipative extreme, most of the energy near the reflective beach is at
incident wave frequency and at the first subharmonic of the incident waves
(twice the incident wave period). Infragravity oscillations are very weak or
negligible in most of our data from reflective beaches and are always sub-
ordinate to incident waves. The subharmonic oscillations are invariably
standing as indicated by the 90 ° (½~) phase angle between ~ and u (Wright,
1982). An interpretation of the subharmonic oscillations as edge waves
standing alongshore is consistent with the conclusions of Guza and Davis
(1974) that subharmonic edge waves of mode zero are the most easily
excited and can exist under highly reflective conditions. Consistent with
the conclusions of Inman and Guza (1982), our data indicate that the well-
developed beach cusps which are normally present on reflective beaches
are spaced at one half the predicted length of the zero-mode subharmonic
edge waves. Under low energy conditions subharmonic oscillations tend to
be of low amplitude relative to incident wave amplitude. However, under
conditions of moderate energy long-period swell, the subharmonic oscilla-
tions attain amplitudes greater than those of the incident waves at the beach
producing accentuated runup w h i c h ' m a y overtop the berm crest and initiate
subaerial beach cut.

Intermediate assemblages

The four intermediate states shown in Fig.2 all possess coexisting dis-
sipative and reflective elements and e varies significantly across the profile
or alongshore. These states exhibit the most complex morphologies and

REFLECTIVE
q5 ~- A B C
]
I0 Us usub ~

Us - INCIDENT WAVE ORBITAL VELOCITY

Usub SUBHARMONIC
3 ~ Uin - INFRAGRAVITY
~,SURGING BREAKERS (i?'~ ~T r'llPP~:MTq
2 ~ H I G H RUNUP ,.. - N. . . . . . . . . . . . .
I BEAC
SH
TEE
FP
ACE ~ ~'~. /-"--.,, //-'--..., .~
0
TAN ~ ~-0.10 ~",...j ~ ~ "
-~ ¢=Ib-25 \.A
-2 ~ EP B

-4 I I I I I [ I I I i I I I I I I I I
50 0 50 I00 metres

Fig.4. Typical process signature of reflective beaches (based on data from Bracken Beach).
104

process signatures. The longshore bar-trough state (Fig.2b) and the rhythmic
bar and beach state (Fig.2c) can develop from an antecedent dissipative
profile in an accretionary sequence. Bar-trough relief is much higher and the
beach face much steeper than on the dissipative profile. The bar is the locus
of initial wave breaking and is moderately dissipative. In contrast to the
dissipative beach, the broken waves cease to decay after passing over the
steep inner edge of the bar and reform within the deep (2--3 m) trough.
The steepened beach face is locally reflective with local e c o m m o n l y around
2. Low-steepness waves surge up the beach face; steeper waves experience a
violent collapsing or plunging shore break near the base of the beach face
followed by an explosive surge up the subaerial beach. In both cases, runup
is relatively high and cusps are often present in the swash zone. The dis-
tinguishing features of the rhythmic bar and beach state are the rhythmic
longshore undulations of the crescentic bar and of the subaerial beach. Spac-
ings between crescentic bar horns or shoreline protrusions are typically on
the order of 100--300 m. Weak to moderate rip circulation, similar to that
shown in Fig.2c, prevails and the rips are persistent in location.
The composite plan-view process signature diagram shown in Fig.5 is
typical of the longshore bar-trough and rhythmic bar and beach states in

EASTERN BEACH,GiPPSLAND,VIC. MAY,19SI

o (~) o~ BREAK H b, tO - I 5rn
m200- /~, /~ f-,m s / xI ~ ~ ~ ~o9/ , / x ~ U~ A tl

:i i I l l I:i;':':i';':" i " " " l:':':'; ....... :':':':i* ===================== BAR .:..:.' "'~'.1~:.:'; • U,n Vln ~° 5

150- ~ ' ~' f='Ir~"~ / RIP ~ f' ~C I 1-==11 1"~'~7 Io

, i TROUGH B 1
)/ N ,°
T-------"-"-~/' - ZZ-T -,:~ -~t~ ~ ~
t . ID c
/E"BA+ME"q I . ~
4 (Vl ~.

H E' . "~ G E3 "~ E E~ D

Io Us LI '" Lls U~ E4 F Llr.~Llsub " L~ ~ Jl o

Fig.5. Net circulation pattern and process signature observedin the presenceof rhythmic
bar and beach topography, Eastern Beach, Oippsland. The broad arrows indicate general
c i r c u l a t i o n based o n d y e releases. F i n e arrows i n d i c a t e c u r r e n t speeds a n d d i r e c t i o n s
m e a s u r e d at specific points. As in Figs.3 a n d 4, t h e bar graphs i n d i c a t e t h e m a g n i t u d e s
relative to i n c i d e n t wave o r b i t a l velocities o f d i f f e r e n t m o d e s of h o r i z o n t a l c u r r e n t
m o t i o n : Usu b s h o r e n o r m a l c u r r e n t s at s u b h a r m o n i c f r e q u e n c y ; Gin , Yin s h o r e n o r m a l
a n d s h o r e parallel c u r r e n t s at infragravity f r e q u e n c i e s , V = net t i m e averaged velocities.
 105

general but is based specifically on several experimental runs from Eastern

Beach, Gippsland (Wright et al., 1982c). In addition to the histograms
showing the relative magnitudes of the different modes of motion, the
general surf zone circulation pattern and time averaged current directions
are also shown. The incident waves dominate throughout the surf zone but
subharmonic and infragravity oscillations become pronounced in certain
regions. Specifically, subharmonic oscillations increase in amplitude with
proximity to the beach whereas the effects of infragravity motions are most
pronounced in the vicinity of the relatively weak rip. The infragravity stand-
ing waves in the Eastern Beach surf zone occurred at m u c h higher frequencies
and were of considerably lower amplitude than those c o m m o n l y observed
in highly dissipative surf zones (e.g. Wright et al., 1982c). Typical periods of
the infragravity oscillations at Eastern Beach were on the order of 35--60 s
(0.028--0.017 Hz). These frequencies are very similar to those observed in
the presence of bar-trough topographies elsewhere (e.g. Moruya Beach,
N.S.W.: Chappell and Wright, 1979; Wright et al., 1979a; Wright, 1982).
As originally suggested by Wright et al. (1979a), it appears likely that these
low amplitude, intermediate frequency infragravity oscillations are edge
waves which coexist with sub-harmonic edge waves in the presence of pro-
nounced bar-trough topography. The likely dimensions of the two edge wave
types, predicted on the basis of observed frequencies and beach slopes at
Eastern Beach are shown in Fig.6.
The transverse-bar and rip state (Fig.2d) most c o m m o n l y develops in
accretionary sequences when the horns of preexisting crescentic bars weld to
the beach. This results in relatively dissipative transverse bars (or "mega-
cusps") alternating with relatively reflective and deeper embayments occupied
by strong rips. The strongest rip circulations (for any given breaker height)
occur with this state. Figure 7 shows the process signature associated with
transverse bar and rip topography based on experiments conducted on Palm
Beach (Fig.l). The dominant feature is the extremely strong rip circulation.
Although these currents remain persistently strong and unidirectional, t h e y
alternately strengthen and slacken at infragravity frequencies. On this t y p e
of topography, rip current speeds are typically on the same order as the
breaking incident wave orbital velocities. The strong rips, localized by the
rhythmic topography related largely to antecedent processes, can cause
significant scour of rip embayments, even when the adjacent transverse bars
are accreting (Short, 1979a; Short and Wright, 1981; Wright, 1981).
A moderately dissipative and flat accumulation of sand at or just below
low tide level, backed by a steeper beach face which is reflective at high
tide characterizes the ridge and runnel~low tide terrace state (Fig.2e). Small,
weak and irregularly spaced rips related to the atrophying of preexisting rips
may be present. As on macrotidal beaches (e.g. Wright et al., 1982b) varia-
tions in reflectivity versus dissipativeness are largely related to tidal phase:
the beach is typically dissipative at low tide and reflective at high tide. At
high tide the process signature is similar to that of reflective beaches. At
low tide incident waves and their dissipative bores are dominant although
weak infragravity oscillations are usually present.
106

ODE 0

I0
0
I , i i i
N %N INN I~N ?AN 9~A ~,NN (m~ NFFQNN#F

)El

03
C
0 50 I(~0 150 2()0 2,50 300 (m) OFFSHORE
Fig.6. I n s t a n t a n e o u s w a t e r surface t o p o g r a p h i e s associated with (A) a s u b h a r m o n i c , n = 0
edge wave, and (B) an infragravity, n -- 1 edge wave. It is likely t h a t these t w o edge waves
m a y c o e x i s t in the p r e s e n c e o f bar-trough t o p o g r a p h y .

MODAL BEACH STATE, TEMPORAL VARIABILITY AND ENVIRONMENTAL

CONDITIONS

The m o r p h o l o g y of a beach at any particular time is a function of its

sediment characteristics, immediate and antecedent wave, tide and wind
conditions, and the ant ecedent beach state. However, over the long t erm a
given beach will tend to exhibit a modal or most frequent l y recurrent state
which depends on environment. The forcing wave climate can, in turn, be
described in terms o f the modal or most f r equent l y occurring wave condition
a ro u n d which a spread of higher or lower waves may prevail. The beach in
response to th e wave climate consists of a modal beach t y p e det erm i ned by
the modal wave conditions, and a range of beach morphologies d e p e n d e n t
on the range o f the wave conditions. Associated with the temporal variations
o f beach state around the modal state, is corresponding variation in shore-
line position and in profile shape. The range of this variability defines the
mobility o f a beach. Because the same environmental factors which deter-
mine th e modal state of a beach also de t e r m i ne its variability, there is a close
association between modal beach state and beach mobility. We must now
address some f u n dam e nt a l questions concerning prediction of beach and surf
 107

PALM BEACH,N.S.W., FEB 1980.

A B (~) C

~0'5 ~
i I I t:] Us - INCIDENT WAVES
[Jin*Vin- INFRAGRAVITY
Vin

m
| =REA~ JF r - ~- - . \ ~

401. " ~ ~ ' i ~ i :::::::::::::::::~:i:~:i:i:~ [ ......::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

~:~ : i i~i~i~i!~!!~.'.'~ -~ /..~ -~i~ii!~!!i!
::" .:: ::~:i:i:i:....... : : ~ : :--~ -/~ ~ :::::::::::::::::::::::
I ~ ~ ~ ==================================================
= o•~~ . . . . . " ~ i:'::i:!:::~..~.
~:-:: ~::~!~::~::~i?:~::~::~::!~::~::::~::~:~:~:;~
..~!~!~ _ ~ . ~ ~ i -"
~ GENERAL CIRCULATION :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::.'::O:::
t ~ BASED ON DYE , N J E C T I ~

I ~ .-- LOCAL TIME-AVERAGED o . . . . Ol5 =

0 VELOCITY (V) m sec-I "

20 40 60 80 IO0 m

Fig.7. Process signature associated with transverse bar and rip topography (Palm Beach,
N.S.W., February 1980). Note the strong rips and rip feeder currents.

zone conditions: What environmental factors determine the modal beach

state and probable temporal range of beach states? What roles do inner
shelf/nearshore processes play in controlling modal beach state and beach
state variability? What relationship, if any, is there between modal state
and profile mobility?

Modal state and temporal variability o f states

From the r e p e a t e d observations and surveys of specific beaches (e.g.

Narabeen, Short, 1979a, b, 1981), it was shown previously that beach state
varied largely with wave height when sediment size remained the same. For
example, intermediate states are favored b y breaker heights of 1--2.5 m
when the beaches are composed of medium sand (Short, 1981). Persistently
high waves and an abundance of fine sand result in maintaining the fully
dissipative state. Reflective beaches occur under low swell conditions or in
sheltered compartments and are often associated with coarse material. It
has long been known that beach profiles are controlled b y breaker height
and period and grain size and we do not propose to reconfirm old ideas.
However, we are concerned here with beach state which is not quite the
same thing as the profile although the t w o are certainly related. The point is
that beach state is clearly a function of breaker height and period and sedi-
ment size; we wish to know more exactly what the relationship is.
108

In order to place our empirical knowledge in a more universal frame, we

must employ some dimensionless parameter, ~2, which incorporates both
wave characteristics and sediment characteristics. It makes intuitive sense to
follow Dean (1973) and Dalrymple and Thompson (1977) and use a para-
meter of the form:
~2 = Hb/(~U sT ) (2)
in which H b is breaker height, ~vs is sediment fall velocity, and T is wave
period. There are, of course, other alternatives but we chose ~2 as given by
eq. 2 because it includes T which our experience indicates to be important.
Modal beach state should express the modal value of ~2, whereas the tem-
poral variability of beach state should express the temporal variability of ~ .
Initially, it is worthwhile to identify the threshold values of ~2 which
separate the reflective and dissipative extremes from the intermediate
states. We interrogated all of our available data with two questions:
(1) How large can ~2 become before a previously reflective beach erodes
to become intermediate?
(2) How low can ~2 drop before fully dissipative conditions are replaced
by intermediate states?
A value of about 1 defines the reflective/intermediate threshold: ~2 must
exceed 1 before a reflective beach is transformed into an intermediate
beach. Of course, because an adjustment time is required for a beach to
change its state, an abrupt drop of ~2 to below the threshold will not be
immediately accompanied by a change to the reflective state. But if the
beach is reflective to begin with, it will not change state so long as ~2 ~< 1;
if it is not already reflective, it will move toward the reflective state. Notably
Dalrymple and Thompson {1977) also found ~ ~ 1 to be the threshold
between " n o r m a l " accreted (reflective) profiles and " b a r r e d " profiles. At
the other end, ~2 ~ 6 determines the threshold between intermediate and
dissipative conditions. Although fairly large variations in ~2 at values greater
than 6 can occur (for dissipative states ~2 typically ranges from 6 to 30),
the morphodynamic state does not change so long as ~2 remains above 6.
The surf zone width simply expands with increasing ~ and contracts with
decreasing ~2. However, once ~ drops below about 6, the intermediate long-
shore bar-trough state quickly replaces the fully dissipative state. Inter-
mediate states result when 1 < ~2 < 6. Within this relatively narrow band,
the greatest a m o u n t of temporal variation occurs.
Figure 8 shows percent frequency distributions of ~2 for different beaches,
computed from available long-term wave statistics, predicted shallow water
modifications by shoaling, refraction and friction, and local sediment
characteristics, together with corresponding frequency histograms of beach
state. Figure 9 shows plots of modal ~2 against modal beach state and the
average temporal ranges of ~ and state. Figures 8 and 9 illustrate that
when the modal value of ~2 is above 6, the modal state of the beach is fully
dissipative, when the modal value of ~2 is below 1, the modal beach state is
reflective, and when the mode of ~2 lies between 1 and 6, the modal beach
 109

I!!i~~!:~l INTERMEDIATE ,l...... DI$$1PAT/VEI

HblWs

0 ~ 20
0"1 I 6 20"1 6 20 ~ " ' ~ 20 ........ 20 ~ 6 20 ~ 20 ...... 6 200
FISHERMAN'S COLLAROY NARRABEEN EASTERN MID SEVEN NTH SEVEN GOOLWA
% BEACH BEACH BEACH B E A C H MILE BEACH MILE BEACH BEACH %

Lr * 60

otL T
20
,o0
O' "" RB ,D L~ ] I ~ R R
BR BT BT R LT BR LT RB
R REFLECTIVE B EACH STATE RB RHYTHMIC BAR B BEACH
LT LOWTIDETERRACE/RIDGER
' UNNEL * MODALSTATE BT LONGSHOREBAR-TROUGH
BR TRANSVERSE BAR & RIP D DISSIPATIVE

Fig.8. F r e q u e n c y distribution o f ~2 = Hb/([vsT) and c o r r e s p o n d i n g p e r c e n t a g e occur-

r e n c e o f b e a c h states for seven beaches.

REFLECTIVEIINTERMEDI
J DISASITE
PATIVE
thr~hold t~rreshold
DISSIPATIVE [ ~ *
bar-tmu(jh @ ModalSlate
.~ rhythmic BEACH KEY
bar B beach G Goolwa-
. . . . NS Nth SevenMile

- -- M Moruyo
ridge-runnel N Narrabeen
low-tide terrace p Palm
~ ~ i ,~,!,~ L C
B Colloroy--
Bracken
REFLECTIVE F Fishermon's
i J~LL
0-2 0.5 , 2 34s~ lo 2'0 ~o
Hb/~sT

Fig. 9. Modal beach state and t e m p o r a l variability o f beach state as f u n c t i o n s o f the

m o d a l values and t e m p o r a l variability o f Hb/(FvsT). H o r i z o n t a l arrows indicate average
temporal range o f Hb/(WsT); vertical arrows indicate average t e m p o r a l range o f beach
state.
110

state corresponds to one of the intermediate states. In a general sense, large

temporal variations in ~2 are accompanied by large variations in state. How-
ever, when the variations in ~2, no matter how large, take place solely within
the domains of ~2 > 6 or ~2 < 1, no corresponding variations in state result.
The greatest temporal ranges of beach state are associated with large temporal
variations in ~2 which are centered about modal values intermediate between
1 and 6.

Effects of nearshore wave modification

The modal value and temporal variability of ~2 depend on H b which, in

turn, depends on the deepwater wave climate and on nearshore modification
of waves by shoaling, refraction and friction. The effects of shoaling and
refraction are widely appreciated and require no reiteration here. However,
recent developments in understanding the processes of frictional dissipation
(e.g. Jonsson, 1967; Swart, 1974; Jonsson and Carlsen, 1976; Nielsen, 1982;
Wright et al., 1982c) indicate that this process is probably much more con-
sequential than previously believed. It is now apparent that the roughness
and gradient of the inner continental shelf critically affect not only the
modal breaker height but also the frequency distribution of H b.
The local rate of decrease of wave energy flux, P, is proportional to the
cube of the maximum orbital velocity, ureax and to the friction factor, fw
in accordance with:
dP 2
d-~ = --TUmax - 37rPfw U3max (3)

where r is shear stress. Since the wave height reduction takes place progres-
sively, the total reduction between deepwater and the break point depends
on the integral over the distance between the point at which friction begins
and the break point and is thus inversely proportional to the inner shelf/
nearshore gradient. In earlier studies (e.g. Bretschneider and Reid, 1954;
Wright, 1976) fw was considered to be s m a l l - on the order of 0.01--0.05.
However, Swart (1974) showed that fw depends on the ratio of roughness
length, ~ to orbital semi-excursion, a s. Furthermore, Nielsen et al. (1982;
see also discussion in Wright et al., 1982c) have shown that ~ is a function
of grain size and ripple height and can be large when the bed is rippled and
mobile.
It is now clear that when the bed is composed of coarse material and is
rippled, fw, can attain values of 0.30 or greater. As a result, larger reductions
in wave height can be expected over rough, low gradient profiles. In addi-
tion, since frictional dissipation is non-linear and increases with the cube of
the wave height, the large waves will experience more attenuation than the
small ones. This can have the effect of reducing not only the modal wave
height but also temporal variability. Details concerning the estimation of ~,
fw, and total dissipation may be found in Wright et al. (1982c) and in Nielsen
(1982).
 111

The roles of nearshore gradient and roughness are illustrated by a compari-

son of Narrabeen Beach with Eastern Beach. As shown in Fig.9, the modal
values and modal state of the two beaches are similar. However, whereas
Narrabeen exhibits a wide range of ~2 and the full possible range of beach
states, the variability of ~2 and state on Eastern Beach are confined to narrow
intermediate bands. The variability of deepwater wave conditions is broad
in both cases; the differences are related to differences in nearshore fric-
tional dissipation. Figure 10 shows the nearshore profiles fronting the t w o
beaches together with the probability distributions of deepwater wave heights
H . and breaker height H b.
The Narrabeen profile is steep and narrow while the Eastern Beach profile

1.0 1.0 t
P ( Hb) _ BREAKER p(H.) DEEPWATER
0-5 / ' ~ L G H__T 05 I ~ GHT

I 2 3 4 5 I 2 3 4 5
0 Hb(m) H~(m)

5 ~ NARRABEENBEACH,N.S.W.
,o 'b)~. Nearshore Profile

h(m)252015 - ~ , . ~

I I I
30 500 " I000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500
X DISTANCE SEAWARD (melres}

0t A
0"5 II~//_~...
P(Hb) ~,~BREAKER
HEIGHT,",~"......p(H.)05 ~DEEPWATER 0t ,

0
I 2
Hb(m)
3 4 5 I 2 3
H~(m)
4 5
5~ EASTERN BEACH,GIPPSLAND,VIC.
I0
<;~,,~, Neorshore Profile

,5 % ÷ U ~ 5 2 0.25

25
30 I I
500 I0;0 1500' 20'00 2500 30;0 35~00
X DISTANCE SEAWARD (melres)

Fig.10. Nearshore profiles fronting Narrabeen Beach and Eastern Beach together with
probability distributions of deepwater height and breaker heights after modification by
shoaling, refraction and friction.
112

possesses a very wide, low gradient plain between the 15--20 m depth
contours. In addition, the Narrabeen profile is composed of fine to medium
sand with only small ripples normally present and hence has a small rough-
ness. Coarse sand and gravel and wave ripples on the order of 10 cm high
mantle the low gradient plain fronting Eastern Beach, producing a very
rough surface (Wright et al., 1982c). Accordingly, the friction factor, fw,
associated with Narrabeen Beach and Eastern Beach have respective esti-
mated values of 0.09 and 0.25. Much more frictional dissipation takes place
seaward of Eastern Beach. The effects are evident from the probability
distributions of H b. In the Narrabeen case, shoaling approximately balances
the small amount of dissipation so that the probability distribution of breaker
height remains very close to that of the deepwater height. For Eastern Beach,
however, we see not only a significant reduction in modal breaker height,
but more importantly an appreciable narrowing of the temporal variation of
Hb: Although H~ may frequently exceed 4 or 5 m, we expect H b rarely to
exceed 2 m. Hence, Eastern Beach rarely attains the fully dissipative state
(Wright et al., 1982c).

Profile mobility in relation to modal state

We might expect that when the temporal variability of beach state is high,
the mobility of the associated beach and surf zone profiles will also be high.
This is the case. As indicated by Figs.8 and 9, intermediate modal states
are typically related to fairly large variabilities of state. In addition, when
beach state is intermediate, considerable change in the absolute profile
can take place without the state changing. There is thus a relationship,
albeit a causally complicated one, between profile mobility and modal state
{Wright and Short, 1983).
Figure 11 shows the profile envelopes of temporal variation, or "sweep
zones" of several beaches together with bar graphs indicating the corres-
ponding modal states and state variability. Low temporal variability of the
beach and surf zone profile is associated with both modally reflective and
modally dissipative beaches. In the reflective case, berm heights and step
depth vary with changes in breaker heights, b u t beach gradient changes little
and the beach advances and retreats over a narrow horizontal distance.
Increases and decreases in breaker height over modally dissipative beaches
cause widening and contraction of the surf zone width and may respectively
cause backshore scarping and accretion. However, the horizontal range of
shoreline position and vertical range of changing sand surface elevations are
small. The low temporal variability of the reflective and dissipative extremes
is paralleled by low spatial variability alongshore (Short and Hesp, 1982).
Intermediate beaches are spatially and temporally the most dynamic
beach forms. With their characteristic rip circulation, dynamic bar forms,
abundant surf zone and beach sediment and moderate waves, they can under-
go rapid changes as wave height fluctuates causing rapid reversals in onshore--
offshore and alongshore sediment transport. As one might expect considering
 113

M %
: , ~.Tio0
2~ " ~ GOOLWA -18 MTHS i. D~ BO

o,ss,.. TiVE o _,_ . . . . II°o_

2 - ~ NORTH S[VEN MILE " t'~ ~RB 0

l ~ - Z3 Mills -5o% i
o
'l ~ l D SEVENMILE - 2~TNS ~"'~
o! . . . . . . . -,,~., ,~LW

5 ~50O/o ~ 4
4 i "~1

2
1
INTERMEDIATE O MLW i 1 2 ~ ] i

MLW ~50% "

- BRRB

32 ~ R: BRRB I~0iT~l.
T 1 ~ 80];
REFLECTIVE 0 -, ,MLW- 50%
-1 FISHERMAN'S 26MTHS
- 40]~
.2 20

0 20 60 i00 140 ,80 220

BR BT
I)ISTANCE SEAWARD(METRES)

Fig.11. Beachprofile mobility in relation to modalbeachstate and state variability.

the complex process signatures of these states, the mobility of modally

intermediate states is higher than that of either of the two extremes (Short
and Hesp, 1982).
Bar and surf zone features are particularly mobile on both longshore bar-
trough and rhythmic bar and beach topographies. However, the straight,
steep subaerial beaches of the longshore bar-trough state, pa~iaUy shel-
tered by the offshore bar, normally exhibit only low to moderate variability
(e.g. Wright et al., 1982c). In contrast, the inherent spatial (longshore)
variability of the rhythmic bar and beach states combines with the high
temporal variability of the bar producing high mobility of both the bar and
the beach face. In the case of the low-tide terrace/ridge and runnel state, the
close proximity between the "bar" and the beach face permits rapid exchange
of sand leading to moderate to high temporal variability.
114

Frequency-response, equilibrium and rate of change

Figures 8, 9 and 11 cannot, of course, convey the full story concerning

the temporal variability of beach state or profile. One reason for this relates
to the frequency-response characteristics of beach and surf zone morpho-
dynamics. Quite simply, the time required for the beach and surf zone
to evolve from one equilibrium state to another will be proportional to the
mass of sediment needing to be redistributed and inversely proportional to
the available energy. If H b changes t o o rapidly the full beach response will
not result. Furthermore, response to low energy events will be slower than
response to high energy events. For any given energy level, the rate of change
in state, profile or other morphodynamic parameter should be greatest when
the departure from the equilibrium state is largest and should decrease as
equilibrium is approached. These concepts are illustrated by Fig.12.
It is relatively axiomatic to state that morphodynamic changes result
from gradients in sediment transport. When the divergence of sediment
transport is zero everywhere, the time derivative of state, beach slope, or
shoreline position, etc., will also be zero and equilibrium will exist. Each of
the extreme and intermediate states may exist as the equilibrium state in
association with an appropriate set of conditions, ~2. (In this context, how-
ever, the correct form of ~2 may be something other than Hb/(ffv~T). } We can
thus conceive o f an equilibrium curve of the sort shown in Fig.12. When the

-~-oc
ds [.(~. _ j~.e(S)] f,L
SLOW,~ {> FAST

0"5 I 2 6 I0 20
LOW ~ HIGH
ENERGY ENERGY
S = BEACH STATE or p or ?
fL= Hb/wsT or ?

Fig.12. Conceptual diagram illustrating some relationships b e t w e e n m o r p h o d y n a m i c

equilibrium, relative energy, and relative rates of erosion or accretion. A r r o w lengths
represent relative rates of change, ds/dt. ~2e(S ) is the equilibrium value o f ~ for a given
state (s).
 115

instantaneous conditions depart appreciably from this curve and when the
energy is high, the rate of change, ds/dt, should be large.
The maximum range of temporal variability will be inversely proportional
to the rate at which ~2 changes. That is, if ~2 oscillates over short periods of
time, the full range of projected equilibrium adjustments will not be at-
mined. On the east coast of Australia, high energy storm events can cause a
shift of beach state from reflective or intermediate to dissipative in a matter
o f days because the energy is high. The return to reflective conditions under
low energy can require weeks or months or longer (e.g. Short, 1979a). In
environments where the dominant variation in wave height corresponds to
an annual cycle of change (e.g. high storm waves in winter, low swell in
summer), the full sweep from a dissipative "winter" profile to a reflective
" s u m m e r " profile m a y be expected. Such a model does n o t apply to the
environments of eastern Australia and probably does not apply to many
other parts of the world.
Spectral analyses of 11 yrs of dally mean deep-water wave height (wave
rider data) from offshore of Sydney, shows that only 5% of the variance in
wave heights is associated with the annual cycle. An equal a m o u n t corre-
sponds to a biennial cycle. Most of the variance (55%) takes place in associa-
tion with cycles less than 1 month in duration. In the case of Eastern Beach
in the storm wave environment o f Bass Strait, the average interval separating
occasions of waves greater than 2 m is only a b o u t 3 days (Wright et al.,
1982c). The waves there do not remain small long enough for the reflective
state to develop. In addition, large breaker heights are precluded b y near-
shore frictional dissipation so that the range of intermediate states remains
narrow.
What is n o w required is to quantify more explicitly the equilibrium curve
and rates of change, illustrated loosely in Fig.12. When this is done, short-
term predictability of beach behavior will be at hand. Analyses of our long-
term time series of beach state, beach profiles, and wave conditions are
proceeding along those lines.

CONCLUSIONS AND PROGNOSIS

If beach profiles were simple, as is roughly the case for the reflective and
dissipative extremes, and if breaking waves were the only source of fluid
motion acting to move sediment, which is n o t the case for any of the natural
states, then predicting beach changes would probably be a relatively simple
matter. In such an ideal world, we could probably rely on the results of
laboratory experiments without much loss of confidence. Unfortunately,
the existence of complicated and widely prevalent intermediate states, the
prominent roles played b y various standing wave and edge wave modes and
by various scales of surf zone circulation, the importance of inheritance
from antecedent states, and the roles of processes acting seaward of the surf
zone make the natural environments less simple.
Nevertheless, repeated observations of nature have shown that the
116

morphodynamic associations are at least quasi-systematic though not yet

fully predictable. Predictability is certain to be improved progressively
through continued observation, data collection and analyses. Extension of
the predictive models to a universal or global scale will require more inten-
sive use of remote sensing data since experiments of the sort we have
discussed can never be carried out worldwide.
From our results so far, it becomes increasingly apparent that the onshore--
offshore and alongshore exchange of sediments is not confined to the surf
zone but extends out onto the inner continental shelf to depths of over 20 m.
In addition, processes operating over the inner continental shelf partially
predetermine the nature, intensity, and variability of the processes which
operate within the surf zone. An example is presented in this paper; others
are discussed b y Wright et al. (1982c). In turn, the complex processes of the
surf zone are fundamental in effecting the transfer of sediments between the
shelf and the subaerial beach. The problem of beach and nearshore morpho-
dynamics is thus one which involves the entire Coastal Boundary Layer.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

This study has been supported by the Office of Naval Research, Coastal
Sciences Program, Task NR 388-157, Grant N-00014-80-G-0001. Additional
support was provided by the Australian Research Grants Committee (ARGC)
and the Australian Marine Sciences and Technologies Advisory Committee
(AMSTAC). Valuable and c o m p e t e n t assistance in the field and in data
analysis was provided by P. Nielsen, M.P. Bradshaw, M.O. Green, F.C. Coffey,
G. Lloyd, J. Mackaness and other members of the Coastal Studies Unit (past
and present). Figures were drawn by J. Roberts and J. de Roder. The manu-
script was completed at the Virginia Institute of Marine Science and was
typed by C. Gaskins.

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