SUMMER 2019 v4 | n2

VOLVO TECHTIPS
Information for the Independent Volvo Specialist

AUXILIARY
BELT Service

Cooling systems
Fuel Systems
MOONROOF/SUNROOF

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SUMMER 2019 v4 | n2

VOLVO TECHTIPS
Volvo TechTips is a publication sponsored by F E AT U R E S
Volvo Car USA LLC. No part of this newsletter
may be reproduced without the express A U X I L I A R Y B E LT
written permission of Volvo Car USA LLC.
Have a content idea, suggestion, or comment?
SERVICE
You may remember the day that you
first opened the hood on one of these
4
Contact us: feedback@VolvoTechTips.com
newer Volvos equipped with the 3.0L
or the 3.2L (SI6) six cylinder engine.
Visit Volvotechinfo.com for more
information on specific tools referenced.
If original tools are no longer available
for purchase, substitute a generic
equivalent as needed.
COOLING SYSTEMS,
Volvo Senior Project Director
Ron Jenkins
SERVICE AND
R E PA I R
Keeping this system free of dirt,
12
Senior Manager, Business Strategy
and Analytics debris, and rust is imperative.

Volvo Project Lead

Roman Grudinin
Wholesale Program Manager

Group Publisher
Christopher M. Ayers, Jr. FUEL SYSTEMS
cayers@AutomotiveDataMedia.com

Editor
G. Quagmire
Volvo engines have been fuel injected
for many years, but the fuel injection
system has changed a bit. We will go
18
gquagmire@AutomotiveDataMedia.com over different systems used through
Contributing Writers the years, how to maintain these
Kevin Parkhurst, Sean Stephens, systems, and the various problems
Wayne Riley, Frank Walker that might occur.

Automotive Data Media Project Mgr.

Tamra Ayers Banz
tbanz@AutomotiveDataMedia.com MOONROOF/
Art Director
Christopher M. Ayers III
ayersc3@AutomotiveDataMedia.com
SUNROOF SERVICE,
DIAGNOSIS AND
R E PA I R
28
Today’s sunroofs are multi-functional
Editorial and Circulation Offices: and even multi-sectional, and some
134B River Rd., Montague, NJ 07827 Volvos even have full-length sunroof
glass that covers almost the entire
Caution: Vehicle servicing performed by untrained persons could result roofline of the car.
in serious injury to those persons or others. Information contained in this
publication is intended for use by trained, professional auto repair technicians
ONLY. This information is provided to inform these technicians of conditions
which may occur in some vehicles or to provide information which could assist D E PA R T M E N T S
them in proper servicing of these vehicles. What the Heck is that Noise? 10
Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and
know-how to perform repairs correctly and safely. If a condition is described, Electronic Throttle Module (ETM) 26
DO NOT assume that a topic covered in these pages automatically applies to Sunroof Case Study: Stuck in the 80 Percent Closed Position 35
your vehicle or that your vehicle has that condition. Volvo Car USA LLC, the
Volvo name and Volvo logo are registered trademarks of Volvo Corporation.
Cover Photo Credit: Sean Stephens

SUMMER 2019 3
 AUXILIARY BELT SERVICE ON
THE VOLVO 3.0L TURBO (B6304T4)
AND 3.2L NON TURBO (B6324S)
SI6 (SHORT SIX) ENGINES
YO U M AY R E M E M B E R T H E
DAY T H AT YO U F I R ST O P E N E D
THE HOOD ON ONE OF THESE
N E W E R V O LV O S E Q U I P P E D
WITH THE 3.0L OR THE 3.2L
(SI6) SIX CYLINDER ENGINE.

850 Volvo Transmission

V O LV O T E C H T I P S 4
At first glance, you may have noticed a few major
changes, like no timing belt and the lack of anything
familiar about the front of the block where the belts and
pulleys usually are on most Volvos.
You may have been taken by surprise to see the belts and
all the engine’s accessories were on the back of the engine,
squeezed in between the engine block and the transmission.
You may have thought to yourself something like, “This
is never going to work,” or “How the heck are you going
to change the belts and things like the water pump and
power steering pump?” Well, that’s what older Volvo techs
said about the first Volvo all aluminum 5 cylinder engines
when they came out.
And those engines certainly worked out.
Volvo has had its share of new engine designs over the
years since the end of the use of the old “RED” block
engines, especially in the last decade. Of course, you may
or may not know that Volvo is going back to its roots and
using the same size engine in all its cars. Starting with the
2018 model year, most Volvos now come equipped with a
2.0L 4 cylinder engine with different aspiration options.
However, the fact is that the previously used SI6 3.0L and
the 3.2L engines have turned out to be very reliable and
robust with few major problems, if reasonably serviced.
If you are changing the auxiliary belt on a V70 or an XC60 equipped with the 3.0L or 3.2L engine, you will need to
remove the battery and battery tray because the battery is located in the left side of the engine compartment.
Volvo designed the SI6 (“Short Inline 6”) straight six
engine for use starting in their 2007 models, and it was
installed in cars you’ll commonly see in your shop.
An evolution of the company’s long-used 5 cylinder
modular engine design, which itself was an evolution of
the Volvo B6304 straight six engines, the SI6 could be
mounted transversely for front wheel drive or all wheel
drive applications.
Despite the added cylinder and displacement, the engine
remains compact and is in fact 1 mm (0.039 in.) shorter
than the previous straight 5.
The engine was initially offered in two displacements,
a 3.0L turbocharged version and a 3.2L naturally
aspirated version.
Both engine sizes offer variable valve timing adjustment,
though only the turbo version varies both the intake and
exhaust camshafts.
On top of the variable cam timing used on the intake cam
of the naturally aspirated engine, it also features variable
valve lift by using Cam Profile Switching (CPS).
Volvo put the accessories between the block and the
transmission to make the power train as compact as
possible, making it easier to fit it into multiple body types,
and the shorter engine allows for improved turning radius.
SUMMER 2019 5
A U X I L I A R Y B E LT S E R V I C E

CHANGING
THE
AUXILIARY
B E LT S O N A
2 0 0 7 XC 9 0
WITH SI6 3.2L
ENGINE
For a case study we will
be using a 2007 Volvo
XC90 equipped with the
3.2L SI6 engine.

Changing the belt on

this car is very similar to
most other Volvos that
came with one of these
engines with just a few
small variations.

The procedure for

changing the belts is
essentially the same
procedure for the water
pump, A/C compressor,
or any of the auxiliary
tensioners.

Even if you are just

replacing the belts, it can
take some time and is
a bit more involved than
your usual auxiliary belt
replacement job.

Since you will be

removing the air cleaner
and the ECM that’s
mounted on top of it,
you should start the job
by disconnecting the
negative battery terminal.

When disconnecting and

reconnecting the battery
on a Volvo always follow
the Volvo factory battery
procedures as covered in
TJ 24188.

Next remove the main

engine cover by pulling it
up and out of the way.

Remove the ECM cover

on top of the air cleaner
and carefully remove the
two harness connectors. When the belt is off, always check the pulleys and bearings for play and roughness.
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 6
Be gentle with the plastic retaining clips; they can
be brittle.
Remove the air cleaner box.
You will have to remove the wire harness connector for
the main fuse block along with the 12 mm nut that holds
the end of the B+ cable in the main fuse block.
Remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold the cold air
intake tube.
Remove the nuts for the power steering reservoir so you
can move it out of the way.
Next, loosen the clamps at each end of the main air intake
pipe that runs from the air cleaner to the bottom of the
intake manifold.
Carefully remove the intake pipe by gently twisting and
pulling. DO NOT pry at the ends with a screwdriver. This
can damage the pipe and may cause unmetered air leaks.
When you are in the drive belt area, it’s a good idea to check to see if the brake
vacuum pump is leaking. You can reseal it with a seal kit (Volvo part number
31401556) available from Volvo. You will have great access to the pump to
replace the auxiliary belt while these parts are removed.
Next you will have to remove the bolts that mount the
A/C compressor.
In most cases (except for the replacement of the A/C
compressor itself), you should not have to remove the
refrigerant charge because you just need to move the
compressor a little out of the way to get enough room to
remove and replace the belts.
This will also give you a lot more access to the drive
belt area. Use a 19 mm box end wrench to slacken the
tensioner and relieve the tension on the belt.
Pull the tensioner back until the holes line up in the
tensioner arm and the mounting. Then use a 3 mm pin or
equivalent to lock the tensioner in position (you can reuse
an old timing belt tensioner retaining pin for this).
The next steps will be to remove the bolts that mount
the power steering pump. Start with the two small bolts
that connect the power steering pulley to the water pump
coupling assembly and then remove the four mounting
bolts at the rear of the power
steering pump.
When you remove the power
steering pump from the water
pump coupler, remove the pins
from the pulley. Rotate the power
steering pump upward and
rearward.
In some cases, you will have to
disconnect the power steering
pump high pressure line to move
the pump out of the way.
Now that you have removed all of
those components, you will be able
to remove the old serpentine belt.
W H E N T H E B E LT I S
O F F. . . C H E C K T H O S E
BEARINGS
Sometimes it’s hard to tell if the
auxiliary belt tensioner or idler
bearings are worn just by listening
to the engine running. A worn or
dry bearing may only make noise
intermittently so it is important
to spot any potential bearing
problems now.
If you find a binding or noisy
idler bearing, now is the time to
replace it.
SUMMER 2019 7
A U X I L I A R Y B E LT S E R V I C E

And, if the car has more than 100K on it, you may want
to advise your customer to replace the tensioner and idler
bearings as part of the belt service; this will probably end
up saving them some money in the long run.
The idler bearings can fail before the belts do, so don’t
take any chances, replace any questionable parts when
you’re in there.
It’s more common to have to change the water pump
than the power steering pumps on these cars, but in both
cases you will have to remove the power steering pump.
So let’s assume that you have removed everything that’s
involved in replacing the serpentine belt.
If you started out to replace the water pump, you
could add draining of the engine coolant right after
disconnecting the battery.
The power steering pump pulley drives the water pump via
a spring loaded coupler that is bolted right to the face of
the power steering pump pulley. The water pump coupler
is delicate and can be damaged if you’re not careful.
(Note: Some later Volvos equipped with the SI6 engines
use electronic power steering, so they don’t use a belt-
driven power steering pump. )
Always use a new guide pin when installing the power
steering pump.
If you are replacing the water pump, the Volvo pump
comes with new hardware and a new plastic guide pin.
Is that vacuum pump leaking?
Well now is a great time to reseal it with all this extra
room. Volvo sells a reseal kit for this purpose with
everything you will need (Volvo part number 31401556 ).
The 3.0L and the 3.2L SI6 engines both came equipped
with a mechanical vacuum pump that is mounted on
the rear of the cylinder head and is driven by the intake
camshaft. These vacuum pumps can start to show signs
of engine oil leaks after many miles of use. You will usually
notice oil seeping from the bottom of the pump.
Removing and resealing these pumps is a relatively easy
job, made even easier when the other components are out
of the way during a belt replacement job. The reseal kit
from Volvo comes with everything you need to do the job.
Start by removing the two bolts that mount the pump
assembly to the back of the head.
Next, carefully remove the vacuum pump hard line from
the pump check valve by squeezing the quick connector

WHEN
REMOVING
THE POWER
STEERING
PUMP
Remove the two
screws and poke
out the lugs from
the power steering
pulley. Turn the power
steering pump upward
and rearward.

WHEN
I N S TA L L I N G
To facilitate fitting
of the water pump
coupling in the power
steering pump pulley,
turn the coupling until
the spikes are in the
eight o’clock and two
o’clock position. Make
sure that the pins stick
out through the holes
in the pulley.
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 8
tabs on the plastic hose fitting and pulling the hose out
towards the rear of the engine.

Now you can remove the vacuum pump from the back of
the head by pulling and twisting the pump. Do not use a
screwdriver or pry bar for this task as you may damage
the machined surfaces. Some oil will leak out of the hole
in back of the head, so be ready with a rag. Take the pump
to a work bench for disassembly and reassembly.

Clean the oil and dirt off the outside of the pump housing
with parts cleaner and clean rags.
VOLVO
You will need a Torx T25 tool to remove the five screws
that hold the pump together. You should be able to
GENUINE PARTS
remove the screws without putting the pump in a vise,
since clamping down on the pump body may cause
damage to the pump. We know quality repairs matter at
With the five T25 screws removed you can disassemble
your shop, and we’re here to help.
the pump, making a note of the way the pump parts
are oriented. Get all the benefits of Volvo Genuine
Parts with one simple phone call.
Clean the parts and the inside of the pump with a clean
rag and spray parts cleaner, then dry the parts with low
air pressure.

Inspect all the parts, and make sure they are free of debris
before reassembly.

Use the new screws that come with the reseal kit.

Install the large O-ring into the groove in the body of the
pump. You can use a little bit of silicone grease to hold
the seal in place while you reassemble the two halves of
the pump.

Tighten the five new screws evenly in a star pattern

(torque screws to 15 Nm).

Next, replace the plastic check valve that attaches to the

main vacuum pipe. Note that the new check valve will
have a new O-ring installed on it already.

Before you reinstall the freshly resealed pump, install the

new O-ring in the groove around the input shaft of the
pump. Use a little silicone lubricant on the seal to prevent
twisting or damage to the O-ring when it is installed into
the cylinder head.

Line up the pump drive shaft with the corresponding

grooves in the camshaft and slide the pump in, installing
the two hold down bolts and torque them to 17 Nm.

Snap in the vacuum pipe and you’re done.

The idler bearings can fail before the belts do, so don’t
take any chances. Replace any questionable parts while
•
you’re in there.
SUMMER 2019 9
 WHAT THE HECK IS THAT NOISE?
Have you ever had a Volvo equipped with a 3.2L non- All you will need to do the job is a Torx T30 socket and
turbo engine come into your shop with a customer a pocket screwdriver to pop out the wire connector clips
complaint of a high-pitched whining or whistling noise
coming from the engine?
that are attached at the edges of the box.•
Of course you have. Most technicians would automatically
start thinking a noise like that was most likely caused by a
worn auxiliary belt or a worn pulley.

Well, in some cases they would be right.

What else could be the culprit? On the 3.2L SI6 engine a

high-pitched whine could come from multiple sources, like
worn belts, pulleys or even an intake air leak.

But one of the causes can be a ruptured diaphragm in the

oil trap box, located on top of the valve cover at the rear of
the engine.

Over time, the diaphragm in the oil trap can crack and
start to make a whistle noise, especially at idle when the
engine is warmed up.

An easy way to confirm that the diaphragm is cracked is

to try to pull out the dipstick or remove the oil filler cap
while the car is idling. There will be lots of engine vacuum,
which will make it difficult to remove the dipstick and
make it seem like the oil filler cap is glued on.

But once you vent the vacuum, the noise will go away.

Sometimes this problem can be very intermittent because

the crack in the diaphragm is very small, but as the leak gets
larger, the customer will begin to notice more symptoms.

Since a broken oil trap diaphragm is interpreted by the

ECM as an unmetered intake air leak, it will eventually
cause the Check Engine light to illuminate and in most
cases store a PO171 code.

The customer may even notice a change in engine

performance and fuel economy. There is also a risk if
this problem is left unchecked: the excess crankcase
pressure can cause premature oil seal failures and
subsequent oil leaks.

Fortunately for your customers, this repair is fairly

affordable and easy to perform.

The oil trap comes from Volvo as an entire assembly

complete with a new seal installed in the base.

Make sure you use air to blow off any loose dirt or debris
before you remove the old oil trap assembly.
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 1 0
 VOLVO GENUINE PARTS
N O T H I N G C A N R E P L AC E T H E M

When a part needs replacement, a Volvo Genuine

Part is the right choice. Manufactured to Volvo’s exact
specifications, they deliver the safety, quality and
reliability your customers expect from the Volvo brand.

Volvo Genuine Parts fit perfectly and

come with a 2-year limited warranty.*

Contact your local Volvo dealer for a complete

selection of Volvo Genuine Parts.

2-year
warranty

* U.S. only. Warranty excludes consumable “wear item” parts, labor and Volvo accessories.

SUMMER 2019 11
 XXXX

Volvo Cooling systems,

service and repair
KEEPING THIS SYSTEM
F R E E O F D I R T, D E B R I S ,
A N D R U ST I S I M P E R AT I V E .

Using heat gun

to expand pipe,
making it easier
to remove

V O LV O T E C H T I P S 1 2
It is very important to keep Volvo cooling systems properly
maintained to assure there are no leaks and no potential
problems for the customer. Running out of coolant or
antifreeze will overheat the engine and possibly ruin it.
Always advise your customers to keep an eye on the
temperature gauge to make sure the vehicle is not
getting hot. The engine is designed to run at an optimum
temperature. This is not just for performance, it’s also about
maintaining the right temperature for all the emission
control systems so they will perform at their peak.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Keeping this system free of dirt, debris and rust is
imperative. Flushing the system out from the vehicle and
adding new coolant will keep the cooling system fresh
and reliable.
R E P L A C I N G R A D I ATO R I N A
2 0 0 4 XC 7 0
The radiators in these vehicles are removed from the
bottom of the vehicle. Volvo started this in 1993 with the
front wheel drive vehicles, the 850 being the first.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist and remove the air valance
that is positioned under the radiator, then remove the air
conditioning condenser and turbo intercooler. The turbo
intercooler and the radiator will come down together,
leaving the air conditioning condenser to remain in the
vehicle. Drain coolant from the system; this can be done
at the bottom corner of the left front area of the radiator.
Unscrew the petcock until all coolant has drained, then
tighten the petcock.
The two bolts at the bottom of the radiator, one on each side
While the vehicle is still up in the air remove two bolts
with 10 mm heads that hold the radiator, condenser and
intercooler together.
Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator and
plug both ends so coolant doesn’t leak all over.
Lower the vehicle to work on top. Remove the top radiator
hose and also remove the intercooler hose and pipe to
the turbo. Remove the screws that hold the electric fan
in place. Disconnect the electrical connector that goes to
the fan and pull the fan assembly up and out.
Remove the two 10 mm bolts at the top that hold the
radiator, intercooler and condenser together. Now, the
intercooler pipe from intercooler to throttle will need to be
removed. Also remove the top reservoir or expansion tank
hose that is connected to the top of the radiator.
Remove the transmission hoses, upper and lower,
connected to radiator. Push in on green connectors and
pull out. It is necessary to replace the connectors and
O-rings on both hoses. Use Volvo Genuine Part number
9485149 and O-ring, 988840. Make sure to put a drip
pan under the hoses to catch escaping fluids.
Now that everything is disconnected, raise the vehicle
back up and remove the last two 12 mm bolts holding
the complete assembly in. The condenser will stay in the
vehicle; you can secure it with tie wraps. Pull down both
the radiator and intercooler together. This can be hard to
do; pulling down passenger side first at an angle will help
in removing the radiator.
Once the radiator and intercooler are
out, match up the new radiator with
the intercooler. Replace both radiator
mounts and the nuts that fit in the
top of radiator that hold in the fan
assembly. Using some A/C pipe wrap
will hold the nuts in place so they won’t
fall out while installing the radiator.
Assemble the radiator with intercooler
into the vehicle. Install it at an angle
up at the driver’s side then fit it with
the air conditioning condenser. Push
up level so that all three (radiator,
intercooler and condenser) are
together. Using a scissor jack can help
in holding all together. Install the two
radiator bolts 12 mm headed. Install
the two bottom 10 mm bolts that hold
all three units together. Start them but
leave them loose until the other two at
top are in place.
SUMMER 2019 13
V O LV O C O O L I N G S Y S T E M S

While the vehicle is still on the hoist, install the bottom

radiator hose and secure. The bottom cooling hose to
transmission can now be installed. Remember to use
new O-rings and connector. Fit into the radiator and
secure. Lower the vehicle and install the top cooling
hose from the transmission with new O-rings and
connector. Install the two long 10 mm bolts that hold
everything together and tighten. Install the rubber hose
from the expansion tank to the top of the radiator and
tighten the clamp.

Making sure to hold electrical wiring out of the way,

install the electric fan assembly. Slip fan assembly
into place and secure with two bolts at the top of the
radiator. Plug in the electric connectors that were
removed and tie wrap together out of the way of any
moving parts.

Install the top radiator hose and secure. Add new

coolant to the system (Volvo coolant 31439821),
and check to make sure there are no leaks. Install the
turbo intercooler hose and pipe from the turbo to the
intercooler. Connect the pipe from the throttle housing
to the intercooler and tighten the clamp. Start the vehicle
and warm up, adding coolant if needed.
Raise the vehicle back up on the hoist and check to
make sure there are no leaks from the radiator, hoses,
and transmission lines. Tighten the two 10 mm long bolts
already installed at the bottom of the radiator. Lower
the vehicle and test drive. Let the vehicle cool down and
check the coolant level again to make sure the tank is full.
R E P L A C I N G W AT E R P U M P
ON 2003 S80 NON TURBO
Customer brings in a vehicle, 2003 S80 non turbo,
complaining of overheating. Vehicle builds up pressure and
starts to get hot. Seems like a possible head gasket, but
wait! Be sure to check the temperature at the thermostat
housing and at the radiator hoses. If the temperature is
over 200 degrees F at the thermostat housing, and only
80 degrees F at the radiator inlet, and if the bottom hose is
also cooler than the thermostat housing, it’s possible there’s
no circulation in the coolant system.
After the vehicle cools down, remove the thermostat from
the vehicle and secure the housing. Fill the system with
water and check again. If the same thing occurs again
- hot at the thermostat housing and cool at the radiator -
it’s time to check the water pump.
Under these circumstances, it’s possible the water pump
has failed. The water pump on this vehicle is driven by the
timing belt.
Transmission hose at radiator with green connector
R E P L A C I N G T H E W AT E R P U M P
ON 2003 S80 TURBO
The water pump is on the front of engine on the right side
of the vehicle. Drain all coolant from system. This can be
done at the radiator petcock at the bottom of the radiator.
After all coolant is out, tighten the petcock.
Remove the expansion tank and power steering reservoir
from the vehicle, and plug all lines so not to drip fluids.
Remove the auxiliary serpentine belt from the vehicle. The
timing cover will need to be taken off; remove the center
bolt that holds on the cover. Remove the top torque rod
across the top of the engine. This will make it easier to
remove the cover.
Now that the cover is removed, the water pump is exposed.
Jack the vehicle up or put the vehicle on a hoist and raise
it up enough to remove the tire on the right side of the
vehicle. Pull back the inner fender removing two 10 mm
plastic nuts. Use a 30 mm socket with extension and turn
the crankshaft clockwise until all timing marks are lined up.
Loosen the timing belt tensioner with a 12 mm wrench
and remove the timing belt and set it aside. Remove the
two engine mount bolts under the crankshaft and jack the
front of engine up. This will give more room to remove the
water pump.
Now that the water pump is exposed, use a 10 mm
socket to remove all seven bolts holding the water pump
on. Tap on the pump to release it from the engine block.
Remove the pump and inspect. If any impeller blades are
missing or broken, or if the impeller just spins easily, this
is the problem.
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 1 4
Timing marks lined up
Water pump with
impeller
blades
broken
away
Once the water pump is removed, clean the surface
really well with sandpaper and a blade to remove gasket
material. Use a gasket sealer to secure the gasket to the
new water pump, Volvo Genuine Part number 30751700
and replace bolts part number 985151. Set the pump
with gasket into place, making sure that the two dowel
pins line up and the water pump is flat. Install the water
pump bolts and tighten.
Tool inserted at trim of radio system
Reinstall the timing belt, making sure that the timing marks
are lined up. Route the belt around the crankshaft up to the
intake camshaft over to the exhaust camshaft, down to the
water pump and around the tensioner. With the tensioner
loose, push the needle over just enough to slide the belt on.
Check to make sure the marks are aligned. With a 6 mm
Allen wrench, position the timing tensioner to the desired
position, and tighten with a 12 mm wrench. Spin the engine
over by hand to make sure the timing marks are aligned
properly. Route the auxiliary belt correctly around all pulleys.
SUMMER 2019 15
V O LV O C O O L I N G S Y S T E M S

Install the expansion tank and connect the hoses. Make and fiber optic cables, making sure not to bend to a radius
sure the radiator petcock is tight. Add coolant to the of less than 25 mm. Set aside the entertainment display
system and check to make sure there are no leaks. and climate control unit.

Lower the engine and install the engine mount bolts and
tighten. Leave the front timing cover off at this time. Install
the power steering reservoir and hoses, being sure the
power steering is full. Start the engine and bring it up to
normal operating temperature. Add coolant until full and
install the cap. Let the vehicle warm up, and check for
any leaks again. Shut off the vehicle and install the front
timing cover and top torque rod across the top of the
engine. Test drive the vehicle and check to make sure the
coolant is full.
H E AT E R C O R E R E P L A C E M E N T
2 0 0 8 XC 7 0
Replacing heater cores can sometimes be very
challenging. Having the right tools and the know-how to
do this job will help in getting it done correctly.
Referring to VIDA will always help when replacing a Volvo
heater core.
Leaking coolant inside the cabin floor is always a
good indication the heater core is leaking. Cleaning
this coolant out of the cabin area can sometimes
be time consuming. You often have to remove both
front seats and carpet, and then clean and vacuum
all the coolant up so your customer won’t be
breathing fumes from the coolant.
Now, for removing the center console, move both front
seat back as far as they will go. Remove both side panels;
this will expose the screws to remove at the front of the
console. Open up the console compartment and remove
the rubber liner. Underneath there will be two T25 Torx
fasteners that need to come out.
Remove the screw under the cup holder, and pull the
cup holder straight up. The shifter cable will need to
be disconnected at the shift assembly. Push the cable
end out towards the passenger side so that the cable
is free of the shifter assembly. Disconnect all electrical
connectors and remove the complete console and set it
out of the way.
Now that the center console is out, remove the air ducting
surrounding the heater box. Remove the four screws
on the front cover and also the two screws covering
the coolant pipes. This will give room to disconnect the
coolant pipes going to the heater core.

Drain coolant from the engine system at the bottom

of the radiator on the left side.

Once coolant is drained, tighten the petcock so no

dripping will occur.

Inside the vehicle, the center console will need to

come out. With a trim tool, remove the face plate
around the infotainment system. This will expose the
screws that will need to come out. Side panels at bottom of console
Also, remove the trim
around the shifter
with the same trim
tool. Once the trim is
removed, remove the
eight screws that hold
down the information and
entertainment display
with the climate control
unit. Two screws on the
back side will need to
come out too. Disconnect
all electrical connections Covers at front and over coolant pipes
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 1 6
 Push in the collector at the connection and pull out on
the coolant pipe. Some heater cores will have a clamp
holding the pipes in the heater core. Just unscrew and
remove them together. Be prepared to collect any coolant
that might escape. Remove the heater core and replace it
with a Volvo Genuine part.
Clean out the heater box with a detergent and rinse. Dry
out the box and make sure all coolant is cleaned up.
Install the trim pieces around the shifter and
information and entertainment display. Install the side
panels at the console.
Add coolant to the system and warm up the vehicle,
making sure the coolant is full. Test drive the vehicle. Let
the vehicle cool down and top off the coolant. Check for
any kinds of coolant leaks and make sure all controls
work correctly.

Install the new heater core. Connect both coolant pipes
and secure in place. Install the cover over top and tighten
the screws to hold it in place. Install the cover over the
pipes, right side up, and tighten down. Align all the heater
duct tubing and snap into place.
Put the center console back into place and attach all
electrical connectors. Tighten down the screws for the
console. Connect the shifter cable and put into place.
Check and make sure the shifter operates correctly. Install
the cup holder after the screw is tightened down.
Install the information and entertainment display, with
climate control. Attach all electrical connectors and fiber
optics making sure not to crimp the fiber optics. Secure
the panel with the temperature sensor.
Diagnosing coolant-related problems can sometimes be
difficult. Using the right procedures can help to correct
problems in the system. It could have been very easy
to misdiagnose this problem with the water pump if the
temperature was not checked at each place: the radiator
top hose, bottom hose and engine thermostat. Looking for
circulation in system will be helpful also.
Leaking coolant usually can be found by pressurizing
coolant system. Hoses and clamps can sometimes be the
problem. After years of wear on the vehicle, it’s a good
idea to change all hoses and clamps. Oil can get on a
hose and make it swell up and leak, especially near the
turbo, where the hoses get really hot.
Checking the coolant system periodically and changing
the coolant as needed will keep the system clean and the
temperature gauge where it’s supposed to be. •

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SUMMER 2019 17
 Volvo Fuel Systems
V O LV O E N G I N E S H A V E B E E N F U E L
INJECTED FOR MANY YEARS, BUT
THE FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM HAS
C H A N G E D A B I T. W E W I L L G O O V E R
DIFFERENT SYSTEMS USED THROUGH
T H E Y E A R S , H O W TO M A I N TA I N
THESE SYSTEMS, AND THE VARIOUS
P R O B L E M S T H AT M I G H T O C C U R .
When working on fuel systems, any time there is a fuel
system leak, be sure to disconnect the battery before
any repair.
On the 240, 740, and 940 vehicles, the injection systems
were all Bosch-designed systems. These systems
primarily used these components:
electric fuel pump fuel accumulator
fuel filter fuel pressure regulator
fuel distributor fuel injectors
These systems worked well, but as time went on, more
strict emissions standards were introduced and the systems
changed. Evaporative emissions systems were upgraded to
keep fuel vapors from escaping into the atmosphere.
In 1994, the Volvo 850 Turbo was fitted with Motronic 4.3
fuel injection. The new system was a complete system
with a control module that controls fuel flow, idle speed,
ignition timing, engine cooling fan, EGR system, EVAP
system, air conditioning switch, and the boost control for
the turbo. There was also an on-board diagnostic system.
Motronic 4.4 came along and added some more
features, including:
• Atmospheric pressure sensor
• Outside temperature sensor
• Modified location of rear oxygen sensor. The sensor
was moved forward and right behind the three way
catalytic converter.
• A more effective EVAP system
• The fuel regulator is located above steering rack on
right side of vehicle and the hose
routing is different.

The Motronic 4.4 B5254S fuel

pressure regulator is connected in
line, so pressure stays at 300 kPa
(43.5 psi). This will give an accurate
control for the Engine Control
Module (ECM) to work on a non
turbo engine.

With no return line from the fuel

rail, the engine will not heat the
fuel, and the fuel temperature will
remain low to reduce evaporation
from the fuel tank.

The Motronic 4.4 system was a very

reliable system with little trouble.
Keeping the vehicle maintained
correctly is a big key. Changing the
fuel filter, changing spark plugs and
The complete 4.3 fuel injection system components include: air filter every 30,000 miles, and
1. Electronic Control Module (ECM) 16. Air conditioning pressure sensor using the correct fuel with the right
2. Engine Speed Sensor (RPM) 17. System relay octane — all these things need to
3. Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) 18. Fuel pump relay be done to keep a Volvo running in
4. Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) 19. Fuel pump top shape.
5. Throttle Position Sensor (TP) 20. Injectors
6. Throttle Position Sensor (TP) 21. Idle Air Control valve (IAC)
7. Front oxygen sensor (HO2S) 22. Idle Air Control valve (IAC) V O LV O E VA P S Y S T E M
8. Rear oxygen sensor (HO2S) 23. Turbocharger Control valve (TC) The components of a 1998 Volvo
9. Knock sensor (KS) 24. Fan relay S70 EVAP system:
10. Speedometer 25. Engine cooling fan 1. Canister purge valve
11. T
 ransmission Control Module (TCM) 26. Canister Purge valve (CP) 2. EVAP canister
12. EGR temperature sensor 27. EGR control 3. Shut-off valve
13. Acceleration sensor 28. Combined instrument panel 4. Filter
14. Air conditioning 29. Air conditioning compressor relay 5. Fuel tank pressure sensor
15. Air conditioning pressure switch 31. OBD II data link connection 6. ORVR valve
7. Rollover valve
Opposite Page: Fuel gauges hooked up to the Schraeder valve at the fuel rail 8. Motronic 4.4 ECM
SUMMER 2019 19
V O LV O F U E L S Y S T E M S

C A N I S T E R P U R G E V A LV E ( C P )
This valve controls the flow of fuel vapor and air from the
EVAP canister to the engine. The valve is controlled by
the ECM.

EVAP CANISTER
Hydrocarbon vapor coming out of the fuel tank is dealt
with by the EVAP canister. To minimize pressure drop in
the lines between the fuel tank and the EVAP canister,
the EVAP canister is located close to the fuel tank. The
EVAP canister volume is 2.1 liters. A new type of carbon
reduces pressure drop in the gas flowing through the
EVAP canister.

E V A P C A N I S T E R S H U T O F F V A LV E
The valve is located close to the EVAP canister. The valve
is part of the leak diagnostic system and temporarily
closes the EVAP canister fresh air intake during the
diagnostic test.

The filter is connected to the EVAP canister shut-off valve

in line with a hose.

The pressure sensor is located in line with the ORVR

valve and provides information about fuel tank pressure.
Purge valve
The ORVR valve has two functions: the rollover valve,
which closes off fuel at the EVAP line so fuel won’t
escape if the vehicle has rolled over, and also a float valve
that closes when the fuel tank is full.

R O L L O V E R V A LV E
The rollover valve is mounted high on the fuel tank, and
a small EVAP line runs from it to the ORVR valve. The
rollover valve lets the fuel tank breathe when the ORVR
valve is closed after the vehicle has been fueled up.

MONTRONIC 4.4
The ECM controls all functions in the system during
cold start and after warm-up.

The following is a description of how the EVAP

system works.

When refueling starts, the check valve in the fuel tank

opens. The fuel flow creates negative pressure at the
top of the fuel filler pipe. This results in an air flow in
the fuel filler pipe. It is important to have low resistance
between the fuel tank and atmospheric pressure (via the
EVAP canister shut-off valve filter) to stop fuel vapor from
escaping from the fuel filler pipe. The principle of the
system is called a dynamic seal. EVAP
canister
When the fuel tank is full, the ORVR valve closes and the valve
fuel tank pressure increases rapidly. This closes the check
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 2 0
 Cabin filter
C L E A N A I R F O R E V E R YO N E

All Volvos are equipped with a cabin filter that cleans

the incoming air to ensure a healthy in-car environment.

Replace the cabin filter every other maintenance visit,

or more frequently if driving in high traffic areas
or on dusty roads.

Contact your local Volvo dealer for a complete

selection of Volvo Genuine Parts.

SUMMER 2019 21
V O LV O F U E L S Y S T E M S

Smoke testing a vehicle

Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM)

valve in the fuel tank, preventing fuel from coming out of

the filler pipe when the fuel pump nozzle is shut off.

Fuel vapor in the fuel tank (together with air) reaches the
EVAP canister via the ORVR valve. Fuel vapor is adsorbed
by the carbon in the EVAP canister. If the ORVR valve is
closed, the fuel tank is vented via the rollover valve.

When the canister purge valve (CP) is closed, the fuel

vapor remains in the EVAP canister. When the ECM
transmits an opening signal to the valve, vacuum from
the intake manifold or from the fresh air intake creates
a flow through the EVAP canister. The EVAP canister is
connected to the outside atmosphere via the canister
shut-off filter, which allows the flow to evacuate the
EVAP canister.

The air flow through the EVAP canister removes stored

fuel vapor, which flows to the engine and enters the
combustion process. The canister purge valve (CP) pulses
rapidly when the car is being driven and is idling.

HOW THE EVAP SYSTEM

CARRIES OUT DIAGNOSTICS
When the EVAP canister shut-off valve and (CP) canister
purge valve are closed, the fuel tank system is now com-
pletely closed. Pressure in the fuel tank should be stable. If
pressure drops the (CP) canister purge valve is leaking.
When the EVAP canister shut-off valve opens, the tank
system is open. The (CP) canister purge valve is pulsed,
and because of the negative pressure in the intake
manifold, the engine starts to suck air through the EVAP
canister. Because the EVAP canister shut-off valve is
open, the pressure in the fuel tank drops slowly. If the
Smoke testing a vehicle and leaking hoses at the canister
pressure in the fuel tank drops rapidly the EVAP canister
shut-off valve is clogged.
When the EVAP canister shut-off valve is closed, the (CP)
canister purge valve continues to be pulsed, and pressure
in the fuel tank should drop rapidly. If pressure does not
drop enough, there is a large leakage in the fuel tank
system. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be stored.
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 2 2

Volvo tool for
removing the
fuel pump collar
When the canister purge valve is closed, the EVAP canister
shut-off valve is still closed, so there is negative pressure in
the fuel tank. The negative pressure in the fuel tank should
be stabilized. If pressure starts to increase too quickly, this
indicates a small leakage in the system. A diagnostic trouble
code is stored. When the EVAP canister shut-off valve
opens, the EVAP function is enabled and the diagnostic test
is finished.
Smoke testing or introducing smoke into the system can
help in finding EVAP leaks, possible hose leaks, or maybe
a faulty seal at the tank. Hoses at the EVAP canister
deteriorate, get worn out and crack, letting vapors out and
setting a Check Engine light.
V O LV O 8 5 0 F U E L P U M P
REPLACEMENT
Now that diagnosis has determined that the fuel pump is
not working, make sure to disconnect the battery negative
cable before beginning repairs. Relieve all pressure in the
system. This can be done at the Schraeder valve on the
fuel rail. Hook up a fuel pressure test gauge to relieve
pressure and catch all fuel in a drip pan. Now that all
pressure in the system is relieved, replacing the pump will
be a cleaner and safer job.
Lower the right rear seat. This will give room to replace the
fuel pump. Open the trunk and remove carpeting to expose
the fuel pump cover. Disconnect all electrical wires that lead
into the pump. Remove the cover bolts with 10 mm heads.
Now that the cover is off, carefully disconnect the two quick
connect fuel lines that are connected to the fuel pump.
Remove the collar using tool number 9995485. Pull out
fuel slowly so as not to spill fuel everywhere. Install a
new fuel pump, Volvo Genuine Part number 9480152. If
the fuel pump is out for a time, make sure to temporarily
install the collar. Otherwise, the fuel tank could expand
due to the characteristics of the plastic tank.
After the new pump is installed, torque down the collar to
30 ft-lbs or 41 Nm. Connect both the pressure and return
lines, making sure to connect correctly. Attach electrical
connectors. Before buttoning up everything, connect the
battery and start the vehicle, making sure there are no leaks
and that the pressure is at the correct reading. Install the
cover over the fuel pump assembly and install the carpet.
DIAGNOSING WHEN NO CHECK
ENGINE LIGHT IS PRESENT
Diagnosing fuel problems can sometimes be tricky.
Suppose a customer comes in with a 2006 XC90 with
no Check Engine light but with the customer saying the
vehicle doesn’t have the same pickup as it used to. Well,
of course the first check will be to verify fuel pressure.
This is a good time to utilize VIDA. Connect VIDA to the
vehicle using DICE. Once the connection is secure, go to
Vehicle Communication and select Engine Control Module.
Go to Monitoring Systems Parameters and check fuel
pressure. Fuel pressure should be approximately 400 kPa.
Idle the vehicle and check fuel pressure. Increase RPMs
and continue to monitor fuel pressure. Does pressure
stay the same? Test drive the vehicle while hooked up to
VIDA, and see if pressure is the same under load. If not,
and if pressure becomes erratic, but at idle the pressure is
fine, the problem could be the fuel pressure sensor that is
connected at the fuel rail.
Replace the fuel pressure sensor with Volvo Genuine Part
number 31272730. Using a T25 Torx socket and ratchet,
unscrew and remove the sensor. Put a rag around the
sensor area to capture escaping fuel. Install a new fuel
pressure sensor making sure not to damage the O-ring
and tighten down. Attach the electrical connector and
start the vehicle.
Monitor the system again with VIDA. Is fuel pressure OK at
idle? How about while driving under a load? If fuel pressure
reads good and the vehicle runs well, mission accomplished.
Consult TJ 32739 for Volvo fuel pump issues.
On certain models, Volvo had a recall because of a fuel
smell and possible fuel leakage. This includes the 2001
to 2005 S80, the 2001 to 2004 V70, S60 and XC70,
and the 2003 to 2005 XC90.
These vehicles would be inspected at your local dealer.
The fuel pump would have to be exposed, and if the fuel
pump is leaking for any reason, the fuel pump would be
replaced at no charge to the customer.
Remember, the smell of raw fuel can always present the
hazard of fire in your shop or at the customer’s home or
place of business. So, always advise your customers to be
SUMMER 2019 23
V O LV O F U E L S Y S T E M S

safe and call you for a tow to your shop any

time they smell raw fuel.

REPLACING FUEL PUMP

I N A V O LV O X C 9 0 2 0 0 5
Once you know the fuel pump is the
problem, the fuel gauge has been hooked
up to Schraeder valve at injector rail and
confirms no fuel pressure, check to make
sure there is power and ground at fuel pump.
Now to replace the fuel pump.

First off, we will need to drain some of the

fuel out of the tank. This can be done by
inserting a hose into the fuel filler pipe and
using a suction device to extract fuel from
the fuel tank. Depending on how much is in Fuel Pressure Sensor
the fuel tank, remove as much as possible
into a fuel container.

Pull up the rear seat bottoms and remove the bolts

and take the seats out of the vehicle. Fold back the
carpet and expose both the fuel level sensor which
is on the left side, and the fuel pump assembly on
the right side. Remove the covers over the fuel pump
and level sensor. These are 10 mm small bolts. Mark
both the fuel pump assembly and the level sensor.
That way, both will go back together correctly.

Clean all debris, and blow out around both the fuel
pump assembly and the fuel level sensor so debris
doesn’t fall into the fuel tank. Disconnect the electri-
cal connector and hoses at the fuel pump. Discon-
nect the electrical connector at the level sensor.

Using special Volvo tool number 9995720, remove

the plastic collar around the fuel level sensor.

Pull out the level sensor, being careful not to bend

or damage the float. Disconnect the line going
back into the tank at the level sensor. Connect
some wire to the area that was disconnected at
the level sensor. Make sure the wire is long enough
to pull through the tank and out from the fuel
pump side.
Remove the collar around the fuel pump and pull out
slowly, catching any escaping fuel with a rag. Pull
completely out, and pull wires from the other side.
Connect the wire to the new pump wire and pull the wire
back through to the left side of the tank, making sure the
fuel pump assembly is in the correct position.
Screw the collar back on at the fuel pump side and
tighten to 60 Nm. Attach the electrical connector and fuel
lines making sure all are secure.
Using Volvo special tool number 9995720 to remove plastic collar
On the left side, remove the wire that was tied on that
ran through the tank. Connect the level sensor and its
electrical connector and insert it into the fuel tank, making
sure to line it up correctly. Tighten the collar nut. Add fuel
to the tank and start the engine, making sure there are no
fuel leaks of any kind.
Install the covers over the fuel pump assembly and the
level sensor. Lay the carpet back into place and install the
seats, then tighten down. Test drive the vehicle, making
sure performance is at its peak. •
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 2 4
 Volvo Cars recommends Castrol EDGE Professional

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authorized dealerships.

SUMMER 2019 25
Electronic Throttle Module (ETM)
Unlike the old butterfly mechanical throttle bodies, when
all you needed was a screwdriver to adjust the idle,
electronically controlled throttle modules started in 1999
for Volvo models S70, V70 AND XC70. Let’s go over
failure symptoms, how to clean, and how to replace an
Electronic Throttle Module (ETM) in a Volvo.
These are some of the symptoms of a faulty Electronic
Throttle Module in a 1999 to 2001 S70, V70, or XC70:
• Rough idle or stalling
• Idle hunting up and down when stopped at traffic lights
• ETS light is on
• Blowing ETM fuse
• Limp-home mode
• No communication with the ETM
When a customer comes in with one or more of these
symptoms, the first thing you should do is to hook up
VIDA and check for any codes in the system and also
monitor the Electronic Throttle Module (ETM) for any
unusual readings.
Disconnect the hose at the top charge air fitting for the
intercooler. Disconnect the relay electrical connectors
and set aside. Also disconnect the electric cooling fan.
Remove the evap valve from the shroud and move it out
of the way. Push the cooling fan assembly towards the
firewall and pull it straight up and out. Set the cooling fan
assembly to the side.
Using a 7 mm flexible hand tool, disconnect both clamps
at the hard plastic hose to throttle module to intercooler.
Disconnect the air sensor connector and MAP sensor
wire connector. Pop off both ends and remove them from
the vehicle.
The wire connector for the Electronic Throttle Module
harness runs behind the starter, so it will be necessary to
remove the bracket at the front of the starter to get it out.
With a 10 mm deep socket and ratchet, remove the four
bolts that hold the throttle module to the intake manifold,
and remove the throttle module from the vehicle.

If a vehicle comes in with the ETS light on and the car is
in Limp mode, it will likely exhibit very little response from
the accelerator. Limp mode is designed so that the car
does not come to a sudden halt and can still be driven at
low speed to a position of safety.
Clean the throttle module with cleaning agent Volvo
Genuine Part number 1161826 and a small brush. Make
sure to clean all surfaces, open the butterfly and clean the
edges. Carefully clean the complete area and wipe clean.
Do not use compressed air when cleaning.

There are a number of possibilities.

• The Electronic Throttle Module

can be cleaned and refitted. Electronic
• The Electronic Throttle Module Throttle
can be replaced with a new one. Module
• The Electronic Throttle system
can receive a software upgrade.

In some cases, removing the Electronic

Throttle Module and cleaning it can help
with the problem, depending on how much
buildup is blocking the butterfly.

REMOVING ETM
1 9 9 9 V O LV O C 7 0
First, remove the negative battery
terminal and set it aside. Remove the
fresh air hose to air cleaner assembly.
Remove the four screws at the top of
the cooling fan assembly. Remove
both oil and transmission
dipsticks, being careful not
to break them.
Install the throttle module with new gasket Volvo
Genuine Part number 31430474 and secure the throttle
module to the intake manifold. Connect the throttle
module electrical connector and route the harness back
into place. Secure the starter bracket. Install the plastic
pipe at the throttle module and at the intercooler and
tighten both clamps. Connect the electrical connectors
at the air and MAP sensors.
Set the cooling fan back into place. Connect all electrical
connectors to their original connectors. Secure the relay
at the shroud. Tighten down the four screws holding
the fan assembly in place with the shroud. Secure the
evap valve to the shroud. Connect the top hose at the
intercooler. Tie wrap the wires into place. Install the fresh
air hose to the air cleaner housing.
After cleaning the throttle module, if any problems occur it
might be necessary to replace the module and download
software to match the VIN number. If replacing use the
same method as cleaning.
In some instances, just updating the software may cure
all your problems. This can be checked by using VIDA.
Volvo vehicles affected include the 1999-2004 Volvo C70
and the 1999-2000 Volvo S70,V70 and XC70.
Fuse box main relay and B+ terminal
T RO U B L E S H O OT I N G
E L E C T RO N I C T H ROT T L E M O D U L E
If the ETM has been replaced and still the same problem
occurs or worse, a combination of any of the following
diagnostic trouble codes may be stored in the Engine
Control Module: ECM-902B, ECM-902A, ECM-903F, ECM-
912A, ECM-532D, ECM-9150. ECM-9160, ECM-951F. An
ETM sweep test graph may show faulty sensor readings.
C A U S E O F P R O B L E M I N A D E Q U AT E
C U R R E N T S U P P LY T O E T M
There are a few common areas that can cause significant
current loss: the engine management relay, the ETM relay
(only on 1999), the B+ terminal, or possibly a corroded
ETM power supply.
Check the fuse at the fuse box at the left strut tower; check
fuse #2 and replace if necessary. If this fuse is good check
the engine management relay. 1999 Volvo vehicles had an
ETM relay also. Replace both relays and check the vehicle.
If the system continues to have problems there might be a
problem with terminal B power supply. If the terminal looks
to be corroded or burnt it will need to be replaced.
To replace this harness, use Volvo Genuine Part number
8628771. Separate the fuse box and remove the 13 mm
nut that holds the cable to the fuse box. Remove the air
filter box. This harness runs from the battery to the fuse
box. Remove the plastic liner around the wire harness.
Install the new harness, connect it at the battery and at the
fuse box, and secure the harness. Snap the fuse box back
together and install the air filter housing. Start the vehicle
and make sure all codes are gone from the system. •
Harness connected at fuse box 13 mm nut
SUMMER 2019 27
 VOLVO MOONROOF/
SUNROOF SERVICE,
DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR
V O LV O C A L L S T H E M
MOONROOFS.
FOR THIS ARTICLE
WE WILL REFER TO
THEM AS SUNROOFS.

Volvo special tools

for doing this job.
Sunroof work is not for everyone; in a lot of cases, it can
be more of an art than a science.
But of course, these days, most automotive technicians
have to be both scientist and artist to work on some of
these modern cars. It also helps to be a wizard too.
Sunroof problems are not unique to Volvos and are not
always age-related.
Volvo has been offering slide and tilt type sunroofs on
their cars since the late ’70s. Most of the early sunroofs
were manually operated and were made from sheet metal,
not glass.
Plastic Parts
Today’s sunroofs are multi-functional and even multi-
sectional — some Volvos even have full-length sunroof
glass that covers almost the entire roofline of the car.
Consumers want more and more bells and whistles in their
cars, so don’t be surprised when we start seeing things like
electronically self-darkening glass and solar panels installed
in the roofs of future vehicles.
We all know that a lot of your customers rarely open their
sunroofs, but depending on where they live they may get
more use out of this extra hole in their roof than you think.
SERVICE
The key to a reliable sunroof is service, but
probably not the type of service you are thinking
of. Service on most Volvo sunroofs should be
done at least once a year and should consist of
checking function, cleaning out any loose debris,
and lubrication.
SUNROOF ISSUES
INNER SUNROOF SHADE
BINDING AND JAMMING
1999-2007
V 7 0 / XC 7 0 / S 8 0 / C 7 0 /
S 6 0 / XC 9 0
This is a common problem on older Volvos. The
problem is caused by the plastic parts of the
guide clips on the sides of the sunroof shade
deteriorating and causing the shade to come out
of its tracks.
After the customer has been moving the
shade back and forth often, the spring
steel guide clips can bend and cause the
shade to jam.
But that’s only the start of the trouble
that these damaged shade guides can
cause. The broken bits of plastic can
fall into the sunroof tracks and damage
parts. In some cases, the clips will bend
and cause physical damage to the soft
aluminum tracks.
If you get a Volvo in the shop with
this problem, you should recommend
replacement of the shade guides.
This is a fairly straightforward job. All
the tools you will need are a Torx T25
socket, a Torx T20 driver, and a small
flat tip screwdriver.
SUMMER 2019 29
MOONROOF/SUNROOF

Have someone help you carefully remove the sunroof glass

and lay it down somewhere safe.

REMOVING THE SUN VISOR/

INNER COVER
Start by putting the sunroof in the tilt position and
removing the side blinds.

Next, remove the four screws holding the sunroof glass to

the frame.

Have someone help you carefully remove the sunroof glass

and lay it down somewhere safe. Next, use the switch to
move the sunroof frame to the half open position.

Find the two T25 screws that attach the rear gutter
assembly; use some blue tape to protect the paint on the
roof while you remove the screws.

Use a flat tip screwdriver to gently pry off the rear gutter
arms away from the frame.

Next, pull the rear gutter forward so you can access the
four small T20 screws that hold the gutter channel to
the frame. T25 screws
that attach
When the four gutter screws are removed you can remove the rear
the gutter channel. gutter
assembly
With the gutter removed, you can pull out the sunroof
shade and replace the guide spring clips.
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 3 0
Pry off the
rear gutter
arms away
from the
frame.

Remove the gutter channel.

T20 screws
that hold the
gutter channel
Guide spring clips
to the frame

SUMMER 2019 31
MOONROOF/SUNROOF
In most cases, Volvo sunroofs have blinds covering the left
and right sides of the sunroof frames. You will have to remove
them to access the frame screws for adjustment and removal
of the sunroof glass. You should recommend new blinds if
they are cracked or damaged, in order to prevent broken
pieces from becoming jammed in the sunroof tracks.
Place the sunroof shade on a very clean work area
and remove the old spring clips. Use the new screws
provided with the clips and install four new ones.
The Volvo Genuine Part number is 9483170.
While the sunroof is apart, clean out the tracks and
lubricate the moving parts.
Put it all back together in reverse order and
recalibrate.
S U N R O O F W O N ’ T O P E R AT E
W I T H U E M 0 0 0 4 C O D E STO R E D
1999-2007 S60/V70/S80
In some cases, the sunroof can stop responding
to the switch when a car has a UEM 0004 active
fault code stored. This can be caused by a faulty or
internally shorted siren module.
This condition can cause the Upper Electronic
Module (UEM), which is responsible for the alarm
system and sunroof among other things, to shut
down the operation of the sunroof if the siren module
is malfunctioning.
The siren module has an internal battery that will go
bad after about 10 years or so of service. This can
cause the UEM to store the code UEM 0004.
If there are no other faults in the sunroof circuit,
replacement of the siren module in the right front
inner fender well will usually bring the sunroof back
on line.
On some of these Volvos, you can remove fuse #38 in
the passenger compartment (left of steering wheel).
This will isolate the alarm siren module. Lock/unlock
the car three times to reset. If the sunroof resumes
operation then you know that the replacement of the
siren module will fix the problem with the sunroof.
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 3 2
S U N R O O F R AT T L E S 1 9 9 9 - 2 0 0 3
S 8 0 / S 6 0 / V 7 0 / XC 7 0 / XC 9 0
Do you have a screw loose?
I guess all automotive technicians do, that’s why we do
this job.
The fact is, loose sunroof frame screws are one of the
most common problems seen in Volvo vehicles. This
condition is very common and can cause rattling and
misalignment of the sunroof glass. This is a minor problem
but, if not dealt with, the misalignment can cause bigger
problems like damage to the sunroof mechanism if the
customer uses the sunroof a lot.
In most cases, you will have to remove the sunroof side
blinds to access screws; this is best done with the sunroof
in the vent position.
Check the condition of the blinds. If they are cracked or dam-
aged, you should recommend that they be replaced because
they can come apart and get jammed in the sunroof tracks.
You could just realign the glass and tighten the four 3 mm
screws to 5 Nm. But Volvo recommends that you replace
the four existing screws with Volvo Genuine Part number
973155 and use four new washers (Volvo Genuine Part
number 120085).
If you go this route, start by moving the sunroof to the fully
closed position. Apply a minimal amount of thread sealant
Figure 1
(P/N 1161075) to the bottom half of the threads (first 3
mm of the screw), and carefully start the screws to prevent
cross threading.
The sunroof height adjustment is best done with the
sunroof in the fully closed position. Loosen the screws a
little and raise or lower the sunroof glass to achieve the
desired position and retighten the screws to 5 Nm. After
all four screws are started, torque the screws to 5 Nm. Do
not over tighten as this may distort the guide rails.
SUNROOF GLASS HEIGHT
ADJUSTMENT
When setting final closed height adjustment on the
sunroof glass, you should use the following as a guideline.
Molding must be flush within one mm of the roofline
when closed.
• Front edge:
The upper section of the glass should be set at one
mm under the roof panel (dimension A in “Figure 1”).
• Rear edge:
The upper section of the glass molding must be flush
with or one mm above the roof panel (dimension B in
“Figure 1”).
C A L I B R AT I O N
There will be many cases where recalibrating the sunroof
module may be needed, such as after adjustments, after
parts are replaced, or even when the battery has been
disconnected.
Here is the calibration method that will work on most
Volvo sunroofs from 1999-2008:
• The sunroof must be closed.
• Turn ignition key to position 2.
• Press the sunroof switch so that the sunroof is in the
tilt position.
• Release the switch.
• Press the switch (in the tilt position) again for at least
five seconds so that the sunroof flickers.
• Release the switch.
• The calibration is complete.
Note! If the sunroof has not moved to the correct
position, carry out calibration again.
Hint: If the sunroof has still not moved to the
correct position:
• Press the sunroof switch so that the sunroof moves
to the rearmost position (completely open).
• Release the switch.
• Press the switch (in the completely open position)
again for at least five seconds so that the sunroof
switch flickers.
• Release the switch.
• Close the sunroof and carry out calibration again. •
SUMMER 2019 33
 Volvo Sunroof case study:
2007 V50 Wagon with sunroof stuck
in the 80 percent closed position
The driver of this 2007 Volvo V50 brought the car into the With the
shop with the sunroof stuck in the partially opened position. motor
removed,
The customer stated they used the sunroof on a regular the
basis and it was working normally up until last week when technician
the driver attempted to close it and was unable to do so, was able
leaving the sunroof partially open. to push
the
The service adviser was told by the customer right before the
glass
sunroof broke it had been opening and closing slower. It was
backwards
after that the sunroof stopped short of closing fully, forcing
to the
the customer to seek repair as the sunroof would no longer
fully open
move back or forth.
position so
During the technician’s initial inspection of the car he found he could
that when he activated the sunroof switch the motor would inspect the
run but the sunroof glass would not move in any direction. tracks.

The service adviser got authorization from the customer to
drop down the headliner to access the sunroof motor and
inspect the sunroof cables and guides.
Because in most cases, if the motor is running and the
sunroof glass is not moving on a Volvo, it can be caused by
a stripped drive gear on the sunroof motor or stripped or
broken sunroof cables.
In the case of this Volvo, it was a different story.
The technician removed the sun visors and the main dome
light assembly that also houses the sunroof switch.
He then removed the trim seal around the sunroof opening.
This allowed him access to the sunroof motor assembly
mounting screws.
He removed the 3 screws and disconnected the motor’s
wire connector.
When the technician pulled the motor from the cable track,
the drive gear dropped out in two pieces.
The sunroof motor drive gear had split in half; this is not a
common problem in Volvos.
So why did the gear break?
The cables looked undamaged and intact so it must
have been caused by something jammed in the sunroof’s
tracks, right?
But to examine the sunroof’s tracks and hardware the tech will
have to put the glass in the vent, or at least the closed position,
to access the four screws that hold the glass in place.
In the case
of this
Volvo, there was no sign of damage or debris in the sunroof
tracks, so the technician manually closed the sunroof and
was able to remove the four screws that hold the glass to
the track assemblies.
After the glass was removed, the technician was able to
closely inspect the sunroof mechanisms, he was also able
to move the left and right cables back and forth to check
for binding.
The cables moved smoothly and the tracks were fairly clear
of debris except for the right side track which had some
ground up rock chips lying in the channel.
The technician cleaned out the debris and lubed the tracks
and hardware and then lined up the cables and guides into
the vent position and reinstalled the glass.
The technician then installed the new sunroof motor assembly
and reassembled the headliner and dome light assembly.
The technician then ran the sunroof through its paces, all ran
well, so why did the gear snap?
Well, after interviewing the customer the technician found out
that the customer regularly drives down a gravel road with
the sunroof in the vent position.
So the theory is that a small rock popped into the sunroof
rails and, when the customer tried to close the sticking
sunroof multiple times, pop snap bang.
The moral of this story is to expect the unexpected. In this
business you will see something new every day. •
V O LV O T E C H T I P S 3 4
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SUMMER 2019 35
A PARTNERSHIP FOR
SATISFIED VOLVO OWNERS
What’s the most important thing
that independent repair facilities
and Volvo retailers have in common?
We think it’s our shared commitment
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