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SPRING 2020

The SPECIAL ISSUE

Spring
Issue

COMPLIMENTS OF
Enjoy
40 % FEWER CALORIES
than a glass
of white wine*

*40% fewer calories per 1.5oz serving of Ketel One Botanical Spirit Drink (73 cal; 0g carbs)
and 3.5oz soda water than a 5oz serving glass of white table wine (CNF: 121 cal; 3.82 g carbs).
THE BOTANICAL SPRITZ
Mix 1.5oz of your favourite Ketel One Botanical.
Top with 3.5 oz of soda water.
Garnish with fresh fruits and herbs.

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.


“ The possibility of what we can accomplish
working alongside our people, partners,
and customers fills me with optimism.
This is only the beginning. ”

George Soleas
President and CEO of the LCBO

We’re bottling
something good.
It’s a new platform called the Spirit of Sustainability, which we’ll infuse into
everything we do. We’re going to make good decisions that improve the well-being
of everyone and everything we touch, because if we take care of today, we’ll have
plenty to cheers to tomorrow.

Read more about the Spirit of Sustainability starting on page 16.

Location Courtesy of Our Good Partner: Evergreen Brick Works


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OF THE
LAND
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ensure their delicious offerings — and the lands they’re grown on — are enjoyed
for generations to come.

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Featured products are available at select LCBO stores. Prices subject to change without notice.
*Vintages Essentials Collection is always available at many LCBO locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages-essentials
TABLE OF CONTENTS

56
Celebrate
the Season

Features
56
Celebrate the Season
By Victoria Walsh
An uncomplicated menu you can
be confident of pulling off—plus it’s
pretty in pastels for Easter or any
spring dinner party.

64
Coming to Terms
by Charlene Rooke
Puzzled by the differences between
organic, natural and biodynamic
on wine labels? We clear up the
confusion—and offer up great
choices for each style.

70
Milky Ways
By Christopher St. Onge
With all the milk substitutes making
their way into our fridges, we’ve
developed some delish dishes that
make great use of them in cooking.

ON THE COVER
Le Classique Cocktail, recipe
on page 98. Photography by
Darren Kemper.

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 7


TABLE OF CONTENTS

Departments
FOOD
47 farm to table
FORCES OF NATURE
By Jennifer MacKenzie
Shining a spotlight on just
a few of the Ontario farmers
making a real effort towards
sustainability— growing
nutritious food while taking
care of Mother Nature.

77 BETTER FOR YOU


RAISING THE BAR
By Marcella DiLonardo
Delicious, nutritious protein
bars are a snap to make and
perfect for toting along to
41
Waste Not,
stave off hangry moments. Want Not

91 BASICS
DOING LUNCH
By Eshun Mott
With a little planning and
prep on a Sunday, skip fast
food in favour of tasty healthy
lunches for the week ahead.

DRINK
35 Greener choices 85 GIFTING
SUSTAINABLE SIPS SPRING IT ON THEM!
By Chris Johns, Tara Luxmore and Charlene Rooke By Dré Dee
A tip of the hat to local winemakers, distillers and brewers A new season for socializing calls
tackling sustainability—look for the awesome results on for great new bottles to have on
LCBO shelves. hand or gift to your host.

41 TRENDS
WASTE NOT, WANT NOT
By Christine Sismondo

91 Bartenders are taking on a zero-waste approach too, using up


brines, overripe fruit and herbs in shrubs and syrups that add
zing to your cocktails.

In every issue 12
EDITOR’S NOTES
104
easy entertaining
15 PULL IT TOGETHER!
INSIDE SCOOP By Eric Vellend By Irene Matys
The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know. Decide to have the gang over at
the last minute? Assemble a few
103
RECIPE INDEX ingredients alongside the right
bottle and you’re ready to host!

8 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


Coming next issue
Available April 29
Cocktails for a Crowd
Serving drinks to the gang is a cinch
with big-batch recipes

Time to Celebrate
A crowd-pleasing seasonal menu
to honour any occasion

Soda Shoppe
Amp up your cocktails with fresh
new flavour twists

Mint Conditions
From appetizers to dessert, mint
freshens everything up

VP Marketing & Food Stylists Many of the products featured in this issue
Customer Intelligence Eshun Mott
Vanda Provato Christopher St. Onge are available to purchase online at lcbo.com.
Editor Prop Stylists
Jody Dunn Christine Hanlon
For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy
Catherine MacFadyen please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900.
Art Directors TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 800•361•3291.
Andrea McCrindle
Karen Lim
Shelly Shnier All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising
Cathy Cicchini agreement.
Contributors Food & Drink is published five times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario.
Contributing Editor
Dré Dee, Marcella DiLonardo, Volume 27, Number 3.
Charlene Rooke
Chris Johns, Anna Kohn, Tara Luxmore, Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre.
Publication Coordinators Jennifer MacKenzie, Irene Matys, Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs.
Leslie Bolter Brenda Morrison, Eshun Mott, Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521
Margot Blais Christine Sismondo, Christopher St. Onge, Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to:
Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh Food & Drink, 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4
Graphic Designers
ISSN 1195-5988
Dominique Patafio Publisher
Pat Turbach Wayne Leek Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.
Production Coordinator Advertising Sales Prices are subject to change without notice.
Judy Haverkort Kirby Miller, Beaches Media Services Cette publication est également disponible en français.

Publication Assistant kirby@beachesmediaservices.com


Piper MacFadyen
Production Assistant
Everton Smith

10 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


BEYOND
M AT E R I A L
EDITOR’S NOTES

Welcome to our
Spring issue!
For many years, “sustainability” was a glossary approach to some earth-
a buzzword—something you heard friendlier wine styles, breaking down
about and read about, but which left you what it means to be an organic, natural or
puzzling how you could possibly make biodynamic wine and suggesting which
a difference. Well, that thinking is so last bottles to try. On the cocktail side, we share
decade. A new generation is tackling the recipes from three sustainable cocktail
challenge head-on. They’re teaching us bars in Toronto that take a no-food-waste
that the only way to make a difference is approach to their mixology: read about
to start with yourself, and that making them and find their delicious cocktails
personal choices can and will dictate what on page 41.

PORTRAIT BY JAMES TSE


companies and governments do. Suddenly Making better choices for the
“sustainability” has changed from a planet tends to go hand in hand with
buzzword into a way of life. making better choices in what we eat.
We celebrate this new approach to how In “Raising the Bar,” on page 77, we
we live, eat, drink and shop in the pages offer easy, nutritious and inexpensive
of this issue. Starting with “Inside Scoop,” homemade takes on protein bars.
on page 15, we’re shining a spotlight on “Doing Lunch,” on page 91, demonstrates
Ontario chefs, merchants and producers how a little weekend prep leads to healthy
to demonstrate how small things can lunches for the week—and leaves less
make a difference. By showcasing zero- food to throw out at the end of it. And
waste grocery stores and zero-waste “Milky Ways,” on page 70, makes good use
@lcbofoodanddrink
restaurants—and offering tips for of all the alternative milks making their
shopping (what to buy and what to carry way into our refrigerators.
it in) and cooking (to avoid food waste)— We hope you enjoy this issue and that
we hope to get everyone thinking about (like us!) you’re inspired to include these
applying these practices at home.
We asked LCBO lcbofoodanddrink
ideas in your everyday life. We aim to make
In “Sustainable Sips” we delve a little
President and CEO
sustainability an ongoing component
deeper into what some Ontario wineries,
George Soleas to
of future issues of Food & Drink.
breweries and distillers are doing to
share what the LCBO
be better partners and stewards of the
is doing in support of
a more sustainable LCBO
environment. You’ll find that story on
page 35 and their products on LCBO
future. You can read
shelves. Starting on page 64, we take
all about the new
Spirit of Sustainability
platform starting
on page 16.

12 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


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Inside scoop
The latest bits, bites and sips to keep you in the know.
BY eric vellend | PHOTOGRAPHY by darren kemper and james tse

If you want to lighten your carbon


footprint, you can make a difference
24 by changing the way you eat, drink
and shop. From zero-waste grocery
stores and next-level recycling to
reducing food waste and more, here’s
a handy guide to sustainable living
at home.

16 A toast to
sustainability
20 The urge to splurge
20 Thinking outside
the blue box
20 What can I do with
zested oranges?
22 Bulking up
22 Everything but
the scales
24 Four reusable
shopping solutions
26 What can I do with
zested lemons?
20 26 Ace in the hole
26 Golden anniversary
26 Recycling 101

26 28 What do they mean?

Ace in the hole 28 More-ganic bottles


28 Scrappy chef

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 15


INSIDE SCOOP

We asked LCBO’s President & CEO George Soleas


to share more about the new Spirit of Sustainability
initiative.

Why is it so important to you that the LCBO


build on its legacy in this area?
I am proud of our past accomplishments but
saw an opportunity to make sure our social
responsibility efforts are focused and measurable.
Under Spirit of Sustainability, we will deliver on
our promise to support a sustainable future for
our business, industry, and the communities in
which we live and work. I want customers to feel
confident that the LCBO is pushing the industry
in a positive direction. The possibility of what we
can accomplish working together fills me with
optimism.

How will the LCBO give customers the oppor-


tunity to make more sustainable choices?
Today’s customers are well-informed, and we want
to help guide them toward choices aligned with
their values. Providing information—including
where a product comes from, how it is grown
and how it impacts the soil and the environ-
ment—is something we will be doing much more
of in-store and online.

How is the LCBO encouraging suppliers to be


more sustainable?

A toast to
Sustainable practices are expected of our supply
partners. The entire industry is moving in a more
sustainable direction and it is an exciting time.
The LCBO pioneered the transition to lightweight

sustainability glass, which is often referred to outside our borders


as the “Canada bottle.” Lighter bottles mean
reduced carbon emissions, and we are working
alongside our suppliers and partners to expand
At the LCBO, sustainability is more than a buzzword. It’s a commitment that
will benefit everything from the lives of our customers to the health of the planet. this program to include more products. We will
Learn more about this new LCBO initiative called Spirit of Sustainability. also celebrate the work and stories of our partners,
who are making great strides to operate in a
sustainable manner, so that others are motivated
The LCBO is no stranger to sustain- As one of the largest purchasers of
to follow suit.
ability. Social responsibility has been alcohol in the world, the LCBO feels we
at the core of our mandate for more have a responsibility to lead by exam-
than 90 years. But as times change, ple, improve the sustainability of our How will the LCBO improve the well-being
one must adapt and grow. That’s why industry, and set new standards for our of its communities?
we have developed a new platform to partners. With Spirit of Sustainability, We will continue to support charities by activating
engage our customers, partners and not only will we increase our focus on the power of our network to raise needed funds.
employees on our journey to making the health of the planet, we will do the This spring we are partnering with Evergreen
the world a better place. It’s called the same for the well-being of our employ- Canada, a not-for-profit dedicated to finding urban
Spirit of Sustainability. ees and communities, and encourage development opportunities to make our cities
others to do the same. more green, liveable and prosperous.

16 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


Y E
now available for t e olidays

and all t e days in-between


INSIDE SCOOP

Sustainability
in Action
Good People, Good Planet, Spirit of Sustainability has
been in the works for a while.
Here are some examples:

Good Partnerships
Spirit of Sustainability is made up of three key pillars to support building a more sustainable future.
Good People focuses on improving the well-being of our customers, employees and communities.
Good Planet aims to minimize our impact on the environment. Good Partnerships will improve the
sustainability of the industry through leadership. It expanded its industry-
With these three pillars, the LCBO has developed firm commitments that will ensure we deliver leading Lightweight Glass
on our promise to build a sustainable future. program to include more
bottles sold at the LCBO.
This policy helps reduce our
Good People Good Planet Good carbon footprint through
Partnerships more sustainable distribution.
• Safe and informed consumption • Sustainable stores
• Thriving communities • Sustainable production and • Leading sustainability
distribution standards
• Engaged employees
• Greener buildings • Support and recognize
sustainable partners

Sometimes products get


To find out more about Spirit of Sustainability, damaged in transit. But
visit lcbo.com/sustainability instead of throwing away
the entire pallet, undam-
aged goods are rescued and
repackaged in recyclable
4- and 6-packs, helping to
Community impact reduce waste.

Fundraising Safe and informed consumption


The incredible generosity of LCBO customers To demonstrate our commitment to safe and
set a new fundraising record in 2019 of more informed consumption, the LCBO created the
than $12.7 million dollars. With Spirit of Sustain- Responsible Service Program. Through this
ability, charitable efforts will have an even big- program, we will amplify our work preventing
ger impact. We will be welcoming new charity alcohol consumption amongst minors and those As an official partner of Pride
Toronto 2019, the LCBO
partners as we move to centre our fundraising who appear intoxicated, in order to build safer
created #ToastToPride, a cam-
initiatives around four campaigns, Environmen- communities for all Ontarians. The LCBO is
paign to promote diversity
tal Impact, Safe and Informed Consumption, dedicated to increasing awareness of our Lab, and inclusion and to fundraise
Support Local, and Community Well-being. We a product testing and innovation department. almost $1 million to support
will continue to provide customers with alterna- This industry-leading facility conducts 630,000 equitable and compassionate
tive ways of donating through in-store merchan- tests on more than 7,000 products each year in healthcare for marginalized
dise and offering online giving on LCBO.com. order to ensure that everything we sell is safe. communities.

18 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


INSIDE SCOOP

TRENDSPOTTING

Thinking outside the blue box

PORTRAIT BY RACHEL SIMPSON; TERRACYCLE SHOT COURTESY OF TERRACYCLE; CITRUS BY ISTOCK.COM/STUDIOCASPER; LETTUCE BY ISTOCK.COM/CHVIROJ; ROOT VEGETABLES BY ISTOCK.COM/BDMCINTOSH
Just because it doesn’t go in the recycling bin doesn’t mean
it can’t be recycled. TerraCycle Canada offers recycling of
THE ENDORSEMENT everything from cereal bags, to makeup containers, even
cigarette butts. Some brand-specific programs are free,
The urge while other more comprehensive recycling boxes require

to splurge a fee. Visit terracycle.com and get started!

Alida Solomon, chef-owner of


Tutti Matti (tuttimatti.com) in Toronto,
uses 90 percent organic produce at her
acclaimed Tuscan restaurant. Here,
she dishes on why certain fruits and
vegetables are worth the organic premium:

Citrus
“We buy organic citrus from California all
year round. We use the skins, and there is
not as much wax on organic. Plus the fruit
itself is way tastier.”

Lettuces
“Organic lettuce is not overwatered, and
the more the plant suffers, the better it
will get. You won’t get the same quantity;
you get a better quality. Those hydroponic
lettuces don’t taste like anything.”

What can I do with


Root Vegetables
zested oranges?
“They’re just sweeter, and they tend to When you’re left with denuded oranges after a few rounds of Negronis,
be a lot smaller. You know how there are the simplest way to enjoy them is with a glass of fresh squeezed o.j. the next
those giant parsnips and celery roots? morning. Or use them up in our Moroccan-style Orange Salad with dates,
You don’t get that with organic.” almonds and mint (recipe at lcbo.com/fdspring20).

20 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


IT STARTS

APEROL + PROSECCO + SODA

Please Enjoy Responsibly. APEROLCANADA APEROLCANADA


INSIDE SCOOP

SMART SHOPPING

Bulking up
Inspired by Bea Johnson’s book Zero Waste Home, Valerie
Leloup plunged headfirst into the zero-waste lifestyle. The
challenges were immediately apparent.
“Grocery shopping was really difficult,” she says.
“I was going to five or six places. Bringing my own con-
tainers, I always had to explain and negotiate. It was very
cumbersome.”
She saw an opportunity to open a zero-waste grocery
store in Ottawa, and partnered with Sia Veeramani, a fellow
zero-waster who was independently working on a similar
business plan. The duo opened Nu (nugrocery.com) in 2017,
where everything from nuts to vinegar—even toothpaste—
is sold by bulk. Customers bring their own containers or
borrow them from the store and weigh them at a tare
station before filling up.
The store also makes a concerted effort to reduce
waste on the supply side.
“We do packaging exchanges with every supplier in a
radius of 30 kilometres,” says Leloup. “Honey, maple syrup,
cleaning supplies come in a pail, and we return the empty
pail.”
Nu has been such a big hit that Leloup and Veeramani
opened a second location in the Old Ottawa East neigh-
bourhood late last year. As for people interested in the
zero-waste lifestyle, Leloup recommends starting slowly.
“My Number One tip is to go step-by-step. You don’t
have to do it all at once. Use what you have first then switch.”

The love child of bulk stores


and natural food shops,
zero-waste grocery stores are Other Zero-Waste Stores
popping up across the province.
Bring your own containers, Zero Waste Bulk (zerowastebulk.com), Waterloo
eliminate packaging and keep Unboxed Market (unboxedmarket.com), Toronto
the planet happy. Refillery District (refillerydistrict.ca), Orillia

HEAD TO TAIL

NU IMAGES BY ERIC STOLPMAN; FISH © SIGMA1850/ADOBE STOCK


Everything What are some of the
ways you use up fish
What are some
ways that people
You often see
salmon heads sold
Any other tips on
minimizing seafood

but the scales and seafood scraps


at your shops?
can make the most
of their seafood
for next to nothing
at fish counters.
waste at home?
It’s best to buy smaller
There are the obvious at home? What can people quantities more often
Kristin Donovan, co-owner of
ones like making Freeze shrimp shells do with them? rather than buying for
Hooked (hookedinc.ca)—a mini
chain of sustainable fishmongers stocks and soups. We and save them for Save for stock, or roast the week. Store live
in Toronto and Halifax—shares her also use scraps for stock or add them to separately—fish heads shellfish (mussels,
tips on minimizing seafood waste burgers, fish cakes and existing fish stock for contain a tonne of clams, etc.) in a bowl
at home. pâtés, or just marinate more flavour. Fry up delicious meat in the covered with a damp
them and use them in fish skins separately collar, cheeks, every cloth. Store fish at
a stir-fry or salad for and break up over nook and cranny. So the back of the fridge
a staff meal. a salad or reserve great if you’re a picker where it is coldest.
for pets. like me.

22 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


INSIDE SCOOP
Liquid assets
THE SECOND R The LCBO’s durable,

4 reusable
leakproof, reusable
bag collection features
strong handles and

shopping includes a shopping


bag ($1.95) for beer cans
and gift packs, plus two-

solutions and six-pocket bags


($1.50 and $1.95) for
wine and spirits. Take
them grocery shop-
Sustainable shopping goes ping too! Handy for
glass bottles and jars.
beyond the groceries you Available at most LCBO

buy. Ditch single-use plastic in stores and lcbo.com.

exchange for your own reusable


bags and containers; you can
make a world of difference.
By Brenda Morrison
8 IN 1

Starter kit
In the produce aisle, the
bulk food section and
the check-out lane, make
the switch from plastic
bags to reusable ones
with this eight-piece
Ever Eco Organic Cotton
Zero Waste Shopping
Set ($49.95), featuring
mesh bags for fruits and
veggies, muslin storage
bags for dry goods and
long-handle tote bags.
Available at Indigo and
indigo.ca.

Farm-to-fridge
Homeward bound For picking up a pint of berries from the
farmer’s market or even a roadside stand,
Like high-quality luggage, Reisenthel’s Shopping this reusable 3-piece Hutzler Berry Box
Collection is worth investing in. Featuring its iconic ($19.99) features a colander for rinsing
carrybag, carrycruiser and allrounder rucksack—these that fits inside the serving box. Plus it
pieces are designed for travel, heavy loads and elimi- comes with a lid designed for keeping
nating any need for plastic bags. Each piece is sold fruit fresher longer. Available at Kitchen
separately, from $85 at Menu, Toronto (416 •222•2474). Stuff Plus and kitchenstuffplus.com.

24 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


INSIDE SCOOP

GOLDEN
ANNIVERSARY
April 22, 2020
50th Anniversary
of Earth Day

To learn about a new initiative


to reduce our food system’s
impact on climate change, visit
foodprints.earthday.org.

THE BASICS

Recycling 101
Municipal recycling programs
are being overwhelmed with
stuff that doesn’t belong in
their bins—by some estimates,
it’s one-third. Check with your

What can I do with city first, but here are some


items to keep out of recycling:

zested lemons? • Food and organic


waste—i.e. rinse your
Lemon juice has seemingly endless applications in the kitchen, both containers!
savoury and sweet. It sharpens vinaigrettes and tahini sauce. It brightens • Black plastic
creamy pastas and buttery pan sauces for seafood. And for dessert, use it
in our rich and gooey Lemon Squares (recipe at lcbo.com/fdspring20). • Disposable coffee
cups
• Single-serve coffee
and tea pods
CONSCIENTIOUS BREWS
• Compostable plastic
Ace in the hole bags
Whether it’s cleaning up the local James River or funding • Aluminum foil wrap
a water well project in Nine Mile, Jamaica, Virginia brewer • Waxed cardboard
Lickinghole Creek supports clean water initiatives around
the world. To enjoy beer with a conscience, try citrusy • Packing peanuts
Lickinghole Creek Nine Mile IPA (LCBO 634139, 473 mL, • Bubble wrap
$3.90) or chocolatey Lickinghole Creek Heir Apparent Mexican
Spiced Imperial Stout (LCBO 617472, 473 mL, $4.40). • Drinking glasses
• Window glass
• Light bulbs
Shop online for products. • Coat hangers

26 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


INSIDE SCOOP

BURNING QUESTION SUSTAINABLE SPIRITS

What do they More-ganic bottles


mean?
Want to become a more eco-conscious shopper?
Here are three symbols to look for.

ECOLOGO
Found on everything from fur-
niture to cosmetics, this symbol
means the product meets strict
environmental standards for its
entire life cycle, from manufac-
turing to disposal.

FOREST STEWARDSHIP
COUNCIL
Whether you’re buying toilet pa-
per or a book, the FSC symbol is
an assurance that a paper prod-
uct (including this magazine!) was
made from responsible sources
that follow rigorous environmen-
tal and social standards.

OCEAN WISE We’re talking about local, sustainable producers on page 36, but here are a few organic
This symbol means you are buy- options on the spirit shelves from outside Ontario. Made in Minnesota from organic corn,
ing seafood that was caught or smooth and silky Prairie Organic Vodka (LCBO 638189, $39.95) is excellent in a Martini,
farmed in a way that ensures the and Leyenda Tlacuache Organic Mezcal (LCBO 275420, $79.30) will give a smoky boost
long-term health of that species to agave-based cocktails.
and its ecosystem as a whole.

KITCHEN HACKS
When he and his wife, Tamara to flavour dressings. Squash coffee grinder and decided
Scrappy chef Jensen, opened Dispatch
in St. Catharines last year
trimmings are dehydrated,
ground and worked into pasta
to save it up to make cof-
fee-flavoured horchata for a
While most chefs avoid food waste as a (dispatchrestaurant.com), min- dough. He even figured out a tequila-based cocktail.
cost-saving measure, for Adam Hynam-Smith imizing waste at the restau- delicious way to use up brine As for reducing food
the reasons run much deeper. rant became an obsession. from fermenting Brussels waste at home, Hynam-Smith
“I can’t relax knowing sprouts; it’s reduced by half, says meal planning helps
what our footprint is,” says sweetened with caramel then him use ingredients more
Hynam-Smith. “It means being finished with duck fat. efficiently. He also stresses
more thoughtful, doing things “What do we usually serve the importance of including
PORTRAIT BY BRILYNN FERGUSON

differently, and not being with Brussels sprouts?” he asks. kids in the kitchen, which
afraid to experiment.” “Bacon. And this sauce has the builds respect for food from
The Australian-born chef same salty, sweet, rich profile.” a young age.
began to “question everything” The zero-waste mantra “Do a big cook-up on the
and found innovative ideas extends to the bar, where gen- weekend with the whole fam-
to use every scrap of food. eral manager Michael Kapusty ily and then you’re set for the
Brown papery onion skins are works on equally clever ideas. week. Cooking shouldn’t be
burnt, powderized and used He uses rice to clean out the stressful; it should be fun.”

28 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


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ADVERTISING FEATURE

Everything old is

NEW AGAIN
Did you know some LCBO stores are housed in restored heritage buildings with
fascinating pedigrees? Here are four whose history, architecture and broad product
selection make them a worthy destination for a spring shopping trip.

10 Scrivener Sq. (Yonge & Summerhill)


Canada’s largest liquor store, LCBO’s Summerhill location was once Toronto’s main railway station. Built in 1916 from limestone quarried
in Manitoba, the grand station featured a terminal with 38-foot ceilings, marble interior walls, and a 140-foot clock tower modelled on
the bell tower in Venice’s Piazza San Marco. When Union Station opened in 1930, the North Toronto Railway Station was repurposed as
a retail space (LCBO moved in in 1940). In 2002, the building was restored and its unique architectural features were incorporated into
the store’s design. The impressive space – with soaring ceilings and original bronze light fixtures – features 5,000 brands spread over
20,000 square feet, an extensive Vintages section, a fill-your-own craft-beer growler station, an event room, and a tasting bar where
you can try before you buy.

1 VINTAGES
87 Front St. E. (Front & Jarvis)
On the corner of Market Street, this LCBO is housed in a red-brick
building originally erected for grain traders Edward Leadley & Co.
in 1858. In its heyday, because of its proximity to the harbour, the
neighbourhood served as Toronto’s commercial hub; Market Street
was home to a hotel and several office buildings, including a six-storey
one considered a high-rise when it was built at the turn of the 20th
century. Today, key architectural features of the restored Leadley
building – such as exposed brick walls and mullioned windows –
are integrated into the modern interior, which extends south into a
neighbouring building. This 7,000-square-foot LCBO location carries
over 3,200 brands and is just steps from St. Lawrence Market and a
short walk from Union Station.

111 St. Clair Ave. W. (St. Clair & Avenue)


Opened in 2015, this LCBO location occupies the ground floor of the
former Imperial Oil headquarters, a landmark 1957 building whose
design was originally a contender for Toronto’s new city hall. Back in the
day, the top floor of the 21-storey structure was the highest point in
Toronto and, on clear days, offered views of the spray from Niagara
Falls across Lake Ontario. Built using welded-steel framing (vs. riveted,
which would have subjected local residents to increased construction
noise), Imperial Plaza, as it’s now known, was the largest all-welded
steel-frame building in the world. Still boasting the lobby’s original
marble walls and acclaimed artist R. York Wilson’s Story of Oil mural,
this bright, 3,800-square-foot LCBO features over 1,000 brands,
a dedicated Vintages section, a tasting bar and 50 underground
parking spots.

49 Spadina Ave. (Spadina & Front)


Our newest flagship store, this LCBO opened last July in a former
warehouse built in 1913 for the Steele Briggs Seed Company.
The handsome five-storey red-brick structure, also known as the
Clarence Square Building, sat in an area dominated by railroads
and had its own siding for efficient shipping; the train tracks are
still visible on the building’s south side. Today, this almost-11,000-
square-foot store carries almost 2,000 brands and features a large
Vintages section, a tasting bar, and a same-day pickup counter for
online orders. The original wooden support beams were integrated into
the design, adding a heritage note to the contemporary interior.
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Spring is the season of renewal. And as the days grow brighter and warmer,
it’s only natural to reinvigorate your palate too. For fresh flavours that speak to
the season’s crisp, refreshing character, make Open Wines your go-to for spring
entertaining. Open’s portfolio of crowd-pleasing sippers, from zesty whites to
plummy reds, beautifully harmonize with seasonal classics, from hearty lamb
to succulent asparagus. You know you’re getting the best of Ontario, with each
of these selections bearing the VQA stamp of approval.

Happy spring!

Open Pinot Grigio VQA Open Sauvignon Blanc VQA Open Smooth Red VQA
LCBO LCBO LCBO
628404 | 750 mL | $12.95 178681 | 750 mL | $12.95 357145 | 750 mL | $13.45
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With aromas and flavours of Wonderfully intense notes This consistently delicious blend
lemon, pear and melon, this of melon, fresh-cut grass and is full of crushed red berry, plum
crisp classic is lovely with gooseberry make this aromatic and spice flavours, with just a
seafood, roasted chicken white a standout. Try it as a touch of sweetness. Excellent
or appetizers. sipper or with grilled asparagus. with juicy burgers.
32367
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32566
GREENER CHOICES

Steam Whistle
Brewing
TORONTO, ON | STEAMWHISTLE.CA

Know what you’re drinking; Steam Whistle


lists all its ingredients on each can and bottle.

Since opening more than 10 years ago, Steam


Whistle Brewery in Toronto has won a bevy of
accolades for its environmental initiatives. Powering
its delivery trucks with renewable fuel, harness-
ing the cold depths of Lake Ontario to cool off
buildings with Enwave’s Deep Lake Water Cooling
system, and reducing waste from events by sending
leftover edibles to Toronto’s largest street mission,
the brewery continues to find ways to reduce its
footprint while treating the environment with care.
Steam Whistle has also made it easier for
employees to get to work by bike, providing
showers, towels and covered bike racks on-site.
STEAM WHISTLE IMAGE COURTESY OF STEAM WHISTLE CRAFT BREWING COMPANY

Plus it has built bike-repair stations in more than


30 communities across the country.

WET YOUR WHISTLE


Sustainable sips Steam Whistle’s two clean, crisp and refreshing
beers are brewed to the standards of the Bavarian
Purity Act of 1516. Revisit the classic pilsner, housed
in green bottles that can be reused almost three
Do you shop at a local farmers’ market, select organic times more than the standard brown beer bottle.
Or try Steam Whistle Pale Ale, an amber-hued brew
produce and dairy—and also wonder what goes into with hints of earthy and citrusy hop flavours.
your favourite beer, wine or spirit? These Ontario
producers not only make tasty beverages, they pride Steam Whistle Premium Pilsner
LCBO 547646, 6 pk, $14.50
themselves on earth-friendly practices, too. Here’s how
Steam Whistle Pale Ale
to do good and taste goodness at the same time. LCBO 12041, 473 mL, $3.25

By Tara Luxmore, Charlene Rooke and Chris Johns


photography by darren kemper

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 35


SUSTAINABLE SIPS

Distilling wisdom
Ontario spirit makers are installing “smart”
irrigation systems and solar panels, planting
trees and reusing hot water—easing the load
on resources as they go.

Distilling can be a resource-intensive process,


which Ontario spirit makers are working to
counter. For instance, many—including Still
Waters in Concord (makers of Stalk & Barrel
whiskies)—try to reuse as much of the hot
water from the distilling process as possible.
Because spirits are distilled from agri-
cultural products—potatoes and grains, for
instance—sustainability starts on the farm.
Viritus Organic Vodka is Certified Organic
and is made using 100-percent organic
Canadian corn.
Beattie’s Vodka is made on an Alliston
potato farm that uses water from an on-site
well, has a “smart” irrigation system for crop
watering, and uses eco-friendly features such
MOO-RE VODKA!
as solar panels and thermal heating. An inedible waste product
Kinsip House of Fine Spirits, which is from Ontario dairy farms,
nestled in Prince Edward County and limits the unused sugars called
chemical spraying on the grains it grows there, milk permeate, are turned
recycles its spent-grain mashes as feed at a into deliciously smooth,
local dairy farm. And all of its tasting-room gluten-free vodka using a
bottles are reused to hold products by process that requires half
Harrowsmith’s Farmacy Bath & Beauty. the energy of traditional
That’s not all: Top Shelf Distillers, makers distilling. Using lighter,
of Reunion Moonshines, expects to plant up Ontario-made glass
to 300,000 trees in Ontario this year through reduces the footprint of
its #moretrees initiative (look for the logo its unique bottle, too.
displayed on bottles at the LCBO).
Vodkow
LCBO 11573, $36.00

Shop online for products.

King’s Lock Craft Distillery The King’s Lock


KING’S LOCK IMAGE BY DIVERSE DESIGNS
JOHNSTOWN, ON | KLCRAFTDISTILLERY.CA energy tab is
equal to or below
Spent organic corn and rye grains from this distillery (all sourced many average
from within 75 kilometres) go back to local farms to feed dairy household bills.
cattle or fertilize land. Renewable electricity and natural gas come
from Bullfrog Power, a Canadian company specializing in renew-
able and low-impact energy solutions. The distillery has carbon-
footprint-reducing features like LED lighting and in-floor heating,
and completes processes such as bottling and labelling by hand
instead of by machine, to minimize energy use.

36 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


Bring home your favourite coffee from the grocery store
and make it a Saturday – or Sunday – to savour.

Visit myStarbucksweekend.com
to discover new ways to enjoy coffee.
©2020 Starbucks® and the Starbucks logo are registered trademarks of Starbucks Corporation used under license by Nestlé. All rights reserved.
SUSTAINABLE SIPS

MILLING ABOUT
Last year, Mill Street committed to reducing its
energy consumption and water usage by 10 per-
cent, a goal they exceeded in both categories.
Raise a glass of Canada’s most popular (and
Green beer
oldest) organic Lager or try the fuller-flavoured
Planting thousands of trees, reducing
Tankhouse Organic Ale. The female-led team
waste and returning clean water to their
at Brickworks Ciderhouse sends apple pomace local environments, these breweries walk
to local farms for feed and recently planted a
the talk.
pollinator garden; a sip of its Mint & Basil Cider
transports you to a herb garden in full bloom. Water might be beer’s least-talked-about
ingredient, but breweries use a lot of it.
Mill Street Original Organic Lager
LCBO 247627, 473 mL, $3.30
Reducing waste and returning clean water
to the local environment are top of mind
Brickworks Ciderhouse Mint & Basil for breweries like Sawdust City Brewing
LCBO 900324, 473 mL, $4.25 Co. in Gravenhurst and Bench Brewing Co.
Mill Street Tankhouse Ale in Beamsville, which have both installed
LCBO 399162, 473 mL, $3.30 BRU Clean systems from Toronto-based
Econse Water Purification Systems Inc.
The employee-owned and -operated
Beau’s All-Natural Brewing in Vankleek Hill
was the first Ontario beer maker to earn
Certified B Corporation certification in
2013. Becoming a B Corp isn’t easy: B Lab,
a non-profit that operates globally, verifies
that businesses meet stringent require-
ments demonstrating their positive social
and environmental impacts. High Park
Brewery in Toronto and Ernest Cider Co. in
Aurora have now joined the B Corp ranks.
Planting trees is one way Kenora’s
Lake of the Woods Brewery gives back
to its community. Partnering with the
First-Nations-owned Miisun Integrated
Resource Management Company, it has
planted 10,000 trees in three years.
Another Northern Ontario brewery,
Sleeping Giant Brewing Co. in Thunder
Bay, works with EcoSuperior Environ-
mental Programs to encourage land
stewardship on Lake Superior’s shores by
using sustainable packaging and holding
trash-cleanup events.

Cowbell Brewing Co.


BLYTH, ON | COWBELLBREWING.COM On average,
it takes 10 glasses COWBELL IMAGE BY AUSTIN CHAFFE

of water to make
When Grant Sparling, Cowbell’s chief development officer, is
a single pint of
asked why sustainable practices are so deeply ingrained in the
beer.
ethos and actions of the brewery, it comes down to one word:
family. For generations, the Sparlings have built family-focused busi-
nesses with a commitment to giving back to their largely agricultural
community in western Ontario. With achievements like constructing
North America’s first carbon-neutral brewery, and its no-impact on-
site waste-water treatment, Cowbell continues to lead the way with
new initiatives. Up next: a zero-waste kitchen program.

38 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


Local Harvest
Winemakers in Ontario tackle sustain-
ability with solar power, geothermal
heating and cooling, and more—plus
in 2017 they established an accredited
certified-organic program.

Ontario’s wineries are as creative as


they are progressive when it comes
to sustainability. In 2001, Frogpond
Farm became the first certified organic
winery in the province and, like other
organic producers (including Karlo
Estate, Sandbanks, Hidden Bench,
Calamus, Reif, Flat Rock and Cave
Spring), its wines are also vegan.
In 2008, Southbrook Vineyards
gained organic certification and became
Canada’s first biodynamic-certified
vineyard. Its visitor centre uses half
the energy of most comparably sized
BIG ECO buildings and is LEED (Leadership in
Energy and Environmental Design)
An icon of sustainable winemaking in
Ontario, Malivoire’s lush, vibrant Chardon-
Gold certified. Hinterbrook’s winery
nay is made using sustainable practices is 100-percent solar-powered, while the
both in the vineyard and the winery, as temperature of the winery and barrel
well as by the principles of the Oregon- cellar are maintained with geothermal
based Low Impact Viticulture and Enology heating and cooling.
program (known as LIVE). Created in 2007, the Sustainable
Winemaking Ontario program was
Malivoire Chardonnay VQA expanded to become an accredited,
VINTAGES 573147, $19.95 certifiable program in 2017. Look for
its logo (a green leaf with the words
Sustainable Winemaking Ontario
Certified) on bottles from the 13 Ontario
wineries that are fully certified.

Stratus Vineyards
Ontariocraft
NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE, ON | STRATUSWINES.COM wineries.ca lists
STRATUS IMAGE BY MATTHEW PLEXMAN

current Certified
Sustainable
The world’s first LEED-certified winery,
Winemaking
Stratus Vineyards made a commitment to a
Ontario brands.
sustainable vision on day one. All aspects of
its operation—from the unique, pumpless
wine-flow system (which reduces electricity
consumption) to the geothermal wells that
enable the cellar to maintain an ideal tem-
perature—strive for minimal environmental
impact.

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 39


Please Enjoy Responsibly. ©2020 Campari Canada.
TRENDS

Le Classique

Recipe on page 98

An eco-friendly twist on
the French 75 Champagne
cocktail, Le Classique owes
its brilliant punchy tang to
Lemon Oleo-Saccharum—
a syrup used by bartenders
to unlock all the hidden
flavour in old citrus peels.
This cocktail recipe comes to
us from Supernova Ballroom
(supernovaballroom.com),
the disco-themed, sustain-
able cocktail bar opened by
international bar stars Kelsey
Ramage and Iain Griffiths
in Toronto last fall. When it
comes to putting waste to
good use, these pros were way
ahead of the curve. Before set-
tling down to open Supernova,
they spent a couple of years
on the road with their global
zero-waste cocktail pop-up
tour that inspired bartenders
in 18 countries to stop tossing
all that flavour in the bin.

Waste not, want not


TRY WITH…
Bring to your drinks the same no-waste awareness we
Courvoisier VS Cognac
apply to food, using up brines, overripe fruit and herbs in shrubs LCBO 1925, $60.95

and syrups that’ll add great flavour to your cocktails. Taittinger Brut Réserve
Champagne
By Christine Sismondo | photography by darren kemper LCBO 365312, $60.95

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 41


WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

YOU CAN’T BRING


FLAT CHAMPAGNE
BACK FROM THE
DEAD, BUT YOU
CAN GIVE IT
SECOND LIFE AS A The method for making
COCKTAIL SYRUP. champagne syrup
works with any leftover
wine, including sherry
and vermouth!

POMPELMO
SPRITZ

This low-octane, cheeky aper-


itivo gets its dash of gentle
sweetness from Champagne
syrup—a trick for reusing
flat fizz that we learned from
Massimo Zitti, owner of
Mother (motherdrinks.co),
a super-green cocktail bar on
Toronto’s Queen West strip.

1 oz Cynar
1 1⁄2 oz fresh ruby red
grapefruit juice
1⁄2 oz fresh lime juice
1⁄2 oz Champagne Syrup
(recipe on page 98)
Ice cubes
3 oz soda water
Grapefruit slices

1 Pour Cynar, grapefruit juice,


lime juice and Champagne
Syrup into a cocktail shaker.
Add 5 ice cubes and shake well
for 30 seconds.

2 Strain cocktail into Collins


glass filled with ice cubes.
Add soda water. Garnish with
thin slices of grapefruit. Serve
immediately.

Makes 1 drink

42 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


The fizzy red wine to
with friends & family!

ITALIAN PECORINO &


PIZZA ASIAN CUISINE TERRINES
CHARCUTERIE PARMIGIANO

Serve it , or ! CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI


DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013
CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING
TO EU REG. NO. 1308/2013
WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

Wasted herbs are a problem for


THERE’S STILL home bartenders, since they’re
PLENTY OF
FLAVOUR HIDING always sold in such large quantities.
IN WILTED MINT Turning them into a tasty syrup
LEAVES AND is the perfect solution.
STEMS.

Mojaxaca

Named after the Mojito and


Oaxaca, where mezcal comes
from, this crossover drink gets
a flavour boost from a herb
syrup shared by Becky Ip and
Ryan Ringer, owners of Grey
Tiger (greytiger.ca), a Toronto
cocktail bar that’s been
upcycling its tired herb leaves
and stems into teas and syrups
since it opened four years ago.

2 oz mezcal
1⁄2 oz Herb Stem Syrup
(recipe on page 98)
1 oz fresh lime juice
6 mint leaves
6 ice cubes
3 oz spicy nonalcoholic ginger
beer (Grace and Fever-Tree
are good brands available
in many grocery stores)
1 sprig mint for garnish

1 Pour mezcal, Herb Stem


Syrup, lime juice and mint
leaves into cocktail shaker,
along with 6 ice cubes. Shake
for 45 seconds, then strain into
ice-filled tall glass.

2 Top with ginger beer and


garnish with a sprig of mint.
Serve with a metal or bamboo
straw.

Makes 1 drink

TRY WITH…
Mezcal Creyente
LCBO 496141, $59.95

44 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


INSPIRATION
DELIVERED
TO YO U R I N B OX !

S I G N U P AT
.com
A N D G E T:

EXPERT RECOMMENDATIONS
Wines, beers and spirits for your occasions
and get-togethers — tailored to your taste!

INSPIRED PAIRINGS
Delicious food and cocktail recipes from
Magazine.

EXCLUSIVE PERKS
AND OFFERS
Be the first to know about exclusive new
releases and get perks like first access to
the digital edition of !

EXPERT GIFTING ADVICE


AND ENTERTAINING TIPS
Find the perfect gift or host like a pro with
our insider pointers and handy guides.
FARM TO TABLE

Taking care of the earth is an


important job for all of us—for those
of us who eat and, especially, for those
who grow our food. Farmers live off
the land, relying on a healthy earth
for their livelihood, so they know they
need to protect it. A farmer needs to
have a sustainable business and good-
quality product that doesn’t deplete
our natural resources.
When we plan our meals and make
our shopping lists, we need to consider
sustainability, too, by choosing foods
grown in a responsible way. Buying
local, knowing where your food comes
from and how it was grown, and
appreciating the food grown for us by
reducing food waste are all ways we
can do our part for sustainability.
We’re fortunate that our Ontario
farmers—whether they produce meat,
poultry, seed and grain crop, dairy,
vegetables or fruit—are working hard
to bring us nutritious food and making
sure they’re taking care of Mother
Nature in the process. Here we’re
focusing on some Ontario meat farms
that are innovating through research,
education and ingenuity how they
produce food and creating novel ways
to get it to us. It’s fascinating to learn
what our Ontario farmers are doing
to get us food we can enjoy from field,
orchard and greenhouse to plate, as
they say.

Forces of nature
SHOP
FROM HOME
Shining a spotlight on just a few of the Ontario farmers
PHOTO BY CARRIE WOOLLEY

Shop with sustainability in mind; take inven-


tory of your freezer and fridge, plan meals,
order or buy only what you know you’ll use. making a concerted effort towards sustainability—bringing
Innovation in online sales means you can us nutritious food and, in the process, making sure they’re
have food delivered directly from Ontario
farms. Look for this icon on the following
taking care of Mother Nature.
pages for a few companies making it easy
to shop sustainably from home. By Jennifer MacKenzie

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 47


FORCES OF NATURE

Heritage
Cattle Co.
Home on the range where the beef TRULOCAL
cattle roam—100-percent grass-fed and
-finished, free-range cattle, that is. Online ordering with
courier delivery across
Cattle at Heritage Cattle Company Ontario. Your choice of
graze the lush pastures south of Ontario farm products
Peterborough, Ont., and the MacDonald including beef (premium
family—Aaron, Ben and George—know and grass-fed and
they have to keep that land as natural -finished), artisanal
as possible for the health of their farm chicken, lamb and water
and the animals. They grow 100-percent buffalo as well as imported
grass-fed and -finished beef. Efforts to and Canadian sustainable
sustain their farm include rotational seafood. trulocal.ca
grazing so the cattle move around
the property, eliminating the need
for mechanized movement feed and
manure. To protect the stream running
through the farm and the wildlife that
lives there, they’ve created a natural
buffer zone to prevent cattle from going
into the water, thus keeping the water
clean. All pastures are planted with
natural grasses and legumes to enhance
pollinator habitat. We’ve curated a collection of
A sustainability plan for their farm ground beef and steak recipes from
includes partnering with a delivery com- our archives to add to your rotation.
pany, truLocal (this page), so they can Visit lcbo.com/fdspring20.
sell beef without becoming e-commerce
and logistics experts. They can stick to
farming while still supplying customers
with their flavourful, tender, grass-fed
beef.

GROWING

FOOD IMAGE BY ROB FIOCCA; PORTRAIT BY ERIN CAITLIN


100-PERCENT
GRASS-FED BEEF,
THE MACDONALD
FAMILY WORK TO
KEEP THEIR LAND
NATURAL AND
THEIR STREAM
PRISTINE, WITH
SUSTAINABILITY
SAUTÉED STEAK WITH
A TOP PRIORITY. SPANISH TOMATOES

48 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


1.5oz CANADIAN CLUB,
GINGER ALE & LIME

THAT’S REFRESHING
Canadian Club® Canadian Whisky, 40% Alc./Vol. © 2019 Canadian Club Whisky Company, Walkerville, Ontario, Canada.
FORCES OF NATURE

The Whole Pig


Bringing home the bacon takes on a whole new meaning with home
delivery from The Whole Pig. Even better, it’s sustainably raised bacon.

Teresa and Martin Van Raay and their sons operate a hog, garlic and
crop farm in Dashwood, Ont., near Grand Bend. Through almost
40 years of farming they’ve learned about sustainability. Tillage is a
technique that uses heavy machinery to work the land before a crop is
planted. For 25 years, the Van Raays have practiced no-tillage farming
to protect the land by reducing soil erosion and to reduce fuel use for
the crops they grow for hog food. They also use GPS to add nutri-
ents only where seeds will be planted and they use cover crops to
improve soil health. Their on-farm retail store and delivery operation,
The Whole Pig (thewholepig.ca), offers freshly frozen pork direct to
consumers, reducing transportation and helping to keep their business
sustainable. The delivery to customers is made by Teresa in her hybrid
compact car. Talk about commitment to sustainability!

Bacon-Wrapped Pork Loin


with Apples & Sage
CLICK FORK

A northeastern Ontario collaborative


online farmers’ market of 10 farms and
other suppliers who pool resources to
sell produce, beef, pork, chicken and
other farm products. Order online
and pick up at designated locations in
Sudbury, North Bay, Lavigne, Cache
Bay and Sturgeon Falls.
localline.ca/click-fork

DRY-CURED BACON

FOOD IMAGE BY JAMES TSE; THE WHOLE PIG IMAGE BY ALICIA FOULON
AND NO-FILLER
SAUSAGES ARE
VERY POPULAR AT
THE WHOLE PIG,
AS ARE CHOPS AND
ROASTS. GO FOR A
MIXED-PRODUCT
PACKAGE IF YOU
WANT TO BRANCH
OUT TO TRY
CUTS YOU DON’T
USUALLY BUY. For a curated collection of
pork recipes from our archives
visit lcbo.com/fdspring20.

50 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


$17
solution.
Great-value
wines.
THIS IS VINTAGES

Founded in 1904, Sebastiani is


a paragon of Californian fine
winemaking. The 2017 Cabernet
features ripe red fruit, vanilla,
cassis, cedar, spice and mint
tones. An ideal choice for steak
and mushrooms.
SEBASTIANI
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017
California
13186 (XD) 750 mL
$17.00 2
Full-bodied & Smooth

The Bollina Zenas Primitivo is


concentrated, with impressive
dark fruit and a spicy undertone.
Grippy tannins and a sweet edge
from the ripe fruit make it ideal for
spicy beef ribs.
BOLLINA ZENAS PRIMITIVO 2018
IGT Puglia, Italy
13629 (XD) 750 mL
$17.00 2
Full-bodied & Firm
98 points (lucamaroni.com)

$17 SOLUTION. AVAIL ABLE IN STORES AND ONLINE MARCH 7, 2020.


32396

Featured products may not be available in all Vintages locations. Visit lcbo.com/vintages for availability and store locations. Prices subject to change.
FORCES OF NATURE

Woolleys’
Lamb
This Norfolk County farm is home to
some of the finest, and woolliest, lawn NIKU FARMS
mowers you’ll ever see.
Online ordering with
Sheep peacefully graze through the long direct delivery from
grasses among fruit trees: an idyllic scene. Ontario farms to select
And even more so when you know they areas. Grass-fed and/or
are there to enhance the environmental pasture-raised lamb,
sustainability of a farm. At Woolleys’ Lamb beef, bison, pork and
in Norfolk County, that’s just what Carrie chicken. Order one type
Woolley (her real name!) and Brett Schuyler of meat or mixed boxes.
are doing at their family farm. The vegetation nikufarms.com
among the cherry and apple trees and in
other pastures is maintained by the sheep,
reducing the need to mow with fuel-powered
equipment. Letting the grass and weeds
grow for the sheep to eat, instead of mowing
them, also creates pollinator habitat in the Seared lamb chops
orchards, plus the manure from the sheep & pearl onions
naturally fertilizes the crops. The sheep
with mashed peas
graze outdoors year-round, making the meat
produced 100-percent grass-fed.
& mint tahini
Keeping to the sustainability theme, all
butchering is done five minutes away from the
farm and from there the meat is delivered di-
rectly to local shops and to customers through
a delivery company, Niku Farms (this page),
keeping transportation to a minimum.

LAMB LOIN CHOPS


REIGN AS THE MOST
POPULAR CUT, SAYS
CARRIE WOOLLEY,

FOOD IMAGE BY VINCE NOGUCHI; PORTRAIT BY JEFF TRIBE


WITH LEG STEAKS
AND ROASTS NEXT.
THE MOST UNDER-
APPRECIATED CUT,
SHE SAYS, IS LAMB
RIBS. AVOIDING
OVERCOOKING IS
THE MOST IMPOR-
TANT TIP FOR
PREPARING LAMB. We’ve curated a roundup of
recipes using various cuts of lamb
at lcbo.com/fdspring20.

52 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


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Go where no other sedan dares in the all-new 2020 Subaru Legacy. Symmetrical WELL-EQUIPPED FROM
Full-Time All-Wheel Drive comes standard for dynamic handling in all weather and
road conditions. Together with a class-leading interior, advanced tech and available $26,395*
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one surprisingly capable sedan. THE SUV OF SEDANS.

ON MODELS WITH SPECIFIC HEADLIGHTS

*MSRP of $26,395 on the 2020 Legacy 2.5L 4-cyl DI Convenience Pkg CVT (LA2 CP). MSRP excludes Freight & PDI of $1,650. Taxes, license, registration and insurance are extra. Model shown is the
2020 Legacy 2.4L 4-cyl DI Turbo Premier GT CVT (LA2 PG) with an MSRP of $39,095. Dealers may sell for less or may have to order or trade. Prices may vary in Quebec. EyeSight® is a driver-assist
system which may not operate optimally under all driving conditions. The driver is always responsible for safe and attentive driving. System effectiveness depends on many factors such as vehicle
maintenance, and weather and road conditions. Vehicle shown solely for purposes of illustration, and may not be equipped exactly as shown. See Owner’s Manual for complete details on system
operation and limitations. Some features described or shown may not be standard features or equipment. Ratings are awarded by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS). Please visit
www.iihs.org for testing methods. SUBARU STARLINK® Connected Services are offered on an initial three-year free subscription on select Legacy trim levels. Customers are required to enrol in the
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local Subaru dealer for complete details. Legacy, Subaru and SUBARU STARLINK® are registered trademarks.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE
Spring 2020

For most of us, spring can’t come soon


enough. Crowding onto patios to feel
some sun on our skin, we Ontarians
scoff at the still-cool air! Whether you
celebrate Easter, or if the longer days

56 Celebrate the Season | 64 Coming to Terms


inspire you to throw a dinner party,
we’ve got a sure-hit menu for you. It’s
easy to pull off yet celebration-worthy

70 Milky Ways
and, fittingly for the season, pastel-
coloured. We also look at the many
milks making their way into our fridges—
plant-based substitutes included—
breaking down the differences, showing
you how to cook with each one, and
including a raft of tasty recipes. For an
entirely different drink—wine—we clear
up what natural, organic and biodynamic
mean, with emblematic recommends for
each. Let’s raise a glass to all that!
56 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK
CELEBRATE
THE SEASON
Having friends over for a spring dinner?
Here’s a menu you can be confident of
pulling off. The dishes are uncomplicated
to make (and so tasty your guests would
never guess), plus pretty pastel colours
channel the season for added effect.

By Victoria Walsh | PHOTOGRAPHY BY james tse

As the sun begins to shine more brightly and the grey days of winter trail away,
the arrival of a new season—and a long weekend—is upon us. That’s reason
enough to celebrate, right? We let retro pastel colours and brightly flavoured
dishes take the lead for this vibrant springtime menu, with a showstopper ham,
a perfectly simple soup, a risotto loaded with this season’s best ingredients, and
modern appetizer toasts. Many of the dishes are flexible, so you can customize
to your and your guests’ preferences—flexitarian, kosher, plant-based and
vegan—this menu aims to please everyone.

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 57


For Passover, swap
bread for matzos
and use schmaltz
instead of butter.

Bread & butter


with pomegranate,
pickled radishes
& onions
Recipe on page 103

58 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


Silken
asparagus
soup
Recipe on page 102

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 59


The trick to creamy
risotto is gentle,
continuous stirring
in a figure eight.

Artichoke & basil risotto


Recipe on page 102

60 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


Whole-citrus candied ham
Recipe on page 103

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 61


Saffron-coconut
macaroons
Recipe on page 102

62 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


WHAT TO SERVE

Bread & butter Silken asparagus Artichoke & Whole-citrus Saffron-coconut


with pomegranate, soup basil risotto candied ham macaroons
pickled radishes
Avoid an asparagus and Artichokes in creamy Relish the interplay Grace these light, airy
& onions
wine clash; choose a risotto will pair with between salty-sweet bites of coconutty nir-
A light, fresh red wine citrusy, herbal, unoaked wine, despite their ham and the summer vana with an exquisitely
will grapple with the white. Try Sauvignon reputation. Opt for tart red-fruit freshness balanced late-harvest
zesty pickled radish and Blanc, Grüner Veltliner fruit, good acidity and of a rosé wine. or dessert wine.
tart pomegranate notes or Pinot Grigio. flinty minerality.
Caves d’Esclans Cave Spring Indian
in this appetizer.
Riverlore Sauvignon Blanc Fazi Battaglia Titulus Whispering Angel Rosé Summer Late Harvest
Hob Nob Pinot Noir Marlborough Verdicchio dei Castelli VINTAGES ESSENTIALS Riesling VQA
Pays D’Oc LCBO 417600, $16.75 di Jesi DOC 325076, $28.95 VINTAGES ESSENTIALS
LCBO 184069, $12.95 LCBO 24422, $9.45 415901, 375 mL, $24.95

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 63


COMING
Ever puzzled over the differences between organic, natural
and biodynamic on wine labels? Read on for our clear
explanations—and check out emblematic choices of each style.

TO
By Charlene Rooke | PHOTOGRAPHY BY darren kemper

TERMS
Are the people around you talking about drinking more low-intervention, low-sulfite,
organically grown, biodynamically farmed or skin-contact wine? Surprisingly, many
buzzwords like this, sometimes seen on wine lists or labels, don’t have global-
standard definitions, so it can be hard for the entire wine industry to agree on what
they mean to consumers. While Biodynamic and Sustainable certifications are just
gaining regulatory steam, certified Organic standards are set and upheld by various
bodies around the world, which guarantees you’re drinking a wine that lives up to an
international benchmark. Read on for a primer in what choosing these wines means.

64 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


The Raw Deal
A series of global Raw Wine fairs around
the world celebrates small-batch, artisanal
“natural” wines. London, Berlin, Miami,
New York, Los Angeles and Montreal are
among the Raw Wine host cities in 2020.

Feel like
a natural
wine?
There is no universal definition
of “natural wine.” However,
some use the term to describe
a style that uses organic or
biodynamic grapes (see coming
pages), naturally airborne
ambient yeasts or a low-
intervention winemaking style
that adds and subtracts as little
as possible in the winery.
That means that the
wine’s acidity, flavour, texture,
freshness and other qualities
aren’t adjusted with chemical
additives, as they can be in
conventional winemaking.
It’s often described as “low-
intervention” winemaking,
and the terms “living wine,”
“grower wine” and “raw
wine” are sometimes used
to describe modern wines
that hearken back to the
way it was made centuries
ago, sometimes even using
earthenware pots (amphorae).
Taste it at Après Wine
Bar, Sapori, Bar Isabel
and Bar Raval and Grape
Witches events in Toronto;
and at Ontario restaurants
Skin in the game such as Archive 909, Paris
Paris, Brothers Food &
Skin-fermented white wines (a.k.a. orange wines) are made in an ancient method Wine and Cava in Toronto
that gives them hues ranging from amber to coral and orange. Watch for seasonal plus Backhouse and The
Ontario selections like Southbrook’s Skin Fermented Vidal, Cooper’s Hawk Restaurant at Pearl Morissette
Orange Splash and Reif Estate The Sun Skin-Fermented Vidal at the LCBO. in Niagara.

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 65


Bare facts: organic
Organic wine—no matter where in the world it
was certified (the U.S. and the EU have separate
certification systems, for example)—comes from
grapes grown without synthetic fertilizers or
conventional pesticides. It is generally made in a
winery that is also certified organic, and uses very
minimal additives. Organic wine often comes from
warm, dry regions that experience less pressure
from vineyard diseases and pests: here are a few
that are manic for organic.

King of spring salads


Vibrant organic white wines complement
this spring-vegetable asparagus salad, but
the mushrooms and prosciutto (eliminate
the latter for a vegetarian dish) make it
meaty enough to enjoy with organic reds.

ASPARAGUS AND
KING MUSHROOM SALAD WITH
CRISP PROSCIUTTO
recipe at lcbo.com/fdspring20

California Chile Argentina


Farming organically for more than 30 years, Cono Sur, in Chile’s Mediterranean- From the arid Cuyo region, Zaphy wines
Bonterra Organic Vineyards, in the Mendocino climate Colchagua Valley, produces a from Trapiche include a spicy, cherry-licked
region, makes a creamy, full-bodied crisp, melon and apple-zinged Chardonnay Cabernet Sauvignon (LCBO 11934, $11.95) and
Chardonnay (VINTAGES 342436, $19.95) and (LCBO 230565, $13.95). Lush, tropical- a fresh, citrus and mango-tinged Chardonnay
a Cabernet Sauvignon (LCBO 342428, $21.95) fruited Novas Gran Reserva Sauvignon (LCBO 11935, $11.95). Domaine Jean Bousquet
bursting with herbs and dark berries. Blanc (LCBO 553800, $15.95) comes from in Mendoza makes a deeply pigmented
Emiliana in Chile’s San Antonio Valley. plummy Malbec (LCBO 160952, $14.95) and
a Cabernet Sauvignon (LCBO 218875, $14.95)
with pepper and spice notes.

66 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


Raising the
organic flag
Two more organic
growing regions:

CANADA
A complex and elegant
organic wine from the
Beamsville Bench in Niagara,
Hidden Bench Estate
Pinot Noir VQA (VINTAGES
274753, $34.95) layers herbal
and mineral notes over juicy
cherry fruit.

Old-school organic
Spain, France and Italy are the organic leaders of the Old World wine regions, where EU rules
defining organic wine have existed since 2012. Here are some stars well worth sampling.

Italy FRANCE SPAIN


A burst of citrus and wildflowers Beefy reds from southern France, Hot and dry Spain has the largest
from the hills of Palermo is a sig- like J.P. Chenet Cabernet Syrah area of organic vineyards in
nature of Sicily’s signature white (LCBO 90472, $11.95) and Domaine the world. From Almansa in the
grape, Grillo, featured in Rapitala de Serame Cabernet Sauvignon southeast, El Abuelo (“grand-
Grillo (LCBO 634345, $13.95). (LCBO 617225, $13.95), are ideal father”) makes spicy, ripe-berry
Vegan Lupi Reali Montepulciano matches with meat. Each Chavin Tempranillo-Monastrell (LCBO
AUSTRALIA d’Abruzzo (LCBO 486647, $11.95) Boeuf Bourguignon Cabernet 524520, $9.95) and lime-tinged,
Grown in warm, dry McLaren from southern Italy has earthy (LCBO 554139, $12.85) bottle even tropical fruity Sauvignon-Verdejo
Vale by one of the largest whiffs of spice and chocolate. features a detachable recipe. (LCBO 11586, $9.95) blends.
certified organic winemakers Era wines makes a Merlot (LCBO The herb-licked Terra Vitae Côtes
in the country, Angove 255869, $10.75); a Montepulciano du Rhône Village (LCBO 545988,
Cabernet Sauvignon (LCBO d’Abruzzo (LCBO 255844, $10.75); $15.90) blend is superb with lamb.
464743, $15.95) matches its and a Sauvignon Blanc (LCBO
vibrant red-berry flavours 632307, $10.90) which are all dry,
with soft spice, oak and a lively and pair beautifully with Shop online
long, warm finish. pasta and pizza. for products.

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 67


More
sustainability
stars
Turn to page 39 to see how
Ontario winemakers are
championing sustainability and
read on for a few more exam-
ples from around the world.

CALIFORNIA
Certified Green
under the Lodi
Rules (California’s
original sustainability
program), McManis
Family Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon
(VINTAGES 212126,
$19.95) is rich with
vanilla and ripe,
dark berry fruit.

SOUTH AFRICA
This organically
certified Stellen-
bosch farm holds
Conservation Cham-
pion status from the
WWF South Africa
and is fair trade
The roots of biodynamic accredited. Spier
Signature Cabernet
Founded by Rudolf Steiner in Germany in the 19th century, the biodynamic method of Sauvignon (LCBO
farming goes a step beyond organic, not only forbidding chemical fertilizers and sprays but 10415, $12.95) has
embracing sustainable growing that follows moon cycles and prioritizes soil health. France chocolatey, earthy
notes.
and Italy are among the Old World devotees; newer wine regions in New Zealand, Argentina,
Chile and Canada are among others also embracing biodynamics.

Italy Ontario ITALY


In Tuscany, Loacker Wine Estates calls itself the Tawse turns to natural solutions: chickens to Sustainable under
“bioneer” of organic and biodynamic growing. The control bugs, grazing sheep to prune the vines... Italy’s Equalitas pro-
black cherry and berry nose of its intense Corte and sometimes horses to pull its plows! Taste gram, Lirica Primitivo
Pavone Brunello di Montalcino (VINTAGES 237263, Niagara Escarpment terroir in Quarry Road Organic di Manduria DOC
$57.95) turns to subtle smoke, coffee and cacao on Riesling VQA (VINTAGES 198853, $24.95), Growers (LCBO 326710, $17.95)
the palate. Look for it in the Vintages release of Blend Pinot Noir VQA (VINTAGES 130989, $25.95) from Puglia is a close
April 18. and Spark Limestone Ridge Organic Sparkling cousin to Zinfandel,
Riesling VQA (VINTAGES 370361, $20.95). with dark fruit and
exotic ginger and
licorice notes. Look
for it in the April 18
Shop online for products. Vintages release.

68 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


Fetzer Vineyards
With half a century of farm-
to-table history in Mendocino
County, wines from this
pioneering brand make dynamite
food pairings: the vanilla-scented
Chardonnay (LCBO 291674,
$14.20) with a veggie and goat
cheese flatbread; the Cabernet
Sauvignon (LCBO 336974, $14.20)
with steak kissed with herbs.

Rodney Strong
Vineyards
Also boasting carbon-neutral
status, this vineyard’s Sonoma
County Cabernet Sauvignon
(VINTAGES 226944, $27.95) has
intriguing evergreen and smoke
notes. Its intense Pinot Noir from
the Russian River Valley (VINTAGES
954834, $27.95) is a pairing for
grilled food, while Charlotte’s
Home Sauvignon Blanc (VINTAGES
449207, $19.95) is zesty with lemon
grass and grapefruit.

Wente Vineyards
This Monterrey clan makes a
Morning Fog Chardonnay (LCBO
175430, $19.95) that rolls on the
palate smoothly, like lemon curd.
Its Southern Hills Cabernet
Sauvignon (LCBO 301507, $19.95)
balances ripe black olive with
dark berries; both wines have
Sustainable spotlight lovely floral bouquets wafting
from the glass.
California winemakers came together 15 years ago to make
an industry commitment to sustainability in business, farm-
ing and winemaking practices. Today, nearly 2,000 vine-
yards, 148 wineries and almost a quarter of the land under
vine cultivation is Certified California Sustainable Wine-
growing—including these wineries and their vineyards.

California pizza pairing


Nothing says California cuisine quite like a crisp thin-crust pizza
topped with seasonal ingredients. Try a white-sauce spinach
pie with crisp white wines, and a savoury sausage, date and
caramelized onion version with Cali reds.

sausage, caramelized onion & date pizza


and white spinach pizza
recipes at lcbo.com/fdspring20

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 69


M I LK
70 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK
With all the alternative
milks on shelves and making
their way into our fridges,
we’ve come up with some
delish ideas that show you
how to make great use of
them in cooking.

Y By Christopher St. Onge


PHOTOGRAPHY BY Rob Fiocca

It’s easy to forget milk’s magic. Like onions, celery and


carrots, it’s often overlooked but indispensable in the
kitchen. Here, five new recipes shine a spotlight on
the goodness of milk, each recipe using a different
type. Canadian labelling laws prohibit the use of milk
on anything other than cow or goat milk labels, but to
most of us these alternatives are also milk! Soy milk and
goat milk behave much like cow milk in the kitchen but
bring with them subtle differences in flavour. Low in fat
and high in flavour, buttermilk makes the best brine, and
reliable cow milk can stand the test in what I’m sure will
be your favourite ragu recipe for years to come. Also,
there’s Tres Leches Layer Cake! I doubt you’ll find a finer
argument for milk’s delicious charms.

Soy Milk Soup


with Toast Dumplings

Unsweetened Soy Milk Hardly a


“new” milk, it’s been around forever. Unsweetened,
unflavoured soy milk more closely resembles its
original iteration as a by-product of tofu production.
It’s a near-perfect substitution for milk in recipes.

Recipe on page 98

71
M I LK
Whole Goat Milk
Contrary to popular belief,
it isn’t all that “goaty.” Sure,
it has a different flavour than
cow milk, but full-fat goat
milk is a delicious cooking
medium. As it simmers,
it forms delectable curds.

Goat-Milk-Cooked
New Potatoes
Recipe on page 99

72 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


KY
Garlicky
Buttermilk
& Thyme
Chicken Roast

Buttermilk Buttermilk is
low in fat and has almost the same
sugar content as regular cow milk.
This makes it an ideal marinade for
chicken where it aids in browning
and brings lip-smacking tang.

Recipe on page 99
Cows’ Whole
Milk
The combination of
fat, protein and sugars
makes the whole milk of
cows deliciously bland.
Pappardelle That’s no slight! It takes
with White Ragu to other flavours like a
champ, acting as foil to
more bracing flavours.
Recipe on page 101
WAYS

Tres Leches Layer Cake Toasted Almond Milk Commercial almond milk is
made with blanched raw almonds and is nearly tasteless. In this
homemade version, the nuts are toasted first, lending the finished
Recipe on page 100 milk incomparable flavour.

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 75


DrInK ReSpOnSiBlY 2.0
Drinking responsibly now also means considering the environment.
Your choice of vodka makes a difference.
Vodkow makes an impression without leaving one on the planet.

Sustainability Facts
17 servings per container
Serving Size 1.5oz (44ml) 96 calories

grams per serving

Reduced waste
. 215
ISO 14021 Compliant Analysis
Locally made Almonte, Ontario 100%
Local ingredients Ontario dairy by-product 100%
Recyclable Glass bottle 100%
Rapidly renewable Ingredients 99%
Milk permeate 55%
Water 43%
Yeast 1%
Canadian owned and operated 100%

No Food used vs grain, potato


50% Less glass than avg bottle
Low Process waste vs traditional
Less Production energy vs starches
Low Transport energy vs imports
Carbon neutral ISO 14021

Lactose, sugar and gluten free

CHOOSE VODKOW AT YOUR LOCAL LCBO


VODKOW.COM/SUSTAINABILITY
BETTER FOR YOU

Raising the bar


Why buy expensive sugary protein bars
when delicious, nutritious ones are easy to make
Find this bonus
Oatmeal Raisin and tote along wherever you’re headed.
Cookie Balls recipe BY MARCELLA D i lONARDO | photography by JAMES TSE
on page 98.

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 77


RAISING THE BAR

Vegan +
gluten-free PEANUT BUTTER,
BANANA & CINNAMON
ENERGY BITES

What makes these energy bites


special is the combination of tex-
tures. The addition of puffed rice
makes for a much lighter consis-
tency compared to your average
protein ball. The puffed rice
also adds a little crunch to each
bite. The banana brings a natural
sweetness to the filling, making
this recipe a great low-added
sugar alternative. Use the ripest
banana you can get your hands
on; the riper the banana, the
sweeter the result!

1 large ripe banana, mashed


3⁄4 cup (175 mL) natural creamy
peanut butter
1⁄4 cup (60 mL) pure maple syrup
1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract
1⁄4 cup (60 mL) hemp hearts
1⁄2 teaspoon (2 mL) ground
cinnamon
1 pinch sea salt
2 cups (500 mL) brown rice puffs
or puffed quinoa, plus more for
rolling

1 Place banana, peanut butter,


maple syrup, vanilla, hemp hearts,
cinnamon and sea salt in a food
processor. Blend until mixture
begins to come together, about
60 seconds. Add puffed rice and
pulse a few times. Refrigerate for
30 minutes to firm.

2 Shape mixture into 15 bite-sized


balls. Roll each ball in puffed rice.

3 Refrigerate until ready to eat.


Store in an airtight container for
up to a week.
FOR EVEN-SIZED BALLS, USE A SMALL COOKIE
DOUGH SCOOP TO MEASURE OUT EACH PORTION. Makes 15 bites

78 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


Advertising Feature

Two C di
CLASSICS
Canadian beef and
Canadian whisky have
more than great flavour
in common — they are
Bill Sheard (above
centre), with his son part of a collaboration
William, left, and his
wife, Sheila. that enhances
sustainability for both.

PICTURE A SMALL HERD being walked 50 truck loads a week. Then he made
through the area that is now Toronto a business of it, selling it to small dairy “Using distillers grain reduced the
Pearson International Airport, and even farmers, with 30-to-50 cow herds, while environmental impact of us growing
crossing over Eglinton Avenue. It would also feeding four or five loads a week feed for our cattle.” – Bill Sheard,
be impossible today, but in the 1940s of it ” to his own cattle. Sunnymead Farms farmer
William Sheard Senior rode his bicycle
ahead of the family’s cattle to take them Sheard explains that it’s very palatable
to market at the Toronto stockyards. to cattle as feed, and more importantly,
“It’s a good use of resources. Instead
Today his son, third-generation farmer of treating this as waste, this by-product
Bill Sheard, carries on the family tradition has value as cattle feed, and we reduce
of beef farming, including an ingenious environmental impact of both the distiller
sustainability initiative his father started and the farm.” Mixed with silage and hay,
in the 1960s. He started using distillers it can make up as much as a quarter of
grain in his cattle feed, a corn mash by- the daily feed ration, saving the water,
product from the production of Canadian energy and resources that would have
whisky and other spirit-based products. been needed to grow the equivalent
It’s a way of recycling what would amount of grain for feed. Even today,
otherwise be food waste. Sunnymead Farms works with large
ethanol producers to use their spent
Topics like sustainability and climate corn from distilling as part of its cattle
change are so often in the news today feed. “We’re using good farming
you’d think the 21st century invented practices and good science to lessen
them, but, “It’s been going on forever,” the environmental impact and gain
says Sheard, who raises more than 3,000 efficiency,” Sheard says.
beef cattle a year on Sunnymead Farms
near Caledon. Sheard explains that after Historic proof of the longstanding
a distillery mashes, ferments and extracts partnership sits on a glass shelf in a
the alcohol from the corn, the so-called case at his home: a bottle of McGuinness
spent grains are still full of energy, protein, whisky presented to his father in 1973,
vitamins and minerals. the first year a million cases were sold
from the distillery that was their partner
“It’s good feed,” Sheard says, recalling in sustainability for a quarter-century.
what his father knew when he bid on “I’ve never opened it,” Sheard says.
the opportunity to take spent grains However, he agrees it would probably
away from the McGuinness and Gilbey’s taste great stirred into a Canadian whisky
distilleries operating in west Toronto until Old Fashioned or Manhattan, served
the late-1980s. “He got the contract for next to a juicy Canadian beef steak. WATCH BILL’S HERITAGE STORY
RAISING THE BAR

SEA SALT, MAPLE &


CASHEW PROTEIN BITES

These energy bites are so simple 1 1⁄2 cups (375 mL) unroasted 1 Place cashews, dates, maple 2 Shape mixture into 15 bite-sized
and filling. The combination of unsalted cashews syrup, vanilla and fine salt in balls. Sprinkle with a touch of
sweet maple syrup mixed with 8 pitted Medjool dates a food processor. Blend until flaky salt.
flaky sea salt pairs perfectly 1⁄4 cup (60 mL) pure maple syrup mixture begins to come together,
with the creaminess of cashews. about 60 seconds, scraping down 3 Refrigerate until ready to eat.
1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract
This recipe will quickly become the sides as needed. Refrigerate Store in an airtight container for
1⁄4 tsp (1 mL) fine salt up to a week.
a favourite in your house. It can for 30 minutes to firm.
Flaky sea salt, for topping
easily go from bites to bars too!
Makes 15 bites

Vegan, gluten-free
+ low sugar

TO TURN THESE PROTEIN


BITES INTO PROTEIN BARS,
TRANSFER MIXTURE TO
AN 8-INCH (20-CM) SQUARE
BAKING DISH LINED WITH
PARCHMENT PAPER. PRESS
MIXTURE DOWN FLAT
TO SHAPE. FREEZE FOR
60 MINUTES, REMOVE FROM
PAN AND SLICE INTO BARS.

80 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


- 1.5 oz Prairie
Organic Vodka
- 1oz Organic
Lime Juice
- .75 oz Simple
Syrup
- Organic Bla
ckberries
- Organic Basi
l
Muddle blackber
ries and basil in a
Add in Prairie Orga shaker.
nic Vodka, lime ju
and simple syrup ice,
then add ice and
Pour contents into shake.
a lowball glass.
Garnish with basi
l and blackberries

ENJOY IN MODERATION ©2020 Prairie Organic Vodka, 40% alc./vol., Prairie Organic Gin, 40% alc/vol., Prairie
Cucumber-Flavored Organic Vodka, 35% alc./vol. Bottled by Ed Phillips & Sons Co., Princeton, MN. Made in the USA.
Nielsen total US 52 week dollar sales 10-6-18
RAISING THE BAR

MATCHA, COCONUT
& HONEY ENERGY
BITES

For those who haven’t baked


with matcha before, matcha is
powdered green tea leaves in
their purest form. For this recipe,
it is important to use a good-
quality blend of matcha, as this
will result in a much more pleas-
ant and strong green tea flavour.
Matcha is packed with anti-
oxidants, boosts metabolism, and
is rich in fibre. These energy bites
make for the perfect healthy
start to your morning or a great
pick-me-up in the afternoon!

1⁄2 cup (125 mL) roasted, salted


shelled pistachios
1⁄2 cup (125 mL) natural almond
butter
6 pitted Medjool dates
1⁄2 cup (125 mL) unsweetened
flaked coconut, plus more for
rolling Gluten-free +
3 tbsp (45 mL) raw honey low sugar
1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract
2 tsp (10 mL) good-quality matcha
powder, plus more for dusting

1 Place pistachios, almond butter,


dates, coconut, honey, vanilla
and matcha in a food processor.
Blend until mixture begins to
come together, about 60 seconds.
Refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm.

2 Shape mixture into 15 bite-sized


balls. Roll balls in flaked coconut
or dust with matcha powder,
if desired.

3 Refrigerate until ready to eat. IF YOU WANT TO TRANSFORM THESE BITES TO A CHOCOLATE
Store in an airtight container for
up to a week.
VERSION, SIMPLY ADD ½ CUP (125 ML) MINI DARK CHOCOLATE
CHIPS OR COCOA NIBS TO BLENDED MIXTURE IN STEP 1. PULSE
Makes 15 bites 2 TO 3 TIMES TO BLEND BEFORE FIRMING AND SHAPING.

82 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK



 
 
 
  
   

 
GIFTING

Spring
it on
them!
Spring’s finally here,
and the season’s
special events call
for great new bottles
to serve up or gift
to your host.

By Dré Dee
photography by rob fiocca

After some much-needed


hibernation, it’s time to kick
socializing into high gear
again. If your calendar is filling
up with springtime brunch
and dinner invitations, let us
help you find the perfect host
or hostess gift to bring along.
Discover some of the newest,
most innovative products the
LCBO has to offer, including
ALL GLASSWARE FROM COCKTAIL EMPORIUM, TORONTO, COCKTAILEMPORIUM.COM

sustainably produced wine,


beer and cider, and a modern
whisky that’s sure to uplift
seasonal cocktails.

Also Available
in Red
This funky aluminum
bottle holds a full- A New Way to Chardonnay
bodied Cali Cab that’s This standout hostess gift offers a fresh new way to
sure to capture your enjoy a classic California Chardonnay. A reuseable,
resealable and recyclable aluminum bottle contains
host’s attention. It’s
two perfect servings of apple- and pear-scented
perfect with juicy bar-
food-friendly wine. Present both the red and the
becued steak or ribs. white to guarantee being invited again!
Sterling Vineyards Sterling Vineyards Chardonnay
Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO 11988, 375 mL, $9.95
LCBO 11989, 375 mL, $9.95

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 85


SPRING IT ON THEM!

GIN FOR THE SEASON

Heading to a brunch? Is your host a fan of


breezy cocktails? Here’s a Scottish elixir
that’s the perfect gift. Flirtatiously floral
with a wicked finish, this limited-edition gin
by master distiller Lesley Gracie captures
the spirit of summer. Lovely mixed with
elderflower water, soda and lemon!

Hendrick’s Midsummer Solstice Gin


LCBO 12564, $59.95

Shop online for products.

From Italy’s CIDER WITH ROOTS


bounty A springtime gathering deserves a fresh,
From the Italian city of Verona, new sipper to share. Gift your hostess
the land of Romeo and Juliet, with this perfectly balanced dry cider from
comes this bold, yet softly West Avenue. It’s made with 100 percent
sensuous red. If your host is Ontario heritage apples from among
serving hearty red meat—or 1,000 trees planted by the producers.
is simply a fan of steaks and
roasts—they’ll adore the dark West Avenue Cider Heritage Dry
plum and chocolate notes. LCBO 11172, 473 mL, $3.80
Bonus: this wine is produced
using organic methods and
sustainable farming practices.
And it’s vegan-friendly.

Trementi Rosso del Veneto IGP


Appassimento
LCBO 13493, $16.95

86 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


DISCOVER A
WORLD OF
SELECTION
SHOP LCBO.COM
• 7500+ products
• Inspired gift ideas
• Online exclusives
• New releases
Plus, order online for next-day home
delivery, or for FREE pick up in-store.

32569
SPRING IT ON THEM!

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

The long-awaited new lineup in


this Ontario brewery’s Mix Pack
series has arrived. Thrill the
beer-loving host with smooth,
classic Helles Lager; tart and
tangy Cry If I Want To Sour IPA;
juicy, tropical Pleasant Island
Hazy Pale Ale and fruity-spicy
Piñata Peach Ginger Kettle Sour.
All picks are made in an energy-
efficient brewery that also
minimizes water waste.

Wellington Brewery Mix Pack


Volume 8
LCBO 14691, 4 pk, $13.50

Pretty Pinot Noir


Pinot Noir is a wonderfully food-friendly
AN ULTRA-MODERN IRISH WHISKY wine and therefore, a can’t-miss dinner-
party companion. The best part? Your
host will never guess that this elegant,
This unique, complex whiskey is the harmonious red—from the pristine hill-
brainchild of some of the best new sides of the Italian Alps—is such a great
minds in the business; a combo of value for the style and region.
youthful energy and masterful experi-
ence. The result: flavours of warm toast- Mezzacorona Pinot Noir
ed oak and freshly peeled grapefruit Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
LCBO 13538, $14.95
and spice. And Irish Distillers’ Midleton
Distillery has prioritized keeping things
clean and green while making whiskey
with zero waste to landfill and 100 per-
cent of barley used in production locally
sourced and fully traceable to farm.
This forms part of Irish Distillers’ com-
mitment to Origin Green, Ireland’s food
and beverage sustainability program.
Available through the Whisky Shop
at lcbo.com/whiskyshop.

Method and Madness Single Grain


Whiskey
LCBO 14132, $64.95

88 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


BASICS

Doing lunch Day 1


Green Farro Bowl
Making your own satisfying grain bowl does
A bit of weekend prep plus a little mean cooking and assembling a number
of components. Do it once and you’ll see that
after-dinner effort (check out our it’s really worth the effort.
guide on page 95) is all you need
to make the healthy and flavourful
lunches you’d otherwise pay a recipes included
premium for. £ Farro £ Juicy Poached
£ Best Hard-Boiled Chicken (optional)
By Eshun Mott | photography by Rob Fiocca Eggs £ Zesty Lemon
£ Garlicky Greens Vinaigrette

Recipes on page 96

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 91


DOING LUNCH

Bringing your lunch


to work is easy once
you’ve got the essential
Day 2 equipment and have got
Salmon into the rhythm of it. Buy
Salad Bowl bags and containers that
work for you.
Sweet and savoury roasted
salmon stars in a salad that
combines both raw and
blanched vegetables, lettuce Keep in mind where you
and a handful of farro for body. store lunch at work and
A fresh lemon vinaigrette ties what you have access to
it all together. in terms of prep space.

recipes included Keeping a paring knife


£ Mustardy Roast Salmon (to cut fruit right before
Fillets eating) and salt and
£ Zesty Lemon Vinaigrette pepper at work are the
easiest ways to make
Recipes on pages 96 & 97 a good lunch better.
Day 3

Salmon Frittata
Leftover cooked salmon and
asparagus are the start to a
simple and very delicious
fritatta. Adding sour cream adds
extra richness and moisture.
This recipe makes more than
2 servings, so save extra for
Friday’s lunch or share with
a friend.

recipe included
£ Mustardy Roast Salmon Fillets

Recipes on page 97

92 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


USA. France. I taly.
LET’S GET BACK TO (VINTAGES) ESSENTIALS

Classic favorites, and a few that are sure to be new ones,


coming soon to LCBO Vintages shelves near you…

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Columbia Crest Grand Estates M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila- Santa Margherita
Cabernet Sauvignon Chardonnay Haut Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Pinot Grigio - 375ml
$17.95 $17.95 $15.95 $10.95
Vintages #46154 Vintages #462846 Vintages #168716 Vintages # 687558
LCBO’s #1 Pinot Grigio Essential
Top Washington wines moving to the Vintages section January 2020 Launching as an Essential April 2020 arriving in smaller format April 2020

vinsdandurand.com P lease enjoy r esp onsib ly


DOING LUNCH

Snack time
MAPLE ROASTED RHUBARB
PARFAITS
Yogurt parfaits have never been this
delicious! Roast the first of the season’s
beautiful pink rhubarb with maple syrup
and orange and top with thick Nordic
Skyr. Pack into little lidded glass jars so
you can admire how pretty they are, and
then top with a sprinkle of granola just
before serving. You could just buy a treat
instead, but it’s so little effort to make this
extra lovely and reasonably healthy snack
for yourself.

Recipe on page 97

Day 4 Sesame Noodle Bowl


Poaching chicken in a flavourful liquid ensures the juiciest meat
for your noodle bowl (or any other uses you’d like to put it to). Slice
Day 5 idea
it over a bowl full of Asian noodles and crisp shredded vegetables, Planning for only four
then drizzle with Sesame Dressing.
days gives you flexibility
in case of schedule
recipes included changes and keeps food
waste down. On Day 5 eat
£ Juicy Poached Chicken
dinner leftovers for lunch,
£ Sesame Dressing
or give yourself a treat and
Recipes on pages 96 & 97 go out for a change.

94 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


How to organize cooking
There are any number of ways to split up the prep and cooking of the
components for this week’s meals, but we have set it up so you do the bulk of it
on Sunday, and then do a few things the night before or the morning of.

Make on Weekend SALMON SALAD BOWL: You’ve made


the salmon, blanched the veggies and
Mustardy Roast Salmon Fillets made the dressing on the weekend so
Juicy Poached Chicken everything is ready for this meal. In the
Farro morning, just slice some fennel and
make a bed of lettuce, then put the
Blanched asparagus and other ingredients on top.
pea pods
Best Hard-Boiled Eggs
Dressings x 2 (sesame and lemon)
SESAME NOODLE BOWL: Asian
Maple Roasted Rhubarb Parfaits
noodles are quick to cook the night
before. Then add your made-ahead
Make Night Before poached chicken, blanched veggies and
sesame dressing, slice up some carrots,
Boil noodles green onion and herbs and sprinkle
Cook Garlicky Greens with toasted sesame.
Cook Salmon Frittata

SALMON FRITTATA: The frittata


makes great use of the salmon and
GREEN FARRO BOWL: You’ve asparagus you’ve already cooked. Bake
cooked the farro, poached the the frittata the night before and add a
chicken (if using), boiled a few eggs, crunchy chopped salad of your choice
and made the lemon vinaigrette on on the side.
the weekend. Saute your greens the
night before so they are tastiest,
and pack everything into containers.
In the morning, add a spoonful of
MAPLE ROASTED RHUBARB
hummus and a sprinkle of herbs. Then
PARFAITS: Roast the rhubarb on the
pack up roasted chickpeas for added
weekend, let cool and spoon into jars
crunch and an avocado to cut fresh
topped with Skyr. These parfaits are Pack dressings
into your bowl.
grab-and-go with a little container of for salads
granola on the side. separately for
freshest results.

Bento boxes are beautiful but it takes discipline


to make the best use of them. Having a selection of
smaller and larger containers gives you the most flexibil-
PHOTOS BY JAMES TSE

ity. Glass containers are great for appetite appeal and


for reheating in the microwave (wide-mouth canning jars
are an inexpensive option). Small lidded leakproof metal
or plastic containers, and sealable silicone bags are also
very useful. Use double-wall insulated containers for
food you want to heat at home and keep warm.

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 95


Recipes
With wine, beer and spirit pairings by the
LCBO’s Knowledge Resources Group.

Doing lunch FARRO JUICY POACHED CHICKEN

from page 91 You can omit the step of toasting the grain, Starting your chicken in cold water with lots
but toasting does boost its flavour. If you are of aromatics is the key to making delicious
GREEN FARRO BOWL poaching the chicken as well, you can use the poached chicken.
flavourful liquid left from cooking, but dilute it
The most satisfying green bowl! If you’ve slightly so your farro isn’t overly salty. 2 medium bone-in skin-on chicken breasts,
about 1 1/4 lbs (565 g)
never thought about adding hummus you’ll be 1 cup (250 mL) farro
surprised by how nicely it works to add flavour 5 cups (1.25 L) cold water
3 cups (750 mL) water or low-sodium
and moisture (and extra protein) here. Buy 1/2 onion, cut into chunks
chicken stock
roasted chickpeas in the healthy snack section 1 stick celery, cut into chunks
of the grocery store. 1 Toast farro in a dry skillet over medium heat 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunk ginger, sliced
1 1/3 cups (330 mL) cooked Farro for 5 minutes or until it begins to pop and 2 tsp (10 mL) kosher salt
(recipe this page) take on colour. Pour into a bowl and let cool
1/2 tsp (2 mL) black peppercorns
2 tbsp (30 mL) Zesty Lemon Vinaigrette slightly.
(recipe this page)
2 Put cooled farro into a medium pot with 1 Combine all the ingredients in an uncov-
1 recipe Garlicky Greens (recipe this page)
salted water or stock and bring to a boil. Turn ered medium pot (chicken should be covered
1 avocado, halved by liquid). Turn heat to medium and slowly
heat to medium-low and simmer gently for
2 Best Hard-Boiled Eggs (recipe this page) bring liquid to a gentle simmer. Turn heat to
25 to 30 minutes or until tender. Drain off any
1/4 cup (60 mL) hummus excess liquid and spread out on a plate to cool low and cook very gently (with small bubbles
1 cup (250 mL) shredded Juicy Poached (this will stop it from cooking further). going from top to bottom) for 45 minutes or
Chicken, optional (recipe this page) until chicken is cooked (internal temperature
Salt and pepper Makes 3 servings should be 165°F (74°C). Remove from heat.
2 tbsp (30 mL) cilantro leaves
2 Transfer chicken to a plate. Let cool. Re-
2 tbsp (30 mL) salted roasted chickpeas
move and discard skin and bones, then shred
1 Toss farro with vinaigrette and divide or slice meat.
GARLICKY GREENS
between 2 containers. Add cooked greens,
avocado, peeled halved eggs, a spoonful of This method works well with any baby cook- Makes 3 to 4 servings
hummus, chicken, if using, and season with ing greens; the trick is not to overcrowd your
salt and pepper. Sprinkle with cilantro and add pan. Work in batches if you need to so that
chickpeas just before serving. resulting greens are flavourful and not at all
Makes 2 servings watery. ZESTY LEMON VINAIGRETTE
1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
A bright and well balanced vinaigrette that will
BEST HARD-BOILED EGGS 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
perk up so many kinds of lunches.
1/4 tsp (1 mL) chili flakes
That grey line you see between the yolk and 5-oz (140-g) box mixed baby cooking greens 2 tbsp (30 mL) white wine vinegar
the white on so many hard-boiled eggs just (such as spinach, kale, chard) 2 tbsp (30 mL) strained fresh lemon juice
means they are overcooked. The trick to Salt
1 tsp (5 mL) grated lemon rind
perfectly cooked eggs is to slightly undercook 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped cilantro
them and chill them in water to stop them 1 tsp (5 mL) honey
from cooking any further. 1 Heat oil in a wok or large frying pan on high 1/4 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil
2 large eggs heat. Add garlic and chili flakes and saute for Salt and freshly ground black pepper
30 seconds or until garlic is golden. Add baby
1 Place eggs in a pot with enough cold water greens to pan and stir-fry for 1 minute or until 1 Combine vinegar, lemon juice, rind, honey
to cover by 1 inch (2.5 cm). Bring to a boil and wilted. Season with salt to taste and remove and olive oil in a small jar and shake to emul-
boil for 9 minutes. Drain and fill pot with very from heat. Let cool and stir in cilantro. sify. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
cold water to stop the eggs from cooking fur-
ther. Peel, cut and season just before serving. Makes 2 servings Makes about 1/2 cup (125 mL)

96 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


SESAME NOODLE BOWL SALMON FRITTATA
You’ve got your Sesame Dressing, your Juicy Sour cream, moist cooked ingredients and fresh
Poached Chicken and your blanched pea dill make this frittata more than lunch-worthy!
pods in the fridge. Add some fast-cooking
1/4 cup (60 mL) sour cream
Asian noodles and raw veggies for a perfectly
6 large eggs, beaten
delicious lunch.
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Salt 2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter
1/2 lb (225 g) fresh or dried Asian noodles 1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped onion
(I like the fresh Shanghai Style)
1 cup (250 mL) chopped cooked asparagus
2 tbsp (30 mL) sesame oil
3/4 to 1 cup (175 to 250 mL) Mustardy Roast
2 tbsp (30 mL) Sesame Dressing (recipe follows) SALMON SALAD BOWL Salmon (recipe this page), broken into chunks
mixed with 2 tbsp (30 mL) water
Take your delicious prepped ingredients, add 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped dill
2 cups (500 mL) pea shoots
a few extra raw vegetables and turn them into
1 cup (250 mL) sliced blanched pea pods 1 Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
a satisfying protein-laden salad!
1 cup (250 mL) shredded peeled carrot
2/3 cup (150 mL) cooked Farro (recipe p. 96) 2 Place sour cream in a medium bowl and
1 green onion, thinly sliced
whisk in eggs until just combined. Season with
1 Juicy Poached Chicken breast, thinly sliced 1/4 cup (60 mL) Zesty Lemon Vinaigrette,
divided (recipe p. 96) salt and pepper.
(recipe p. 96)
1 tbsp (15 mL) toasted white or black sesame 4 cups (1 L) torn lettuce 3 Heat butter in a 10-inch (25-cm) ovenproof
seeds (or a mixture) 1 cup (250 mL) blanched asparagus, cut into nonstick pan. Add onions and sauté over
1-inch (2.5-cm) lengths medium heat for 4 minutes or until lightly
1 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. 1/2 cup (125 mL) blanched pea pods, cut in half golden. Add cooked asparagus and salmon.
Add noodles and boil for 1 to 2 minutes or until 1/2 cup (125 mL) thinly sliced fennel Pour beaten egg mixture overtop and sprinkle
cooked but still al dente. Drain and rinse very in dill. Cook for 3 minutes or until frittata has
2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped parsley
well with cold water. Toss with sesame oil, cover begun to set around the edges.
2 pieces cooked Mustardy Roast Salmon Fillets
and refrigerate until ready to dress and serve. (recipe follows) 4 Transfer to the oven and bake for 8 to
2 Toss noodles in a bowl with thinned Sesame 10 minutes or until eggs are fully set and
Dressing. Divide between lunch containers and 1 Toss farro with 1 tbsp (15 mL) vinaigrette and lightly puffed at edges.
top with pea shoots, pea pods, carrot, green on- divide between 2 containers.
Makes 2 to 4 servings
ion, chicken and sesame seeds. Serve with more 2 Divide lettuce, asparagus, pea pods, fennel,
Sesame Dressing drizzled overtop if desired. parsley and salmon between containers. Put
remaining dressing in a small container on the MAPLE ROASTED RHUBARB PARFAITS
Makes 2 Servings side.
Use a rolling pin or the bottom of a heavy pot
Makes 2 servings to break the cinnamon stick into a few pieces.

SESAME DRESSING 3 tbsp (45 mL) maple syrup


1 tsp (5 mL) grated orange zest
You will find so many uses for this delicious MUSTARDY ROAST SALMON fillets 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh orange juice
dressing. Thin it out with a little water to get it 1-inch (2.5-cm) piece cinnamon stick
to the consistency you need. Sweet and savoury, this salmon makes a moist
6 oz (170 g) rhubarb, cut into 3/4-inch (2-cm)
and flavourful addition to any lunch. lengths, about 2 cups (500 mL)
3 tbsp (45 mL) Chinese sesame paste or tahini
1 tbsp (15 mL) white miso paste 1 lb (455 g) salmon fillet 2/3 to 1 cup (150 to 250 mL) plain Skyr or Greek
2 tbsp (30 mL) sweet Thai chili sauce yogurt
2 tbsp (30 mL) light soy sauce
1 tbsp (15 mL) grainy mustard 1/4 cup (60 mL) crunchy granola
1 tbsp (15 mL) sesame oil
1 tbsp (15 mL) unseasoned rice vinegar 1/4 tsp (1 mL) Sriracha
1 Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C).
2 tsp (10 mL) packed brown sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) grated garlic
Salt 2 Combine maple syrup, orange zest and
2 tsp (10 mL) grated ginger
juice, cinnamon and rhubarb in an 8 x 8-inch
1 tsp (5 mL) grated garlic (20 x 20-cm) glass or non-reactive baking dish,
1 Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a bak-
1/2 tsp (2 mL) Sriracha tossing to coat, then spreading into a single
ing sheet with foil. Cut salmon into 3 equal-
sized pieces, and place on foil skin-side down. layer so everything roasts evenly.
1 Combine sesame paste and miso in a medium
3 Roast in centre of oven until rhubarb is
bowl and whisk until uniform. Whisk in soy 2 Combine chili sauce, mustard, Sriracha and
tender and juices are syrupy, about 20 minutes.
sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, brown sugar, ginger, garlic and generously coat salmon. Season with
Let cool. Discard cinnamon pieces. Serve as is
garlic and Sriracha. Thin with water as needed. salt. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until salmon
or divide between 2 small jars and top with Skyr
begins to flake when you press down on it. or yogurt. Top with granola just before eating.
Makes about 1/2 cup (125 mL) or enough to
coat 1 lb (455 g) of noodles Makes 3 servings Makes 2 servings

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 SHOP ONLINE AT LCBO.COM 97


Waste not, want not HERB STEM SYRUP Milky ways
from page 41 Got wilted leaves that didn’t make the cut from page 70
for a garnish? Give them a second chance
LE CLASSIQUE by tossing them in with the stems to make
a cocktail syrup.
Thanks to the rich citrus of the Lemon
Oleo-Saccharum, this swank cocktail delivers 1 cup (250 mL) sugar
tangy and sweet flavours in perfect balance. 1 cup (250 mL) water
The bright, rich flavours of an oleo will also
1 cup (250 mL) mint stems and wilted leaves
bring life to punches of all kinds.
2 drops mint oil (or extract)
1 oz VS Cognac
2/3 oz fresh lemon juice 1 Gently heat sugar, water and mint leaves,
1/4 oz Lemon Oleo-Saccharum (recipe follows) stems and oil in small saucepan over low heat.
6 ice cubes Let cool, strain, bottle and refrigerate for up
2 oz Champagne to 2 weeks.
1 lemon twist
Makes 1 cup (250 mL)
1 Pour Cognac, lemon juice and Lemon
Oleo-Saccharum into a cocktail shaker. Add Soy Milk Soup
ice cubes and shake well for 30 seconds. with Toast Dumplings
2 Double-strain into a flute and top with Raising the bar Come springtime, I’m always anxious to
Champagne. Garnish with a lemon twist. empty out the crisper drawer to make room
from page 77
Makes 1 cocktail for fresher things. This soup is the perfect
marriage of some of the vegetables lurking
LEMON OLEO-SACCHARUM oatmeal raisin cookie balls there and the season’s first herbs. The reci-
(Vegan + low sugar) pe uses soy milk, your best bet for replacing
An old trick for maxing out the natural flavours cow milk in savoury recipes. Choose un-
from the entire lemon, Oleo-Saccharum (liter- Who said you can’t eat raw cookie dough? sweetened soy milk without any added fla-
ally “oil-sugar”) dates back to the 1800s. Citrus Bonus points when it’s good for you, too! This vour—Natura brand’s Organic Unsweetened
was seasonal and hard to get in those days, so recipe is inspired by the oatmeal raisin cookie,
bartenders made the most of it by extracting Fortified Soy Beverage is widely available
but with a healthy twist. They are packed with
the oil from the peels with sugar. It delivers and neutral in flavour. You can use cow milk
whole grains, nut butter and chia seeds. They’re
a powerful hit of rich citrus. here instead, if you prefer. If a store-bought
just like cookie dough without the guilt.
broth or stock is easier, use 1 cup (250 mL)
1/2 cup (125 mL) lemon rinds
1/2 cup (125 mL) natural almond butter stock and an equal amount of water in place
2/3 cup (150 mL) special fine granulated
white sugar 1/4 cup (60 mL) honey (vegan: substitute agave) of homemade.
1/6 cup (40 mL) demerara sugar 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) old-fashioned rolled oats
3 tbsp (45 mL) butter
1 cup (250 mL) water 2 tbsp (30 mL) chia seeds
1 onion, chopped
1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground cinnamon
1 Place rinds in a Mason jar and add both 3 leeks, white and light green part only,
1 pinch fine salt sliced
sugars. Leave 24 hours.
1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract
2 Bring water to boil, pour over sugar and 3 stalks celery, chopped
1/2 cup (125 mL) raisins (see TIP)
rinds. Stir until sugar is dissolved, strain out 1 container (946 mL) unsweetened
rinds and then bottle liquid. Lasts in the refrig- soy milk
erator up to 2 weeks. 1 In a saucepan over medium heat, whisk
2 cups (500 mL) chicken stock,
together the almond butter and honey until preferably homemade
Makes 1 cup (250 mL)
melted. Transfer to a mixing bowl and stir in
the oats, chia seeds, cinnamon, salt and vanilla 2 fresh bay leaves or 1 dried
CHAMPAGNE SYRUP until well blended. Fold in raisins. Salt and freshly ground black pepper
This is a brilliant use for that age-old problem 2 Refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm. Shape
of what to do with leftover flat bubbly, and it’s mixture into 15 bite-sized balls.
dead simple to make. DUMPLINGS
3 Refrigerate until ready to eat. Store in an 2 slices day-old French bread,
4 oz flat sparkling wine airtight container for up to a week. 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick
1/2 oz honey
Makes 15 balls 1/2 cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour
1 Gently heat wine and honey in small 1 tsp (5 mL) baking powder
saucepan over low heat. Let cool, bottle and
TIP Don’t like raisins? Try substituting equal 1 tsp (5 mL) salt
refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
parts dried cranberries, dried blueberries, or 1/4 tsp (1 mL) freshly ground
Makes 1/2 cup (125 mL) mini chocolate chips. black pepper

98 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


3 tbsp (45 mL) finely chopped dill GARLICKY BUTTERMILK & THYME GOAT-MILK-COOKED NEW POTATOES
2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped chives CHICKEN ROAST
I’ve been craving these potatoes since test-
1 1/2 tsp (7 mL) finely grated lemon zest
Everyone needs a good roast chicken recipe ing them. The combination of goat milk and
1 clove garlic, finely grated up their sleeves and this one should be yours. olive oil is at the heart of this one. The recipe
2 eggs, lightly beaten The buttermilk marinade carries tang and perfectly illustrates what happens to milk
3 tbsp (45 mL) unsalted butter, melted flavour deep into the meat, while the sugars when long simmered—the clear whey sepa-
in the milk aid in browning the skin. It works rates from the protein and the milk curdles.
1 Heat butter in a large pot over medium best with a large chicken—the length of time Not unlike cheese, the separated proteins are
heat. Once foaming, add onion, leeks and in the oven ensures a beautiful burnished full of flavour, so don’t sweat the curdle—it’s
celery. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring from roast. Serve with your favourite veg or an part of the plan. Not all goat milk is created
time to time, or until onions are translucent easy green salad. You don’t need to peel the equal so be on the lookout for more flavour-
and leeks are tender. garlic cloves. ful organic milk, and be sure to choose whole
milk as opposed to 2 percent.
2 Pour the soy milk and chicken stock over, 2 cups (500 mL) buttermilk
tuck in bay leaves, and season with salt and 1 large head garlic, cloves separated 1 1/2 lbs (680 g) new (mini) white or yellow-flesh
pepper. Bring to a boil (like cow milk, soy milk and lightly smashed potatoes
is prone to overboiling—keep a close eye on 8 branches fresh thyme 6 cloves garlic
it), reduce heat to low to maintain a gentle 1 tbsp (15 mL), plus 1 tsp (5 mL) fine 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil
simmer, cover and cook 30 minutes. kosher salt
1 1/2 cups (375 mL) whole goat milk, preferably
1/2 tsp (2 mL) coarsely ground black pepper organic
3 Give everything a good stir, returning any
accumulated solids from the side of the pot 3 1/2 to 4 lbs (1.59 to 1.81 kg) chicken Salt and freshly ground black pepper
to the liquid. Remove and discard the bay 1 cup (250 mL) roasted red pepper cut into
leaves. Remove from heat. Using an immersion 1 In an extra large resealable plastic bag, strips (from a jar is fine)
blender, purée. combine all but the chicken, seal and give the
3 oz (85 g) crumbled goat milk feta
bag a good shake to dissolve the salt. Open
4 Meanwhile, darkly toast the bread. If still up and slip in the chicken. Squeeze as much air
from the bag as possible, reseal and place in 1 Combine the potatoes and garlic in a large
moist in the centre, dry out further in a 200°F
fridge for 12 to 16 hours. nonstick skillet (the potatoes and garlic should
(100°C) oven for 15 minutes. Break into small
fit in a single layer—if not, remove as many
pieces and finely grind in a food processor.
2 Arrange a rack in the middle of your oven potatoes as necessary and save those for
Measure out 1/2 cup (125 mL) and add to a bowl
and preheat to 450°F (230°C). another use) with a tight-fitting lid. Drizzle oil
along with flour, baking powder, salt and pep-
per (if there are excess bread crumbs save for over. Set over medium heat and fry, stirring
3 Arrange a flat roasting rack over a baking
another use). Add the herbs, lemon zest and from time to time, until light golden, about
sheet. Remove chicken from bag (discard
garlic. Whisk together. Add eggs and butter; 5 minutes.
marinade) and, using your hands, scrape off
stir to combine. Let stand a few minutes to as much of the remaining marinade as you
firm up. 2 Pour milk over, season with salt and pepper;
can. Tuck wing tips under chicken and tie legs
cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to
together using kitchen twine. Set on roasting
5 Using 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the dough at a time, maintain a simmer and let cook 20 minutes.
rack and roast in oven for 20 minutes. Reduce
roll into a ball. Repeat with remaining dough
heat to 400°F (200°C) and continue roasting
to make about 18 balls total. 3 Remove lid, give everything a good stir and
for 20 minutes per pound or until a thermome-
cook another 4 to 5 minutes or until curds are
6 Return soup to medium-low heat and bring ter inserted into the deepest part of the thigh
just starting to brown. Stir to coat potatoes
to a simmer. Gently lower dumplings into soup registers 165°F (74°C) and juices run clear,
with curd (garlic will break down and form
and cook 8 to 10 minutes or until dumplings rotating pan halfway through.
part of the coating), scatter with peppers,
are puffed and cooked through. Serve right 4 Remove from oven and let stand for 15 min- then feta. Remove from heat and cover for a
away. utes before carving. few minutes until peppers and cheese are just
warmed through.
Serves 6 Serves 4 to 6
Serves 4 as a side or 2 as a main

WHAT TO SERVE WHAT TO SERVE


WHAT TO SERVE
Spring-fresh herbs energize this dish and suggest A fruit-forward, softer-tannin style of Pinot Noir
a wine-match starting point. A lively unoaked allows lighter flavours to shine through for a Goat milk, olive oil and a smooth malty ale com-
white wine with hints of mineral and herb and harmonious duo. Red fruit and herb notes echo bine for a mouth-watering trio. Select a blonde
subtle fruit character will fill the bill. between the wine and roast chicken, creating or golden ale to reap malty delights, not so much
a toothsome pairing. the hop-infused IPA style.
Francois Lurton Fumées Blanches
Sauvignon Blanc Vin de France Mission Hill Five Vineyards Pinot Noir VQA Trestle Brewing Co. Golden Ale
LCBO 472555, $13.05 LCBO 145128, $18.45 LCBO 540245, 473 mL, $3.15

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 SHOP ONLINE AT LCBO.COM 99


2 Spread the chocolate out on a clean baking TIP Valrhona makes a prepared caramel-
sheet and bake on middle rack of oven for ized white chocolate. It’s available in small
40 to 50 minutes, stirring every 6 to 7 minutes, baking pellets known as fèves. These can be
until it has the colour of peanut butter. difficult to find, but vanillafoodcompany.ca
offers 906 g bags via the web. If using, you
3 Add cream to a medium-size glass bowl
can skip the step of caramelizing your own
and bring to a boil in microwave; scrape warm
white chocolate and simply combine 12 oz
chocolate into bowl. Whisk until smooth, add
(340 g) of the fèves with the cream in a bowl
salt and let cool. Cover bowl and leave at
set over a pot of simmering water. Let the
room temperature for up to 2 days.
chocolate melt, add salt and whisk until
4 For the cake, preheat oven to 350°F smooth. Proceed as per the remainder of
(180°C). Butter three 8-inch (20-cm) round the recipe.
TRES LECHES LAYER CAKE
cake tins.
Stacking layers and homemade toasted 5 In a small bowl, whisk together flour, salt
almond milk ups the ante on one of Mexico’s and baking powder. In a separate large bowl, WHAT TO SERVE
favourite desserts. I’ll admit this beauty is a combine eggs, egg yolk, sugar and vanilla.
project, but what a tasty one. You can spread Using an electric mixer on medium-high, Layer-cake lusciousness receives an elegant
the work out over a couple of days. Begin by beat until sugar is dissolved and mixture has dimension with a sparkling wine match. Look for
making the Toasted Almond Milk (recipe fol- quadrupled in volume, 6 to 7 minutes. Add half a demi-sec or doux style to get sufficient sweet-
lows)—just don’t drink all of it before making ness for dessert pairing. Fear not, a good-quality
the flour mixture and beat on low until just
the cake batter and the soaking liquid. Also, sweet bubbly won’t be cloying.
combined. Add almond milk and once again
that same day, make the caramelized white beat until combined. Mix in remaining flour Veuve Clicquot Rich Champagne
chocolate and ganache. If you’d rather skip the mixture. LCBO 424341, $89.30
time-consuming (but easy) step of carameliz-
ing the chocolate yourself, see the TIP below. 6 Divide batter between the prepared cake
Lastly, be sure to thoroughly chill the cake tins. Tip or swirl the pans to evenly distribute
before frosting. batter and bake in centre of oven for 24 to TOASTED ALMOND MILK
27 minutes or until a cake tester comes out
CARAMELIZED WHITE CHOCOLATE clean. Making your own almond milk is a cinch.
GANACHE Toasting the nuts before soaking and blending
7 Let cakes rest in tins for 15 minutes then
2 pkgs (each 170 g) white chocolate, adds a welcome flavour to the cake, but it’s
turn out onto a large baking sheet (or 2 if
chopped delicious chilled, straight from a glass. The
necessary). Cool to room temperature.
3/4 cup (175 mL) whipping cream spent nut waste can be added to hummus,
8 To assemble, whisk together cinnamon, va- smoothies or protein balls if you prefer not to
Pinch salt
nilla extract, almond milk, evaporated milk and waste a thing.
sweetened condensed milk in a medium bowl.
CAKE Using a fork, poke holes in the tops of each 1 Tip 1 cup (250 mL) skin-on raw almonds
Butter for buttering tins cake layer. Spoon the milk mixture in equal onto a baking sheet and toast in a 375°F
1 3/4 cups (425 mL) all-purpose flour quantity over each. Let stand for 10 minutes. (190°C) oven for 8 minutes. Let cool com-
pletely, then combine in a bowl with 1 pitted
1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt 9 Gently reheat the reserved white chocolate Medjool date and just enough cool water to
2 1/4 tsp (11 mL) baking powder ganache in the microwave until just spreadable cover them. Let stand at room temperature
3 eggs, plus 1 egg yolk but not liquid. Measure out 1/4 cup (60 mL) and for 10 to 12 hours.
1 1/4 cups (310 mL) sugar add to a medium bowl along with the whipping
1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract or paste cream; refrigerate. 2 Drain and blitz the nuts and swollen date in
a blender (preferably a high-speed one) along
2/3 cup (150 mL) Toasted Almond Milk 10 Carefully transfer one of the cake layers to
with 4 cups (1 L) fresh water and a pinch of sea
a serving platter or cake stand. Top with half
salt until smooth.
TO ASSEMBLE of the remaining ganache and spread out just
shy of the edge using an offset spatula. Top 3 Line a sieve with several layers of cheese-
1/4 tsp (1 mL) ground cinnamon
with another cake layer and repeat covering cloth and set over a bowl. Pour almond mix-
1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract or paste with the remaining ganache. Put final cake ture over cheesecloth and allow liquid to drain
1 cup (250 mL) Toasted Almond Milk layer overtop, cover and refrigerate until thor- into the bowl. It may take a little squeezing
1 can (150 mL) evaporated milk oughly chilled, about 3 hours. near the end as the cheesecloth gets clogged,
1/4 cup (60 mL) sweetened condensed milk 11 When ready to serve, whip reserved cream discard cheesecloth. Chill the milk in the
1 1/4 cups (310 mL) whipping cream and ganache mixture to stiff peaks. Frost the fridge and give it a shake before using. It will
cake with cream, and serve. keep for about 5 days.
1 For the caramelized white chocolate ga-
nache, preheat oven to 275°F (135°C). Serves 8 Makes 4 cups (1 L)

100 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


PAPPARDELLE WITH WHITE RAGU 1 cup (250 mL) dry white wine, preferably 3 Remove lid (milk will have separated and
a dry Riesling appear curdled). If most of the liquid still
You could be forgiven for thinking ragu 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) whole milk remains, continue cooking until reduced to
bolognese is a tomato and meat sauce, but this Pinch ground cloves about a third of the original amount. Stir in
version, without any tomato, is closer in spirit cream, nutmeg and remaining 1 tsp (5 mL)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
to the real deal served in Bologna. There, it is rosemary. Check for seasoning and add more
mostly a milk and meat sauce with only a bit of 1/4 cup (60 mL) 18% MF cream salt and pepper if necessary. Remove from
tomato added to balance the dulcet flavours Pinch freshly grated nutmeg heat and cover while preparing pasta.
of the milk. The ample wine used here lends an 1 lb (455 g) dried pappardelle 4 Cook pappardelle in plenty of salted boiling
acidic backbone allowing the tomato to be left
Parmesan cheese to garnish water until al dente. Just before draining,
out entirely. I’ve borrowed some warm spice return sauce to medium heat; drain pasta and
from a favourite version of a white ragu, made add to skillet. Toss to coat several times, cook-
1 Heat butter and oil in a large skillet with a
from wild boar, that I tried in Siena a few years ing the sauce and pasta together for about
tight-fitting lid over medium heat. Once butter
ago. The resulting sauce is a favourite at my 1 minute. Divide between bowls and top each
is foaming, add onion, sage and 1 tsp (5 mL)
place. The chicken liver adds savoury depth, with a dusting of Parmesan.
rosemary. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the
but because it’s difficult to purchase singly I’ve
mixture is dry and the onion is translucent but
made it optional. Makes 2 large dinner portions or 4 smaller
not golden.
portions as part of a multi-course meal
1 tbsp (15 mL) butter
2 Add the prosciutto, stir to break apart and
1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil cook for 1 minute longer. Crumble pork over
1 small onion, peeled and coarsely grated and cook until no longer pink, breaking up
WHAT TO SERVE
5 sage leaves the meat from time to time with a fork, about
4 minutes. Stir in chicken liver (if using) and Creamy white sauce chock full of savoury pork
2 tsp (10 mL) finely chopped rosemary, divided and baking spices calls out for dry Riesling. Using
cook 2 minutes longer. Add wine, bring to a
4 thin slices prosciutto, finely chopped boil and reduce until a scant few tablespoons it in the recipe creates a delicious echo of spice
8 oz (225 g) ground pork of liquid remain. Pour milk over, stir in clove and acidity. Craving red wine? Try Chianti.

1 chicken liver, trimmed of fat and and season with salt and pepper. Cover, Thirty Bench Riesling VQA
finely chopped (optional) reduce heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. VINTAGES 24133, $22.95

CELEBRATION
YOU C AN TA S T E
From classic steak dinner to appetizers
you can share with friends, you will always
feel celebrated with us.

WHY NOT TONIGHT ?


FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 SHOP ONLINE AT LCBO.COM 101
Celebrate the season 3 Meanwhile, finely chop onion. Or if using
leeks, slice off and discard root ends and dark-
SILKEN ASPARAGUS SOUP

from page 56 green tops of leeks. Cut leeks in half length- Simmer and blend simple, seasonal ingredients
wise. Fan out under cold running water to to create a smooth, bright-green soup that is
remove any grit. Finely chop by slicing length- the definition of fresh spring flavour!
wise, then crosswise. Heat 1/2 cup (125 mL) 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
oil in a large pot set over medium heat. Add 1 onion, chopped
onion or leeks and stir often until soft, about 1 garlic clove, chopped
12 minutes. Add rice and stir until glossy and 3 cups (750 mL) homemade, or 900 mL carton
coated, about 3 minutes. store-bought vegetable broth
4 While stirring constantly, add remaining 3 thyme sprigs
1/2 cup (125 mL) wine to rice. Stir until rice 1 bay leaf
absorbs wine. Ladle in about 1/2 cup (125 mL) 1 large or 2 small bunches asparagus, trimmed
hot-broth mixture. Gently stir until most of the and cut into pieces
liquid is absorbed. Repeat this process with 1 cup (250 mL) fresh or frozen peas
remaining broth, about 1/2 cup (125 mL) at a 1 pkg (300 g) silken tofu
ARTICHOKE & BASIL RISOTTO time. Adjust heat, as needed, so mixture is just 1 tsp (5 mL) kosher sea salt (optional)
simmering throughout cooking. A handful of pea sprouts or shoots, or 2 to 3
This green-flecked risotto happens to be vegan,
asparagus spears, for garnish (optional)
but you won’t miss any of the creamy, flavourful 5 Stir gently and constantly until rice is
deliciousness that you’ve come to expect from tender with a bit of bite and almost all broth is 1 Lightly coat a large pot with oil and set over
this dish. The key to making risotto is continu- absorbed, 22 to 25 minutes. Mixture should be medium heat. Add onion and garlic. Cook,
ous stirring. Invite company into the kitchen to slightly saucy but not soupy. If using canned stirring occasionally until softened, 8 to 10 min-
sip on the wine left over from the recipe while artichokes, stir into risotto in the last few utes. Pour in broth. Add thyme and bay leaf.
you casually stand stove-side swirling away. minutes of cooking just to warm. Stir in basil Bring to a simmer. Add asparagus. Gently boil
oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) at a time until pale green and until asparagus is tender, 12 to 18 minutes.
BASIL OIL delicious tasting. Keep the colour by stirring it
Salt into risotto immediately before serving. Serve 2 Cool soup, remove and discard bay leaf and
any remaining basil oil alongside allowing thyme. Pour soup into a blender. Add tofu.
2 cups (500 mL) lightly packed basil leaves
guests to add to their liking. Blend until very smooth. Just before serving,
1/4 cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil
reheat in a pot until warm and season with salt
3 tbsp (45 mL) water 6 Divide risotto between serving dishes. Add to your liking.
a steamed artichoke to each serving.
RISOTTO 3 For a pretty garnish, sprinkle with pea
6 to 7 cups (1.5 to 1.75 L) homemade Makes 8 cups (2 L) for 8 main servings sprouts or shoots. Or, using a vegetable
or store-bought vegetable broth or 16 side-dish servings and 1/3 cup (80 mL) peeler, thinly shave fresh asparagus. Slice into
1 1/2 cups (375 mL) white wine, preferably dry, basil oil bite-sized pieces and scatter over soup.
divided
2 large onions or 4 leeks Makes 8 cups (2 L) for 8 servings
1/2 cup (125 mL) olive oil STEAMED ARTICHOKES
2 1/2 cups (625 mL) arborio rice
If making side-dish portions of risotto, you may SAFFRON-COCONUT MACAROONS
8 small Steamed Artichokes (recipe follows)
or 1 can (398 mL) whole artichokes in water, want to double the amount of fresh artichokes Vibrant yellow and gently scented, these
drained and chopped in order to have one for each serving. Or make chewy coconut bites will end your feast on
life easier by using the canned option above. a sweet note!
1 Bring a large saucepan filled with water to
a boil. Meanwhile, fill a medium bowl three- 8 small artichokes 1/2 tsp (2 mL) saffron threads
quarters full with ice water. When water has 1/2 lemon 2 tbsp (30 mL) boiling water
come to a boil, lightly salt. Add basil. Remove 1 pkg (200 g) sweetened flaked coconut
after 30 seconds and immediately plunge into 1 Slice pointy tops from artichokes. Imme- 3 tbsp (45 mL) condensed milk
ice water. When cool, drain. Wrap and gently diately rub with lemon. Trim stems so they
1 tsp (5 mL) finely grated lemon zest
press with kitchen towels until dry. Blend in can stand upright. Rub cut ends with lemon.
Generous pinch salt
a blender. With motor running, slowly add Partially fill a pot fitted with a steamer insert
with water so it’s not touching the steamer 1 large egg white
1/4 cup (60 mL) oil through hole in lid until
insert, then remove insert. Squeeze remain- 2 tbsp (30 mL) granulated sugar
incorporated and mixture is fairly smooth.
Season with salt. Slowly whirl in water until ing lemon juice from lemon into water in pot.
1 Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C).
quite smooth and bright green. Set aside while Place steamer back in pot and arrange arti-
preparing risotto. chokes in it. Cover and set pot over high heat. 2 Into a small bowl, finely crumble saffron. Stir
Steam until a knife inserted in the middle of in water. Let stand, allowing flavour and colour
2 Pour broth and 1 cup (250 mL) wine into artichokes can pierce easily, 20 to 25 minutes. to infuse, about 10 minutes. In a separate bowl,
a medium saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer. Serve alongside risotto. add coconut. Drizzle with saffron mixture. Add
Reduce heat to low and keep warm while condensed milk, lemon zest and salt. Stir to
preparing risotto. Makes 8 steamed artichokes evenly mix.

102 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


3 Using a stand or electric mixer and a whisk
attachment, whip egg white with sugar in a
bowl until stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes.
WHOLE-CITRUS CANDIED HAM

Move over pineapple! Candied citrus imparts


Recipe Index
Using a rubber spatula, gently fold egg-white sweet-sour taste and creates a jewelled, col- The following is a listing of the recipes
mixture into coconut mixture. ourful topping all while sealing in flavour.
contained in this issue. For recipes from
4 Drop slightly heaping-tbsp (17-mL) mounds 1 orange previous issues, visit foodanddrink.ca
onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake
1 lemon
until lightly golden around the edges, 16 to APPETIZERS & SOUPS
18 minutes. Let cool completely. 1/2 to 1 cup (125 to 250 mL)
granulated sugar Soy Milk Soup with Toast Dumplings 98
5 Macaroons are best served the day they’re 8 to 12 lbs (3.63 to 5.44 kg) skinless, Silken Asparagus Soup 102
made. If making ahead, they will keep well smoked and cured bone-in ham
Bread & Butter with Pomegranate, 103
stored in an airtight container in the fridge over- 2 tbsp (30 mL) honey Pickled Radish & Onion
night. Bring to room temperature before serving. 2 tbsp (30 mL) grainy mustard Fresh Vegetable & Noodle Spring Rolls 104
Makes 16 macaroons 2 tsp (10 mL) whole cloves with Chili Garlic Hoisin

1 Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). MAIN COURSES


bread & butter with Green Farro Bowl 96
pomegranate, pickled radishes 2 Using a sharp knife, slice orange and lemon
into very thin slices. Place sugar in a shallow Juicy Poached Chicken 96
& onions
bowl. Lightly dip each side of each slice in Mustardy Roast Salmon Fillets 97
Make these pretty pink-topped bites anytime. sugar then place on a parchment-lined baking Salmon Frittata 97
Dinner starter or brunch sidekick, this spring sheet. Bake in centre of preheated oven, Salmon Salad Bowl 97
recipe is delightfully easy to prepare but turning halfway through until glossy and
Sesame Noodle Bowl 97
a stunner nonetheless. lightly candied, about 30 minutes. Let cool
completely. Garlicky Buttermilk & Thyme 99
Chicken Roast
PICKLED RADISHES & ONION
3 Meanwhile, using a sharp knife, score the Pappardelle with White Ragu 101
1 bunch radishes
top of the ham by making shallow cuts about Artichoke & Basil Risotto 102
1/4 red onion 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart, creating a diamond
1/2 cup (125 mL) white wine vinegar Whole-Citrus Candied Ham 103
pattern.
1/2 cup (125 mL) water
4 Bake ham in centre of preheated oven SIDES & CONDIMENTS
1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt
until cooked through and an internal tem- Best Hard-Boiled Eggs 96
1/2 tsp (2 mL) granulated sugar
perature reads 160°F (71°C). This will take Farro 96
1/2 tsp (2 mL) peppercorns 15 to 20 minutes per lb, and depending on Garlicky Greens 96
the size of your ham, 2 to 4 hours of overall
8 slices of good-quality whole-grain bread Zesty Lemon Vinaigrette 96
baking time.
1/3 cup (80 mL) good-quality salted or unsalted Sesame Dressing 97
butter 5 Meanwhile, stir honey with mustard in a Goat-Milk-Cooked New Potatoes 99
Generous pinches of flaked salt (optional) small bowl. About an hour before roast is
Toasted Almond Milk 100
1/2 pomegranate, seeded done, remove from oven allowing surface to
cool slightly. Brush half of honey mixture over Steamed Artichokes 102
1 Thinly slice radishes and onion. Place rad- ham. Approximately 30 minutes before roast
is done, brush ham with remaining honey DESSERTS & SNACKS
ishes and onion in a 2-cup (500-mL) resealable
jar. Pour vinegar into a small saucepan along mixture. Using 2 to 3 cloves for each candied- Peanut Butter, Banana & Cinnamon 78
with water. Stir in salt, sugar and peppercorns. citrus slice, carefully fasten to ham in an over- Energy Bites
Set over medium heat. Stir until dissolved, lapping pattern. Continue baking until ham Sea Salt, Maple & Cashew Protein Bites 80
4 minutes. When salt and sugar dissolve, pour is cooked through. If candied citrus begins Matcha, Coconut & Honey Energy Bites 82
over prepared radishes and onions in jar. Seal to darken slightly, loosely cover with foil then Maple Roasted Rhubarb Parfaits 97
tightly with lid. Shake to evenly distribute continue baking.
Oatmeal Raisin Cookie Balls 98
vinegar mixture. Let stand until completely
cool, about 2 hours. If making ahead, pickled 6 Remove candied-citrus slices and set aside. Tres Leches Layer Cake 100
radishes and onions will keep well, sealed and Discard cloves. Place ham cut-side down on Saffron-Coconut Macaroons 102
refrigerated for up to 1 week. a carving board. Starting at the top, carefully
slice ham towards the bone. Cut along the COCKTAILS & MIXERS
2 When ready to serve, spread bread with but- bone releasing the slices. Arrange ham slices
ter to edges. Cut in half, if you like. Using a fork, Pompelmo Spritz 42
over a large serving platter. Top with citrus
remove radishes and onions from pickling juices, Mojaxaca 44
slices. Serve warm or at room temperature.
shaking off any liquid. Arrange over prepared Champagne Syrup 98
Fresh, cooked leftover ham will keep well,
bread. Sprinkle with salt, if you like. Scatter Herb Stem Syrup 98
covered and refrigerated for 3 to 4 days.
pomegranate seeds overtop. Serve immediately.
Le Classique 98
Makes 8 servings Serves 8 with leftovers Lemon Oleo-Saccharum 98

FOOD & DRINK SPRING 2020 SHOP ONLINE AT LCBO.COM 103


EASY ENTERTAINING

Pull it
together!
Fresh rolls are surprisingly
easy to make and a great way
to do a spring clean in your
fridge and pantry. Paired
with just the right wine, it’s
easy entertaining!
By Irene Matys
photography by darren kemper

Fresh Vegetable &


Noodle Spring Rolls
with Chili Garlic Hoisin
If you think you have nothing
for dinner, check the fridge for
any leftovers or for vegetables
that are on their last legs. This
three-step recipe is a quick and
simple way to make good use of
what may have been destined
for the compost. Fresh rolls are
highly customizable and versatile shopping list
1 2 3
depending on what random 4 tbsp (60 mL) hoisin sauce In a serving bowl, Immerse 1 wrapper Fold bottom edge
ingredients you have. Add in any whisk the hoisin in the water until of the wrapper on
1 tsp (5 mL) chili garlic sauce sauce, chili sauce it softens, approxi- top of the filling.
thinly sliced protein like chicken,
steak or pork as a substitute for 2 tbsp (30 mL) cilantro leaves, and cilantro and mately 10 seconds. Gently pull the
the noodles or any additional chopped refrigerate. Arrange Pull it out of the left and right side
vegetables you have on hand. 8 rice wrappers your ingredients in water and lay it flat over the filling and
the following order: on your damp towel. the folded bottom
16 basil leaves rice wrappers, basil, Place 2 basil leaves edge. Roll tightly to
Strewn Two Vines Riesling
Gewürztraminer VQA 2 oz (55 g) vermicelli noodles, vermicelli, carrots, below the centre close the roll. Cover
LCBO 467662, $13.95 cooked cucumber, cabbage of wrapper. Top with with another damp
and lettuce. Place a 1 to 2 tbsp (15 to towel. Repeat with
An aromatic white wine’s light 1 medium carrot, julienned
clean damp kitchen 30 mL) of vermicelli. remaining wrappers
sweetness tames the spicy heat 1/3 cucumber, julienned towel on a flat work- Top with remaining and ingredients. Cut
of the chili garlic hoisin sauce,
1 cup (250 mL) red cabbage, ing surface. Fill a pie vegetables. in half and serve with
while its crisp acidity will bring up
shredded plate with room- sauce.
the spring rolls’ mild vegetable
temperature water. Makes 8 rolls
flavours. 3 leaf lettuce leaves, chopped

104 SPRING 2020 FOOD & DRINK


Anything but vanilla.
2020 KONA.


and Android Auto™◊ for seamless smartphone connectivity
and advanced technology like the available Head-Up Display that projects
important information within your line of sight while driving. Experience all these
ingredients for yourself and see why the 2020 Kona is one very exhilarating drive.

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™/®The Hyundai name, logos, product names, feature names, images and slogans are trademarks owned or licensed by Hyundai Auto Canada Corp.. All other trademarks and trade names are the property of their respective
owners. ∆Apple CarPlay™ works with iPhone 5s, iPhone 5c, iPhone 5 and later models running the latest version of iOS 7 and above. Apple CarPlay may not be available on all devices and may not be available in all countries
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Untitled-1 1 2020-01-29 3:24 PM

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