When we arrived within a few miles of Berat, which is distant twelve hours from Tepeleni,

the aspect of the country appeared more leasing and cultivated, and the manners of the
people more civilized. Just about sun-set we entered a charming valley extending towards
the north, through which a gentle stream flows into the Apsus and distributes verdure and
fertility in its course.
Here we observed, in several instances, a nearer approach to the country villa than we had
before seen in Turkey: some houses on the banks of the river were surrounded by a lawn,
plantations, and fences, which, with a little more taste, might have been rendered most
agreeable retreats. The rich mellow tints of the sky shed an additional lustre upon the
landscape, as we turned to the right up the magnificent valley of the A psus, where the
towers and minarets of Berat burst full upon the view, with huge Tomour rearing his gigantic
head into mid-air: the grandeur of the view was so striking, that we should have thought this
alone a sufficient recompence for every fatigue in our journey from loannina. Such scenes as
these will justify the bard, who thus describes them after his inspection of the most classic
regions that have been celebrated in the songs of poets.

From the dark barriers of that rugged clime,

Er'n to the centre of Illyria's vales,
Childe Harold pass'd o'er many a mount sublime,
Through lands scarce notic'd in historic tales;
Yet in fam'd Attica such lovely dales
Are rarely seen; nor can fair Tempe boast
A charm they know not; lor'd Parnassus fails
Though classic ground and consecrated most
To match some spots that lurk within this lowering coast,

At the distance of about half a mile up the valley a fine bridge of eight arches thrown across
the Apsus, leads into a picturesque burial- ground and suburb of Berat, to the east of which
rises a noble hill crowned by the fortifications of the citadel and serai of the pasha*; both of
these have been lately much enlarged by their conqueror. From the bridge a road runs along
the right bank of the river to the city, which is higher up the valley, and lies chiefly around
the southeast side of its acropolis. The inhabitants of Berat being almost entirely
Mahometan, we were lodged with a Greek merchant named Nicolachi, in the large suburb of
Goritza, on the left bank of the Apsus, where the Christian part of the population have their
dwellings.
Richly caparisoned, a ready row
Of armed horse, and many a warlike store,
Circled the wide-extending court below;
Above, strange groups adorned the corridor;
And ofttimes through the area’s echoing door,
Some high-capped Tartar spurred his steed away;
The Turk, the Greek, the Albanian, and the Moor,
Here mingled in their many-hued array,
While the deep war-drum’s sound announced the close of day.