SIMON MARTIN JENNIFER COLLINS LISA GOODWIN-ALLEN

FEBRUARY 2024
GABRIEL WAT ERHOUSE ALEX NIEROSVUORI GEORGE HERSEY

GARRE T T
ANDRÉ
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COVER IMAGE
Lateef Photography
2
Twinkle, Twinkle
We are all wondering where the stars will fall at the Michelin Guide UK Reveal on 5th
February, but it's the end of January – print queues wait for no man, and so our full
round up will be published online and then in detail in the following edition.
Nerves can become a bit frayed in the build-up to the reveal. I know, my WhatsApp
is on fire today! There will be some of you who have been longing for that invitation
to fall into your mailbox, yet it hasn't. There may be others who have faced some
upsetting news about their guidebook entry this year, and there will be many who
anticipated an upgrade in their ratings, yet it didn't happen. And though receiving a
gong or two, or three, in the Michelin guide is important news – ultimately, it isn’t
the thing that defines you or your ability. Your team, your customers, your family and
friends and your relationships with colleagues – those things define your success.
I recall, many years ago, chatting with 3 Michelin starred Heston Blumenthal, just
days after his 3-star award. I asked him how it had all been post the news “Honestly
Claire” he said, “It’s been pretty horrid”. Even though he was now the darling of the
UK restaurant scene, he felt a strange combination of being both over and under-
whelmed. I guess what I am saying is – whatever happens on the 5th February, try to
keep some perspective. Simply being able to successfully run a restaurant in the UK
during these challenging times is the biggest achievement in itself.
At Chef HQ – we are in full planning mode for HRC. This year the three-day
extravaganza of everything you will ever need for your business falls between 25th-
27th March at ExCel, London. As customary, we have three days of some incredible
demos, discussions, tastings, receptions and a whole heap of fun. We have an
amazing line-up and some complete ‘meet and greet’ surprises in store for you, so
please do register for your pass and we look forward to seeing you all there.
January also sees the annual Northcote Manor Obsession festival, which we are
fortunate to attend. Craig, Lisa and Kay at Northcote have become super skilled at
bringing some of the most exciting chefs on board for the 18 day festival, which raises
huge amounts of funds for our industry charity Hospitality Action. As I write this, they
are on the way through the final week of the showcase, so a massive congratulations
to everyone who took part – always an extraordinary achievement.
Also in January, chef Clare Smyth, president of our UK Bocuse d’Or team pulled
together all 8 x 3 Michelin starred restaurants and their chefs for a showcase of
gastronomy like no other at the OWO, Raffles, London. The once in a lifetime
experience raised funds to help Candidate Tom Phillips and the UK Bocuse d’Or team
through the European selection coming up in Trondheim next month, and then onto
the Grand Final in Lyon 2025, while also raising funds for the charity Cancer Platform.
Congratulations to all who took part in the seamless execution of this event.
January – almost done. February, bring it on.
Til next time,
Claire
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 In this issue

LISA GOODWIN-ALLEN
CHATS OBSESSION 24

CHEF HQ
ANDRÉ GARRETT
26 BY CHEF PUBLISHING BACK
BY POPULAR DEMAND!

MASTER OF HIS DESTINY

56
12 SIMON MARTIN
MANA MUSIC AND
MOMENTUM

40
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ON THE ROAD TO LYON
PLEASE GET IN TOUCH FOR STOCK SAMPLES AND ORDERS

www.truefoodstld.com +44 (0)1765 640 927 jack@truefoodsltd.com

REF: TF/CP/0224 Photograph: Jodi Hinds
 In this issue
SEAFOOD FROM
SCOTLAND
A STARRING ROLE SCOTTISH
SEAFOOD AT THE BOCUSE
D’OR GALA
HJEM
THE WATER

JENNIFER COLLINS
70 HOUSE PROJECT X

82
PUTTING PEM TO PAPER

58 WELLOCKS
CUSTOMER’S EAT OUT

78
12-13 MARCH 2024
MANCHESTER CENTRAL

“NRB is a highlight
of my year, bringing
together the northern
powerhouse of
hospitality in one place,
to network, socialise,
and plan for the future.
It gets better every year.”
Sam Grainger, Chef,
Belzan/Madre

Book FREE trade tickets at

northernrestaurantandbar.co.uk TRADE
ONLY
 In this issue

BOCUSE D’OR UK
FUNDRAISING GALA 2024

88
LAFONT PARTNERS THE BARN
GEORGE HERSEY,
MICHELIN TIME AGAIN!
WITH NORTHCOTE’S COWORTH CLASSICS
OBSESSION 24
94 100
LOOKING AS GOOD AS THEY
COOK

96
NO ADDED SUGAR
PUREE

Frozen Raspberry purée

For your Mother’s Day creations

Raspberry purée from ‘Les vergers Boiron’ leaves a slightly

acidic taste on the palate thanks to the balance between the
sugar naturally present in the Mecker variety and the acidity
of the Willamette. Rasberries are handpicked using traditional
methods.

Let’s cultivate fruit excellence.

 In this issue
FEA
COOK CHILL SYSTEMS:
GASTRONOMIX
MODULAR CREATIVITY IN
LOOKING AT THE BIG YOUR KITCHEN
PICTURE

114 THE SOMMELIER

128
UKON THEPASTRY TEAM DIARIES
THE ATLAS OF ROMANIAN
WAY TO LYON WINE

106 120
WELLOCKS
PRODUCE NEWS
RECIPES

118 131
AMARE
By Graham Mairs
PASSION FRUIT, KAFFIR LIME
LEAVES AND CHOCOLATE TART
By Shona Sutherland
YKA LEAVES AND CHAMPAGNE
GEL WITH STRAWBERRY AND
BLACK VANILLA GANACHE BON
BONS
By Shona Sutherland
PINK GRAPEFRUIT AND ACLLA
CRESS PÂTE DE FRUIT
By Shona Sutherland
 Words Claire Bosi
Camera
Profiles Lateef Photography
Food Courtesy of Corinthia Hotels

12
 Master of his Destiny
Master of his Destiny
estiny Master of his Des
ster of his Destiny Mast
aster of his Destiny
André Garrett

13

T H E R E A R E M A N Y Q U E S T I O N S I H AV E F O R E X E C U T I V E
C H E F A N D R É G A R R E T T O F T H E CO R I N T H I A H O T E L ,
LONDON – BUT NONE AS PRESSING AS THE ONE I
S I M P L Y M U S T B L U R T O U T A S S O O N A S W E S I T D OW N
TO C H AT . B O R N I N B AT H , R A I S E D I N T H E S A M E C I T Y ,
ANDRÉ HAS A DISTINCTLY GALLIC NAME – WITH A
LITTLE ACUTE ACCENT ABOVE THE ‘E’. YET THE CHEF
P R E S E N T S N O F R E N C H A C C E N T TO M AT C H . S O , H OW
D I D A B O Y F R O M B AT H E N D U P W I T H A N A M E F R O M
ACROSS THE ENGLISH CHANNEL?
14 ANDRÉ GARRETT
“My Mum can answer that one” he laughs,
“My name has absolutely no connection to
France, nor any distant French relatives. I
am named after a pianist who was massive
in the seventies – André Previn. Mum was
a huge fan of his. I have two siblings, Sarah
and Alexander. Then there’s me. André.
With Neil as my middle name. You can only
imagine, as a tiny 4ft 6 inches high kid with
bright ginger hair and an unusual name (for
Bath, anyway), how I was bullied at school.
I had to fight my way through, every single
day. Anyway, Mum’s very pleased with
herself now that I chose this profession,
because it fits very nicely. But you’d be
amazed how many people, to this day, still
expect me to be French”
Though he may not have French DNA
coursing through his veins, André possesses
a great degree of French DNA when it comes
to the foundations of his cuisine. Along with
generational peers such as Anthony Demetre
or Mark Sargeant, André spent his formative
years working in legendary kitchens,
under chefs who accepted nothing but the
best from their brigades, and for whom
respecting the art of gastronomy was the
beginning - and the end - of everything. As
a young chef starting out, André learned his
craft, learned how to cook, taste and smell,
perfecting skills and using techniques oft
lost in the modern day – and it all began as a
child, discovering a love of hospitality from a
‘behind the scenes’ perspective.
“My grandmother used to run a tearoom.
I wouldn’t say she was massively into
hospitality, but she was also a pub landlady,
so there was something about the way
she communicated with people. In those
formative years of my life, between ages 9 to
13, I used to go and visit. I would always go in
through the back door of the kitchen into the
pub. I saw these chefs in their whites, with
their tall hats, in probably quite an elegant
kitchen – and something just fell into place. I
loved that dynamic of being in the epicentre,
being part of a team working as one to create
something. As a young kid, going into that
environment really left an impression on me”
School had been a nightmare, “A complete
and utter waste of time. I just didn’t get on.
I wasn’t academic. Some of the teachers
weren’t very good. Some were, in fact,
terrible. I just wasn’t interested. I wouldn’t
15
 say it was all the school’s fault, it was also
me” But things began to turn around as
André enrolled at City of Bath College “I did
a two-year chef course. I can say that when
I decided that I wanted to cook and that I
wanted to go into a kitchen - that was when
it all started to fit. At college I was a different
person, I loved it”

“At the age of 15, while still at school, I took

a job at the Lansdown Grove Hotel in Bath,
which is on the hill as you go out of the city. I
was pot washing. I wanted to work, needed
to work, wanted my own money. It was my
part-time job at weekends.

“I loved that kitchen. Loved the chef, loved

the sort of transient nature - working all
day and going out at night. I had never been
part of a clique at school. I was never heavily
into sport, or part of any clubs. I had friends,
but not a lot. I was quite a solitary child.
When I look back now, I see how brilliant
it was, taking that part-time job. I started
to get involved in prepping vegetables for
weddings, I began to be useful to the chefs.

16 ANDRÉ GARRETT
I remember there was one chef de partie,
I can’t remember his name now, but he
was a super cool guy. He had travelled the
world and was still a young chef. I can just
remember thinking ‘I want to be like him’. He
inspired me”
Finishing college, it would be his head
chef at the Lansdown who spurred André
on to explore other venues “The chef that
I worked for knew the chef at Hunstrete
House, they were taking commis chefs
straight from college, so I was given an
introduction. The chef, Rob Clayton, aspired
to winning a Michelin star for Hunstrete,
he was always pushing for it. I remember
him bringing in some chefs from London.
Just looking back at them now, they were
incredible. They were early to mid-30s
CDPs - how it used to be. Working on the
sauce section, but real masters of their craft,
making beautiful sauces, taking time - you
know, how a kitchen should be set up. I was
just a commis in the back, treated harshly,
not able to touch the food that was going to
the guests! I worked hard, but it was great. I
loved every minute”
Nico Ladenis sent him off to join Simply Nico,
a sister restaurant to Chez Nico, in Victoria
to ‘go and try your time’. He worked with
Andrews Jeffs, who, to this day has remained
a very close friend and strong ally “The vibe
at Simply Nico was that we were all in this
together. It was a kitchen full of great chefs
at the time, Declan Maxwell was there too.
Such a busy restaurant, really good food.
Not Michelin starred but proper food. We all
worked hard 6 days a week, but we partied
hard as well. Just formidable times”
“Nico would come to Simply Nico to eat on a
Saturday night. He was this big, impressive
character. Very passionate, very emotional
about food. He would usually come in
through the back door of the kitchen and
have his little ‘chef to chef’ chat with Jeffsy,
then say hello to the team. We always had
his classics on the menu, and Nico was right
on top of everything we were doing. We
tried not to make too much eye-contact with
him!” he laughs
“Nico was a fabulous restaurateur as well as
chef. He would be very much wearing his chef’s

After two years at Hunstrete House, and still

in the ranks as a commis chef, it was time
to move on “I wanted to start moving. And
Rob was saying ‘you need to go to London’.
Everyone went to London back then. You
don’t have to now, but you did then. I had a
list of where I wanted to look at. So, I went
and saw a lot of chefs”

“Top of my list was Nico Ladenis, then I also

looked at Kensington Place and Launceston
Place, but it was Nico I wanted the most.
Rob Clayton had worked for Nico before
Hunstrete House, he said to me ‘don’t pick
up the phone. Just go, turn up at the kitchen
door and ask for an opportunity’ Which I did. I
was petrified”

17
 jacket but also out in the room, at the reception,
greeting, working the dining room. Dinah-Jane,
Nico’s wife was very switched on with the
flavours and the dishes, obviously, being French,
she had that touch. Together they were magical”

“I think it gets forgotten that Nico Ladenis was

self-taught. He travelled and taught himself.
I re-read his book, My Gastronomy, recently,
and listened to his Desert Island Discs after his
funeral, just to bring it all back to life. Where
he’d come from, listening to his voice, it’s quite
something. And you hear his story. It’s very, very
important. My Gastronomy was phenomenal
when it was first published and even now, it
resonates. Nico was a formidable character,
businessman, restaurateur, who looked at
things very differently. He just had this sheer
passion to get to the top. And it almost didn’t
matter how long it took, but it was always that
aspiring vision to get there - and he got there.”

I ask what impressions his years working for

and with, Nico Ladenis left on him “Discipline.
Perfection. The art of a great restaurant.
Organisation. Systems. Craft”

From a kitchen that displayed all those

qualities to one which would see the young
chef on his toes and wondering just what he
had set himself up for. Leaving Nico, André
joined Bruno Loubet at Bistrot Loubet

“Yeah, that was massively different” he

laughs, “Sometimes I think about it now. My
God, I walked out of one kitchen which was
strictly organised and tidy with a big team to
Bruno! Chaos. Small team. And busy as hell.
The basement kitchen was made up of two
tiny rooms, I remember working with Anthony
Demetre, I think he was there as sous-chef
before leaving to open Putney Bridge. It was
a huge eye-opener compared to Nico. Space
was limited, so you had no option, other than
to be precise. Bruno was cooking every single
day on the sauce. He would come in and swirl
over, and do his own prep. The menus would
be scribbled out on paper by Bruno, just before
service, so we all had to learn to move quickly,
adapt within a short time frame, understand
where chef was coming from, what he
expected from us. We were constantly in the
shit! But his love of produce, the stuff he would
have brought into the kitchen was insane. I
would definitely say that my time with Bruno
taught me about the raw passion of cooking,
and how a chef can get the best out of every

18 ANDRÉ GARRETT
ingredient, often by not messing about with
it too much. I would have learned a lot about
flexibility and change. There are a lot of chefs
out there that aren’t very good with change,
but I always think I am. Now you have asked
the question, maybe that is where I got those
skills from, they were taught to me by Bruno”

From the organisation and structure of Nico,

through to the flamboyance, passion and
thinking a la minute of Bruno Loubet, the next
move André made placed him back with his
former boss, Nico Ladenis. After two years
with Bruno, he was tempted back to Nico
Central as sous chef. At age 26, as head chef,
André became the youngest ever to lead one
of Nico’s restaurant’s kitchens.

In 2000, André joined Chris Galvin’s brigade

at The Orrery in Marylebone as senior
sous chef, then head chef. After six years
in the role, he then moved with the Galvin
brothers to head chef at Galvin at Windows.
Both restaurants respectively gained and
maintained a Michelin star. It would be
through Chris Galvin that André would be
exposed to the competition circuit.

“It was while I was still at the Orrery, Chris

had always entered somebody for the Roux
Scholarship, there were always people
going through, Alan Pickett for instance, he’d
entered twice, I think. I’d always had the Roux
Scholarship on my mind, but I’d never had the
opportunity or someone to push me to do
it. But then I started with Chris, and straight
away he said to me, ‘You need to get out
there do competitions, for your own profile
and experience’
André began to explore competitions. He
entered the Prix-Taittinger UK and won,
heading to Paris for the finals where he
“absolutely flunked”. “But I was like, oh my god,
this is quite amazing. What an experience. At
the UK finals, there were some incredible chefs
in the room, but when I then went into Paris,
it was next level. I knew then that I wanted to
keep that moving. Pretty soon afterwards, the
next round of Roux Scholarship was coming.
Chris was in the kitchen at Orrery and looked
around and said ‘okay, who is up for the
Roux this year’ and I just blurted out, ‘I’ll do it,
chef’. I hadn’t prepared, didn’t have a dish put
together or anything like that but Chris was like
‘okay, get on it, then’. That was it – I couldn’t
back out then!”
It was 2002, the first and only time André
Garrett entered the Roux Scholarship. Not
just because that same year, he beat off stiff
competition to become the winning Roux
Scholar. But also because he was 29 years
old, he knew the opportunity would not come
around again – he had just one chance.
“The Roux Scholarship is an amazing
competition. The opportunities we have had
- even the guys before me - the networking,
links and the friendships. Knowing the
family on a one-to-one basis, is amazing.
When you win the scholarship, you feel like
you’ve got the world to choose from, it’s
remarkable. More than that, it is no cliche,
but you do become part of the family. I know
that whatever comes at me in life, be it
professional or personal, I have this army of
friendships that are the Roux Scholar family.
I know I will never be alone, there is always
someone out there to reach out to, who
will guide or advise me. That is what being
a Roux scholar is all about. It is far more
than cooking. If you are coming up against
something new, you can always rely on the
Roux scholar family for advice. When I was
thinking about going to the Cliveden, I sought
a lot of advice from Michel Roux Sr, and
he was super generous with his time and
guidance”
When it came to where he would complete his
3-month stage as the winning Roux Scholar,
it was always going to be Paris “Michel Sr
said that he thought Guy Savoy would be the

19

best choice for me, so before I knew it, I was
packed up and inside a 3 Michelin starred
kitchen - the only English speaking person
there, with very little French!”
“Hardcore. But I loved it. After a month
they almost broke me. I was on the larder
downstairs and this one guy befriended
me. In the beginning, he was a nice chap,
but then he turned, and started to get really
bitchy. I was just scrubbing and cleaning and
doing all that stuff - which I didn’t mind – and
he just kept trying to stitch me up. One day, I
had enough. I put him up against a wall. Not
fighting but telling him to back off. It was
right at the end of the shift I sort of shouted
in his face. And then I was leaving, and he
was a bit shocked. I walked out through the
kitchen. The three head chefs that were in
the kitchen at the time - the main head chef,
a head chef that was on the larder section
and looked after his development, of his
other kitchens, and they had another guy
that did other things for him, but he was in
the kitchen every day”
“As I left, the latter two chefs tapped me on
the shoulder. I walked out past the main head
chef, and he just nodded at me. That was
on Sunday, we were then shut for two days.
I walked back in on Tuesday, and everything
was fine. There was never another problem.
20 ANDRÉ GARRETT
It was almost like this little initiation. Nothing
too bad, but there was this little ‘push him,
see what he is made of’ - I’m sure. But it was
a great kitchen and something I have never
forgotten”
Another thing André was encouraged to do,
during his time with the Galvin brothers, was
to improve himself academically, as well as
professionally “Chris had just completed a
degree in culinary management and Fred
Sirieix suggested that I look at a degree that
he had done – a level 5 in leadership and
management.
Given that academic learning had not been
his forte during school years, André surprised
himself with how easily he committed to
the one-year long course “I had never done
that at school. I had never been interested,
never written a project or done a final thesis.
I amazed myself how I could pull it together.
It was because I was genuinely interested in
the subject matter. I was learning my craft
all the time in the kitchen, but I had to take it
forward, learn how to manage a team and
the different personalities that come with it”
The degree required one day a week at
Hammersmith College coupled with a lot of
online work to be done at home and André
sacrificed his days off to improve his skillset
“But it was great, and worthwhile. I looked
at what Chris was doing at the time, when I
was his senior sous chef, and he was doing
his course. Obviously, we then opened Galvin
at Windows with a much larger kitchen.
Suddenly, I had to work with all these
systems, and it was very different as we were
within a hotel - you had to have two heads,
one as a restauranteur, two as part of a hotel.
“I had never experienced anything like the
structure that was expected of me. Then
Fred suggested the course, he had obviously
done it. And I was like, yeah, you know what?
I fancy that”
The business management and leadership
skills that André accrued by giving up a
year of days off equipped him for his next
move in 2013, after 13 years with the Galvin
brothers. The next move was to be a step out
of London, and a huge step up the ladder. To
the five-red-AA-star, 48-bedroom Cliveden
House in Berkshire.
“Executive Chef – the whole shebang.
Breakfast, events, room service, banqueting
and a restaurant that bore my name above
the door. Finally, there was something that
was a little bit mine, it was very exciting. It
was the first time I had run a whole hotel
operation, in such a big, historic house as well.
Having previously stepped into existing
kitchens, this would be André’s first
experience in planning, designing and
overseeing a complete kitchen fit out “How
to work out what is required from scratch
is such a learning curve. I would tell the
designers how my kitchen operated, ‘this is
what we do out of here, that’s what we do
there’ and then the designer would fit it all
together. Then you’d take the initial drawing
and start changing things, it’s a long process
– but important to make sure you haven’t
forgotten anything”
Cliveden House had been bought earlier that
year and appointed Sue Williams as general
manager. The refurbishment began in the
middle of 2014, only six months after André
joined. First up was the restaurant, followed
swiftly by the whole hotel, the kitchens, the
Astor grill and the spa.
“At the Cliveden, I was there in the kitchen
every day, as I wanted to be. This meant that
21
 all the office work would happen at the end
of the working day – and there is a lot of
office stuff with this kind of role. I was always
a chef that worked all the hours god sends,
it’s in my nature – my mum would probably
say I beat myself up in that way, but it was
how I was built. Over time you learn to find
balance. Because what happens if you don’t
is that your lifestyle gets impacted”
André Garrett at Cliveden opened to much
acclaim. The stunning 68-seat dining room
showcased the journey the chef had taken
throughout his career to date - a deep-
rooted understanding and respect for French
gastronomy, a structured and ambitious
brigade, a passion for sourcing the best
produce, the flair and flamboyance of the
seasons, and a love of elegant dining. The
guidebooks, the restaurant critics and the
awards soon came rolling in.
In January 2019, the city was calling, once
again. André departed Cliveden House
to come back to London, where he took
charge of the food and beverage offerings
at Corinthia Hotel, London, excluding Tom
Kerridge’s Bar & Grill. Situated at the heart
of the capital, The Corinthia overlooks the
Thames and is just moments away from
Trafalgar Square.
22 ANDRÉ GARRETT
Housed within a Victorian building, Corinthia
Hotel London has an impressive 283 rooms,
including 51 suites and seven penthouses. The
afternoon tea service, led by head pastry chef
Yago Doamo is renowned for being one of the
most exceptional in the world. As Executive
Chef of the whole hotel, Andre has many
departments to oversee. There is his flagship
Northall Restaurant, the exclusive outdoors-
but-heated Garden, the 24-hour room
service, the breakfast, banqueting and events
“Well let’s talk the whole hotel. With pastry,
we have over 62 chefs. Which is not huge
- if you think about it – we’re a big hotel.
As soon as you start splitting numbers, I’ve
got the Northall team, which is the Northall
restaurant and the bar, which is 10 to 12. The
breakfast team, which is 6. Room service – 5,
the garden - 5, pastry - 15, it sounds like a
lot – 62, but when you break it down to the
specifics – it’s not massive!
“I try to rotate some of the chefs, it is all good
experience for them. I mean you’ll have some
chefs who are very strong a la carte cooks,
they’ll want to stay in the restaurant, but
try to use them in the garden too - because
they want to expand their knowledge as
well. Then there will be other chefs who
want to make sandwiches all day, you know,

and that’s important - hotels need these
types of chefs, too. I also, like Chris Galvin
did with me, encourage my chefs to stretch
themselves, enter competitions, for their
personal and professional growth.
“As we serve room service 24 hours a day,
we must have a sous chef on at nights as
well, looking after the team, running that.
Obviously, it is rare for it to be super busy
at 3am, so the team have a prep list to get
through. They’re almost doing the room
service prep for the following day and cooking
for the staff at night. It’s well organised.
“One focus coming up for us is bakery. At the
moment we don’t do a lot, but we will be
doing more, we want to expand that, it’s on
the agenda. A proper bakery space is big, so I
need to re-jig a little bit. Re-jig the team as well,
we need to push it up to facilitate the bakery. I
know that I need a bit of specialist help to get
this off the ground, I’ve got plans for this in
2024. Once we have the bakery, I would love to
do a little bit of retail from here, too”
With its white columns, modern lighting,
burnt orange leather banquettes and
impeccably dressed tables coupled with
some of the warmest and most professional
service in London, the Northall restaurant
has been consistently recognised by leading
guidebooks and reviewers as one of the
capitals most exciting dining rooms. It’s a
place where you want to go dressed up for
dinner.
And while André has many hats to wear, this
is one hat he is super proud of wearing. His
Northall Restaurant. The Northall is a very
personal project, it is a place where André
can put his culinary background, expertise
and beliefs into practise – where he proudly
shows off intense technical skills and flair
with the finest produce available. The food
screams Michelin star from its double height
ceilings, and it surely couldn’t be long before
one arrives. This is a place where Escoffier
would recognise the true foundations of
gastronomy, over 130 years later. A place
where Nico Ladenis would celebrate
the beauty with which every detail is
choreographed. A place where Bruno Loubet
would recognise the effort put into sourcing
only the very best, and a place the Galvin
brothers would cheer on the leadership
qualities they instilled in their former chef.
ON UNDERSTANDING THE
FUNDAMENTALS
“I wonder if the desire to learn gastronomy is
being undermined by the desire to work on
the next big thing.
“I mean it exists because society moves
towards that, of course. Look at everything
new that opens, everyone latches onto it,
everyone jumps. Everyone forgets about
what is considered ‘old’
“It doesn’t get spoken about much, but that’s
the modern society that we’re working in. I
don’t think it’s right or wrong. It’s just natural,
the way that things are. Professionally and
personally, I still believe it very important that
young chefs who come to work here, in my
kitchen, in this hotel, have the fundamentals
– even know who or what Escoffier was
and stood for - why he was so important to
gastronomy worldwide.
“I know we’ve still got a business to run, and
I’ve got a diverse range of different things to
do. But I still take the time, and have the team
take the time, to do things properly. Explain
to the younger chefs, train and mentor them.
I ask them to go to the markets, meet the
producers, the fishermen, learn from the
suppliers - to give them that edge. Because
they need to know it when they go forward.
How can they make their own style, if they
don’t know how to do everything from
scratch? The way you make a chicken stock,
that’s not going to change. If you put too
much dark vegetable in it, it’s going to end up
being too dark, it’s going to be overpowered.
The fundamentals of cooking haven’t
changed – and they won’t”
ON LOSING OUR UK TALENT
OVERSEAS
“I totally see the attraction, yes. And the
opportunities are out there for them. If I was
in their shoes (and their age) I’d probably do
the same, to be honest with you. I look at my
career sometimes and I think to myself, what
if I had stayed in France? Where, what would
I be doing now had I stayed at Guy Savoy
23
 then moved within France? The beauty about
my role with the Corinthia, is that I have
been able to travel to visit our sister sites – I
particularly loved Malta. But losing some of
our great young chefs to other countries – all
I can say is good luck to them but please do
represent everything that is great about our
hospitality sector here well - and do come
back in the future and bring some of those
inspirations and experiences with you!”
24 ANDRÉ GARRETT
MASTER OF CULINARY ARTS
The Master of Culinary Arts (MCA) stands as
the pinnacle honour for chefs, pastry chefs,
and restaurant managers in the United
Kingdom. The award is only granted once
every four years and was initiated in 1987
under the original title ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de
Grande Bretagne’ and modelled after the
‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’. The award drew
instant support from chefs Albert and Michel
Roux Sr and Michel Bourdin and recognise
outstanding craftsmanship in three areas:
Culinary Skills, Pastry and Restaurant
Management and Service
In 2005, André Garret was listed as a
recipient of the Culinary Skills honour,
becoming the 12th chef to be awarded an
MCA. Today, that number sits at 27, and
includes Adam Smith from Coworth Park
and Spencer Metzger ex-Ritz in the roll call.
Today Andre remains heavily involved with
the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts for their
annual awards of excellence and MCA.
“The craft of a chef is something I am
deeply passionate about, so to be awarded
an MCA was a massive honour. Being a chef
is a craft and so much more than what you
do on the stove, it is a mentality, a way of
life and work.
“For example, with Nico, it was the way the
sections worked. How we all worked together.
Nico would do his famous pomme puree
with a Ratte potato. When the potatoes
were cooking, there would be a shout out.
Everyone would come around the pass and
peel those potatoes as quickly as possible,
then someone else would be passing them
through. If you left that Ratte potato for too
long, it quickly began to get starchy - and
you couldn’t work with it. Everybody would
come to the pass - it was amazing. Then
there would be his famous Bresse chicken,
Artichoke and Foie Gras Ballotine. Everyone in
the kitchen would be involved in the deveining
of the Foie, and it was a big thing. Things like
that – getting to understand your craft.
“That spirit applied to produce, too. When
the van would come to the restaurant, full
of produce fresh from Rungis market, the
whole kitchen would be outside unloading,
unpacking and examining what had just come
in – whether it was Girolle mushrooms,
Artichokes, Truffles, huge amounts of food.
Everything arrived en masse and we would all
spend the next two days prepping and getting
everything away, whether vacuum packed or
blast frozen. Everybody would be on it and
would have to get the produce sorted for the
week ahead. It was an amazing thing to be a
part of and such an important part of what it
means to be a chef”
2007 – BOCUSE D’OR
During his time as head chef at Galvin at
Windows, André tried out for the position of
UK candidate for the Bocuse D’Or. Chosen by
the board to represent the UK at the finals
in Lyon, André came an impressive 10th out
of the 24 countries who entered and set the
course for the UK to continue to become
a respected, determined and ambitious
competitor in the global competition.
ON DINING OUT
“There are so many places I want to go” he
laughs “but I never get around to it. I still
haven’t been to Moor Hall and really want
to, same with Glenturret Lalique, I am super
keen to go there.
“I love Anthony Demetre at Wild Honey, an
incredible chef and proper cooking. I also
really like and admire what Fallow do. If its
casual, you can’t beat a decent French bistro,
but I still enjoy dining out in Michelin starred
places like Core
“I did manage two nights at Gidleigh Park
recently. It was beautiful. I’d eaten before
when Michael Caines was there - but I had
never stayed. It was lovely. Magical. I know
head chef Chris Eden very well, I worked
with him at the Orrery, and we always kept
in touch, he’s a good friend. He seems to be
very happy at Gidleigh. Him and his team are
working very, very hard”
25
 Camera
Lisa and Food Scott Rhodes
Kitchen 7Fifty

It’s a proper
learning curve -
learning about
new ingredients,
new techniques,
new cultures

26
Lisa Goodwin-Allen

THE YEARS MUST WHIZZ PAST FOR LISA GOODWIN-

A L L E N , C R A I G B A N C R O F T A N D T H E T E A M AT
N O R T H C O T E M A N O R . W I T H A S U P E R B U S Y L U X U RY
H O T E L , A M I C H E L I N S TA R R E D R E S TA U R A N T A N D
A F U L L I T I N E R A RY T H R O U G H O U T T H E S E A S O N S ,
T H E A N N U A L N O R T H C O T E O B S E S S I O N F E S T I VA L
K I C K S O F F E V E RY S I N G L E C A L E N DA R Y E A R W I T H A
GASTRONOMIC BIG BANG.
27
 Catching up with Lisa Goodwin-Allen on the
first day of Obsession 24, I must ask - is there
ever a quiet moment in the year where planning
subsequent Obsessions and reflecting on past
ones, is not swirling around your mind?
“Probably not” Lisa laughs “Really, I mean, if
you’re not planning Obsession and events,
you’re always planning what we’re going to do
next with menus, how we’re going to evolve,
training staff and just keeping the business
moving forward. So probably not really, no.
Only when we’re asleep and our eyelids are
shut. But it’s good. I think it keeps the world
going round, it keeps the industry excited, and
it keeps our loyal customers coming back”
Many, many famous culinary superstars from
both the UK and overseas have joined the
28 LISA GOODWIN-ALLEN OBSESSION 2024
lineup of Obsession over the years. Keeping
tabs on who are the movers and shakers,
who hasn’t yet joined the line-up, looking
for new exciting talent is something Lisa
is adept at. Always keeping an ear out for
recommendations, but are there any specific
criteria she is looking for?
“Going about finding our Obsession chefs,
there’s no criteria. It’s a bit of an honour
because we find that as Obsession’s been
going for such a long time, chefs start to
ask us. There are chefs who put forward
peers, too. Chefs who have done Obsession
before and have suggested to friends that
they should come here one year. It shows our
visiting chefs think it is a great event, which
again is just fantastic. Then people like Claire
from Chef & Restaurant Magazine, she is out
29
 and about with chefs throughout the year
and will ask them if they have ever done
Obsession. If they haven’t, she will WhatsApp
me with ‘how about this chef? He/she is keen
to do it’. Obsession is a sector-wide thing.
We look for chefs who are up and coming,
because it’s great to give them a chance and
a platform to do something. Then we have
some returners from previous years, so it’s a
good mix. We generally have a look and see
who’s out there who would be interested in
joining us”

One thing the Northcote team have become

expert at is giving the visiting chefs and their
teams the confidence to cook like they do in
their own restaurants “we give them our team,

30 LISA GOODWIN-ALLEN OBSESSION 2024

the full kitchen, the hospitality and the support
to really enjoy the experience and, hopefully,
come back again another year”
With 18 world class chefs arriving for the
2024 festival, the logistics of ordering all the
ingredients – specialist and regular produce – is
a monumental task that falls to Lisa and her
team to oversee
“I deal directly with the chefs and get all their
orders in. Then it will be me, and a couple of my
team members who will speak to our suppliers
“It’s a very precise thing, we want the cream
of the crop of chefs coming here and must get
them the very best ingredients, the quality they
are used to working with – anything else would
be inferior and a bit of an insult.
“You know, it’s quite difficult. Many times, I can
remember over the years, I’ve sat down to read
through requirements and wondered how I
am going to source certain things. Some of the
overseas chefs, they’ll ask you for ingredients
that you’ve never heard of before. You find
yourself on Google, quite often! It’s a proper
learning curve - learning about new things, new
techniques, new cultures.
“What Obsession brings into Northcote
kitchens - it’s not just the food on the plate.
It’s about all the background work that
everybody does in this building leading up to,
during and after the festival. We are lucky
to have great sponsors such as Wellocks
who we work closely with, who are always
at the end of a phone call. We’ve got some
great meat suppliers. We use Lake District
Farmers; we use R&J Yorkshire: Keltic Seafare;
Hodgson’s Fish; Portland. We have many
brilliant suppliers for many different things.
Classic Fine Foods is another company
we work closely with, as well. Asking for
ingredients that we’ve never heard of before
- that’s part of the beauty of Obsession for
me. Researching, constantly learning. It’s
fascinating”
With so many chefs, personalities and
temperaments coming through the doors into
31
 the Northcote kitchens, I wonder if there has
ever been a chef – over the years – who has
proven tricky to host? “I don’t think there’s ever
been any difficult ones really. I think there are
a lot of nerves that fly around sometimes. But
when the chefs arrive, and they’re comfortable
- they can see that you have organised well -
it’s all good. We give them everything we can,
to make sure they are supported”
When it comes to the office admin for
Obsession – that is the domain of Kaye
Matthews “Kaye is our marketing director,
and she deals with all the logistics. We’ll
pick the chefs and I’ll speak to them about
how Obsession works - then Kaye forwards
32 LISA GOODWIN-ALLEN OBSESSION 2024
all the information, all the marketing and
updates. Kaye has a team of 3 who will deal
with all the marketing and updates, and then
we have another team, Robin and his team
who will deal with all the reservations. And
then, of course, Craig and curating all the
wine pairings - Obsession is not just a one-
man band, there’s so many people that are
involved in it. At the core is organisation. It
runs like a dream when we’ve got it organised
and we know where we’re at. I’m blessed I’ve
got such good teams”
All the most carefully curated events in the
world cannot be exempt from a last-minute
hiccup. With the lineup announced and
guests booking their preferred slot, does it
not give Lisa sleepless nights in the event that
someone just could not attend for unforeseen
reasons? And does she have an ‘insurance
policy’ in the back of her mind to deal with this
problem – should it arise?
“I wouldn’t say that we have a plan. If
it happens, we just deal with it. It has
happened once, and that was last year, where
unfortunately one of the chefs got ill and
couldn’t make it. We thought, right, who could
we ask? It’s when Hrishikesh stepped in for us.
It was great timing for him because he was
just starting at Farlam Hall and Obsession was
a good little platform to get the messaging
33
34 LISA GOODWIN-ALLEN OBSESSION 2024
about Farlam out. Hrishi had done Obsession
before, so he knew what we were about, and
that we would look after him. So no, we don’t
have a plan, I think we just keep our fingers
crossed. If someone drops out, we deal with it”
Over the years, Lancashire has become home
to many incredible restaurants, hotels and
pubs. It is firmly on the gastronomic map and
Obsession has been a key player in raising
public awareness to the county, I ask Lisa what
she thinks Obsession brings to the area?
“It’s a fantastic festival that was set up,
because we are in the middle of little old
Lango in the River Valley in Lancashire.
We’ve got this big gastronomic food festival
that happens every year - that Craig and I
just ‘set up’ and now attracts some of the
most exciting chefs in the world. I think
it gives the locals here an opportunity to
come to Northcote and experience some
fantastic food. We started to invite chefs
from overseas, and guests can come and
experience their food in Lancashire – because
they might never get the chance to of going
over there. I think just gives Lancashire a little
bit more status on the map”
While Lisa’s excitement at the thought of the
next 18 nights of Obsession is almost palpable,
I wonder what she considers are the benefits
of this festival to her brigade, in particular the
more junior chefs?
35
 “I mean, what a massive amount of experience!
For any of my team to go around the world and
stage in all these kitchens, it would be a huge
amount of money and travel – but they get to do
it all here, at Northcote.
“Day by day, we’ve got a different chef coming
in. And, you know, they’re seeing new things,
learning new things, meeting new people,
learning new styles. It’s valuable when they’re
at such a young age. The organisation, and
logistics, is all a great experience for them.
And I say to them, you know, ‘be like a sponge,
absorb, make friends’ - because that’s the
brilliant thing about hospitality. You’d like to
think you could pick a phone up and speak to
anyone. Hospitality’s such an amazing place. It’s
also a small world.
36 LISA GOODWIN-ALLEN OBSESSION 2024
18 consecutive nights of hosting different
chefs, meeting and greeting, catching up
on industry chat, making sure they have
everything they possibly need, being
customer facing and joining in on the ‘after
service drink’ must be a tall order, at the
best of times. I am keen to find out how Lisa
maintains the exuberance and enthusiasm
she displays consistently for the whole
duration of the festival?
“Wow. Do you know what? It’s a privilege to
be able to do all the nights. Because again,
it’s a valuable experience for me personally,
to be able to meet these new people,
see new things, and just to bring them to
Northcote. It’s long, it’s hard, but I think the
adrenaline gets me through it.
“People are so busy in their lives, and I often
say to people, ‘oh, I want to come to your
restaurant’ and then a year passes by, and
you’ve never gone. To then have a different
name in here every night - you know, it’s
incredible. And not only that, but some of our
sponsors have tables and invite other chefs to
come and dine with them. Some nights you
walk in, and the dining room is full of chefs.
But I can’t be pulling a 2.30am every night!”
Hospitality Action is 2024 Charity partner and
has been supported by Obsession for years.
The charity raises critical funds to support
hospitality workers who find themselves
struggling. I ask Lisa why she feels Hospitality
Action is an essential part of our sector and to
say a little more about why Obsession have
supported them over the years?

“I think Hospitality Action - the reason why

we supported it – is that it gives back to the
hospitality sector. It gives back to the people
that we [the sector] employ. For employees to
know that support is out there, especially after
all the hard times that we’ve been through, well,
it’s very much needed. To be able to pick up a
phone and speak to someone, to talk about
problems, whether it’s something small or
something big - that helps. If we can raise as
much money as we can to give back to them
to be able to give more support to our people,
I think that’s amazing. All of us together, we
can do that. Up until 2024, we have raised
over £350,000 for Hospitality Action – that’s
astonishing! And last night, was the first night,
and we raised over £10,000”
37
“To give back to such a worthy charity, one
38 LISA GOODWIN-ALLEN OBSESSION 2024
When you see that, you see it in process, it
makes you think that we need to give more -
because then people will benefit more”

Just as we are finishing up, I wonder if there

are any names, anywhere on a wish list that
she would like to see come to an Obsession
in the future “Bjorn Frantzen – would love
to have him come here and then Massimo
Bottura - total legend, he would be amazing.
Honestly, there are loads more too, but right
now I am looking at a very busy kitchen, so
need to crack on!”

And a very busy, bustling kitchen it is, with

Gareth Ward about to take centre stage for
the evening. Chefs aside, with so many plates,
glasses, pots, pans and knives to get through
during this festival – there is one team who
most definitely deserve the biggest shout out –
the Northcote KP team?

“Without them, we couldn’t do our day-to-day

jobs. They help us keep this Northcote kitchen
in perfect condition. We like to try and train
our KPs, so we ask them if they would like
to be involved with prep. Yeah. We definitely
could not do Obsession without them! Sean
and Gary have been with us for years - maybe
coming up to ten years, you know, two very
loyal lads. The whole KP team is remarkable
and deserve a massive shout out for all the
support they give the chefs”

39
 Words Claire Bosi
Camera Tim Herbert

Simon Martin

music and momentum

40
 “I’M NOT RELIGIOUS, BUT I AM FASCINATED WITH RELIGION AND THE HISTORY BEHIND IT. I
THINK THERE’S DEFINITELY SOMETHING IN IT, SOMEWHERE. I DON’T THINK ALL THE RELIGIOUS
TEXTS CAN BE JUST STORIES. THE BIBLE HAS MANY AUTHORS; I THINK 15 DIFFERENT WRITING
STYLES HAVE BEEN IDENTIFIED OVER TIME. BUT IT IS LIKE HUMANKIND HAS ALWAYS WANTED
TO BELIEVE IN A PLACE, OR FEELING, OF SANCTUARY. FIND A MEANING OR PURPOSE IN
LIFE. FOR SOME, THAT MEANS DEVOUT RELIGION. FOR OTHERS, LIKE ME, THAT MEANS
DISCOVERING THE THING THAT BRINGS ME PURPOSE. THAT THING IS MANA”
41
 You may wonder why, when sitting down with
Simon Martin, we begin by chatting about
religion. It’s a subject not often high up on my
list of notes. But the truth is, when I entered
Mana on a freezing cold winter morning, I
instantly experienced an immediate sense
of calm. The restaurant was not yet dressed
for service, the team were busy unpacking
produce, there were deliveries coming in -
however there was something familiar about
the layout of the room. But not in a restaurant
way.
“Hardly anybody knows, because nobody
has ever asked about it, really. But we started
to lean into this almost religious design that
has progressed over the course of time. The
kitchen is almost like the altar, and you can
42 SIMON MARTIN MANA
see the crosses in the lights representing
the kind of crosses that you would find in a
church. The gold heart up above the kitchen,
that represents the biology of man and the
truth that the heart of the restaurant starts
within the kitchen”
As Simon talks me through all the tiny details
– the pillar candles on each table, the super
modern, almost crucifix like, lighting hanging
from the impressively high ceiling, the mech
angels of the back of the teams clothing, the
corn sheaths representing harvest on the dark
walls – everything becomes clear. Before a
guest even sits to eat, every element of the
restaurant design has been curated to deliver
a subliminal message. Religion has many
faces, and individuals make of it what they
want. For Simon and his team – religion is
Mana.
“It’s like the tables are the pews and the
kitchen’s the altar. It goes a little bit too far
to say that we want people to worship the
kitchen, but it is the most important part of this
restaurant. It’s kind of like, if Christianity was
created in 2024, maybe this could be what, for
some, it might look like”
Simon Martin opened Mana in Manchester in
2028, and in October 2023, they celebrated
5 years of the restaurant “It’s insane. We had
our 5-year anniversary, and I couldn’t believe
it. I mean if it wasn’t for Covid I think it would
have felt like five years, but we were essentially
closed for two”
In 2019, Mana was awarded its first Michelin
star, the first in Manchester for 40 years. When
we met, it was only a couple of weeks before
the February 2024 Michelin reveal. This year,
for the first time in history, the reveal was held
in Manchester. Given that Mana is closed on
Mondays, I ask if Simon had taken requests
from chefs to open?

“We’re not open for lunch until Thursday, but

we sent out invites out to a bunch of chefs
for the Monday. I had quite a few people ask,
people I’ve never spoken to as well. I thought
I’d spoken to every chef with a star in the
country, but there are a few in London that, I
suppose, just crack on and keep their heads
down. They all came out of the woodwork”

With only 24 covers and demand far

exceeding the capacity, Simon had to think
carefully about the invites. There are people
who have supported him throughout his
journey, and those who have inspired him.
He knows there is a chance someone,
somewhere, might get ‘a bit pissed off’ that
they didn’t receive an invitation, “But there
are a few people who I absolutely wanted
to invite. Mark Birchall, he has always been
fantastic with me, I owe him a lot for all
the advice he has given me over the years.
Raphael from Da Terra, because we had
a lot of conversation when my old head
chef, Connor, went down to work with him.
Santiago from Kol, because I worked with him
at Noma, Paul Leonard from Forest Side –
he’s one of my best mates, I had to ask him!
Everyone had a plus one – so we could only
invite 12 and there were people I wanted to
invite who have travelled in from a long way
and may not be in Manchester that often”

The Michelin awards always become the hot

topic of conversation as the date draws close,
but Simon and I steer away from speculating
– too much. ‘What if’ and ‘maybe’ become
pointless so close to the big day. It is, after all,
too late. Chefs across GB and Ireland await
their fate with bated breath. We do, however,
have a good old laugh about the Michelin
online reveal back during the pandemic times,
when I broadcast the reveal live on split screen,
with chef guests Gareth Ward, Tony Parkin
and Kenny Atkinson commenting during the
programme
“That was so funny – I remember watching
it” he laughs “Was Gareth really dressed as a
mermaid or something, I think he was sitting
in an inflatable thing, half naked and drinking a
pina colada! Tony Parkin had zero filter and his
comments were hilarious. Kenny was brilliant,
and you could see was shocked at some of
the things Tony came out with - but it was
an awesome watch – and we all needed that
laugh during those times!”
In 2018, the name Simon Martin would not
have meant much to many. The chef had just
turned 28 years old and had returned from
Noma, Copenhagen. Coming back to the UK
was prompted by the struggles of a long-
distance relationship and the Shropshire-born
chef had to decide what and where would
be his next step. Manchester offered both an
easy connection to home, in Ellesmere, and a
city that was very much in its ascendance. But
where to begin? The chef had no knowledge of
business plans, forecasts and investment?
“It’s a funny story. A guy called Anthony Barnes
used to have a restaurant in Manchester called
Squid Ink. Anthony had come to eat at Noma
when I was there and Rene had this thing where
you serve people from your country, when they
visit. When I came back to the UK, I got in touch

43
 with Anthony on Twitter, asking him how I would
go about finding a place in Manchester? That
was all I asked. The next thing I knew, Anthony
had put it out on social that I was opening a
restaurant!
“I was like, okay, well, I don’t have a business
partner, but I’m just gonna let this fly. Any
publicity is fine at this point. Anthony’s 2000
strong following was enough for Manchester
Evening News to pick it up. Within a couple of
hours, I was doing an interview over the phone!
But, to reiterate – I had no venue, no backer, no
real plan – nothing!
“After the interview, I had a few messages,
people were getting interested in being
involved. One guy, Joel Adams, who’s now my
business partner, got in touch with me. He
said, ‘do you mind meeting up because I want
to let you know how I feel restaurants let me
44 SIMON MARTIN MANA
down in Manchester’ I thought, that’s a little
bit ambiguous and I was intrigued to meet
him. I thought there was more to it, or I was
clutching at straws. I thought, you know what,
I’m not doing anything. I might as well go
and see the guy. He wanted to find out what
the plans were and started asking questions
about the business aspect and the financial
aspect, and how we saw it working. At the
end of the meeting, he just said, ‘send me
a business plan’. I’d never fucking written a
business plan before!”
Back home, Simon had to set his mind to
creating forecasts and scenarios that would
impress his business partner and set the
wheels in motion, “I was able to Google
everything, which was super helpful. I used
a software called Live Plan, which I think is
fantastic still to this day. My parents always
had businesses, so I suppose I had an almost
conscious business mind, just from hearing
their conversations and being around it. But I
mean, I’d never been a head chef, let alone a
chef patron”
From that Manchester Evening news piece
came a prospective business partner, “then
we had some interest from developers, people
offering us the chance to go and view sites. So,
even without fixed investment, yet - we went
and looked. This site we are sitting in - is the
first one we saw. We never saw another one
after this.
“This whole area was a building site. I had to
work hard to come and see it for the first time.
There was nothing here. I didn’t know anything
about Ancoat, I didn’t know at the time, that
my grandad grew up here. All I knew is that
I needed a restaurant, I needed a space, and
it needed to be empty and relatively square.
There was something attractive about the
virgin aspect of the space, it’s only us that
have built history here. It’s in the walls. I think
very much, certainly during a busy service, the
energy is very palpable.
“I had met James Roberts Designs through
a small pop-up I had done, to try and raise
awareness prior to the Manchester Evening
News article, so I reconnected with him. At
this point, I was taking advice from whoever
I could get. The people that I ended up with
just happened to be brilliant. It was a real little
squad, really. We ended up with a good crew of
people working on the restaurant. To this day,
we all remain very close friends”
Simon chose his brief to the design team with
consideration “I was careful with the words
‘Nordic’ and ‘Scandinavian’ - although that
was what we were labelled with, in the early
days. I think it’s quite obscure, really - Nordic
or Scandinavian design - because in itself, it’s
heavily influenced by Japanese design so what
actually is it? Is it Japanese? Is it Nordic?
“I said I wanted the design to be minimalist.
I didn’t want it to be stuffy, I wanted a place
where you could breathe. I wanted bare
materials. Everything that could be touched
needed to be of the highest quality. One of
these chairs alone (we are seated in the bar
area) is £4,000. We spend a lot of money. I
didn’t realise the cost of furniture! Money goes
only one way, for a very long time. Out. Even
now, with the nature of this restaurant being
progressive and wanting to keep evolving, it’s place, he took a massive gamble, signing off made. Which is something else to cringe at. I
still very expensive” on a kitchen fit out of £350,000 of which he, made our very first website, it wasn’t even on
personally, would be liable for a third, should WordPress or anything half decent.
He knew that the restaurant he wanted would things not come together in fruition. He laughs
not be a 120-cover venue. There were certain about it now, “I didn’t have a penny and the “I was lucky that Connor came to work with
influences from his time at Noma he could use kitchen was 350 grand. The company said if us from Manchester House and Rogan and
as his reference. Simon knew the size, scale and it didn’t work out, I would have to cough up Co then stayed with us for four years. He’s at
style he wanted from his own restaurant and over 100 grand. I’d never even seen a hundred Da Terra now. But for the opening, we were
own cuisine “But I was massively winging it” he thousand pounds in my life, so it didn’t make a room full of people who didn’t know each
laughs “Honestly, I look back five years ago and, a difference to me! But I just felt confident other. The stoves had not even been turned
oh, if I were to go to that restaurant now, I would in my core that this was the right place, and on; the building had never been a restaurant
be like - what the hell are you guys doing?!” everything would come together. And it did” before and was in a part of town that had
never had a restaurant like this in it! We lost
“I ended up with a good interior designer, a With access to the kitchen just a week before two people before we even opened, in that first
great fit-out group in CHR and a brilliant kitchen Mana opened, Simon and his team were week. One guy got fired and the other guy had
builder. The amount of luck that came my thrown right in at the deep end “I don’t think a family accident or something. But now it’s
way throughout the whole process really is any restaurant opens in the scheduled way fantastic. My team are incredible”
astonishing” that it’s supposed to” he laughs “We had a
week. We sort of pulled the menu together. With incredibly high ceilings, you could expect
Blind faith certainly played its hand for Simon My opening team all just came through the restaurant to feel echoey, however clever
Martin. Without having the money firmly in social media or applied on the website that I use of natural materials, full length drapes and

45
 soft lighting, remove any of this. Music is played
during service, so naturally I ask – what music
fits best with Mana?

“We’ve gone through moments of playing some

alternative stuff and I don’t think our design or
food lends itself to that. In the very beginning,
we were playing a genre called ‘chillstep’. It was
fine, but it still didn’t feel right. Then I watched
the movie Drive, with Ryan Gosling.

“I’d never heard this sort of 80’s inspired synth

wave electronic pop dance, and I thought this
would be perfect. Initially we just started playing
the Drive soundtrack and it was a very palpable
change in the restaurant. Many people hadn’t
heard this genre before, though it’s a lot more
prevalent now. It’s worked really, really well.

“When you do something and you’re like, ‘oh,

this is what I was meant to be doing’ it’s a great
feeling ‘this feels right, we found it’. With the
nature of being a progressive restaurant, we’re

46 SIMON MARTIN MANA

always changing and constantly moving things
around, trying new things.
“With music, it’s almost like a dish on the
menu. Sometimes you come across a dish and
know that it works – it’s going to be around
for a while. It was the same with the music
when we started playing that genre. Thanks
to Spotify, from the back of that Drive play
soundtrack, we get Discover Weekly and get
more music in that genre recommended. I’m a
big fan of Charli XCX, we started putting some
little Charli songs in there and then discovered
a couple of Ali X and Luna – we’ve gone
through quite a playlist now”
“I like to be involved with the music we
play because it’s all part of this restaurant.
Ultimately, I don’t really understand restaurants
that don’t play music - you’re trying to create
an experience for people in a restaurant. One
of the most powerful and easiest tools to
manipulate the way people feel is through
music. So why on earth would you not do
that? Humans have many senses – taste,
touch, smell, sight – and sound. Just having the
kitchen out in the restaurant, you walk in, see
the movement of the chefs, smell the food, it
immediately puts you in a good mood. I liken
it to going to a house party – a nice one, not a
teenage one!
“Huge corporates have been doing this for
years, right? You walk into a supermarket, and
they have a bakery smell Suddenly, you can
smell freshly baked croissants, whether it’s a
real smell or not. You buy it, right? And you enjoy
it, or you crave it, because you smell it. Even
McDonald’s - going back to music - they’ll play
fast music when it’s busy to turn more covers,
and slow music when it’s not busy to make it
appear popular, to keep people in. When I found
out that fact about McDonald’s, it made me
realise, how very powerful music can be. Using
music as an application for the restaurant, it just
made sense”
As with all chefs opening their first solo venture,
when Simon looks back, there are things that
‘make me cringe’ and a couple of things he
raucously laughs at “Some dishes are like,
‘oh my god, did we really do that?’ We used
to have this dessert on and would have some
juniper in a vase on the table. It was like the
table decoration. At the end, we used to go over
and blow torch it so you could get the smell of
juniper over the dessert. Thinking back now,
I can see myself doing it, and it just makes
me cringe! My mind’s trying to save itself by
forgetting some of the things that we did. But
hopefully, I’ll be sat here in another five years
saying the same thing about what we’re doing
now”
“But you know, I don’t regret doing any of those
things, it is all part of our story of evolution. I sat
down and ate the menu here last Wednesday,
exactly how a diner would experience the
evening. It always produces a list of things that
we need to change, and it’s never anything
47

huge. If anything, it’s more self-criticism
because it’s nothing to do with anything the
team are doing wrong, it’s my judgment that’s
off. Sometimes it’s just balancing, balancing
as produce changes and seasons change, you
know.
“After the meal, I was giving everyone quite a
bit of praise and saying, that I felt it was the
best menu we had ever done.”
With 15 team members in the business, seven
services per week and only 24 covers, Simon
knows that Mana will never be his cash
cow “It was never the goal to line anyone’s
pockets, this restaurant, you know. There’s a
point where you just have to love what you’re
doing. If I can pay the bills and the team, I am
happy. It does make me laugh when I see
what young chefs are earning now, compared
48 SIMON MARTIN MANA
with what I earned at their ages – my guys
can all afford air pod Pro’s, I can’t! Times have
changed and I am happy for them, but I guess I
am a teeny bit jealous!”
When Mana opened in October 2018, the
menus was around 12 courses long. Today
the menu delivers 16 courses, served in
quick succession “We were doing 32 covers
and turning tables. Within about three or
four months of opening, I decided we’re not
turning tables anymore. We were going to
do 26 covers, now we do 24. The margins
are tight, but as long as you keep tight, you
can go anywhere. The pace of the menu is
important to me, too. I think 9 times out of
10, restaurants, for me anyway, are too slow.
When it’s a spoonful or a forkful or one or two
bites, there’s no need to have a break between
each fucking course.
“Another interesting thing I’ve found with a
tasting menu is this - when there’s a long time
in between courses – guests drink water or drink
wine, which fills them up. By the end of the 12, 16
courses, they feel over-full.
“With courses in quick succession, people do
drink less. Of course, that’s not so great for
upselling on wine. But, on the plus side, alcohol
inhibits the ability to taste food. At the end of the
day, a little bit to drink is great - especially if the
wine goes well with the food.
“I made a massive mistake up until about a
year ago in not serving our bread until the main
course. Because there were no carbohydrates
until way through the menu, everyone would
get drunk, there was nothing filling them up! I
never wanted to serve ‘bread for the table’ but
we do a bread course now and it’s earlier on in
the menu”
As time has gone on, Simon has evolved his
cuisine style to be “Very stripped back. Putting
all that work into finding the best produce
makes you question what should be there or
just isn’t there”
“It has kind of led us into this almost non-
seasonal menu right now. There are things we
can have on all year – and it’s always at its best,
and that’s simply because of the fermentation.
It’s just our style of cooking here.
“We will use all the elderflower we can get
our hands on, all the white asparagus we can
get our hands on, we buy tons and tons of
the stuff. We even have more staff during the
growing seasons because we need to process
everything. Then, some things can be made
into a miso, or made into a garum. It can all be
preserved in some shape or form.
“The original plan was to preserve in the
summer and then use in the winter, but as time’s
gone on, we’ve found that we’ve always got
produce. We’ve always got pickled elderflower,
we’ve always got lacto-fermented white
asparagus. We’ve always got beef garum, which
we make when the beef is at the best in the
spring and summer, when they’re eating grass.
“It’s all been quite a natural process really, in
most parts due to the fermentation and the
preservation and application. And then the other
thing that enables it is, I just like protein”
Teetotal and conscious about his own
eating habits, Simon prefers a diet with less
carbs – more carnivore “The idea of a 50%
carbohydrate led diet, in my opinion, has only
ended up being that way because there’s a lot
of people on the planet to feed and it’s easier,
cheaper to feed everybody on carbohydrates.
Nobody can afford to eat only meat. There
are too many people to feed, anyway, and
we don’t have that much livestock. This
current modern diet, or to label it the modern
American diet, all came from a baby boom. A
huge rise in population and the governments
went, ‘oh shit, how do we feed them all’ The
next thing you know, it’s the pyramid of sugar,
wheat, and dairy”

“I quit alcohol in June last year. I just feel a lot

better, purer. I’m enjoying life, so I want it to be
long. I think alcohol is very much going out of
fashion, that’s why we offer such an interesting
non-alcoholic pairing and fermented teas.
I often get comments about it, I don’t think
we even did it on purpose, the non-alcoholic
range, it just sort of happened because we’re
interested in it.

While we have been chatting, the chefs have

unboxed, prepped and dressed the kitchen
ready for service. Isabel, the restaurant
manager has been deftly lighting the pillar
candles, cranking up the heating, wax sealing
the menus and perfecting the lighting – the
time has come for the guests arrive, and I must
leave Simon to welcome his diners in.

“You know, Mana has been one hell of a roller

coaster ride. I could say that over the past year
and a half, things have really settled. That was
always the challenge. Being a new restaurant,
we didn’t really have any foundations. Nobody
knew me from Adam, that’s why I opened
in a city. And hopefully one day I can have a
restaurant in the countryside”

Wait! What?!

“That would be my dream, one day, far down

the line. With a whole farm. Camp Mana -
teepees for staff accommodation, with a
lake, majority self-sustainable, that kind of
thing. I don’t think I’d ever want to let go of this
building though – we will always have Mana –
it’s too special to let go.

And so, with that, I step out into the cold

Manchester air, knowing I will return in a

49
 week or so to find out exactly what the
2024 Michelin Reveal will bring, not only the
chefs of Manchester, but for chefs across
the Great Britain and Ireland. By the time this
magazine goes live and off to the printers, it
will be too late for me to adjust the article to
accommodate any changes. But my gut feeling
tells me, a double star entry for Manchester
will very soon be on the horizon...
ON PRODUCE
“I wouldn’t be able to give you an exact
figure, but we have well over 100 suppliers.
We do try to take the best of everything,
and we find that the best suppliers normally
produce one thing brilliantly. Like the
dairy for instance, we get ours from near
Knutsford, it’s all raw dairy.
“We are in quite a good area geographically, it’s
surprising. Within a short drive you can be in
the Peak District. We’ve got Shropshire, we’ve
50 SIMON MARTIN MANA
got Cheshire - there’s loads of countryside in
Cheshire we get some great produce from. The
soil’s good there, nice and sandy.
“We do use Wellocks; they do some of the
legwork for us. But these days, everyone’s got
a social media platform, so we spend a lot
of time finding and researching ingredients.
Then, on a Tuesday, we’ll get into a car, and
we’ll go down, see what people are doing.
We use Cinderwood Market Garden, which
is near Nantwich, an ethos driven enterprise
- no dig, no GMOs, herbicides, pesticides,
anything like that. Then there’s another
one called Growing Field 28, which we’ve
supported. When we first started using
Growing Field five years ago, they were just
growing little trays of micro herbs. Now it’s
a full-on farm, a full-scale farm, and I like
to think that we’ve sort of supported them
through that.
“Growing Field 28 will now grow specifically
for us. What we do, at the start of the year,
coming up to February, is that we’ll go over in
February and plan, we have a good 3-4 hour
walk around the farm. Due to the format of
the restaurant, what we know we like and
what they’re confident that they can grow
to our standards, we say we’re going to take
1,500 carrots at 8cm long and we’re going to
have a constant turnover of this oxalis that
needs to go into this dish, things like that. We
give Growing Field give them a full sheet of
what we want this year, and we commit to
buying that.
“It’s like having our own private farm already.
We’re not in the countryside however we
wanted the policy to be the same and we
thought we can’t have a farm, but we can
work with a farm and treat it like it’s ours.
That’s what we do with Growing Field and
with Cinderwood.
“We have a huge focus on shellfish, because
people forget that we are an island and we’re
surrounded by water. Most of our seafood is
from Scotland. We do use Flying Fish, which
is based in Cornwall, but less and less as time
goes on. Scotland’s quality is incomparable.
We’re closer to some areas of Scotland,
than we are to the South Coast anyway. And
we find that it’s better and it’s cheaper. The
thing is, when we buy from Cornwall, we pay
London prices. Because it’s always all about
London. We pay for the courier, all the rest
of it. And, if we’re going to pay for a courier,
we might as well get it from Scotland. We’ve
basically got this fisherman called David
Lowry up in Scotland - he’s a bit of a hippie,
sometimes not that reliable! But getting much
better.
“We had this langoustine serving out for a
long time. I would say, these are the best
langoustines in the world. Even Japan
buys Scottish langoustines for their best
restaurants. The scallops that we’ve got on
the menu now are coming from the Shetland
Islands. They couldn’t be further away from
Scotland. They’re closer to Norway than they
are to Scotland, that’s how far north it is. But
we can get scallops out of the water in the
Shetland Islands, then on to on a little two-
seater aircraft, C152 Cessna, about an hour
north-east of Edinburgh, to David Lowry, and
then he gets them driven down to Mana. We
open them and they’re still moving. The best
quality, super fresh and very alive, out of the
water and down here the following day”
WHAT IS IN A NAME?
“Mana means a lot of things in many
different languages - it even means bread
in one language. The meaning I took from
my research, was from a description that
I read that essentially described mana
as an ‘energy which is harnessed by an
ambassador of the elements’ I thought that
was quite fitting for a chef-led restaurant,
because at the end of the day, everybody
knows that the produce we work with is
everything. We can’t make anything great
out of something rubbish.
“I felt like the name was fitting and it was
obscure enough that people would need
to ask, which I like. It’s simple, it’s easy to
remember, it does get mispronounced
sometimes as ‘Marnar. Or Manor’ as in a
house. I didn’t think too long and hard about
it. I thought energy was literally everything in
existence, we’re covering all bases from that
perspective. The ambassador of the elements
is a perfect way to describe a chef.
THERAPY
“I always used to think therapy was for people
who had something wrong with them. It’s
considered a lot more normal in America,
something people just have as part of their
regular lives. My girlfriend is from the USA and
suggested that I look at it – she said that a
lot of perspective can be worked out through
therapy.
“So, I decided to try it out and it’s been great.
Talking does help you get perspective on
things. If I have a reaction to something that I’m
not proud of myself for, I find I can understand
my reaction through therapy. You get to a stage
in your career as a chef where you stop having
guidance. You’re left to your own devices. The
buck stops with you. Nine times out of ten
none of us are ready for the job.
“Trying to explain to a 20-year-old commis
chef that if he doesn’t cut the radishes
correctly then he is affecting the whole dish,
that of the guest experience – ultimately,
down the line, my restaurant and my life,
can be frustrating and difficult. Years
ago, chefs would have just exploded with
anger in the kitchen, today we have to be
calm and explain, but you still harness the
frustration inside of you. We all need to have
somewhere we can output all the noise that
goes on in our heads – for me, that is talking
therapy”
51
 PROTEST
“I mean, to this day they don’t think
they’ve done anything wrong. But they’ve
embarrassed themselves by not doing their
research”
In December 2022, during a normal evening
opening, Animal Rebellion decided to take
siege of Mana. If ever there were a testament
to how therapy has helped Simon cope with
frustrating situations, surely this may have
been one of them?
“Animal Rebellion, at the time, seemed to
be targeting specifically Michelin-starred
restaurants, because these places are in the
public eye more than any other restaurant.
They knew that they were essentially going to
get the most clout from doing it here, when
I’m sure they’re aware that there are other
restaurants that would be more fitting to
protest at. Hijacking Mana would go straight in
the news.
“Our achievements should not be used as
ammunition for a cause which does not apply
to us. Yes, we serve meat, but all of us here
at Mana, we go and inspect the farms our
produce comes from. We investigate their
husbandry, their welfare and their practises.
We know that happy, well cared for animals are
tastier animals.
52 SIMON MARTIN MANA
“We do have peace of mind that we’re not
supporting animal cruelty. Their justification
was that we don’t serve a vegan menu. I must
explain this. We’re not a public service. We’re
not a canteen, a government funded canteen,
we’re an independent restaurant and I can cook
whatever I like. Point number two is I can’t go to
a vegan restaurant and get a burger. And point
number three is it has nothing to do with ethics
whatsoever. It’s simply logistically infeasible for
us, in our restaurant. It’s logistically infeasible
when we already do a vegetarian menu. But
then when you add in dietaries, which are
becoming more and more prevalent as time
goes on, and then add in a vegan menu, it’s just
too much. Vegans are the minority out of others
- pescatarians, any sort of aversions due to
religious reasons, and then allergies. Vegans are
the smallest group, so that’s what makes sense
for us as a business, to not cater for them”
On a fully booked out evening, the protesters
arrived, entered and sat down in silence, holding
green menus. As the expected diners began
to arrive, they were forced to wait in the bar
area, while Simon attempted to deal with the
situation.
“The protesters just sat there, in silence,
wouldn’t speak at all. I tried to speak to a couple
of them and asked why they were here? They
wouldn’t even tell me that”
“I think, for the most part, the diners who were
supposed to be here, found it amusing in the
beginning, but then quickly became frustrated
when they started getting hungry and we
couldn’t feed them. Obviously, the protesters
were trespassers, were occupying the tables
and it was about three hours until they had
enough police here to remove them all. I know
we had the power to forcibly remove them
ourselves, however I wasn’t going to do that,
nor ask my team to be involved in doing that
– I don’t really think that falls under their job
descriptions”
“It was quite it’s quite heroic really, the way that
everybody rallied together. We even had a guy
who had left to go and work down the road.
He found out what was happening over social.
He messaged us came back just for the night,
just to help us out. We pulled together, kept
calm and we got it done. We finished a couple
of hours later than usual, and we lost a bit of
money in all the drinks that we gave away for
free to our diners who were patiently waiting.
“You know, it’s just something you would
never expect to do. When I was setting it all
up in 2018, I certainly did not factor ‘removing
a protest’ into the day-to-day running of this
restaurant!
“Then again, hundreds of things have
happened that I didn’t expect”
ON MOOR HALL
“I’ve eaten at Moor Hall five times. I love it. I
would love that to be the next 3 Michelin star
in the UK. The first time I ate there was when
CHR Equipment took me there to see Marks
kitchen – CHR installed ours at Mana. We sat
down and Mark came over, he said ‘sit down
and have a couple of dishes’ - he ended up
giving us the full menu! And I really fell in love
with his food there and then.
“The way I see it now, is this. Noma is a
massively influential restaurant that has
done so much for the culinary landscape
across the world. You can’t deny what Noma
has done, the number of chefs that they’ve
inspired. A lot of restaurants were given, or
a lot of chefs were given, a platform to open
their own restaurants, because they’ve worked
at Noma.
“However, does Noma do the best food,
the most delicious food in the world? No, I
don’t think so. I don’t think it’s even the best
restaurant in Copenhagen for food anymore.
“How I felt with Moor Hall, was that it was
technically perfect, but it was also delicious
enough that you’d want to go back - hence
why I’ve been so many times. It’s amazing.
Mark’s been a huge inspiration for, not just the
food that we do, but the way that I look at food
in a sense of clarity of flavour.
“When we first opened, before I started really
discovering my own style and what I wanted to
cook, I couldn’t work out what was our identity,
what was the purpose of everything? Before I
developed any of that, you know, Mana was a
very shock value restaurant.
53
 “As every chef is, they’re heavily influenced
by places that they’ve worked in. They
don’t have any other reference and it was
very much like, ‘well, how weird can we
make it’. I quickly realised that’s not what I
wanted this restaurant to be. When I was
looking elsewhere for other inspiration,
there was Moor Hall, and Mark’s approach
to food. Chatting with and getting to know
Mark Birchall has been a great leveller, he
encouraged me to find my own style”
CHARITY BEGINS AT HOME,
RIGHT?
“It does gives me the ick a bit when people
mention how expensive we are. We are at £175
now, that’s what we must charge, but some
54 SIMON MARTIN MANA
people don’t see that. I was talking to my therapist
about this yesterday, it really doesn’t matter what
you do in life, somebody won’t like it.
“I was having a rant about us giving to the
homeless charity over Christmas. StreetSmart
came out and said, ‘Mana’s doing this’ - and the
comments were feral. They were like, ‘they’re
only doing it for PR!’. Super insulting.
“Homelessness is very much in our face,
because the homeless people of Manchester
will sleep over there (he indicates to the other
side of the street) outside the co-op. We’re not
blind to it, whatsoever. But here were people
cynically demanding to know how much we
were going to match the donations? We were
facilitating the donations, for fucks’ sake! Then
there were other people saying it was a stupid
charity, and that other charities need it more.
So, you know, the fact of the matter is, even
giving to charity people will have an issue with.
It doesn’t matter what you do, somebody’s
always going to have a problem with it”
ON MANCHESTER
“Obviously Manchester is very hot right
now. We had Chanel and, I’m not really into
fashion, I pretty much wear what my missus
tells me to when we go out, but I didn’t realise
the gravity of that event. It was a real big
deal. Sacha Lord is a fantastic, vocal supporter
and an active night time economies adviser. I
think his efforts promoting Manchester show.
“Then, a few days later, Michelin announce
their 2024 reveal will be at the Midland. In the
five years Mana has been here, the number of
openings, is remarkable. Say what you will about
Sexy Fish, but they’re a very well-known group
and they only have two other sites in the world
- Miami and London. For their third to be here,
it says a lot about this city. Gordon Ramsay has
opened a Lucky Cat here and now Tom Barnes is
due to open later this year.

“I’m sure everybody’s wondering to see why

Michelin have decided to be in Manchester and
no less to be at the Midland Hotel”

MANA – TERROIR
Though sitting in a city centre location with not
much outside space and no gardens (yet, the
outside staff dining area has ‘plans’) in which
to grow produce, Mana has still developed its
own ‘terroir’, its unique and personal way of
developing flavour and produce. On a closer
inspection of the dining room and kitchens, you
can see that edible flowers and shoots are being
grown indoors, yet cleverly used as part of the
restaurant design, with the LED lights offering
both perfect conditions for growing and creating
ambience in the room. There are fridges stacked
with fermented products, some in use, others
going through the process.

While the full kitchen may be sitting within the

dining room (there truly is just a tiny space out
back for the KPs) however, Simon has installed his
own fermentation room, carefully temperature
controlled and with ingenious individual
fermentation boxes he has created himself.

One example of a product unique to Mana is their

Koji. Koji is cooked rice that has been inoculated
with a fermentation culture, Aspergillus oryzae.
Known as koji-kin in Japan, this naturally
occurring culture is particularly prevalent in
Japanese cuisine. Over centuries, Japanese foods
have been developed using it. Koji is used to
make popular foods like soya sauce, miso, mirin
and sake.

“Making our own Koji – I think we tested over

ten different grains of rice before we found
the perfect one for us to use, and it’s a staple
ingredient in our cooking. This Koji – it’s only
from us, nobody else can make Koji that tastes
like that, because it is our way, the way we do it,
so unique to Mana. In the same way, we can’t
grow Koji, that tastes like somewhere else. Our
Koji is representative of our terroir”

55
 CONNECT. LISTEN. DISCOVER

It’s back!
Chef HQ by
Chef Publishing
back by popular
demand!

TICKET AT www.hrc.co.uk
Having brought the most exciting 3 days of chef demo’s, industry chats and
supplier showcases to HRC in 2023, Chef HQ by Chef Publishing is delighted
to be returning once again. And what a three days we have lined up for
you. Come long and meet some of the greatest chefs cooking in the UK
today, join in with some tutored tastings, get involved in the industry chats REGISTER FOR YOUR
and network during our afternoon socials. There are a lot of surprises in
store this year, with some meet and greets with some of industries biggest
legends. Register for your pass and we look forward to seeing you there!

25th-27th
March,
ExCel,
London

56
 Glynn Purnell Sam Dixon Lisa Goodwin-Allen

Tom Shepherd Simon Hulstone Pierre Koffmann

SOME
OF THE
CHEF’S
APPEARING
THIS YEAR
INCLUDE
Ioannis Grammenos Kerth Gumbs Adam Handling

CONNECT. LISTEN. DISCOVER

GaltonBlackiston Tom Brown Spirit of Hospitality

57
 Words Orla O’Hagan
Image Irina Solopa

58
Putting Pem
I T ’ S J A N U A RY 2 0 2 4 ,
AND THE YEAR
HAS KICKED OFF
WITH SOME BIG
ANNOUNCEMENTS
I N T H E H O S P I TA L I T Y

to Paper
S E C TO R . F O R S A L L Y
ABÉ’S WESTMINSTER
R E S TA U R A N T T H E
PEM, NEW YEAR
RESOLUTIONS
H AV E F O L L O W E D
THE CLASSIC ‘NEW
YEAR, NEW ME’
MODEL WITH THE
APPOINTMENT OF
A BRAND-NEW HEAD
CHEF: JENNIFER
COLLINS.

59
 As she takes on her first Head Chef role, I
caught up with Jennifer to find out more about
her journey through the kitchens of some of
London’s best restaurants, and what she’s
bringing to the tables of the Conrad London St.
James.

Jennifer is young, but she’s had a career many

older chefs would envy. Working with some
of the best chefs in a huge range of styles and
cuisines, Jennifer has a varied resume. Growing
up, food was always enjoyable, if not especially
central – but her dad had real passion in the
kitchen. “I wouldn’t say we were particularly
adventurous; we didn’t really go out to eat and
we never had takeaways, it was too expensive.
My Dad used to cook for us growing up. He
was passionate about it. He’d get home
from work and be in the kitchen basically all
afternoon. His rhubarb crumble was one of my
favourites, he grew the rhubarb in the garden
and for me, as a child, it was just so amazing
and delicious.”

Growing up in a small Surrey village,

experimentation and the fine-dining world
seemed far removed. “Luxury ingredients
were a whole new world to me when I started
cooking, and my Mum tried things like oysters
and caviar for the first time when I started
cooking for her.” So how did Jennifer end up
leading one of London’s premier restaurants,
working with Sally Abé in the beautiful setting
of The Pem? I ask her to take me through her
journey to the top.

CHEZ VOUS, SURREY

Tucked into the small high-street of
Warlingham, Surrey, Chez Vous brings a touch
of the unexpected to the quaint English village.
The restaurant, co-owned by chefs Martin
Bradley and Laurent Pacaud, fuses classic and
nouvelle French cookery to create a stylish
modern blend, centring British produce and
quality ingredients. Jennifer was just fifteen
when they opened, but she felt the buzz
immediately. “My first experience in a kitchen
was at Chez Vous. It was these two French
guys opening a restaurant and everyone was
talking about it, it was a big deal in our small
village to have a fancy, upmarket restaurant.”

Tasked with finding some work experience,

Jennifer saw an opportunity to learn, and
landed at the restaurant door. “I walked into
this building site and asked if I could do it there,
and they took me on for a couple of weeks.”

60 JENNIFER COLLINS THE PEM

 Image 7Fifty

61
 It was her induction to the industry – and she
caught the bug. “From that moment, I haven’t
stopped working in kitchens.”

“This was my first ever job in a kitchen. One

week in front of the house and one week in
back of house. I fell in love with cooking here!
The drama, the banter, the creativity. It was
wild and fun.” But more than the atmosphere,
the magic of food struck Jennifer. There’s a
reason French cuisine has influenced so much
of the market: there’s a spark of skill that has
been hundreds of years in the making. That
history lies in every step of the process, every
ingredient; it drew Jennifer in. “I’d have to say
the first dish I fell in love with was here. It was
the classic tarte tatin – I was 15 and of course
I’d had one before, but this was special! I’d seen
every fold of the pastry, every turn of the apple,
a little prayer before you turned out. That was
something very special to me, and I fell in love
instantly.” Her career was set. In those short
two weeks, she’s seen her future, and she was
going to realise it fully.

“Cooking is an escape for me. The beautiful

thing about cooking is that anyone from any
background can become an amazing chef.
It’s just hard work and passion. It was the first
thing I was good at, it made me happy making
others happy with something I’d created.
There’s really something about people taking
enjoyment from something you’ve put your
time and energy into and to get to do that for
a living is amazing. For me, it was my way to
earn a living but doing something that luckily,
I loved, and was able to support myself doing.

That’s the beauty of cooking, I think – anyone

can be successful at it if you put in the work,
you just need to be passionate and dedicated.”

THE HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL

On leaving school, Jennifer studied full-time
at Westminster Kingsway for a year “I soon
realised that, for me, working in a professional
kitchen was where I would learn the quickest.
Also, realistically, I needed to start earning
money! So, the next year I changed my course
to a RACA apprenticeship. It was a much
smaller group – there were only nine of us
in the class – and we were all sent to work
Image Tim Green

full-time in some of the best restaurants in

London. It was the foot in the door I needed.”
For her placement, Jennifer joined the team
at Regent Street staple The Hotel Café Royal.
“This was my first job in London. It was grand

62 JENNIFER COLLINS THE PEM


– the hotel and the kitchen were like nothing
I’d ever seen.” Compared to Warlingham, the
bustling scenes and extravagant guests of the
Café Royal seem a world away, but Jennifer
wasn’t dazed by the bright lights of the big
city; she took notes. “I worked under Armand
Sablon for the two years I was there, learning
everything from sandwiches to sole meunière
to cooking meat to cuisson. It really taught me
all the basics and more.” This was her first step
in London, the true epicentre of UK fine dining,
and Jennifer moved quickly to great heights.
CITY SOCIAL
Aged just 18, Jennifer joined the juggernauts,
heading to Jason Atherton’s City Social for her
first taste of Michelin-starred cooking. She
was still studying at college one day a week,
but she was ready to fight for her place in an
extremely competitive industry. “I wanted to
prove that just because I’m a woman doesn’t
mean I couldn’t be just as good, if not better
than the rest of the guys.”
It’s a prejudice many women in the industry still
face. Although the number of female chefs has
risen in recent years, with women making up
about a quarter of the workforce in the UK, by
March of last year, only 8% of the UK’s Michelin
restaurants were female-led (Chef’s Pencil). At
2% above the global average, the UK is doing
‘well’ (at least, in comparison to Ireland, who
had no female-led Michelin restaurants in the
same study), but is 8% good enough? What
prevents women from getting to the top in our
industry? Jennifer has some ideas.
Image Tim Green
“I’ve worked in many kitchens where I’ve been
the only woman for most of my career, and it
can be a very intimidating and at times toxic
working environment. I think a lot of women
in hospitality can feel alienated by this and
choose not to pursue a career in cooking
because of it. It’s not a new fact that this is
predominantly a male-led industry.”
Setting out to prove her mettle, Jennifer threw
herself into the pot at City Social, where she
found her feet amongst the team. “It was
hard and relentless, starting at 7.00am and
finishing at 1-2 in the morning, five days a
week, but once you were accepted by the team
as a strong cook, you were in, and it was an
all-consuming place to be.” She even found
a mentor and inspiration in her Head Chef. “I
63
 Image 7Fifty

64 JENNIFER COLLINS THE PEM


worked under Paul Walsh, and I admired him
greatly. He had worked under Gordon for years
at Royal Hospital Road. He was what I dreamed
of being, every time he tasted something I
made and said, ‘yes that’s perfect’, it would
make me so proud. I used to watch him
prepare the fish and dream of the day I could
do it as clean and as fast!”
LUCA
Following her stint at City Social, Jennifer joined
the team at Luca as Senior CDP. It hadn’t been
in her plan, but Robert Chambers turned her
head on a visit to Luca’s sister The Clove Club.
“My partner at the time was working at The
Clove Club, and Luca had only been open a
few months when we went to eat. I remember
saying to him, ‘I need to work here!’” With
French and British inspired cuisine under her
belt, she ventured to Italian. Jennifer was
mentored into leadership, setting her up for
a future at the top of the kitchen. “Rob is the
loveliest, most passionate chef I have ever had
the privilege to work with. He taught me how
to take responsibly and how to pass on my
knowledge to other team members.”
Image 7Fifty
KOL
“While working at Luca, my sous chef at the
time told me he was leaving to help open this
fine dining Mexican restaurant. I just thought,
‘fine dining Mexican, in London?’ This was
something very new and I jumped at the
chance to be part of it. Santiago was creating
quite a name for himself doing pop ups around
London, I’d heard of him because he was
part of the Noma Mexico project which was
very exciting! I was dying to be part of a new
opening, to learn how it worked and help build
it from the ground up.”
So, Jennifer joined the team. “I worked very
closely with Ben Morgan, who was the head
chef, and the most organised man you will ever
meet! He was a great leader, he taught me to
work smarter and more efficiently.”
I’ve seen Jennifer’s background on paper, but
as I write it out like this, something special is
highlighted. I’ve never met a chef with such
a varied experience of global cuisine. There
are plenty of chefs experimenting with new
flavours: the Selbys were known for their
65

Image
fusion of East-Asian and French cuisine at
Evelyn’s Table; Jeremy Chan has researched
and experimented with flavours from just
about every continent on the Ikoyi menu. But
real restaurant experience and training in more
than four key styles? It’s something I haven’t
seen. And I’m excited by it. As she takes on her
first Head Chef position, I’m intrigued to see
what Jennifer has to say now that she has her
own voice. What will her fusion be?
Thanks to the mentorship of those at Luca,
she feels more than ready to stand on her
own two feet. “It was a great team to be part
of and I made many of my closest friends
working there. Santi is just the loveliest and
most creative guy. He really helped build my
confidence as a leader and opened my eyes
to so many different techniques and flavours
that I’d never experienced before. I remember
we went on a trip to Croatia to do the Weekend
Food Festival, and having just arrived we went
straight to having an amazing meal in the hotel
66 JENNIFER COLLINS THE PEM
that we were going to cook the following day.
After dinner, we decided that it would be best
to get the sorbet made and set that night. So
straight after dinner we cracked on, only to find
there was no wood sorrel for the sorrel and
jalapeno sorbet! So, at 1.00am (in heels, in the
rain), we went out foraging.”
THE PEM
And now, Jennifer Collins stands proudly at
the pass of The Pem, Sally Abé’s Westminster
destination. As a woman working in hospitality,
there couldn’t be a more inviting space than
this Suffragette-inspired restaurant, and
Jennifer was attracted by its “feminist ethos”.
“The Pem is helping to create space for young
female chefs to learn and grow in a happy,
healthy environment, and that was definitely
something that drew me in. Sally has always
been a trailblazer in that sense, leading the
way for women in hospitality and I’m really
proud to be a part of that and to continue the
legacy that she is creating at The Pem. There’s
Image 7Fifty
no ego in the kitchen, everyone’s opinion is
valued and it’s just generally a much healthier
environment. Plus, the food is delicious!
“The Pem has built a reputation for
incredible dishes that are inspired by
nostalgic flavours and traditional British
dishes that aren’t commonly found on
restaurant menus anymore, and that will
stay the same, with some additions of my
own! My style of cooking really lends itself
to that – I like to update dishes and bring
them into the modern era, adding some
refinement to the cooking and plating of
them which ties in with Sally’s style of
cooking and her vision for the restaurant.
We’re both passionate about using the most
amazing British produce that we get from
fantastic suppliers to create delicious plates
of food that people will love.”
In Sally Abé, there’s a mentor who will support
Jennifer to flourish – both in her time at The
 Image 7Fifty

67
 Image 7Fifty
Pem and beyond. “Working with Sally has
been great! We met for the first time when I
came in for my interview, I was very nervous,
but she has a kind way about her, and she put
me at ease right away. Sally’s got a wealth of
knowledge and experience that she shares
with me and the team every day. Any question,
any problem, she’s always got a solution and a
support system if we need it.”

I return to my earlier thought – after so much

experience in such a variety of cuisines, how
does Jennifer see her own style? Can we
expect a Mexican flair to enter The Pem’s
traditional British menu? It sounds like the
influences will be more subtle. “I would
describe my style as fresh! It might be a little
surprising, considering that I was taught
classical French cooking where you use a
lot of butter and cream. It’s got a place in

68 JENNIFER COLLINS THE PEM

cooking, but I tend to stay away from it and
lean more towards fermenting, pickling, and
using vinegars in my cooking. I love tangy,
bold flavours that bring some freshness and
excitement to the palate.
“I’ve cooked other people’s food for my entire
career, and this is the first time that I’ll be able
to have more of an influence on the menu and
I think over time, my cooking style will evolve
with that, and I’ll find my “voice” in food. I’ll
also be cooking with predominantly British
ingredients and British food, which I love. The
first dish I’ve put on is crab on crumpet. It’s a
favourite dish of mine that I always wanted to
make my own version of. Here at The Pem, we
make it using amazing fresh crab, fermented
gooseberries, and Welsh seaweed. It’s rich but
also refreshing at the same time, and really
delicious. It uses the very best of British produce
to create a delicious, elegant dish, which is what
The Pem is all about.”
The Pem is in good hands with Jennifer, and
vice versa. With hopes to one day run her own
restaurant and a focus on British produce
traditional classics (perhaps a callback to her
dad’s Rhubarb crumble), Jennifer is taking The
Pem forward, but not away from its roots. She
represents a newer British cuisine – influenced
by a vibrant, multi-cultural and multi-ethnic
population – and she champions what our
modern island has to offer.
“People were always quite harsh about English
cooking, and I suppose we didn’t really have a
defined cuisine beyond things like fish and chips
and pie and mash, but that’s changing now, and
for the better. There’s been a rise in using British
ingredients which is a great thing, because the
Image Tim Green
quality of our produce is incredible. Some of the
best cheeses in the world are British, and now
we’ve got vineyards to produce our own wines.
More chefs, and people in general, are foraging
for their own ingredients from what we grow
here, and I think that’s changing the perception,
people are realising that we have amazing
produce on our own doorstep.”
And that feminist ethos? It’s certainly not
going anywhere. Jennifer knows what needs to
change in the industry. We need better hours
for chefs, improved working environments,
and we need women. “I want the industry to
be a place where women have a seat at the
table, not feeling like they’re always having to
prove themselves, and are just accepted as
equal, valuable members of the kitchen team.
There are some great initiatives, and Sally has
been leading the way in terms of advocating
for women in hospitality through things like
the International Women’s Day events she’s
hosted, but there’s still a long way to go in the
industry more generally.
“When I first started out, I think we were at
the tail end of the era of shouty chefs and
abusive kitchens being glorified on TV but now
we’re starting to realise that’s not the way to
be, and it’s not the way to manage people.
There’s more of an understanding that you
need to work with people to bring out the
best of them in kitchens, and create more of a
positive, nurturing environment. I think we’re
still in the early stages of that, but people are
starting to sit up and notice, making it more of
a priority in their venues. What’s the point in
having a horrible working environment where
everyone’s miserable every day? You’re not
going to get anything out of it.”
I have no doubt in Jennifer’s leadership. She has
goals, priorities and ethics that will stand her,
Sally, and the team in excellent stead. Jennifer
Collins is one to watch – and that means The
Pem is the place to be. “My hope for The Pem
is that we continue to create great food that’s
loved by our guests and provide an amazing
overall experience. I want guests to come here,
have a great time, and love what they eat. We’re
a destination in Westminster and we’ve got
some great regulars, so I’d love to see more of
that. Down the line, it would be wonderful to get
some more recognition for what we’re doing
here, maybe get Michelin to pay us a visit, too!”
The Pem - it’s certainly on my list for 2024.
69
 Camera Jodi Hinds and 7Fifty

A Starring Role
Scottish
Seafood at
the Bocuse
d’Or Gala
IN THE WORLD OF GASTRONOMY,
FEW PRODUCTS CAN MATCH THE
QUALITY AND FLAVOUR THAT
SCOTTISH SEAFOOD BRINGS
TO THE TABLE.
The sold-out gala, hosted by Raffles London at The OWO, witnessed
a culinary collaboration of epic proportions. Scottish seafood was
showcased in four of the eight-courses, each dish a testament to the
Similarly, in the illustrious realm of culinary excellence, the unrivalled quality on offer:
Bocuse d’Or global competition is unrivalled.
● Cured trout aged in beeswax, timut pepper, pickled
And this year the Bocuse d’Or UK team has achieved a world first potmarron, dashi jelly, and Seaweed tartlette, loch-oyster
- hosting a prestigious gala dinner in London featuring all eight and coco bean sphere with caviar Canapés by Marco Zampese
of the UK’s three-starred Michelin chefs. of Hélène Darroze at The Connaught
● Shetland mussel bavaroise scented with turmeric by Daniel
On 22 January in London, all eight chefs came together to craft Stucki of The Lecture Room & Library at Sketch
a dining masterpiece, expertly blending artistry and culinary ● Hand-dived scallop, citrus beurre blanc and Petrossian caviar
skills to benefit Team UK and their charity partner, The Cancer by Jean-Philippe Blondet, Chef Patron of Alain Ducasse at the
Awareness Trust. And Scottish seafood had a starring role. Dorchester
● Aberdeenshire Megrim sole filled with truffle flavoured
mousse baked in puff pastry and a west-coast langoustine by
Alain Roux of The Waterside Inn

70
71
72
 Daniel Stucki, from The Lecture Room & Library at Sketch, paid homage to
the resilient mussel harvesters in Shetland with his dish. He emphasised the
importance of understanding and respecting the journey of the ingredients,
acknowledging the unsung heroes braving the elements to provide the key
elements of his exquisite dish.

Jean-Philippe Blondet, Chef Patron of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester,

artfully blended French culinary influences with British ingredients in his
creation. His choice of Scottish scallops, known for their sweet and delicate
flavour, added a touch of elegance to this masterpiece.

Alain Roux, from The Waterside Inn, presented an intricately crafted dish
that encapsulated the essence of Scottish produce. As he aptly puts it,
“It’s a complex dish, but every element sings on the plate with a perfect
harmony of texture and delicate, delicious flavours. You can’t get better
than Scottish produce.”

Adam Wing, Head of Trade Marketing at Seafood Scotland, recognised the

significance of being a culinary partner at such a landmark event. He said:
“Partnering with the Bocuse d’Or gala gave us the opportunity to highlight
the excellent range and quality of seafood from Scotland. It’s not just about
presenting world-class dishes; it’s about using this stage to promote the finest
Scottish produce, supporting the chefs, and contributing to a cause that aligns
with our commitment to quality.”

He added: “Scottish seafood was selected by the Bocuse d’Or organising

committee as the central platter theme for the grad final in Lyon last year
where teams from around the world cooked with Scottish monkfish, mussels
and scallops. As a proud supporter and committee member of Team UK, I am
delighted Seafood Scotland has been given the opportunity to showcase a wider
range of what Scotland has to offer on this occasion.”

Beyond the culinary spectacle of the ‘16-hand’ approach, the gala was not just
about satisfying discerning palates; it had a noble cause. The event, in partnership
with The Cancer Awareness Trust, aims to change lives through nutrition, with
funds supporting young chefs representing the UK at Bocuse d’Or and providing
nutrition education for those living with cancer.

As the curtain falls on an extraordinary Bocuse d’Or gala, the spotlight illuminates
not only the culinary talent of the chefs but also the unrivalled quality of Scottish
seafood. With each dish, a narrative unfolds—the tale of a nation’s cold, clear
waters, sustainable fishing practices, and a culinary treasure trove that finds its
moment to shine on the global stage.

Next month, Team UK will compete in the European heat of the competition which
takes place in Trondheim, Norway as they look to secure their place in the 2025
grand final which will once again return to Lyon.

73
 Alain Roux, The Waterside Inn
MEGRIM SOLE FILLED WITH TRUFFLE FLAVOURED MOUSSE BAKED IN PUFF PASTRY

This is food from the heart, one of our most popular seasonal dishes at The
Waterside Inn, inspired by a classic recipe. It’s also one of my favourites.
It’s a complex dish but every element sings on the plate with a perfect
harmony of texture and delicate, delicious flavours.

“As a chef, my approach is simple. I respect the quality of my ingredients

above anything, and you can’t get better than Scottish produce. It is a
wild and natural larder like no other. This dish celebrates some of its finest
offerings, in particular the fresh seafood combined with the subtle, woody
flavour of the truffle to complete a stunning dish.

74 SEAFOOD FROM SCOTLAND

Daniel Stucki, The Lecture Room & Library at Sketch
SHETLAND MUSSEL BAVAROISE SCENTED WITH TURMERIC

As everything when it comes to great cooking, it’s how much

understanding and respect there is into the journey of the ingredients.
The main credits belong to the mussel harvester who is, in the shadow
of our successful dishes, braving the elements and putting all efforts
into the most important part of that process. Then the reliability of our
suppliers is crucial.

On my side, it’s being able to capture the essence of those stunning

quality Shetland mussels and to sublime them with a panel of textures,
great combination of ingredients and, in order to create emotions, the
love I have for my profession."
75
76 SEAFOOD FROM SCOTLAND
 Jean-Philippe Blondet, Chef
Patron of Alain Ducasse at
the Dorchester
HAND-DIVED SCALLOP,
CITRUS BEURRE BLANC
AND CAVIAR

At Alain Ducasse at The

Dorchester, we combine
French culinary influences and
British ingredients. One of my
favourite dishes on the menu
is the mouth-watering Scottish
scallop, which is coated with
a silky citrus beurre blanc and
topped with a generous Kristal
caviar. We choose to source our
scallops from Scotland, as they
are the best in the UK, sweet and
delicate flavour, combined with a
meaty texture.

Our menu changes very often

because we follow the seasons and
search for the ingredients you can
find in the markets. The reflection
in the seasons ensures we have
the best quality ingredients served
throughout the year.’

77
 Photo Credit Simon Hulstone - @elephanttqy
Tom Shepherd - @rest_upstairs
Beher - Beher

Wellocks
Customer’s
Eat Out
IN DECEMBER 2023, WELLOCKS
LAUNCHED A NEW SERIES OF
E X C L U S I V E C U S TO M E R L U N C H E S
TO B E H E L D AT C U S TO M E R
E S TA B L I S H M E N T S A C R O S S T H E
C O U N T RY T H R O U G H O U T 2 0 2 4 .

78
Leigh Myers, Chef Director at Wellocks shared
his anticipation for the series, commenting
“This is an extremely exciting opportunity
for Wellocks to bring our customers together
across the country and continue to build
on our relationships. Unfortunately, we
all know too well the ongoing challenges
the hospitality industry faces. To be able
to support and give back to our customers
is more important than ever. We are also
delighted to be working with several of our
valued partners to host these events”.
Monday 29th January
Michael Wignall’s 1 Michelin star The Angel at
Hetton, Skipton

Special guest: Beher

The first in this series of lunches was held at

Michael Wignall’s 1 Michelin star The Angel at
Hetton on Monday 29th January, welcoming
customers from the north-west and special
guests Beher who showcased their range of
award-winning Iberico hams – now available
to order with Wellocks.

79
 Beher specialising in rearing free-range, black
Iberian pigs and perfecting the curing process
of their Iberico hams. They pride themselves
on the care if their 100% pure-bred Iberico
pigs, descended from wild boar, who forage
free-range on the oak groves – known as
dehesas – of Extremadura in south-west
Spain. Feeding on acorns and pasture, it is
this combination of diet, ancestry and their
semi-wild existence that gives the meat its
characteristic nutty flavour and melt-in-the-
mouth texture.

80 WELLOCKS
UPCOMING DATES
South-West
Monday 4th March
Simon Hulstone’s
1 Michelin star The Elephant Restaurant in
Torquay

Midlands
Wednesday 22nd May
at Tom Shepherd’s
1 Michelin star Upstairs by Tom Shepherd

Scotland, London and South-East to be

announced later this year.

As places are limited at each event, Wellocks

will be announcing competitions throughout
the year on their Instagram @wellocksfood
for customers to win a place to attend – keep
your eyes peeled to enter!

81
 Words Claire Bosi
Camera
Profile Patricia Wakaimba
Images courtesy of Hjem and
Waterhouse Project

The Water
House Project
Hjem

N O R T H U M B E R L A N D ’ S M I C H E L I N S TA R R E D H J E M A N D T H E WAT E R H O U S E
P R O J E C T I N B E T H N A L G R E E N H AV E A N N O U N C E D A F O U R - H A N D S D I N N E R I N
L O N D O N O N F E B R U A RY 1 5 T H A N D 1 6 T H .
82
83
 Chef Gabriel Waterhouse of acclaimed
London restaurant The Water House
Project and chef Alex Nietosvuori of
Northumberland’s Michelin starred
restaurant Hjem will come together for an
exclusive two-night collaboration, described
by Gabriel as a ‘one-of-a-kind, Northumbrian
- Scandinavian, via East London hybrid
menu.’ The 10-course menu will centre
around the quintessential elements of Nordic
cuisine in a relaxed fine dining atmosphere,
showcasing the shared elements of Northern
British and Scandinavian culinary traditions.
Chef Gabriel’s Northumberland heritage
plays a big role in The Water House Project’s
philosophy which is rooted in the rolling
84
moors, grasslands and coastlines of the
area that is also home to Hjem, where Alex
Nietosvuori traces the land’s Nordic past.
Bringing together Alex’s Scandinavian
techniques and Gabriel’s acute understanding
of flavour, the dinner will showcase a natural
affinity between the two chefs and their
common appreciation for Northern cuisine
and ingredients. Revolving around signature
ingredients from both chefs’ winter menus,
dishes on the night will include:
Chestnut, Red Currant, Rye
Fried Potatoes, Red Onion, Black Pepper,
Aged Beef and smoked Pike Roe
Cornish Bream, Winter Tomato and
Horseradish
Northumbrian dry-aged Deer, fermented
Root Vegetables, bitter Leaves and Oxtail
sauce
The tasting menu will include an option of
either paired wines handpicked by Gabriel
and Alex, or a selection of The Water
House Project’s signature homemade soft
pairings, made from seasonal ingredients
and ferments.
Located in a former warehouse, The
Water House Project evokes a Nordic spirit
with stripped back furnishings and warm
decorative accents of dried flowers which
have been foraged in Northumberland, and
floating linen curtains. Long feasting tables
85
 reference Scandinavian dining culture
and foster a convivial, dinner party-like
atmosphere, inviting the guests to look
onto the open kitchen.

Hjem is the Michelin-starred restaurant

led by Chef Alex Nietosvuori in Wall,
Northumberland. Renowned for its
Nordic-inspired cuisine, Hjem offers
a unique dining experience that
showcases the best of Northumberland’s
produce. Alex honed his skills under
renowned chefs like Björn Frantzén,
Sam Nutter and Victor Wågam and
gained international experience in South
America and Oslo. In London, he went
on to work with The Laughing Heart’s
kitchen team under chef Tom Anglesea
before realising his dream aged 26
with the launch of Hjem in partnership
with his wife Ally Thompson. Hjem was
awarded a Michelin star in 2021.

86
The Water House Project has made its
name by challenging the perceptions
of fine dining, with an experience akin
to a dinner party rather than a typical
restaurant dining room. They specialise
in delivering dishes and drinks that
spark conversation amongst strangers,
including between diners and chefs.
Gabriel’s nine-course tasting menu -
which changes in entirety each season
- depicts an elegant cooking style using
earthy flavours, whilst also incorporating
subtle nods to the Nordics. As the menu
changes with the new season, so do
the paired wines; the opportunity for
Gabriel and his team to showcase an
array of low-intervention bottles, sourced
predominantly from across Europe. Pre-
batched house-made cocktails and non-
alcoholic beverages are also available,
seasonally in tune and often incorporating
ingredients from the kitchen.
GABRIEL ON
NORTHUMBERLAND
“We forage throughout the year, both
the edible and the decorative- displaying
these remnants of a season as works of
art, welcoming the opportunity to bring the
outdoors in as a gentle nod to our wilder
roots. Collaborating with Alex feels natural.
Our shared desire to reconnect with the
land, food systems and local community is
apparent from our choice of ingredients, to
how we plate and fill our space”
“I was born and grew up in rural
Northumberland, just a couple of miles
away from Hjem. We were surrounded
by wild forests and streams, farmers and
their livestock, and the proximity to nature
influenced and continues to inspire my ethos
and practices. Meat is used both minimally
and mindfully, putting to good use every part
of an animal or ingredient”
87
 Camera Jodi Hinds

Bocuse d’Or UK
Fundraising
Gala

2024
88
 AS PRESIDENT FOR THE BOCUSE D’OR UK TEAM,
I T WA S I N E V I TA B L E T H AT C H E F C L A R E S M Y T H
W O U L D P U L L S O M E T H I N G E X T R A O R D I N A RY
O U T O F T H E B A G TO B R I N G AT T E N T I O N TO
O U R U K T E A M , W H I L E R A I S I N G V I TA L F U N D S TO
H E L P T H E M O N T H E I R WAY TO T H E E U R O P E A N
S E L E C T I O N I N T R O N D H E I M , T H E N F U R T H E R O N TO
THE GRAND FINAL IN LYON 2025.

89
 On 22nd January, all three Michelin
starred kitchens came together as one at
OWO at Raffles, to put on an incredible
gastronomic event for 200 diners. Funds
raised at the event went to support the
charity Cancer Platform and the Bocuse
d’Or UK team.

Speaking on behalf of one of the key

Bocuse d’Or UK culinary partners,
TRUEfoods, Jack Mitchell said “It’s an
honour and privilege to support these
fine young professionals as they strive
towards the global stage, representing
our country. Last night’s Gala was truly a
special occasion”

Bocuse d’Or UK commented “Thank

you to all the wonderful chefs, it was an
honour to bring together all 8 of Britain’s
3 Michelin starred restaurants for the
first time. We were so grateful to have
such incredible sponsors supporting the
evening and helping us on our journey to
Trondheim and beyond. We couldn’t do
this without you”

90 BOCUSE D’OR UK
91
 Clare Smyth
– Core
“Thank you to everyone involved
in making the Bocuse d’Or x
Cancer Platform fundraising gala
such a huge success. All three-star
restaurants coming together for
such a great cause was something
so special and definitely made for
an unforgettable evening! Thank
you to all guests, sponsors and to
OWO at Raffles for the beautiful
venue”
DISH – CORE APPLE
Matt Abe
– co Chef Patron
Restaurant Gordon
Ramsay
“An amazing night cooking
together with all the 3 Michelin
chefs in support of Bocuse d’Or
UK. Thanks Clare Smyth, for
bringing us all together. Great
to see all the teams help each
other to deliver a once in a
lifetime culinary experience for
all the guests. An honour to cook
alongside all those chefs”
DISH - ‘GRASS FED 60 DAY
DRY AGED BEEF, JERUSALEM
ARTICHOKE, CROSNES, BLACK
GARLIC’
92 BOCUSE D’OR UK
Simon Rogan
- L’Enclume
“A mad but brilliant Monday
evening that brought together
all of Britain’s three-starred
restaurants. It’s a real honour for
L’Enclume to stand alongside
these restaurants, and me and my
team with these chefs. Great fun,
great food and a cause close to
my heart”
DISH – ‘ANVIL’ CARAMEL
MOUSSE, MISO, CONCORDE
PEAR AND DOUGLAS FIR
Edward Cooke
– The Fat Duck
“What an experience! All Britain’s
3-star chefs cooking side by side for
a great cause. Friendships fostered
and lasting memories made”
DISH - ‘LIKE A KID IN A SWEET
SHOP’
Jean-Philippe
Blondet
– Alain
Ducasse at the
Dorchester
“Such and incredible and unique
dinner hosted at Raffles. The
whole team were very happy to
be there and support such a great
cause. Thank you to all the other
chefs, it was a pleasure sharing
this moment with you. We all
share the same passion for our
industry, great times”
DISH – HAND DIVED SCALLOP,
CITRUS BEURRE BLANC, CAVIAR
Marco Zampese
- Helene Darroze at the
Connaught
“What a day! So nice to spend time
with friends and colleagues from
all the three-star restaurants in
the UK in the newly opened OWO
at Raffles. An honour to share the
kitchen with these chefs”
DISHES – ‘SMOKED DUCK
DOUGHNUT, CELERIAC,
PERIGORD BLACK TRUFFLE’
AND ‘SEAWEED TARTELETTE,
SCOTTISH OYSTER, COCO
BEAN SPHERE & PETROSSIAN
CAVIAR’
Alain Roux
– The Waterside Inn
“It was an unforgettable evening
and a huge success, grateful to
be able to support fundraising for
Cancer Platform and Bocuse d’Or
UK”
DISH – MEGRIM SOLE FILLED
WITH TRUFFLE FLAVOURED
MOUSSE, BAKED IN PUFF
PASTRY, VIN JAUNE AND
LANGOUSTINE SAUCE
Daniel Stucki
– The Lecture Room &
Library at Sketch
Serving the opening course of the
evening, Daniel presented
DISH - ‘SHETLAND MUSSEL
BAVAROISE SCENTED WITH
TURMERIC, LEMON GEL WITH
FRESH CORIANDER AND
BUCKWHEAT GRAINS”
 Event Sponsors:
The OWO, Raffles, London

Culinary Partners:
TRUEfoods
Seafood from Scotland
Aubrey Allen Butchers

Gala 2024 Sponsors:

Classic Fine Foods
Smith and Brock
Hundred Hills Wine
Petrossian Caviar
Woods FS
Albion Fine Foods
Smart Hospitality
Urbani Truffles
Empressale UK
BloomingHaus
All Safe and Sound
Berkmann Wines
Artisan Coffee Co
Ice Studio Official
Ampersand dairy

93
 Michelin Time
again!
I T I S T H AT T I M E O F Y E A R A G A I N … T H E ‘ M W O R D ’ E C H O E S
T H R O U G H O U T R E S TA U R A N T S A L L O V E R T H E U K , T H E ‘ H E W H O M U S T
N O T B E N A M E D ’ TO T H E R E S TA U R A N T W O R L D , A S TO N O T J I N X T H E
R E S U L T S . I T B R I N G S T H AT N A U S E O U S F E E L I N G I N Y O U R S TO M A C H :
D E S P E R AT E A N T I C I P AT I O N M I X E D W I T H E X C I T E M E N T A N D
P R E - J U D G M E N T . . . T H AT ’ S R I G H T , Y O U K N O W W H AT T H I S M E A N S
- IT’S MICHELIN TIME AGAIN!

As we eagerly anticipate this year’s gains,
retains and losses (hopefully not any!) I
took some time to reflect on what Michelin
means: not just to me, but to our industry as
a whole.
It was always my dream to not only work in
Michelin starred restaurants, but to feel like I
was part of a team that earned it. My dream
came true 3 years ago with Frog achieving its
first star: a day that I will never forget, and that
we had spent years longing for. But after a
day of celebrating and far too many glasses of
bubbles down, I woke up feeling more inspired
than ever to reset our goals and ask, what is
next? For Frog, now we want two, plus a star
in Ugly Butterfly, and a green star in all of our
restaurants. It has always been important for
us to set clear goals, but it does make me feel,
is it ever enough? Hopefully for my sake, no!
The greatest thing that Michelin as a guide
does for us, and our group, is to make us push
ourselves harder than we thought possible, to
stretch our limits and redefine our boundaries.
No, the accolade is not the be-all and end-all
to make a successful restaurant, but there
is a romance around it, something that I
cannot describe, but that fills me with joy and
excitement. Most importantly for the team, it
provides gratification of how insanely hard we
all work to deliver unforgettable experiences,
happy memories and special moments for
people.
I can remember the day that we found out
about the Frog receiving its first star as
if it was yesterday. I was working in Ugly
Butterfly in Cornwall, and had a call from
Adam, a FaceTime, which was unusual at
this time of the day, so I knew something
important had happened. He was clearly
elated and only said three words… “WE
DID IT!” I spent the next hour crying with
happiness and drinking a bottle of Comtes
2006 to myself - I can still taste it now. I
would say to this day that it was the happiest
moment of my career. Not just for me and
my personal career goals, but for Adam, who
has steered the ship for us, unwavering and
authentic in our pursuit of success, and of
course the team of over 100 people who all
work so hard, for years without achieving it,
but constantly pushing for better. Knowing
how they would all feel with this news is
what made me emotional. I felt so much
pride and couldn’t wait to get back there
to celebrate with them all. The sense of
camaraderie that can be felt in this industry
is what makes it so special: a team effort in
every way. Without one person in the team,
regardless of position, the ship goes down.
That is why it is an award for everyone,
something we can all take pride in.
Having gone years missing out on the award
and beating myself up about it, I have a

94
suggestion for those pushing hard out there
that don’t quite get it this year. Keep going,
stretch your limits and be authentic. The most
important thing in the world is that you are
doing what you believe in and what makes you
and your team happy and proud. The rest is
out of your control, but you will be better for it,
having something to strive towards, but also
making your business the best it can be. I spent
far too long feeling negatively about not having
a star, and that mindset can be harmful to not
just you but the people around you too. Yes, it’s
okay to set yourself goals and be disappointed
when some of these are not met, but if each
year you are doing what you feel is right for you,
not anyone else, then that’s what matters.

At this time of the year, everybody turns into

a Michelin inspector, giving their opinions
of who will gain a star, who might lose one
and trying to guess the outcome. This kind
of chat has always stressed me out so much!
Mainly because I hope we are in the running,
but it can create major anxiety for so many
people. Let’s all just be happy for each other
regardless of our opinions on the restaurants.
Whoever is even close to these awards are
clearly hard working and passionate people.
Let’s bring each other up rather than pull each
other down. Now is the time. New year, new
awards, new stars: let’s be the community we
are capable of being and lift our neighbours!

In saying that, there are a couple of restaurants

that I have eaten at over the last year that I feel
have gone above and beyond their current
ranking, and I do wish them the best in pushing
forward in this guide. One must be a fellow
Cornish proud man and incredible team, someone
who has been an inspiration to so many for years
and really promotes a healthy workplace and
authentic cooking. That would be Paul Ainsworth
and the No6 team. Good luck to you all.

And the other, which has been possibly the

greatest cooking I have ever witnessed, would
be the pure magic that is Chapter One in
Dublin with the pioneer that is chef Mickael
Viljanen. It was a journey of brilliance and
flavour, with precision cooking and flare. I don’t
know what else I could ask for in a restaurant,
so if you haven’t been before, do yourself a

George Hersey
favour and book as soon as possible!

Good luck to all the incredible teams in the

UK for what is set to be an exciting Michelin
reveal. Sending all the positivity and respect.

95
 Camera Scott Rhodes

Looking
as good as
they cook
Lafont partners with
Northcote’s Obsession24

96
WHEN MICHELIN STARRED CHEF LISA
GOODWIN ALLEN OF NORTHCOTE MANOR
JOINED THE ICONIC CHEF CLOTHING
BRAND LAFONT AS BRAND AMBASSADOR
LAST YEAR, A GREAT RELATIONSHIP
WAS BORN, WHICH QUICKLY EXTENDED
TO CRAIG BANCROFT AND THE WIDER
NORTHCOTE FAMILY.

As the relationship flourished, conversations around Northcote

Manor’s annual festival of gastronomy, Obsession, intrigued Lafont
and synergies between the two were clearly obvious. As global
partner for the Michelin Guide, Lafont are well versed in dressing
the world’s best chefs, and as Northcote’s Obsession attracts these
chefs into their kitchens for a one-night residency, it made complete
sense for Lafont to partner with Obsession and provide a wardrobe of
individually crafted jackets for their visiting chefs. We caught up with
Neil Boston, Group International Commercial Director at the Cepovett
Group to find out more about this exciting collaboration.

“Obsession is one of the most talked about events in the culinary

calendar with some of the best chefs displaying their culinary skills.
What better way to showcase our chef jackets than in the kitchen
during this incredibly high-profile event, than have our clothing being
worn by their line-up of chefs. Add to that, all the amazing monetary
support that Obsession raise for Hospitality Action during the festival
- and we couldn’t not support the event.

97
98
“There are several sides to Obsession – firstly, the chance to
showcase and celebrate our fantastic culinary industry and the
amazing people that work in it (we have three of our Lafont brand
ambassadors on the lineup this year with Lisa, Gareth Ward and
Lorna McNee!). Secondly, the festival offers the public an opportunity
to be part of something special, a celebration of gastronomy and
the chance to visit Northcote, experience these culinary geniuses at
work and meet with them afterwards. Finally, and importantly, there’s
the money raised for an incredibly relevant charity which supports
the people who work in this, at times, very challenging industry.
Hospitality Action are the industry charity. They are fully transparent
and genuinely give back to those in need. As designers and suppliers
of chefs clothing, LaFont feel part of this sector – being able to
support Hospitality Action is important”

“Lafont is the global leading chef jacket brand, and since 2021 has
been the exclusive global chef jacket partner for Michelin. Lafont
remains the most aspirational brand for chefs to be wearing in their
kitchens. We are delighted that Northcote’s Obsession can stand
proud to be partnered with the number 1 in the industry in our product
category. For the guest chefs, they are offered the chance to choose
which Lafont design they would like to wear in service for their night
at Obsession. They have the chance to try new styles they perhaps
haven’t worn before or opt for an already favourite jacket. Whichever
Lafont they decide upon, the Obsession line-up will be wearing the
best in the industry so they will feel comfortable and special. From
the moment they start prepping, to when the final dish leaves the
pass, and they head into the dining room to chat with guests”

99
 Camera Dorchester Collection

100
Coworth Classics
in

The Barn
101
 O N 8 F E B R U A RY , C O W O R T H P A R K , D O R C H E S T E R C O L L E C T I O N ’ S L U X U RY
C O U N T RY H O U S E H O T E L N E A R A S C O T , W I L L R E L A U N C H I T S R E L A X E D
N E I G H B O U R H O O D R E S TA U R A N T , T H E B A R N , W I T H A B R A N D - N E W K I T C H E N
AND PRODUCE-LED, INGREDIENT-FOCUSED MENU.

Housed in the original barn frame, the new open kitchen and grill
will take pride of place in The Barn. Guided by seasonal ingredients
from the UK’s best producers, the menu will feature Executive Chef
Adam Smith’s take on British classics, and will encourage a convivial,
relaxed style of dining.

Fresh and preserved ingredients from the Coworth Park estate will
feature on the menu, as seen in the elderflower vinegar and cordial
used as a dressing for the Scallop crudo starter. Adam Smith also
works closely with leading British producers, such as Beal’s Farm
Charcuterie for English mangalitsa coppa, and small-scale suppliers
for English wagyu and wild venison. Main courses on the new menu
include classics such as Smithy’s chicken pie, alongside simple

102
103
104
meat, fish and vegetable focused dishes, including Hereford côte de
boeuf (to share); Spatchcock quail with rosemary and lemon; and a
selection of day boat fish from Cornwall that can all be served either
grilled or beer battered.
From Garden herb chimichurri and Tarragon Hollandaise to 50/50
mash and BBQ broccoli, the tempting array of sauces and sides will
see guests ordering generously for the table, for a relaxed, sharing
style of dining. Chef Adam’s playful approach and a touch of nostalgia
can be seen through the dessert menu, which includes The Barn
Trifle; Baked cheesecake with Yorkshire rhubarb; and Soft serve ice
cream with flake and sprinkles.
On Sundays, guests will be able to enjoy perfectly executed
traditional roasts, with starters such as Prawn cocktail followed by
Waterford roast sirloin of beef or Whole roast Devon White chicken
(to share), served with all the trimmings. Decadent British classics
rule the Sunday dessert menu, with options including Sticky toffee
pudding and Apple & cinnamon crumble with custard and ice cream.
The Barn welcomes groups of all sizes and generations to experience
its relaxed, rustic charm. Feasting menus, for groups of 10 or more,
feature many of The Barn’s signature dishes and are served family
style down the table for everyone to share. There is also a children’s
menu, to include young guests in The Barn’s ingredient-led relaxed
approach to dining.
For locals, hotel guests and diners from further afield, The Barn is a
perfect restaurant for all occasions and seasons. In winter it is the
height of cosiness with the roaring fire, in summer the floor-to-
ceiling windows flood the space with natural light, and guests can
also choose to sit on the large outdoor terrace.
105
 Camera Jodi Hinds

WITH A SWEET

The UK Pastry
V I C TO RY F O R T H E
UNITED KINGDOM,
T H E U K P A S T RY T E A M

Team Triumphs
WERE RECENTLY
AWA R D E D B R O N Z E
ON THE PODIUM
AT T H E E U R O P E A N

at European Pastry Cup, P A S T RY C U P , M A R K I N G

A SIGNIFICANT
M I L E S TO N E I N T H E I R
Sets Sights on Coupe du J O U R N E Y TO B E C O M E
THE NEXT WINNING

Monde de la Pâtisserie! T E A M AT T H E C O U P E
DU MONDE DE LA
P AT I S S E R I E .

106
The trio of talented pastry chefs Wallace
Li, Remy Pugeot, and Mickael Kwan, have
now secured the UK entry and the honour,
of representing the UK at the prestigious
Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie, a global
competition taking place in January 2025
during the Sirha, in Lyon.

107
 European Pastry Cup Success
The European Pastry Cup is a highly esteemed competition that brings
together top pastry talents from across the continent. It serves as a
platform for pastry chefs to showcase their skills and creativity. During
this competition, they had to create several creations such as chocolate
and sugar sculptures, frozen entremets and plated desserts around their
chosen theme: BENEATH THE SEA.

108
109
 Restaurant dessert - Soufflé ‘
Name – Anemone
The donut-shaped souffle was made with Valrhona 75% dark chocolate ‘Tulakalum’.
The centre filled with milk ice cream encased in a crumble cylinder. The incredible
chocolate decoration design was inspired by Grecian windflowers – a species
of anemone commonly found in Europe. A light and fluffy hot chocolate souffle
complimented with milk ice cream and chocolate crumble.

110
Paris Brest - Njõrd
A classic pastry with a modern twist on
flavour pairing – a flavour balance between
popcorn, banana and caramel Njǫrd, the
god of the wind and sea who represents
the good and helpful side of the elements.
The typical round shape and praline
element in this creation, like a classic Paris
Brest remained. The choux were filled
with Popcorn Dulcey Chantilly Cream, a
thin layer of Popcorn praline and Vanilla
Caramel. A layer of banana compote with
lime was added to bring in freshness and
acidity. Popcorn and caramel – a flavour
combination that can teleport you back to
your childhood food memories.

111
 Frozen fruit dessert -
Salacia
Salacia was worshipped as the goddess of
salt water who presided over the depths of
the ocean. The shape of the cake reflects a
water turbine, to represent renewable ocean
energy. This frozen dessert showcasing
the perfect flavour and texture balanced
with different tropical fruits – passion fruit,
pineapple, mango and banana. Freshness,
balance of sweetness and acidity. This frozen
dessert can bring your palate to southeast Asia
in one bite.

112
 Congratulations to The UK Pastry Team’s
on their achievement of clinching the
3rd position. It is a testament to their
dedication, craftsmanship, and ability to
stand out in a field of fierce competition.

Meet the Maestros.

Remy Pugeot (Sugar Candidate)
Wallace LI (Chocolate Candidate)
Michael Kwan (Team UK President)

About the Coupe du Monde

de la Pâtisserie

The Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie, is

also known as the Pastry World Cup. It is the
pinnacle of pastry competitions, attracting top
talent from around the globe. Held every two
years in Lyon, France, this event challenges
teams to showcase their skills in several
categories: pastries, chocolate, sugar, and ice
carving. The UK Pastry Team’s qualification for
this prestigious competition is a testament to
their outstanding performance at the European
Pastry Cup.
The UK Pastry Team’s achievement at the
European Pastry Cup and their upcoming
participation in the Coupe du Monde de la
Pâtisserie symbolise a triumph for British
pastry craftsmanship. Wallace Li, Remy
Pugeot, and Michael Kwan’s dedication to
their craft has not only elevated their own
careers but has also brought recognition to our
flourishing UK pastry scene.

If you want to support the team,

please contact contact@
ukclubcoupedumonde.co.uk to receive
our sponsor pack and help the UK team to
climb at the top of the podium on the next
Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie!

Sponsors: Valrhona / Capfruit /

Classic Fine Foods UK / The Taste
Lab / St Michel Biscuits profesionnal /
Isigny Sainte-Mère / Zealous Molds /
Ritter Courivaud / Chef & Restaurant
Magazine

Follow us on instagram & linkedIn

@pastryteamuk
Visit our website:
www.ukpastryteam.com

113
 Cook chill systems
Looking at the

big picture
COOK-CHILL IS ONE OF COMMERCIAL CATERING’S
SECRET WEAPONS. PREPARING BATCHES OF FOOD,
THEN REFRIGERATING THEM UNTIL THEY’RE NEEDED
HELPS TO OPTIMISE THE USE OF KITCHENS NOT JUST
IN LARGE SCALE CATERING OPERATIONS BUT ALSO
IN SMALLER LOCATIONS THAT MIGHT PREVIOUSLY
HAVE JUST PREPARED EACH MEAL ON DEMAND.

It’s a process that relies on many different

types of equipment, and one that demands
consistency and accuracy in order to
guarantee safe results.

The first half of the system is appliances

capable of cooking large batches of product
at the same time. The other half is a blast
chiller or freezer that can take that batch of
food and rapidly chill it down to the required
temperature. This is key to the success of
the process, as the food needs to be chilled
rapidly enough so it does not spend too
much time within the temperature range
that allows bacteria to multiply, while also
maintaining the quality of the food. Once it
has been chilled or frozen the batch can be
stored for up to five days, until required. Then
it can simply be reheated or regenerated and
served.

114
115
 Combi ovens are a popular choice for the cooking side of cook-chill,
as they are able to cook large batches of food to the same consistency
and can also perform double duty reheating the food when it’s
needed. This is achieved through carefully managing the internal
temperature and humidity via computer controlled systems, which is
similar to how blast chillers work. Standard freezers are unsuitable
for cook chill as the slower chilling effect not only gives more time for
bacteria to grow, but allows large ice crystals to form, which can affect
the flavour and texture of food. Just like combi ovens, blast chillers
use fans to control the water content of the air inside them. This
results in smaller ice crystals forming, helping to keep the food in peak
condition.
While combi ovens are often seen as the standard choice for cook chill
they aren’t suitable for every type of cooking process. For example,
liquid foods that are prepared in equipment like bratt pans - soup,
sauces, stews and things of that nature can also be processed via cook
chill. This will require a method of safely transferring the food from
the pans into containers to allow it to be chilled. Choosing equipment
with auto-tilt features can help to make moving large batches of food
like this simpler and much safer for staff, removing the need to lift or
move heavy pans within the kitchen. Depending on the consistency and
116
volume of the product to be processed it would need to be stored in
sealable containers, or sealable plastic bags.
Some businesses use vacuum sealers as part of the pre-cook chill
process for products like this, which further helps to guarantee the
integrity of the food.
Vacuum packaging is a key part of sous vide cooking, which can also
be used as the cook part of cook-chill. The food is sealed within plastic
bags throughout the cooking and chilling process granting it another
level of protection. As well as helping to guarantee hygiene this method
could also be useful in controlling cross contamination between
allergenic foods, or helping to meet different dietary requirements.
Of course, while the core cook-chill system process can help to
guarantee the condition and hygiene of the food once it has been
cooked, the conditions in which the ingredients are stored and handled
can cause issues if high standards aren’t maintained. You may need
additional storage space for ingredients, and those ingredients should
be logged and recorded as they are brought in to ensure they are used
before expiry dates pass. This process should also be applied to food
once it has been chilled or frozen, with a first out/first used structure.
 As batch cooking requires large amounts of ingredients using
equipment like automated vegetable slicers will help save staff time
during the preparation stage.

While traditionally cook chill has been the reserve of large scale
catering, in recent years manufacturers have been creating more
compact equipment that allows businesses of any size to integrate
it into their workflow. Preparing and storing smaller batches of
meals in advance is a great way of expanding a menu beyond what
could be handled by most kitchens in a standard service, without
compromising on the quality of the results.

While it might seem daunting integrating new technology and

working practices into your business the benefits cook chill can bring
can easily outweigh the disadvantages.

For example it can help to mitigate the problems many businesses

are facing with recruiting and retaining highly skilled staff, by allowing
fewer staff to pre-prepare more complex food during quieter times of
the day which can be stored for use during busy periods. This kind of
time management helps to reduce running costs by lowering energy
consumption, as batches of product can be cooked and processed for
chilled storage at the same time.

Considering the economic pressures many businesses are facing

currently, as well as the drive to improve sustainability, cook chill
systems are likely to become an increasingly common element of
businesses looking to optimise their operations.

The Foodservice Equipment Association (FEA) is the independent, authoritative voice of the foodservice equipment industry, representing
nearly 200 companies who supply, service and maintain all types of commercial catering equipment - from utensils to full kitchen schemes.
For more information on FEA visit www.fea.org.uk

117
 Sea Kale – Scotland – French White Asparagus Calcots
Sandy Pattullo Produced on the banks of the Loire Valley, this A Catalonian delicacy, the calçot is a
succulent spring onion so popular it has
This Sea kale is grown by Sandy and Heather white asparagus is artfully grown by depriving
the stalks of daylight. It has a delicate flavour festivals dedicated to it! Sweet and delicate,
Pattullo at Eassie Farm in Angus, Scotland.
and its colour gives it a contemporary elegance they are delicious charred with an unctuous
Like forced rhubarb, the sea kale plants are
on the plate. Sweeter and more tender than romesco sauce. Use a griddle pan or
grown in a dark, heated room in late winter,
the green variety, this asparagus is highly barbecue to blacken and infuse them with a
from January to March, so that early, tender
sought after by chefs. smokey flavour.
shoots are forced upwards searching for light
- offer a unique nutty flavour. Sandy started
growing sea kale in the 1980s and has seen its
popularity return. ‘People are becoming more Strawberry French
selective in their tastes and they appreciate a
special, local flavour’.
Gariguettes
An old Provençal variety, these French
Gariguettes have an elongated shape, glossy
red flesh and sweet, floral flavour. Prized
Asparagus Green French as one of the best tasting and most
Special Branch fragrant strawberries, serve it
simply and allow it to be
February welcomes the arrival of French green
the star of the show.
asparagus. Both the supple tips and more
fibrous stalks can be used in a wide variety of
recipes and dishes. Its woody, earthy flavours
pair wonderfully with fish, as well as working
exceptionally well with runny egg or in soups.

118
Wild Garlic
This February we will see the first flourish of
freshly foraged British wild garlic leaves. Sweet
and strong in flavour, these vibrant, elongated
green leaves are exceptionally versatile. Make
a vivid green garlic mayonnaise, wilt it with
spinach to brighten the taste or add it to your
pasta dough. Wild garlic also pairs beautifully
with soups and seafood.

119
 www.westking.ac.uk

pacotizing beakers, together with a new fitted

your team. You can also efficiently monitor your

STEP INTO A BRAND

NEW FUTURE
enrol at Westminster Kingsway College
 THE
SOMMELIER
DIARIES

121
 THE SOMMELIER DIARIES
Words by Jean Smullen

THE ATLAS OF
Romanian
122
WINE
 ROMANIA, ONE OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST WINEMAKING COUNTRIES, IS A
E U R O P E A N W I N E C O U N T RY W I T H E N O R M O U S P O T E N T I A L A N D A S TO RY TO
TELL. IT HAS ONE OF THE WORLD’S OLDEST WINE MAKING TRADITIONS.

Wine production started when the Greeks

brought the vine to the region via the Black Sea
between 600-500 BC. Today, Romania ranks
6th in production terms in Europe after France,
Spain, Germany and Portugal and 13th in the
world for the total hectares of vineyards planted
and its wine production volumes. (OIV 2022).

With 180,000 ha under vine, in recent years

Romanian wines have generated great
interest from global wine buyers due to
their quality and affordable prices. Many
of Romania’s producers are small boutique
producers. Their indigenous varieties include
Fetească Neagră, Fetească Regală, Fetească
Albă, Băbească Neagră, and Șarba. Noble
European red and white grapes are also
widely planted. Romania shares borders
with Ukraine, Moldova, Hungary, Serbia, and
Bulgaria and has eight wine regions

Romanian wine expert Iulian Bărbuceanu

creator of “Atlasul Vinului Românesc”
(The Atlas of Romanian Wine) and has been
Iulian Bãrbuceanu
very much to the fore in terms of raising
awareness for Romanian wine in recent years,
primarily through his interactive wine map
https://vinurilocale.ro/

He was born in Delau Mare which is one of

Romania’s most important wine regions and
originally studied Geography. He started
working as a carpenter in 2010, collecting old
Romanian wine barrels which he fashioned
into table tops. This developed to a small
business designing furniture for restaurants.
He sourced the oak barrels from wineries
and built up a strong network of contacts
with many of the producers in Romania.
Most of his furniture output was decorative
and the restaurants were keen to purchase
his wooden tables and chairs. Between
2010 and 2017 Iulian build a strong working
relationship with the wineries and the
hospitality industry in Romania through his
carpentry business. Atlasul Vinului Românesc” (The Atlas of Romanian Wine)

123
 At the same time, he was working as a tour
guide which further stimulated his interest
in the wine regions. Always interested in
cartography, Iulian first started creating
maps in 2012, and is largely self-taught. He
developed his own computer programme
to generate good quality maps of the
Romanian wine regions.

When Covid hit, his carpentry business went

on hold, with all the restaurants closed there
was no market for his products. He spent the
time in lockdown creating maps and out of
that his current business was born.

The Atlas of Romanian Wine is an

interactive business tool that aims to
promote Romanian wine to the global
market. It acts as a business support to give
the wineries visibility. Click on a specific
region and a menu of potential producers
will appear. Click on a region and the map
will tell you how many wineries are there,
click again and you get a detailed view of
the landscape, click on a specific wineries
name and you get the link to their website.
It is a very clever and interesting way to
promote wine.

Iulian is now working closely with many of

the wineries and in November 2023 was
instrumental in bringing 35 Romanian
producers from 7 region to Dublin to sell
their wines. The event was organised in
association with the Romanian Embassy
in Ireland and included a Masterclass as
well as a wine fair. The wine map was
Romanian Wine Fair
very much to the fore and by clicking a QR
code, trade guests could access all the
information they need, in English about
the wineries via their websites. The team
from “Atlasul Vinului Românesc” (The
Atlas of Romanian Wine), including Iulian
Bărbuceanu assisted by Mihai Ciucur
(Romanian Sommelier of the Year 2023),
Eduard Jakab, Lorand Antal, and Irinel
Macici.

Iulian would like to develop his concept with

other wine regions and wine countries and
it certainly merits consideration. Many of
the generic bodies would find his wine atlas
concept very useful in terms of interactively
highlighting producers and regions.

Iulian’s next project is a Romanian Wine

Week that will take place from 22nd to 28th

124
April, 2024. This will be an on-line global
platform to promote Romanian wine and
the website for the event is currently in
development. He is also hoping to arrange
a physical tasting in various Romanian wine
regions and hope persuade a delegation
of trade buyers from key markets for
Romanian wine to travel to Romania to take
part in the event.

Iulian and his team were joined Romanian

Master of Wine Ana Săpungiu who told
me that the Romanian wine industry has
evolved rapidly in the last 10 years and there
has been an extensive investment in the
vineyards and wineries. There are producers
that are concentrating on choosing the
grape varieties suited to their individual
terroir, producing a wine that is unique to
them, with a story to tell. Although there are
still plenty of plantings with international
varieties that are made in a style for the
international palate, there is an increasing
focus on indigenous varieties. This is great to
see and to be encouraged as it offers a point
of difference in a such a crowded market. Romanian Sommelier Team in Dublin

Presenting the Masterclass “Understanding the New Romanian Wine” was Betty Darabont, who is currently studying at the Institute of
Masters of Wine. Betty has a very impressive resume, an economics graduate with a BSc in International Economics and Management, she
also holds an MSC from Geisenheim University in Germany in Viticulture an Enology. Betty makes wine for her family business, Familia
Darabont located in the Biharia and Crișana region.

125
 The focus of the tasting of eight wines was on the native varietals and
it certainly showed what the Romanian native grapes are capable of.
CATNARI FRÂNCUȘĂ MILLESIME 2016
This bottle fermented sparkling wine made from 100% Francusa
produced in the Cotnari Region. Frâncușa is a very rare grape,
originating from an old Roman cultivar that has been growing in the
Cotnari region for many centuries. Aged on its lees for 61 months, this
limited-edition wine has a total production of 10,000 bottles. With a
fine mousse and lots of brioche aromas, there was a lovely fresh acidity
with nice citrus notes. This experimental product offers a new direction
for the next generation of Romanian producers and as a sparking wine
style it was very impressive.
LILIAC FETEASCĂ REGALĂ 2022
Fetească Regală is the most widely planted grape in Romania. It
originated in 1920 in Transylvania, and is thought to be a hybrid cross
of Feteasca Albă and Frâncușa. During the communist era it was
widely planted because of its productivity and the fact that it is an
126
early ripener and is frost resistant. Betty told us that it can produce
more a concentrated elegant style of wine and more producers are
starting to age it in oak. Liliac is a 52-ha estate with an Austrian
owner located in the DOC Lechinta in Transylvania. The climate
here is cooler and the wine was quite floral on the nose. It had an
ABV of 12% and was quite fresh with lots of lemon/lime fruit. A
subtle fresh style, this was well made and shows what the grape is
capable of.
ZGHIHARA DE HUSI DIAMOND SELECTION 2022
Produced by DOMENIILE AVEREȘTI the Zghihara de Husi is an old
Romanian cultivar, produced for centuries. Zghihara is a symbol of the
Averesti Estates, they are the only producers of it. An extremely rare
varietal from the DOC Husi region which is on the border with Moldova
in Eastern Romania. They use a German style bottle and the grape
has subtle lime and lemon flavours and a fresh acidity. An interesting
grape, notable for its rarity.
 WILD YEAST FETEASCĂ ALBĂ 2019

This wine is made by Dacon Clan in the DOC Delau Mare. Fetească
Albă is a clone of Fetească Neagră and today it is widely cultivated
in Romania, Moldova, and Hungary. This fruit was sourced from
a 40-year-old vineyard in the Fintesti area. The wine had a dark
golden-brown colour with a nutty quince like character. 2019 was
a relatively warm year and there was also a hint of dried apricot.
Fermented using wild yeast it was aged for 8 months in oak and had
lovely long spicy flavours on the finish.

FLEURT 2022

This juicy fresh dry rosé was made by Betty’s family the Darabont
winery in DOC Crisana – Biharia. A blend of Burgund Mare
(Bläufrankisch) and Fetească Neagră. Vinified in a reductive style
with selected yeasts in a temperature controlled stainless steel tank,
a blend of saignée (Fetească Neagră) and direct pressed (Burgund
Mare). This is a typical fresh, juicy rose with lots of strawberry
flavours, that shows the true varietal character of both grapes.
Fetească Neagră is one of the most widely planted grapes in Romania.

NEGRU DE DRĂGĂȘANI 2020

Negru de Drăgășani is a cross between Negru Vârtos and Saperavi.

This wine is produced in the DOC Delau Mare by Viile Metamorfosis
which was bought by Piero Antinori in 2010. This was one of my
favourite reds in the tasting. It had a lovely expressive nose, full of
spice, smoke, chocolate and dark plum. Barrell aged all those flavours
followed through on to the palate. There was plenty of fruit and it was
quite intense and chocolaty but with a nice firm tannin. It also had an
ABV of 16% which was well integrated, a wine to sip with restraint!

EPIPHANIE 2019

The DOC Sarica-Niculițel is located close to the Ukrainian border, and

inland from the Black Sea. Produced by Via Viticola Sarica Niculitel
who own four wineries and farm a total of 750 ha. This is a late
harvest Fetească Neagră. This is extractive wine making, the wines
were aged for 2 years, the first in new French oak barriques before
spending 12 months being aged in bottle. It was a beautiful wine,
with dried plum and sweet spice favours. This wine showed the
very different styles of wine that can be produced from the Fetească
Neagră grape.
FLAMBOYANT 2019
This is one of the flagship wines of the DOC Dealu Mare, a blend of
58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 10% Fetească Neagră
it is made by Davino winery who produce 45,000 bottles of it.
100% barrel-aged in Romanian oak barrels, of which 90% new and
10% second use, for a minimum of 13 months. It is then bottle aged a
minimum of 28 months. This was still in its infancy and will need a lot
more time but it was a beautiful wine. There was a very elegant use of
oak and the Cabernet was certainly to the fore.
Having tasted the range, it is very apparent the enormous potential
that Romania has, especially these small boutique producers. The
opportunity to taste the best from the country’s most innovative and
exciting new wave of producers was certainly one not to be missed.
Romania has a bright future ahead of it, and through the work if Iulian,
Betty, and Ana I have no doubt that the world will be seeing a lot more of
their wines in the future.

Contact Iulian Bărbuceanu info@atlasulvinului.ro Tel 0040 72 999 36 76

Visit https://romanianwines.ie/ for an interactive digital guide of all the wines available at the Dublin tasting. You can search by pairing options,
alcohol, sugar levels and find out precise information about the terroir and each label including contact information and import options.

127
 Modular Creativity
In Your Kitchen
Have you ever wondered how you could simultaneously speed up, yet simplify your creative
culinary process? All too often, creativity is the one element that always ends up at the bottom
of a never-ending to do list. To keep on top of your game of innovating and surprising your guests,
you must allow yourself the time and space to be creative. One thing that won’t work, is to sit
down and ‘wait for inspiration’, but you can definitely stimulate your creativity by feeding it!

Go the modular route

In professional kitchens, you work with component recipes. Think of
a dressing, sous vide pork loin or pommes dauphine. Gastronomixs
provides recipes in exactly that way. The beauty of the way Escoffier
founded this strict and organized way of working, lends itself for the
quick creation of new dishes. Mixing and matching recipes to meet
the demand of guests. A modular system for creativity so to say,
you could compare it to playing with LEGO® as a child. It gives you the
freedom to create a whole new world of original, eye-catching dishes. A
component will never define your style and signature, the combination
of components in a dish will!

About Gastronomixs
Gastronomixs.com is an award-winning culinary platform, which
offers thousands of components for everyday ingredients. From a
nectarine broth to a chocolate bergamot espuma or kimchi reduction.
Gastronomixs is also proud to work with the leaders of our
industry: nobody less than Ayo Adeyemi from restaurant Akoko in
London was their guest chef recently. Many other renowned chefs
like Luke French, Ben Murphy, Gareth Ward, Adam Handling and Tom
Booton are sharing various signature recipes on the platform. All
recipes on Gastronomixs are building blocks for an endless supply
of dishes. The platform is very user-friendly and organized in such a
way that you will quickly find whatever you need. Currently, over
35,000 chefs are already benefitting from this online tool.
Will you be next?

128
Creating with building
blocks and smart
technology

The Gastronomixs team continuously

creates new components. There are new
recipes added to the platform every week.
All those tried-and-tested recipes save you
thousands of hours (!) of testing. And it’s
not only recipes, the platform also gets more
and more attractive because of newly added
tech features.

Users repeatedly mentioned that they adjust

components on Gastronomixs, often after
printing the recipes and scribbling on them.
Cooking is, of course, evolving on each
other's recipes. Less sugar, a different fruit
coulis... just to name two examples. So a
few months ago, Gastronomixs launched a
new feature that makes it possible to create
variants on component recipes! This gives
chefs even more flexibility in working with
the ever-expanding recipe database of
Gastronomixs. In 2024, a plethora of new
and exciting features are set to launch, so
be sure to stay tuned for these upcoming
enhancements!

129
130
Scallop rouleau with sea
buckthorn berry and scallop roe
mayonnaise
The scallop pairs well with fresh, aromatic flavours. Because the scallop in the rouleau is brined, it stands up well to the strong flavours in this dish. The sea
buckthorn gel adds a refined acidity, while the scallop coral mayonnaise contributes a smoky and rich taste. The leche de tigre, enhanced with flavours of
coriander, ginger, and garlic, combines with scallop roe oil to create a unique vinaigrette. This dish is elegantly finished with a fine brunoise of salted lemon
and a garnish of nasturtium leaves and petals.

Sea buckthorn berry gel

A lovely tangy gel that can be used in both sweet and savoury
dishes. Sea buckthorn berries are very acidic but calamansi
coulis and sugar can be used to give the gel a well-balanced
flavour.

Makes 3kg.

Ingredients ● Add the agar agar

● 1L water
● 350g calamansi coulis
● 250g liqueur, such
as Grand Marnier or
Cointreau
● 400g sugar
● 40g agar agar
Preparation method
● Bring the sea buckthorn
berry coulis, water,
calamansi coulis,
Cointreau, and sugar to
the boil.
while stirring and
boil for another three
minutes while stirring
continuously.
● Pour into a Gastronorm
tray and leave to cool
until completely set.
● Transfer to a
thermoblender and
blend into a gel.

Gel of salted lemon

In Morocco, salted lemons are called Hamad Muraqqad. Many
different spices are added during the preserving process which
imbues the lemons with a complex flavour.

Makes 1 litre.

Ingredients Preparation method

● 150g salted lemon rind ● Finely chop the salted
● 700ml water lemon rind in a food
● 200ml lemon juice processor.
● 100g sugar syrup, 1:1 ● Boil all the ingredients
● 5g gellan gum together.
● 5g agar agar ● Simmer for five minutes
● 5g Citras to remove the flavour of
● as needed salt the agar-agar.
● Leave to cool.
● Place in a blender and
blend until you have a
smooth gel.

131
Scan me...

...and a digital, culinary

world opens up for you!
recipes
AMARE
By Graham Mairs

PASSION FRUIT, KAFFIR LIME LEAVES

AND CHOCOLATE TART
By Shona Sutherland

YKA LEAVES AND CHAMPAGNE GEL

WITH STRAWBERRY AND BLACK
VANILLA GANACHE BON BONS
By Shona Sutherland

PINK GRAPEFRUIT AND ACLLA CRESS

PÂTE DE FRUIT
By Shona Sutherland

133
 AMARE
By Graham Mairs

6.0 textures of Strawberry + Rose + Lychee

WILD STRAWBERRY CONFIT BASIL JACONDE METHOD

Heat sugars, water and puree to 90c. Add
INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS gelatin mass and pour onto chocolate and
● 160g Boiron Strawberry Puree ● 250g Egg White condensed milk.
● 128g Neutral Glaze ● 2.5g Egg White Powder Blend for 1 minute, add nappage and color,
● 19g Lemon Juice ● .05g Xanthan Gum re-blend for 1 minute. Chill for 24 hrs.
● 192g Semi Candied Wild Strawberries ● 100g Sugar
● 200g Ground Almonds LYCHEE CHANTILLY
METHOD ● 225g Icing Sugar
Mix the pulp with the neutral glaze and ● 50g T45 flour INGREDIENTS
lemon juice. ● 50g Potato Starch ● 80g Boiron Lychee Puree
Gently stir in the diced fruit. ● 35g Pistachio Paste ● 30g Sugar
Store in the refrigerator. ● 14g Basil Puree ● 5g Vanilla
● 100g Mascarpone
STRAWBERRY ROSE CREAM METHOD ● 250g 35% Cream
Beat the egg whites with powder, xanthan ● 5g Gelatin 200 Bloom
INGREDIENTS gum and sugar. ● 100
● 278g Boiron Strawberry Puree Fold in sifted almond, icing sugar, flour and ● 1g Jasmine Extract
● 39g Sugar starch. ● 3g Pink Pastel Color (optional)
● 7g Pectin NH Add pistachio paste and basil puree.
● 86g Egg White Spread in 4/5mm sheets on silicone mat and METHOD
● 5g Gelatin bake @150c for 15 minutes. Heat puree and sugar, add gelatin and
● 86g Cocoa Butter Leave to cool, cut to desired shape for dissolve.
● 1g Rose Extract layering Add mascarpone and cream and blend to
emulsify.
METHOD LYCHEE NAPPAGE Set for 24 hours before re whipping.
Heat up one-third of the puree. At 115°F
(45°C), add the sugar and pectin mixture, INGREDIENTS FINISHING TOUCH
then bring the mix to the boil. ● 120g Boiron Lychee Puree
Take the pan off the heat and add the egg ● 215g White chocolate Crystallized Rose Petals
whites. Cook at 170°F (75°C), then add the ● 155g Condensed milk Boiron Sprayed Plaque
rehydrated gelatin. ● 225g Glucose de60 Chocolate Collar
Combine this mixture with the rest of the ● 200g Sugar Lychee Fluid Gel
puree, then gradually pour in the cocoa ● 26g Gelatin mass 5:1
butter, mixing with a blender until an ● 100g Nappage
emulsion forms ● 1g Jasmine Extract
● 3g Pink Pastel Color (optional)

134
135
 PASSION FRUIT, KAFFIR LIME
LEAVES AND CHOCOLATE TART
By Shona Sutherland

COCOA NIB SABLÉ FOR 8 TART CASES DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

– sabayon method
INGREDIENTS
● 14g ground almonds INGREDIENTS
● 28g potato starch ● 80g Xoco Gourmet 70% Tuma Yellow dark chocolate –
● 20g cocoa nibs lightly ground melted
● 87g plain flour ● 40g egg yolks (use Red Lion labelled eggs)
● 0.75g salt ● 25g granulated sugar
● 48g icing sugar ● 13ml water
● 51g butter – room temp ● 120g whipping cream (37-38% fat)
● 27g eggs
DECORATION
KAFFIR LIME LEAVES JOCONDE
- makes 8 + bases Tempered Xoco Gourmet 70% Tuma Yellow dark chocolate
Patterned green and gold cocoa butter transfer sheet and
INGREDIENTS plain 130 micron pvc guitar sheets
● 35g icing sugar – ground with the almonds in
Thermomix COCOA NIB SABLE
● 35g ground almonds – ground with the icing sugar in
Thermomix METHOD
● 16g plain flour Lay out 8 x 8cm perforated flan rings on a flat tray lined with
● 45g whole eggs an air mat.
● 7g butter - melted Weigh the flour, almonds, potato starch and salt in to a bowl,
● 28g egg whites set aside.
● 8g caster sugar Place the butter and icing sugar in a food processor, and
● 2g kaffir lime leaves powder process until creamed together.
Gradually add the egg while processing until well
PASSION FRUIT AND KAFFIR LIME LEAVES incorporated (you may need to stop the machine and scrape
Curd for 8 tarts down the sides occasionally).
Add all the other dry ingredients and process until it forms a
INGREDIENTS dough. Mix in the ground cocoa nibs.
● 4 egg yolks (80g) Form in to a ball, wrap in cling film and rest in fridge for 1 hour. Can
● 160g caster sugar be kept for 2-3 days in fridge (or frozen for used at a later date).
● 20g water Roll out pastry using thin 1.5mm spacers, using icing sugar
● 50g cornflour or flour to stop it sticking to the worktop. Cut in to strips to
● 300g passion fruit puree line the inside of the tart rings, and cut circles for the bases.
● 120g water Assemble on to air mats on flat baking sheets. Chill them for
● 8g Kaffir Lime Leaves powder at least 30 minutes in the fridge (or 10 mins in the freezer).

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Bake at 160˚C for 15 mins, check and cook more if required.
Once completely cool, keep in an airtight container until
required (can be frozen).
KAFFIR LIME LEAVES JOCONDE
METHOD
Preheat oven to 160˚C fan. Line a flat baking sheet with
silicone mat.
Mix together the icing sugar, almonds, flour, and whole
eggs in a mixer with a whisk attachment, and whisk until
light and aerated.
Melt the butter (not too hot), and whisk gradually in to the
mixture.
Whisk egg whites and caster sugar till stiff peaks with an
electric hand whisk.
Add quarter of the egg whites to the main mix to loosen it,
then fold in the other ¾ and the kaffir lime leaf powder.
Spread evenly on to the lined baking sheet (use 2mm
spacers to get an even depth).
Bake for approx. 8-10 mins till springy to touch.
Cut in to 6.5cm rounds (3.5g each). Freeze the excess for
another time.
FOR PASSION FRUIT AND KAFFIR LIME
LEAVES CURD
METHOD
Whisk together the egg yolks, sugar the 20g water and
cornflour in a bowl.
Bring to boil the passion puree and 120g water, and pour
over the yolks mix while whisking.
Pass the mixture back in to the pan and cook until it boils
and thickens while whisking, cook for further 15 seconds
then immediately pour in to a bowl.
Stir in the Kaffir Lime Leaves powder.
Place a joconde sponge disc in the bottom of each tartlet.
Pipe the passion filling in to each tartlet with a 9mm
diameter hole in piping bag in a circular motion, covering
the sponge (20g per tart).
Chill the tartlets until the chocolate layer is ready to go on.
METHOD FOR CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
METHOD
Melt chocolate to 45˚C.
Whip cream until soft peak in a large bowl with an electric
hand whisk, set aside. Have piping bag ready with a 9mm
plain nozzle.
Whisk egg yolks in electric mixer.
Boil sugar and water in pan till 118˚C then pour slowly over
egg yolks while still whisking. Keep whisking till ribbon
stage. Fold chocolate in to this sabayon.
Fold the cream in to the chocolate sabayon. Place mix in the
piping bag.
Quickly pipe on top of the passion fruit curd in the tarts (20g
per tart). If the mixture has cooled down too quickly, warm
very slightly before piping so there is less likelihood of air
pockets. Level the top of the mousse with a cranked palette
knife. Keep refrigerated.
FOR DECORATION
METHOD
Spread the tempered dark chocolate on to a plain guitar
sheet, place another sheet on top and smooth with a pipe
or rolling pin. Before it sets, press a 75mm round cutter
firmly on to the sheet to mark a circle (so later it comes off
cleanly when guitar sheet is lifted off). Place between 2 flat
trays to prevent warping.
Cool until chocolate is crystallised, carefully remove the
guitar sheet and remove the circles, set aside until tart is
ready to decorate.
For the hearts, spread tempered chocolate thinly on to the
transfer sheet, let it semi-set and use a heart shaped cutter
to cut shapes. Place between 2 flat trays to avoid warping.
Let fully crystallise and then remove the cut hearts. Set
aside until required for decoration.
Once tarts are assembled, firstly place a chocolate circle on
each tart, and then use a dab of chocolate to stick on the
decorative chocolate heart shape.
Best served on the day of making kept at 14-16C.
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 YKA LEAVES AND CHAMPAGNE GEL
WITH STRAWBERRY AND BLACK
VANILLA GANACHE BON BONS
By Shona Sutherland

FOR MOULD PREPARATION STRAWBERRY AND BLACK VANILLA

GANACHE
INGREDIENTS
● 600g Xoco Gourmet 62% Mayan Red dark chocolate INGREDIENTS
● 28g strawberry puree
FOR CHAMPAGNE GEL ● 2g glucose syrup
● seeds from half black vanilla pod
INGREDIENTS ● 0.5g beetroot powder
● 30g Bramley/cooking apple puree ● 63g Xoco Gourmet 40% white chocolate
● 70g Champagne ● 10g Xoco Gourmet 62% Mayan Red dark chocolate
● 2 punnets Yka leaves – chopped ● few drops strawberry essential oil
● 50g caster sugar for the apple/champagne ● Tempered Xoco Gourmet 62% Mayan red dark
● 2g NH fruit pectin (Sosa Ingredients) (mixed in with the chocolate to cap the mould
10g sugar)
● 10g sugar for the pectin (mixed in with the pectin)
● 8g glucose syrup

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FOR CASTING MOULD
METHOD
Temper the 600g Xoco Gourmet 62% Mayan Red dark
chocolate and cast your chosen polycarbonate mould.
Let crystallise and set aside.
FOR CHAMPAGNE GEL
METHOD
Bring the Champagne to the boil with the Yka leaves, whisk
until it becomes a bright purple colour. Cover, leave to infuse
and cool for 30 minutes. Pass in to a fresh pan squeezing
out all the flavour and colour.
Mix pectin and 10g sugar together.
Bring puree, infused Champagne, glucose and 50g sugar to
approx 60C. Rain in pectin and sugar stirring well.
Bring to boil and cook to 102C.
Remove pan from heat, pour infused gel in to a container
and leave to cool to around 30-35C. Use a hand blender to
blend until smooth (it will become more opaque).
Check temperature (adjust as necessary) and when at 25-
28C pipe in to the base of each cavity until just under half full.
Set aside while making the ganache.
FOR GANACHE
METHOD
Place the white and dark chocolate in to a bowl.
Bring to boil strawberry puree, vanilla, beetroot powder and
glucose.
Pour over the chocolates, stir to emulsify, add strawberry oil
to taste.
Place in a piping bag and when at 25-28C pipe in to the
chocolate cavities on top of the Champagne gel to 2mm
from the top of each cavity.
Leave to crystallise overnight at cool room temperature or in
a chocolate fridge for a few hours or overnight.
Cap the mould with tempered dark chocolate to seal. Let
crystallise and demould.
Best before 2 weeks from making, if stored at cool room
temperature or in a chocolate fridge.
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 PINK GRAPEFRUIT AND ACLLA
CRESS PÂTE DE FRUIT
By Shona Sutherland

INGREDIENTS
● 100g pink grapefruit puree (segment fresh
pink grapefruit with juice, blend and sieve)
● 4 punnets Aclla cress – finely chopped – 2
for infusion and 2 for adding at end
● 4 individual Yka leaves (for added colour)
● 130g caster sugar (for the fruit puree)
● 20g caster (for the pectin)
● 5g pectin jaune powder (Sosa Ingredients)
● 20g glucose syrup
● 3g tartaric acid solution (50/50% in
weight tartaric acid powder to warm
water)
● Caster sugar for coating

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METHOD
Place a 14cm stainless steel square mousse
frame on a flat tray lined with a silicone mat.
Bring grapefruit puree and 2 punnets chopped
Aclla cress and 4 Yka leaves to boil. Take off
heat, cover immediately and leave to infuse for
an hour.
Mix pectin and the 20g caster sugar together
in a small dish.
Sieve grapefruit infusion in to a pan (squeezing
out as much liquid and flavour as possible) and
warm to approx 50C. Rain in pectin and sugar
while stirring. Bring to boil then stir in the glucose.
Cook to 107˚C, remove from the heat, stir in
finely chopped Aclla cress and tartaric acid.
Pour in to the frame on a silicone mat, leave to
set a room temperature, preferably overnight.
Remove from the frame, coat pâte de fruit slab
in caster sugar before cutting with guitar cutter,
shape cutter or heated knife/roller cutter.
Serve as a petit four or sweet treat.