STAY IN BEDracy 17 FEATURES 14. Why we almost aiwayshave to chooee, By Michel Goldfarb Labour's mega donors (Wh are the tee ndviduae backing the party tothe une of Sma? By GaorgePaker se im Pekar 24, Mappethorpe's world Evard Emit writes about courting workby the arest ‘American photographer 40. > Nice bun How Copenhagen’ hipsters have tamed a traction! pre Lent By imagen West Knights INTELLECT APPETITES: wit wisDom > TimHartord 32 TimHayward 14 Robert Shrimsley {a helping or hindering? Noedling in Nttingham ‘re tereany personal bankers . a4 Honey & Co coutthere? (Ontal end chickpea stow © Games 12 Gallery 2 Wine {The Questionnaire =” Leroy Cooper in Toxteth (Gen Zi inking eee Monsun Bound, maritime | Simonkuper but spending more archaeologst £ America doeset need By Hannah Crosbie EF therestoftheworld i . e on THECOvER i SEN Marginaia by Nodine Reich ‘astration by Barry BeLetters ‘crimes and punishment by Francisco Garcla beautifully measured article ‘The olan who sad no one committed crime after Beingexceuted mised the fact that some didi offend prior toexecution ether Dominic Regan, Bh Inoccuped Germany inthe ate 130s the Aled cle fudge, [New Zealand’ Bajor-General Ings was deeply troubled by the plight of four Poles facingexection formurdering German farmer. Heturnedto my father ascottish chaplain and excellent ing Inthecell werefivemen. The four Petes wer playing cards. ‘efit prisoner was mest sent. My lather extracted the story. ‘The Poles had been slave labourers Starving they'd raided the farm The ling wasn the het of ‘hemoment, not premeditated My father recommenced clemency, thatthe Poles should be sent to help German orphans. Ings commuted the penal. My father Sse the warder abot the fifth Prisoner twas the ange of death eng up his lent Pierrepont. "evan Nisbet iaema! Capital punishment isthe potitical/ ime that ook me longet todecideon than anyother since fret reading newspaper reports of thelas British hangings the 160m There are arguments for and against Those who callit A deterrent nist ase why in that ‘ase murders continue unabated, Those who claim the state should not takes ie should retet that the same tate allows the armed forces todo exactly that. Those who backed the hanging of Rath Es ‘muss what possible good was chleved by ling wronged and otherwise worthy pers, Forme the winning argument was the unacceptably of hanging Innocent people while Insisting ‘pon their gull, something that the UK was abitto good a daing inthe 20th century Although DNA asbelped here, any system run by Inuman being proneto error as thecontinued eleasesof innocent people after years in prison shows Joh Webster, Ader, Hants My paternal grandfather (born ina896) had one claim tofame, ‘which he reportedly aed every possible opportunity, quiteoten Inthe pubic house around the ‘corner from were he lived: he was Inthe baying mob ouside Baw Stret magistrates court when ‘Willam joyce was arralgnedater thevar Iwas even when be ded and have noecollectionf thistle, Dutt was reminded oft many mes over the years by my late father and ther exasperated relatives, ‘Yoursplendidarticleon Abert Piccrepint reminded meof this {all connection, as Joyce was hanged by the famovsenectiones in January 19453t Wandsworth prison. havealways assumed my srandather couldnt get the day ‘for that ocasiomand decided ‘hyoringa sickiewas not worthit "Thank gowines, those days and practcesarelongbehind ws, Robert Boston, kingsl, Kent Welcome tothe Enehittocene ycary Doctorow Tiusally exasperated by leftists ‘who complain about the power of Apple ete mainly because they did come up with the vision fortheidea. Bit there' bic more toltyand theappreacho this, ticle, edcational yt not patronising, has potentially made Ie change my mind aa think th ‘wemay pow want to renin tech, Tam very happy that inthe era ofindviduals being fd stu that reinforces thelr elles, this pee tmademe widen my hereon BWOF Ha Econ ‘The paychologst who st Idontiiedimpester syndrome by Marianna Gat ‘Thatending!Abriliant woman. Lit Mis Pigy ve com 4 remeuaerioin ‘TocoNTRIBUTE ‘Youcan comment on out articles online or ai “nagerineletersgitcom Pease ince a daytime telephone number and full ‘adress (nt for publication Letters maybe edited. Timetotaxbilionaires bysimen Kuper Simon Kuper writes about axing billoales As he mentions, [Norway doer sothrough an anual taxon net wealth, Thetaxratele currently percent on wealth above Et smmandralss c2.25bn forthe government. The ey issue forthe tax authority istovale the assets of individ ach year, In parteular, shares in nonlsted companies arc likely undervalue, ‘Unsurprisingly, the wealthiest hold significant share oftheir wealth Inunlisted companies, suchthat thelr eectivetaxrates ae lower ‘Kuper mentions outmlration among wealthy Norwegians and Connects thistothe wealth tax, However other capital income {taxes are also party pad bythe ‘wealthy, n particular taxes on ‘apital gains, dividends and orporsencome. Since Norway introduced new capital gine and dividend taesin 2006, many billonaies have acrucd large unrealised expt gains. Until ‘November 3022 the wealthy could reals these ainstaxfreeafter living in Switzerland fo fv years ‘Avoiding ax on unrealised gain fs ‘morelikely to have eon the reason forthe increase in outmagration. than the wealth tax, asthe wealth tax has ben in place for Tong, time and the tax savings on capital ‘als were age "Thelesson for ober countries In taxing ilonales isto take seriously boththe information Fequited forthe tax tobe effective and thedesignofexitrules Kristofer Ber, Oyo Unversity (Genre for Busnes Taaton k j [An Atican avour revelation by Tim Hayward Trwith Till the way. Weve been goingto chishuru since twas inBriston, and Adejoke ooks ome fot the most sitting, teresting food anywhere. Ontop ofthis she [incredibly yenune snd warm, which permeatesthe whole place oMumacanng remus(auz Sake eaacIsTo this day, most mattresses are made using synthetic materials and sprayed with fi retardant chemicals. At Naturalmet, we've always thought this was ludicrous. Since 1999, from he banks ofthe river Ex in Devon, we've only used natural, organic ond sustinable materials to moke our beds and mattress. Tonks to these natwral bres, including organic wool sourced wily from farmers here inthe for hocthier, restful, and of course, nota nights sloop, thw, our mateses oer ‘orgonic, local. sustainable.FT Weekend Magazine Intellect TIM HARFORD Stumblingoverthe jagged frontier of AI Google Deep minutes of yur ine as an itt ishing capabilities andeally surprising Incapabii although GPT-¢ cannot find the win the ae wth thee its, not only can GPT-4 solve many problems that wouldstretch a human expert, it can do soa hundred fmes mare qulekiy Second, thereare many ther sks at which GPT-4 makes mistakes tha would embarrass 10-year-old. Third es wery hard to figure out which tasks fll into which category. ‘With experience, one starts to gta feel forthe weaknesses andthe hidden superpowers ofthe Tange language model, buteven experienced users willbe surprised. Carlini test Hiustrates a pot that has been explored in 2 more realistic context by a team bf researchers working with Boston Consulting Group (BCG). Their study focuses on why the strengths and weaknesses of penerative Al are ten unexpected. Fugly, is ttled Navigat- ing the Jagged Technologlel Front ‘ALBCG, consultants armed with GPT-¢dramat- sally outperformed those without the tol. They were given a range of realistic tasks uch as bral Storming product Ideas, performing a market Segqentation analysis and writing press eease ‘Those with GPT-4 did more work, more qulely and of much higher quality. GPT, i seems, 2 terrific assistant to any management consult fant especially those with ess sil or experience. ‘he researchers also included a tak that I scemed the AI should find eary, but which was Carefully designed to confound It This was to sake strategy recommendations toa client based fn financial data and transcripts of interviews vith staff, The trick was tha the financial data ‘ras kely tobe misleading unless viewed Inthe Tight ofthe interviews. ‘his task wasn't beyond ant, but itd fool the A, extremely bad strategic advice. The consultants were, ofcourse, feet ignore the As output, or vento cutthe Al out entirely, but they rarely di. ‘This was the one task at which the ualded con sultants performed beter than these equipped with Grr. Tis isthe “Jagged frontier” of generative AL performance. Sometimes the AI ir beter than you, and sometimes you are better than the Al. {Goo ick guessing whichis which "This column isthe third in a serles about generative AU In Itmaynotbecasy ‘our smartphones than with our loved ones, ung rm to replace the Ty, rai, camera, laptop, sainay, Walkman, creditcard and above all, 35 anendiess source of distraction. ‘Why suggest the hone might teach us some thing about generative AT The tecnologes ate ‘diferent, true. But we might wanttorefec.on how utc we Became dependent on smartphones And how quickly we tated to turn to them ot of habit rather than asa deliberate cole. We want ‘company, but instead of meting fiend we fre foffa ect, We want something ‘ead, but rather than picking up 2 book, we doomscroll stead of which I have been scrambling to tofigureoutwhen ‘8 good movie, TikTok. Email and find teehnologieal precedents for generative ALwill ‘WhatsApp become substitute for the unprecedented. Stil, even elpusandwhenit ——_doingreal work. an imperfect analogy can be instructive. Looking at assistive Ay by-wiresystemsalerts uso the "bk of complacency and deskilings the sudden ‘ibe ofthe digital spreadsheet shows us how a technology can destroy what seems tbe the foun Aatlons of an industry, yet end up expanding the ‘umber and range of new jobs in that industry. This week, Fa like to suggest a final precu sor the Phone. Whea Steve Jobs launched the [gene defining Phone in 2007, few people imag. ned just how ubiquitous smartphones would become. ACs they were litle more than an expensive toy. The killer app was the ability to ‘make them crack and burs ke lghtabers. et Soon enough, we were spending more time with willgetinour way “There wil bea time and a place for generative A, just as there I time and a place to consul the supercomputer in your pocket. Butt may not be any to igre out whe I wil elp us and when Teil get in our way Unlike with generative Al, anybody wlth a pea, paper and thee minutes to spare can write alist of what they do beter with 2Ssmartphone in hand, and what they do beter ‘shen thesmariphone sont of sight. The challenge [eto remember that lst and act accordingly. ‘The smartphone isa powerfultool that most of usunthinkingly misuse many mes day despite the fact that fs fa less mysterious than a large language model ke GPT-4. WII we telly doa Detter job withthe Al tols to come? WORKLIFE By AMY HWANG "| CANT BELIEVE THEY DIDN'T HAVE CUTTING BOARDS”Park Hyatt London River Thames Residences at Nine Elna will offers pecles epporanity for husury living in the hese ofthe city (One to three bedroom apartmenes and penthouses sarting fom the 20h floor wall exceed expectations tongh smcompromising srtention to detail and personalised services from Park Hiya. 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Coming rom Liverpool Ticinddearopenedtietoneth "Coopers 205, FetwalolnemnastheLierponls anemia anerbion woallat—_hewrkopenct ate stm Pietcermanetan dureyeat term aicte "aertrarescoperdcded ‘ithe anita been wart pitngapy sown. ein ‘itn towbathehadscenand Words y Sind mpl Thug ormercthan fo, "Tepatiegh ete” Neghedoumesed Lips ttacnd/tpotrns vce tueOAKWRIGHTS* Beautiful by Nature akwrights are widely recognised as the UK's most forward-thinking company in the oak framing market. From garden buildings, garages and home right through to our incredible timber framed homes, CuPc ert ee Use the QR code to take a tour inside Mark and Sarah's luxury holiday accommodation2 SIMON KUPER Theawful truthis the UScangoitalone nenightin june 1942,aGerman boat dropped four Naz sab teurs on 2 Hamptons beach, They took a tain to New York, whete their eader, Gorge Jo Dasch, informed the FBI about them, Four other Germans, who had landed in Ponte Vedra, Florida, wearing summing trunks adorned with swastika, were caught ton. The US ‘sce sief the aboters but pared Dasch He fied inag92 In Ludwigshafen, Germany, aged 8. ‘ean mainland bya hostile state ths pas century. (Pearl Harbor happened 2,000 miles ff the mal Tad, andthe 9/1 attacks were perpetrated by a terrorist group.) Ia shor, the US salmostimpreg ible. Harly any event ofits shoresaflectsit This {reates the American paradonthe US remainsthe indispensable nation” for defending vulnerable countries suchas Ukraine, yet ican treat them 35 Aispensable. The ree work needs the US but the 'Usinay not need the ree world Thats the hor ble gle behind Donald Trump's work I 38 president, heabandons Ukraine and other demoe cies, the Us will probably be ust fine. ‘The US's stint as global policeman peaked with the D-Day landings D-Day saved Farope, bat it was arguably an act of American altruism. Had Filer won in Burope, the US might have thrived in eoation, The US then built «global postwar architecture - the UN, Nato, internation fina ‘fal and trade institutions - that benclted the (world more than it dld Americana. Global trade only enhanced American prosperity alittle Ben today, the US's trade-to-GDP ratio is just percent. China, Rusia and Japan are Between 538 and 47 per cent, France and the UK about Jo pr cent, and Germany at 100 per eon, cale [ates the World Bank ‘American mary hawks long made te fle arguments fr intervening in the work. One, the [US to intervene forts own security and, two, could do so successfully. fact, the US won only one war after 1945 (against Saddam Hus Seininigon), yet themlitary failures Vietnam, Innqand Afghanistan didnt endanger its security, That's largely because no coun try ever seriously contemplated allackng the US. Theonly genuine threat to it was fom intercon ‘ental nuclear mises, but once Astate got those, the US wouldat do fight it anyway. Thirty years ago, Madeleine Albright, then secretary of sate, asked General Colin Powell: “Whats the point of having his superb military that you're always talking about itwecan use” Thetruthfl answer would have beens it serves as job creation scheme, viilty symbol, stimulus package for politically power: fulregions and stat subsidy for arms companies, ‘Even when the military di fight, the death toll was always higher at home, fom uns, dgs And mental health problems. The 7,000-plas ‘American tops klled in wars since 9/11 ate ‘outnumbered by homicides in Chicago alone in wouter fourfold by stiles of military personnel Some domestic American conflts ook alot like wars Local police forces deployed kit bought for use in iraq and Afghanistan against Black For Donald Tramp, thepointoftheUS miliaryistosuppress esticopponents neighbourhoods, while in 2020 ‘Trump suggested troops shoot Black Lives Matter protesters. For ‘im, the point ofthe mitary isto suppress domes tleopponents ‘He tntltssomething fundamental about Amer: fam: theie scariest enemies are within. Ts why every forelgn war gets converted into an ‘American culture var Inthe 950, tei! hat the Soviets were going to attack was transmuted Into the McCarthyte han for most imaginary ‘American communists Today, Israel's war in Gaza ‘morphs into Republican cra ‘Sdenginst university presidents ‘while Ukraine tight fr survival ‘becomes a Trumpian weapon to the Democrats. Team's political genius les in expressing aspects of the ‘American id that were taboo in ‘Washington. nsoaras he thinks about the world beyond the US, he wants to hurt it Nationalists elsewhere fantasise about ditching alliances and acting alone. Britain has tried this with Brex ‘Russia with various invasions and sacl in Gaza Trump realises thatthe impregnable US actually «oul oitalone. ean downgrade alles to cents, Inhis long-standing vision of Nato as a US-run protection scheme, he sees asia asthe muscle Scaring Europeans into paying up. ‘Trumpian soltionlstn could destroy Ukraine That would embolden aggressors everywher {oom Russian eastern Furopeto Chinain Taian But the stant screams would fost be fodder for ‘ew American culture wars Sion perf comReady for your next chapter? From Regency streets to rural retreats, we're here for where life takes you. Your partners in property“ Justice or peace, but not both A popular protest slogan and the reality that for peace to prevail, sometimes justice is impossible. By Michael Goldfarb o justice, no peak shout pro-Palestinian marchers moving through citiesin Europe and the US. They have chanted those words and carried themalofi on placards at protests since October 7, when Hamas’ vicious attackon southern Israel provoked Israels ongoing destructionof Gaza. Itisnotanew slogan but s well-suited to our times Ithasa certain rhythm toit,a ‘marchingcadencethat worksasacallandresponsetohelpkeepacrowlofdemonstra tors going I'vegone ona few marches back in the day where the slogan waschanted and picked it up myself "No justice, no peace!” Even though itco hintofathreat- ifwedont get justice, you dontt.get peace - who could object, really? ains theslightest sce are good things. Spina, comet plop expt isnt an abeente ofa is 4 Rate of mind, 4 dposton for benevolen Confecejntice” Martner King too There can ida Ii, and thre can ben ie wut peace The truth i more compliated Socteties emerging from conflict are more likey to be Can have sce, but you can hardly ever ave ft, Tam not belng eye This lo conch Son based onto many conversations ve bad sith people whe have ho ive wihout utcfor thelr loved ones, o that tel fellow clzens ould move pest confit and know peace. ‘here are important questions that hover over such people Is peace obly posible If your etn Side wins unconditionally i tha us victory? ‘Vietors set the rules and we post confct legal codes. Tey decide what justice looks ke But the ‘trs' definition of justce might not be what the ‘anguished consider ittobe, and sotheseods are planted forthe next confit. ‘Does a truce or ceasefire equal peace? Inthe the most common way toend acon. The 1995 Dayton agreement ended the Bosnian wa butt froneinplcethe division ofthe country with en slons sll unresolved There have been no more ‘massacres, as at Srebrenica, but Fim not sure | ‘would call dyfunctional governance there and enduring sectarian hatred “peace January 9 1998, ust outside Belast, arorie Mo" Mavlan, Bens sc ‘retary of state for Northern ireland, ‘went tothe Maze prison to meet pie ners serving time for paalltary offences. Once gun the *pece” proves in the retive province sve stalin Fr cary five years the negotiations ‘hat held the promise thatthe Troubles wold nd had proceeded in its and starts. Each logjam hha seenspastof violence ceaseiresbroken with bombs or executions by paranitariesf peopl in thelr local pub, These were Bloody events that pu ‘he negotiations back ears. BY the start of 98 there was broad agreement ‘on how the politcal structures ofa pst ‘confit ‘Norther Ieand could work The sticking polnt forthe partes that represented the working lass communities ding the fighting was what to do, about thee paramilitaries serving time. ‘Over he 3 years the cll wa raged In North «emrelan the paramilitary groups -or errors, ifyouprefer-Inboth communities had developed politica partes. The leaders of those parties were participants inthe negotiations and they were not ‘oing to leave thee fighters In prison The other [Northern trish party Iaers nthe als were not iterested in discussing the fates ofthese prison- es but owlam understood there could ever be Anagrecment without thelr assent ‘she went to the Blaze that day spetfically to meet with loyalist paramilitaries on the Pros: tnt side of the conic. Her cv servants dit want her to go. Many ofthe other party leaders Inthe negotiations didn't either. They thought her visit would lend legitimacy to these men. “These were not cuddly fellows. She spoke with men Ike Michael stone serving sx life sentences for murder, and Johnny Adal, whose nickname was “Mad Dog” for a reason. He' led a group. of paramilitaries suspected of murdering up to {40 Cathois. Adair vies were not in the di, dark past. They took place in the29908 and Adal was only afew yeas Into a. 16-year sentence for “recting terrors Thete was a bref eruption of violence after Moylam’ vst but her pledges to the paral {aris that tele concerns would be discusted In negotiations was cracial. The vist unblocked the proces. Three math later, 09 Good Friday, an i i : agreement was reached that ended the Troubles arly release of republican and loyal prisoners ‘was one ofthe let tall to be hashed xt. ‘Over the next two Years more than 400 “men of wokence” walked fee from the Maze - Pros tant and Cathoi, small-time and notorious. One was the IRAs Patrick Magee, who had bombed the Brighton Grand Hotel dung the Conserv Live party conference in 1984 iling five people ‘Moya apelogised tothe families the Vets ‘of paramiltay violence forthe dstres she knew her meeting would cause, but added that she had “duty tothe people of Northern ireland to use allthe elimate means in y power toensurethe peace proces taken forvart. ‘Toga peace forall ustice would nat be done. ‘vimes would go unpunished. The familes ofthe cts violence would ave to accept that The ‘overwhelming majority of North ten Tish soclety wanted peace, tren atthe price of getting justice, ‘hat peace has held for the most part. few months after the Good Allover the world, inthe wake ofc ‘wars or brutal 1m West Germany, nthe yearsafter the war, an estimated go percent of Federal Ministry of, Justice employees had been members of the Naz party. A good number had been involved i over Seeing legal processes related to the deportations fof Jews. Yet many weteresemployed in the legal system because peace, or atleast stability, was needed so the country could provide a bulwark agalnst Soviet expansionism. ow did survivors and their wider comm nities feel about this absence of justice? At the commemoration tomarkthe sothanniversay of the Red Army’ liberation of Auschwity, | stod Inthe smal crowd atthe runs of crematorium and lstened to Holocaust survivor and Nobel peace prize winner Ele Wiesel read a prayer he hha writen forthe occasion: "God of forgiveness, donot forgive the mur. ‘erers of Jewish cildren here” “Then he described from memory frightened children being forced down the steps to the changing oom and taken into gas chan Friday Agreement was ratified by dictatorships, there bers. “God, merelful God, do not votersinNerthen feand,2bomb re storiesof victims BAY mercy on these whe bad no Sent of nthe market ow of Sy efor rmerey on Jewish children” This ‘Omagh as people went about Ueir shopping Twenty-nine people were kulled. Although the perpetrators, members of a Assdent group called the Real RA, were known, ‘no one has ever been brought to justice for those ‘murders. Peace grows from fale rot and no one wanted an investigation and criminal ial to disturb it bedding down into Ulster’ soll. Only row, a quarter-century later is the British gov fermment convening an ingly. over the word, in the wake of evil ‘wars o brutal dictatorships, there are ‘orles of veins sll walt for jus tice of victims of torre in Greve and Chile under lary dictatorships who walldwe, the street once the juntas are overthrown and see the men whe abused thom stnginealés as though nothing had happened. For the society to make a peacefl transition away from dictatorship there ul be no justice for these it ‘Sometimes war crimes are s0 enormous that there canbe no justice proportionate to the size ofthe crime once peace returns. The Helocaust ould not have happened without the wing par Uicipation of many people, Not just Nazi leaders but rank-and-file 8S camp guaeds, Einsatzgrup en, ordinary Wehrmacht soiiersand many local ‘zens in the territories Germany conguered ‘When so many were involved, what justice was possible forthe victims of Naei murderers: Jews Sit, gay people and others? In Getting way With Murders), David Wilk son documents quite thoroughly the ack ofjustice alter the Holocaust. Among his intrvietes Mary Fulbrook, a professor at University Col. lege London, Fubrook estimates that between 750.000 and a milion people tok active pat in transporting nd murdering six mllion European Jews and nearly 5007000 Sint an 15,000 homo seauals. Some 99 per cent of the perpetrators never faced justice, Many $8 members simply returned to thei lives after the war otherwise reserved and saintly rman was calling down a heavenly Justice on the perpetrators, because earthly jus {ice ha fallen shart. ‘he present crisis in Gaza will ask similar ques tons of those charged with Its resolution. When {he contict ends, and it must, whe wll define what Justice means for erimes that were committed? [ARerthe second word war, the victors revived the International Court of justice ay a forum for cases broght by mations, noindvials, to adjudiete among other things "genocide" crime that had ‘only just been identified asthe scale ofthe Hol ‘cast was revealed. But the term, and the laws concerning tare in ther infancy. Genocide 1 Aiiculto prove and ncrly impossible to get re ‘ompense for. The recent ase bro bythe South ‘Alsian government aginst Israel at the I for the way its prosecting its war against Hamas in (Gaon demonstrates this ‘The court found “plausibility” in South Ai cxsaccuetion ut it did notre ha sae was in breach ofthe genocide convention. ttl no order lemel to end its ncuron Into Gaza, but “prov. sionally” aske ito minimise civilian casualties, asked Israel politicians to retrain from making genocidal statements something mos salisand ‘ast swaths ofthe Jewish diaspora wish fr. Simple ideals rarely survive ther encounter ith the legal and poltca processes necessary to make peace or justice a realty. After the Oslo Accords Were signed in 3993, marking the beg ringofa process that couldhaveledtoatworsate solution, Bill Clinton, Yitzhak Rabin and Yasser [Arafat spoke of peace ofthe brave’ naa peace ‘ol thejus, For not, asthe jastce™ both sides are seeking nt tempered wth mercy, thee an be ‘either peace, not justice, no matter how many niles are marched demanding bot. ‘Michat alr repartee fom “Nether land, rag and Baia. He rites the Bt Rough Dro of try SubstackSHAPED BY THE CITY Refined, reductive and charismatic. Range Rover Evoque. Leading by example.RANGE ROVER faleLabours new friends By George Parker and Jim Pickard Illustration by Barry Blitt Keir Starmer and big business, alove storythe summer of1985,Dale Vince found himself happily lvingin a vari styof veces, among them an ambulance and fie engine Iewasa ‘decade of fear of nuclear war, and Vince had dropped out of schoo! to take LSD and jon a peace-loving convoy of New ge avers. ter visting peace camps to show solidarity with the Campaign for ‘Nuclear Disarmament, the convoy set of towards Stonehenge. The mysterious neolithic monument, thought by many New Ages tobe av eplcentre of Earth energy, la beacon for hippy culture "The convoy never arrived. Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher bbanmed the travellers fom staging fre festival and truncheon ‘welding police intervened. What fllowed, over hours of viele Clashes leading to dozens of Injuries and more than 509 arrests, became know a the tte of the Beal Pitre ofthe bloody Incident shocked the publ For Vince, Ie was 2 formative if rau ‘matic moment. “I slept with ene eye open after that.” he recalled years ater Vince wasaillivinginan old army truck when he fst decided to try his hand asa ‘green entrepreneur, starting fut witha single wind tue bineon a hin Gloucestershire. By the turn of the century, he had Setup a company called Eeotricty and was sling green electric {ty from local land gas and windmills to the Body shop and the Millennium Dome. Soon ater, he branched out into supplying cus tomers homes directly. Eeorcty now has about 204000 customer making founder an estimated fortune of £300m ‘Vince's atitade to hi business success has seemed ambivalent times. “Busines fs asad waste of ie, on the whole, and the free ‘markets an oxymoron he said in an PT Intervie in 3009, Now in his early sixties, he etans his edgy hairstyle an piercings, along ‘ith his activist steak. He remains dedicated to covi onmentl euses and has taken part in direct climate action Jus last year he joined Just Stop Ol protesters ‘na slow walk protest in central London. ‘sting nhs moder ofices i Sco 3 the clammy winter og envelops the Coswolds, he i preparing to [becomea mega donor to ir Keir starmer’s Labour patty. Helsone ofthre ver diferent business aders who have pledged to provide the financial firepower to an oppo ton party that as alays strugaled to match that ofits ‘Conservative opponents. Like Lord David Sainsbury, the Scion ofa British supermarket dynasty and Gary Lane, fn almost unknown South African businessman whose Social conscience was forged during aparthel, Vince Is expected to give upto £5 tothe opposition party belore poling da “Thecoming vote says Vince, "sthe most important of ot iene ‘The ides of being abe to davon big donors from the business word wasn high on Labour’ agenda atthe last electon. Unde its former leader Jeremy Corbyn, the party's 2019 election manifesto romised higher corporate tae and plan to ele 10 percent of the shares in every major company inthe UK - worth £3oobn -and hand them to empleyses over a decade, With busineses fearing the ‘worst, donors took fight. Ast campaigned to win over voters the party was ouspent nt only bythe Torls, but by the much smaller Tiber Democrats. When the results came in, Labour had crashed tots heaviest election defeat since 1955, ‘Having watched succession of chaotic Tory governments preside cover the upheavals of fren, Lie Truss calamitous 2023 budget nd the fallout rom Boris Johison'sinfamous Tuck busines eet, Starmer’s been making a serious pltch for Labour as a party of business. one that’ ft to run the economy. Ie recently pralsed Thatcher, loathed by many on the lf, for unleashing the British people's “naturalentreprencurtallem” when ae was peime "Not everyone is comfortable with the change in abou’ ‘Hom out of years of working-class struggle, the party has ust ally prided itself on keeping its distance from big business and on preserving its nanchal sto the trade union movement dai elections ae fought on the cheap compared with the US, where spending inthe 2020 White House presidential and senate Contests hit about $i4bn. According to Lord Jon Mendelsohn, fundraiser in Tony Blair's government, "The €sgmn eapat the as, election is what you'd spend on a junior Congress seat inthe US: ‘The money Is largely spent on online and billboard advertising, rallies and party election broadeass. Sine then, however, Prime ‘Minister Rishi Sunak’s government has almost doubled the limit fn how muc each party could spend on the coming election to 35mm, considerably falsing the stakes in the race to attract ‘generous donors Suna gambles predicated on the Conservatives extending thelr financial advantage over Labour in election campagns.Starmer's ‘new donors coulé change that ~and play significant roe In deci fing the direction of rat's next goverment, {Labour's love in with business reached its zenthon February xt the Oval in south London, Overlooking the green sward of one a the word's iconic cricket grounds, guest from Goldman Sachs, Google, ‘Labour has monetised business AstraZeneca nd others munched on min-hot dogs and anon ais. "Executives mingled with Starmer and his shadow ministers, inch Ing shadow chancellor Rachel Reeves. Inthe cary stages of what party insiders callthe “smoked salmon and scrambled egoffensve” on business, Starmer and Reeves had to Vsivcompanies at theioes Fut asthe election nears Without ‘well ahead in the pols, business seating» path tothe partys door instead This particular event, which cor at last £3,000 per head, twas sold ou in four hours, evidence of corporate Britains desi to Schimooue withthe men and women who could form the nex cab int. “it's so funny Seeing all these people who used to blow smoke up the arses of the Tries siting here sak ‘one busines attend, Tabour has been quick to adapt. Wes Stresting, the Blarite health spokesman who grew up onan east London ‘ouncilestate but now emboies anew sharp-sied ma ageralism in the party, is often deployed by Starmer 2s star turn at events, Jonathan Reynolds, the business Spokesman, has spent ears fab courtingthe lty-But {tis Reeves, a former Bank of England economist with a self-professed “ironclad fiscal discipline’ who ia the Dear othe effort "Companies are aways being invited to sponsor tables or tickets at party events, where they get to meet members ofthe shadow cabinet” sald one ity lobbyist and former Tory advise wo was ull praise. “Labout hhave monetsed busines engagement na way I've not seen bet Ta his spech, Starmer promised riendship" saying he wanted to work slongalie busines leaders to rebuild Britain. “Your finger prints are on every one of our national missions he said. Reeves Pledge that corporation tx would notriseabove ag percent duringthe next paliament. “This Labour party sees profit not as some thing tobe disdained, but aa mark of business," she tld the group. Thee remarks went down wel withthe business chien the aul nce, Car Enns, clef executive of Semens UK, pralsed the “very rofesional” event Shevaun Haviland, director-general ofthe Bel [Sh Chambers of ammere, seemed delighted by the coming together of Labourand business. "Ie sreally Important thatthe dothat, and realise thats the only way to get economic growth” Revelling in the atmosphere, Starmer invited his audience to recall Corby ime as leader. “Let's cast out minds back to 2039." he sald, "Let's imagine i you were ivited to an event like tis {Labour busines conference, before any ofthe changes to ou party ad taken place. The question ls - would you go? The audience laughed. “There's 2 reason they are called rhetorical questions starmer sl, smlng. Starmer's views on business have evolved since heedlted a small Maraist magazine called Socialist Alternatives Ina 3987 Interview With Tony enn, aero of the ft, Starmer was ul of earnest ques tions abou the fture of trade unions Should Labour become the united party ofthe oppressed, he asked, rather than “Une party of ny one section of the oppressed, for example the working cats"? That year, Starmer was called to the bar. Gang onto co-found the crusading law frm, Doughty Street Chambers, he played 2 leading folein the long-tunning"MelibeT” trl in the 19905 defending xo ‘environmental activist against fastfood giant McDonsl' BY the time he tan fr Labour leader In 2020, Starmer’ policy pledges remained lft of centr, including higher income tax for top farmers and extensive nationalisation of key industries. Most have Since ben dropped. Quizedon is youthful radicalism by the Desert ‘sland Diss radio programme n November 2020, he sad, "erally, 1 started by thinking na ll th answers” Starmer went onto explain that time had taught him how important itis “oold your ideas up tothe light and see they withstand scratiny” Labour’ devastating 2019 electlon defeat was surely ae such smoment for reappraisal Having become leader, Starmer decided tha some of the paty’sklologkal baggage would have tgo wanted twin again. Inthe months that followed hesideined the Jef, pushing Corbyn ou ofthe parliamentary Labour party for syngantisemtim within Labour had been “ramaticaly over ated’, Then Starmer tock over the machinery ofthe pat, ensuring “largely centest sat of candidates forthe upeoming election ‘Under Corbya, unions provided more han half ofthe pary'sfund. {ng That proportion has dropped to 30 pet cent under Starmer, Drvate individuals have stepped up. For some, Labou'sfindliness ‘ith bisines jest another reson tobe septal of the party'die tion. Corbyns shadow chancellor john McDonnell says “There's no rich thing asa fre lunch, Trade wnon funding ison Ue basis oft ‘members and members determine how they want tei unde Usd ‘The verridingconcern about donations and offers of support in kind {srohat are the donors and corporations selling?” That was the question Dale Vince found himself havingto answer last june, when controversy erupted over his donations to both "abou and the green protest group just Sop OF, Sunak pated the finger at Starmer: “It does appear that these eco zealts at Just Stop Olt are waiting Keir Stamer’s energy poi.” Soon Vince was being pon the spot about whether Labour delson ta back ending new {ring licences the North Sea had been influenced bythe £3, ‘worth of donations he'd given the party. Vince denies having any direct mifuenee on Labous policy. ‘Vince otherwise made natura champion for Starme's green prosperity plan’. He has not taken ght for five years and the Forest Groen Rovers fotbal team he ows has been declared by Flas the greenest team in the world. Like Starmer however, Vinee ‘onclided long go that idealism on ts oa x not cnowh. Thoth he intl double down on his support for Just Stop OM, pledging, engagement ina way I've not seen before’ to match funds donated to the group over a 48-hour pig, few Realising the Tories were intent en venga ing the issue, he says te wanted to foc onthe next general election and give generouny to Labour instead. It was binding obvious that weld eached the tnagameot peace protest saya Vince. Iconladed that we coud ‘ot jst stp wth protest You could only doit st the ballot box ‘ine hs met tamer ft once he sy durng ast October party conferencetn Liverpool aihoughhebariown Labour energy poesman Ed Milan for more tha decade He does ot deny the amount he could give beer poling day could come to mn 2 figure toted by party nsldre"t beleve Labour believes in green ono rovt and wil wean of fos fc” be aye“ We've ‘evr tad sige better chance to elect geen gerne iy ‘ew, and they wil be the eens goverment we ave ever ba” Te remained sanguinea freight ago when the Labour keader at bis proponed afbna-yearinvertinent programme in preen poets tolearthan &sbm a year, blaming the Tori for crashing he econ my and making the orga plan unalfordble. Crise wasfurheredenee of Stare Tip-Aoppngbut Vince reterated I upports "1 think Labour are emily ight to ay the econory Tnpzron, Vince exes the zn that comes from spending mich the yar ing ona eaal boa. "Ws Tovel, tok me Back tay rovte of being traveller, with a wood-burning stove and 3 challenges ofthe weather the sik Js goes taht into the City lobbyist and former Tory advise Tr2 ‘th starmer who, despite his past asa egal defender of green act nha drt etre ingests sada cetr by defn ts gant he pevermen fhe day oth then the day apne ek sre tb Stuns ta en chins cy. becuse qe sen pr {Reon arc eoved” nthe coe af ry to ihe a a thesurgtes Waat meth cerned betes ie dr? ‘eran We | ‘ven Aq poten cya G Slt wi trl en eon, {nthe ade ony rung a ec ls rps company. fees este cages os Ra a Store aia experience rem en ered Imo cums plie ote uray Seen ees Sra coneuenes stan He med the Uke yes a It ois ag chk is onan sie sey [samme] went shout he esting, the my he toed the way Be {Soc ie east ugh vem ts psi Tube abcnfudng tea eersne meting with Rees aapetinact dmerntieatanmtsons At ie hepa ‘ioe millon ssn rom ones et Ltr al eft hata sh ted ete fer lng a heres barebones dp, hecame face tof th the elles of Britis budget democracy. “She was possibly the next chancel: lor but she was booking her own train tickets” he says." suppose| ‘Gary Lubuer fist met Starmer at June 2022 business breakfast, 1 was more familia with CBOs and experts around them” Like Vince, Lubes determined tous his wealth to evict Sunak {rom power and give Labour ashot. He sthoroughly “disenchanted with the Conservative government that has run things since rival inthe UK, singling out Brexl as “the biggest oun goal ever ‘He hates the government's current migration policy, which azn eventually deport asylum seekers to Rwanda. ‘Some of his money has gone ino supporting youth employment projects and helping more women win seats in parliament. Bt Lub ‘ers biggest donations are almed at helping tarmer into Downing Stree, He insists doesnot want an honour ora a what todo. "Thaven really gt any advice tog headmits he's relieved that Corby fs gone ‘Healioadmitstoa profound urgeto get dof he money at esta signicant amount fit, "Businesspeople are evarted forhard were and rik taking but there comes a point where the accumalation of 1 thee oes, with ees of wealth feels abit out of kit” Labner says. “Lots of people work hard - doctors, nurses, teachers and soon. So yes, 1 o fee! uncom fortable, Or did dont now because im giviag eal aay.” He oo hhasmot dened that by poling day be willhaveglven sin to about. Suns decision toralse the campaign spending cap to £asmn was seen by Labour asa clea attempt to seek financial advantage 2 the next election. m 2049, Labour under Corbyn ralsed 1am fo Is be able to spet ‘campaigns three mesa donors alone are set o pledge in excess of at this time round, though more wl be needed One tarmer ally was bullsh tat Sunak’s plan to tthe playing eld in hs party’ favour would not succeed "We will bableto spend up tothe Unit [No question about it” The struggle betwcen the parties to win business's affection rupted during last years Labour conference, Keen to brandish its new-found success wit corporate lal the opposition pary decided to announce + British Infrastructure Council, endorsed by some of the most powerful CEO names in the country Within 445 minutes ofs draft press release being cfeculted, the Conse aves were ina state of fury. Chancellor Jeremy tfunt became Involved ina high-Level campaign to urge them to take their names off what he regarded as a partisan stunt. Downing Street's bus: nes adviser Franck Petites,» former Morgan Stanley executive ‘appointed by Sunalclast Apel wasassigned exert pressure on the CEOs ‘Suddenly people were getting falrty agressive dj WhatsApp messages” said one of those onthe recelvng end from Downing Street. “Fist fom the chancellor's operation, then Number 20. It Was an Interesting tert of nerve of who could be swayed. ‘was tling abot the succes Labour has had in building relations with business” Another sald They were on the warpath. They sd that anyone signing up was makinga erect ptticalstatoment. labour claims that people “felt threatened Blackstone and Aviva pulled out, but Reeves dl eventually set up te body with host ofthe orignal bigname,nchudingleaders from Lloyds, Santander and HSBC. Petits declined to comment. What ws ‘notin doubt, was thatthe Tries had been rattled, Of Labour's three mega donors, the one with the ‘deepest pockets the man some reer to as "Big Dave Thetitlebsits the fi Britsh philanthropist In hisorytohave donated £3bn to charitable cases buts comically at odds withthe appearance ofthis ‘unassuming 85-year-old. Lord David Sainsbury sar from a household name, even i most ar familiar withthe supermarket dynasty he hails from. He ha shy modest ‘manner and appearance that isles lordly and more “provincial tore ‘manage’ ne words of one columnist Infact, he wa the company’ finance director blor rising to chairman 3992 Sainsbury, who dectind tobe iteviewed for thisarile,wasjust 26 wen he erited avast shareholding the company founded in 869 by his great great grandfather Fromaneary age, he established himself asa prominent donor to an aray of causes: One associat describes Sainebury as someone who ls interested in good things rather than the ood life’ He joined the Labour party inthe 19605, later detecting othe newly founded Soclal Democratic party, aghast, at actions of mlitant lftwingrs in the early 1985. was not unl 1g96that,impresed by Tony Bla, hee-emenged asa Labour donot. Under Bl, Sansbury's daughter Fran Perrin, acted as an adviser in Downing Stret(Perin became Labour big est evr female donor lat year with a £amn git). Sainsbury gota inthe House of Lords and became Labour's selence minerPost-Blar he drifted away from the party again, giving £8mn to he ant-Brexit Lib Dems a the 2019 cletion, one ofthe biggest ‘donations in British poitieal history. It was when Starmer dragged Labour back towards the poltical centre ground that Salnsbury reappeared on the party lt of most generous donors, According todas fom the Electoral Commission, hehasaltendy given Labour smn since lat 2002 1d up to the limit’ Thereturn of coup or arms Salnabury ia cotroveria gre with abouts Ini MP ls sasciation with Rae furthers fhe suspicion tha starmer could take the party back tothe New Labour es, when prominent abint figure Peter Mandelson amo led he wat nency rene boa pape set thy ich ab lng es they py ee aes ‘Starner ha recently epee Mandelson quote, but he wll ot vat to repeat the lobbying scandals that blighted New Labour. In {997 Hae personaly inlervened to scare an exemption for Forel One trom tobacco advertising ban he sports bss Berle Bae Stone had recent given the party Em. And 2006, ashy, Yhowatsclene miner tthe te, had spooge fruit tall het sen vl ceva that be had le {hearty arm Conservative ucasingefltsinrecet yar ave rn crutinyinpacla the eelston hat seco adv ‘oryboardefmsjor Tory donors won pretzel aces wth senor ly ing £250,000 othe party forte pile person charge wih welling Labour dors hie feed All, aman entrepreneur and ay rs Poe oe renee COE Een) campaigner sud by colleagues to “work day and night” to bring in ‘ew benefactors. Hes massively strcton who we do and dont take lnations trom.” says one Labour insider, "We have the luxury of ‘ot having to take donations from everyone. If they become high talntenance, we dont take thelr mney ‘Looking ahead, corporate Britain clearly hoping that its engage sent with Starmer wil shape what eis eat fs the sometimes opaque business agenda ofa prospective Labour government. Some In the City fear that, despt Drotestations to the contrary, a Prime Minister Sart wil be forced to raise thelr taxes to fund cash-strapped public services. Labour ie already plana a tax aid on private equty bosses and inon-dom” Ela is said by colleagues to be Starmer ally on Labour’; fundraising success ‘worsied that Starmer has not done enough to clearly set out his Mallon busness tastes, “Tony thinks that alt of people are cory. {ngupto Labour not knowing exacty what they are cosyng up ty sald one colleague, ‘What will business want - and shoul Labour cars? Matt Wrack, Who leads the Fire Brigades Union sums up a view widely held mong those on the lft when he says that Starmer should be more Concerned with edresig imbalances nthe workplace by restoring trade union rights.“We don't need another government pandering to corporate interests” he says, Not surprisingly, Lubner belloves the interests of businesses and workers don't have to be matwally exci: "Tat want a etter Bran with socal justice and young people at the hel.” By George Parker isthe FT politcal editor JimPlckards the Fs deputy poll eator1 wasfistintroducedto Robert Mapplethorpe’ work by the stylist Sine ex wh eputed me on the tna on rent on torneo bi {came fromavery shored childhood chin tackroe S7 these pers of Black men never seen before twas aero me Iteparted my magislon and opened upa whole wort ay worl hat {dnt now exsted,Sappletorpe’ wrk became que persoal tome {could sce ysl elected some oe subjects he case potogrsph ‘That ally Deana proces of my relationship wih myself gay man ve been workinginmagazins ince wat 16 yeas ldo always see things in two tke double page pread wheter oid army oro fod contrast Tha ow ace the word When we wel to adda Rope spllery in Pais to work on this show, we had all of Mapplethorpe's images Spread ot, and eked around the ypae and allo siden just fel ke they needed tobe presented a pairings. There are someimagesthat flow together, some that ght against each other hink tha something hat runsthrough th exhibition Serenity and chaos, yin apd yang qulet and loud, love contrasts love things that make you think we don ive ina perfect world What love about his works that expands our definitions of beauty, of what we se asbeautifl. Mapplethorpe wasableto capture fein allt diferet, beautiful complex shades, ftom irae to strong to easy to taunerving Its atone character. Unt doe emotion. isi nvall is varied, rary, eautfl trations.PREVIOUS PAGES {Usa Lyon 1082 ‘rnold Schwarzenneger. 1976 ove the curtain electing tha pleats of the drew. the deo of ‘musculature and all the ines on Schwarzenegger and then this increge dre that eecrsto ‘cho the nes of is body. Ones ‘ezentayauch feminine ture, btext the picture of Arete Schwarzenegger tkos on a whole Siferont meaning: Re sbowt power nd thesttength ofthe bed hin Ine gota serge of humour tot too. have been a fasion editor for 30 yar, and wae very import formein this exhibion thet thre were fehion elements. Theres utureand sory an fra and prssent | ove hs fashion mages because theyre not he nm etl reat his febon abject Ike porvat subjects. You now, sometimes Ws simple athe tutan that Arid 2 anding beside, nat to this inceable onrasting rages stengt trough the body tse rung lothing as armour Setfportrats, 1980 Forme this sll porrait series is about what canbe defined ae garetes and the ai ors the vuinerabity of aman whos able to face tho wold Ihe the image on tho ight they 8? Whet realy intrest me about this that here was atime when the wenes of what was accu were so iid: the row we vein non biary tes, aber the kee of masculine a Feminine erocing ever ay lowe thee two ages together Its almost ke yn and yang: the same man bu ite leo two diferent faces, two ways the sare man can be. You stop auto the haute youre supposed to bestrong and boisterous and face the word ‘most men are the picture onthe fhe You stort of wth aman nb leathers, the archery ofthe 19708 a macho man and ends up With amost anew romante ies ofFranLobowl, 1980 letheulimate htlectua and a lethe ulate muse love the ie that they were bath ahotosrphed gaia black and theyre both wy, but they total flerent personalities. esbala is uminous the muse ew luminous. And Fran is ‘think san stitial thre the tgarte, the look on hee face. Think that common rmiconcertion prople make about Mapplethorpe that he was one thing people ust think about tha lack Bool hi 1986 butthe works so diverse, Lock at the sen el Rosselines portraits 20 detest, Thee 90 Foch humanity in bis porrat “hats what real ke,‘Altar Butler, 1080 Alot of Mappltharpes werklssbout that idea of whats conventionaly beautiful veraus what soon oe not beaut Te curve of pine not usually lasted as beau but Ishere. when thik ofthe curve of ‘spine assocteit wth ness wih spinal probleme. You putt next toanathetioman, who typically represents powet and svength snd toopther you can abe tht theres beauty in bath. Theres beauty inthe cau of sine snd he cae of thiserabe state body. Inhitme. Meppethorpe reinterpreted and questioned whet wethink of beaut What he Sow onthe tects of New York, hat he a inthe cubs of New “othe people he met he rousht thm al nto stu and elevated Intoa space of elasscsm That what have done too. ve tied o get the fastion adustiy toemace aferen types of benuty, whether ewe about shape 2 a9¢ oF eiglous background at fealty, Breaking the own of what Is beaut oople wanted to soe themselves reflected, Growing ub. ope dent see themsaives Feflected in cise porate orin fashion. Anditsa power hing then poople see themaawes ae canrelte“Robert Mapplethorpe curaedby BiwandEnnafl'sat Thaddeus Ropar’ Pri Mari gallery fom March2-April6 204¢ an TIA Full. of lifeInsider “Tie usar FT Weekend Magazine tites Tim Hayward Noodle love in Nottingham IW started when I found myself staring at a _Butthen thought (shoul never review alone {abletopinaresiaurantin Nottingham. Fdsecently 1 think too much), ts nt jus the frnire, read Fiteryorid by Kyle Chayka, which, among, it? The “great wave” of ramen is think, the frst international food trend thats happened via this mechanism, French culsine originally achieved soba dominance via porpattie French chefs or ‘media. Desga tends no longer spread organi--_Visitorsto France. allan food spread with ia «aly, but spring up apparently spontaneous the {ole vector of connection beg a proprietor ool ‘nought follow the right social media accounts This explains why ll the funiture and ftings ston. People passing cooking hand-to-hi Everday Feo nan voi ie Rae pon a) of plywood with exposed ed obal spread in almost perfec lockstep with ie ‘would cll that "honouring te truth o Interet, without physi contact and with many inl, but a restaurant content ts fs involved The frst internet belonging. think of eas Hackney Mil bal cuisine? Quite pesibiyAppetitos The chef here s Fete Hewitt, a finalist in Masterchef 2015 ‘who's gone on via a popular food truck, to open a permanent “ramen and smal plates spot’ I's very good thing he has. ‘Weare by now used to the idea ofa sina plate of house pickles and ferments that it might pass without comment, a ‘mechanical preliminary Uke the ead roll ona side plate, pra crackers or stack of poppadoms, but these were litle Jewels of wonder, aering you to Hewitt attention to deal. sharply ‘inegared shredded daikon, subly and simply Iacto fermented. farot chunks, cubes of turnip wih a strong sis scent and sles of mushroom part brased in soy. Agentine palate fer have ways worried that a never bea truly great writer unless could find my higher purpose, some grand Wea towhich Lcoukl dedicate est of my fe 1¢hink may have come across itn analleyway in Nottagham. There Js thing with pork belly, particularly when braised, where you can get neuroialy focused othe transitions between the ayers, the precise pons where meat becomes at ‘fat becomes si, With infernal kil Heit has tendered the ete piece al strata toasingle sublime texture, before slapping, {tina pillow of bao bun and springing it wth peanut powder. The ied radish ake, Tconfdently pede, sgoingto become ‘one ofthe great delivery vectors of our ag. is made of rated daikon feted into the size and shape ofa small bar of choc late and deep fred. Think fit asa hash brown without the US imperialism, It tastes of very il but is textaraly ‘harming and operates structurally Ikea pallet on a fori spreading the payload of pickled shiitake, powdered Kimchi, 3 ‘weg yolk and an ample duvet of parmesan, makingiteaser topost securely into themmouth, Ia alone, Ivasdeighted ad set freeto make ite choo choo tala noses ase approached ry lips Is ich stu, but emotionally snvolving There are ie olferings on the main amen menu. One veg ‘one vegan amb base tan an, achicken an dack soy and {princely gaiclashed tonkos | conforming your pres pstons selected the las on the principle that, pork sod, ‘hen pork collar and prk bellyina pork broth would automat tallybe wonderful Abit ikea magazine partwork which, "over 25 loses, willenableyouto bull hisspectacular whole pig you ‘an display to impress your family an rend” ‘he broth was well Judged. cutback with chicken stock to avoid excessive richness but crucially, ony just succeeding The thin noodles hada positive popto them, and licks of burnt tarlicoll were suficient to threaten lca seabird populations The onsemegg was so preterntrally fadgy wae dicot to eat witha combination of chopticks and a oyfl etn (in passing, ‘an we declare a moratorium on the synecdchicl tse of the ‘word “bowl” In menus. Good ramen lot “a great bow any ‘ore than blanquete de veau is "a teri pate™) ‘The service was relaxed, atentive and Knowledgeable, 9 1 asked my iter ifthe restarant was named after Sly andthe Family Stone’ joyous 1968 anthem of world peace and equa: ly. He looked confused and patiently explained that, no, twas about, “Y’know, people. Everyday people” ITooked around the ‘oom ied with a heartening mishmash of mums with push ‘has, couples on dates, Japanese students and a Bloke with ‘plug earring, beard and tattoos thinking far to hard about foodie consistency, and I siddenly thought, yknow what? the nternet capable of distributing noodle-based love den ‘ocratieally, to all the people ofthe werld, well surely that can ‘nly be a wonderful berating thing, Everybody was having a trandtime andthat’s exacly what st and family Were on about So there Isat lke a contemporary Dr Johnson, wondering fot that there mus a ramen restaurant in Nottingham, but the ‘mechansmby which it got there and thank goodness how ver, ‘ery well Heit and his crew are doing Bad auimapward TEND TOPE ‘eg hecnrdarepceakOxtailand chickpea stew Wewanteda good hearty soup forour bakery’ lunch men, something filing and rich that ean ‘esuecour and comfort to our suestsona grey midday without Easing food Induced coma, Julia, our executiveche, reminded usofthe oxtallsoup we wsedto serve when wejust opened, which wwe loved but somehow stopped taking and then forgo all bout "Weconaider ourelvestobe quite organized, especialy when comes torecipes butthlsone was nowhere tobe found, But welenew the Ingredients and we remembered the flavours andthe fet ol the dish 30 Iewasonlyamater of sting the rats right tohit that exact taste. stock mote than a fetal Itismich easier writings recipe For something new than ryngto cape anelsive dst ves 9 cur memry. at we gotthere theendand here its, for your ‘wintertime pleasure, andas alte Insurance policy for us against, Tesingthis recipe agai, "Thissoupisatreasre trove ofco weather delights: tangy, Creamy chickpeas, sweet is ofearot, sik soft spinach and lender meat suspended inthe perfectly spied brat, made thick an ich by allthe marow and cllagen inthe oxtail act ‘hats synonymous with chs orera despite being very rich and extremely delicious ‘You cam pick thereat off the bone and returnittathe soup for Amore elegant presentation, but ‘we strongly recommend serving theextal pices whole Abigpast ofthe pleasuretspleking the meat off with you fingers By lamar Sralvich Recipe by Sant Packer @ @honeyandeo TOSERVES AS AWEARTY DINNER Selo abeat bo) aoa ced ticks eerie aterabaly hetpos fom oi) alr sla (about eg weaned ana 300g) pele ard diced onto about 5000) Fevled and ood (9009) opera {is wi take about ‘ahora S.A ha ees youn tosane 2sPHOTO LONDON NINA ouca 3 16-19 302 | nouse : e “ PREVIEW DAY 15 MAY E Pe TICKETS ON SALE NOW , mises ela io photolondon.org ; Cee aur) . 4 7 i ce ST BELMOND | sdat pair well witha coat of living isis? Woks Uke the UK {sgoing ith the now alcoholic option. The lates report fromm the dstribitr Liberty Wines announced tht, by volume, wine falesat restaurants, hotels, pubs and bars aredown percent since2019 Nosurpese there, not least de tthe series of massive setbacks the indus tryhasfaced over the pas five year, froma pandemic to nal biting duty thea Butatthudes towards denn, have changed too, especially among. the younger generalions should know. Asa wine profes slona, essen how much dining hs changed among my millennial and Gon 2 peers. For 3 time, get ting blackout drunk atleast two nights a week: (hile bing a our sober friends about thet nck of Partepation) seemed an nexora ble fixtare of ou social calendars, ‘But young people are Increasingly recognising this od way of drink Ing fr what it quite often was an insidious coping mechanism, thinly veiled 25 2 good tne Placingthe fare oftheindustey In the shaky hands of this gener ation’s drinking habits (or lack thereof) sa great source of anxiety for ine profesional The concern wasaddresodatapressbreing or Wine trade exhibition Vinexpo Fars 2022, ata presentation entitled "rhe Battle ofthe Generationsin the UK revealed that combined, Gen ‘Zand milennals only make up 26 percent of wine drinkers (they rep Fesentaround 4oper cent of theta ‘UK population. twassqueaky-bum time for Vinexpo attendees; when were dead and buried, who wil be arin to bal the claret? But here'the thing While young people mightbedtinkinglesstheyte tainly spending more. Genz and illenntals male up 34 per cent Hannah Crosbie Why GenZ ditched the plonk ano recommends WINES POPULARWITH THE YOUTH tite Bots Nod wes. £20 +2020 domaine fpmayan twa, “dupa och Sogn NV Westnet Peep Eran sn havou Blane Gasentnoets Tre Wrist xchange gay Po. Racal of total spend offpremises (wine drunk at home, that Is) and about 50 per cent of total on-premise pend (wine drama restaurants and wine bars). They arealso“happy tesspend more on 3 bottle of wine than Boomers noted Wine intel sence COO Richard Halstead. Tvescenalthetastingevents trun bow millnnials snd Gen 2 ers a ‘more than happy to splash out ona {Easbottleatawineshop, behaviour some trace to changing consumer patterns during the Covi lock ovens, “People would come In and sy, Thave nothingelseto spend my ey on” recalls Oliver Dibbe two worked atthe north Londen twine shop Gnarly Vines during the pander, But the interesting thi twas, where people were spen a£10 on s bottle before Covid and £25 during, the same people dit {gobackto £20 0neclackdown ited ‘They saw what kind of quality and eee ‘and then they never went Bock They wanted to know about exact who was making the wine ‘This trend has conte beyond 1 boutique bottle shops. Freddy Balmer, wine buyer at The Wine Soclety, tld me that, “they ike to feel theyte buying more than just a bot of lgui they want to know about a producer, where the wine comes from and what makes spe fal There’ also areal millennial desire fr traceability, people want tek whether ead nk comes from, and they'te oll to pay more because they deetn to be better quality For example, Gen Z got to know Patrick Bout small boutique producer based Inthe Auvergne through the viral TV doc-setes Puck, Thats Delius, presented by the American rapper/ SSopemeseineng cot ‘nancehseonsom chaste Acton Bronson. App ttefortherumlbutenergetc wines he produced exceeded the suppl Drinkers connected with Boujus messy kitchen, his at-the-table assemblage, hi intimate, dimly Mt cellar. Now, on most online etal teste wines atelablledas Patrik Bouju’ rather than Domaine La Boheme, his business. We not necessarily that young peoplearegoingout wth the goal of Spending more on wine, it's thatthe Wine they want to drink often costs ‘more, "Idon'ttreat wine aa throw aay thing any more," says Ebony ‘Trott, a 26-year-old who works in lafucecr marketing (and ia fa far face at my tastings)“ like to joy what m drinking. andi that hhappens tobe a £30 bottle of is lng then thats what is "Toa degree, the younger gener: ations fel abit senchanted with cheaper wine because the industry hhastadabitofarace tothe batorn for along time" says Bulmer. "And the ukimate sacrifice due to that hasbeen quality: Older generations have been concerned with price per bottle Being lov. but) millennial and Gen Zhave grownup ta be abit Sceptiaofthings beingunder acer tain price, they know good quality below a certain price point le very hard to achieve" So will we be seeing more retal ersreplacingthe classic epons with {he mere ofthe-al sys favoured Dbya younger market? would mean stocking more chilable reds suchas {es not necessarily that young people are going out with the goal of spending moreon ine, i’sthat the wine they want to drink often costs more Austrian zweigeltand youthful beau Jolas, perhaps a singe-vineyard Fiesling ora Low intervention bur ‘rundy-and, ofcourse that trendiest, of styles orange wine. The Wine Society ow Its Astro unay -a.£26 Australian pink ie sade In the trendy pét-nat style “Idon't buy it because i's cool, 1 bought it because It's the most consistently good pétnat I've ever tasted” says Bulmer. "Asa buyer, want to respond toa market where Young drinkers are much more Adventurous, but they still want to drink bordeaux, stil want to drink the talian class ~ they just want thebestexamples ofthe, with that story behind every battle” 2 lot of people working inthe Industy call this trend “drinking Jess but drinkingbeter but think there's something deeper at play hore-aphenomenon 'matempsing tocoinae"gastronomic asda ‘ight now: for many younger people, docs fee ke therein mich ofa future to save for, even for middle Income milena certain not forGenz, many of whom feltheyve ten gcd tothe starting black, ‘Many young professionals have resigned themselves to the idea {hey likly rent property fr their ‘whol ives, so why not spend what Spare money they have on what ‘makes them fel good now? Every ‘ne needs hobby, and for many of those ving in big tes that hobby haa become food and wine. “Sure, saving £100 on wine month might Save me £1,200 a year, but thats a frop inthe ocean compared with ‘what 1 nee! ora hou ‘ays lly Ford, ‘and wine hobbyist. sappy tosaciie my savings to get more enjoyment out of life ‘What wine represents oF young people has shifted dramatically. or many, I has moved from some: thing necked fast to get drunk to anemblem of thoughtful consump: tion ~ an expensive habit that can bbe dioplayed on sckl med ne fof house o car I also probably ‘ocaincence that when posted a callout on sot sedi asking for ‘ny Youngtollowersfavouritewines, allot them were reay-to-dinkand ‘homore than afew years old. These te wines sold withthe intention of ‘Consumption nthe next fe yeas, dexigned tobe enjoyedinthecarent ‘moment. Why buy en primeur when the world fs burang? Hannah Cove isa nine writer ‘and broadcaster rom Enough Jancis Robison isaay Advertise alongside the world’s finest writers in Food & Drink FTWeekendpiers aed Looking to build your UK property portfolio? Get ahead of the market with early access to UK properties including Buy-to-lets, HMOs, Holiday lets, and STLs. Call'+44 (0) 333 123.0320 PIANC E eee ere Yi stds) AU GTR ORM Cee ewe aol el a Cea rae Cau tect ren ee acerca cy ee Renee ect casa eee a hectare teas ctr Tr rma zoTheTrend Bun lov Cream-filled fastelavnsboller have long beena Danish fixture. Now they've become astatus symbol for the Instagram era_ FastelavnhasalwaysbeenabigdeainDenmar, esa festival that used to mark the begining of the Lent period of fasting, back when Denmark was a Catholic country. Catholicism didnt stick, but the holiday did For mat ofits more recent Iistor; thasbeen anoccasionforchildren They dressup, havea party and hia pfata shaped ike abate) whichonce yon aime contained alive fat rather than sweets. Another feature of fast lavn the makingand eating ofa particular kind of pastry known asa fastelavnsblle. ‘All the Nordie countries have a sweet treat they eat at this time of year In Sweden there’ seme, cardamom bunt with whipped cream Norway, Finlandandlcelandeachhavethelr own ream buns too, But in recent years, something hha happened with fastelarnsber (oe plural offatelavasbolle)in Denmark tharson another level atogether.| wasn town the weekend of fstelavn. Every baker in the ety ad spent the past few weeks Inthe trenches, working long, hard hours to By lmagen West Knights smecet a near-insatiable demand. Imagine i hot ‘ress buns suddenly became the must-have, bbegsteal-or-borrow items, and you get close to ‘what witnessed. "Can we all tamass hysteria? Tehink we can” one bake told me Fastolaensboller have been around since at least the 3th century. The earliest reference to thebunsisthought tabe in apaiting onthe wall fofachurch antoutsideSkive, atown some x0ckm rorth-west of Aarhus, in which the disciples sit before a able laden with rod-shaped buns atthe Last Supper. These day, there ae two types of ‘bun, Theonesclosest their medieval ancestors arerow known as"gammeldags":round, plow) ‘buns fled with eream, remonce (a utter and sugar mixture) anda fvoured jam, often black ‘currant and usually topped witha chocolate flue. Thenthere are the laminated type, which feature the same ingredients but without the choc late glaze, and in acrossant-style dough. ‘used tobe that people would bake garnmeld- ags buns at home, or buy some from the local bakery to take to school. Then in 202 eve rythlng changed. A new generation of artisan Dakeres had opened in the city over the decade Dror. Places like Juno, alice and Hart applied the city’ famous cooking ethos to baked goods ‘This was the kindling. The spark was Covi, Tn 2022, Denmark was in fll lockdown for the frst time during fastlavn. Bakeries were ‘one of very few businesses that were allowed to ‘operate. Buying buns became almost the only entertalnmentavallablenstagram wassuddenly awash with psts about the photogenic fastlarns boler on offer at various bakeries. And 0 0 ‘end began ‘Whereas once fastelavnsboller might bein “shops in the week leading upto Shrove Tuesday, row you can get them from early January. Polk ‘ken, one of Denmark’ bigest newspapers runs afastlavasbollereview each yea. There are over {Gojo00 posts on Instagram tagged “astelavas bolle many ofthem featuring people buying and rating Copenhagen’ buns in categories lke tase,appearance andtexture, laborstenew shapesand favours emerge and vie for the dys attention, Priceshave leapt. A supermarket fasteavsbolle ‘might sell for 2 couple of pounds tops, but art Sanbakeriesare now ellingelevated versions for ‘dose to £7 Queues snake around the block atthe ‘buaiest bakeries, and pre-orders are necessary to guaranteegetinga bun belore they sellout became like a huge competition, about who was making them better, whe was making more. People went crazy about it one Copenhagen bakertold me. Thetrend isnot particulary wide- spread. Infact, ithas made Copenhagen a subject ‘of derision elsewhere in the county. A local TV ation in Jutand did an online poll where only §3per cent of people said they'd wantto pay mare than DKr36 (about £4) fora fastelarnsbole. “the tend has been sustained beyond Covid because, even outside of lockdown, January and February are cold, ralny, windy months in Copenhagen. People need something joyful. “Everybody alwayssaysthey goon adietin Jan ary and Fn ike, you don’t want oon adict in January in Denmark, you wanna eat cake” sys ‘Trine Hahnemann, the founder of the bakery Hahnemann Kekken, ‘A the bakeries, invention i the ame of the ‘game, tothe extent that todays fastelavasboller are sometimes unrecognisable as te original Item. Mascarpone has overtaken cream, andthe jams now come in every favour, fom apple to yur. As long asi isa pastry with cream and Someind of jam element, it's fastlavnsbole, ‘many of the bakeries seem to have decided. Not everyone agres. “Tim being really conser ative, but dont Uke when they start putting all kinds of weird things in, like pistachio and Iiquorice’ Hahnemann says. "The buns have become sitociated with a oer- tala Kind of Copenhagen hipster, according to two anonymous bakery workers (Let'scallthem Peter and Jens) who rum an Tastagram meme account - @astelavnsbollememes~ dedicated to fastelaynsbolle mania. They started their account in 2022, poking fun at the kind of cus- tomer who viewed getting buns from the most hyped bakeriesasastatussymbol. Memeson the pgeinchude the famous image of Al Pacino fom. ‘Scarface, his face covered in white powder, with fastclavnsboller on the table instead of cocaine "These hipsters aceordingto Peter, "Uke dink. ing natural wines, wear Salomon shoes, super tiny hat pu pall the right things on Instagram, and are willing to pay those kind of prices. And peopleare not justgoingto have one ortwo buns Ina season, They having dozens, “ivsbasicaly Hike Pokémon; you've got wo cok lect them all? Jens says thas become a social contest, badge of honour. How many buns ean ‘you be bothered to wait and pay fr? 9 fest two astelavnsboller ‘were from Hart Bagerl, 2 bakery with seven shops around the city. They were a ‘gammeldags anda laminated ‘ne: crofesant dough filled ‘withvanilla mascarpone cream, witha liveoil 2nd pasion rultcurd inside and faked almonds fm the top. The former was dense but sft and ‘lly favoured, a gentle and soothing sot of pleasure like imagine cows mustfcelwhen they, Chew cud. The later was crunchy, tangy and sweet and made a gratifyingly decadent mess ‘when Tate it. They were very good buns My third, fourth and ith buns Thad a part of 1 tasting event at Perron, a bakery in Copen- hagen’s BaneGaarden development. This i= something Perron decided todo to formalise 2 proces that people were already doing on social ‘media: critiquing and ranking the buns. 1 was given three laminated buns i differen favours (blackcurrant, coffe and chocolate, bergamot and salted caramel) and ascorecardto rate them tof five in various categorie, "duly filed out my card, giving scores between ‘sand 5, and then looked around at what other fustomers were doing and realised T was not taking this nearyas seriously asthe Danes were [watched one woman atthe next table writes" inthe bax for the Blackcurrant bun's taste with: cut batting an eyelid. ‘But we were inthe amateur league. poke to Christel Pi, a pastry chef who, until recently, ‘worked onthe breakfast show Good Morning Den: Inark who does a fastlavnsbolle review on her Instagram page every yeat. Todo ths, she vss 25 bakeries n Copenhagen and buys sybuns in & Singleday, spending over €200 oer own money onthem ’Atthe weekend, tit the pavement, tose the Inype in action. 1 passed dozens of people hold Ing bakery boxes thelr loot secured. L arrived at Andersen at midday. Andersen Isa Japa ‘ese-inflected bakery In nlands Beye, a buszy neighboutood in the south of the city that was fone ofthe first bakeries to produce “luxury” Fastelavnaboller There were about 30 people fa the queue. As Iwate, [spoke to oder customCopenhagen's quirkiest fastelavnsboller XattentTenden at Hahnemann Ketter Thiele probably the most “whimels! bun that was on fern (Copenhagen his yer. Hahnemanns Kotten played onthe gruesome, long abandoned ‘ctin bare” pinta actton and made achoux bun inthe shape of bare with blood orange jam inside, and a ‘catmade out of mascarpone cream peeking cutof the top. citrus curd at Cakenhagen ‘Chistl Pi lcked tis asthe ‘most surprising bun she ate on her ‘tend tour, party because the lemon cued isan uncial lng, but ‘suo because of where tear om ‘the beter ina Copennagens ‘theme parkin the mide of town, Teo “would never usaly 90, into Cakanhapen 8 very tours ‘he ei. I would never have ‘xpectad ito be so geod” ‘Apploand yunsatteckerbeer Another fasninurabote tha stands ‘ut forts unique design as well {ett vente four combination. ‘Allthefastlonsbole st thie ‘teri bakery are choux bare ‘with dies made of erm ecorting the tops anda dallop ‘favoured jamin he mie. ‘all or ane day ony, ‘on January this spec ‘axtelavncbolla marked the highly Unusual event ofthe Dish queen bdleating the tone inorder ‘wallow er so, King Frederik X, totake over had a plum am ‘and white chocolat eam inside, ‘nda golden chocolate crown exignon to. Fastolavrabotor a1 Bio ‘The ones at Boca dont even Took ike» faeteinbole- more toa perk pie in sau, ora round ‘ol ehoxwe Se toi and urns ‘out otto be made of choc, ‘or pork, but ered brioche flfed ull creme diplomat ‘nd salted cova xs Agroupof friends intholrtwentieslaughed in my face when asked if these were thei fist buns ofthe year. They dia’t even know how many they've had, or fel too embarrassed to tell me. {Tent fora rhubarb bun, shaped like an open smolluse with an oyster of cream pokingout. ‘NextwasJuno,another wildly popular bakery InabaclstrectofOsterbro. Thisyear, they redoing, ‘one banana andone blackcurrant asteavnsbolle: [At aspm, thee were at least 60 people wal {ng The duo in front of me had eaten elght buns between them this season andtold ‘me they would be getting a lath today By this point in the day the Jn Narrebro at apm, there was 2 sgn im the window eaying they wweresaldout This often happens, and has been the source of fetion In the ety in stark opposition tothe ‘measured way Danes usually behave in public, ‘customers have been known to gt irate a ery ers when they arrive too at fora bun This was ‘one reason Peter and Jens started their meme Sccount, to ven frustration at angry customers. (One bakery, Alice, weat so far as to post on Ins- tagam in 2022 asking customers to understand that they could not simply "make more” buns to sect demand. “really saw adult people behaving like seven- year-old kids not geting lollipop," a worker at {nother popular bakery tame. “They wereliter allyscreamingat the front of house ike, cant you Jstincrease the preducton” Fer Danes wholove ‘ake thefastelavnsbolle craze has been aninter- ‘sting exercise incoming up against the materia realities of how their pastries are made. for myself why they can’ just make more. At 3am, Larrived ata bakery’s main shop and production space, to join thet troops inthe war on dough. ‘When arsved therewerejusttwo bakers there, Including the baker's creative director “ll the buns as well as the other pastries the bakery produces, had been proving overnight, fr slighty diferent lengths of time. You doo want §5000 kems (yes, reall) ready to go in the oven tthe same moment. And each ype of pastry has ‘window of deal proving ime. The gammeldags ‘ned to prove for three hours, and then go nthe ‘ven within 45 minutes after that. Certain items «canbake together and others cant Some pastries ‘an ony go in certain ovens. At this stage of the ‘ay, it was about playing wha the reative dire: tor referred to as “oven Tetris 1 got to work helping one ofthe bakers with cggerashing te fastelavasboller before they went Inthe oven, which isdone singavaporiser gun loaded with liquised egy. At 4am, more bakers arrived, including a mild-mannered Swiss man who would be overseeing production. On busy ‘ays, the other bakers allow him to play Toad, Insane techno in one ofthe larger production Inthehourbefore thefirstdelivery ‘wind was blowing right through ‘me, 1 didnot fee strong enough at6.goam, themood. to put myself through it By the inthebakerywas timet gt to Andersen & Maillard halfwaybetween ahospitalandarave ' dificulty with fastelavnsboller, {learnt during the course of this morning, is that they are mad oftwo primary ingredients pastryand ‘ream. Pastry shouldn't go inthe fridge, and ream shouldnt really be out oft. Pastries are, ‘of course, warm when they come out ofthe oven, ‘which is death t cream, Is live-wie perfor. mance to put these things together at eae ‘By sam there were 40 many people in the ‘building that Iwas atively in the way. Thebakers moved as asingle ‘organism, There was litte need to tale they had got this down to ‘fine art over the season. I was ‘put to work extracting the lami- ‘ated fatelavnboller from their Dakingtrays, and preparingthem to billed with jam, then cram, thentopped withmascarpone and dusted with cing sugar. At competion, each de teste and beautiful bun has had perhaps a dozen people's attention. There were atleast thousand ‘ans in my sighiline at any given Ue. i the hour leading upto the first delivery {othe shops at 6.50am, the atmosphere inthe bakery was halfway between a hospital and a rave, thanks tothe soundtrack which had now ‘segued into happy hardcore remixes of Disney Songs. They simply could not be making more buns than this, or any faster. By the time the bakery opened at7soum, my back ached ster apitiabe fourhour. This is work People don't really get what it takes)” Lea Strobik, the head baler at Perron told me. The ‘work has tobe done toa high standard, byhand, ‘and done by the same coe staffthat work in the ‘bakery duringthe esto the yeat."le nat that we Just ck wo tines more onthe machine tomake ‘more buns” Mathias Fabricius, the cofounder of “Andersen & Mallard said, “and we're not gonna hire people just to workfor three weeks” And all, this bu makingisdone on top ofthe production ‘ofall the ether goods abacery sell. tricky balancing cfr the bakeries. They have to make money and build enthusiasm for thelr particular buns, but also not over prom: Ise to customers and overwork ther staf. The money taken at this time of year has come to {orm a core partof a Copenhagen bakery’ bust ness model Selingoutofatelavnsbollerat sam 25 Andersen & Mallard does, Fabricius said, can fem like an exercise in building hype around Scarcity, bu its also a function of the limited Production space and the extent to which you ‘an responsibly stretch your worker. ‘The mania shows no sgn oflettng up. fact, spreading elvewhere in the county. DR the Danish publicbroadcate, published piece ear- lier this week about a new wave of bakeries in Jutland and elsewhere outside ofthe big tes ‘that are selling gourmet fastlavnsbolle. The bakers and front of house staff spoke to hope, ‘though, that when next year's fastelavn rolls around, people will thinkalitle more abot their ‘actions toot getting thefstlavasboller they ‘wanted, Alter all as Jens put," just a face Ing bunaa Wit & Wisdom The Humoarst Robert Shrimsley Could any personal premium account managers out there give me a call? ‘A funny thing happened on the ‘way tothe bank. Wel not tral, because noone actully goes to 4 bank any more since your branch ‘Snow a Gals But metaphorically ‘fee weeks back, your column Ist was lampooning calls and texts from people styling themselves as hispersoal premium account man agersothey could upsllinvestment hemes. I must tll you now that he man who wrote that was 2 fool, 2 dunderhead, a dot. Anyone who ‘wants tobe my personal banker ean Callany time. Literally gti touch how, 1m here for your ius, Liss, ETT crypto indexes, tulips even. Why the change of heart? hly story starts last March when Tis Covered that a savings account had ~ apparently without warning- been declared dormant. This was never ‘my main bank but Thad built up the savings over some decades and hadleftitasapot for araiy future, ‘uch tothe vexation of my wile who gots very Martin Lewis about these tings and i constantly tll {Inge abot some building society Pontefract or Coventry offering ‘very competitive rates of interest. Eid notentrely blame the bank, the acount was 20 od that i wat opened when the institution had 3 tiferent name and {had not added mtn years 1 go fn touch and, after speaking with vigour to prove I was not Alormant, secured its restoration. Soil camess a surprise tha, ust, ce months ster he account as refroren and closed. didnot notice right away because there had been to direct contact, 1 subsequently found a singe eral in my sp ‘At no point did anyone stop to think that an account so recently reactivated might have a human ‘who wanted it sill attached. There ‘was no letter, no phone call follow Ing up the unseen email, to sa, We know you tld us you werent Asthe weeks passed, began to suspect my issue ‘wasnot the banks topprioritydormantbut,onreteton we think youmay be ven now, H might still have accepted some blame. No doubt 1 Shoal ave ben more attentive to what kind of ot of cash on whlch tis paying no interes iter vas hat footed promised I would hear back within 0 working days. Then lence. Therefollowedthree more weeks of caling customer agents, from scratch each time, 2 ‘cll or ema to acknowl problem fearing noting, having aint summarily rejected, ry Issue was not their top priority. rd to banging against a brick ‘Weck of chasing the absence of ‘gal, there argue thatthe fssuewasresolvedina mont, albeit only Decause 1 kept pestering. But vat sil shocks ithe ute esl To communteate with a customer ‘who wouldjust keto know thelssue in ‘tn polnt was I con with the appropriate unit Iwasgvennocase umber ornamed contact. Nothing was done to retain iy business. was just expected to shut up and wait In modern con- Sumer banking, I turns out, there feno direct accountabilty, no gto personyoucan pester when yutind yours i no longer listening bank. aps Iwas naive not to have realised this. But if anyone can ecommenda repuitabesecure Ins tution where youcanalktoanamed person when you call let me know. Personal bankers wherever youre, ake fall back Ba rebertshrinsey econ AROUND ONTHELINKS: y-ames Wan the answers here are linked Yount know tetea re {round should become ease. {Which musial, which opened con Broadway in 2001, won a record 12 Tony Awards? 2.The words towhich hymn began {252 poem called "The Pla ofthe (loud by John Henry Newnan? 3.WhatstheEnalish flacte aon eat epoken turning pointn Roman i 44.Somowhare in My Hear™ ‘nd “Obivous were the Dlagest hts of which band ofthe 1990 and 905? ‘5. Which shipping company merged with its chet ‘vel Conardin 1928? 6. What was created in 1996 bbyKeith Campbell tan wim tnd otners at Satiands Rosin neitute for animal ‘erences roeoarch? {L.Which post has been hel bby Wiliam Shawn Tine Brown ‘nd Devid Remick? £8. hich post has beon held by Alasdair Mine, Michael CCheckland and Mark Thompson? 8.Incricket, whats the callactive word fr byes eg byes, wides and no ble? 10.The name for which haircut sachet ty fap eagu univers James Walton ico ost of "the Booker Prize Podcast” ‘The Across clues ate traightorward, while the Down ches ae cryptic. ‘THE CROSSWORD No67S.Setby Adil Across 2Start fret por(@)—-Aanoying B.Abdomen(5) exercise onair(S) about paleo 10.uick drawing (6) 2.Space tst fice (0) thimovative, eutindisco(@) —TBeat row (8) 3.Studiopresentars sportsperson(6) 2Snare (6) fonewithendiess 18, ot einking WeHiandbook(@) ——task(6) beverage without 16.Whoolcover(4) 4. Revorsothe cneray dink Tsoftiit (6) sameane ist (4) that sft (8) W.Longiourey (4) B.Many soy 20.Indiferent reply 18.5poll mother (6) swallowedby fierce hastoupset workers BOverihere(6)—_predator(6) leader inside 2.4) 2A.Chinere noodle G.Oldschoal mother 22-Tellof ny and beansprout changes (6) sian 4) 2a.kitehen 26, Award cup (6) boss overcomes ZhWorkdough (6) current bose (5) 28. Tower of Londons resolute way(8) __-28-Requre27 Yeoman Warder(9) 13.Croupot woheer politicians caught Upinhoneytraps 5) ‘THE PICTUREROUND ames Walon hoor ‘what do these pletures add upto?wits Wisdom Mensun Bound Maritime archaeologist Inerviewby ese Lacey 2. Whatisyour cariest memory? Twasborn inthe Falkland sands "remember watching my father ‘ct pat in the bogs outside Port stanley. Wedepended on peat tocaok ato warm our homes 2 Who was or sls your mentor? The great classical archaeologist Professor sirjobn Boardman, at Oxford He taught mearchaolegy bytheold principles and pretty suc gave me my carer. My od boss at Oxford, Lord Bullock, a geat humanist founder ofa College and former vice chancel 5-How ft are you? Thaveled ati fall physical vente, Dut now just about ‘very acident ever had has come bckto hauatme, But can sill hullvakin the Falklands. 44-Tellmeaboutan animal you have loved ‘Asaboy on New Island, had a sheepdog. He was what was called a “seaterbealn whlch meant he was 4s. ‘nogood with sheep. It wasatough lifeand money was to shor for ‘mouths that ld not pay their way, foe was shot infront of me have ‘ever hal nor wanted a dog since, 5:Risk or caution, which has defined yourlifemore? Iwasa huge risk taker My wile Jo, nd Lare horrified when we thine bck tosome ofthe diving we dd fn Roman ships inthe Med. ‘Bounce-dvingta over 70 metres ‘nait, our brains loaty with hlrogen narcosis Mad stated tobecome more cautious when wehad our first-born, 6. What trait do you find most levitating others? ‘These days iendships seem tobe things of convenience, tobe pled upand discarded, Where Leame fom, rendships are for ie 7. What trait do yu find most Irvtatinginyoursel? ‘Time wating At my age, every minute sata premium. 8. What drives you ou? Knowledge. Pateularly ‘new knowledge. Nothing beats anatchacologial artefact that tells you something that was rot known before 5:Doyoubeleveinanaftrife? Forme, dead ls dead If find myself standingin front of God on his throne, shal simply ay, "Iwas wrong” Honesty canbe disarming. Yo. Whlch ismore puzzling, theexistence of suffering ois frequent absence? Treverthinkabout suferingin the philosophical sense-thave een lot of dead people onthe seabed. The allexperienced concentrated physi suering Thavecalleagues tvho lew bones as no more than ‘fos, Not. Lee them a8 feeling thinking peopl with whom ‘ThePlate The Uriquayan side ive beside frst years when assent to Montevideo for schol Decades te, Tdirected recoveries from ships that went down thee From Lord Neon’ favourite ship, the Agamemnon weraised the only ‘inno provento hae bee ied stthebattleof Trafalgar Lalo ecoveed gun from the German pocket battleship Graf Spee of Battle ofthe River Plate renown. 12, What would youhave one itferently? In2o22, was the director of explorationon the project that found shachletons Endurance, felt asifmy whole fe had bbeen narrowing to that moment. Sothere nating! would have done deer Eat “The ship Beneath the es The Discover of Shacklon's Endurance” by Mens Boonie published by Pan Sacra. plaque oneuring [Ems Shackleton dedicate ‘Westminster Abe ast wkwe LIVE WHAT'S WALL STREET'S VIEW Oy) oe ec The Future of: Hy Yee . YY VN, jarcl A Vi ae UY Pip) ’ y f | HM \ \,) Liif)| HN HH} ue ORCI FS Register for FreeO OMEGA