W hen we built our current boat some
20 years ago, I gave a lot of thought
to the question of fuel- and water-tank
materials and construction. My primary
concern was to ensure the integrity of
the tanks for the life of the boat.
Today, we are t h i n k i n g of buying
another boat, and are faced with the
exact same issue. This is likely to be the
last boat we buy—we may well have it
for the next 30 years. (If I live any longer,
I'll not be in a fit state to go to sea!) I
don't want to have to rip out the tanks
and replace them at a time when I'm get-
ting old and feeble, so the tanks must
outlast me. This is a tall order.
I've been looking at a number of dif-
ferent types of tank: built-ins (which,
depending on hull material, might be
wood, fiberglass, aluminum, or steel);
and "independent" fiberglass, stainless
18 PROFESSIONAL BOATBUILDER
steel, aluminum, or plastic tanks. Each
type has its advantages and disadvan-
tages. All of these are in service today,
so all merit close inspection.
Built-in Tanks
Our present boat has built-in fiber-
glass tanks. (I should note at the outset
that built-in gasoline fuel tanks are ille-
gal [CFR Title 33, paragraph 183.5501;
built-in diesel and water tanks are okay,
although the latest ISO standards require
that, if fitted as fuel tanks to boats for
the European market, such tanks must
be pressure-tested and labeled like any
other fuel tank.) Our built-in tanks have-
been a great success, and given an appro-
priate set of circumstances, I would go
the same route again. If the tanks are
built right, and set in a physical envi-
ronment that ensures their structural
integrity, they should last the life of the
boat.
Certain features of our toat have helped
to make the tanks trouble-free. The first
is that, since our sailboat has internal
ballast, we haven't had to worry about
maintaining access to keelbolts. The sec-
ond is the shape of our hull, which has
deep, Wineglass sections. We were able
to glass-in the ballast, and then build the
tanks into the low end of the wineglass
sections, using substantial glassed-in tank
baffles—along with an extremely rugged
tank top that is continuously bonded to
the hull on both sides, effectively form-
ing a structural member.
Due to the shape of our hull and the
method of tank installation, there is no
working or wracking of the hull in way
of the tanks. This is a key consideration
with built-in tanks, because if the hull
Facing page—The author's much-
traveled, 20-year-old, 38' FRP ketch is
Jilted with built-in fiberglass tanks for fuel
and water. His setup has succeeded
thanks largely to internal ballast and a
hull shape that has kept the tanks secure
down low. The biggest drawback to any
built-ins is that, if they need repair or
replacement, the job is apt to be a
nightmare.
does work, then sooner or later a tank
bond is likely to fail. When that happens,
you're up against the greatest drawback
of built-in tanks: If they should fail in
service, then repairing or replacing them
will likely be a horrendous experience.
Also, since every tank is virtually a cus-
tom fabrication, quality control is diffi-
cult, which increases the chances that
one small mistake in construction or
layup could cost a builder dearly.
Certain other features of our tank
construction are worth noting. Prior to
installing baffles or tank tops, we lined
the hull with two heavily saturated lay-
ers of mat in order to seal the inside of
the tanks. We used polyester resin (though
were I to repeat the exercise today I
would use epoxy). In order to maintain
total separation of the diesel and water
tanks, we installed a double tank end on
the diesel tank, and filled the cavity with
poured-in-place foam. In addition, we
set up the boat's bilge sump between
the diesel and water tanks. Should the
fuel tank leak, we will pick up the fuel
in the bilge before it gets into a water
tank. We have three water tanks, so if
one fails we still have a supply.
Because we had heard that fiberglass
tanks impart an unpleasant taste to water,
we initially painted the insides of the
water tanks with a special water-tank
paint before installing the tops. This was
a mistake. Over time, the paint slowly
peeled off. And, we never did detect
any bad taste.
I know that some builders of laminated-
wood vessels (strip-planked or cold-
molded) have experimented with built-in
plywood/epoxy tanks. I don't know
whether these tanks have been successful
or problematic, but I expect similar con-
siderations apply as with glassed-in tanks.
Moreover, with that type of construction
I would be very concerned about ade-
quately sealing the tank. The slightest
damage to the tank's surface, or improp-
erly sealed access holes, will eventu-
ally lead to delamination of the plywood,
resulting in expensive repairs.
In metal boats, built-in tanks can be
constructed with less labor, fewer QC
problems, and less likelihood of damage
caused by the working of the hull than
is the case with fiberglass or laminated-
wood hulls. Nevertheless, sooner or later
all metal tanks are likely to corrode, which
again raises the specter of expensive
repairs or replacement.
Aluminum Tanks
Let's take a closer look at the corro-
sion problem with metal tanks (built-in
or independently mounted), starting with
aluminum.
Aluminum has been widely used as a
tank material in the marine industry for
many years. In particular, it is used for
foamed-in gas tanks in many smaller
powerboats. Despite its popularity, though,
there are numerous instances of failures
in aluminum tanks, which prompted the
Underwriters Laboratories (UL) to initi-
ate "A Study on Problems with Aluminum Aluminum tanks come in all shapes and
Fuel Tanks in Recreational Boats," pub- sizes. And if the boat requires a custom
lished in 1994. That report, summarized fabrication, then it's easy enough—fora
in a recent U.S. Coast Guard Boating price—to make a tank to order.
Safety Circular (No. 79, April '97), began
by stating:
"The limited data gathered during this
research showed that aluminum fuel tanks
failed in many different types, makes,
and models of recreational boats owned
by the general public. Boats from 3 to 27
years old, 17 to 57 feet in length, inexpen-
sive to very expensive, and used in both Aluminum is a perfectly acceptable
salt and fresh waters, were reported to have material for tankage, provided the unit is
experienced significant problems associ- properly installed. The tanks pictured
ated with the aluminum fuel tanks installed below, pulled from a whale-watch boat,
as manufacturers' standard equipment." show pronounced corrosion caused by
The primary failure mechanism of these poor installation.
tanks was found to be corrosion, irre-
spective of whether "marine grade" alu-
minum alloys were used in construction.
(The applicable American Boat and Yacht
Council [ABYC] standards, H-24 and H-
33, recommend the use of 5052, 5083,
or 5086 magnesium-bearing alloys.) This
corrosion was found to occur "on the
bottom of tanks, under hold-down straps,
APRIL/MAY 1998 19
 This aluminum gas tank rotted out
because the tank, mounted low in the
boat, sat in bilgewater. Being bonded to
the boat's bonding system, the tank acted
as an anode and thus progressively
corroded.
at voids under flotation foam," and where
"surfaces of the fuel tanks have prolonged
contact with water in the bilge."
The report notes that "aluminum is
one of the more reactive metals in the
Galvanic Series table," making it subject
to three types of corrosion: pitting, crevice,
and galvanic. In all three cases, although
the causes of corrosion may differ, the
mechanism remains the same—an
electrochemical reaction that results in
the dissolution of the aluminum.
The only tiling it takes to set this process
in motion is moisture. Dissolved salts
and other impurities in the water form
what is known as an electrolyte—a con-
ductive solution. Minute differences in
the composition of the alloy establish
what is basically a tiny battery. The bat-
tery is fueled by the destruction of part
of the alloy. Bilgewater, in particular,
contains all kinds of impurities that have
been washed off the decks, or flushed
20 PROFESSIONAL BOATBUILDER
out of the boat, and is therefore, in the word-
ing of the report, "a high-conductivity
electrolyte very rich in impurities," creat-
ing "a very harsh corrosive environment."
Pitting corrosion on aluminum alloys
is a localized phenomenon that occurs
when the passive film responsible tor
aluminum's corrosion resistance breaks
down at small areas. These areas then
interact with the surrounding aluminum
whose passive film is still intact.
Crevice corrosion occurs not at ran-
dom points on the surface of the pas-
sive film, but at those locations where
water gains access to the surface of the
aluminum, but the movement of this
Circle Reader Service No. 71
water is restricted. For example, we might
find crevice corrosion between tanks and
bearers, under retaining straps, or where
water penetrates foam around foamed-
in tanks. First, the water becomes de-
oxygenated; then the passive film on the
aluminum breaks down and corrosion
begins to form a crevice. Within the
crevice, the anodic, or active, area once
again corrodes preferentially with respect
to the surrounding cathodic, or passive,
area. In both pitting and crevice corro-
sion, a localized galvanic cell is estab-
lished, and so long as material is available,
the corrosion will continue. Once again,
all it takes to initiate corrosion is the pres-
ence of an electrolyte.
Because of their position in the Gal-
vanic Series, aluminum alloys are likely
to suffer corrosion any time they are in
electrical contact with a less anodic metal.
Practically speaking, that means just about
any other boatbuilding metal, including
the difference between the base metal
and weld metal in welded tanks.
Copper-based fittings (commonly found
in fuel systems) can be especially destruc-
tive to aluminum. When exposed to an
electrolyte, the normal galvanic interac-
tion is exacerbated by copper ions enter-
ing the electrolyte and "plating out" on
the aluminum, causing small but very
active localized galvanic cells. For this
reason, copper-based fittings must always
be separated from aluminum tanks, gen-
erally by stainless steel washers and
adapters—stainless being less reactive
than copper.
Bonding—the practice of wiring tanks
to the boat's grounding system—can be
especially destructive. Bonding is a fed-
eral requirement for gas tanks, as well as
an ABYC recommendation for all metal
tanks. But once bonded, the bonding
wire forms an electrical connection be-
tween the tank and any other bonded
metal on the boat. If the tank and some
other bonded metal (an engine pan, for
example, or a through-hull) are sub-
merged in bilgewater, then the other
metal is almost always higher in the
Galvanic Series table and as such is less
reactive than aluminum, in which case
the aluminum corrodes.
[For a thorough explanation of the
Galvanic Series and corrosion in boats,
see PBB No. 32, page 36, and PBB No.
33, page 28—Ed.]
Coating aluminum tanks with anti-
corrosion paints and surface treatments
Circle Reader Service
will help to prevent corrosion, but such
surface coatings can be a double-edged
sword. Why? Because should the coat-
ing be breached and moisture added,
then any tendency toward galvanic cor-
rosion is likely to be concentrated at this
point, accelerating the rate of localized
corrosion.
Careful installation will eliminate many
of the causes of corrosion. So, on this
subject the ABYC standards state:
"Metallic components used in a fuel
system shall be selected and assembled
to minimize galvanic action" [H-24.5.51;
"Copper base alloy components (e.g.,
No. 88
many tank fittings) shall be separated
from contact with aluminum tanks by
means of a galvanic barrier such as 300-
series stainless steel" [H-24.18.1.51;
"All non-integral tank supports, chocks,
or hangers shall be separated from the
metallic tank surface by a non-metallic,
non-moisture-absorbent, non-abrasive
material suitable for the purpose (e.g.,
neoprene, Teflon, and high-density plas-
tics)" [H-24.10.61;
"Self-wicking material, such as carpet
pile, shall not be in contact with a metal-
lic tank" [H-24.10.6.1];
"Each metallic tank must be installed
to allow drainage of accumulated water
from the tank's surfaces when the boat
is in its static floating position" [H-24.10.8];
"Metal tanks shall be installed where
they cannot be reached by normal accu-
mulation of bilgewater in the static float-
ing position" [H-24.10.91.
The preferred method of installing
metal tanks is probably to use flanges
on the tank, or welded-on tabs, so that
no part of the tank itself is in contact
with any mounting surface. This way,
moisture will not be trapped against the
tank's surface, and any corrosion that does
take place will tend to be concentrated
APRIL/MAY 1998 21

Above—Crevice corrosion on the surface
of a stainless-steel diesel fuel tank. Crevice
corrosion is a localized galvanic cell,
occurring where water gains access to the
surface of the metal but its movement is
restricted.
under the flanges or tabs. As such, the
corrosion will not threaten the integrity
of the tank itself. For such an approach
to work, however, the flanges or tabs
and any associated welds must clearly be
strong enough to withstand all stresses
to which the tank will be subjected.
According to Rosemary Fiori of Florida
Marine Tanks (Hialeah, Florida), a high-
volume aluminum-tank fabricator, poten-
tial corrosion problems can be eliminated
if the tank is properly installed. In par-
ticular, she advises, "keep tanks out of
the bilge, keep them dry, use proper
foam, and use a stainless steel barrier
between the aluminum and copper-based
fittings." Still, she notes that "consumers
are asking for more and more features
on boats, and these reduce the room for
fuel. The fuel tanks then get squeezed
into inaccessible and inappropriate places.
I really believe the key to solving this
problem is education of all those involved."
No matter how well a tank has been
installed, it should still be accessible.
"Burying a tank," says Fiori, "is almost
like welding the hood of your car shut!"
The bottom line here is that regard-
less of the method used to mount the
22 PROFESSIONAL BOATBUILDER
The blue halo (above) on either
side of the weld head on this
stainless steel gas tank (above, left),
is a sign of "carhide precipitation"-—
a phenomenon that occurs with
some alloys when heated in the
welding process. It creates a
chromium-depleted area beside the
weld that is very susceptible to
corrosion.
tank, you cannot eliminate all sources of
moisture contact with tank surfaces. For
example, the common dockside practice
of filling tanks before leaving a boat leads
to moisture formation. How? The fuel in
the tank responds to temperature changes
more slowly than does the surrounding
ambient atmosphere, causing conden-
sation. The moisture gets under straps
and bearers when these are used, and
in tiny crevices in the metal if none of
the tank is in contact with other surfaces.
Corrosion may then begin.
The UL study postulates that 0.090"
plate (the minimum thickness permitted
for aluminum fuel-tank construction) has
a theoretical service life of 6.5 years in
the marine environment, while 0.125"
plate (often used for more heavily built
tanks) can be expected to last 17.4 years.
In reality, the end is not nearly this pre-
dictable. Still, the salient point remains,
namely: aluminum tanks cannot he
assumed to last the life of today's boats.
Recognizing this, ABYC H-24.10.2 states:
Metal "tanks shall be installed so that
means for maintenance or replacement
is provided, or indicated so it can be
accomplished with a minimum distur-
bance of the boat structure."
From my perspective, aluminum is not
a suitable material for the tanks in our
new boat.
Stainless Steel
What about stainless steel? Stainless
steel tanks are often considered by
the buying public to be the mark of
superior quality. This is a misconception
that can have expensive consequences,
because many stainless steel tanks are
just as susceptible to corrosion as those
made of aluminum.
Stainless steel contains both chromium
and nickel. The stainless gets its resis-
tance to corrosion when the chromium
in the alloy reacts with oxygen in the
atmosphere to form a microscopic sur-
face layer of chromium oxide. Whenever
this protective layer is breached, the
underlying metal is at risk of corroding.
But, given a continuing supply of oxy-
gen, the chromium oxide layer will "heal"
itself, preventing corrosion.
Problems arise when stainless steel
gets wet in a de-oxygenated environ-
ment. Without oxygen, the chromium
oxide layer tends to break down. When
that happens, all it takes to set up a gal-
vanic cell is a little moisture, combined
with minute differences in the composi-
tion of the stainless alloy. Corrosion can
then be quite rapid. Just as with alu-
minum, typical areas in which corrosion
is likely to develop are under hold-down
straps, or where a tank is resting on its
bearers. Accordingly, the same consid-
erations listed above for the installation
of aluminum tanks apply to stainless steel
tanks.
In general, for a specific chromium
content, the alloys with higher nickel
contents are the more corrosion-
resistant. Of those most commonly used
in the marine industry, 304 has 18%
chromium and 10% nickel, 316 has
17% chromium and 12% nickel, and 317
has 18% chromium and 14% nickel. 316
and 317 also have small amounts of
molybdenum (2.5% and 3.5%, respec-
tively), which further enhances corro-
sion resistance.
In addition to these grades of stainless
steel, other more corrosion-resistant grades
have become widely available in recent
years. They are distinguished both by
the incorporation of 6% or more molyb-
denum in the mix (hence the nickname
"6% mollies"), and of about 0.2% nitro-
gen, which enhances corrosion resistance.
Although 304 is widely used, experi-
ence has shown that it is not suitable for
tank construction. Rosemary Fiori (whose
company makes 316L stainless steel tanks)
comments: "We see lots of terrible 304
stainless steel tanks built for offshore use,
mostly in sailboats." Jim Jenkins of the
Nickel Development Institute (Toronto,
Ontario, Canada) concurs. "I consider
the 316L/317L alloys to be the minimum
grades that should be used for boat
tanks," he says. "There are more recently
"Tank Choices" continues
"Tank Choices" continues
developed stainless steels that have cor-
rosion resistance very much superior to
the 316L/317L grades. For example, the
anti-corrosion performance of the 6%
molybdenum alloys has been demon-
strated in laboratory and field tests, and
in many applications in severe environ-
ments. While not immune to corrosion,
these alloys—assuming proper design
and fabrication—will produce a tank with
a life expectancy exceeding that of most
small craft. The use of such alloys should
be encouraged. While they are more
expensive [than 316L/317L], the cost of
a tank fabricated from them would be
little more than a 316L/317L tank, and
would certainly be cheaper on a life-
cycle cost basis."
There is another factor that must be
considered when choosing an appro-
priate grade of stainless steel for marine
use. Most stainless alloys contain traces
of carbon. In "standard" alloys, the car-
bon content is limited to 0.08% by weight.
When you weld the metal, this carbon
has a tendency to migrate to the boun-
daries of the weld and to combine with
the chromium there. The carbon effec-
tively "locks up" the chromium, not only
disabling it in terms of its corrosion-
24 PROFESSIONAL BOATBUILDER
prevention role, but also creating differ-
ences in the composition of the alloy in
and around the weld. In the presence of
moisture, a galvanic cell can develop,
resulting in corrosion of a type known
as intergranular corrosion, or weld decay.
Heat treatment of welded stainless
components will redistribute the carbon
and prevent intergranular corrosion, but
this is generally impractical for large items
such as tanks. The addition of trace
amounts of niobium or titanium to an
alloy will also "neutralize" the carbon
(yielding types 347 and 321 stainless
steel), resulting in what are known as
stabilized alloys. Another way to mini-
mize problems is to use stainless steels
specially formulated to have very low
carbon contents (below 0.03%). Such
alloys are often designated by the addi-
tion of the letter "L" after the alloy num-
ber, as in the 316L/317L referred to above
by both Rosemary Fiori and Jim Jenkins.
Besides the "right" grade of stainless
steel for tank construction—including
an appropriate filler metal for welding,
which is crucial if galvanic corrosion
along the weld line is to be avoided—
skill is needed in the tank-assembly
process. Rosemary Fiori notes that "assem-
Circle Reader Service No. 127
bly requires very skilled welders with
many years' experience."
If the tank is to have a trouble-free
service life, then proper shop procedures
must be followed during manufacture.
Most important is to avoid contamina-
tion of the stainless steel. If, for exam-
ple, a weld is cleaned with a steel brush,
or if grinding a neighboring ferrous arti-
cle spatters the tank's stainless steel with
ferrous particles, then once the tank enters
a salt atmosphere those ferrous particles
will start to rust, leaving unsightly stains.
Much more worrisome, though, is that
the rusting particles can initiate galvanic
corrosion of the underlying stainless steel,
a process that can continue until the tank
is perforated. Even something as seem-
ingly benign as a grease-pencil mark can
cause corrosion by setting up an anaer-
obic environment (absence of oxygen)
in which a drop of moisture might initi-
ate a galvanic cell. (Jim Jenkins points
out that the much higher corrosion resis-
tance of the 6% mollies makes a grease-
pencil mark a highly unlikely cause of
crevice corrosion with this class of stain-
less steel.)
From my perspective, the commonly
used Type 316L/317L stainless steels can-
not he relied upon to last the life of a
boat. The more corrosion-resistant alloys
such as the 6% mollies should give reli-
able service, but right now. ABYC stan-
dards call for 316L or 317L for fuel tanks
(the standards were written before the
new alloys were widely available). In
any case, ABYC limits stainless steel fuel
tanks to a maximum of 20 gallons. The
standards further limit the design to a
cylindrical shape with domed ends (a
requirement frequently violated by boat-
builders). These limitations, arising from
a documented history of large flat panels
on r e c t a n g u l a r stainless-steel tanks
flexing—thereby causing stress cracks
along the welds—are also not compati-
ble with the design criteria for our new
boat.
Plastic (FRP and PE)
This brings us back to some form of
"plastic" tank, the two practical choices
being fiber-reinforced plastic (FRP) and
polyethylene (PE).
The UL study of aluminum fuel tanks
noted in passing that fiberglass tanks
"have been in existence for many years.
This type of tank has a good track record
and has proven its effectiveness."
Rut, there is apparently no produc-
tion builder of fiberglass tanks; each must
be custom-fabricated. One method I've
employed l < > build tanks with a capacity
of less than 30 gallons is to first make a
mold from Styrofoam, which I shape to
fit the desired space and then cover with
a plastic (polyethylene) film. The film
provides a smooth surface for laying up
the tank itself, using resin-rich layers on
the inside to make the tank imperme-
able. When the layup is finished, you cut
an access hole in the top, and then either
dig out or dissolve the foam. (Gasoline
works well, but it also poses a disposal
problem.) Larger tanks require baffles;
this necessitates constructing the
tank with the top off so that the baffles
can be bonded in place before adding
the top.
Properly constructed and installed,
such tanks can be expected to last the
life of the boat. They would be my pre-
ferred option. Nevertheless, as the UL study
notes: "...the disadvantage of these tanks
is that they are very labor-intensive to A neat installation of a well-made
produce, making this option time- and polyethylene tank in an aluminum
cost-prohibitive." The cost is especially powerboat. Given good maintenance of
high for gasoline tanks, which, by law, the boat itself, this tank can be expected
must be tested for compliance with U.S. to last the life of the vessel.
APRIL/MAY 1998 25
 The boat owner made this bizarre
sculpture, repairing a damaged vent
fitting on a polyethylene holding tank.
The fittings are the most vulnerable
feature of these tanks.

Coast Guard standards. (The ABYC has

the same tests in its standard governing
diesel fuel systems [H-331, but compli-
ance is voluntary.) On a boat production
line, the cost of testing a "representative
sample" can be amortized over the entire
production run; whereas with custom
building it must be absorbed by the indi-
vidual tank.
Polyethylene is the other commonly
available "plastic" for tank construction.
It is amazingly tough and durable. Best
of all, in common with all plastics, PE is is then air- and water-cooled, after which tions to what can be clone. Rosemary
immune to corrosion. it is opened and the tank popped out. Fiori comments: "We build a l u m i n u m
Polyethylene comes in two forms— The process, known as rotational mold- tanks of many hundreds, and sometimes
linear and cross-linked. In both cases ing (or roto-molding, for short), is com- thousands, of gallons' capacity. I imag-
the raw material (resin) is in the form of puter controlled, which helps ensure ine building adequate baffles in a tank
a powder having the consistency of sugar. effective QC. of this size would be difficult."
A specified amount of this material is Complex shapes can be achieved with Being a thermoplastic, linear poly-
weighed before being placed inside a roto-molding, including indentations for ethylene will soften when reheated; it is
female mold. The mold is slowly rotated hold-down devices, reinforcements for also recyclable, though recycled LPE is
biaxially (in two axes) while being heated. fittings, and, on large tanks, "baffles" not as strong as virgin material. The PDA
The powder uniformly coats the inside (partial dams molded into the top and (U.S. Food and Drug Administration)
of the mold, turning into a gel. The mold bottom surfaces). Still, there are limita- requires virgin LPE in the manufacture

Circle Reader Service No. 149

26 PROFESSIONAL BOATBUILDER
of water tanks, which is where the mate-
rial is principally used. (It is also found
in holding tanks.) The material, how-
ever, is not suitable for fuel tanks; hydro-
carbons eventually cause it to crack.
Typically, linear polyethylene tanks
are partially transparent, which the man-
ufacturers tout as an advantage since it
enables the liquid level to be readily
determined. But, if light is allowed to
enter a freshwater system, it also encour-
ages the growth of algae. My preference
is for opaque tanks and tubing.
Cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE)
has a peroxygen added that chemically
changes it into a thermoset; that is, once
the melt has hardened, reheating the
material will not re-melt it. More impor-
tantly, the peroxygen raises a physical
property referred to as the "environmental
stress-cracking resistance," which sim-
ply means that long-term use with vari-
ous fuels does not degrade the material.
Accordingly, cross-linked polyethylene
makes an excellent fuel-tank material,
although it is not acceptable to the PDA
for potable water systems.
Both linear and cross-linked polyeth-
ylene generally have U V inhibitors added
to their constituent mix. These pretty
much eliminate problems with "age
hardening," which was an issue years
ago. In fact, says George Kraemer of
Kracor (Milwaukee, Wisconsin), a large
and long-established manufacturer of PE
tanks, "in view of the properties of today's
resins, modern PE tanks are just about
indestructible."
Here, then, is a material that should
last the life of a boat. When failures do
occur, it is mostly around the fittings for
water and holding tanks in linear poly-
ethylene tanks (not cross-linked), usu-
ally as a result of:
• improper installation of hose barbs
and lines (too much torque when screw-
ing in threaded components, failure to
add a flexible section in attached pip-
ing, or inadequate support of hoses and
piping );
• improper stowage of gear; or
• someone accidentally stepping on
the fitting when working on the boat.
As for installing PE tanks, John Eggers
of EVM Inc. (Two Rivers, Wisconsin)
says, "A whole new set of rules applies.
Gone is the requirement that the tank
be above accumulations of bilgewater.
Gone is the need to inspect the surface
of the tank for corrosion. Gone is the
need for the tank to be mounted on a
self-draining platform." Instead, there are
certain new specific requirements:
• Manufacturers recommend fully sup-
porting the tank's bottom with a surface
shaped to match that of the tank, and
with neoprene padding between the tank
and other contact points.
• Whatever method is used to retain
the tank, it must not cause chafing, cut-
ting, or abrasion.
• In addition, a fuel tank must be given
room to "grow." When filled with gas or
diesel fuel during its first month or so of
operation, a cross-linked polyethylene
tank will expand in all directions by about
2% (approximately ¼" per foot). After
this "break-in" period, the tank stabilizes,
regardless of whether it is full of fuel or
empty. So the installation must allow for
this expansion, which means cross-linked
PE fuel tanks should never be foamed
in place. Nylon webbing works well as a
retainer since it is impervious to corro-
sion, and will stretch enough to accom-
modate the growth of a tank. Once the
tank is secured, all connections need to
be made with well-supported, flexible
fuel lines.
A properly installed and suitably
APRIL/MAY 1998 27
protected polyethylene tank can pretty
well he fitted in place and forgotten! The
one drawback to polyethylene is that if
there is not a stock tank to fit a certain
application, then the cost of developing
a mold is prohibitively expensive—unless
the mold is subsequently used for a sub-
stantial production run. (Kracor's George
Kraemer says the practicable minimum
is 100 units a year.) By contrast, one-off
construction is where metal excels.
Nevertheless, there are now literally hun-
dreds of different shapes and sixes of
28 PROFESSIONAL BOATBUILDER
polyethylene tanks that can be bought
off the shelf. If necessary, a boat's inte-
rior spaces can be modified to accept a
stock tank at the design stage of the ves-
sel, which seems far preferable to installing
a custom-built metal tank that may fail
before the boat reaches the end of its
service life.
A Longer Life
In the days when virtually all recre-
ational small craft were built of wood, it
was axiomatic that every part of the struc-
ture be somehow accessible. That being
the case, tanks tended to be rather small
and designed for removal. Problems with
tanks were relatively easy to resolve—
by removing the tank, if need be.
The advent of fiberglass changed boat-
building in a number of ways, not the
least of them being that it is no longer
essential to maintain access to all areas
of the hull. So it was only logical that
boatbuilders should take a fresh look at
tanks, which are large and awkward items
requiring no regular maintenance. It was
readily apparent to everyone working in
the medium of glass that tanks could be
built into inaccessible spaces. Given the
weight of a tank when full, it was also
only logical that tanks be placed low in
a boat, which frequently puts them in
contact with bilgewater, even if only
intermittently.
In such circumstances it is unfortunate
that some of the most commonly used
materials in tank construction do not
have the same life expectancy as fiber-
glass hulls. An ever-increasing number
of boats with tank problems are going
to be both troublesome and expensive to
fix.
Many of these problems, particularly
those resulting from corrosion, could be
avoided with proper installation prac-
tices, and in any case, are avoidable.
Noncorrosive polyethylene tanks have
been available now for nearly 30 years.
They have proved their reliability in hard
service. It makes sense to use plastic
tanks in plastic boats. Just to be safe,
though, these tanks should be installed
in such a way that they can be removed
without ripping the boat apart. That would
take care of a worst-case replacement
scenario.
The U.S. Coast Guard's Boating Safety
Circular #79 states: "The biggest advan-
tage with the use of nonmetallic fuel
tanks is that they do not corrode, and,
if they are properly manufactured and
installed, they should last for the ex-
pected service life of the boat. As a result,
any owner of a boat with a metallic tank
which has failed should consider a replace-
ment tank constructed of PE."
Well-constructed and properly installed
PE tanks will be the way we go on our
next boat. We simply must ensure that
the necessary spaces aboard to take
stock tanks are created during design
and construction.
About the Author: Nigel Calder is a con-
tributing editor of Professional BoatBuilder.
He has a Web site at <http://lincoln.mid-
coast. com/- ncalder>.