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OWNER'S MANUAL
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SEWING MACHINE
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385. 1011180
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Dear CustomeP:
You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before us]rig your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the,best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
AdvTce on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 2_3 • Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 31
Identify the Accessories ........................ 3 Buttonholes ............................. 32_33
Sew in a Zipper .......................... 34_35
Smocking ................................ 36
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catalog.
Another option . , . buy a Carrying Case . . . then Take up Lever Stitch Selector
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- Bobbin W;nder Tension D_sc
where.
Up per Th read Guide
Needle Plate
Shuttle Cover
2
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Top Cover
SpooE
Pins Accessory box
nt brush
Thread Guide
Bobbin
_nhofe opener
Clutch
Knob Presser Foot Lever
Hand Wheel
S _rge screw driver
Free Arm
_1 screw driver
Lcght and
Power Switch Nomenclature Plate
Needle set
Plug Connector
Foot Control
Thread Guide
Straight
Need le Clarqp * But[onhole
stitch foo: guide foot
Presser Foot
footSatin
stitch
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. Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
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Power
switch _I-] .'; "- "" _-"
\\ supply
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,°..°,,< Foot control
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Machine The foot control regulates the speed at
socket
4. Push the light and power switch to turn
on the power and sewing light, which you sew.
Machine
To increase speed, gently press down with
plug
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outlet, as shown. It wilt only fit one way. your taste and needs.
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
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Setting Spool Pins Adjust the Presser Foot Lever • Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table
To remove:
II L 0°°'0'n H=gh
position
\
Norrnal
position • ,
J J To Attach :
Spool Pins are packed in accessory box. The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers
your presser foot.
Screw spool pins in place securely with a
screw d river. You can raise it about 1/4" higher than
normal up position for easy removal of the
Position sppo! pin felts as shown in illustra-
tion. presser foot or to help you place heavy
fabrics under the presser foot.
* bar tacking to reinforce pockets, * stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant * darning socks or mending knees, sewing buttons on sleeves, waist-
belt loops and waistline on ready- legs, or any circular garment area. elbows, or areas of wear in child bands, etc.
made or homemade garments to ren's clothes.
avoicl fabric bunching around the
needle.
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The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively.
Use this foot for both straight and zigzag Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching
stitching. using center needle position only.
! Uses: Straight
Topstitching
stitching (see p. 2_22),
(see p. 23),
Uses: Stratight
Topstitching
stitching (see p. 22),
(see p. 23_),
Straight stretch (see p. 24), Stratight stretch (see p. 24)
Zigzag stitching (see p. 25),
Bar tacking (see p. 2j),
Button sewing (see p. 2__9_9),
Overcasting stitch (see p. 30),
Rick-Rack stretch (see p. 30),
To change the various presser feet, raise the Three-step zigzag [see p. 3__11),
presser bar to its highest position by lifting Smocking (see p. 3__66)
the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser
foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot,
insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw
using the large screw driver to make certain
the foot is secure.
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Satin Stitch Foot Zipper Foot Buttonhole Guide Foot (Model 11551 only)
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Use this foot for satin stitch and oultining This foot can be set to sew on each side of Use this foot for buttonholes. It is marked
applique and Buttonhole making. your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the to measure your buttonholes accurately.
zipper and keep the seam straight, Uses: Buttonhole making (see p. 3__2)
Uses: Satin stitch (see p. 26),
Applique (see p. 27), Uses: Zipper application (see p. 3#,) (Built-in method)
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• Check Your Needle
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks
and silk-like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong,
smooth and consistent in thickness.
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Yourchoice
ofneedle
andthreaddepends
on the fabric you are sewing.
In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles:
NEEDLE RECOMMENDED
FABRIC SIZE AND THREAD SIZE STITCH LENGTH
COLOR SETTING
Lightweight:
Polyester Core/Cotton
Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon,
Wrap 12 stitches per
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, 11-ORANGE
Fine Mercerized Cotton inch
Crepe, Taffeta, Voile,
Silk A
Organdy
Medium Weight:
Cotton, Cotton Blends,
50 Mercerized Cotton
Percale, Gingham,
Polyester Core!Cotton 10 _ 12 stitches
Shantung, Pique, 14-RED
Wrap per inch
Seersucker, Satin, Knits, " L
Silk A
Vinyl Suitings, Linen, Needle clamp screw
Wool Crepe, Leather
.... f ;
Medium Heavy Weight: 50 Mercerized Cotton
Flat
Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Mercerized Heavy-Duty
14-RED 8 _ 10 stitches sfde
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Polyester Core/Cotton
or per inch away
Gabardine, Velvets, Wrap from
16-PURPLE
Leather Silk A
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10
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• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine • Wind the Bobbin
r = f
Remove the extension table from To remove bobbin case from shut-
the machine by pulling it to the tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.
left. Open the shuttle cover by
Pull bobbin case straight out of
puIIing down the embossed part on shuttle.
the left side of the cover,
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Draw thread from spool through bobbin Pull end of thread through hole in Place bobbin onto bobbin winder Wind thread until winder stops. Remove
winder tension disc as shown, bobbin as shown. spindle with end of thread coming from bobbin. Clip thread.
the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin
Tighten clutch knob.
winder shaft to the right until it clicks.
Holding onto end of thread, start ma-
chine. When bobbin is slightly filled,
snip off end of thread.
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Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case Pult thread under tension Holding latch open, position Case should lock into place
making sure thread feeds clock- as shown, spring and through the opening case into shuttle and release when latch is released.
wise and is coming from as shown above, latch.
bobbin as shown.
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• Thread Your Needle
(!) The numbered steps below follow the numbers on the illustrations.
Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled
tight.
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1. Draw thread through thread 2. While holding thread near 4. Draw thread up & through
guide, spool, draw thread into take-up _ever.
threading channel toward
you making sure the thread
is pulled firmly between the
tension discs.
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1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold 2, Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the
needle thread loosely in ]eft hand top thread. back of the presser foot, leaving 3
® and rotate handwheel toward you to 4 inches of thread clear.
one complete turn.
If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:
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5. Draw thread down and into 1. Is needle threaded from front to back?
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Loose__
The top thread The top _hread
is too loose. is too tight
T_ghten
The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of The top thread The bobbin thread
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. appears on the appears on the
underside of the upper surface of the
If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no fabric. fabric.
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Tension is too loose: Tension is too tight:
The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through
bottom of the fabric, The bottom side the top of the fabric. The top side of
of the stitch will feel bumpy. the stitch will feel bumpy.
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In the ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads wilt not show on top of the
fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the under side. See below
for the correct appearance. Adjust the top thread tension for the best
match in your sewing conditions.
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6 8 12240
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Setting mark_ I
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The stitch selector control not only The stitch length control regulates the In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length To reverse stitch, hold down this con-
determines the stitch you select, but length of the stitch. Control should be in the detent posi- trol during sewing.
tion between S and L (vposition)for
also regulates the stitch width for Release to sew forward again.
The higher the number, the shorter the most materials. Depending upon the
regular zigzag and rick rack stretch stitch. type of fabric used, you may need to
stitches. adjust this control to match forward
0 means no feed.
stitches of stretch sewing with reverse
The different types of stitches are motion stitches. To shorten stretch
designated by color. stitches, turn the control slightly to-
Straight, Zigzag and Three-Step Zigzag ward "'S". To lengthen, turn toward
"'C",
(Model 11551 only) are orange.
Rickrack stretch
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Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new
Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:
1. Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be
afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural
fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads
during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
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3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension
suitable to your fabric.
4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8"
seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam.
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.
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7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.
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.... | .
i ' " 36
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SATIN STITCH Satin Check 1L4 0_'24 Use for applique work, also as decorative 26 _ 28
Chart finish for p]acemats, blankets, collars,
cuffs and pockets.
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STRAIGHT
Ill
Straight Check 2 _ 6 S • L Use on knits and other stretch fabrics, good 24
STR ETCH III
Chart for topstitching.
(Models 11551 and ill
11541) _ Z i gza9
RICK-RACK
Zigzag Check 1_4 S v L Decorate garments with One row or several 30
STRETCH
Chart
(Models 11551 and
11541)
THREE-STEP
Z igza9 Check 1_4 Blue Zone Use for finishing seams. 31
ZIGZAG
Chart 24
(Model 11551 only)
SMOCKING
Zigzag Check 1_4 S • L Use nn smocking or as a decorative stitch. 36
STITCH
Chart
(Model 11551 only)
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BUTTONHOLE ,iq Buttonhole Check 1_5 B lue Zone Buttonholes: also corded buttonholes. 32 _ 33
(Model 11551 only) I Chart
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1-11
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• Straight Stitch • Use the Seam Guides
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Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Cornering Guide
Stitch length
control 6 to 12 The seam guides on the needle plate
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6 are there to help you measure seam
1. Raise the presser foot. - 7. At the end of the seam; you may
width. The lines are 1/8" apart, with
2. Raise the needle to its highest want to reverse to lock the stitch. the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
position. 8. Raise the presser foot and remove
• Turn a Square Corner
the fabric.
3. Place the edge of the fabric next
to a stitching guide line on the 9. Cut the threads.
Zigzag foot
needle plate (5/8" is most
common).
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4. Draw the threads towards the
back and lower the presser foot.
L 5. Press the foot control.
Stitch selector I !
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Set the Machine Set the Machine
Stich selector Stitch selector
!
2. Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between Straight foo= Zigzag foot
Darning plate
embroidery hoops with hole centered.
5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until ed for knits and stretch fabrics. deal of strain (ie. children's
you have covered the darning area. clothes).
T,his stitch can also be used for
6. Turn the fabric half turn and sew another topstitching on all fabrics. The stretch stitch does not
layer of stitching over the first layer. actually stretch as it is being
sewn, but is stitched in a
NOTE: If your fabric is thin or badly
forward and back motion
damaged, use a separate piece of fabric
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• Basic Zigzag
@
Stitch length
Top thread tension 6 to 24
control 2 to 5
Here's How
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>
>
Stitch length
0 to 24
>
<,
Top thread tens;or,
control 1 to 4
Close to 0
The Satin stitch is a versatile and often Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a fragment
used decorative stitch, but it can also of the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light
be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- weight fabrics.
ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths
and napkins).
26
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Bar Tacking
Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric This stitch is similar to a very short
joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. satin stitch and is used to reinforce
Stitch around the applique making points of strain such as corners or
sure the needle fails along the outer
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pockets and straps on lingerie.
Satir, stitch foot Zigzag foot
edge of the applique,
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
When sewing corners, lower the needle
down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and pivot the fabric to the right
or left.
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+ Monogramming • Embroidery
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Set the Machine Set the Machine
Stitch selector Stitch selector
when you have finished sewing. 6. Lower the presser foot lever to
engage the top thread tension.
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Sew a Button
Stitch selector
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Zigzag foot
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of zigzag stitch
with
mark
_he needle
hole
leaving
thread
in the button
the shank,
a 20 cm (8")
down
cut
tail,
through
and wind it around
the
Bring
the
uid
5. Set the stitch selector at the far right of zigzag stitch mark "!€_,_" again and
sew a few stitches to lock thread.
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Stitch Iength
12 to 24 Stitch length
Top thread tension Top _hreacl tension
control 1 to 4 I
O"
centroI 1 to 4 i
Helpful Hints \
The Stitch and Its Uses
Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that
raw corner of your seam. If you start you might use a zigzag stitch.
right at the edge, the fabric wilt bunch
Zigzag foot Zigzag foot This stitch can be used as a decorative
up and the stitches will become
top stitch as well.
tangled.
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St{tch selector
Stitch length
Blue Zone'=if'to 24
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4 _1_
Seam Finishing Mending
Place the fabric under the presser foot Position the tear under the needle so
so that the edge will be slightly inside that the stitching will catch both sides.
the right hand side of the presser foot.
Z_gzag foot
Guide the work so the right hand
stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
Stitch selector
t,
i 2[_ 4
Stitch length
_ Blue Zone
2
• a. Carefully mark the buttonhole 2. a, Move the slider (A) toward you 3. a. Set the stitch selector at _E].
TOp thread tension /'?-/.._ e\_
length on your garment. so that the top mark (C) on the b. Sew forward until you reach the
slider meets the start mark (B),
b. Change to the buttonhole guide front marking of your button-
foot. b. Line up the markings on the hole.
foot with the top mark on your
c. Insert the garment under the c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
foot with the buttonhole mark- garment.
4. a.Setthestitchselector
at_. 5. a.Setthestitchserector
at [_3. 6. a. Set the stitch selector at =_. 7, Remove the fabric and cut the hole
b.Sew4 to6 stitches. b.Sewuntilyoureachthebackof b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. open with the buttonhole opener in
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Set the Machine
Zipper teeth
Stitch selector
1/8")
rend of opening
Zipper tape
Top side
of fabric
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Stitch length
Top thread tension 12
control 3 to 6 Top edge of fabric
,/
Fold back the left seam allowance set the zipper foot on the left side
Put the top sides of the fabric to- 1.
of the needle.
gether and sew to the end of the zip- as shown.
per opening. Use the reverse to lock 2. 5. Lower the zipper foot on the top
Turn under the right seam allow-
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Ztpper foo_
the stitches. ance to form a 1/8"' fold. side at the bottom of the zipper
so that the needle pierces the fold
Sew the zipper opening with stitch 3. Place the zipper teeth next to the
and the zipper tape,
length at "6" and top thread tension 1/8" fold and pin in place.
at "3"'. 6. Sew through the fold and the zip-
per tape to the point where the
slider begins.
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: i¸¸ ¸ ¸
8. Open thezipper. 10. Close the zipper and turn the 11. To sew the right side of the zip- 14. Stop about 2" from the top of the
9, Lower the presser foot and stitch fabric top side Up. per, set the zipper foot on the zipper.
CORDING
NOTE:
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Stitch selector
I 1 cm (3/8")
Stitch length
Top thread tension 1
control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
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Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
I mproper th reading. Rethread machine.
Loose upper thread tension. Tighten upper thread tension.
Irregular Stitches Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin. Rewind bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Upper and lower threads not drawn back When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
Bunching of Thread under presser foot before starting seam. back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are
formed.
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Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Certain knits and synthetics. Use "Q NEEDLE%.
Skipping Stitches Bent or blunt needle, Insert new needle.
Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle.
Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension,
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To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times.
The feed dogs and shuttle race areas can attract dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread
is caught.
Check and clean those areas about every three months under normal use.
If you sew frequently, clean more often.
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• Clean the Feed Dogs
• J
1. Unplug the machine and open the
face cover.
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1. Using a screw driver, remove 2. Use a tint brush and clean the feed 3. Replace needle plate into position.
2. Push the bulb up and turn the needle plate, dogs.
bulb counter-clockwise to remove
it.
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This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Clean the shuttle race area
about every three months.
Center pin of
the shuttle Shuttle driver
Leve "_
S.u. ,o.oee
k po,nto7
case
Cover
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1. Raise the needle bar to its highest 1, Position shuttle race as illustrated so that shuttle
point and remove the bobbin case. driver is forming a half moon on the Ieft side of the
3. Clean the shuttle race with a lint to form a half moon on the right side. Pointed hook
4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of 3. Place shuttle race cover into place over shuttle
the shuttle and shuttle race. Do not assembly.
over-oil. 4. Snap the levers back into the original position. f
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Oil the machine in all areas shown on the next two pages at }east once a year; otherwise the machine can become sluggish or will knock loudly. If you
use the machine frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months. In case machine is not used for an extended time, oil it
before sewing. Use good quality sewing machine oil. One or two drops of oil is sufficient. Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabric.
• Oil behind the Face Cover Plate • Oil under the Top Cover
F f
Open face cover plate and oil points in i}lustration. Remove top cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head. To remove cover plate,
Use only a drop of oil; do not over-oil. loosen up two top screws and lift the cover plate as illustrated.
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PARTS LIST All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co. store or
service center.
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
7 8 9 11 1 47 Shuttle
10 12 13
2 6510 Bobbin case
3 *6862 Bobbin box with 10 bobbins
4 1939 Bobbin winder rubber ring
5 8286 Thread spool pin
6 102403202 Spool pin feJt
7 813404013 No. 1 1 Stretch fabric needles (BLU)
6551 No. 11 Single needles (ORG)
6552 No. 14 Single needles (RED)
6553 No. 16 Single needles (PUn)
14 15 16 17 18 19 20 6554 No. 18 Single needles (GRN)
*6746 "Q NEEDLES"
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8 36353 Needle clamp with screw
9 648801005 Buttonhole guide foot
10 650802003 Straight stitch foot
11 4039O Standard zigzag foot
12 6870 Satin stitch foot
13 593401008 Zipper foot
14 *6757 Zipper foot
15 *6864 Needle threader
16 6797 Light bu Ib
21 22
17 40164 Motor belt
33379 Motor belt
18 6830 Buttonhole opener
23 19 802424004 Lint brush
20 820832005 Large screw driver
21 41669 Small screw driver
22 *6889 Oil and lint brush
23 649802009 Darning plate
*These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per
instructions above.
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Shuttle race ...................... 40
Appliqueing ...................... 27 Invisible zipper .................... 35
Smocking ..................... 21,36
L Spool pin felt .................. 3, 5, 43
B
Spool pins .................... 3, 5, 43
Bar tacking ....... " ............. 20, 27 Light and power switch .............. 3, 4
Stitch length adjustment ............. 18
Base ............................ 2 Light bulb ................... 4, 39, 43
Stitch length control ................ 18
Basic zigzag .................... 20, 25 Lint brush ................... 3, 39, 43
Stitch selector .................... 18
Bobbin .................... !1, t3,43
M Straight stitching ........ 20, 22, 24, 34_36
Bobbin case ............... 11, 13, 40, 43
Straight stitch foot ......... 3, 7, 20_24, 43
Bobbin thread .................. 15_16 Monogramming ................... 28
Straight stretch stitching ........... 21, 24
Bobbin winding ................. 11_12
Buttonhole ................. 21, 32_33 N
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Buttonhole guide foot .... 3, 8, 21, 32_33, 43 Needle ....................... 9_10
Thread guide ................. 3, I4_15
Buttonhole opener ............. 3, 33, 43 Needle clamp .................... 3, 43
Thread take-up lever ............... 2, 14
Button sewing .................. 20, 29 Needle plate .................... 2, 39 Thread tensions ................. 16"17
Needle, th read and fabric chart ......... 10
C Three-step zigzag ................ 21,31
Top cover ...................... 3, 41
Cabinet .......................... 2 0
Topstitching ................... 20, 23
Changing presser foot ................ 7 Oiling ........................ 41_42 Top thread .................... 14_17
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race .... 39_40 Overcasting stitch .................. 30 Top thread tension ............... 16_17
uid
Foot control .................... 3_4 Satin stitch foot .......... 3, 20, 26_28, 43
Free arm sewing .................. 5_6 Satin stitching .................. 20, 26
Seam guides ...................... 22
H Sewing light ....................... 4
Hand wheel ..................... 3, 15 Shuttle ....................... 40, 43
44
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
Ill,
_) WARRANTY #
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For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear
in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head.
For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which
appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including electronic components, motor, wiring, switch and
# speed control.
- For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service
necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.
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- WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES.
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A) This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts
or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when
you call or visit.
The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of
your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.
WHEN ORDER ING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears
Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.