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Sharing Culture or Selling Out?

Developing the Commodified Persona in the Heritage


Industry
Author(s): Alexis Celeste Bunten
Source: American Ethnologist, Vol. 35, No. 3 (Aug., 2008), pp. 380-395
Published by: Wiley on behalf of the American Anthropological Association
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/27667498
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ALEXIS CELESTE BUNTEN
University of California, Berkeley

Sharing culture or selling out?


Developing the commodified persona in the heritage industry

ABSTRACT "I am going to tell you one of the most important


tory of Sitka, Alaska." The Native storyteller make
Native American professionals in the heritage
toward the small patch of grass in front of him. P
industry often describe their work as "sharing
and bushy
culture" when they are involved in processes of spruce trees threaten to engulf the well-
which
transforming features of their cultures is flanked
into alienable on one side by the Pacific Ocea
side by steep, rugged mountains. Pointing to the Or
products for consumption. Participation in the
in one corner of the grass, he continues, "It is the
heritage industry can be a powerful catalyst for local
that took place right here between the Tlingits a
cultural reproduction, but it also poses a danger to
by the great Tlingit warrior, Shk'awuly?il, many g
those aspects of culture that Natives consciously
Shk'awuly?il who I am named after." The storytelle
protect from com modification. Drawinganfrom a caseof the events leading up to what is now
account
study of a Native American-owned cultural-tourism
Battle of 1802. He begins with the ancestors of toda
business in Alaska, I explore the ways those
that tourism
people who founded Sheet'ka, drawn to Shee I
workers respond to this threat through canoes
the by the flashing lights of Lu'x, a now-dorman
last active
construction of what I call a "commodified some 10,000 years ago. Finding Shee Islan
persona."
round,
[cultural com modification, representation, abundant
Northwest in fish and deer, and geographic
Coast, tourism] marauding tribes, the ancestors stayed and devel
complex society. When Russian ships arrived in sou
ters in 1741, they encountered Sheet'ka, a thriving T
ited by several clans, among them the powerful Kiks
Shk'awuly?il the warrior and of the storyteller. Duri
mission, the Russians saw that Sheet'ka was reple
sources on land and in its surrounding waters an
lar, its large population of sea otters. Propelled by
that could be made through the trade of sea-otter fu
the Russian American Company set up a fort a few m
git settlement at a place known as G?jaa H?en. Th
Aleuts from the east, having enslaved them for the
sea otters. The local Tlingits tolerated the Russia
assisted the foreigners with subsistence at times un
gan to disrespect Tlingit laws. Without asking perm
began to hunt and fish on lands and in waterways w
longed to the local clans. Even more barbaric, the R
selves on Tlingit women, stealing them from their

AMERICAN ETHNOLOGIST, Vol. 35, No. 3, pp. 380-395, ISSN 0094-049


ISSN 1548-1425. ? 2008 by the American Anthropological Association.
DOI: 10.HH/j.1548-1425.2008.00041.x

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Sharing culture or selling out? American Ethnologist

Tlingits had had enough. They organized an attack on background to create a commercial image, as "gangsta" rap
the Russian fort, led by Shk'awuly?il. Despite Russian pers do; and putting one's best face forward, as in a job
munitions, the Tlingits massacred every man who was interview. Self-commodification, thus, involves any type of
unlucky enough to be at the fort that day. As a grisly product performance that requires the individual to ad
warning to any Russians who dared return to the fort just his or her values, emotions, or both, to achieve an
site, Shk'awuly?il and his men placed the heads of their
economic goal, as Arlie Hochschild (1983) describes in
slain enemies on staffs that they planted on the bloody
her seminal publication on the emotional labor of airline
battlefield. At that moment, a bald eagle flies over
attendants.
head emitting a piercing shriek, and a couple of audi
ence members listening to the story jump up startled, In addition to Hochschild's case study, analyses of self
brought back to the present moment. commodifying activities include Sasha David's (2007) dis
cussion of talent managers who manipulate their personas
to market themselves and the actors they represent in Hol
lthough this story has been passed down for gen lywood, Brent Luvaas's (2006) analysis of independent-label
Aerations among Sitka's Native people, the audi musicians' use of pop aesthetics to fashion an ironic anti
ence that day was not Tlingit. It was composed commercial image; and Ann Julienne Russ's (2005) take on
of tourists from the lower 48 states who were on the increasing commodification of hospice workers' emo
a cruise of Alaska's famed "inside passage" and tional labor that crosses the boundaries between char
who had stopped in Sitka for a day. For Tlingit listeners, this ity and profit making, life and death. These studies em
story is empowering. It reminds them that, at one time, their phasize the complicated and often-contradictory nature
people successfully defeated and drove away their coloniz of self-commodifying activities, they go beyond analyzing
ers in battle. The storyteller was a Native tour guide named self-presentation in terms of impression management, and
Jackson who worked for Sitka Tribe of Alaska's subsidiary they confront simplistic critiques of self-commodification
business, Tribal Tours.1 Tribal Tours markets Tlingit cultural as "selling out" or "being exploited," arguing, instead, for a
and historical tours of the city of Sitka from a Native point more agentive perspective on the processes involved. The
of view. With over ten years of experience as a tour guide concept of "self-commodification" as I have defined it here
within the local tourism industry, Jackson carefully crafted unleashes a new means to analyze the domains in which
his presentation of self. From his hospitable manners to his emotional labor, identity construction, and the politics of
sense of humor, his well-groomed appearance, and the sto representation converge within the constantly changing
ries he told on tour, Jackson's efforts at tailoring his tour field of late capitalism.
to please his customers paid off. He was among the most In the context of the heritage industry, self
highly tipped and sought-after tour guides in Sitka. commodification is a dual process; it is both an economic
When I trained to become a tour guide for Tribal Tours response to the global expansion of the service sector and a
in 2003 as part of my research looking into the ways that politically motivated expression of identity. The emotional
Native people package and present their heritage for con labor, combined with the cross-cultural skills necessary
sumption,2 Jackson gave me this good advice: "It doesn't re to entertain groups of tourists, contributes to the Native
ally matter if you forget your tour script, or forget to take tour guide's construction of a commodified persona. The
your group somewhere promised on the tour brochure. The practices of constructing a commodified persona involve
tourists pay to see you! If they like you, you are doing your representation of cultural uniformity as a simplifying trope,
job well." Over the years, Jackson had learned to gauge feed self-exoticizing as the Other, polyvocal alternations of iden
back from tourists to shape his presentation of self, a prod tity culled from a repertoire of possibilities, and rejection of
uct I term a commodified persona. stereotyping through covert acts of resistance. The factors
In this article, I develop a general theory of "self that produce a "commodified persona" may shift in con
commodification" in the cultural-tourism setting that takes texts outside the cultural-tourism setting, but the tension
into account the pressures cultural-tourism workers ex between structure and agency implicit in these processes is
perience in representing themselves according to cross present in examples that are increasingly visible in various
cultural models. In addition to outside market pressures, sectors of contemporary life. The self-commodification
forces operating within workers, both psychological factors taking place at the tourist site is conducted within a well
and culturally mediated values, drive processes of self ordered political-economic framework. However, there is
commodification. Self-commodification can be broadly room at the individual level to respond to both micro- and
defined as a set of beliefs and practices in which an in macrostructural domains and even to confront them.
dividual chooses to construct a marketable identity prod Ultimately, the tourism worker expresses free choice
uct while striving to avoid alienating him- or herself. Other over the way he constructs a commodified persona, but
forms of self-commodification may include self-branding these choices affect the market value of the self as a com
of the sort Oprah Winfrey engages in; exploiting one's social modity3 If the commodified persona that is created is

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American Ethnologist Volume 35 Number 3 August 2008

(drawn from imagery found in mainstream media) and of this type of cross-cultural encounter in which a specific
an expression of likeable individuality, the tour guide will type of human interaction is marketed.
not earn enough profit to make his job worthwhile. There I organize this discussion around the characteristics
fore, performance is an intrinsic aspect of the commodified of the commodified persona. First, I describe the setting
persona. The mandatory performance of the Other in the of this case study and situate the concept of "cultural
cultural-tourism setting is a critical activity, which reflects commodification" within scholarly works, paying partic
the double consciousness implicit in the representation of ular attention to those that treat tourism. The body of
ethnic identity within the typically hegemonic encounter. the article subsequently contextualizes processes of self
In this setting, Native American tour guides both enact and commodification. I unpack each element of the commod
refute their non-Native clients' demands to experience Na ified persona, culling from observations I gathered while
tive culture based on popular notions attached to Native working for Tribal Tours.
American identity. Simultaneously, these workers must ne
gotiate local cultural guidelines concerning what is appro
priate to share with outsiders. In other words, although in
Setting
dustry standards seek to regulate and homogenize Native
tour guides' personas and tours, guides turn to local cul The ethnographic data presented in this article are based on
tural models to shape their presentations of self. Thus, cul research that took place over a two-year period from 2003
tural commodification is a coproduction between hosts and to 2005. During this time, I worked as "all around staff" for
guests, mediated by multiple culturally based concepts of Tribal Tours, a cultural-tourism business based in Sitka and
what it means to be a member of a Native American tribe. owned and operated by Sitka Tribal Enterprises.5 I also at
(Although I focus in this article on a specific, Native Alaskan, tended the American Indian Alaska Native Tourism Asso
example, the process can apply to any group of subaltern ciation's annual conventions to situate my research within
people who choose to display themselves for pay to mem the broader political economy of Native American tourism.
bers of a dominant society.) By choosing to work as a member of Tribal Tours' staff, I
Finally, processes of self-commodification are flexible. was able to explore the day-to-day processes of cultural rep
After all, the commodified persona is a heuristic formed resentation, commodification, and perpetuation that oc
through human interaction. The worker who creates a com curred while I interacted with coworkers both during and
modified persona, I argue, is better equipped to manage the outside of work hours. Ironically, few anthropologists who
emotion work that is part and parcel of touristic interac look at issues surrounding cultural tourism have been able
tion than the unprepared worker, who shares himself with to successfully work inside the industry (other than in the
strangers openly and unselfconsciously. The commodified role of "the hired anthropologist"). Most anthropologists
persona is not, as so many aspects of tourism are accused looking at tourism base their findings on brief trips to exotic
of being, a simulacrum, but it may be compartmentalized destinations, much like those of tourists themselves. And
to the workplace. Within the context of the cultural tour, their research is more often focused on the experience of
Native guides have the power to choose how to respond the tourist than on that of the cultural producer.
to the tourist gaze.4 Whereas the commodified persona is Sitka is a popular tourist destination sustained primar
constructed to meet tourist desires for an encounter with ily by the cruise industry. Surrounded by mountains on one
the Other, the person behind it usually does not openly ac side and the Pacific Ocean on the other side, Sitka is located
cept himself as an object, the ultimate human commodity, on Baranov Island along the fjords of the southeast Alaskan
and therefore openly resists being objectified according to panhandle. Wildlife is abundant; spotting a bald eagle, a sea
stereotypes. Outside of the context of work, the commodi lion, and a humpback whale in the same day is not unusual.
fied persona is usually put to rest. Sitka's history is as fascinating as the city is beautiful. Walk
Too often, the Natives in the cultural-tourism enter ing down the main street, visitors see the Russian Ortho
prise are described as having been coerced into partici dox cathedral, whose original building dates to the 1840s,
pating in the creation and performance of an inauthentic among other buildings that survive from the U.S. colonial
product, a view that strips both them and the tourists who period that followed the transfer of Alaska from Russia to
pay to encounter them of any honorable intentions. In fact, the United States in 1867. The Tlingit "village" part of town
the cross-cultural experience mediated through tourism lies along a waterfront street perpendicular to the end of the
is much more complex. My data suggest that Native tour main street. Originally a Tlingit settlement, Sitka was once
guides are sophisticated culture brokers who often very the capital of Russian America, called by Russian enthusi
thoughtfully put together cohesive commodified personas asts the "Paris of the Pacific" during its heyday in the early
drawn from multiple cultural frameworks. Analyzing these 19th century as the busiest seaport on the West Coast. Be
processes helps to explain why an individual would choose cause of its natural beauty, unique history, and Native peo
to display himself as the Other and sheds light on the nature ples, Sitka has a rich history of tourism dating back to the

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Sharing culture or selling out? American Ethnologist

advent of regular steamship passage between West Coast wildlife tours by boat; outdoor activities ranging from sport
ports and Alaska in the 1870s. fishing to kayaking, biking, and hiking; and flightseeing by
Shortly after the transfer of Alaska to U.S. ownership, plane or helicopter.
news of the territory's natural wonders began to trickle Although meeting "authentic Alaskans" is high on the
down to the lower 48 states, as military men, outdoors priority lists of most people visiting the state, the aver
men, adventurers, prospectors, and surveyors wrote home age tourist is unlikely to encounter Native culture unmedi
to tell about their experiences in the far north. South ated by tourism. The best places for tourists to learn about
east Alaska Natives have participated in the tourist econ Sitka's Native cultures are the Southeast Alaskan Cultural
omy from its inception, eagerly selling their handicrafts Center at the Sitka National Historic Park and the Sheldon
to tourists seeking mementos. Carefully crafting their pre Jackson Museum, both of which offer exhibits of Tlingit
sentations of self as part of these transactions came easily material culture and Native art demonstrations. By far the
to early Tlingit tourism entrepreneurs. Nineteenth-century most comprehensive way to learn about historical and con
Tlingits were savvy profiteers who avoided the middleman, temporary local Tlingit culture is to take a tour with Sitka
greeting tourists as they walked off the gangplanks of their Tribe of Alaska's Tribal Tours. In fact, several of Tribal Tours'
steamships and onto the dock, where Native women sold a products include interpreted visits to the Sheldon Jack
"great many wares of their own manufacture, such as bas son Museum and Sitka National Historical Park in addition
kets, hats, and stockings, also canes and miniature totem to a guided cultural tour of the city and a Native dance
poles, manufactured by their husbands or brothers" (Hinck performance.
ley 1996:255). In addition to purchasing artifacts, tourists I found Tribal Tours to be an excellent site for looking
could pay to be photographed with a Native or, some at self-commodification within the Native-owned cultural
times, to see a dance performance.6 Sitka even boasted tourism industry. Over the past ten years, a proliferation
a faux "Indian Princess," who became wealthy by acting of Native American-owned and operated cultural-tourism
as an intermediary between Native artisans and prospec sites have opened their doors to the visiting public. Op
tive buyers (Hinckley 1965, 1996; Kan 2004). From their erating since 1994, Tribal Tours is one of the longer
earliest participation in the tourist economy, Tlingit en established Native-owned cultural-tourism enterprises in
trepreneurs supplied tourist demands for artifacts, pictures, the state of Alaska. In terms of scale and accessibility, Tribal
and dances, but they met these demands somewhat on Tours proved an ideal case study. Tribal Tours employs
their own terms.7 The heyday of Victorian tourism was over approximately 10 year-round staff and about 35 seasonal
in a few short decades, and by WWII, tourism in Sitka had workers. Sitka's population is just under 9,000 year-round
ground to a halt, not to return again until the late 1960s. residents, of which approximately 20 percent identify them
During the hiatus, Sitka's Native people maintained the selves as Alaska Native or American Indian (U.S. Census
skills to represent themselves to outsiders in a manner that Bureau 2000). Many members of Sitka's Native population,
continues to suit their needs. who are predominantly Tlingit, actively participate in ac
Over the past ten years, Sitka's cruise passenger totals tivities that can be described as "traditional culture," such
have fluctuated between 150,000 and 275,000 passen as maintaining the clan-based social system, following the
gers annually.8 Tourism is a major source of revenue subsistence lifestyle, and participating in ceremonial life.10
and employment for the small city, whose other major Not surprisingly, most of Tribal Tours employees fit into the
economic engines are commercial fishing, education, Tlingit social structure.11 This setting was ideal for me, as a
health care, recreational fishing, and marine fabrication researcher interested in connections between the construc
and repair.9 In contrast to other popular tourism practices tion of cultural representation intended for outside con
that appeal to consumer desires for sun, sea, sex, and sumption and cultural production within the local Tlingit
so on, Alaska promotes a specific image that appeals to community.
mainstream U.S. nostalgia for (using phrases found in one Perhaps more importantly, Tribal Tours fits many of
cruise line's marketing brochures) "the great land," "the last the criteria I have identified as shared by Native-owned
vast wilderness," or the "land of adventure," as an antidote cultural-tourism venues in Alaska and beyond. The grow
to the modern quotidian lives of most Americans. Visitors ing Alaska Native cultural-tourism industry is part of a
to the state often describe their reasons for visiting in larger sphere of indigenous practices around the world
terms of "seeing for themselves" Alaska's pristine, untamed in which economic independence, self-determination, cul
wilderness. Market research confirms that tourists' primary tural sovereignty, and the maintenance of indigenous tra
interests include wilderness, wildlife, and scenic beauty, ditions are linked. In the context of Native-owned and op
followed by experiencing (traditional) Native Alaskan erated tourism, tying together the project of perpetuating
cultures (McDowell Group 2001). As a major destination, traditional culture while providing economic opportunities
Sitka offers several sightseeing options that fit mainstream for tribal citizens is not an option; it is a necessity. Unlike
consumer demands, from motor-coach city tours to marine tourism enterprises operated by non-Natives, indigenous

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American Ethnologist Volume 35 Number 3 August 2008

tourism is almost always married to cultural sovereignty as ing the cross-cultural component into the analysis of these
part of a strategy to employ identity politics in larger arenas social encounters.
of concern for the indigenous population, such as retaining The mere ability to travel to places inaccessible prior
or reclaiming history, control over representation, surface to advances in transportation and communications has de
and subsurface land rights, and political sovereignty. segregated traditional trade systems, gift systems, and mar
Sovereignty is typically substantiated through claims kets, as Arjun Appadurai points out, "bringing about the
of authenticity based on a historical time line of contin commoditization of an ever wider range of things and ac
ued tradition. Authenticity is used to justify identity and, tivities" (1986:380). He elaborates, "Dealings with strangers
consequently, gives value to the cultural-tourism experi ... provide contexts for the commoditization of things that
ence. After all, tourism banks on the commercialization of are otherwise protected from commoditization" (Appadu
authentic places, people, and experiences legitimized by rai 1986:15). Through commodification, tourism forces the
claims of tradition. The relationship between authenticity objectification of human relations. The tourist encounter
and cultural tourism, however, is paradoxical. On the one epitomizes what Georg Simmel describes in "The Stranger"
hand, the global spread of consumerist culture is often at (1950): When brought together, individuals unknown to
tacked for destroying cultural authenticity. On the other each other are likely to objectify the other and, thereby, de
hand, I would argue, tourism acts as a catalyst for com viate from social norms of conduct. According to this logic,
munities who take part in this industry to generate height interactions across cultures made possible through tourism
ened awareness of (and, consequently, efforts to preserve can easily break down the boundaries of what can be con
maintain) authenticity and tradition.12 Thus, developing an sidered "a commodity."
analysis of self-commodification allows for a more nuanced Commodifying the cross-cultural experience in the
understanding of the links between the expanding cultural tourism setting problematizes the divide between what is
tourism industry and practices of identity politics.13 thought possible to buy and sell. In this setting, a quanti
tative, monetary value is placed on culture, something be
Cultural commodification and tourism lieved to have qualitative value. Davydd Greenwood asks,
"Can culture be considered a commodity?" (1989:172).
When pared down to its simplest form, tourism is "commer Greenwood's commentary on this subject is worth quoting
cialized hospitality," both a result of and resulting in depen at length here,
dency relationships. Erik Cohen writes, "Social exchange
between hosts and guests, based on principles of the hos Logically, anything that is for sale must have been pro
pitality characteristic of the gift, now becomes largely re duced by combining the factors of production (land,
placed by economic exchange and the profit motive, often labor, or capital). This offers no problem when the
masquerading behind a phony front of friendliness or even subject is razor blades, transistor radios, or hotel ac
servility" (1988:308). The commercialization of hospitality commodations. It is not so clear when buyers are at
tracted to a place by some feature of the local culture,
requires that hosts employ emotional labor (Hochschild
such as the running of the bulls in Pamplona, an ap
1983) to subdue the forced nature of the intimacy forged
pearance of the Virgin Mary, or an exotic festival. ...
between themselves and their "guests." As part and parcel Economists tend to view local culture as a "natural re
of this form of intimacy, hosts must submit to the "tourist source" (that is, part of the land factor) ... but this ap
gaze" (Urry 1990), compounding the objectification (and, in proach is not very useful because in ethnic tourism,
a sense, the dehumanization) of the host in relation to the local culture is treated as a commodity sui generis.
tourist. The problem with this set of viewpoints is that, al [1989:173]
though some tourism-based relationships, especially in cul
tural tourism, are undoubtedly forced through structures of Greenwood does not view cultural commodification as
inequality, many are not. a positive outcome of tourism. He argues that local culture
Despite the real emotional strains often felt by hosts, is made inauthentic: "Altered, often destroyed by the treat
subaltern peoples willingly work in tourism, even when ment of it as a tourist attraction... it is made meaningless to
other forms of work are available. Their choice can be ex the people who once believed in it" (Greenwood 1989:173).
plained quite simply: Participants at the host level either Although things and behaviors become commodities as
experience greater benefits (material, political, and social) they are performed for touristic consumption, Greenwood's
from participating in tourism than costs they would in view does not take into account the basic premise that cul
cur from not participating or they are duped (presumably tural productions are not static entities, only "pure" when
through hegemonic influence) into not seeing the destruc untouched by outside influence, be it through social or cap
tive potential of commodifying themselves. I believe that italist penetration or both. In accord with Greenwood, Dean
another force is at work to influence the interactions be MacCannel (1973, 1976) claims that the tourist's desire for
tween hosts and guests; examining it requires incorpor?t authenticity is disrupted through the commercialization

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Sharing culture or selling out? American Ethnologist

and commodification of culture through touristic display. by-product of commodification, "founded upon this dispar
Nick Stanley refers to this perspective as "the tradition of ity between the productive power of labor, which becomes
melancholia" (1998:150), in which ethnographic display is increasingly great with the expansion of capitalism, and the
situated within a hegemonic global system that does not lack of control which the worker is able to exert over the ob
allow for plural meanings to emerge for participants in jects which he produces" (Giddens 1979:11). By construct
the cross-cultural encounter. Proponents of the tradition ing a commodified persona, the cultural-tourism worker
of melancholia assert that cultural demonstrations in the can gain control over the product of his labor, namely, him
tourism setting are inherently exploitative and inauthentic. self. To the extent that the worker wants to earn a living
Alternatively, Stanley proposes viewing ethnographic dis and the tourism venue wants repeat customers, the worker
play positively, "preferring instead to enquire whether and has little control over the parameters within which he must
under what conditions individuals and groups may sustain present himself; these constraints are manifested as culture
their sense of identity through performance in a postmod as a unifying trope and self-exotification as the Other. How
ern world" (1998:151). Cohen shares this perspective: ever, by presenting himself from a repertoire of possibili
ties and covertly resisting stereotypes implicit in the tourist
One has to bear in mind that commoditization often
gaze, the Native tour guide exerts agency to shift the ways
hits a culture not when it is flourishing, but when it that outsiders view him and shapes his commodified per
is actually already in decline, owing to the impinge
sona to best suit his reality and life experience.
ment of outside forces preceding tourism. Under such
circumstances, the emergence of a tourist market fre
quently facilitates the preservation of a cultural tradi Cultural uniformity as a simplifying trope
tion, which would otherwise perish. It enables bearers
to maintain a meaningful local or ethnic identity which Perhaps the most glaring feature of cultural commodifi
they might have otherwise lost. [1988:382] cation in the tourism setting is the routinization of cul
tural representation. Most cultural-tourism sites follow pre
I believe that this premise aligns more accurately with dictable formats, presenting aspects of local culture that are
"what really happens" in the cross-cultural tourism setting. fixed in a precolonial past, in which men and women on dis
Self-commodification is not a continuous, steady state of play follow gender roles, wear traditional garb, and perform
being, and feelings of being commodified differ from per traditional songs and dances. Remarking on this, Barbara
son to person. I doubt that most people involved in activi Kirshenblatt-Gimblett writes, "Sameness is a problem the
ties of self-commodification would label themselves "inau [tourism] industry faces. Standardization is part and par
thentic" or "invaluable" exemplars of their cultural identity, cel of the economies of scale that high-volume tourism re
as proponents of the tradition of melancholia purport. Nei quires ... the industry requires a reliable product that meets
ther do they enjoy thinking of themselves as objects or com universal standards, despite the dispersal of that product
modities.14 According to Igor Kopytoff, an object's value (or, across many widely separated locations" (1998:152).
in the case of this argument, an individual's ethnic iden Standardization of services is crucial in places like
tity) is dependent on the contextualized cultural meaning Sitka, whose tourism base relies on the cruise-ship indus
ascribed to it. Through the processes of commodifying Na try. The cruise industry has enjoyed vast increases in rev
tive culture, Tribal Tours employees are involved in a "moral enue and popularity over the past decade, which can be
economy" play (Cheal 1996; Kopytoff 1986); they must put attributed to two main factors. First, cruises are now more
a price on presenting tourists with a taste of Tlingit cul affordable to middle-income households than ever before,
ture for an hour or two, according to both Western con and they simplify vacationing by relieving passengers of the
sumers' and local Native assessments of the value of this ex grueling work of itinerary making. Second, on a cruise, ev
perience. What is missing from the dialogue concerning the erything is predictable in terms of cleanliness, service, and
commodification of people within the tourism context is a price. Because Sitka is one of southeast Alaska's ports of call
discussion of how the Native hosts come to exercise, expe for many cruise lines, over the years Tribal Tours has grown
rience, and reflect on their activities of making themselves in part by catering to the cruise market.
into commodities. Cultural-tourism sites typically share the same tech
The processes of transforming identity into a commod niques for staging and presenting culture to outside au
ity, in which "ethnicity or authenticity cease simply to 'be'? diences. They follow what I describe as "the cultural
to have use-value?but come to have exchange value in tourism formula." The cultural-tourism formula requires
a cultural system which peddles numerous formulae for the tourism site to have most, if not all, of these ele
translating between, or exchanging, things and categories ments: the greeting, the guide, demonstrated use of the her
which would be though incommensurable in other 'modal itage language, traditional architecture, a performance, a
ities' " (Stronza 2001:265), tend to alienate the worker from gift shop or souvenirs for sale, and, often, demonstrations
himself. The Marxist framework describes alienation as a of traditional Native crafts.15 Native tour guides are given

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American Ethnologist Volume 35 Number 3 August 2008

extensive training in "commodification of hospitality," dur clan house, tourists are escorted into the main auditorium
ing which they learn the structures of host-guest interaction of the building and seated in chairs set up in a semicir
according to the cultural norms of the guest (assuming that cle around a central "traditional" fire pit. At the far end of
the guest is Western). The interactions between host and the room is a Western-style stage on which the Native Naa
guest are carefully orchestrated into exchanges in which Kahidi Dancers perform Tlingit dances that are narrated
the guest feels "safe" around a host with whom he or she translated by a master of ceremonies. After the dance show,
might normally be uncomfortable fraternizing. Throughout tourists may take pictures and chat with the dancers. Al
the experience, all communication follows Western perfor though the Tribal Tours product is unique in cultural, spa
mative, oratorical standards. A guide narrates the tour in a tial, and historical content, it resembles many cultural tours
linear fashion and describes what tourists are seeing at each throughout the world.
moment. Erasure is a major tool used to shape the cultural It is precisely this predictability, the presentation of the
tourism site. The contemporary reality of what it is like to same culture in the same way over and over to fresh groups
be a member of the culture in reference is not fully dis of tourists, that appeals to the middlemen in the tourist in
closed. Unpleasant facts, both historical and present-day dustry who broker tours between vendors such as Tribal
particularly those that have something to do with negative Tours and cruise lines. When it comes to cultural tourism,
effects of colonization, can be omitted from the represen consumers want to know exactly what is going to take
tation altogether. Moreover, heterogeneity is erased in favor place during the encounter with their hosts; this places Na
of a standardized tour script. Following the cultural-tourism tive tourism professionals in a paradoxical position. Many
formula, the cultural-tourism site sanitizes culture, neatly wish to present their cultures according to local values, but
packaging it so as neither to offend nor overload the visitor they know that to make a profit from the tourism indus
with overwhelming amounts of information. try, they must adapt to industry univers als. Ruth Phillips
Cultural-tourism workers learn to navigate, work with, and Christopher Steiner observe, "The inscription of West
and maintain these aspects of ethnographic display as crit ern modes of commodity production has been one of the
ical components of their labor. The cultural-tourism for most important aspects of the global extension of Western
mula is repeated at destinations worldwide. Scholars have colonial power. Moreover, the role of this process in trans
written about some of these attractions, including the Poly forming indigenous constructions of the object has inten
nesian Cultural Center in Lavie, Hawafi (Stanton 1989); sified, rather than diminished in many parts of the world"
the Masai attraction at Mayer's Ranch in Kenya (Bruner (1999:4). So, although attempts have been made in vary
and Kirshenblatt-Gimblett 1994); the Tjibao Cultural Cen ing locations to develop truly indigenous cultural attrac
ter in Noumea, New Caledonia (LeFevre 2004); the North tions, nearly all successful venues must reference Western
west Coast Native Tillicum Village near Seattle, Washington paradigms of cultural representation.
(Johnson and Underiner 2001); and the Yunaan Nationali
ties Village in Kunming, China (Bruner 2005). To gain a feel
Self-exoticizing as the Other
ing for the real global presence of the formula, one need
only perform an Internet search: type in the name of a non For it to be marketed and sold, culture must be packaged
Western group of people, and a host of websites will be according to consumers' desires, desires that are informed
found describing cultural attractions that fit the cultural by specific ideas about what constitutes the value of
tourism-formula profile. non-Western culture, art, literature, medicine, and bodies.
Tribal Tours' success can be attributed in part to follow In the same way that Native arts are simplified for non
ing the cultural-tourism formula. The tourist begins his or Native consumption (Graburn 1976), culture itself must
her Tribal Tours experience with a greeting by a Native tour be simplified for tourist consumption, with the culture on
guide. All Tribal Tours guides are recognizable by their uni display transformed into iconic visuals such as traditional
forms: black slacks, a white or red polo shirt, a Northwest dress, digestible sound bites such as a greeting in the
Coast-style button vest, and a red and white Tribal Tours Native tongue, and standardized ethnographic information
jacket (red and white are the main colors used in Tlingit art presented on tour. Self-exoticizing requires the Native
and regalia) adorned with the company's Northwest Coast tour guide to present a simplified version of the self that
style logo depicting the Tlingit eagle and raven moieties. conforms to Western concepts of the Other popularized
The guide greets the tour group in both the Tlingit and En in television, movies, books, museums, and the marketing
glish languages. The guide drives the group through Sitka, efforts of tour operators.16 Jennifer Craik points out that
pointing out historical sites of interest in the manner of any "cultural experiences offered by tourism are consumed
motor-coach tour guide anywhere in the world. Many of in terms of prior knowledge, expectations, fantasies, and
Tribal Tours' itineraries include a stop at the Sheet'ka Kwaan mythologies" (1997:119) generated in the tourist's origin
Naa Kahidi Community House, an architecturally accurate culture rather than by the cultural offerings of the destina
replica of a precontact Tlingit clan house. Once inside the tion. K. M. Adams agrees that brochures and travel agents

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Sharing culture or selling out? American Ethnologist

provide tourists with a first glimpse of the locals through to nature" and, therefore, exist in a more natural or prim
"prepackaged ethnic stereotypes" (1984:470), which are itive state. According to this premise, Native Americans
later either reified or dismantled during the tourists' are enviable because they have traditions unfettered by
journeys.17 modernity, with its consumptive, urban trappings. In fact,
From tourists' first impression of them, Tribal Tours parts of the tour explicitly call for guides to present their
guides' appearances are exotic. Although guides have interconnectedness with the natural world. The tour script
very little control over their phenotypes, their uniforms directs guides to discuss subsistence food gathering when
immediately differentiate them from their customers. they make a stop at a local beach:
Members of the Naa Kahidi dance group appear even more
exotic than the tour guides; at work, they wear Tlingit re
The name Tlingit means "the tides people." The Tlin
galia, typically button blankets whose designs represent
the wearers' clan affiliations. Some dancers don additional git people survived on what the tides had provided as
the waters receded. There is a Tlingit saying, "when the
items such as headdresses, masks, and moccasins. Beyond tides go out, the table is set." The low tides would ex
the obligatory uniform, Tribal Tours' male employees may pose a variety of shellfish, intertidal plants and animals,
mark themselves as Native by growing their hair long, and and then these were harvested. Today, the Tlingit peo
many women wear Northwest Coast-style silver engraved ple harvest traditional foods and plants as they did in
bracelets or beaded earrings. the past. Smoking, canning, and drying would preserve
If the first visual impression does not satisfy tourists the harvest foods. The ocean waters also provide hal
that their guides are "authentic" Natives, the tour guides' ibut, salmon, seal, clams, crab, shrimp, abalone, and
introductions in the Tlingit language surely distinguish much more. The forest provides berries, wood, medic
them from their audience. According to the tour script that
inal plants, deer, bear. There are different times of
harvest depending on the type of food. For example
Tribal Tours management provides its workers, guides are
spring-herring, summer-berries, fall-salmon, winter
prompted to identify themselves according to their Tlingit deer.
names, the Tlingit place names of their ancestors' homes,
and the Tlingit clans to which they belong. If a guide does
not have a Tlingit name, he might state where he is from and Tour guides often go beyond the script and ad-lib dur
what (non-Tlingit) tribe he belongs to, but he does so in the ing their tours, discussing the use of local plants for food
Tlingit language. Guides also include plenty of Tlingit words and medicine, observations of animal behavior, and links
for plants, animals, places, foods, and so forth, throughout between the natural world and the Tlingit kinship system.
their tours. By speaking Tlingit in addition to the dominant One commonly practiced strategy of illustrating the con
English language that both guides and tourists share, Na nection that Native people have with the natural world in
tive guides index their identity as different, exotic. Paul V. volves describing things that are Native in opposition to
Kroskrity (2004) suggests that the dominant ideology, which the form that these same things take in contemporary con
explicitly indexes language to national identity, may have a sumer society. Local foods and medicines yield quite well
"trickle down" effect on subgroups within the state's bound to this kind of description. For example, one tour guide
aries. In this manner, Tribal Tours' guides strategically em stated, "In the old days, we filled cedar bowls with berries
ploy the Tlingit language to differentiate themselves from and congealed seal oil. That's how we made what you now
tour groups and simultaneously identify themselves as a call jars of jam." Walking through the forest, another guide
part of the Tlingit Nation. pointed out that, whereas the tourists might give their chil
The content of the tour itself tends to enable self dren Children's Tylenol for the flu, she gives her children a
exoticizing in two ways, first by highlighting the Tlingit tea made from a hanging moss whose Tlingit name trans
culture as it was before contact with Westerners, and, lates as "grandfathers' beard." Comparing what is "Native"
second, by contrasting Native culture to that of mainstream to what is "non-Native" in this manner, Tribal Tours' guides
white Americans. Kirshenblatt-Gimblett discusses "virtual assert their identities as Native, as Other.
ity" as a key aspect of the heritage-tourism site. She writes, Identifying themselves as the Other, tour guides
"Guides routinely refer to what cannot be seen?people, demonstrate difference between themselves and their pay
events, and places of years ago. They animate a phantom ing guests. Through self-exoticization as the Other, differ
landscape on the back of one towards which attention is ence itself becomes a commodity that tourists can consume
directed" (Kirshenblatt-Gimblett 1998:167). On tour, guides and potentially embody as part of their personhood. After
are active interpreters of a hyperreal past, invoking their all, as Stuart Hall (1989:16) contends, only when one knows
guests' imaginations of an "authentic" and exotic "natural" the Other does one know oneself. By exoticizing them
culture. They often draw on the stereotype of the "noble selves as the Other using Western ideologies of what being
savage," the idea that Native Americans are somehow Native American looks like, sounds like, and means, tour
"more authentic" than non-Natives because they are "close guides effectively alienate the commodified persona that

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American Ethnologist Volume 35 Number 3 August 2008

they construct from themselves through the performance tourists through hugs or slaps on the back. With Elderhos
of an allegory of Native identity. tel groups, guides give informative, historically rich tours,
adapting their personas to that of a formal, slightly de
tached instructor.18 On small, exclusive family-group tours,
Polyvocal alternations of identity culled from a
guides behave more or less informally, presenting a close
repertoire of possibilities
facsimile of their personalities outside of the workplace,
To be competitive within the tourism industry, Tribal Tours and they share more of their personal experiences than they
tailors its product to meet industry standards. Thus, the would on a larger tour.
tour format follows many of the same "guidelines" that Considering a repertoire of identities acknowledges the
cultural tours around the world do. Native tourism work agency implicit in the construction of the commodified per
ers follow a tour script and interact according to standard sona. The commodified persona does not blindly accom
modes of hospitality. Within this general structure, how modate tourist desires. Rather, it represents a give and take
ever, Tribal Tours encourages its tour guides to person between different cultural values attached to cultural rep
alize their tours, to draw from life experience and "talk resentation and transmission. Tourism workers who are too
about what [they] know." Each guide's tour emphasizes constrained by local cultural norms are not effective culture
different aspects of the Tlingit culture mediated through brokers. For instance, traditional Tlingit protocol restricts
his own life experience. By individualizing their tours, Na talking about oneself to certain contexts, and an autobio
tive tour guides do not just present culture in a manner graphical speech genre is unheard of.19 Talking about one
that conforms to established industry practices but they self in the manner that is required of tour guides can be con
also draw from oftentimes multiple cultural norms direct sidered quite rude and self-important. Tour guides must in
ing self-presentation. Consideration of polyvocal alterna voke their Tlingit identity but must do so according to the
tions culled from a repertoire of identities acknowledges non-Native speech genre of autobiographical speech.
that there is not necessarily one unified culture to which all In addition to dictating the speech genres used in the
Native tour guides conform. tourism interaction, cross-cultural communicative norms
Tribal Tours' guides do not share the same experi affect tour guides' choices about sharing cultural content.
ences of their Native culture (s) and heritage (s). Their iden What might be taboo for one guide to discuss with tourists is
tities "as Native" are varied according to factors such as perfectly fine for another. For example, several Tribal Tours
age, gender, cultural-ethnic background, where they grew employees informed me on numerous occasions that the
up, education, whether their families are involved with the Tlingit name for Mt. Edgecumbe volcano, T'ux, should not
traditional ceremonial system, and religious and other per be repeated out loud because the volcano is considered sa
sonal preferences. All guides are at least bicultural, embody cred. Contradicting these oral instructions, the tour script
ing some Tlingit and some mainstream "American" cultural describes how the volcano got its name, stating, "It is said
norms, but many have tricultural (or more complex) ances by some stories that the Tlingit were led to this area by a
try incorporating other Alaska Native, European, or South smoking volcano. This volcano today is known as Mt. Edge
east Asian ancestry, to name the most common. They draw cumbe. Because the volcano was still flashing, the Tlingit
from this "repertoire" of cultural and ethnic identities to in called it L'ux meaning to flash or blinking." In fact, the tra
teract with tourist groups. ditional proscription against saying the name of the volcano
Examining the relationship between language use and is largely ignored by tour guides because, although they are
identity, Kroskrity (1993) suggests that speakers may con aware of this taboo, they no longer believe in it (at least no
sciously select relevant situational identities that they in one I encountered believes in it, including the elder clan
voke through various communication strategies. From this leader who taught me the correct pronunciation of L'ux).
point of view, identity can be considered something that But for the most part, Tribal Tours guides respect con
may shift according to situational contexts in which in temporary Tlingit protocols concerning what is appropri
dividuals must communicate effectively across a range of ate content to share with outsiders. In general, guides do
social networks. This supposition aligns with Dorinne K. not discuss stories belonging to other clans unless given
Kondo's view; she writes, "People are constantly becoming, permission to tell these stories. Neither do they respond
crafting their selves in particular, located situations for par to tourists' persistent questions about shamanism, a topic
ticular ends" (1990:257). All successful Tribal Tours guides largely off-limits for discussion with outsiders. In addition
have the ability to tailor situational identities. Guides know to adhering to these types of prohibitions, tour guides re
that large groups of cruise-ship passengers who appear spect several other Tlingit communicative protocols. On
to be middle-American retirees usually enjoy humorous, tour, most guides introduce themselves through an abbrevi
lightweight tours. For these groups, guides present them ated version of the formalized introduction they might nor
selves as jovial friends, telling "corny" jokes throughout mally perform in a ceremonial context. Walking on the trails
their tours and perhaps making some physical contact with in the forest, many tour guides show tourists how to interact

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Sharing culture or selling out? American Ethnologist

with nature according to Tlingit codes of conduct. While Rejecting stereotyping through covert acts of
performing these kinds of activities, tourism workers typ resistance
ically narrate how and why they are following a particular
cultural protocol. In these instances, they exercise a choice The cultural-tourism venue encourages a discursive space
to uphold Tlingit ways of interacting with the world, but in which workers must consciously shape their identities
they conform to Western communicative standards of the for outside consumption by members of the dominant so
tourism site by narrating their "Tlingitness." ciety yet at the same time strive to adhere to their own
On tour, guides highlight selected aspects of their eth cultural norms of representation and concepts of the self.
nic identities that illustrate their position as culture bear Accordingly, performing the commodified persona invokes
ers, but they do not share all aspects of their identities. The deep feelings of ambivalence in tourism workers. Workers
Native experience is compartmentalized into what is and is gain positive feedback, including a sense of pride in shar
not appropriate to share on tour. It is appropriate to express ing their culture, in addition to any monetary compensa
Tlingit identity as embodying closeness to nature. Con tion. However, facing negative stereotyping tears at positive
versely, it is not appropriate for Tlingits to express them feelings of self-worth. Sherry B. Ortner writes, "In a rela
selves to outsiders as suffering from the aftermath of cul tionship of power, the dominant often has something to of
tural genocide. By the same token, the Native guide should fer, and sometimes a great deal (though always of course at
express himself as Western through communicative prac the price of continuing in power). The subordinate thus has
tices such as using a narrative style and discussing history in many grounds for ambivalence about resisting the relation
chronological order. The guide should not express himself ship" (1995:175).
as Westernized, for example, by discussing his evangelical By constructing a commodified persona tailored to
Christianity or possession of a higher educational degree. and compartmentalized within the cultural-tourism con
In this manner, the commodified persona is constrained by text, the Native tourism worker can protect himself from
cross-cultural norms. According to the structure of the tour, the self-destructive aspects of playing to the tourist gaze.
guides are bound to present themselves as exotic according I argue that resistance is an integral aspect of this pro
to Western ideologies of the Other using a Western autobi cess, a self-protective mechanism that balances out acts
ographical narrative structure. At the same time, they draw of self-exotification. It is almost always hidden behind a
from Tlingit standards throughout their tours to introduce mask of compliance (Scott 1990) utilized as a way to live
themselves and interact with nature, among other activities. through, but not necessarily resolve, problematic power re
What is significant about polyvocal alternations of lations (see Hall and Jefferson 1989). Assuming many dif
identity culled from a repertoire of possibilities is the highly ferent forms, it is usually undetected by those to whom
sophisticated manner in which tour guides invoke and it is directed. Resistance expressed in the cultural-tourism
manage more than one set of identities and its associated setting is covert, varying in gradations of agency and in
cultural norms. Moreover, each tour guide's commodified tensity "continually negotiated in the discourse and prac
persona is subject to individual variation. Tourism work tice of everyday life" (Valaskakis 1993:283). At the most ba
ers may be more or less self-reflexive in different contexts. sic and unconscious level, tour guides practice resistance
Some guides actively describe the ways that they shape their simply by portraying themselves through a trope of cul
persona, describing their tour-guide persona as "funny" or tural persistence in the face of dominant society. At the
"traditional." Others do not put much effort into develop most consciously directed level, tour guides actively chal
ing their tour persona, choosing to simply follow the script. lenge stereotypes about Native Americans through both re
Some guides worry out loud about how to avoid "selling hearsed and spontaneous commentary.
themselves out" to the tourist gaze, whereas others switch Perhaps the most pervasive strategy of resistance is the
use of humor. Jokes are effective as subversive tools because
on the commodified persona at work without ever com
menting on the differences between the performed self and they can be used to violate codes of normal speech behav
the self outside of work. From what I observed, the self ior in a nonthreatening manner. On one occasion, a guide
conscious, critically aware tour guides who constantly tai named Sandy drove her tour through the "Indian Village"
lor their presentations are the ones who truly enjoy their part of Sitka; she stated that everyone in the village was
jobs. Not surprisingly, these guides are the most popular Tlingit and pointed out homes where she and her relatives
among tourists, earning the most tips, the highest ratings, grew up. In the middle of her discussion, Sandy directed the
and word-of-mouth repeat customers. Those guides who group's attention to a house decorated with multiple Na
do not have fun with their jobs by coming up with creative tive art designs and sarcastically exclaimed, "The man who
responses to the tourist gaze are the ones who do not last lives here would lose his Indian blood if he got a nosebleed."
an entire season and do not return to work for Tribal Tours This joke was addressed in part to two white sisters who, on
year after year. boarding the motor coach, told Sandy that they were "the

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American Ethnologist Volume 35 Number 3 August 2008

real descendants of a Cherokee princess." Sandy's joke was following the 1802 massacre, several Tribal Tours guides
meant to indirectly indicate that, in her mind, the sisters point out that the retreating Tlingit only granted the Rus
were not "authentic" Native people and could not "share" sians rights to a small parcel of land, what is now downtown
a Native identity with her. Sitka.21 Guides assert that Russians never had the right to
Humor is also used self-reflexively. Another guide joked sell the territory of Alaska to the United States in 1867 be
about the stereotype that Native people are spiritually "in cause they never had a legitimate claim to the land. By re
tune" with the earth. She discussed the methods used to claiming the past, Native tour guides provide powerful al
gather herring eggs, a local subsistence food: ternatives to the "official" (typically hegemonic) account of
history, and in doing so, they assert their identity as steeped
About ten years ago, my uncle Johnnie took me out to in their own values rather than those of the dominant
the island with the white house and the red roof. He culture.22
was showing me the whole process [of gathering her Other forms of resistance are less frequently used.
ring eggs] because it had been years since I had done
it. As he sunk the tree branch into the water he said These include withholding information, refusing to engage
with tourists by ignoring them, and offering misinforma
you have to say a special prayer over this or else the
tion. Occasionally, tour guides openly confront tourist com
herring won't come in and lay their eggs on your tree.
And I thought about it for a while and I said, "Johnnie, ments they perceive as offensive. Overt forms of resistance
why don't you tell me [the prayer] and then next time are rarely practiced and are not a part of the commodified
I'll know." And I thought it would be this special Tlingit persona. After all, when a tourism worker loses his temper,
prayer and he turns around and he says "OK herring, he breaks the mold of the commodified persona, letting his
do your stuff!"20 emotions "get the best of him." By the same token, with
holding information is contrary to the tour guide's job de
Tourists, expecting a recitation of a "special Tlingit scription, to share culture. Ultimately, tour guides work in
prayer," howled with laughter at the idea of the uncle's the service industry; hospitality is part of the basic job de
method to communicate with nature.
scription. Thus, only covert acts of resistance are intrinsic to
Native tour guides resist stereotypes that see them as the commodified persona.
part of the timeless past by presenting themselves as firmly On the surface, Tribal Tours' workers may seem to com
entrenched in modernity (although, paradoxically, they re ply with their clients' expectations of the Other, expecta
inforce these same stereotypes through self-exotifying as tions that are created and regulated by the dominant culture
the Other). The strategy of culling from a repertoire of iden that fabricated the image of the Other in the first place. On a
tities provides guides the opportunity to present themselves deeper level, it becomes clear that cultural-tourism workers
as multifaceted individuals, part of the contemporary U.S. actively refute stereotypical notions applied to their ethnic
mainstream. One guide talks about being a local business ities through what Barbara Babcock (1977,1994) calls "sym
owner. Another worker emphasizes his side job: creating bolic inversion," or subtle moments of resistance within an
and maintaining websites. Discussing local bear sightings overall scheme of cultural exchange. Such moments seem
on a tour, one guide stated, to diffuse the psychological difficulties associated with ac
tivities of self-commodification.
They eat salmon berries, blue berries and huckleber
ries, but a major part of their diet comes from the
salmon. They will rip the heads off and they will eat the Conclusion: Jackson's story revisited
fatty part of the body. They will eat 35 to 40 salmon a
day until they reach what they call their fat content and
Developing a commodified persona is a strategy that
then they will go into a waking hibernation and then cultural-tourism workers use to manage and control their
into sleeping hibernation. Do you want to know where product: themselves. On the one hand, tour guides must
I learned all of that from? ... The Discovery Channel! conform to industry standards and meet tourist expecta
tions. On the other hand, guides seek to present themselves
In telling this joke, this guide positioned herself as in a way that resonates with their lived experience as Na
someone who learns about nature by watching television tive persons, an experience that does not always match up
(just like the tourists) rather than by an innate oneness with with the tourist gaze. If there is too much forced conformity
nature or through the lessons of a wizened elder. in the workplace, the cultural-tourism worker is left feel
By presenting tourists with alternative visions of their ing objectified and alienated. In turn, if the cultural-tourism
lives outside of the tourism context, guides strive to change worker is too resistant in his interactions with clients, he will
commonly held stereotypes that they are multigenerational not succeed at his job.
victims of circumstance. As part of this agenda, tour guides I return to Jackson's account of the Battle of 1802, pre
often present history on their own terms. By telling the story sented at the beginning of this article. According to Jack
of the 1804 battle between Sitka Tlingits and the Russians son, when the Russian American Company came to Sitka

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in 1799, its workers helped themselves to local resources Finally, telling the story is itself an act of resistance.
without gaining permission from the Tlingit clans who laid The dominant interpretation of the Battle of 1802 is that it
claim to the territory in and around Sitka. The Russians did resulted in the Russians spending two years amassing the
not show respect to clan leaders of high rank, and, even manpower and weapons necessary to subdue the Tlingits in
more egregious, they abducted Tlingit women. In 1802, the the subsequent Battle of 1804, paving the way for the estab
Tlingit, led by Shk'awuly?il, the head of the Kiks.?di clan, lishment of Russian America. By telling an alternative his
successfully attacked the Russian settlement. Jackson re tory, one that ends with the Tlingits' triumph over the Rus
counts this story with dramatic flair each time he gives a sian invaders, Jackson confronts the general stereotype that
tour. After the tour, tourists often comment on the Battle of Indians are casualties of manifest destiny. Jackson often ar
1802 as they wait for the dance show to begin, shop through ticulates this point near the end of his tour, when he con
town, or reboard their cruise ships. I argue that the success cludes, "We may have lost the Battle of 1804 against the Rus
of this story relies on Jackson's sophisticated manipulation sians, but we have not lost the war. We were here before the
of his own commodified persona. Through the telling of this Russians and we were still here after they left. We were here
story, Jackson presents Tlingit culture as part of a unifying when the Americans came. And we will still be here after
trope, exoticizes himself as the Other, showcases an iden everyone else is long gone." With this statement, Jackson
tity culled from a repertoire of possibilities, and performs a drives home the point that the Battle of 1804 is not just a
covert act of resistance. story. Rather, it is part of an ongoing narrative in which the
In terms of presenting culture as part of a unifying Tlingit people persist despite outside forces that seek to de
trope, Jackson simplifies the story of the Battle of 1802 and stroy their way of life. Hall writes, "Identities are the names
structures it according to Western principles. He tells the we give to the different ways we are positioned by, and posi
story chronologically, positioning himself as storyteller and tion ourselves within, the narratives of the past" (1992:225).
the tourists as audience. He leaves out many cultural refer In this manner, Jackson's story makes a powerful political
ences so that the story is easy for tourists to understand and statement that compels his audience to reassess precon
so that it fits within the time constraints of the tour. With no ceived ideas they may have concerning the victimization of
mention of interclan politics, Jackson presents Tlingits as Native people or about Native culture as frozen in the past.
unified in their position against the Russians, when, in fact, Thus, Jackson's choice to tell this story as part of his carefully
early relations between Russians and Tlingits were much constructed commodified persona illustrates the extent to
more complicated.23 which the commodified persona is also a political expres
Jackson leads the audience to exoticize him as a mem sion of identity.
ber of a warlike and fierce tribe. Introducing himself by his By telling the story of the Battle of 1802, Jackson asserts
Tlingit name at the beginning of the tour, Jackson situates that he is not just a tour guide profiting from his identity.
himself in relation to his namesake Shk'awuly?il, the pro Rather, he is a member of a powerful and persistent tribe.
tagonist of the battle story. He knows that while he is telling Within this framework, tourists ought to feel honored to
his story, the audience is imagining him as a descendant of be privy to learning what it means to be Tlingit from the
the great Tlingit warrior who led a bloody massacre of the point of view of an "authentic" Native. Jackson's account
Russians. of the Battle of 1802 is not simply fashioned to entertain
Jackson culls from a repertoire of identities to tell this tourists according to the tourist gaze. It helps fulfill a psy
story. He relies on Western storytelling conventions, but the chological purpose, allowing Jackson to take an active role
underlying meaning of Jackson's story in terms of his iden in preventing feelings of alienation by controlling his prod
tity comes from a purely Tlingit ideology of the self. Accord uct, the commodified persona. Rather than thinking of cul
ing to traditional Tlingit belief, a name is more than just tural tourism as a job that forces one to perform identity to
an identifier that tracks an individual's chronological life on the non-Native audience's expectations, the guide can ap
earth. It can represent the inalienable spirit of an ances proach his job as an opportunity to educate and enlighten
tor believed to be "reincarnated" in the current owner of his charges.
the name. A Tlingit name is associated with the owner's lin On deeper examination, Jackson's choice to tell this
eage within the clan system, the exploits and personality of particular story also reflects the cross-cultural dimension
the ancestor(s) it also belonged to, and responsibilities tied embedded within the cultural-tourism setting. Jackson
to its particular social rank.24 Tourists do not understand draws on the Tlingit phenomenology of the "name as iden
that Jackson may believe himself to be an incarnation of tity" to structure part of his tour narrative. Tourists who hear
Shk'awuly?il or that, by having this name, Jackson may bear him tell the story certainly understand that Jackson is some
particular responsibilities to his clan. They only know he is how linked to his warrior namesake but cannot know its full
somehow a part of the great warrior and are impressed by cultural implications. Jackson is certainly aware of this, but
the authenticity Jackson brings to his storytelling through it does not matter to him whether tourists understand the
his Tlingit identity Shk'awuly?il. deep cultural meanings attached to his name or the story

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American Ethnologist Volume 35 Number 3 August 2008

of the Battle of 1802, because the choice to tell this story is, and "outsider." I chose to conduct my fieldwork in Sitka in part be
in part, for his own benefit. Accordingly, I maintain that, al cause I have no ties to the Tlingit clan system or local Native poli
tics. I worked within the Alaska Native heritage industry both before
though cultural tours may appear from the outside, or from
and during my academic training. To observe the everyday activi
Erving Goffman's (1959) "frontstage," as unduly influenced ties of cultural-tourism workers, I opted to train and work alongside
by Western representational tropes, they are also regulated them. Tribal Tours was able to hire me because I fit two major cri
by local cultural norms. Ultimately, tour guides choose on teria for employment: I am Alaska Native, and I am familiar with
an individual basis the ways in which they reference cross Tlingit culture and history, although I was not raised in and have
no ties to Sitka (another important prerequisite for Tribal Tours em
cultural systems of self-representation.
ployment) .
The construction of the commodified persona is an in
3. I have chosen to use masculine gender-specific pronouns
tegral aspect of what Ann Fienup-Riordan (2000:167) calls throughout this article when referring generically to tour guides to
"conscious culture," performed, as James Clifford points avoid the awkwardness of "he-she" "himself-herself" grammatical
out, "in old and new public contexts and asserted against constructions. I use masculine pronouns because the tour guide,
Jackson, to whom I refer most extensively in the article, is male.
historical experiences of loss" (2004:6). Considering the Na
4. The concept of the "tourist gaze" suggests that tourists wield
tive tour guide's presentation of self to a paying audience as power over locals through the way they look at them, which is cou
a commodified persona can provide a holistic understand pled with expectations of "authentic" behavior and appearance.
ing of processes of self-commodification. The concept of "What people gaze upon," John Urry explains, "are ideal repre
the "commodified persona" posits the tourism encounter as sentations of the view in question that they internalize from post
cards and guidebooks (and increasingly from TV programmes)"
a discursive space. Rather than viewing the Native guide un
(1990:86).
der a rubric of melancholia and seeing him as powerless to 5. Sitka Tribe of Alaska (STA) is the federally recognized govern
act within the dominant, globalized political economy that ment for more than 4,000 tribal citizens who are primarily of Tlin
governs tourism, one can understand the guide as some git, Haida, Aleut, and Tsimpsian heritage (Sitka Tribe of Alaska n.d.).
one who exercises control over his self-presentation. The To oversee the tribe's economic projects, STA created Sitka Tribal
Enterprises (STE), a nonprofit subsidiary controlled by a board of
commodified persona takes into account the psychological directors that includes tribal members and business leaders. Tribal
stress associated with selling one's ethnic identity to clients Tours, an offshoot of STE, was established immediately following
who have already formed ideas about who they are paying passage of the 1994 Indian Self-Determination Act Amendments,
to encounter. It considers cultural-tourism workers as self which allowed the tribe to negotiate for funding directly with the
reflexive and politically aware across cultural border zones. federal government and to control and administer federal funding
on a local basis.
It considers the range of influences that the host culture's
6. A circa 1881 account by A. L. Lindsley describes a Tlingit per
preexisting ideologies of self-expression and identity may formance:
have on the tour guide's presentation of self. Looking at cul
Evenings ashore granted some sight seers a faint reminder of
tural representation in terms of self-commoditization takes
vanished Tlingit glories. Then it was the natives would build a
the attention away from the impossible question of authen
large blazing fire, don their colorful wolf and bear costumes,
ticity and, instead, focuses it on hosts' strategies of self
and, while dancing to a slow, pounding beat, chant of de
conscious self-representation mediated by cross-cultural parted splendors. Occasionally, the chief would address the
concepts of identity. white spectators, and few, if any of his listeners were quite able
to forget the poignancy and power of the Indian's unpolished
rhetoric. [Hinckley 1965:72]
Notes
7. For more on 19th-century encounters between Northwest
Acknowledgments. This article was made possible through sup Coast Natives and non-Natives, see Raibmon 2005.
port from the University of California, Los Angeles, Department 8. In 1983, Sitka received about 50,000 visitors, compared with
of Anthropology, Institute of American Cultures, and Dissertation 150,000 in 1995. Since 1995, the number of tourists visiting Alaska
Year Fellowship; the National Science Foundation; the Howard has increased in every year but one. In 2003, about 275,000 visitors
Rock Foundation; and Bristol Bay Native Corporation. Foremost, arrived in Sitka via cruise ship, and an estimated 250,00 tourists ar
I wish to express my gratitude to those individuals who work at rived via the state ferry system and 50,000 via Alaska Airlines (based
Tribal Tours and have shared their time and thoughts with me as on McDowell Group 2001 and 2004 STA figures).
a coworker and anthropologist over the years. I am most grateful to 9. Out-of-state visitors to Alaska contributed $862.4 million
Sergei Kan whose advice and suggestions proved invaluable to the to Alaska's economy in 2002 (Global Insight 2004). The num
research and analysis for this project, Paul V. Kroskrity who helped ber of tourists visiting Sitka has been on the rise for the past
me to work through my ideas in earlier drafts of this article, as well 20 years. The McDowell Group (2001) estimates that tourism yields
as to Nelson Graburn, Siamak Naficy, and Jennifer Tucker, who took $6.9 million in annual revenue for Sitka; in 1996, the Holland Amer
the time to carefully read over and comment on later drafts of this ica Line estimated the impact on Sitka's economy to be $11 million
article. annually. The visitor industry is Sitka's third largest employer, ac
1. I have changed names to protect individuals' identities. counting for 20 percent of local jobs; 87 percent of those jobs are
2. Noting my own position in reference to the fieldwork con staffed by Sitka locals, and 175 local vendors do business directly
ducted for this article is important. My ethnic background is Alaska with the cruise lines.
Native but not of the Northwest Coast region. Because of this, I 10. I note here the stickiness of the word tradition. Tlingit people
carefully selected a field site in which I could be both an "insider" have been in contact with non-Natives for over 300 years and are

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Sharing culture or selling out? American Ethnologist

a part of the mainstream U.S. political economy and culture. Nat a branch of a hemlock tree in an area where herring are known to
urally, "tradition" shifts over time and varies from place to place. spawn. The herring then deposit their eggs on the branches of the
Moreover, as Richard Dauenhauer and Nora Dauenhauer state, trees, which are later harvested and cooked or frozen.
"The actual operating culture that people live and interact by may 21. In the two years following their devastating defeat at the
be quite different from what is popularly perceived as 'the culture,' hands of Sitka Tlingit in 1802, the Russian American Company con
with its variety of 'badges' of ethnicity such as songs, dances, visual structed two ships and gathered Aleut manpower in numbers es
art, ethnic food, and clan regalia" (1998:73). timated to be about 300. In September 1804, Alexander Baranov,
11. The broadest organizing principle in Tlingit society is the di chief manager of the Russian American Company, and his men re
vision of all people into moieties identified by the eagle and raven turned to Sitka Sound, where the naval ship Neva was waiting to
crests. The two moieties do not wield political power; their pri assist. Meanwhile, the Kiks.?di and their Kaagwaantaan relatives
mary function is to divide ceremonial tasks, exchange ritual ser from the opposite moiety built a fort named Shiksi Noow on the
vices, and maintain exogamy through marriage; so ravens conduct grounds of what is now the Sitka National Historical Park. By this
ceremonial duties for eagles, invite eagles for ceremonial activi time, many of the clan alliances that had formed a massive war
ties, and marry eagles (Dauenhauer and Dauenhauer 1990:6). Tlin party in 1802 had dissolved, and Tlingit manpower was diminished
gits are matrilineal; social affiliation is assigned at birth through compared with what it had been in the earlier battle.
the mother. The two moieties are subdivided into clans, the ma The second major battle between the Tlingits and the Russians
jor Tlingit political units. Each Tlingit clan possesses a symbol, or took place over the course of approximately six days, with gunfire
crest. The main clans in Sitka today are the Kiks.?di, Watineid?, and cannonfire exchanged by both sides. The Kiks.?di were led by
Koosk'eid?, L'uknax?di, T'akdeintaan, and X'at'ka.aay? under the a famous warrior, K'aly?an, who had also been involved in the 1802
Raven Moiety, and Kaagwaantaan, Kookhittaan, Chookaneidi, battle. K'aly?an's courage and success on the battlefield are still
Wooshkeetaan, and X'ax'ahittaan under the Eagle Moiety (Alaska remembered and honored by the present-day Kiks.?di and Tlin
Native Knowledge Network 2003). Most Tribal Tours employees are gits in general. Because of Tlingit strength and firepower, the Rus
aware of their clan affiliations and have Tlingit names, passed on to sians and their Aleut warriors were not able to come on shore to
them through ceremonial protocol. Most live, however, in Western, penetrate the Tlingit fort. One Tlingit story tells of a Tlingit war
bilateral nuclear families, like mainstream Americans. rior who captured Baranov in his whale boat. This warrior could
12. See Bunten 2006, Kramer 2006, LeFevre 2004, and Stanley have killed Baranov, but he chose not to because Tlingit proto
1998 for discussion of how tourism can enhance such awareness. col forbids taking the life of a high-caste leader unless one's clan
13. This case study considers the politics of representation fol has lost an individual of equal rank. Baranov was subsequently re
lowing approaches used in critical tourism research, museum stud turned to his ship. Another Tlingit story relayed to me by Tlingit
ies, and linguistic analysis. For more discussion of this case study elder Mark Jacobs tells that, at one point near the end of the bat
in relation to theoretical discussions on tradition, authenticity, and tle, the Russians raised a white flag. The Tlingits raised their own
ethnicity, see Bunten 2006. white flag in response. The Tlingits did not know the meaning of
14. The terms self-commodification and commodified persona the white flag but raised the flag to state something to the effect of
do not denote local concepts and, therefore, are not emic. I use "back at you." Because of the flag incident, the Russians assumed
these concepts as tools to analyze the ways that local peoples create that the Tlingits surrendered, but the Tlingits assert they never did.
an ethnic experience for outside consumption. Although the Tlingits never acknowledged a formal defeat, five days
15. The standardization seen at cultural-tourism sites worldwide after Baronov's arrival in Sitka Sound, they retreated to the north
applies to mass-tourism sites. The tourism formula is often avoided ern end of Baranov Island, where they remained for 20 years, af
in small-scale tourism operations that promise to take visitors "off ter which the Russians claimed deed to the Tlingit village, particu
the beaten track" (but it is often replaced with a type of "off the larly a Kiks.?di defensive hillfort named Noow Tlein, now known as
beaten track" formula, which I do not consider here). In fact, many Castle Hill. The circumstances of the Tlingit withdrawal are differ
indigenous tourism entrepreneurs are currently striving to develop ent according to Russian and Tlingit views. According to the Tlin
products that intentionally omit the factors that make up "cultural git account, several warriors went out to recover gunpowder from a
uniformity as a simplifying trope" (Bunten in press). cache. On the way back to the fort, the powder exploded in an ac
16. An important point to clarify is that self-exoticizing as the cident caused by a spark, killing the young men and destroying the
Other is a response to the perceived desires of tourists. Those remaining ammunition as well as the transport canoes. According
tourists who have romantic notions of what it means to be Na to the Russians, their men blew up the Tlingits returning with the
tive certainly feel free to express these expectations to their hosts. gunpowder. After they lost their ammunition, the Tlingits realized
Throughout the tourism season, these individuals frequently ask it would be nearly impossible to defend their fort against the Rus
their Native tour guides to talk about stereotypical elements of sians. Citing Mark Jacobs, Sergei Kan (1989) writes that the Tlingits
Native American culture(s). Although most tourists do not verbal retreated because of "symbolic" causes and that they were afraid of
ize what they want to see and learn on tour with a Native guide, a powerful, unknown weapon belonging to the Russians.
guides fashion their personas on the basis of comments from those 22. Telling history from the Native point of view can have pow
tourists who are verbally responsive on tour. erful political implications in terms of influencing struggles over
17. Several studies have commented on the role of media in cultural representation, language, rights to waterways, and land
tourism, including Adams 1984, Craik 1997, King 1997, Nuttal 1997, claims. The Tlingit account of the unlawful sale of the territory
Silver 1993, R?ssel 1988, and Urry 1990. of Alaska to the United States was used as testimony in lawsuits
18. Elderhostel is a nonprofit organization that provides edu against the U.S. government by the Central Council of Tlingit and
cational tour products around the world for people 55 and over Haida Tribes (CCTHT), which influenced land claims settlements
(Elderhostel n.d.). for southeast Alaska Natives in 1968 and, eventually, all Alaska Na
19. For more discussion of Tlingit speech genres and oratorical tives following passage of the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act
protocols, see Dauenhauer and Dauenhauer 1994. (ANCSA) in 1971 (Mark Jacobs, personal communication 2003).
20. Herring are small, grouping fish that yearly spawn in the wa 23. Nineteenth- and early 20th-century Sitka was made up of
ters around the Pacific Northwest. Their eggs still are a popular three clans under the raven moiety, the Kiks.?di, L'uknax?di,
subsistence food. Herring eggs are typically harvested by placing X'at'ka.aay?, and Koosk'eid?, and four clans under the eagle moiety,

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American Ethnologist Volume 35 Number 3 August 2008

the Kaagwaantaan, Kookhittaan (which some people regard as part tions of Travel and Theory Chris Rojek and John Urry, eds. Pp.
of Kaagwaantaan), the Aanigiyaahittaan, and Chookaneidi. These 113-136. London: Routledge.
clans were further divided into 34 houses, according to the Tribal Dauenhauer, Richard, and Nora Dauenhauer
Tours Training Manual. Today many of these houses still exist, al 1990 Haa Tuwun?agu Y?s, for Healing Our Spirit: Tlingit Oratory.
though some no longer have a physical presence. At the time of Seattle: University of Washington Press.
Russian contact and during the Russian American period, power 1994 Haa Kusteeyi, Our Culture: Tlingit Life Stories. Seattle: Uni
ful clans in Sitka at times interacted with the Russians on an indi versity of Washington Press.
vidual basis. By 1804, many of the clan alliances that had enabled 1998 Technical, Emotional, and Ideological Issues in Reversing
formation of a massive war party in 1802 had dissolved, and Tlingit Language Shift. In Endangered Languages. Lenore Grenoble
manpower was diminished compared with what it had been in the and Lindsay Whaley, eds. Pp. 57-98. Cambridge: Cambridge
earlier battle. University Press.
After the Kiks.?di "Survival March" of 1804, other clans made David, Sasha
camps within miles of the Sitka area. The Russians then occu 2007 Self for Sale: Notes on the Work of Hollywood Talent Man
pying Sitka, renamed Novo-Arkhangelsk, continued negotiations agers. Anthropology of Work Review 28(3):6-16.
with these remaining clans. Elderhostel
24. For more on Tlingit names, see Dauenhauer and Dauen N.d. Elderhostel Adventures in Lifelong Learning. Electronic doc
hauer 1994, Kan 1989, and Langdon 2000. ument, http://www.elderhostel.org, accessed March 24, 2008.
Fienup-Riordan, Ann
2000 Hunting Tradition in a Changing World: Yup'ik Lives in
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