TEXTILE MANUFACTURING PROCESSES

TXMP 22O

UNIT 8 – Dyeing, Printing & Finishing

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 INTRODUCTION
2  Dyeing, printing and The process sequence for wet
finishing processes are processes (example of cotton) are as
called wet processes. follows;
 They required to impart; i. Grey inspection
 Desired colour / shade ii. Stitching

 Handle iii. Shearing and cropping

iv. Singeing
 Appearance
v. Desizing
 Wearing comfort.
vi. Scouring
 Types of wet processing vii. Bleaching
are;
viii.Mercerizing
 Batch process ix. Dyeing
 Continuous process x. Finishing
 Semi-continuous process

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 Preparatory processes
3  Preparation is the process of preparing fibre, yarn or fabric for subsequent steps such
as dyeing, printing, finishing, and/or special processes for apparel and non-apparel
end uses. The primary function of preparation is to remove impurities that will interfere
with overall processing through all dyeing and finishing functions.

The preparatory processes are as

follows;
i. Singeing
ii. Desizing
iii.Scouring
iv.Bleaching
v. Enzyme Processes (cellulosics only)
vi.Mercerizing (cotton only)
vii.Heatsetting (synthetics only)

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 Grey inspection Shearing and cropping Singeing
This is the inspection Process of removing Burning off of the short fibre ends
4 done on a grey on the surface of fabrics to produce
protruding yarns on the
(undyed) fabric. The surface of the fabric. smooth fabric appearance and
following can be done Shearing raises the minimize pilling. Fabric is passed
for grey inspection; protruding yarns and over gas flames at high speed (60 to
 Perching - Visual cropping cuts the 120 m/min). Fabric may be passed
inspection and protruding yarns. over;
marking the areas  Heated plates or rolls
of flaws, stain,  Heated wires
knots etc.
 Burling - Removal
of yarn knots and
other imperfections.
 Mending - Actual
repair of
imperfections.
 Means - By
manually or laser
beam. 5/1/2022
5 Water quality for wet processes

It should be:
 Clear and odourless
 Chlorine free
 Low hardness (50 ppm)

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 Desizing
6
 This is a process intended to remove warp sizes (chemicals).
 Desizing methods include;
 Acid steeping method
 Enzyme steeping method
 Oxidation method
 Enzymatic desizing is the traditional desizing method which uses an α-amylase enzyme
to catalyse the hydrolysis of the starch molecules into water-soluble pieces. The desizing
solution is maintained at pH 6–7.5, and a hot water rinse follows the desizing procedure.
 An alternative starch desizing procedure uses an oxidization reaction to solubilize the
starch warp size.

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 Scouring
Scouring removes impurities
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that would otherwise
interfere with the further
processing of fabrics and can
be carried out in both batch
and continuous processes.
Examples of impurities
include oils, fats and waxes.
Effects of the impurities are
that they inhibit;
 Rapid wetting of fibres
 Absorbency of fibres
 Absorption of dye and
chemical solutions
Scouring techniques include;
 Saponification (Fats and
Oils)
 Emulsification
Bleaching process
It is a process of removing
naturally occurring colour
bodies from fibres. The
objective of bleaching is to
obtain white fabrics without
seriously damaging the fibres
themselves. Only natural
fibres require bleaching,
since synthetic fibres can be
manufactured without
added colour. Two main
bleaching systems are;
 Chlorine and
 Peroxide
Problems associated with
bleaching are;
 Leftover Bleach
 Yellowing (strength loss)
 Holes
Mercerising
Mercerization is the treatment of
cotton with a strong caustic
solution. This is performed on yarn
or fabric, both woven and knits.
Tension may or may not be used.
Mercerisation;
 Improves absorption, increase
in dye affinity and yield
 Improves breaking strength
(improved up to 20%)
 Improves dimensional stability
 Improves chemical reactivity
 Improves fabric smoothness
 Covers immature cotton fibres
 Lustre is increased.
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 Heat setting
A process that provides dimensional
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stability, shape retention, and crease
resistance to thermoplastic synthetic
fibres such as polyester and nylon.
These fibres will shrink when exposed
to heat unless their internal structures
have been stabilized by exposure to a
temperature higher than they would
encounter in subsequent processing or
consumer use. Although heat setting is
usually considered a finishing process,
often specific fabrics are heat set
during preparation to control
shrinkage during processing. The
fabrics are heated while held under
tension in a tenter frame to maintain
the desired fabric dimensions. Factors
influencing heat setting are time,
temperature, moisture and tension.
Drying
At the end of the preparation
process, the fabric is dried using a
weft straightener, a tentering
(stentering) frame, and a drying
oven. In the initial step of the
drying phase, the fabric is
straightened using a weft
straightener. Then the edges of the
fabric are stretched onto a
tentering (stentering) frame. Pins
on both edges of the frame pull
the fabric and straighten the warp
and weft in both directions during
drying.
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 Dyeing
Materials dyed
 Dyeing fabrics and the end result are a
9 complex mix of chemistry and physics. The These are;
visual impression is created by light being  Fibres
reflected, and while highly subjective to the
individual, can also be measured as a series  Stock dyeing
of wavelengths and thus quantified. The dye  Yarns
itself adheres to the fabric as the result of one
or more chemical reactions between the dye  Skein dyeing
and the fibres, and there are many different  Package dyeing
types of dye that are suitable for different
types of fibre and under different conditions.  Beam dyeing
Thus the key issues in dyeing are the criteria  Fabrics
for selecting dyes and the conditions under
which they are applied, which in turn  Piece dyeing
influence the choice of appropriate dyeing  Printing
machinery. Most textiles are coloured. This
can either take place during fibre production  Roller-application, resist, discharge
(spin dyed man-made fibres), fibre  Flat screen
processing (for example wool), in the yarn, in
the fabric, or in the final product. This strongly  Rotary
depends on the amount of fibre, yarn, and  Tie dyeing
textile to be dyed and on the degree of
colourfastness that is desired.  Garments
 Garment dyeing 5/1/2022
 Selection of dyes
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 Post-dyeing operations
11

 On completion of dyeing, the garments are subjected to;

 A hydro-extraction (spin drying) process to remove excess water, followed
by
 tumble drying.
 Quality checks are then carried out on shade, colour fastness, handle and
garment dimensions, all according to the customer’s specifications.
 Any checks required to confirm compliance with the customer’s Restricted
Substances List must also be made at this stage.

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 Printing
 Localized dyeing or application of colour on the fabric in a desired pattern / design
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with one or more colours.
 Styles of printing are;
 Direct style
 Discharge style
 Resist style

Steps in printing process Methods of printing

These are;  Manual screen printing
 Preparation of print paste  Flat-bed screen printing
 Printing of fabric  Roller printing
 Drying  Rotary printing
 Fixation of dyestuff  Heat transfer printing
 Washing-off  Garment printing

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 Finishing
13  Any operation (other than preparation and colouring) that improves the appearance
and/or usefulness of fabric after it leaves the loom or knitting machine (grey goods).
 This the term also includes bleaching, dyeing, mercerizing etc., but normally the term in
restricted to the final stage in the sequence of treatment of woven fabrics after
bleaching and dyeing.

Objectives of finishing Classification of finishes

 To improve the appearance of the
fabric.
 To improve wearing qualities
durability.
 To improve handle of the fabric
[Softening & Stiffening processes]
 To cover faults in the original fabric,
e.g. by starch finishing.
 To impart special properties to the
fabric for specific end-uses such as
waterproofing, etc.
 To modify the fabric properties e.g.
by heat setting (synthetic fabrics).
Classification of finishes is according to;
a) Function
/ In this category, there are aesthetic and
functional finishes.
a) Type of machinery
This category has chemical finishes and
mechanical finishes.
a) Quality
In this category, there are temporary,
semi-permanent and permanent finishes.
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14 Chemical finishes
Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabrics by padding followed by
curing and drying. These are also called as wet finishes.

Mechanical finishes
Mechanical finishes usually involve specific physical treatment to a fabric
surface to cause a change in fabric appearance. This is also known as dry
finish.

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