COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS

Sector:

AUTOMOTIVE/ LAND TRANSPORT

Qualification:

AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC I

Module title:

Performing Pre-Delivery Inspection

HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Welcome to the Competency Based Learning Material AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC

I. This learning material contains activities for you to complete.

You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to complete each
of the learning outcomes of this module. In each learning outcome, there are Information
Sheets, Resources Sheets and Reference Materials for further reading to help you better
understand the required activities. Follow these activities and answer the self-check. Get
the answer sheet from your trainer to reflect your answers for each self-check. If you have
questions, please don’t hesitate to ask your facilitator for assistance.

Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)

You may have some or most of the knowledge and skills covered in this learning
material because you have:

 Actual experience on the job

 Already completed training in this area

If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a particular skill or
skills talk to him/her about having them formally recognized so you won’t have to do the
same training again. If you have qualification or a Certificate of Competency from previous
trainings, show it to your trainer. If the skills you acquired are still relevant to this module,
they may become part of the evidence you can present for RPL.

At the end of this module is a learner’s diary. Use this diary to record important
dates, jobs undertaken and other workplace events that will assist you in providing further
details to your trainer or assessors. A Record of Achievement is also provided for the
trainer to complete upon completion of the module.

This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency in performing
shop maintenance. This will be one of the sources of information that will enable you to
acquire the knowledge and skills of this particular trade at your own pace, with minimum
supervision or help from your trainer.

 Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the training of this
module. Read through the Competency Based Learning Material carefully. It is
divided into sections which cover all the skills and knowledge you need to
successfully complete this module.
 Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/She is
there to support you and show you the correct way to do things. Ask for help.
 Your trainer will tell you about the important things you need to consider when
you are completing the activities and it is important that you listen and take
notes.
 You will be given plenty of opportunities to ask questions and practice on the job.
Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way you
will improve both your speed and memory and also your confidence.
 Talk to more experienced workmates and ask for their guidance.
 Use the self-check questions at the end of each section to test your own progress.
 When you are ready, ask your trainer to watch you perform the activities outlined
in this learning material.
 As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback on your progress.
Your trainer keeps feedback/pre-assessment reports for this reason. When you
have successfully completed each element, ask your trainer to mark on the
reports that you are ready for assessment.
 When you have completed this module and feel confident that you have had
sufficient practice, your trainer will arrange an appointment with registered
assessor to assess you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your
competency Achievement Record.
L.O. 1 Prepare for pre- delivery inspection
Information Sheet 1.1-1
What is a pre-delivery checklist?
We have broken down the PDI checklist into three major parts

Checking the registration once the car arrives

Ensure that you ask for Form 22 or the VIN of the car before it gets registered to your
name. This is a major concern as sometimes dealers give the older model and then there's
nothing you can do about it. In addition to this, make sure you also check the odometer
reading of the vehicle and look out for the dents, paint quality or any such minor scratches
that will be a problem in future.

Before the delivery happens

A thorough check of the exteriors of the car. Make sure this is carried out in broad daylight
and in an outdoor area. Look for scratches, dents, and discoloration, if any. There could be
color differences in the paint and polish on different parts of the car.

There is a manufacturer's mark present across all window panes and windows. Make sure
that the car's model name and year of manufacturing are the same everywhere.

Open the bonnet of the car. The engine should be sparkling clean for any new car. Look out
for any cut or loose wires, oil spills, damaged parts, detached parts, missing caps, etc.

Next, check the boot of the car. A brand new car should have a clean and unused boot
area. Additionally, you should also find these in your boot: Jack and spanner, Tool kit and
spare tire.

There should be no damaged or missing parts or any loose wires in the boot area either.

Stepney is an important part of any new car. You should check it thoroughly to ensure that it is
brand new and free of any damages.

Check all the doors, windows, bonnet lid, and boot lid to see if they open and close properly.
There should be no visible scratches or marks that show signs of usage.

If your car comes with a remote control lock-unlock system, make sure it works fine.
Check the interiors of the car. There should be no marks or scratches on the dashboard, roof,
door, seats, etc.

Start the car and check if all the electronic components are working fine. Check the:

Music system
Play the radio or it's better to connect Bluetooth or Apple Car Play/Android Auto to check the
connectivity. Next, check the speaker output and if there's sound coming from an individual
speaker.

Air conditioner
Ensure to turn on the car AC and check all the vents if the proper circulation of air is
happening or not.

Headlights
Use the lights in low as well as high beams and ensure that they are working properly. Adjust
the headlight leveller also to check if it's working accurately.

Brake lights
Like the headlights, the taillights too needs to be checked. Make sure you take someone with
you so the process gets easier.

Fog lights
If your car has fog lights then turn them on and check their functioning.

Parking lights
Make sure that the parking lights are well illuminated.

Wipers
Check the functioning of the wipers and see if they are properly wiping the water from the
windshield or not. Similarly, if you have a rear wiper then check the functioning of that too.
Also, check the speed of the wipers at different levels.

Horn
Make sure you press the horn at least 5-6 times in any way possible. A functional horn ensures
that you drive smoothly on roads.
Indicators
Make sure the indicators are properly working.

Documentation check

RC Book
Even though this process comes when taking the delivery of your car, make sure you remind
the sales person to keep this thing in mind.

PUC certificate
You need not worry about the pollution in a new car as it is valid for 1 year on a new car. Do
not waste your money on this.

Warranty card/ documents

If you have opted for an additional warranty then make sure you receive the documents via
email or you have the hard copy for yourself.

Manual for car and other equipment

Check to see if the car has proper tools and the manual for understanding various features of
the car.

Invoice and sales certificate

Make sure you check the invoice and sales certificate amount and the amount is equal to what
you paid for. Check the RTO as well as the Green tax. The latter is widely used in Delhi and
NCR.

Insurance policy
Check the policy again and take the zero depreciation along with some other benefits that will
be helpful in the longer run.

Warranty card for the music system, battery, and tires

If you have opted for the music system, new battery or the alloy wheels from the dealer itself
then ensure you have a warranty and receipts for everything.

Payment receipt for all tools and parts

If you have opted for any accessory then make sure you have a payment recept for that item.
Delivery Time

Check the car thoroughly again

Now, we know it is a lot to ask but a lot can happen between the PDI and the date of delivery.
Ensure every point is taken care of and then only take the delivery.

Check the tyre pressure

Often the tyre pressure is neglected the most when people take deliveries so make sure that
there is enough air to ease up your travel.

Check the fuel

Make sure that there is enough fuel in the vehicle so you can get to the nearest fuel pump
easily.

Check the RC as well as the number plate

You have to take care of the fact that the numbers on the plate and on your RC are the same. It
sounds silly but this has happened a lot with the buyers and it is only because of the
carelessness of the dealer.

Ensure all accessories are there

If you have opted for the accessories from the dealer then make sure it is there.

Check the mileage of the car

In your pre-delivery inspection and on the date of delivery, the car must have travelled a few
kilometres. Ensure it is not more than 100 km.

Check all tyres and Stepney if they're of the same company and profile
When you will be checking out the tyre pressure of the car then make sure you check the
profile of the tyre and if they belong to the same manufacturer.

Duplicate keys
If the salesperson denies giving the second key then do not take the delivery at all. Make sure
that you receive that second key on the day of delivery itself.

This inspection needs to be done before the car's registration because once the car is registered,
there is no guarantee that the dealer would accept or even look into the problems present in the
car. So, this was a complete guide on pre-delivery inspection.
Information Sheet 1.1-2

Factory-loaded parts on the vehicle

Design
Introducing a new model of automobile generally takes three to five years from
inception to assembly. Ideas for new models are developed to respond to unmet pubic
needs and preferences. Trying to predict what the public will want to drive in five years is
no small feat, yet automobile companies have successfully designed automobiles that fit
public tastes. With the help of computer-aided design equipment, designers develop basic
concept drawings that help them visualize the proposed vehicle's appearance. Based on this
simulation, they then construct clay models that can be studied by styling experts familiar
with what the public is likely to accept. Aerodynamic engineers also review the models,
studying air-flow parameters and doing feasibility studies on crash tests. Only after all
models have been reviewed and accepted are tool designers permitted to begin building the
tools that will manufacture the component parts of the new model.

The Manufacturing Process

Components

The automobile assembly plant represents only the final phase in the process of
manufacturing an automobile, for it is here that the components supplied by more than
4,000 outside suppliers, including company-owned parts suppliers, are brought together
for assembly, usually by truck or railroad. Those parts that will be used in the chassis are
delivered to one area, while those that will comprise the body are unloaded at another.

Chassis

The typical car or truck is constructed from the ground up (and out). The frame
forms the base on which the body rests and from which all subsequent assembly
components follow. The frame is placed on the assembly line and clamped to the conveyer
to prevent shifting as it moves down the line. From here the automobile frame moves to
component assembly areas where complete front and rear suspensions, gas tanks, rear
axles and drive shafts, gear boxes, steering box components, wheel drums, and braking
systems are sequentially installed.

An off-line operation at this stage of production mates the vehicle's engine with its
transmission. Workers use robotic arms to install these heavy components inside the
engine compartment of the frame. After the engine and transmission are installed, a
Worker attaches the radiator, and another bolts it into place. Because of the nature of these
heavy component parts, articulating robots perform all of the lift and carry operations while
assemblers using pneumatic wrenches bolt component pieces in place. Careful ergonomic
studies of every assembly task have provided assembly workers with the safest and most
efficient tools available.

On automobile assembly lines, much of the work is now done by robots rather than humans. In the first stages of
automobile manufacture, robots weld the floor pan pieces together and assist workers in placing components such
as the suspension onto the chassis.

Body

Generally, the floor plan is the largest body component to which a multitude of
panels and braces will subsequently be either welded or bolted. As it moves down the
assembly line, held in place by clamping fixtures, the shell of the vehicle is built. First, the
left and right quarter panels are robotically disengaged from pre-staged shipping containers
and placed onto the floor pan, where they are stabilized with positioning fixtures and
welded.

The front and rear door pillars, roof, and body side panels are assembled in the same
fashion. The shell of the automobile assembled in this section of the process lends itself to
the use of robots because articulating arms can easily introduce various component braces
and panels to the floor pan and perform a high number of weld operations in a time frame
and with a degree of accuracy no human workers could ever approach. Robots can pick
and load 200-pound (90.8 kilograms) roof panels and place them precisely in the proper
weld position with tolerance variations held to within .001 of an inch. Moreover, robots can
also tolerate the smoke, weld flashes, and gases created during this phase of production.

As the body moves from the isolated weld area of the assembly line, subsequent body
components including fully assembled doors, deck lids, hood panel, fenders, trunk lid, and
bumper reinforcements are installed. Although robots help workers place these components
onto the body shell, the workers provide the proper fit for most of the bolt-on functional
parts using pneumatically assisted tools.
 The body is built up on a separate assembly line from the chassis. Robots once again perform most of the
welding on the various panels, but human workers are necessary to bolt the parts together. During welding,
component pieces are held securely in a jig while welding operations are performed.
Paint

Prior to painting, the body must pass through a rigorous inspection process,
the body in white operation. The shell of the vehicle passes through a brightly lit white
room where it is fully wiped down by visual inspectors using cloths soaked in hi-light oil.
Under the lights, this oil allows inspectors to see any defects in the sheet metal body
panels. Dings, dents, and any other defects are repaired right on the line by skilled body
repairmen. After the shell has been fully inspected and repaired, the assembly conveyor
carries it through a cleaning station where it is immersed and cleaned of all residual oil,
dirt, and contaminants.

As the shell exits the cleaning station it goes through a drying booth and then
through an undercoat dip—an electrostatically charged bath of undercoat paint (called
the E-coat) that covers every nook and cranny of the body shell, both inside and out, with
primer. This coat acts as a substrate surface to which the top coat of colored paint adheres.

After the E-coat bath, the shell is again dried in a booth as it proceeds on to the final
paint operation. In most automobile assembly plants today, vehicle bodies are spray-
painted by robots that have been programmed to apply the exact amounts of paint to just
the right areas for just the right length of time. Considerable research and programming
has gone into the dynamics of robotic painting in order to ensure the fine "wet" finishes we
have come to expect. Our robotic painters have come a long way since Ford's first Model Ts,
which were painted by hand with a brush.

Once the shell has been fully covered 1 V with a base coat of color paint and a clear top coat,
the conveyor transfers the bodies through baking ovens where the paint is cured at temperatures
exceeding 275 degrees Fahrenheit (135 degrees Celsius).

Once the body shell is complete, it is attached to an overhead conveyor for the painting
process. The multi-step painting process entails inspection, cleaning, undercoat (electrostatically
applied) dipping, drying, topcoat spraying, and baking.
Interior assembly

The painted shell proceeds through the interior assembly area where workers
assemble all of the instrumentation and wiring systems, dash panels, interior lights, seats,
door and trim panels, headliners, radios, speakers, all glass except the automobile
windshield, steering column and wheel, body weather strips, vinyl tops, brake and gas
pedals, carpeting, and front and rear bumper fascias.

Next, robots equipped with suction cups remove the windshield from a shipping
container, apply a bead of urethane sealer to the perimeter of the glass, and then place it
into the body windshield frame. Robots also pick seats and trim panels and transport them
to the vehicle for the ease and efficiency of the assembly operator. After passing through
this section the shell is given a water test to ensure the proper fit of door panels, glass, and
weather-stripping. It is now ready to mate with the chassis.

The body and chassis assemblies are mated near the end of the production process. Robotic arms lift the body shell
onto the chassis frame, where human workers then bolt the two together. After final components are installed, the
vehicle is driven off the assembly line to a quality checkpoint.
Mate

The chassis assembly conveyor and the body shell conveyor meet at this stage of
production. As the chassis passes the body conveyor the shell is robotically lifted from its
conveyor fixtures and placed onto the car frame. Assembly workers, some at ground level
and some in work pits beneath the conveyor, bolt the car body to the frame. Once the
mating takes place the automobile proceeds down the line to receive final trim
components, battery, tires, anti-freeze, and gasoline.

The vehicle can now be started. From here it is driven to a checkpoint off the line,
where its engine is audited, its lights and horn checked, its tires balanced, and its charging
system examined. Any defects discovered at this stage require that the car be taken to a
central repair area, usually located near the end of the line. A crew of skilled trouble-
shooters at this stage analyzes and repairs all problems. When the vehicle passes final
audit it is given a price label and driven to a staging lot where it will await shipment to its
destination.

Quality Control
All of the components that go into the automobile are produced at other sites. This
means the thousands of component pieces that comprise the car must be manufactured,
tested, packaged, and shipped to the assembly plants, often on the same day they will be
used. This requires no small amount of planning. To accomplish it, most automobile
manufacturers require outside parts vendors to subject their component parts to rigorous
testing and inspection audits similar to those used by the assembly plants. In this way the
assembly plants can anticipate that the products arriving at their receiving docks
are Statistical Process Control (SPC) approved and free from defects.
Once the component parts of the automobile begin to be assembled at the automotive
factory, production control specialists can follow the progress of each embryonic
automobile by means of its Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), assigned at the start of the
production line. In many of the more advanced assembly plants a small radio frequency
transponder is attached to the chassis and floor pan. This sending unit carries the VIN
information and monitors its progress along the assembly process. Knowing what
operations the vehicle has been through, where it is going, and when it should arrive at the
next assembly station gives production management personnel the ability to electronically
control the manufacturing sequence. Throughout the assembly process quality audit
stations keep track of vital information concerning the integrity of various functional
components of the vehicle.
This idea comes from a change in quality control ideology over the years. Formerly,
quality control was seen as a final inspection process that sought to discover defects only
after the vehicle was built. In contrast, today quality is seen as a process built right into the
design of the vehicle as well as the assembly process. In this way assembly operators can
stop the conveyor if workers find a defect. Corrections can then be made, or supplies
checked to determine whether an entire batch of components is bad. Vehicle recalls are
costly and manufacturers do everything possible to ensure the integrity of their product
before it is shipped to the customer. After the vehicle is assembled a validation process is
conducted at the end of the assembly line to verify quality audits from the various
inspection points throughout the assembly process. This final audit tests for properly fitting
panels; dynamics; squeaks and rattles; functioning electrical components; and engine,
chassis, and wheel alignment. In many assembly plants vehicles are periodically pulled
from the audit line and given full functional tests. All efforts today are put forth to ensure
that quality and reliability are built into the assembled product.
 Information Sheet 1.1-3

Attaching and removing the towing eyelet

Use the towing eyelet when towing. Screw the towing eyelet securely into place in the
threaded outlet behind the cover on the right-hand side of the bumper, front or rear.

NOTE
If the vehicle is equipped with a tow bar, there is no rear attachment for the towing eye.

Attaching the towing eyelet

1. Take out the towing eyelet, which is stored in a foam block in the trunk.
 2. Front: To remove the cover, press it.

> The cover turns along its center line and can then be removed.

3. Rear: To remove the cover, use a coin, key or similar to pry off the cover.

> Fold out the cover completely and remove.

Screw the towing eyelet into place as far as possible.

Fasten the eyelet securing by, for example, inserting a lug wrench through it and using this as
a lever.

IMPORTANT
It is important that the towing eye is screwed in securely as far as possible.

Removing the towing eyelet

Unscrew the towing eyelet after use and return it to the foam block.

Replace the cover on the bumper.

Operational Sheet 1.1-1

Checking Air Pressure in Tires

Incorrect pressure can cause poor mileage, uneven tire wear, or a tire blow-out. To
prevent these events from happening it is important to maintain proper tire pressure.
Check the tire pressure properly.

Checking Air Pressure in Tires

Look in the owners' manual or on the inside of the driver's side door for the standard
cold tire inflation pressure. This number is the lowest PSI one would inflate the tires to
and is suggested by the car's manufacturer. Read below for reasons inflation may be placed
higher.
 For most sedans, minivans, and even mini pickups, manufacturers generally
recommend a PSI (pounds per square inch) in the range of 27 to 32, but can reach
all the way up to 40.
 For larger vehicles that need to carry a larger burden, such as trucks and SUVs, the
PSI is generally 4 to 8 PSI greater than it would be in smaller cars, perhaps around
45.
 Also note that the front and back tires may need different pressures, according to the
manufacturer.
Unscrew the valve stem cap from the valve stem on the tire. The valve stem is a black
or silver pencil-sized extension near the hubcap, about 1" (2-3 cm) long.

Press the air pressure gauge evenly onto the valve stem and record the reading
given. If there is a hissing sound, the gauge is not tight or evens enough for an accurate
reading. The angle of the gauge may need to be adjusted.
 If you are using a digital model gauge, you may or may not need to press a button in
order for the gauge to read the air pressure. If you are using a traditional gauge, the
metered stick should give you a reading automatically.

Replace valve stem cap. The cap does not hold air in, but it keeps dirt and moisture away
from the valve mechanism in the valve stem, which does hold air in.
 Note that if the reading is the same as the manuals' specifications, you are done after
checking all other tires for the same pressure. If inadequate pressure is in the tires
then fill air in the tires. Make sure you put in the correct amount.
L.O. 2 Perform physical and functional inspection

Information Sheet 1.2-1

Electrical components operation in the vehicle
 Headlights. There are two types of headlights—low beam and high beam. These
lights allow the driver to see the roadway in the dark, while also signaling to other
motorists that a car is present. Low beams provide a light distribution to give
adequate forward and lateral illumination without blinding other road users with
excessive glare. High beams provide an intense, center-weighted distribution of light
with no particular control of glare and should only be used when there are no visible
cars in front of you (coming or going).

 Tail lights. Tail lights are required to produce only red light at the rear of the vehicle
and are wired such that they are lit whenever the headlights are on. This helps
drivers who are traveling behind you to recognize that you’re there and how far ahead
you are.

 Daytime running lights. These lights are located in both the front and rear of the
car and generally turn on automatically; although in some cars you do have an
option to turn them off. They are designed to make you more visible to other vehicles,
but some drivers find them distracting in oncoming cars.

 Fog lights. Located near the headlights, these lights and are generally mounted low
in order to prevent the light from refracting on the fog and glaring back toward you
(the driver). These should only be used during fog when normal headlights are not
effective.

 Signal lights. Also known as turn signals or “blinkers” these are located in the front
and back of the car, beside the head and tail lights. When activated, they indicate to
other drivers that you’ll soon be turning (in the indicated direction of the signal) and
will most likely be slowing down to do so.

 Brake lights. Located to the side of your rear lights, they signal drivers that you’re
slowing down or stopping. Since they’re only activated when you apply the brakes
you don’t need to worry about misusing them. However, you do have to make sure
they are properly maintained and do not burn out.

 Hazard lights. Also known as flashers, they are located in the front and back of the
vehicle. When turned on they admit a flashing signal to warn other drivers that
you’re experiencing a problem, are in distress, or warning of an immediate danger
(rocks in the road, slow funeral procession). They should only be used as warnings of
distress or traffic problems—never as stop signal or illegal parking permit.

 Driving lamps. These are located inside the cab of your vehicle and are used to
brighten the cab for the passenger or driver to safely check maps or directions, or
locate items in the dark. They should never be used for long periods.
Operational Sheet 1.2-1

Inspect Electrical components operation in the vehicle

Inspect Cabin Lights

 These are located inside the cab of your vehicle and are used to brighten the cab for
the passenger or driver to safely check maps or directions, or locate items in the
dark. They should never be used for long periods.

 Turn ignition switch to accessories. Switch on the cabin lights, change bulbs if it
doesn't light.

Inspect Gauges

• Turn the ignition switch on, all indicator lights must appear (engine check, oil, parking
brake, seat belt, battery).

• Start the engine, indicator lights such as engine check, oil, and battery must disappear.

• Indicator lights such as seatbelt and parking brake must disappear when parking brake is
disengaged and seat belt/s are worn.
Vehicle's Exterior lights Inspection

Inspect Head, Park, and Tail Lights

• Turn the ignition switch to accessories.
• Turn on park lights, inspect including tail light.
• Turn on headlights, and then inspect including tail lights.

Inspect Brake Lights and reverse light

• Ask a friend to depress the brake pedal, inspect if brake lights are working.
• Move the gear selector to reverse and check if reverse lights are working.

Inspect signal lights

• Pull the signal light switch down and inspect the left signal lights if it is working.
• Pull the signal light switch up and inspect the right signal lights if it is working.
Information Sheet 1.2-2

Engine Oil

Oil Viscosity

Viscosity, in a general sense, is the measure of any liquid’s resistance to flow. To be

more specific, there are two ways viscosity can be viewed: kinematic viscosity or dynamic

viscosity.

Kinematic viscosity is a fluid’s resistance to flow and shear due to gravity. If a given

lubricant’s viscosity is lower, it will flow faster. For example, if you pour two containers, one

filled with water, and the other with syrup, you would notice that the water flows faster due

to its lower viscosity. Additionally, an oil’s high-temperature viscosity grade is determined

by its kinematic viscosity. This is where the “30” in 5W-30 synthetic oil comes from.

Alternatively, there is dynamic viscosity, which is essentially the amount of energy

required to move an object through the lubricant. Dynamic viscosity is measured using the

Cold Crank Simulator test, and is used to determine an oil’s low-temperature viscosity

grade. This would be the “5W” in Amsoil XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil.

Additionally, you should be aware of what exactly the viscosity index (VI) is. The

viscosity index refers to how much the viscosity of a lubricant changes due to fluctuations

in temperature. An oil’s VI is measured at 40°C and 100°C. IF a liquid’s viscosity does not

change much between these temperatures, it will have a higher VI and vice versa. You can

find the VI of an Amsoil motor oil on its product data sheet. Synthetic Amsoil products
generally have a high VI rating, making them more stable than competitors’ products. Find

out more about the benefits of synthetic Am soil motor oil

Viscosity Affect To Engine

Viscosity is the most important property of oil when considering engine protection.

Viscosity determines how your engine’s lubricant will react to changes in speed, pressure,

and temperature.

For example, during cold winter months, it may be difficult to get your car to start

first thing in the morning. This is because colder temperatures cause lubricants to thicken

and require more energy to circulate due to reduced flow. As a result, your vehicle’s

crankshaft has to push through thick oil in order to spin fast enough for your car to start.

This can cause components in your engine to experience wear and tear. However, when the

weather is warmer, the oil becomes thinner and easier to circulate. Amsoil products offer a

wide variety to choose from in order to accommodate any engine.

If You Use the Wrong Oil Viscosity

Depending on whether the viscosity of your oil is too high or too low, you might

experience several problems, such as poor fuel economy, increased wear on your engine,

and increased chemical breakdown.

Low-Viscosity Oil

Low-viscosity motor oil may be too thin, and can compromise the protection of your

engine over time. A thin lubricant may not be able to adequately fill the gaps between

engine components in order to prevent contact between them.

These effects can be worsened by extreme heat and stress levels. When temperatures rise,

oil becomes thinner. If your oil is already thinner than it should be for your vehicle, then
extremely hot temperatures are going to cause your motor oil to not be able to develop a

thick enough film to prevent metal to metal contact.

Oil that is too thin for your vehicle can lead to engine components wearing out and

can lead to insufficient oil pressure.

High-Viscosity Oil

Many consumers make the mistake of assuming that motor oils with higher viscosities are

always the best option due to them usually offering better protection against wear.

However, this is not always the case.

First of all, thicker oils are much more difficult to circulate throughout the engine, which

makes your vehicle much less fuel-efficient. This can also make it more difficult to start

your vehicle, which can increase engine wear.

Just as how thinner oils become even worse in warm weather, the disadvantages of thicker

oil become more important during colder months. When temperatures drop, oil becomes

thicker, which can put significant strain on your battery, and may even leave you unable to

start your vehicle.

Lastly, high-viscosity oil is not able to transfer heat between engine components as easily

as low-viscosity oil is able to. Moreover, thicker oil can increase internal operating

temperatures, which can ultimately lead to engine failure as oil passages become blocked

by sludge.
Engine Oil Viscosity Classification (SAE)
SAE, Society of Automotive Engineers, has created a classification for the viscosity of
engine oils that helps determine the thickness of the oil. SAE distinguishes 14 viscosity
classes – 6 winter marked with a number before the letter W (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W,
25W) and 8 summer classes with a number after the letter W (W8, W12, W16, W20, W30,
W40, W50, W60).

Winter grades of oils are determined based on the maximum viscosity that the oil
achieves at a given negative temperature, limiting pump ability temperature and minimum
viscosity at 100 degrees C.
Summer classes, in turn, according to the minimum and maximum viscosity at 100
degrees C. and minimum viscosity at 150 degrees C.

Engine Oil Quality Classification (API)

API, American Petroleum Institute, has created a quality classification of engine oils. The
basic division concerns here gasoline engines (oils marked with the letter „S”) and diesel
(„C”).
Always followed by a letter, which here means belonging to the type of a given engine,
followed by a second letter denoting the proper standard of this operating fluid.
Importantly, the further letter is in the alphabet, the higher and newer the oil standard,
and thus its class is better, e.g. SN> SL, SL> SG, CI> CS, etc.
In addition, in the case of oils for diesel engines, there are also sub-standards occurring
after a combination of letters and specified in numbers, e.g. CF-2, CH-4, CJ-4.
 When purchasing oil for your car’s engine, you can always use oil with a higher
standard and better parameters than those for which the engine was designed, but only
with „neighboring” standards (e.g. SN oil instead of SM).
Topping up with a lower standard oil (weaker parameters) can lead to faster wear or even
damage to the power unit. A similar effect can be obtained when adding oils meeting the
new standards to older units, e.g. SN oil instead of SG.

Quality grades of oils for gasoline engines:

• SG – mainly for cars produced before 1993; they guarantee good parameters in terms of
abrasion resistance, durability, and protection against pollution.

• SH – standard introduced in 1993, mainly for cars manufactured before 1996; values
close to the SG standard.

• SJ – introduced in 1996; for cars manufactured before 2001; requires lower phosphorus
content and less evaporation compared to the SH class.

• SL – introduced in 2001; for cars with engines manufactured before 2004; greater limits
for sludge when operating at high temperatures than in the SJ standard.

• SM – introduced in 2004; better oxidation resistance parameters; prevents the build-up of

impurities; greater lubrication performance at low temperatures.

• SN – introduced in 2010; better protection for turbochargers and pistons at high

temperatures; less sedimentation and fuel economy.
Oil quality grades for diesel engines:
• CC – for light diesel engines; prevents the accumulation of dirt generated during high-
temperature operation.

• CD – for heavily operated four-stroke diesel engines; with additives to prevent abrasion
and accumulation of deposits.

• CD-II – for two-stroke diesel engines.

• CE – for lower-class engines that work under heavy loads.

• CF-4 – better standard than CE in terms of piston wear and pollution.

• CF-2 – for two-stroke diesel engines instead of CD-II oils.

• CF – replacement of the CD standard for engines using poor fuel quality.

• CG-4 – for units with low emissions instead of CD class.

• CE and CF-4; the class meets the emission requirements of 1994

• CH-4 – to American diesel engines that emit a small amount of toxic exhaust; compliant
with exhaust gas emission requirements from 1998; replacement for the CD class,

• CE, CF-4 and CG-4; introduced in 1998.

• CI-4 – introduced in 1998 to units generating small amounts of exhaust gas (especially for
engines with EGR exhaust gas recirculation); complies with the requirements of exhaust
emissions from 2004; replacement for CD, CE, CF-4, CG-4, and CH-4 classes; introduced
in 2002.

• CJ-4 – for diesel engines with increased exhaust purity with a particulate filter, DPF or
EGR system; in place of class CI-4; introduced in 2006.
ACEA engine oil quality classification
In addition to the API classification, some car manufacturers, including Caterpillar,
Mercedes-Benz, Ford, General Motors, Mack, M.A.N., Volkswagen and Volvo determine oil
quality based on their own tests. ACEA (European Association of Automotive
Manufacturers) created its classification in 1996. Division of oil quality class according to
ACEA distinguishes their three basic groups:

1. A/B –oils for gasoline and diesel engines for passenger cars and light commercial
vehicles

• A1/B1 – for gasoline and diesel engines using low friction and low viscosity oils (HTHS
high temperature viscosity 2.6 – 3.5 mPas [pascal per second]).

• A3/B3 – for gasoline and diesel engines operated in difficult conditions and with extended
mileage between oil changes; they have a constant viscosity index and high parameters.

• A3/B4 – for gasoline units and direct injection diesel engines; constant viscosity index;
high parameters; also, as a replacement for class A3 / B3.

• A5/B5 – for gasoline and diesel engines with extended mileage between replacements that
use low friction and low viscosity oils (HTHS 2.9 – 3.5 mPas); high parameters and constant
viscosity index.

2. C – „low saps” oils, or low ash oils; for gasoline and diesel engines in cars adapted
to new exhaust gas purity standards

It is worth devoting a separate paragraph to ecological oils marked with the letter „C”
according to ACEA, because it is the most important class in this list. These are low-ash
oils that all owners of cars equipped with particulate filters and state-of-the-art catalytic
systems must pay attention to.

Their characteristic feature is the small amount of sulphated ash that is formed in the
combustion process. As a result, less ash is deposited in the DPF filter or the catalyst,
which causes it to clog more slowly. By using these oils, the life span of these expensive
vehicle components is automatically extended.

Their name „Low SAPS”, from the English Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, Sulfur comes from
the first letters of dangerous to the engine and ecology of compounds, and thus: sulfate ash
(SA) and phosphorus (P) and sulfur (S) compounds.
• C1 – for gasoline and diesel engines equipped with a DPF or catalyst, in which SAPS oils
with low coefficient of friction and low viscosity (HTHS higher than 2.9 mPas) are
required;constant viscosity index; high parameters, extend the life of the DPF and the
catalyst, save fuel.

• C2 – for gasoline and diesel engines equipped with a DPF filter or catalyst (extends their
life) requiring low viscosity oils (HTHS higher than 2.9 mPas) and a low coefficient of
friction; reduce combustion.

• C3 – for gasoline and diesel engines equipped with a catalyst or DPF (extend their life),
but without the HTHS viscosity requirement.

• C4 – for gasoline and diesel engines equipped with a catalyst or DPF (extend their life)
with a HTHS viscosity requirement of 3.5 mPas.

3. E – oils for diesel engines used in trucks

The Different Types of Engine Oil

Conventional Oil

Conventional oil is your standard motor oil. It’s manufactured from crude oil that’s pulled
from the ground and then refined in a factory. Different additives and processes are done to
improve its viscosity (thickness) and engine protective properties, and it’s then bottled and
sold for use in your engine. Simple as that.

There are up and downsides to this. The biggest upside: cost. Conventional oil is an
extremely budget-friendly option for keeping your engine protected and your car running
smoothly. It’s also fairly effective—there aren’t really any bad motor oils on the market
these days; as long as you get the right weight and quantity, you can expect reasonable
performance. However, their downsides are greater than other types. Because of the
naturally-occurring materials, they tend to be less refined. They also offer a lower degree of
protection than other types as well.

Full-Synthetic Oil

Synthetic motor oil is manufactured entirely in a factory, or lab. Because of this, they tend
to be far more consistent; it’s easier to control manufacturing processes when all of your
materials are held to much more stringent standards. Thus, these oils are more refined,
and are overall better for the engine.

But this comes at a cost—literally. Full-synthetic motor oil is more expensive than
conventional oil. Not by a lot, mind you, but generally you can expect to pay anywhere from
an extra $20 to $40 for your oil change if you use a full-synthetic oil, depending on how
much your car takes. Synthetic oils also tend to last longer, going for longer periods of time
and distance than conventional oils do before needing to be changed.

Synthetic Blend Oil

Synthetic blend oils are a kind of hybrid oil manufactured from both synthetic and natural
materials. In other words, it’s a blend of both conventional and synthetic oils to try to
capture some of the benefits of both while reducing their drawbacks.
The results are pretty much exactly what you’d expect: they provide better protection and
performance than a conventional oil, but not quite as good as a full-synthetic oil. They last
a little bit longer than conventional oils, but not as long as full-synthetic. When it comes to
cost, they’re a little bit more expensive than a conventional oil, but not as much as a full-
synthetic. Overall, they’re an okay middle ground for those looking to keep costs down, but
want to give their car a little more help.

High-Mileage Oil

High-mileage oil is a somewhat unique branch of oil that’s entirely on its own. These oil
have a blend of unique additives included which are designed to help protect engine seals,
which in turn helps prevent oil evaporation and improves overall performance. For cars that
are getting a little long on the odometer, this extra protection is key as oil burn-off becomes
a little bit more common of a problem, contributing to more engine wear and a decreased
lifespan.

If the drive a car over 75,000 miles, it’s strongly advised that you use a high-mileage oil.
AUTOMOTIVE GEAR LUBRICANTS
There’s more to automotive gear oils than users realize. You can’t use just any old
gear oil in an automotive gear application. In many applications an EP gear oil will actually
damage some materials. And using a non-EP gear oil where an EP gear oil is needed, such
as in a hypoid final drive, will lead to excessive wear and premature gear failure. Just as
the gear types used in automotive gear applications differ, so do the gear lubricants they
require.

AUTOMOTIVE MANUAL TRANSMISSION

Industry organizations have set out classifications to define gear lubricant performance for
many years. The most widely used, the API (the American Petroleum Institute), created a
range of “Lubricant Service Designations for Automotive Manual Transmissions, Manual
Transaxles, and Axles”. Some of these descriptions are still in use today to describe
automotive gear oil performance. The API also recently added a new classification to meet
evolving heavy duty manual transmission needs. Three API gear lubricant service
designations are in use today.

API GL-4 classifies passenger car and light truck manual gear box lubricants and oils used
in tractor gearboxes and spiral bevel gear final drives.

API GL-5 defines passenger car, light and heavy truck and bus hypoid final drives where
there is a large amount of sliding movement across the gears.

And API MT-1 is a recently introduced classification for oil used in manual transmissions in
buses and heavy duty trucks.
AUTOMOTIVE HYPOID DIFFERENTIAL
Older API Service Designations GL-1, GL-2, GL-3 and GL-6 are now obsolete because
they were originally designed for service conditions that are no longer experienced today or
the gear sets used to test oils against these classifications are no longer available today.

Many automotive manufacturers demand that lubricants meeting their own in-house
specifications are used in the equipment that they manufacture. A number of automotive
OEMs have gear lubricant requirements. Mercedes-Benz, MAN, Mack, ZF, GM, Ford, Volvo
and many others all have specifications for the gear lubricants to be used in their
equipment, particularly where special warranty or extended lubricant service is offered.

An API GL-5 lubricant will very likely have a large amount of sulphur-phosphorus
extreme pressure (EP) additive in its formulation. Extreme pressure additive provides very
good gear face protection. But in a gear application where there are copper alloy materials,
an automotive “EP”/API GL-5 hypoid gear lubricant might attack the copper alloy and
produce corrosive wear.

As well as the oil meeting the right performance classification, the correct gear oil
viscosity must also be used in automotive transmission and final drive transmission
applications. A more viscous oil than specified will induce poor shift quality, run hotter,
and produce lower fuel efficiency. A less viscous oil than specified won’t generate the fluid
film needed between components and wear and shorter component life will result.

Below is an indication of the number of transmission oils and other gear oils that
Trans Diesel carries to cover most of the transmission and final drive requirements of
today’s automotive fleets. Automatic Transmission Fluids, earthmoving equipment
transmission fluids, and universal tractor transmission/hydraulic/wet brake oils would
dramatically increase this number of products.
API GL-4, SAE 75W-90 Fuel efficient manual transmission oil. Not
suitable for API GL-5 applications.

API GL-4/GL-5/MT-1, SAE 75W-90 Synthetic manual transmission and hypoid final
drive lubricant.

API GL-5 (Limited Slip) / MT-1, Synthetic hypoid / limited slip diff oil

SAE 75W-90, SAE 75W-140

API GL-4 / MT-1, SAE 90 Synthetic, heavy duty manual transmission oil,
Eaton Road Ranger

API GL-4, SAE 80W-90 Heavy duty manual transmissions oil

API GL-5, SAE 80W-90, SAE 85W- Extreme Pressure oil for API GL-5 / hypoid gear
140 applications

API GL-5 (LS) / MT-1, SAE 85W-90 Hypoid / limited slip diff / heavy duty manual
transmission oil

API GL-4, SAE 80W Tractor hydraulic fluid suitable for manual
transmissions requiring a GL-4 SAE 80W oil

Gear oils

Gear oil is a fluid lubricant used in gears (gearboxes) for reduction of friction and wear of
the gear tooth surfaces, removal of the heat generated by the operating gear
and corrosion protection of the gear parts.

Gear (gearbox) is a mechanical assembly transmitting energy of rotational motion and

changing its parameters (torque, speed, direction) by means of toothed wheels and
cylinders.
The principal gear types are as follows:

 Spur gear
 Helical gear
 Herringbone gear
 Bevel gear
 Worm gear
 Hypoid gear

The following properties of gear oils are important for their operation:
 Proper viscosity;
 Ability to withstand extreme pressures (EP);
 Thermal and oxidation stability;
 Corrosion and rust protection;
 Compatibility with seal materials.
Gear oils should provide reliable, efficient (low friction), low maintenance operation of gears
at different speeds, temperatures, oil contaminations.

Types of gear oils

Combinations of additives impart special functions to gear oils:

 Rust and oxidation preventive gear oils

Rust and oxidation preventive (R&O) oils are mainly mineral base. They contain rust and
oxidation inhibitors. The viscosity of R&O oils according to the ISO grading system is
between 32 to 320.

 Compounded gear oils

Compounded oils are mineral base. They contain rust and oxidation inhibitors,
demulsifiers and up to 10% of fatty oils for better lubricity. Compounded oils are used
mainly in worm gears. The viscosity of compounded oils according to the ISO grading
system is between 460 to 1000.

 Extreme Pressure (EP) gear oils

EP oils may be either mineral or synthetic base. They contain EP additives, rust and
oxidation inhibitors, anti-foaming agents and demulsifiers. The viscosity of EP oils
according to the ISO grading system is between 68 to 1500.
 Synthetic gear oils

Synthetic gear oils may be based on polyalphaolefins (PAO), esters oils or polyglycols.
They may contain EP additives, rust and oxidation inhibitors, anti-foaming agents and
demulsifiers. The viscosity of synthetic oils according to the ISO grading system is between
32 to 6800.
Synthetic gear oils are used for gears operating under extreme conditions: very low or very
high temperatures, high pressures.

Viscosity of gear oils

Viscosity of gear oils (lubricants) is a compromise between the gear parameters

requiring low viscosity and those requiring high viscosity.
Low viscosity is favorable for: high speed, low loaded gears with a good tooth surface finish.
Low viscosity provides thin oil film, low friction (high mechanical efficiency), good cooling
(heat removal) conditions.
Viscosity of gear oil depends on the temperature, therefore an oil selected for a
particular gear should provide its reliable operation within the expected temperature range.

The low temperature limit of gear oil is 9°F (5°C) higher than its pour point (the lowest
temperature, at which the oil may flow).
Mineral oils possess relatively high pour point - about 20°F (-7°C). Pour point of synthetic
oils may reach -50°F (-46°C).

The highest operation temperature in spur gears is about 130°F (54°C). In the worm gears
the temperature may reach 200°F (93°C).
SAE Designation of gear oils by viscosity

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) established a viscosity grading system for gear
and Engine oils.

According to the SAE viscosity grading system all oils are divided into two classes:
monograde and multigrade:
 Monograde gear oils

Monograde gear oils are designated by one number (70, 90, 140, 250, etc.). The number
indicates a level of the oil viscosity at a particular temperature. The higher the grade
number, the higher the oil viscosity.
Viscosity of gear oils designated with a number only without the letter “W” (SAE 80, SAE
90, SAE 140 etc.) was specified at the temperature 212°F (100°C). These gear oils are
suitable for use at high ambient temperatures.

Viscosity of gear oils designated with a number followed by the letter “W” (SAE 70W, SAE
75W, SAE 80W etc.) was specified at the temperature 0°F (-18°C). The letter “W”
means winter. These grades are used at low ambient temperatures.

 Multigrade gear oils

Viscosity of gear oils may be stabilized by polymeric additives (viscosity index improvers).
Viscosity of such gear oils is specified at both high and low temperature. These oils are
called multigrades and they are designated by two numbers and the letter “W” (SAE 75W-
90, SAE 80W-90, SAE 85W-140 etc.). The first number of the designation specify the oil
viscosity at cold temperature, the second number specifies the oil viscosity at high
temperature.
For example: SAE 85W-140 oil has a low temperature viscosity similar to that of SAE 85W,
but it has a high temperature viscosity similar to that of SAE 140.
Multigrade gear oils are used in a wide temperature range.

Designation of gear oils by performance

American Petroleum Institute (API) established a performance grading system for gear oils
(mostly automotive gear oils). According to the system gear oils are designated by the letters
GL (Gear Lubricant) followed by a number 1,2,3,4 or 5:

 GL-1
GL-1 gear oil has rust and oxidation protection effect but it does not contain extra pressure
(EP) additives. the oil is used in low load applications only.

 GL-2
GL-2 gear oil contains more additives than GL-1, but without EP effect. It is used in
medium loaded worm gears.

 GL-3
GL-3 gear oil possesses light EP effect. It is used in non-hypoid gears.

 GL-4
GL-4 gear oil possesses moderate EP effect. It is most widely used oil.

 GL-5
GL-5 gear oil possesses high EP effect. It is used in hypoid and other highly loaded gears.
Information Sheet 1.2-3
Engine Coolant
Coolant (or antifreeze) protects your engine from freezing while defending components
against corrosion. It plays a critical role in sustaining engine heat balance by removing
heat.
In a heavy-duty diesel engine, only one-third of the total energy produced works to propel
the vehicle forward. An additional one-third is removed as heat energy by the exhaust
system. The remaining one-third of heat energy produced is taken away by the engine
coolant.
This heat removed by the coolant provides a balance in the removal of engine heat
that is critical in ensuring that the engine operates properly. Overheating could result in
accelerated deterioration of the oil and the engine itself.
While water provides the best heat transfer, glycol is also used in engine coolants to provide
freeze protection. The addition of glycol slightly reduces the heat transfer of the water, but
in most climates and applications, freeze protection is critical.
Nearly all engines use coolants with similar base fluids: a 50/50 mix of ethylene
glycol and water. In some circumstances, industrial engines may use other base fluids,
such as additized water or a mixture of propylene glycol and water.
In addition to the base fluid, there are a small amount of other ingredients including
corrosion inhibitors, antifoams, dyes and other additives. While these other ingredients
make up only a small fraction of the coolant, they are what differentiate one coolant from
another.

The Different Colors of Coolant

If an engine is used without coolant (antifreeze), it can suffer extended damage

especially during winter. In the summer time, cooling can be obtained using plain water in
an emergency situation although not recommended much beyond this since it’s much
easier to boil over as well. Also in wintertime, water solidifies (freezes) and expands in
volume which can crack your engine block, radiator and heater cores. This is the reason
coolant is mixed with distilled water in a minimum 50/50 proportion. It lowers the freeze
point of the coolant to protect it from freezing, even in the worst winter conditions. Coolant
in the summer time works as an anti-boil and protects the system components from
corrosion, which is a big deal especially with aluminum components.

Benefits of using coolant

Has the role of helping the engine to cool in the summer time (it keeps the engine from
boiling over). Also protects the engine from freezing during winter.

However, besides these well-known benefits, there are also others worth mentioning:

 Anti-corrosive. (The fluid will not attack the metals it comes in contact with and it won’t
destroy it over time)

 Prevents deposits. (Prevents limestone deposits and others similar to it which could
reduce the cooling system’s efficiency)

 Anti-foam. (Coolant has special additives in it that prevents foam from forming. If foam
appears, the cooling system’s efficiency might be reduced)
The coolant liquid be changed

Theoretically it should be good for an indefinite period. This is in theory, however in

real world conditions, regardless of its quality, coolant (antifreeze) should be changed once
every 2-5 years (average time after which it loses much of its benefits, unless specifically
formulated as ‘lifetime’ on the bottle).

One should not forget to change their coolant because in the winter time, the engine
can suffer irremediable damage.

Coolant (Antifreeze) liquid is tested using a device called an Antifreeze/Coolant

Tester. This can be found at any car shop/parts store or online. Another option is just to
simply ask the mechanic to test your coolant efficiency before winter settles in.

Types of coolant liquids

Coolant (Antifreeze) can be found in more than 1 color. This can be confusing for
people who don’t know what each color indicates. We will break it down for you to better
understand why this liquid comes in a multitude of colors. Colors include blue, yellow,
green, red, pink, turquoise, orange and purple.

Because a vehicle can pretty much run any type of coolant which is safe for
aluminum, you should consider the type depending on the kind of protection you’re seeking
from it(prevents corrosion and preserves the metals and aluminum parts) and also
depending on how often you desire to flush your coolant system.

There are 3 types of coolants:

Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT)

Commonly used in the cars produced in USA between 1920 and 1990.
This contains silicates and phosphate corrosion inhibitors to protect metal parts such as
the radiator and engine.
Usually found in a bright green color, it is recommended to be flushed out of the cooling
system every 30,000 miles or every 2 years. It’s typically used in older cars manufactured
before the mid-1990s ( Domestic vehicles from ’20s to ’90s, GM, Ford, Chrysler)

Organic Acid Technology (OAT)

Present in newer cars all over the world, OAT coolant color ranges from orange, bright
red, red, blue and dark green.
This does not contain silicates or phosphates, however it contains corrosion inhibitors that
enables it to last for a much longer period of time. Special additives are used to prevent
rust and corrosion, however metal parts could support some wear in time. It is
recommended to be flushed out of the cooling system every 135,000 miles or every 10
years. Typically used in newer cars. While usable in older model cars also, it is best to
check the owner’s manual to make sure that OAT coolants would be safe and effectively
used. (Typically used in GM, VW, Honda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Toyota)

Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT)

A mix between IAT and OAT coolants, it is designed for new cars. This contains added
silicates that increase aluminium protection and prevents corrosion. Additives are also
present to prevent rusting. To differentiate these a little easier, HOAT coolants are found in
yellow, turquoise, pink, blue or purple colors.
It is recommended to be flushed out of the system every 150,000 miles or 5 years.
(Typically used in Major European, German and Asian car manufacturers, Chrysler)

Rule of thumb, if your car was born with a specific coolant color, you shouldn’t
change it. OAT works great in systems that were built for it but does poorly in old-style
radiators that use lead solder. It tends to attack and eat (destroy) the radiator from the
inside-out and works too slowly to protect the radiator from corrosion. However this doesn’t
happen overnight, it might take some time until your radiator is damaged.
Important to remember is that conventional and OAT coolant types don’t go together.
Never mix them together in your radiator unless specifically designed to be mixes with
other types, because in the long run it can end up destroying your system.

Also pay attention to the coolant system capacity as written in your owner’s manual.
Proper coolant level is important. Having less in the system than the designed capacity
lowers efficiency and can result in overheating.

Mixing different coolants together does not boost their benefits. For example
adding OAT/HOAT to a IAT coolant does not provide the IAT coolant with a longer life,
however it cancels OAT/HOAT benefits and makes the mixed concoction only good up to a
maximum of 2 years or less in some cases. Also it is believed by some that mixing coolants
in a radiator might lead to coolant gelling in the right unfortunate circumstances.

How to prepare the vehicle prescribed to be use coolant?

Coolant comes in a concentrated formula and needs to be mixed with water at a 50-
50 ratio for it to work, unless it is marked otherwise and already premixed for you. Even if
modern coolants are able to work with today’s level of chlorides and hardness found in tap
water, users are advised to create the mix using distilled water to reduce corrosion levels.
Tap water contains magnesium, calcium and hardness ions that contribute to scale and
deposits in your radiator that reduce cooling efficiency. Also it contains chlorides that can
be very corrosive.

When mixing coolant and distilled water together, carefully follow the percentages on
the bottle depending on your specifics. (for example, if winters are harsher, most coolants
recommend a mix of 40% distilled water and 60% coolant)

Best practices

When you decide to change your antifreeze/coolant liquid make sure you replace it
with the same color or that your car is compatible with other colors (see owner
manual).When changing the coolant, it is best to drain it all and then top off with
water/distilled water, start the engine and let it circulate completely and then drain again.
For best results, this should be done 2-3 times. This helps evacuate the coolant from even
the deepest parts, nooks and crannies of your cooling system and also helps dislocate any
old deposits that might have formed. Add the new coolant using the tips above and make
sure you at least follow the 50-50 ratio. Best would be to read the instructions on the label
to prepare the PERFECT mix.
Even though it may sound good or even tempting to add more coolant than water, in reality
this reduces the efficiency of the coolant liquid. In order to reduce the risk of deposits and
to keep the protection levels high, it is recommended that the system is heated and
circulated at least every 30 days. This applies to all coolant liquids.
INFORMATION SHEET 1.2-4

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUIDS

Transmission Fluid
Transmission fluid keeps the transmission lubricated, which can prevent many expensive
issues from developing.

Types of Transmission Fluid

TYPE F

Originally made for Fords that had bronze clutches, Type F fluid is one that really doesn’t
get much use anymore. Bronze clutches haven’t been used since the 1970s, so unless
you’re looking for transmission fluid to replenish a classic car or an antique, your vehicle
likely has another type.

DEXRON III/MERCON

One of the most common transmission fluids out there, Dexron/Mercon formulations work
with most GMs, Fords, and imports. Check your owner’s manual for the official
recommendation before assuming this is the fluid you need, though.

HFM-STYLE FLUIDS

Similar to the Dexron/Mercon transmission fluid, HFM fluids provide slightly different
friction characteristics that are better suited to some types of transmissions. This fluid is
on the market under a couple of different names and is used by a number of imports.

Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is engineered to help:

• Provide outstanding resistance to oil breakdown and deposits

• Improve overall transmission durability and cleanliness

Mobil ATF D/M automatic transmission fluid provides excellent oxidation and friction
stability, anti-wear properties and low-temperature fluidity desired for most automatic
transmissions.

Mobil ATF 3309 is an exceptionally high performance lubricant that meets original
equipment manufacturers’ specifications for use in certain slip-controlled, lock-up
automatic transmissions.
Mobil Type F ATF is an automatic transmission fluid that is made from high quality base
oils with viscosity index improvers, antioxidants, anti-wear agents, defoamants and special
additives to provide the controlled frictional characteristics of a Type F fluid in automatic
transmission applications.

Benefits of Changing Your Transmission Fluid

Better fuel economy. Fresh transmission fluid has better resistance to oxidation and
meets the lubricating and viscosity standards more easily. These factors can translate into
better fuel economy for your car.

Smoother shifting. When the regularly check and service the car’s transmission fluid, it
will result in the smoother movement for your gears. In the long run, it will also protect the
gearbox.

Reduced costs. Changing the own transmission fluid can save the time and money. It can
reduce the costs even further by using a synthetic transmission fluid, which has a longer
overall lifespan and a couple of other features that make it last longer.

Extended transmission life. A well-maintained car is one that gets regular transmission
fluid top-offs and a complete flush and replenishment when needed. This routine
maintenance will help keep the transmission in great working order, and likely extend the
life of it in the long run.

Rust reduction. Transmissions can be pretty finicky when it comes to stuff like rust and
corrosion. Moisture, chemicals, and a whole host of other factors can wreak havoc on your
transmission, so be sure to change the transmission fluid when recommended to reduce
these potential problems.

Automatic Transmission.

Newer model vehicle transmission service and/or flushes are due on average about every
50,000 miles while older models are due about every 30,000 miles. If a CVT transmission
the service intervals can range from 30,000 to 100,000 based on the manufacturer.
However, transmissions that aren't checked and serviced can potentially fail without
regular maintenance.

Regular transmission service depends on the make and model of the vehicle. The way driver
drives may also determine the frequency of maintenance. Driving in heavy traffic with
frequent stops and starts may require servicing more often. Some vehicle manufacturers
have created a "fill-for-life" automatic transmission fluid that they claim never requires a
fluid change. But still contest that these fluids should be changed periodically to ensure
maximum transmission life and performance.

Manual Transmission.

The vehicle’s manual transmission gives direct control of the transmission. It may also
increase fuel economy.

Manual transmission fluid is thicker than an automatic transmission fluid and therefore
it's best to always check the manufacturer’s recommendations. Manual transmission
specifications can vary greatly depending on make and model. Checking the fluid level to
see if it needs a top off or change is difficult but not impossible

It should be noted that the transmission fluid must be changed every 15,000 miles.
Purpose of Power Steering Fluid

Power Steering reservoir

Power steering fluid is an integral component of a vehicle's power steering pump
operation. Power steering fluid is housed in the power steering pump reservoir, and it
performs a variety of functions.

Lubricate Power Steering Pump

One of the main purposes of power steering fluid is to lubricate the power steering
pump unit, the housing reservoir that stores a vehicle's power steering fluid. It also serves
to pressurize power steering fluid and propel it through the entire power steering system.

Lubricate Power Steering Gear Unit

Along with lubricating a vehicle's power steering pump unit, power steering fluid
performs another vital power steering system function: lubricating the power steering gear
unit. The power steering gear unit is the part of a power steering system that meshes with
the vehicle steering rod mechanism that ultimately moves a vehicle's front tires.

Provide Hydraulic Pressure

Power steering fluid, after being pressurized and pumped by the power steering
pump, flows throughout a vehicle's power steering system, providing the hydraulic, or
fluid, pressure necessary to operate the mechanical components of a power steering
system.

Reduce Power Steering System Friction

Power steering fluid serves to lubricate and oil the mechanical parts of a power
steering system. Like any other mechanical system with numerous meshing parts, a
power steering system has many linking parts that work together and ultimately cause
friction. Power steering fluid helps to minimize this friction, which in turn lessens power
steering system wear.

Reduce Power Steering System Temperature

Along with lubricating a power steering system, power steering fluid serves to
reduce the operating temperatures of the power steering gear unit and power steering
pump, two of the more critical, heat-producing parts of a power steering system.
Problems Caused by Low Power Steering Fluid

Power steering systems require a special type of hydraulic fluid. Housed in a

vehicle's power steering pump unit, power steering fluid performs a variety of critical
roles necessary to ensure the proper function of a vehicle's power steering system. Many
problems can result, however, if a vehicle's power steering fluid is not maintained at
proper levels.

Hard Vehicle Steering

A low power steering fluid level can often times cause a vehicle's steering to become
hard and labored. Adequate amounts of power steering fluid are necessary to enable a
vehicle's power steering system to function and operate at optimum levels. A lack of power
steering fluid in a vehicle's power steering system reduces the amount of hydraulic fluid
pressure necessary to efficiently operating the various parts of the entire power steering
system. Power steering fluid supplies the fluid force needed to operate the power steering
gears and to enable power steering gearbox operation. Low power steering fluid levels
reduce this hydraulic pressure, which commonly results in hard vehicle steering.

Pump Noise

It is very common for a low power steering fluid level to cause significant power
steering pump noise. An adequate amount of power steering fluid is required to ensure
the proper function and longevity of a power steering pump unit, which is a belt-driven
pump responsible for housing and circulating power steering pump fluid. A low level of
power steering fluid results in increased power steering pump friction, heat, and wear, all
of which can significantly reduce the operational life of the power steering pump while at
the same time cause excessive power steering pump noise.

Fluid Boiling

Many times a low power steering fluid level can result in excessive heating of power
steering fluid, a condition that can seriously degrade the fluid and cause it to boil. A low
power steering fluid level results in less available fluid to both lubricate and cool a power
steering pump unit. A lack of power steering pump lubrication and cooling leads to
excessive heat being generated within the power steering pump unit itself, a condition
that translates into the available level of power steering fluid becoming super-heated and
degraded. When this happens it is common for the power steering fluid to boil and lose all
of its lubricating and heat-reducing capabilities.

Gearbox Wear

The power steering gearbox is a set of gears within a vehicle's power steering system
designed to facilitate movement of a vehicle's front wheels. The power steering gearbox is
connected to the power steering pump by hydraulic fluid lines that deliver a constant
supply of power steering fluid to the power steering gearbox. A low power steering fluid
level, especially a chronic and severe low power steering fluid level, can lead to increased
friction and wear within the power steering gearbox assembly, a condition that can
significantly shorten the operational life of the power steering gearbox and negatively
affect its operation.

Prevention/Solution

Regularly checking the level and condition of a vehicle's power steering fluid is
recommended as part of a good preventative vehicle maintenance program. Although
power steering fluid is unlike motor oil and transmission fluid, both fluids that require
frequent changing, it does require periodic inspection to ensure adequate fluid levels and
to ensure that the fluid is in good condition. Rarely, power steering fluid can become
contaminated and/or degrade in quality and require draining and refill with clean, fresh
fluid. Inspection of the power steering pump assembly as well as the power steering pump
drive belt is recommended as part of a good power steering system maintenance program.

Types of Power Steering Fluid use

Use a fluid that meets the appropriate specification given in your owner’s manual. Some
vehicles use automatic transmission fluid in the power steering system.

For best protection against pump wear and best performance in temperature extremes,
use synthetic fluid.

Synthetics promote formation of a strong fluid film to prevent wear. Plus, they also flow
readily in cold weather to help silent that annoying power-steering-pump whine on frigid
mornings.

1. Dexron
2. Mercon
Brake Fluid
Your brake fluid is pressurized and adds power to your braking and keeps you from
running into other vehicles.

The three main types of brake fluid

DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5

DOT3 and DOT4 are glycol-based fluids, and DOT5 is silicon-based. The main difference is
that DOT3 and DOT4 absorb water, while DOT5 doesn't.

One of the important characteristics of brake fluid is its boiling point. Hydraulic systems
rely on an incompressible fluid to transmit force. Liquids are generally incompressible while
gases are compressible. If the brake fluid boils (becomes a gas), it will lose most of its ability
to transmit force. This may partially or completely disable the brakes. To make matters
worse, the only time you are likely to boil your brake fluid is during a period of prolonged
braking, such a drive down a mountain certainly not the best time for brake failure.

Brake fluid reservoir

DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5
As a DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid absorbs water, its boiling point decreases. It can absorb
water from the air, which is why you should avoid opening your car's brake fluid reservoir.
For the same reason, you should always keep containers of brake fluid tightly sealed.

DOT5 fluid does not absorb water. This means the boiling point will remain relatively
stable, but it also means that any water that does get into your brake system will tend to
form pure water pockets, which could cause brake corrosion.

Two other important things about brake fluid: DOT3 and DOT4 eat paint, so don't spill
either of these on your car. Also, none of the different types of brake fluid should be mixed.
They can react badly with each other and corrode your brake system.
Windshield washer fluid
Windshield washer fluid (also called windshield wiper fluid, wiper fluid, screen wash (in
the UK), or washer fluid) is a fluid for motor vehicles that is used in cleaning
the windshield with the windshield wiper while the vehicle is being driven.

A clean windshield is an integral part of having a safe driving experience. Along with high-
quality windshield wipers, It make sure that using a proper windshield washer fluid to keep
the front windshield clean in between car washes. Most windshield washer fluids are all the
same, but that’s hardly the case. Some formulas are so ineffective, that they’re basically
like water. Proper windshield washer fluids will break down dirt, dust, debris, and even
bugs on your windshield for a proper wipe.

Prestone All Season 3-in-1 Windshield Washer Fluid

Prestone offers a variety of high-quality windshield washer fluids and we’ll take a look at
three of the company’s products. The first is an all season 3-in-1 solution, specially
engineered to keep your windshield clean and clear all year long. It’s protected against
freezing in temperatures down to -27°F (-32°C) and is a de-icer to help melt ice quickly. The
solution also features a bug wash that penetrates even the toughest residue, breaking down
and removing bugs from your windshield. Helping make sure your glass is streak and glare
free is water repellent advanced beading technology.

This solution is ideal in most weather conditions, especially if you live in an area that
encounters snow or ice. It’s a pre-mixed fluid, so you don’t have to do anything but fill up your
reservoir with it.

Best Concentrate: Nextzett Kristall Klar Washer Fluid

One of the highest rated and most popular windshield washer fluids on Amazon is the Kristall
Klar washer fluid from Nextzett. It’s a 1:200 concentration, so each bottle makes over 12
gallons of washer fluid when mixed with water. The product is reasonably priced and promises
to deliver glare and smear-free cleaning. Its formula quickly removes bugs and dirt from your
windshield when used, while lubricants help reduce water skipping and shuddering. To top it
all off, the Kristall Klar washer fluid features water softeners that prevent hard water mineral
buildup, which could cause jets to clog.

It’s also ammonia-free, so it won’t harm chrome, paintwork, rubber, or plastic. Nextzett says it
leaves a fresh citrus scent and does not contain toxic methanol.

This product, however, isn’t recommended for areas with freezing climate. Nextzett does offer
an Anti-Frost Concentrate for winter and year-round protection in colder environments.
Operational Sheet 1.2-3
Checking Vehicle Fluids

Prerequisites

• Make sure that the vehicle is on level ground to get a correct reading on the dipstick.
If the vehicle is positioned more than 10 degrees diagonally for example, the dipstick
could read incorrectly.

• Do not check the oil level and appearance when the engine is running, be sure that
the engine has not been running for a few minutes. Wait for a few minutes to check
the oil to make sure any oil near the top of the engine can run down to the bottom.

A pre-delivery inspection is a standard procedure carried out by a vehicle sales and

workshop team. In a pre-delivery inspection, the vehicle is checked over to ensure that
everything is working properly and safely. Often a checklist is worked through.

Check Engine Oil

Vehicle on Level Ground

Step 1

• Open the engine hood and locate the engine oil dipstick. Usually what you see in the engine
bay would be the handle-end of the dipstick, which looks like a yellow plastic ring.
Step 2

• Pull out the dipstick and wipe the end clean with a cloth. Reinsert the dipstick into the
engine until it fully seats. Then, pull out the dipstick again.

Step 3

• Now read the end of the dipstick and get a correct oil level and
appearance reading. Once you know the level you can add, change the
oil, or leave it if within specification.
• It is important to check the engine oil appearance. The colour and consistency of the
oil is indicative of its age. Oil will slowly change in colour from a golden to brown, and
finally black.
Brake, Clutch, Steering Fluid

Inspect & Top up Brake Fluid

• Open the hood and locate the Brake Master Cylinder.

• Check fluid level on the Reservoir, top up if it is in minimum level, and change fluid if
it is Dark in colour or has any signs of dirt.

Clutch Fluid (If Applicable)

• Open the hood and locate the Clutch Master Cylinder.

• Check fluid level on the Reservoir, top up if it is in minimum level, and change fluid if
it is Dark in colour or has any signs of dirt.
Power Steering Fluid

• Open the hood and locate the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir.

• Open the reservoir and check the level, top up if it is in minimum, and replace fluid if
it is contaminated.

Radiator Coolant, Windshield Washer Fluid

Inspect Radiator Coolant

• Open the hood and locate the Radiator Cap or the Reservoir Cap.

• Inspect Fluid for discoloration, replace if discoloured.

• Top up if it is in minimum level.

Windshield Washer Fluid

• Locate the the windshield washer reservoir. Fill it with washer fluid if its empty
or half-filled.

• Turn the ignition switch to accessories and try the performance of the
windshield washer.
Operational Sheet 1.2-4

Fluid and Oil Leak Inspection

• After topping up and or replacing vehicle's fluids and oil, inspect for leakage.

• Check the hoses and underneath the vehicle for evidence of leakage.

If the leak is red

The vehicle uses two fluids that are red: power steering fluid and automatic
transmission fluid. They are both hydraulic fluids. Some vehicles actually use
automatic transmission fluid in their power steering systems.
Power steering fluid: This can be red, reddish-brown, or brown if it is old. It's
thin in consistency with an oily feel. It can smell like burnt marshmallows. You
will inspect the power steering system.

Automatic transmission fluid: This also starts out red when new, and then
progressively turns reddish-brown as it wears and the miles pile up. It feels oily
and slick, and thinner than the engine oil. It will smell like petroleum. If you
find this, a transmission inspection is in order, especially if you notice other
signs of a transmission problem, like delayed shifting when the engine is cold.

If the leaks are orange, green, yellow or pink

Leaks that are orange in color can originate in two different areas of your
vehicle:

Coolant: This can be an indicator that there is rust in the cooling system, and
the rust particles have mixed in with the coolant. Coolant feels slimy and has a
sweet odor. The top cause of serious engine damage is loss of coolant.

This comes in many fluorescent colors, and can leak from many places
throughout the cooling system. Coolant has a sweet odor and a slimy texture.
Losing coolant will lead to overheating if not addressed, and if the engine
overheats, an inspection of your cooling system can identify the source of the
leak.

Automatic transmission fluid: This can also turn an orange-ish color as it

ages.
If the leak is blue
Windshield washer fluid: This is thin and watery, and smells like window
cleaner. It can come in other colors, including green. Check to see if the washer
fluid reservoir is cracked.

If the leak is light yellow

Brake fluid: This hydraulic fluid starts out as light yellow, then gets
progressively darker over time and can end up dark brown if it's not
maintained. Brake fluid will feel oily to the touch, is very slippery, and may
smell like fish oil.

IMPORTANT: If you find this, it isn't safe to drive the car. Instead, inspect it
quickly. Brake lines or other parts may need repair or replacement.
If the leak is brown
Engine oil: This starts out as a light brown shade when new, then turns
darker brown over time, eventually becoming nearly black after picking up dirt
and byproducts of combustion as it circulates through the engine over
thousands of miles. Engine oil has a distinctive smell (check the engine
dipstick to get a whiff and compare), and feels thick and slippery to the touch.
You can keep the oil level topped off if the leak is minor, but it's important to
get even a small oil leak inspected and fixed sooner rather than later.
Information Sheet 1.2-5
ENGINE DIAGNOSTICS AND PERFORMANCE

Engine Problems
Engine diagnostics are a great way to make sure that everything under the
hood is working like it should. The engine is, after all, what keeps your car
running, and without each of its many components, it will not work correctly –
or maybe not at all. Diagnostics will let us know where a problem is coming
from. Issues with the chassis, body, or the powertrain can all be diagnosed
with our equipment, as can more common engine problems.

The check engine light is an indicator that something is wrong, but it’s
impossible to know exactly what it’s trying to warn you about. Until diagnostic
equipment existed, your mechanic would have to visibly inspect every part of
the vehicle based on the symptoms you reported to them. Now, however, we
can simply connect the car to a diagnostic testing equipment and know within
minutes where the problem is and, in most cases, how we’re going to repair it.

Engine Performance
Performance is an important reason to choose one vehicle over another.
Whether it’s power or efficiency, you probably had a set of expectations in mind
when you last went car shopping. It may not be a huge deal, but it’s still really
handy to know if your vehicle is performing at its optimal capacity. You could
be saving money and preserving your car for many more years to come if you
monitor the engine’s performance with diagnostic testing.
The best way to see how your car is performing is to let a company with high
tech diagnostic tools run a check of the entire system. Felix Auto and Tire can
give you a complete report of your vehicle’s performance so that you can find
out if your car is living up to the manufacturer’s guarantees about horsepower,
fuel consumption, and overall dependability.
Operational Sheet 1.2-6

Cylinder Balance Test

A cylinder power balance test can be conducted without an engine analyzer. All
that is needed is a tachometer to measure the engine rpm. To conduct the test,
a spark plug wire from the spark plug has to be disconnected and grounded.
The change in engine speed with the cylinder disconnected is the amount of
drop caused by that cylinder. The test is continued by disconnecting the wire to
each cylinder, one at a time, and recording the change.
PRE-DELIVERY INSPECTION CHECKLIST

NAME:

VEHICLE PLATE NO. :

PDI 2 WHEELS AND TIRES
Front right tire
INSTRUCTOR:
Pass Fail
PDI 1 BODY EXTERIOR TIRE PRESURE PSI:
Glass
Front left tire
Pass Fail
Door locks/operation Pass Fail
Pass Fail TIRE PRESURE PSI:
Fuel filler cover/petrol cap
Rear left tire
Pass Fail
General bodywork condition Pass Fail
TIRE PRESURE PSI:
Pass Fail
Corrosion Rear right tire
Pass Fail Pass Fail
RECOMMENDATION:
TIRE PRESURE PSI:

Spare tire
Pass Fail
TIRE PRESURE PSI:

RECOMMENDATION:
 PDI INTERIOR AND LUGGAGE
3 COMPARTMENT
Seat mechanism Brake lights

Pass Fail Pass Fail

Seat belts Indicator & hazard lights
Pass Fail Pass Fail
Internal mirrors Reverse & fog lights
Pass Fail Pass Fail
Boot/tailgate lock Auxiliary lights
Pass Fail Pass Fail
RECOMMENDATION: Panel lights/dashboard illumination
Pass Fail
Switches & controls
Pass Fail
Instrument/controls function
Pass Fail
Horn

PDI 4 ELECTRICAL CONTROL Pass Fail

Ignition lock/starting system Windows & sunroof operation

Pass Fail Pass Fail

Battery charging system Wipers & jet washers

Pass Fail Pass Fail

RECOMMENDATION:
Headlights
Pass Fail
Side lights/running lights
Pass Fail
Rear lights & number plate illumination
Pass Fail
 TRAILING:

PDI 5 BRAKES BRAKE PEDAL BRAKE PEDAL FREE

Master cylinder security HEIGHT: PLAY:
Pass Fail
Fluid leaks
Pass Fail RECOMMENDATION:

Servo/power system
Pass Fail
Flexible hoses
Pass Fail
Pipes/unions & connections
Pass Fail
PDI 6 ENGINE COMPARTMENT
Discs & pads
Coolant level
Pass Fail
Hand brake operation/adjustments Pass Fail
Coolant leaks
Pass Fail Pass Fail
Hand brake linkage
Antifreeze
Pass Fail Pass Fail
Pedal/linkage Radiator & cap
Pass Fail Pass Fail
Clutch fluid level Hoses & pipes
Pass Fail Pass Fail
BRAKE PAD BRAKE SHOE Drive belts
THICKNESS: THICKNESS: Pass Fail
LEADING:
Water pump
 Pass Fail
Engine oil level
Pass Fail
External engine leaks
PDI CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION
Pass Fail 7
Engine mounts Fluid/oil leaks
Pass Fail Pass Fail
Turbo/supercharger Cables/adjustment
Pass Fail Pass Fail
Fuel pump & pipes Hydraulic system
Pass Fail Pass Fail
Accelerator linkage Linkages (check for signs of wear)

Pass Fail Pass Fail

Cold starting Mountings

Pass Fail Pass Fail

Fast idle when engine cold Drive shaft assemblies

Pass Fail Pass Fail

Excess fumes/smoke Universal & sliding joints

Pass Fail Pass Fail

Noise level when engine cold Propshaft(s)

Pass Fail Pass Fail

RECOMMENDATION: Bearings & supports
Pass Fail
Clutch fluid level
Pass Fail
CLUTCH PEDAL CLUTCH PEDAL FREE
HEIGHT: PLAY:

PDI CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

RECOMMENDATION: 8
Fuel tank
Pass Fail
Fuel lines
Pass Fail
Evidence of leaks
Pass Fail
RECOMMENDATION:

PDI SUSPENSION,UNDERFRAME AND

9 STEERING
Steering joints & ball joints
Pass Fail
Steering rack
Pass Fail
Chassis members
Pass Fail
Power steering
Pass Fail
Power steering fluid level Pass Fail
Pass Fail Evidence of overheating
Wheels, hubs & bearings Pass Fail
Pass Fail Gearbox operation & noise level
Springs & suspension unit Pass Fail
Pass Fail Final drive operation & noise level
Dampers & bushes Pass Fail
Pass Fail Clutch operation
Tie bars & anti-roll bars Pass Fail
Pass Fail Cooling fan operation
Bounce Test Pass Fail
Pass Fail Instruments & controls functioning
RECOMMENDATION: Pass Fail
Footbrake operation
Pass Fail
Hand brake operation
Pass Fail
Suspension noise
Pass Fail
Warning lights
PDI 10 ROAD TEST
Pass Fail
Engine - performance
RECOMMENDATION:
Pass Fail
Engine - noise
Pass Fail
Engine - excessive fumes or smoke
L.O. 3 Complete work processes

Operational Sheet 1.3-1

Perform engine oil top-up

If dipstick tells that the oil level is low, you should top up the engine oil.

The first step in doing this is to make sure you add the right oil. The car's user
manual.
Once you have the right oil, make sure the car is parked on level ground. The
engine should be cool, and you should wait at least 20 minutes to give the oil
time to drain fully back into the sump.

1. Check the oil level again to see how much oil is required
2. Unscrew and remove the oil filler cap

Car engine oil filler cap

 3. You should then add a small amount of fresh oil, ideally using a long-neck funnel,
and then wait a minute or two for it to arrive in the sump

4. Check the level again using the dipstick, and keep adding oil in small amounts
until you are happy with the level.

Bear in mind that over-filling is as bad for your engine as under-filling; so don't treat the
high level mark as a target. It's best to aim for a little below this line.
Operational Sheet 1.3-2

Perform Automatic Transmission oil top-up

The car's automatic transmission system is one of several hydraulic systems.

To maintain the system, you must check the transmission fluid periodically to
make sure there is enough fluid of sufficient quality available for the
Transmission to perform correctly.

 Park your car on a level surface with the engine running. You may
want to shift the transmission briefly through each of its gear settings
before putting it in park.
Raise the hood. There's usually a lever on the inside of the car that pops the
hood, usually near the left hand side of the cockpit. Consult your owner's
manual if you are unable to find it.

Find the automatic transmission fluid pipe. On many newer cars, the
transmission fluid pipe will be labeled; if not, consult your owner's manual for
its location.

 On a rear-wheel drive vehicle, the dipstick is usually in the rear of the

engine, above the valve cover.
 On a vehicle with front-wheel drive, the dipstick is usually in the front of
the engine and is connected to the transaxle, sticking straight up out of
the transmission.
Pull out the transmission fluid dipstick. On most cars, the car must idling in
park with the parking brake on and the transmission hot. Wipe the dipstick on
a clean rag or paper towel, reinsert it and pull it out again to check the
transmission fluid level. The fluid level should be between two marks labeled
either "Full" and "Add" or "Hot" and "Cold."

 Usually, you should not have to add transmission fluid. If the level is
down significantly below the "Add" or "Cold" line, you probably have a
system leak and should inspect properly.
Add transmission fluid, if necessary. Add the fluid a little at a time,
rechecking the level periodically, until it is at the correct level.

Run the car and take it through each gear if possible. This process allows
the newly added transmission fluid to circulate and properly coat each gear,
lubricating it. Start with the engine running and the car in park, if possible
with the wheels off the ground. Go through First all the way to Third, including
Drive, Overdrive, and Reverse gears. When finished, place the vehicle in park
and let it idle to warm the fluid.
 Operational Sheet 1.3-3

Perform Brake fluid top-up based on Manufacturer’s standards

If the vehicle have a low brake fluid level, topping up is really simple.

1. Park the vehicle on a flat surface.

2. Clean the brake fluid reservoir cap if it’s dirty, so no debris falls into the
reservoir.
3. Remove the cap. If the fluid is very dark or contains debris, and needs to be
replace.

4. Slowly and carefully add brake fluid to the reservoir until the level reaches the
maximum fill marker.
5. Securely screw the reservoir cap back on.
6. Drive the vehicle for a short period, braking occasionally then, once parked on
a flat surface, check the fluid again to be sure of a successful fill.
 Operational Sheet 1.3-4
Perform Coolant oil top-up based on Manufacturer’s standards

Topping up coolant is simple. Before you start, park on a level surface and
wait for a few hours until the engine is fully cold – if it’s hot, pressurised
water can dangerously erupt from the reservoir cap when it’s unscrewed.

1. Find the coolant reservoir: The location should be in your car handbook, as
well as information on the correct type of antifreeze or coolant for your
vehicle.

2. Check the coolant level: The coolant reservoir has minimum and maximum
markers – the coolant level should be in between these lines. If it’s below
minimum, top it up. Above maximum, and you should immediately siphon
out the excess.

3. Mix the coolant: If you are not using pre-mixed coolant, mix the correct
antifreeze with distilled water as per the manufacturer’s instructions – 50-50
is a common measure, with 70-30 for extremely cold climates.
4. Unscrew the reservoir cap: When unscrewing, always cover the cap with a
cloth, just in case pressurised water escapes from the coolant reservoir.
5. Insert a funnel: Since coolant is toxic to humans and animals, you should
use a funnel to avoid spills when topping up the reservoir.
6. Fill with coolant: When filling, slowly top-up to the maximum marker.

7. Replace the cap: Screw the cap back on until you hear a click.
 ACTIVITIES TO PERFORM

ACTIVITY 1

1. What is Pre-delivery Inspection?

2. Why is it necessary to check the interior and exterior of a
vehicle before delivery happens?
3. What are the documents to be check in PDI?
4. In factory loading parts of a vehicle why it is important to
check the quality control of a vehicle?
5. What are the manufacturing components of a vehicle?
6. How to remove towing eyelet?
7. Where can you find the tire specification if the vehicle is brand
new?
ACTIVITY 2

1. How to check the coolant level?

2. What will be the problem inside the engine if thermostat is
stuck close?
3. Is it normal if the engine loses 50 ml of oil in every 1 month?
Why?
4. What will be the effect if you mix green and blue or pink
coolant inside the expansion tank?
5. What will be the effect inside the engine if you exceed the
engine oil to top up?
6. Is it OK if you mix the DOT 3 and DOT 5 brake fluid inside the
master cylinder reservoir of a vehicle? Why?
7. What alternative Fluid that to be use in a power steering?
8. How can you identify the fluid that is leaking below the
engine?
9. 10W-40 means
10. What are the prerequisites before checking the fluids of a
vehicle?
11. Is it safe to drive if the bake fluid level is in below
maximum? Why?
12. How to check the engine oil level?
13. Why it is important to change engine oil and oil filter
every 10,000 kilometers?
14. Why it is important to perform Preventive Maintenance
Servicing ?
15. Why it is important to check the vehicle lights?
ACTIVITY 3

1. Why it is necessary to perform engine oil top-up based on

Manufacturer’s standards?
2. Why it is necessary to perform Automatic Transmission fluid
top-up based on Manufacturer’s standards?
3. Why it is necessary to perform Brake fluid top-up top-up
based on Manufacturer’s standards?
4. Why it is necessary to perform coolant fluid top-up based on
Manufacturer’s standards?
5. Why it is necessary to perform power steering fluid top-up
based on Manufacturer’s standards?
6. Why is it important not to inflate the tire at maximum PSI?
7. What is engine Specification?
8. What is the difference between viscosity and volatility?
ACTIVITY 4

1. What is the use of Pre-delivery Inspection Checklist in daily

Service?
2. What is the Purpose of Pre-delivery inspection before
Service?
3. Why it is necessary to check the mileage of a vehicle before
the Preventive Maintenance Service?
4. What is Pre – starting and STARTING & WARM –UP
OPERATION Check Up?
5. Why it is necessary to check the proper fluid to be use in
the vehicle?
ACTIVITY 5

1. What are the Procedures on how to check the brake

fluid level?

2. What are the procedures on how to check the power

steering fluid?

3. What is the difference between DOT 3, 4 and 5?

4. How can you determine if the brake fluid will be

change?

5. How can you determine what kind of brake fluid to be

use in a vehicle?

6. What is dexron?

7. How can you determine if the power steering fluid will

be change?

8. How can you identify what kind of power steering fluid

to be use in a vehicle?

9. What are the benefits of changing the ATF?

10. What are the SAE Designation of gear oils by

viscosity
ACTIVITY 6

1. What is the purpose of PDI Checklist?

2. What are the procedures on how to check coolant level?
3. What are the Procedures on how to check engine oil level?
4. How can you determine if the radiator cap needs to be
replaced?
5. What is ethylene glycol?
6. What is the use coolant inside the engine?
7. Why it is important not to mix the concentrated coolant and
ready-to-use-coolant? What will be the effect if it mix
together?
8. How can you determine if the engine needs to be replaced?
9. What is SAE and API?
10. What are the prerequisite before checking the vehicle
fluid level?