The Black Diamonds of Provence

Narrator: In a small village in Provence, France, residents have gathered to give

thanks. While they sing and pray to Saint Anthony, these church members are
praying for something different: a good truffle harvest. At the annual truffle mass,
the collection plate is filling up, and not just with cash. In Richerenches, truffles are
sometimes called “black diamonds.” At a price of up to 1,000 U.S. dollars per pound,
they’re one of the world’s most expensive foods.

The name Richerenches means “rich earth,” appropriate for this village. Half of
France’s black truffles are transported through the town’s market, up to 180,000 U.S.
dollars worth a day. They’re all looking for truffles, and not just anyone will do,
either.

Pierre-Andre Valayer, Truffle Broker: It’s a most important market of truffles in

France. So if you want to buy some truffle, you have to be in Richerenches to buy
something. So for the sellers, it’s the same thing. If you want to sell well, they have
to come to Richerenches.

Narrator: Provence generally brings to mind summer holidays, lazy afternoons, and
ancient customs. In winter though, the small town’s pace speeds up considerably.
Many of the region’s farmers also work as truffle hunters. Most of the business is
done discretely from the backs of the brokers’ cars. One small bag of truffles is worth
hundreds of U.S. dollars, so the trade is certainly lucrative.

Philippe Oger, Truffle Eater: I do think they buy apartments and so on . . . on the
Riviera with this money. I know that.

Narrator: The buying and selling of truffles is mainly a cash business, it’s usually
under the table. This means that the brokers often don’t pay any taxes on the money
they earn and neither do the hunters.

Most people presume that truffles are only an expensive luxury for the rich; however,
regular people who cook at home often spend money on them, too. France’s
gourmet food companies also buy truffles from the brokers and export them to
restaurants in the U.S., Japan and elsewhere. The demand is high, but unfortunately,
the supply is decreasing.

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Herve Poron, Truffle Exporter: Today, if you find 100 tons, it’s a very good
production. In fact, it’s most of the time it’s more like 20, 30, or 50 tons . . .
compared to 1,000, 100 years ago.

Narrator: The best truffles are deep black, with white veins, but there are fewer and
fewer of them available these days. One major reason for the decrease could be the
recent changes in Provence’s truffle-growing environment.

Poron: Because to grow truffles you need woods, and the woods have disappeared.
And what is left is not often very well taken care of . . . so we’re desperate for woods.
That explains the lower production today.

Narrator: Truffles grow underground, around tree roots. If there aren’t as many
trees left, there are fewer places for truffles to grow. Provence is a farm region
where farmers grow lavender, and grapes for the famous wines. Now only a few
places remain that allow truffle growth.

Truffle hunter Joel Barthelemy is looking for those places with the help of his yellow
lab, Jade. Jade is a trained sniffer dog. All dogs have sensitive noses, but sniffer dogs’
are exceptional. However, there are other factors involved.

Joel Barthelemy, Truffle Hunter: The dog has to pay attention, and he has to love his
master. You can do all the training you want, but the dog has to want to please his
master.

Narrator: Jade seems to have the capacity for both of these requirements. She’s
found something and gets a treat for her effort. As the two hunters continue their
search for truffles, it seems that for today at least, there’s no truffle shortage here.
Perhaps Saint Anthony has listened to the truffle hunters’ prayers after all.

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