Cogsworth

Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
https://www.instagram.com/chiacrafts
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/chiara-cremon-designs
Cogsworth
Crochet Pattern
This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

@chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!
1
A message for you!

Hello dear fellow crocheters! My name is Chiara (pronounced “Kiara”, as I’m Italian) and I’m not
only the girl in the picture down there but, most importantly, the person behind the Instagram
account @chiacrafts!
In the very beginning, crochet was something I used to do just for my own sake: it was nothing
more than a Sunday hobby, to keep my mind busy and far away from disaster fantasies... Never
would I have imagined achieving such success! I then started sharing instructions to reproduce my
amigurumis, mainly as a way of thanking all my followers for their enthusiasm (and because of
the large amount of requests!) :)
However, writing a pattern doesn’t come without its own challenges and quite an effort: while the
design time remains unvaried, physically writing it down in digital format, remaking the pieces to
make sure they’re correct, and preparing all comments and pictures, takes about more than a third
of the time I spend on a project.
I’m an independent artist: I’m not sponsored, not affiliated to any magazine or company, and I
don’t receive any retribution for my work other than what I gain from my Ravelry shop. People
who bought this pattern thinking of redistributing it on their own, making money out of
unauthorized translations or who simply downloaded it for free, should know that there’s a real
person behind this profile they are damaging with their actions. If you’re not sure whether you’re
reading an authorized copy, have a look at what’s
written in the next section.
I feel like I’m whining a lot about people not

respecting my work and not focusing enough on
you, all the amazing people who indeed
purchased this pattern :D
Just let me thank you once again for your love

and support. You’re all a source of great
motivation for me!
Cheers,
Chiara
2
Licence
Hello, and thank you for being about to try out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and
personal effort :)
Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind!
This is a pattern for sale, available via my Ravelry shop exclusively (link in the header of this
document). If you’ve found it in any other location, you’re reading a stolen copy, and you shouldn’t
use it. Also, this doesn’t allow you to redistribute it in turn.
DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also
prohibited.
DO NOT reuse my pictures.
This pattern is intended for personal use only.
Please give me credits when posting online by always adding “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and
#chiacraftspatterns. If you don’t post online, I would very much like to receive a picture of your
work anyway :D
Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and help me carry on
this activity. Thank you for listening :)
For any doubt, you can contact me via PM on Instagram or by email. I DO NOT answer questions
via private message on Ravelry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwise. I
always answer :)
3
When working in rows instead, at the end of each

row, you must turn your work and proceed in the
Read Me! opposite direction: the first st of a row must be

worked in the last stitch of the previous row, thus
proceeding zig-zag and creating a 2D shape.
When working in rows, you should always make a
Pay attention to the details! turning chain at the end of each row of sc to help
you better turn your work. This turning chain
might not be always explicitly reported in the
Take a good look at all the pictures and don’t be
pattern, but it’s visible in the diagrams.
afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they’re so
In some cases, you’ll work with a turning chain
small it’s quite fast :)
substituting the first st of the row. It will be
It's a good practice to read the entire document
carefully explained in the pattern, and clear
before starting. Knowing what to expect will
from the diagrams.
help you pay attention!
When working in rows, after a chain, always start
from the second loop from hook, if not specified
otherwise.
Tips and Tutorials Also, both when working in rows and working in
rounds, work the stitches always through the
You find quick video tutorials on how to work in entire stitch, not in the back loops or front loops
rounds, rows and how to execute all the basic only, unless specified otherwise.
stitches in my Youtube channel. I advise you to
have a look in case you should be unsure about
how to work. Anyway, all the stitches are quite
standard, so you might as well just type the name
For left-handed people
of the stitch on google, and follow the first
If you’re left-handed, everything is mirror-like for
tutorial popping out.
You also find some useful tips related to my you!
patterns in my Instagram guides. I strongly Right-handed people should work the rounds
recommend taking a look if this is the first time clockwise, keeping the crochet hook between
you’re following one of my patterns! This them and the work. Left-handed people should
material is constantly evolving, since I keep work in rounds counterclockwise, always
improving in explaining myself and I keep keeping the work between them and the crochet
enriching it, that's why I'm not linking any post to hook.
specific parts of the document.
Right-handed should work in rows proceeding
from right to left, left-handed should work from
left to right. Therefore, you can easily follow this
Rounds and Rows pattern keeping in mind to always swap
Parts of this pattern have been worked in Rounds, instructions specularly: for example, if I say that
others in Rows. the stitch marker should be placed on the left side
When working in rounds, the first stitch of a of the doll, that makes it the right side for you,
round must be worked upon the first stitch of the and so on.
previous one, thus proceeding in spiral and
creating a 3D hollow shape. This technique is
known as continuous rounds.
Another way of working in rounds is the joined
Stitch marker usage
rounds one: in this case, you start each round I place the stitch marker on the LAST st of the
with a chain, work the first st in the stitch right
round. I.E.: in my patterns, it marks the end of the
below the chain, and you end each round with a sl
round.
in the first st. You don’t proceed in a spiral, but by
stacking concentric layers.
4
Don’t work inside out!

If you’re working correctly and you’re right
Abbreviations
handed, you should work clockwise keeping the * These are standard US standard abbreviations
crochet hook between you and the work + something I’ve made up to ease the reading.
(counterclockwise if you're left-handed). If you’re ★ R = Round (continuous or joined)
right handed and you’re working counterclockwise ★ Row = row
keeping the work between you and your crochet ★ MR = Magic Ring
hook, then you’re working inside out. You’ll have a ★ st = stitch
hard time following this pattern if you do so, I’d ★ sk = skip
suggest you correct it. You can find a video with
★ sc = single crochet
further explanations here in my youtube channel:
★ inc = sc increase (invisible sc increase, i.e.
The Dark Side of the Amigurumis .
1st sc in FL, 2nd through the entire st
when working in rounds, [2 sc] through
the entire st when working in rows)
YU vs YO stitches ★ dec = sc decrease (invisible sc decrease
when working in rounds, sc2tog when
This pattern has been worked using the YO (Yarn working in rows)
Over) single crochet stitch, or “V” stitch. ★ dc = double crochet
You find more info about Yarn Over (“v” stitch) and ★ hdc = half double crochet
Yarn Under (“x stitch”) in the dedicated post in my ★ ch = chain
IG profile. ★ sl = slip stitch
The choice of stitch type doesn’t impact the result ★ tr = treble crochet
more than a change in gauge.
★ BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the
inner loop when working in rounds)
★ FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the
outer loop when working in rounds)
★ [ ] = means that the stitches are to be
done in the same loop or stitch
★ CY-PO = cut the yarn and pull it out from
the stitch
★ IJ = Invisible Join
★ FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ)
★ stsc = standing sc
★ tch = turning chain
★ rc = rising chain
5
Materials Dimensions
★ 2.0 mm crochet hook
Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most
★ 1.0 mm crochet hook
importantly, working tight!!!), the finished
★ Tapestry needle
amigurumi will be about 8 cm tall.
★ 6 mm black safety eyes
★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other)
★ Yarn all in the same size of the following
colors. I’ve used YarnArt Jeans:
○ Mustard (84): Pendulum and other
gold parts
○ Peach (73): Face
○ Brown (40): Body
○ White (01): Eyes
★ A least 4 stitch markers
★ Transparent plastic sheet. Cutting out a
takeaway box works wonderfully.
Note on the eyes

The right safety eye size depends on the doll’s
dimensions! Don’t purchase 6 mm eyes if you’re
not sure the dimensions of your doll will be
similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a box
with many different sizes, and use the one which
better suits your doll. Approximately, safety eyes
should be 2 stitches wide.
Note on the yarn

I used YarnArt Jeans, which is a yarn made to be
worked with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in
1 size, so you can’t go wrong). As usual when
working amigurumis, I’ve used a hook 1 size
smaller than indicated to better work the body
tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from
which the stuffing would be visible or fall
through.
You should get a good result with this pattern
as long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, work
the body tight with a hook 1 size smaller than
indicated, and scale the other hooks accordingly.
Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn
much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy
result: maximum 1 size bigger!
6
The IJ counts as a stitch of the perimeter. You can

see it as one of the chains. Therefore, the
perimeter now is 44 sts long.
Base
Crochet hook: 2.0 mm
Work tight
Work with brown yarn
In the following section, the tch substitutes the
first st of the row. This gives the piece a cleaner
outline. Read carefully the first rows as an
Here’s a schematic to help you understand where
example, and look at the schematic at the end of
to make the stitches.
the paragraph. No additional chain is required.
Row1: ch 15 (14), turn
Row2: 14 sc (14), turn
Row3-6: tch, sk 1, 13 sc (14), turn
Note: last st of Row4 is worked in the tch of
Row3, which plays the role of the first st of Row3.
Row7: tch, (don’t sk 1), 14 sc (14)
DON'T turn, DON’T cut the yarn.
Here’s the schematic
Make a
Ch 1
then keep working around the piece.
Make 6 sc on the short side, ch 1, 14 sc on the
long side, ch 1, 6 sc on the other short side
(working over the starting tail to hide it, then cut
it).
CY-PO. End with an IJ in the 1st sc of Row7.
Make 2.
7
Position the two one on top of the other, making

the IJs match.
Cut a small rectangular piece of plastic sheet and
place it in between the two. Body
Work tight
Back
Leave a 1 m long starting tail.
Join the two halves working a round of surface Merge the yarn in BLO in A, the 2nd sl on the
slip stitches across both layers. Make 1 sl for each right from the stitch marker (you skip 1 sl from
st of the perimeter (chains included, see the stitch marker at your left), hold the piece as
schematic), and end with an IJ. The total number in the following picture
of sts you’ll get is 44.
It doesn’t matter where you start, but I advise you
to start from the middle of Row7.
Once done, place one stitch marker on each of the
sl stitches on the corners (made working in the
chs), to be able to easily locate them. Pay
attention to pick the right sts: the stability of the
rest of the amigurumi depends on it.
Keep in mind the sts referenced with coloured Work:
letters in the following scheme. Row1: Work BLO: 1 stsc, 11 sc (12), turn
Note: There’s 1 sl left before the stitch marker at
your right, the last BL you worked in is B
Row4: sk 1, 11 sc (11), turn
Row5: sk 1, 10 sc (10), turn
Row8: sk 1, 9 sc (9), turn
Row10: tch, sk 1, 7 sc (8), tch, turn
Row11: 8 sc (8)
CY-PO
8
Go to the sl closer to the stitch marker at your

right (C).
Insert the hook BLO, pull up a loop of the starting Front
tail.
Leave a 1 m long starting tail (tail A)
Work on the opposite side of the base. Merge the
yarn BLO in E.
Crochet 10 sc on the side of the piece.

Work:
Then ch 1.
Row1: Work BLO: 1 stsc, 11 sc (12), turn
Work 8 sc on top
Note: The last st is worked in F, there’s 1 sl left
Then ch 1.
before the stitch marker
10 sc going down the other side, ending with a IJ
Row2: tch, sk 1, 11 sc (12), turn
BLO in the last sl before the stitch marker at your
Row3-9: tch, 1 sc (1), turn
left (D).
CY-PO (tail B)
You’ve now covered all the 14 sl between the two
stitch markers!
Don’t cut the yarn tail left, you’re going to use it
later on to sew the sides together.
9
Leave a 1 m long starting tail (tail C)

Merge the yarn on the tch of Row2. The following
rows start from nb 3 as are at the same height of
Row3 on the other side.
Row3: 1 stsc, (1), turn

Row4-9: tch, 1 sc (1)
DON’T cut the yarn
Similarly to what you did before, insert your hook

BLO in G, YO tail A and pull up a loop.
Proceed working:
10 sc up the side
ch 1
Proceed now working from where you just left off: 8 sc on the top
turn, ch 1
Row10: tch, 1 sc in row9 of the left piece, ch 6, 1 10 sc down the other side (work over tail D to
sc in row9 of the right piece (work over tail B to hide it, then trim)
hide it) (8), turn 1 IJ in the BL of H. Don’t cut the yarn tail left.
Row11: tch, 8 sc (8)
CY-PO (tail D)
10
Now Insert your hook under the 1st stitch of the

Side
part on your left, YO with tail C, and pull up a We start with the left side of the amigurumi, the
loop. one at your right.
Join the yarn in BLO in I.
Leave a 1 m long starting tail.
Work a round of slip stitches clockwise.

The sl stitches are to be worked between rows
and in the corners. My advice is to focus more on Work:
distributing them well than on counting them. Row1: Work BLO: 1 st sc, 3 sc (4), turn
FO and weave in the tails. Note: last st is worked in L
Row11: tch, 4 sc (4)
CY-PO
11
Repeat the same process on the left side.

Start Row1 close to the front and move towards
the back
Insert your hook in the BL of M, YO with the
starting tail, pull up a loop.
Work 10 sc on the side, ch 1, 4 sc on top, ch 1, 10
sc on the side (working on the ending tail to hide
it, then trim), IJ in the BL of N.
Don’t cut the yarn tail.
12
Join the sides

This is how your work should look so far.
Inner compartment
Work tight
Work in rows:
Row3: tch, sk 1, 11 sc (12), turn
Row4: sk 1, 11 sc (11), turn
Row5: sk 1, 10 sc (10), turn
Row10: tch, sk 1, 7 sc (8), tch, turn
Row11: 8 sc (8)
CY-PO
Remove the stitch markers, and place one on each
ch on the top corners of the external perimeter of
sc, to be able to easily locate them.
Seam each couple of sides using the tails left from
the IJs.
Wave through corresponding sts from both sides.
The tapestry needle should pass through the
entire stitch, not BLO or FLO.
Weave through the 10 single crochets on each
side. This leaves you with 8 sc left unworked on
front and back, and 4 sc on the sides, plus the 8
corner chains.
Do the same on all sides.
13
Pendulum Top part

Work tight
Work tight
Work with mustard yarn
This part is worked in rows:
Make a MR, in the magic ring work:
Row1: ch 9 (8)
ch 1, 8 hdc, tighten up he MR, 1 sl in the 1st hdc
Row2: 8 sc (8)
then end with:
Row3-4: tch, sk 1, 7 sc (8)
ch 5, CY-PO.
Row5: tch, 8 sc (8)
DON’T cut the yarn
Make a
Then sew or glue the pendulum to the inner
Ch 1
compartment:
then keep working around the piece, as done for
the base.
Make 4 sc on the short side, ch 1, 8 sc on the long
side, ch 1, 4 sc on the other short side (working
over the initial chain to hide it, then cut it).
CY-PO. End with an IJ in the 1st sc of Row5.
The IJ counts as a stitch of the perimeter. You can
imagine it as one of the chains. Therefore, the
perimeter now is 28 sts long.
14
Sew the top part, weaving through the inner

loops of the body and the lower loops of the top
part. On the angles, the chain of the top part must
Fill and close the be worked together with the 2 corner chains of
the body.
The total number of sts left from the perimeter of
body the body should correspond to the number of sts
you got in the top part: 8 on the long sides, 4 on
Cut a piece of plastic sheet which fits inside the the short and angles formed by 3 chains. Wave
body. You could also glue it on the inside. the yarn through accordingly.
Insert this piece inside the body, and the inner

compartment right behind. Front decor
Work normally
Work with mustard and brown yarn. The yarn
must be split in half.
This part is worked in rows. Start with mustard
yarn (halved):
Row1: ch 9,
Row2: 8 sc from 2nd loop from hook (8), turn
Row3: 7 sc, ch 4 (10), turn
Row5: 7 sc, ch 2 (8), turn
Stuff the rest of the body Row6: 8 sc starting from 2nd loop from hook (8)
Pull out the yarn.
This will give the impression for the body to be

hollow when it is, in fact, full with stuffing.
15
Using the brown yarn and 1.0 mm crochet hook,

work sc all around.
Head
Work tight
Start with peach yarn.
This part is worked in joined rounds. The
following instructions report how to do it:
R1: 6 sc in MR, 1 sl in the 1st sc (6)
Note: the sl and the raising chain (rc) don’t count
as stitches of the round.
R2: rc, 6 inc, 1 sl in 1st (12)
R3: rc, 12 inc, 1 sl in 1st (24)
R4: rc, (1 sc, 1 inc) x 12, 1 sl in 1st (36)
R5: rc, 36sc, change to brown on the last sc, 1 sl
in 1st (36)
Glue or sew this piece to the front of the body.
I advise you to carry out this operation once the
head is ready, to better see at which height to
position it.
R6: rc, 36 sc, CY-PO 1 IJ in 2nd sc (36)

The IJ covers the 1st sc, substituting it. That's why
the total is still 36.
Using brown yarn, work

35 sl + 1 IJ around.
The sl st must be worked by inserting your hook
from the wrong side of the work (see next
picture).
I advise you to start from a st different from the
last IJ or the adjacent stitches.
16
Work in BLO (external loop) in the sl stitches just

made. Start from the right side of the face, moving
towards the left across the top of the head. Work
keeping the wrong side of the peach part towards
you,
Here’s how this piece looks like so far:
Work in rows (remember the tch at the end of

each row):
Row1: 1 stsc, (work over the initial tail to hide it)
25 sc (26), turn
Row2-6: 26 sc (26), turn
Stop to place the eyes and make the
embroideries.
DON’T cut the tail.
You can use the end of the clew when you need
the brown again.
Split your white yarn thread in half. If you’re using

YarnArt Jeans, you should use only 2 of the 4
threads YarnArt jeans is made up of.
Using this splitted yarn, work:
ch 2 (the first loop must be worked very loosely)
Mark 10 sts, symmetrical with respect to the IJ of

R6.
starting from 2nd loop from hook: [4 sc, ch 1, 1

dc, 1 sl]
Here’s a small diagram:
17
Place the eye inside the hole created by the 1st

ch. Position the eyes and secure them with the
Insert the eyes from the right side for the left eye, washer:
and from the wrong side for the right eye (so the
white parts will be symmetrical).
The eyes should be placed between R3 and R4 at

a distance of 4 sts.
Tip: If the washer is too large and prevents you

from placing the eyes at the correct distance, you
can make it smaller by cutting off its edges.
Using the starting tail, stitch the white part of the

eye 2 rounds above, to give it a drop-like shape
18
Secure the eyes by tieing start and end tails inside

the head, and trim.
Hair
Work tight
Start with mustard yarn.
Work in rows (remember the tch):
Row3-9: tch, sk 1, 4 sc (5)
This piece should be as large as the part you
worked behind the head
Embroider the clock hands.

Note: they don’t come out the center of the MR.
Roll it up and sew it or glue it on top of the head.
Using mustard yarn and 2.0 mm crochet hook

make the nose as:
4 sc in a MR, IJ in the 1st
Make a second piece and do the same.

Sew it to the face
Prepare two identical brown pieces in brown

color, and make them 12 rounds long instead of 9.
19
Sew them or glue them on top:
Back of the head

Work a second piece identical to the face, this
Last, work using a 2.0 mm crochet hook and time all with brown yarn. Stop at the IJ after R6,
mustard yarn: do not work the round of sl.
ch 5,
8 sc all around the chain
Glue it on top of the head:
20
We’re now going to join the back of the head.

Keep working from where you left off before
Place the head placing the eyes.

Work 10 sl in the back part, wrong side facing you
(the wrong side will end up being on the inside)
Place the head on top of the body. The lateral side
of the head should correspond with the shoulders.
Glue it to the front side. The glue should be put
on the inner side, EXCLUSIVELY where shown in
the next picture:
You’ve now worked sl on the lower portion of the

back of the head, and you reached the left side of
the head. Start working sl in both lateral and
back part of the head (working through the entire
st in both layers): work 26 sl, until you’ll reach the
starting point:
21
Arms
Work tight
Work with mustard yarn.
Work in rows (remember the tch):
Row2: start from 2nd loop from hook: 3 sc, 17
hdc (20), turn
Row4: Work BLO: 20 sc (20), turn
Stuff the head firmly, paying attention not to
Row5: 17 hdc, 3 sc (20), turn
deform it and not to tilt the eyes. It’s not a trivial
operation, it might take a while.
Don’t make any tch, turn and work directly in the

1st sc available
Row6: 20 sl working through both Row5 and
Row1
Then, sew the head on the sides and on the back
CY-PO
22
Roll them up as in the following picture, and sew

them or glue them to the body (gluing is easier).
Feet
Work tight
Work with mustard and brown yarn.
Work in rows with tch substituting the first stitch
of the row, as seen in the previous paragraphs.
Row3-5: tch, sk 1, 3 sc (4)
Then, ch 1 and keep working around the piece as
made for the base:
4 sc, ch 1, 4 sc, ch 1, 4 sc, IJ in the first sc.
make 4 brown pieces, 2 mustard.
Stack a mustard piece between 2 brown ones.

Using one of the brown tails left, wave through
corresponding sts of all 3 layers.
Sew or glue these pieces to the base
23
Congratulations!
Your Cogsworth is ready!
Don’t forget to send me a picture or tag me if you
post on Instagram (more info in the license page!)
Will you crochet other characters from the Beauty
and the Beast series?
24

Cogsworth

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Paid crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

A message for you!

I feel like I’m whining a lot about people not

Just let me thank you once again for your love

DO NOT reuse my pictures.

This pattern is intended for personal use only.

When working in rows instead, at the end of each

Read Me! opposite direction: the first st of a row must be

Don’t work inside out!

Note on the eyes

Note on the yarn

The IJ counts as a stitch of the perimeter. You can

Position the two one on top of the other, making

Go to the sl closer to the stitch marker at your

Crochet 10 sc on the side of the piece.

Leave a 1 m long starting tail (tail C)

Row3: 1 stsc, (1), turn

Similarly to what you did before, insert your hook

Now Insert your hook under the 1st stitch of the

Work a round of slip stitches clockwise.

Repeat the same process on the left side.

Join the sides

Do the same on all sides.

Pendulum Top part

Sew the top part, weaving through the inner

Insert this piece inside the body, and the inner

This will give the impression for the body to be

Using the brown yarn and 1.0 mm crochet hook,

R6: rc, 36 sc, CY-PO 1 IJ in 2nd sc (36)

Using brown yarn, work

Work in BLO (external loop) in the sl stitches just

Here’s how this piece looks like so far:

Work in rows (remember the tch at the end of

Split your white yarn thread in half. If you’re using

Mark 10 sts, symmetrical with respect to the IJ of

starting from 2nd loop from hook: [4 sc, ch 1, 1

Place the eye inside the hole created by the 1st

The eyes should be placed between R3 and R4 at

Tip: If the washer is too large and prevents you

Using the starting tail, stitch the white part of the

Secure the eyes by tieing start and end tails inside

Embroider the clock hands.

Roll it up and sew it or glue it on top of the head.

Using mustard yarn and 2.0 mm crochet hook

Make a second piece and do the same.

Prepare two identical brown pieces in brown

Sew them or glue them on top:

Back of the head

Glue it on top of the head:

We’re now going to join the back of the head.

Place the head placing the eyes.

You’ve now worked sl on the lower portion of the

Don’t make any tch, turn and work directly in the

Then, sew the head on the sides and on the back

Roll them up as in the following picture, and sew

Stack a mustard piece between 2 brown ones.

Sew or glue these pieces to the base

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