███████╗██████╗░███████╗███████╗██████╗░░█████╗░███╗░░░███╗

██╔════╝██╔══██╗██╔════╝██╔════╝██╔══██╗██╔══██╗████╗░████║
█████╗░░██████╔╝█████╗░░█████╗░░██║░░██║██║░░██║██╔████╔██║
██╔══╝░░██╔══██╗██╔══╝░░██╔══╝░░██║░░██║██║░░██║██║╚██╔╝██║
██║░░░░░██║░░██║███████╗███████╗██████╔╝╚█████╔╝██║░╚═╝░██║
╚═╝░░░░░╚═╝░░╚═╝╚══════╝╚══════╝╚═════╝░░╚════╝░╚═╝░░░░░╚═╝

███████╗███╗░░██╗░█████╗░██╗░░░██╗░█████╗░██╗░░░░░░█████╗░██████╗░███████╗██████╗░█
█╗░█████╗░
██╔════╝████╗░██║██╔══██╗╚██╗░██╔╝██╔══██╗██║░░░░░██╔══██╗██╔══██╗██╔════╝██╔══██╗█
█║██╔══██╗
█████╗░░██╔██╗██║██║░░╚═╝░╚████╔╝░██║░░╚═╝██║░░░░░██║░░██║██████╔╝█████╗░░██║░░██║█
█║███████║
██╔══╝░░██║╚████║██║░░██╗░░╚██╔╝░░██║░░██╗██║░░░░░██║░░██║██╔═══╝░██╔══╝░░██║░░██║█
█║██╔══██║
███████╗██║░╚███║╚█████╔╝░░░██║░░░╚█████╔╝███████╗╚█████╔╝██║░░░░░███████╗██████╔╝█
█║██║░░██║
╚══════╝╚═╝░░╚══╝░╚════╝░░░░╚═╝░░░░╚════╝░╚══════╝░╚════╝░╚═╝░░░░░╚══════╝╚═════╝░╚
═╝╚═╝░░╚═╝

By: 🅳🅴🆂🆃🆁🅾 🆃🅷🅴 🅳🅴🆂🆃🆁🅾🆈🅴🆁

Welcome Brothers and Sisters!!!!!

This Book, is for all you misfits, social nobodies, Anarchist's, Terrorist (Future
and Present) and for anyone who wants to fight for freedom and doesn't care who
against *cough**cough* the government
Now this books is written by me, some friends who i trust, and with inspiration
with information i got my hands on (really good information) and also there will be
some orginal How-to's made by your's truly!
I am English and live in the UK so my spelling may be different and slang too , i
cannot help that it is how i talk, get over it!
but this book is not restricted to any other countries, this book will be better
for the Americans so like 99.99% of those reading , as most chemicals, weapons and
equipment is much more attainable there than in mainland Europe!

People who CANNOT read this:

Femboy Haters
Industrialist's
Technology lovers

Who CAN read this

Terrorist's
Anarchist's
Based Nature Chads!
Jon
Nature Lovers
Animal Lovers
Government hater's
Ted kaczynski chads
Femboys
Table of Contents

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

1.0 - Weaponary
1.1 - Slam-Fire Shotgun
1.2 - Knife (NO FORGE NEEDED!!!!) NOT FINISHED
1.3 - Destro's Mini Mortar
1.4 - Exploding Arrows
1.5 - Exploding lightbulbs
1.6 - Caltrops
1.7 - Destro's Clusterbomb
1.8 - Pipebomb's
1.9 - Destro's WarHead
1.10 - Destro's CO2 Hand Removers
1.11 - Destro's Car Bomb
1.12 - Nail Bomb's

2.0 - Explosives

Disclaimer! I will only warn you once and that is HERE SO READ THOROUGHLY, Handle
all explosives carefully,and with caution
Some methods in here are dangerous, and some explosives can be ignited just by
touch!
So proceed with caution!!

1.0 - Blackpowder
1.1 - Potassium Nitrate
1.2 - Plastic Explosives from Bleach
1.3 - NitroGlycerine
1.4 - Nitric acid
1.5 - Mercury Fulminate
1.6 - Jon's Lithium Extraction (to come soon)
1.7 - Destro's RDX
1.8 - Thermite
1.9 - Acetone Peroxide
1.10 - HMTD
1.11 - Picric Acid from Asprin
1.12 - Red Phosphorous
1.13 - Plastic Explosive filler
1.14 - Methyl Nitrate Dynamite
1.15 - Destro's C1 Plastic Explosive

3.0 - Ignition Devices

1.1 - Clothespin Switch

1.2 - Fast burning fuse
1.3 - Slow burning fuse
1.4 - Timer Igniter
1.5 - Cigarette Delay
1.6 - Rifle Detonator
1.7 - Pressure switch
 1.8 - Mini-Compound Detonator's

4.0 - Tactic's

1.1 - Evading Bomb Squad tactics

1.2 - How to secretly meet an acomplice without being tailed or watched by feds

++++++++++++++
+1.0 - Weaponary +
++++++++++++++

----------------------------------------------
1.1 Slam-fire Shotgun
----------------------------------------------

Materials needed:
An 18” length of 3/4″ diameter black iron gas line pipe
An 8” length of 1” diameter black iron gas line pipe
A 1” black iron gas line pipe cap
Nail or Screw (Personal Prefrecnce, like screw's, but i'll use whatever is at hand)

Tools:
Drill
3/8" Drill bit
dremel with grinding and sanding attachments (You could use sandpaper but you will
be there for a while, plus a dremel is a worthy investment and cheap)
Welder or Super glue (any strong adhesive) a welder would be ideal but this can be
done with a strong adhesive

How-to

Cut the threads off of ONE end of the 1” pipe.(You don’t have to, but I did)

Grind the weld seam inside the 3/4″ pipe for about 4” so the shell will fit inside
the pipe, that’s the breech end. If you don’t grind that weld then
the shell won’t fit. If you don’t grind it thoroughly it will be difficult

to dislodge the fired shell. Be sure to grind it so that the shell fits snugly to
prevent it from falling out if you point the gun upwards as in
shooting birds on the fly.

Cut a notch (or two) at the same end so that you can get a grip on the spent casing
and pull it out.

Drill a 3/8″ hole in the center of the 1” Pipe Cap

Then place screw or nail in the top of the cap so the point will be inside the pipe
once attached
if you have a welder go a head and weld the nail or screw to the top of the cap and
weld inside too right where the nail or screw comes through

if you DONT have welder simply add your adhesive where you would've welded

----------------------------------------------
1.2 Knife (NO FORGE NEEDED!!!!) NOT FINISHED
----------------------------------------------
Material's needed:

Carbon Knife steel/ 5160 steel or just any old steel could be a old circular saw
blade, large hacksaw blade etc etc (get creative)
Oak strips from the hardware store(home depot,lowes) and get the strips of oak,
$4.00 for a 1/4"x2"x3'

----------------------------------------------
1.3 Destro's Mini Mortar (Beta)
----------------------------------------------

This little device is the most fun i've had in a while, it says beta in the title
as aspects of this whole device and projectile are still in the design process
the mortar can be built, but no projectile has been made as of yet as i want to
experiment with 3D printed projectiles, i am also working on another a real
hilbilly type
mortar XD

Materials needed:

2 tomato paste tins (the really small ones)

Box of 12 ga. shotshells or if you are a fellow European like me, blank rounds are
fine too (its what i use)
Blackpowder (scroll down and you will find how to make this)
Cannon fuse (or also see my fast burning or slow burning fuses too!)
Tin snips
Steel BB's or 00 Buckshot
cardboard
peice of cork (act's as a lid for one of the tins )
thick walled drain pipe with a plug (make sure the paste tins can fit in easily )
roofing nail
masking tape
drill or hole making device
superglue or hotglue
tape

How-to

take one tin and cut it to 1" tall with a 11/16" hole in the bottom centre if you
are using
Shotgun Shells (if you are using blank then your size of hole will differ)

Use the other tin to widen the mouth of the cut tin (Make sure it slide smoothly!)

Drill a small hole in the bottom of the uncut tin (Big enough for the fuse)

Carefull take apart one shotgun shell so you are just left with the brass and
primer and place into the 11/16" hole
(measure the blank round, then create hole according to it and place inside)
Fill 3/4 of the cut tin with blackpowder

cut a length of duse about 3" long and use masking tape to cover all but the first
1/4"

insert the uncovered end of the fuse in the small hole made in the uncut tin

take the cardboard and form into a tube that fits inside the uncut tin,now place
your Buckshot or steel bb's
and place them in between the cardboard and inside of the can, leaving a large
empty space in the middle of the cardboard tube

now fill that empty space with blackpowder

now get you some cork, or some more cardboard if you do not have cork

now take the cork or cardboard and cut it so it acts as a plug for the second tin
with the blackpowder and buckshot it
and glue it in place

now place the second tin with the corkside down into the 1st tin that was cut down

and tape together with either electrical tape or duct tape (only make one pass of
tape okay!)

now take the drain pipe plug and insert and glue down the nail in the exact centre
of the pipe cap

place the cap on the pipe

How to use:

Once you are ready to drop the canister, light the fuse, drop the round down the
pipe so the nail hit's the blank or primer
igniting the BP sending it flying while the fuse burns away, once it reaches it
destination, fuse ignites the BP and sends the buckshot
out every angle

Enjoy!

--------------------------------------------------------------
1.4 Exploding Arrows
--------------------------------------------------------------

Materials needed:

Arrows with removeable tips (Aluminium are best)

Blackpowder
a shotgun primer or any primer that will fit the arrow
steel or plastic BB (i like metal ones)
glue (Super, Hot, epoxy)
needle nose pliers
funnel
and of course a bow

How-to:
use your pliers to remove the arrow head

place funnel in hole and fill to just about the top of blackpowder

get your primer and grasp with pliers

place a small amount of glue on the primer and insert into the hole

now place a small blob of glue on the top of the primer

place the BB while glue is hot and leave to dry

How to use:

shoot arrow as normal, and watch the fireworks :)

--------------------------------------------------------------
1.5 Exploding Lightbulbs
--------------------------------------------------------------

in this segment i will go over exploding lightbulb and napalm light bulb :)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Materials needed:

-lightbulb (100w)
-socket (duh...)
-1/4 cup soap chips
-blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
-1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline
-adhesive tape
-lighter or small blowtorch
-glue

Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

- Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!

- Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so

that it touches the filament!

- Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or

else YOU will be the victim!!)

- Get the hell out!!

Procedure for a Napam Bulb:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

- Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler

- Melt soap chips, stirring slowly.

- Put somewhere and allow to cool

 - Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue.
Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the
cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!

- Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament
back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the
fluid.

- Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently

used by the victim and get the hell out!!

When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise!

--------------------------------------------------------------
1.6 Caltrops
--------------------------------------------------------------

Caltrops! one of the first things i ever made as a devious youth these bad boy are
small, compact and can be carried by the 100s in a backpack
and thrown into the road at night leaving a present for any tyre using victim (they
are super nasty to stand on too!)

materials needed:

Scrap sheet metal

angle grinder with cut of blade or metal saw
JB weld
Pair of plier
and a pencil or marker

Use you drawing tool to draw to identical equilateral triangles on the scrap sheet
metal

cut triangles out with the angle grinder

find the centre on the base line and create a slot on the triangles with the angle
grinder make them around 1.5cm long and do this for both
triangles, use the pliers to hold the triangle while doing so

next slot the two triangles together

apply JB weld to every spot where the two triangles touch

Well done! you have now made a caltrop!

How to use:

the great thing with caltrops is no matter how you through it there will always be
a spike sitting up!
so throw these on roads, dirt paths, footpaths, or as you are drivivng throw them
behind you!

----------------------------------------------
1.7 Destro's Clusterbomb
----------------------------------------------
Materials:

Potassium Chlorate (at least 90% pure)

Vaseline
4 lengths of threaded cast iron pipe, 1 foot long, 2 inches diameter with a wall
thickness of 1/8"
Two pipe caps for each pipe (8 in total )
Rifle detonator, found on 3.0/1.6
6 VDC Lantern Batteries (2 of them)
8 sections of 20ft of speaker wire

Procedure
-----------

1)Powder the chlorate to a consistency of flour.

2)Mix it with Vaseline in a formula of 2-9 (2 parts vaseline to 9 parts chlorate)
until it becomes a paste.
3)Take the pipes and thread on one cap on each pipe (so you should have 4 pipe caps
left now).
4)Pack that pipe with the mixture to 3/4th the way up.
5) attach the 8 sections of speaker wire to the rifle detonators
5) place rifle detonator in to the mixture and use the rest of the mixture to fill
up the reamaining part of the pipe.
6)drill hole in the last 4 caps, thread the wires through the cap

To fire:

connect 4 of the wire to postive and 4 to negative

Enjoy :)

------------------------
1.8 - Pipe Bomb
------------------------

Materials:

Any size of water pipe available

Matching end caps (2 of them)
canon fuse - 6 inch section
Any explosive (Flash powder, TATP, HMTD, Blackpowder, RDX)

Equipment:

Drill
1/6th drill bit
epoxy or hot glue
common sense
Procedure
-------------

1) put a cap on one end of the pipe

2) fill 3/4 of pipe with explosive

3) insert fuse, and fill the rest of the pipe up with explosive

4) drill a 1/6th hole in the middle of the other cap

5) thread fuse through hole in cap and cap tightly

6) apply expoxy or hotglue around the hole

to use:

Light, Throw, Run like fuck

-----------------------------
1.9 - Destro's WarHead
------------------------------

Note: I will not say exactly how to make the fuel, but will give chemical names and
amounts, due to me still testing it

Materials:

Any solid rocket fuel motor (homemade or store bought)

HE (High Explosive - any mentioned in this book)
1 section of 2 ft fuse, 1 section of 1.5ft fuse
Length of 2" diameter PVC
Large soup can
1 Model rocket cone that fit's on top of soup can (pasti)
Thick cardboard (enough material for 4 fins)

Equipment:

Spoon
Super glue
Drill
funnel
tape (Duct, Electrical)

Procedure
------------------
1) place fuel motor in pvc pipe - if too small wrap it around some paper or
cardboard and super glue in place into the tube - attach fuse

2) take soup can - hole pointed up - 1"inch from the top create a hole just big
enough for the fuse to fit

3) use funnel to fill can 1/2" from the 1" hole - thread 1.5ft section of fuse
through hole and deep into HE - securing in place with superglue

4) fill the rest of the can up with paper or shrapnel - secure nose con with
superglue - and make 3 passes of tape for added adhesion

5) cut out 4 same sized fins from cardboard with cutting tool - glue in a "+" sign
formation at the bottom of the pvc pipe

6) attach pipe to bottom of can with superglue and also some tape if needed

7) aim Warhead where needed, light Motor fuse then HE fuse

-----------------------------------------------
1.10 - Destro's CO2 Hand Removers
-----------------------------------------------

Materials:

Empty CO2 canister

Blackpowder, Flash Powder, PETN (any explosive really)
Canon fuse
Epoxy or Hotglue
Steel BB's of nails
Tape of any variety

Equipment:
nail and hammer or drill

Procedure
-----------------

1) Take drill or hammer and nail and puncture a bigger hole in the top of canister
2) fill with explosive, i like blackpowder
3) insert canon fuse and put some hot glue or expoxy around the bottom of the fuse
making it airtight

If using BB's:

lay out BB's on paper plate

coat the outside of the canister
roll the canister in the bb's and once tried wrap one layer of tape around

If using Nails:

1) lay out a row of nails

2) place piece of tape over nails
3) Use more tape to secure belt of nails to canister
To use:

Light fuse,throw, and run like fuck

--------------------------------
1.11 - Destro's Car Bomb
--------------------------------

Equipment:

Methyl Nitrate Dynamite - 1.14 - 2.0 Explosives

Car
3ft section of fuse

Procedure
----------------

1) Add 3ft section of fuse to blasting cap fuse - so it can give you time to run
2) Take the gas cap off the targeted car
3) Add dynamite into tank but do not submerge past top cap
4) Light and run like fuck

---------------------------
1.12 - Nail Bomb's
---------------------------

Equipment:

Firecracker or m80 (Homemade or Store bought)

Nails
tape

Procedure
---------------

1) Take some tape and secure nails around firecracker

2) Light fuse and throw

+++++++++++++
+2.0 - Explosives+
+++++++++++++
------------------------
1.0 - Blackpowder
------------------------

Materials:

Potassium nitrate, granulated 3 cups

Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
Sulfur, powdered, .5 cup
Alcohol, 5 pints (2.5 l) whiskey, rubbing, etc.
water 3 cups, (.75 l)

Equipment:
heat source
2 buckets- each 2 gallon (7.5 l) cap., one of
which must be heat resistant (metal, ceramic)
Flat window screen 1 foot square
large wooden stick
cloth, 2 ft. sq

Procedure
-----------------

1) Place alcohol in one of the buckets.

2) Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket.
Add 1 cups water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients
are dissolved.

3) Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and
stir until small bubbles begin to form.

Note: Do NOT boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on
sides of pan, it may ignite.

4) Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring
vigorously.

5) Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to
obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and
squeeze to remove all excess liquid.

6) Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on
screen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen.

Note: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change shape,

recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 and 6.

7)Spread granulated powder on flat dry surface so that layer about .5" (1.25
cm) is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This
should be dried as soon as possible, preferably in one hour. The longer
the drying period, the less effective the black powder.
----------------------------
1.1 - Potassium nitrate
----------------------------

Materials:

Nitrate bearing earth or other materialabout 3.5- gallons (13.5 litre)

Fine wood ashes, about .5 cup (1/8 litre)
Water- 1.75 gallons
alcohol - 1 gallon (4 l) can be whiskey, rubbing, etc

Equipment:

Bucket, about 5 gallons (19 l) in volume

2 pieces finely woven cloth, each slightly bigger than the bottom of the bucket
shallow pan or dish, at least as large asthe bottom of bucket
Shallow heat resistant container (ceramic, metal, etc.)
Awl, knife, or screwdriver, or other hole punching tool
heat source
paper
tape

Procedure
----------------
1) Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over holes
inside bucket.

2) Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the thickness of
the cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes.

3) Place dirt in bucket.

4) Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be supported on sticks if

necessary.

5) Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at a time. Allow
water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container. Be sure water
goes through all the earth. Allow drained liquid to cool and settle for 1
to 2 hours.

Note: Do not pour all the water at once, as this may cause stoppage.
6) Carefully drain off liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any
sludge remaining in bottom of the shallow container.

7) Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will
begin to appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they form, using any
type of improvised strainer (paper, etc)

8) When liquid has boilded down to approx. half its original volume, remove
from fire and let sit. After half an hour, add an equal volume of alcohol.
When mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals will collect on
top of it.

9) To purify the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in the

 smallest possible amount of boiled water. Remove any salt crystals that
appear (step 7); pour through an improvised filter made of several pieces
of paper and evaporate of gently heat the concentrated solution to dryness.

10) Spread crystals on plat surface and allow to dry. The crystals are now
ready to use.

-----------------------------------------------------
1.2 - Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach
------------------------------------------------------

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,

and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.

First off, you must obtain:

1) A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)

2) A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
3) A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
4) Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)

Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin

heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.

Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it

is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again
and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.

Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.

Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to

drive off all moisture.

Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.

Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid

friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.

-------------------------
1.3 - NitroGlycerine
-------------------------

Chemicals:

39ml of Concentrated sulfuric acid

13ml of Concentrated nitric acid
Glycerine
Sodium bicarbonate
Table salt
Distilled water

Equipment:
Eye-dropper
100ml beaker
2 - 100ml beakers
Ice bath container
Centigrade thermometer
Blue litmus paper

Procedure
--------------

1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.

2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about a
spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some
remains undissolved.

3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
temperature.

4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker
will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow
into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a
large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of
the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less.

5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add
the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two
acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a
 good idea to start another ice bath to do this.

6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one
drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the
mixed acids and glycerine meet.

DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF

THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!!

The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will
immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of
glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any
explosive in small quantities.

7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration,
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in
the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.

8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid-
water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.

9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it

into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.

10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean

container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far
away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine can
explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place.

-----------------------
1.4 - Nitric acid
-----------------------

Materials:
Potassium nitrate (2 parts by volume)
Concentrated sulfuric acid (1 part by vol)

Equipment:
2 bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks preferable)
pot or frying pan
Heat source
Tape (paper, electrical, not cellophane)
Paper or rags

Procedure
--------------

1) Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not
fill more than 1/4 full Mix until a paste is formed.

Note: Treat sulfuric acid like any other acid, wash affected skin with water,
and dont inhale the fucking fumes.

2) Wrap paper or rags around necks of 2 bottles. Securly tape necks of

bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against each other and that
there are no air spaces.

3) Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is slightly lower

than bottle sontaining paste so that nitric acid is formed in receiving
bottle will not run into other bottle.

4) Build fire in pot or frying pan.

5) Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As

red fumes begin to appear periodically pour cold water over empty receiving
bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form in the receiving bottle.

Note: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As

an added protection, place bottle to be hated in a heat resistant container
filled with sand or gravel. Hear this outer container to produce nitric acid.

6) Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the
nitric acid formed in the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it
into cleaned bottle and repeat steps 2-6.

-------------------------------
1.5 - Mercury Fulminate
-------------------------------

Chemicals:

5g of Mercury
35ml of concentrated nitric acid
30ml of ethyl alcohol
Distilled water

Equipment:

Glass stirring rod

2 - 100ml beaker's
Adjustable heat source (Hotplate)
Blue litmus paper
Funnel and filter paper

Procedure
----------------

1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,

using the glass rod.

2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the
solution turns green and boils.

3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or
brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.

4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that
the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
distilled water to the solution.

5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and
toxic.

6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the
wet crystals

7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from
any explosive or flammable material.

-----------------------
1.7 Destro's RDX
-----------------------

Chemicals

Hexamine
Strong Nitric Acid
Acetone

Equipment

Scale with gram accuracy

Measuring cups or graduated cylinder (cc or ml)
Thermometer 20-100 degrees celcius
Several large quart canning jars
Two large basins or bowls made of metal or some other heatable metal
Paper Towels

Procedure
-----------------

1) Place one half cup or 120 ml or cc of nitric acid in a large canning jar

and bring the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees celcius (68-86 F)

by putting the jar in a basin of cold water.

2) Keep the thermometer in the jar so you can closely maintain the temperature
 between your basins of hot and cold water.

3) Weigh out 70 grams by weight or 18 teaspoons by volume of hexamine. Then

start adding the hexamin slowly at 1/2 teaspoon at a time over a 15 minute

time period. All the while maintaining the temperature between 20 and 30

degrees celcius by moving it in and out of the cold water basins.

4) When all the hexamin is dissolved in the acid heat the solution to 55

degrees celcius (131 F) by placing the jar in a basin of hot water. Then

maintain this temperature for about ten minutes.

5) Now remove the jar from the basin of hot water and place it in the basin

of cold water and cool the jar to 20 degrees celcius (68 F). Now when the

solution reaches 20 degrees celcius add 3 cups (750ml) of cold water and

white salt will appear.

6) Now the white salt is RDX and should be handled with care. Now filter the

Acid/Water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the mouth of another

jar.

7) Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and add an additional 3 cups of

fresh cold water and a teaspoon of sodium carbonate to neutralize the acid.

Now stir rapidly for 3 minutes and then filter it out again.

8) It is now usable, but I prefer purifying it by filling a quart canning jar

2/3 full of acetone and heating the acetone then adding the RDX crystals to

it a half teaspoon at a time until it completely dissolves in the acetone.

9) Now that it is all dissolved let the solution cool to room temperature and

let it stand for one hour. The RDX will then precipitate again into it's
 salt. Then you must filter it through a paper towel around another jar and

rinse it with cold water the same way you did before. Now you have the

finished product roguhly 1 and 1/2 ounces of RDX.

10) Now store your finished product (after it dries) in a jar with a air tight

lid for future use. Seeing that RDX does not lose it's effectiveness for

months.

---------------------
1.8 - Thermite
---------------------

Chemicals:

Powdered aluminum
Powdered iron oxide
Magnesium strip or sparkler

Equipment:

A4 piece of paper
lighter
container

Procedure
---------------

Use a 1:3 ratio by mass so,

if you want 4 grams it will be 1g Al and 3g Iron oxide

8g = 2g + 6g
12g = 3g + 9g

1)add both powders to a piece of paper and swirl them together until fully mixed
2)add thermite to container - place in magnesium strip or sparkler - light and walk
away

note: dont look at it directly when lit, VERY BRIGHT

-----------------------------
1.9 Acetone Peroxiede
-----------------------------

Chemicals

Hydrogen Peroxide
Acetone
Sulfuric Acid

Equipment

Syringe
Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml)
Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C)
Glass Containers
Large Pan
Ice and Salt
Water
Paper Towels

--------------
Procedure
--------------

1) Mix 30 ml of Acetone and 50ml of Hydrogen Peroxide into a glass container

and mix thoroughly.

2) Cool it by plaicing it in a larger container containing ice, salt, and

water. Now cool it to 5 degrees Celcius.

3) Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the mixture slowly (drop by drop

w/ the eye dropper). Stir the mixture w/the thermometer keeping the the

temperature between 5-10 degrees celcius. If the temperature rises don't

shit just stop adding the sulfuric acid until it cools down then start

adding it again.

4) Now that you got all the acid into the mixture continue stirring for

another 5 minutes.

5) Now let the mixture stand for 12 to 24 hours in the ice/salt bath.

6) After 12 hours the crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the

once clear solution. Precipitation should be done after 24 hours.

7) Now filter out the crystals through a paper towel attached to a jar with a
 rubber band. Then after that wash the crystals by pouring ice cold water

over them, letting the water rinse the crystals and filter down through the

paper towel into the jar.

8) Select a container and allow them to dry.

-------------------
1.10 - HMTD
-------------------

Chemicals:

Hexamine
Hydrogen Peroxide
Citric acid

Equipment:

Containers - bottle or glasses

Paper towels
Teaspoon
Pan
Water
Tape

Procedure
-------------
1) Measure 9 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide into a container

2) In 3 portions, dissolve 2.5 teaspoons of crushed hexamethylenetetramine

(hexa) in the peroxide.

3) Keep the solution cool for 30 minutes by placing container in a pan of

cold water.

4) In 5 portions, dissolve 4.5 teaspoons of crushed citric acid in the hexa-

peroxide solution.

5) letsolution to stand at room temperatire until solid particles for at

the bottom of the container.

Note: Complete precipitation will take place in 8-24 hours

6) Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container to collect the
solid particles.

7) Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with 6 teaspoons
 of water by pouring the water over them. Discard the liquid in the
container.

8) Place these explosives in a container and allow to dry.

Note: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it
roughly. Keep from open sparks or flames. Store in a cool, dry place.

----------------------------------------------
1.11 Picric Acid from aspirin
----------------------------------------------

Picric Acid can be used as a booster explosive in detonators, a high

explosive charge, or as an intermediate to preparing lead picrate.

Materials:

Aspirin tablets (5 grains per tablet)

Alcohol, 95% pure
Sulfuric acid, concentrated, (if battery acid, boil until white fumes
disappear)
Potassium Nitrate (see elsewhere in this Cookbook)
Water
Paper towels
Canning jar, 1 pint
Rod (glass or wood)
Glass containers
Ceramic or glass dish
Cup
Teaspoon
Tablespoon
Pan
Heat source
Tape

Procedure:
---------

1) Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water

and work into a paste.
2) Add approximately 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 millilitres) to the
aspirin paste; stir while pouring.
3) Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another
glass container. Discard the solid left in the paper towel.
4) Pour the filtered solution into a glass or ceramic dish.
5) Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the dish
into a pan of hot water. White powder will remain in the dish after
evaporation.

NOTE: The water in the pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling,
approx. 160 to 180 degress farenheit. It should not burn the hands.

6) Pour 1/3 cup (80 millilitres) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a

canning jar. Add the white powder to the sulfuric acid.
7) Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water bath
for 15 minutes; then remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a
yellow-orange color.
8) Add 3 level teaspoons (15 grams) of potassium nitrate in three portions
to the yellow-orange solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution
will turn red, then back to a yellow-orange color.
9) Allow the solution to cool to ambient room temperature while stirring
occasionally.
10) Slowly pour the solution, while stirring, into 1-1/4 cup (300

millilitres) of cold water and allow to cool.

11) Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light
yellow particles will collect on the paper towel.
12) Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25 millilitres) of
water. Discard the waste liquid in the container.
13) Place articles in ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as in step
5, for 2 hours.

---------------------------------
1.12 - Red Phosphorous
----------------------------------

Materials:

Boxes of matches (lots of them)

Equipment:
Pliers
Mortar and pestle
funnel
container

Procedure
---------------

1) Empty matches out of boxes

2) Use pliers to crush of red part of matches
3) Once all matches are crushed - use the mortar and pestle to refine the powder
more
4) Use a funnel to pour the powder into a airtight container

---------------------------------
1.13 Plastic explosive filler
---------------------------------

Chemicals:

Potassium chlorate
Petroleum jelly

Equipment:

Round stick
Wide bowl

Procedure
--------------

1) Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface. Roll the

round stick over crystals to crush into a very fine powder or wheat flower.

2) Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly

in a wide bowl or similar container. Mix ingredients with hands
until a uniform paste is obtained.

---------------------------
1.14 - Methyl Nitrate Dynamite
---------------------------

Chemicals:

Sulfuric acid
Nitric acid
Methyl alcohol

Equipment:

Eyedropper
2qt Jar
1qt Jar
Fine sawdust
Cup
Pan - 3 to 5 gallons
Teaspoon
Wooden stick
Steel pipe with end cap
Blasting cap
Water
Tray

Procedure
-----------------

1) Add 24 teaspoons of sulfuric acid to 16.5 teaspoons of nitric acid in the

2 qt. jar.

2) Place the jar in the pan (3-5 gallon) filled with cold water or in a stream
and allow to cool.
3) Rapidly swirl the jar to create a whirlpool in the liquid (without
splashing) while keeping the bottom portion of the jar in the water.

4) While continually swirling, add to mixture, .5 teaspoon at a time, 13.5

teaspoons of methyl alcohol, allowing the mixture to cool at least one
minute between additions.

DANGER! PELIGRO!- If there is a sudden increase in the amount of fumes produced

of if the solution turns much darker or begins to froth, dump the solution in
the water within 10 seconds! This will help lengthen your life, and prevent an
accident.

5) After the final addition of methyl alcohol, swirl for another 35-40
seconds.

6) Carefully pour the solution into one of the narrow glass jars. Allow jar
to stand in water for approx. 5 minutes until two layers separate.

7) With an eyedropper or styringe, remove top layer and CAREFULLY put into
another narrow glass jar. This liquid is the explosve.

Note: Thought I should tell you, this is shock sensitive. (very)

8) Add an equal quantity of water to the explosive and swirl. Allow mixture
to separate again as in step 6. The explosive is now the bottom layer.

9) Carefully remove the top layer with the eyedropper or styringe and
discard.

10) Place one firmly packed cup of absorbent in the tray.

11) While stirring with the wooden stick, slowly add explosive until the mass
is very damp but not wet enough to drip. Explosive is ready to use.

Note: If it gets too wet, add more absorbent. If storage is required, store in
a sealed container to prevent evaporation. Do not allow this to touch the
skin. If it does, flush with large quantities of water. Keep grit, dirt, and
sand out of the mix.
How to Use
----------
1) Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap
threaded on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin
can or a glass jar.

2) Insert blasting cap just beneath the surfacr of the explosive mix.
Note: Confining the other end will add to the effectivenessof the explosive.

--------------------------------------------
1.15 - Destro's C1 Plastic Explosive
--------------------------------------------

My C-1 recipe is 130% more powerful than T.N.T

It is 10% more Powerful than C4
and it expands with the reate of 8789 meters per second when compressed into a cube
shape

So listen up cunt's, this shit is powerful so if you don't understand what i am

saying then dont FUCKING MAKE IT, okay?

Right to the recipe!

Side note: you will need a explosion to ignite this mercury fulminate works
perfectly in my testing's

Chemicals:

50g of Hexamine (camping fuel tablets, can buy literally anywhere)

550ml of Concentrated Nitric Acid (check out 1.4 in Explosives for how to make
that)
Distilled water
Table salt
Ice
Ammonium Nitrate (optional)

Equipment:

500ml beaker
Glass stirring rod
Funnel and filter paper (or a regular coffee filter will work)
Ice bath container (pyrex dish or similar is good)
Centigrade thermometer
Blue litmus paper

Procedure
----------------

1) place beaker in the icebath and carefully add the 550ml of nitric acid into the
beaker

2) let the acid cool to below 20 degrees centigrade, carefully being to add small
amounts of the crushed up hexamine,
that you previously ground to a fine powder, the temp WILL rise and must be kept
below 30 degrees centigrade, if not you will loose
your head dumbass!, now stir

3) drop the temp to below zero, either adding salt to old ice bath, or by creating
a new one, or adding the ammonium nitrate, continue
stirring for atleast 25 minutes, while keeping temp below zero

4) pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice, shake, stir and allow to melt.
Once melted, filter out the crystals and dispose
of the corrosive liquid

5) place the crystals into 1/2 a litre of boiling water, filter out the crystals
and test them for acidity with the litmus paper, repeat step
5 until litmus paper does not change colour anymore

6) to make the plasticizer, mix by weight:

88.8% of RDX (the crystals dumbfuck)
11.4% mineral oil
0.6% lecithin

+++++++++++++++++
 + 3.0 Igntion Devices! +
+++++++++++++++++

-----------------------------
1.1 - Clothespin switch
-----------------------------

Material Required:

Spring type clothespin

Sold copper wire -- 1/16 in. (2 mm) in diameter
Strong string on wire
Flat piece of wood (roughly 1/8 x 1" x 2")
Knife

Procedure:
---------

1) Strip four in. (10 cm) of insulation from the ends of 2 solid copper
wires. Scrape the copper wires with pocket knife until the metal is
shiny.
2) Wind one scraped wire tightly on jaw of the clothespin, and the other
wire on the other jaw.
3) Make a hole in one end of the flat piece of wood using a knife, heated
nail or drill.
4) Tie strong string or wire through the hole.
5) Place flat piece of wood between the jaws of the clothespin switch.

-----------------------------
1.2 - Fast burning fuse
-----------------------------

(40 inches per minute)

Materials needed:

-Soft cotton string

-fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
-shallow dish or pan

Procedure:

- moisten powder to form a paste

- twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together

 - rub paste into string and allow to dry

- Check the burn rate!!!

-----------------------------
1.3 - Slow burning fuse
-----------------------------

(approx. 2 inches per minute)

Materials needed:

- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces

- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
- Granulated sugar

Procedure:

- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then

rinse with fresh water

- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:

1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water

- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution

- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry

- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!

---------------------------
1.4 - Dried Seed Timer
---------------------------

Material Required:

Dried peas, beans, or oter dehydrated seeds

Wide-mouth glass jar with non-metal cap
Two screws or bolts
Thin metal plate
Hand drill
Screwdriver

Procedure:
---------
1) Determine the rate of the rise of the dried seeds selected. This is
necessary to determine the delay time of the timer.
a) Place a sample of the dried seeds in the jar and cover with
 water.
b) Measure the time it takes for the seeds to rise a given height.
Most dried seeds increase 50% in one to two hours.
2) Cut a disc from thin metal plate. Disc should fit loosely inside the
jar.

NOTE: If metal is painted, rusty, or otherwise coated, it must be scraped

or sanded to obtain a clean metal surface

3) Drill two holes in the cap of the jar about 2 inches apart. Diameter
of holes should be such that screws or bolts will thread tightly into
them. If the jar has a metal cap or no cap, a piece of wood or plastic
(NOT METAL) can be used as a cover.
4) Turn the two screws or bolts through the holes in the cap. Bolts
should extend about one in. (2 1/2 cm) into the jar.

IMPORTANT: Both bolts must extend the same distance below the container
cover.

5) Pour dried seeds into the container. The level will depend upon the
previously measured rise time and the desired delay.
6) Place the metal disc in the jar on top of the seeds.

How to use:
----------

1) Add just enough water to completely cover the seeds and place the cap
on the jar.
2) Attach connecting wires from the firing circuit to the two screws on
the cap.

Expansion of the seeds will raise the metal disc until it contacts the
screws and closes the circuit.

-------------------------
1.5 - Cigarette Delay
-------------------------

Materials Required:

Cigarette
Paper match
String (shoelace or similar cord)
Fuse cord (improvised or commercial)

Procedure:
---------

1) Cut end of fuse cord at a slant to expose inner core

2) Light cigarette in normal fashion. Place a paper match so that the had
is over exposed exposed end of fuse cord and tie both to the side of the
burning cigarette with string.
3) Position the burning cigarette with fuse so that it burns freely. A
suggested method is to hang the delay on a twig.
Note: Common dry cigarettes burn about 1 inch every 7 or 8 minutes in
still air. (Now I am talking about all except American brands, which burn
about 1 inch every 4-5 minutes) If the fuse cord is place one inch from
the burning end of the cigarette a time delay of 7 or 8 minutes will
result.
Delay time will vary depending upon type of cigarette, wind,
moisture, and other atmospherc conditions (get to know your cigarette!)
To obtain accurate delay time, a test run should be made under
"use" conditions.

----------------------------
1.6 - Rifle Detonator
----------------------------

Materials:

Spent rifle casing (bottled necked)

Booster explosive (Mercury fulminate, Silver fulminate or flashpowder)
Primary explosive (RDX, Comp A, or ANFO)
Fuse

Euipment:

Hammer
Awl

Procedure
---------------

1) Put tape over primer well - add in booster charge 1/4 the way up and damp down
lightly with dowel
2) Add in 1/8 of your primary explosive - fill up to neck with booster and damp
down lightly again
3) add in fuse and crimp neck over

To use
---------------

Embed the detonator at least 2" intp your HE, light the fuse and run like fuck

--------------------------------
1.7 Pressure Plate Switch
-------------------------------
Material Required:

Two flexible metal sheets

one approximately 10 in. (25 cm) square
one approximately 10 in. x 8 in. (20 cm)
Piece of wood 10 in. square x 1 in. thick
Four soft wood blocks 1 in. x 1 in. x 1/4 in.
Eight flat head nails, 1 in. long
Connecting wires
Adhesive tape

Procedure:
---------

1) Nail 10 in. by 8 in. metal sheet to 10 in. square piece of wood so that
1 in. of wood shows on each side of the metal. Leave one of the nails
sticking up about 1/4 in.
2) Strip insulation from the end of one connecting wire. Wrap this end
around the nail and drive the nail all the way in.
3) Place the four wood blocks on the corners of the wood base.
4) Place the 10 in. square flexible metal sheet so that it rests on the
blocks in line with the wood base.
5) Drive four nails through the metal sheet and the blocks (1 per block)
to fasten the sheet to the wood base. A second connecting wire is atached
to one of the nails as in step #2.
6) Wrap the adhesive tape around the edges of the plate and wood base.
This will assure that no dirt or other foreign matter will get between the
plates and prevent the switch from operating.

How to use:
----------

The switch is placed in a hole in the path of expected traffic and covered
with a thin layer of dirt or other camouflaging material. The mine or
other explosive device connected to the switch can be buried with the
switch or emplaced elsewhere as desired.

When a vehicle passes over the switch, the two metal plates make contact
closing the firing circuit.

--------------------------------------------
1.8 - Mini-Compound Detonator's
--------------------------------------------

Made by a friend and a true anarchist -- Jack The Ripper

-=-=-=-=-=-

-MATERIALS-

-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source

---- ------

Empty .22 Magnum shells or copper/brass/aluminum Gun stores or Hardware

tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long. These Stores

tubes must also be closed at one end.

A substantial quantity of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX RDX Article 3 this

(amount depends on how many detonaters you intend to issue of "Anarchy

make) or PETN can be substituted here. Today" PETN is the

center filling of

detonating cords.

A substantial quantity of primary explosive i.e. Acetone Peroxide

Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide. Article 1 this issue

of "Anarchy Today"

An ignition charge of black powder. Gun stores FFF black

powder.

A loading press (commonly used for reloading shells Gun stores

also please be safe considering a few of these

detonaters may detonate when being compressed, so

take the neccessary precautions such as safty glasses

etc...)

-=-=-=-=-=-

-PROCEDURE-

-=-=-=-=-=-
*NOTE* dirt or oil may sensitize the detonators to an unsafe level so when

handling the primary and secondary and ingnition charges use tongs. Also boil a

bucket of water in the room as humidity helps or if your in a house turn your

shower on hot and leave it on!

1) Now light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each shell

casing before use. Then let the wax cool down.

2) Now fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then

*GENTLY and SLOWLY* insert the ram and compress the explosive slowly

and evenly. Now remove the ram slowly and carefully.

3) Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN until a

column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed into

the 1 inch shell casing.

4) Now add a small amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the

secondary explosive on top of the secondary explosive. Now add the

Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column of

secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until it reaches a

height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high.

5) Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder. Now seal

the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use.
 +++++++++++++++++
+ 4.0 Tactics +
+++++++++++++++++

------------------------------------------
1.1 - Evading Bomb Squad tactics
------------------------------------------

Written up by a great friend and truly a wizard -- The Wizard of 713

This article will deal with the modern methods used by police and

military bomb squad teams and how to overcome them. Most police forces have a

bomb squad or IED(Improvised Explosive Device)unit, but some rely on the army

EOD (Explosive Ordnance Disposal) unit. This is done, because small local

police forces rarely have a need for a bomb squad or the funding to outrig

one with the necessary equipment. Well enough of the background on with the

article, in which I will outlay equipment and how to evade it.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Police Protection-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

As of the writing of this article the most widely used form of

protection is the Canadian Safeco body suits. These suits are made of kevlar

and ballistic material and basically protect the pig from shrapnel and shock

wave. However there are many design flaws in the suit, which I will outline.

(1) The officers hands must be exposed, because gloves would be too bulky to

maneuver, and hinder his sense of touch.

(2) The other design flaw is the suit weighs a little over 50 pounds, and

there is the constant problem of heat stroke etc...; Since the suit is
 very hot.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Overcoming This Problem-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

The solution here is quite simple, and the best option is to leave

the best option is to either...

(A) Put the bomb out in the direct sunlight if you live in a hot climate.

(A hot climate is temperatures in the 98-108 range.)

(B) Place the explosive device in a boiler room.

(C) Place it under a primary heating duct.

(D) Use your imagination your intelligent.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Disarming Robots!-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

The police force recently has been employing robots in disarming

procedures. The most popular one is the Pedsco RMI a canadian robot that runs

on six pneumatic tires; It also has a camera and a claw all of which are

controlled remotely. These robots however are pretty much strictly limited to

large police forces, because of their cost. The design flaws in this are

obvious...
(1) It is like the game where you get the prize with the claw. Or in

other words it is difficult to operate, and is mainly used for moving

the explosive device into a bomb transporter.

(2) It only has one camera and one has to become extremely accustomed to

the new depth perception via the camera.

(3) They are almost never used in disarming procedures since they are too

jerky. They are used to move the explosive to a bomb transporter.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Overcoming This Problem-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

There are many different solutions, which can be applied here. I will

outline a few of the more interesting ones that won't readily come to mind.

(A) This is my personnel favorite employ multiple explosives, and

surround your bomb with minurature landmines, which will destroy the

disarming robot.

(B) Another is to employ a secondary detonator into your device which

is shock or sudden movement sensitive, so that if the operator of the

claws drops the explosive or jolts it, it will detonate.

(C) Another is to attach multiple detonators to the sides of the explosive

so that when the claws close in on the device it will detonate.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Portable X-rays-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Police have more often used portable x-ray units. These units are

called inspectors, and manufactured by golden. They run on their own

batteries and use polaroid x-ray film. These are most effective usually

since a relatively accurate x-ray can be procured in less than 20 seconds.

The obvious design flaws in the are as follows:

(1) Certain materials are not susceptible to x-ray such as lead.

(2) It takes a well trained person to interpret an x-ray correctly.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Overcoming This Problem-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

The ways of overcoming this are obvious, but I will outlay them here

for those of you whose minds are slow.

(A) Encasing the explosive device in lead or some other material which

will successfully evade the x-ray.

(B) Adding shit or miscellaneous metals inside the bomb to confuse the

person interpreting the x-ray.

-=-==-=-=-

-Dearmers-

-=-==-=-=-

What the fuck is a dearmer you ask? Well a dearmer is usually employed

by the bomb squad when it is apparent that device can be made docile by

destroying it's wiring.A dearmer is an electronically fired gun that shoots a

variety of projectiles at a high velocity into the explosive. The purpose of

this is to destroy the wiring rendering the explosive useless. They look like

miniature pipes, and can be fired remotely.There are a few design flaws here,

but less than before that can be manipulated to our advantage.

(1) They can't cut through steel.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Overcoming This Problem-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

(A) The solution here is to encase the wiring in some way to prevent

cutting.

(B) Another method for those of you who dare is to coat the wiring of the

device with a compound that will detonate from shock, and

will in turn detonate the explosive.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Bomb Transport Vehicles-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
 Yes, those oddly shaped vehicles that they carry away our explosives in.

Well this took quite a bit of research to find out all of the types, but here

it goes. The first type is the spherical transporter, round in shape it is

used when even a directed blast could cause injury, death, or destruction

i.e. in such areas as where there are tall buildings and a large populous.

The other type is either of one cylinder or multiple concentric cylinders

with spaces between them. The general purpose of these is to direct the blast

upward, so as not to cause injury or destruction. The explosive is

suspended in a net in the center of the cylinder. Most of the times these

are used to take the device to a safe area for detonation, but are designed

just in case the bomb goes KABOOM. Here there really aren't design flaws, but

there are ways to overcome his problem.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-Overcoming This Problem-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

(A) First make your bombs (Unless the occasion calls for something

different) so that they direct the full force of the explosion in one

direction. A strong explosive device cannot be contained if it's

entire force is sent into one direction.

(B) Take advantage of the open cylinder transport vehicle, and direct the

force of the explosion downward assuring a hole in the street, and

two maimed or mortally wounded cops.

 Well this is about all for this article, and remember this is for

informational purposes only. I am not responsible for the end actions of the

user just as Noble was not responsible for the death of every man, women, and

child during WWI, WWII, Korean War, Vietnam, etc... and any other

confrontation using T.N.T. or Trinitrotoluene.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------
1.2 - How to secretly meet an acomplice without being tailed or watched by feds
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------

A security service like the FBI can only achieve its objectives by intercepting
communication between people. This means you can beat the security service if
you can deny them the ability to overhear your meetings with your contacts.

What you'll learn here...

This article teaches you how to check for surveillance before you meet with a
clandestine contact. You'll learn a protocol that will beat security services
like the FBI, BATF, DEA, and others. The method is particularly effective
against standard police surveillance. It also works against the so-called
inspection teams of the IRS.

Tradecraft origins. The method described in this article was originally devised
in 1943-1944 by countersurveillance expert Anthony Blunt for Britain's MI.5.
Unfortunately for the British, Blunt was a deep-cover agent for the KGB.

Six years later, Blunt taught the protocol to his new KGB controller, Yuri
Modin. Together they perfected the technique as it is known today. They
successfully thwarted MI.5 surveillance for three years, sometimes even meeting
daily to exchange information and top secret documents. In effect, Blunt was
using his inside knowledge of MI.5's surveillance techniques to beat them at
their own game.

Proliferation. This countersurveillance method has since been adopted by

Israel's Mossad, Germany's BND, Russia's KGB (now the SVR), the American CIA,
and many others. The protocol is taught by intelligence agencies to their
controllers - these are the intelligence officers who manage and meet with deep
cover agents in foreign countries. The method is also being used today by
resistance movements and urban guerrilla groups.

When this countersurveillance protocol is methodically applied, it is extremely

difficult for a security service to breach your security.
Step-by-step instructions...

Here's a hypothetical situation. Assume that you and I wish to meet

clandestinely. We wish to ensure that our meeting is not observed by a
surveillance team.

You and I have previously agreed upon a place, date, and time. In addition, we
are familiar with each other's appearance - we can recognize each other on
sight.

Step 1

You and I independently arrive at the previously agreed-upon general location.

Rather than fixing a specific location, we agree to be only in the general
vicinity. This is an important principle.

This might be a large park, a residential district, etc. The location must be
outdoors and free of video surveillance cameras. It should also be selected with
the intention of thwarting telephoto lenses.

You and I should each know the area well. The location should provide reasonable
cover for each of us being there - strolling in the park, walking through a
residential area to a bus stop, convenience store, etc.

Step 2

You and I will eventually make eye contact at some distance from each other. We
do this discretely, so others are unaware. I use a pre-arranged signal to alert
you that I have spotted you. Perhaps I'll throw my jacket over my shoulder, or
remove and clean my sunglasses, etc. The signal must be a natural movement that
does not attract unwanted attention.

Safety first.Even though you and I have seen each other, we do NOT approach each
other. This is an important safety valve. If either of us has grown a tail we do
not want to compromise the other person.

BACKGROUND - The phrase grown a tail is spy-talk for being under surveillance.
The phrase is somewhat inaccurate, because they don't just follow you, they
often surround you.

Step 3

When you see my signal you simply walk off. Then I follow you in order to ensure
that you're not being watched. I carefully check for the presence of a
floating-box foot surveillance team. I check for agents at fixed observation
posts. I also watch for drive-by support from a floating-box vehicle
surveillance team.

BACKGROUND - In particular, I may follow you, I may walk parallel to you, I may
occasionally walk ahead of you. The goal is simply to be nearby so I'm in a
position to detect surveillance around you. I always remain at a distance from
you, of course, never approaching too closely.

Step 4

When I have satisfied myself that you are clean, I again signal you. Perhaps I
re-tie my shoe laces.
Step 5

Now we reverse roles and this time it is I who simply walks off. You begin to
follow me in order to ensure that I'm not being watched. You check for
floating-box foot surveillance, fixed observation post foot surveillance, and
drive-by support by a vehicle surveillance team.

What to look for.You carefully watch for persons who are pacing me or moving
parallel with me. You check for persons loitering at positions with a good
line-of-sight to my location. You watch for an ongoing pattern of people coming
and going that results in someone always being in a position to monitor me. You
watch for vehicles dropping someone off ahead of me.

Step 6

When you are satisfied that I am clean, you signal me that I'm not being
watched. (On the other hand, if you suspect that a surveillance team is in the
vicinity, you simply abort the operation and walk away.)

BACKGROUND - You must trust your instincts, because if something seems not quite
right it's better to be safe than sorry. Many people are surprised to learn that
it is not difficult to detect a surveillance team watching someone else. This is
the subtle elegance of Blunt's countersurveillance system. And the goons are
helpless against it.

Step 7

You and I can now approach each other and meet. After our discussion we agree
upon the date, time, and location of our next clandestine meeting - as well as
two backup plans in case the meeting is thwarted by surveillance. If we are
unable to meet at the first venue we will use our fallback position and we will
meet at the same time and place one week later. If we are unable to make that
meeting happen, we will shift to a previously agreed-upon failsafe plan and we
will meet at a different location at an agreed-upon date and time.

Neither you nor I writes down the particulars of our next meeting. We commit the
details to memory.

BACKGROUND 1 - If you have any documents to give me, I will not accept those
documents until the final moments of our meeting. I will have already started
making my getaway when I accept the documents. This reduces the chance of
discovery and arrest by a surveillance team that has managed to elude our
countersurveillance protocol. If the security service acts too quickly, they
will have no evidence against me, because the documents have not yet been passed
to me.

BACKGROUND 2 - The best agents never mix discussion and documents. If a document
is to be passed, no discussion occurs. The entire contact takes only a moment -
the perfect brushpass. The principle is simple. It is foolhardy to stand around
holding incriminating documents.

Spook talk...

Spies in North America call this seven-step protocol for countersurveillance

drycleaning. In Europe, it is called parcours de sécurité - a French phrase
which can be translated as security run or security circuit.