The Journal of The Textile Institute

ISSN: 0040-5000 (Print) 1754-2340 (Online) Journal homepage: http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/tjti20

Analysis of mechanical and dimensional

properties of the denim fabrics produced with
double-core and core-spun weft yarns with
different weft densities

Tuba Bedez Ute

To cite this article: Tuba Bedez Ute (2018): Analysis of mechanical and dimensional properties of
the denim fabrics produced with double-core and core-spun weft yarns with different weft densities,
The Journal of The Textile Institute, DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2018.1470451

To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2018.1470451

Published online: 03 May 2018.

Submit your article to this journal

View related articles

View Crossmark data

Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at

http://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=tjti20
The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2018
https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2018.1470451

Analysis of mechanical and dimensional properties of the denim fabrics produced

with double-core and core-spun weft yarns with different weft densities
Tuba Bedez Ute
Textile Engineering Department, Ege University, Izmir, Turkey

ABSTRACT ARTICLE HISTORY

Elastic structures are preferred for improving the elasticity and recovery properties of denim fabrics. With Received 8 August 2017
the intention of improving comfort during body movements in denim jeans, 10–35% elasticity is required. Accepted 24 April 2018
In this study, the effect of the composition of double-core (dual-core) and core-spun weft yarns and weft
KEYWORDS
density on the mechanical properties of denim fabrics was investigated. For this purpose, different core Double-core yarns; dual-core
materials were used in the production of elastic yarns. The sheath material was cotton for all yarn types. yarns; duo-core yarns; core
Yarn samples were spun with the same yarn count and twist coefficient. 100% cotton Ne 8/1 Ring slub warp yarns; elastic yarns; denim
yarns were used as warp yarn while double-core and core-spun yarns were used as weft yarns in weaving.
The weaving process was performed with three different weft density values (16, 22, and 28 weft /cm)
and the other production parameters were kept constant. Twill 3/1 woven fabrics were treated according
to standard denim finishing procedures. After domestic washing processes, mechanical properties of the
samples were tested and statistically evaluated.

Introduction In recent years, alternative to elastane, using bi-component

Fabric properties are affected by its constituents such as the fiber
and yarn characteristics. From interviews conducted with denim
manufactures who have taken into consideration the requests of
the customer and properties of the products, it has been deter-
mined that, for improving body movement comfort in denim
jeans, 10–35% elasticity is needed. Özdil (2008), indicated that
elastic structures are preferred for improving the elasticity and
also recovery of the fabrics. Elastic core-spun yarns (soft-core
yarns), having an elastane core, mostly covered with cotton, are
primarily used for this purpose. However, using soft-core warp
yarns can be problematic during weaving processes. Therefore,
desired fabric elasticity is generally provided by elastic-core-spun
weft yarns. As mentioned before, core-spun yarns consist of at
least two different components; a staple sheath and a filament
core (Invista, 2006). While, double-core (dual-core) yarns made
of three components; an elastic polyurethane filament (such as
Lycra®, Creora®, or Inviya® I-300) and a multifilament (such as
Lycra® T400®) are used in the core, covered by a staple sheath.
Actually, the elasticity of some filaments such as T400® and PBT
is not enough if they’re used on their own, but if elastane is
included in the production of double-core yarns, the elasticity
values improves considerably. Moreover, the development in the
permanent elongation values makes double-core yarns preferable
for high quality denim fabrics. This new generation yarns are
also advantageous in regard to the spinning and winding process
(Tekstil & Teknik, 2017).
polyester fibers and poly butylene terephthalate (PBT) has
inspired interest. Apart from their high costs, they have some
advantages such as a higher strength due to better chemical
resistance, better recovery, dimensional stability, and elasticity
properties (Cataloğlu, 2007).
Many researchers have been focused on core-spun and
elastic yarn properties however very limited number of stud-
ies was found on the fabrics produced with double-core yarns
(Babaarslan, 2001; Su, Maa & Yang, 2004; Su & Yang, 2004;
Ertekin & Kirtay, 2015). Sarıoğlu and Babaarslan (2017), inves-
tigated the fatigue behavior of rigid core-spun yarn structure
containing PET textured filament yarn (PET DTY) with respect
to different filament fineness and yarn count. Celik and Kaynak
(2017), examined the effects of elastane draw ratio on air per-
meability of denim woven fabrics. Ertaş, Unal, and Celik (2016),
analyzed the effect of the density changes in the use of the dou-
ble-core threads used in denim fabrics. Telli, Daşan, Babaarslan,
and Karaduman (2017) focused on the usage of core and dou-
ble-core yarns containing tungsten for electromagnetic shielding.
Vuruşkan, Ilhan and Babaarslan (2011) investigated the effect
of different core-spun production parameters such as yarn count,
twist coefficient and elastane ratio on the strength and elongation
values of soft-core yarns. They’ve reported that tensile strength
decreases while breaking elongation increases with the increase
of core filament thickness. However, both tensile strength and
breaking elongation increase with the increase of elastane draft
ratio. Sarıoğlu, Babaarslan, and Ertek Avcı (2018), analyzed the

CONTACT Tuba Bedez Ute tuba.bedez@ege.edu.tr

© 2018 The Textile Institute
2  T. BEDEZ UTE
PBT EME
Figure 1. Core materials used for yarn production.
effect of the false twist textured polyester filament yarns with
different filament fineness, used as core component of compos-
ite yarn on residual torque. Their results showed that there is
a statistically significant difference between filament fineness
and yarn residual torque of composite yarns and false-twist tex-
tured microfilament polyester yarns was found advantageous on
obtaining lower yarn residual torque.
The effects of yarn properties and on the fabric properties
were also investigated by many researchers. Babaarslan, Balcı
and Güler (2007), examined the changes in properties (abrasion,
strength, extension, and elongation) of classical fabric structure
by adding yarns containing elastane into the fabric. Their results
showed that adding elastan into weft yarns of the fabrics devel-
oped breaking strength and elongation significantly but decreases
abrasion resistance which is statistically insignificant. Babaarslan,
Telli, and Karaduman (2015), produced denim fabrics by using
multifilament polyester yarns with different filament numbers
and the tensile strength (warp/weft), tear strength (warp/weft),
stretch properties, air permeability, stiffness, water vapor absorp-
tion, and hydrostatic pressure tests of fabrics were performed and
evaluated. It is found that fabric stiffness increase and air per-
meability decrease with using yarns having more microstructure
through higher filament number. They’ve reported that, yarns
have higher filament number may be problematic with regards
to elasticity, growth and elastic recovery. Akankwasa, Juni Yuze
and Mushtag (2014), focused on the properties of cotton/T400®
and 100%cotton plain knitted fabric made from ring spun yarn.
Their results showed that, fabrics knitted from cotton/T400®
yarns exhibited better breaking elongation, bursting strength and
air permeability but worse pilling resistance and tensile strength,
compared to 100%cotton fabrics.
Weaving parameters, particularly weft density and weave
pattern’s effects on fabric properties were investigated in many
papers. Şekerden and Çelik (2010), focused on the effect of
the weft density, weft count, and weave type on physical and
mechanical properties of woven fabrics. Weft density affected
shrinkage, fabric weight and breaking strength, in weft direction,
significantly. Kaynak and Topalbekiroğlu (2007, 2008) focused
on the effect of the type of weave on the dimensional stability and
abrasion resistance of woven fabrics with regards to weight loss
ratio. They reported that type of weave has an important effect
on abrasion and pilling resistance and dimensional stability of
the fabrics. Doustar, Najar, and Maroufi (2010), investigated the
effect of weave design and fabric weft density on the bagging ten-
dency of woven fabrics using FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple
Testing) system. Their results showed that shear rigidity and
formability increase with the weft density while bagging parame-
ters (bagging fatigue, resistance, hysteresis, and residual bagging
hysteresis) decreases, significantly. FAST, the integrated set of
PES/EL IMG EL
instruments and objective test methods, measures the mechan-
ical and dimensional properties of fabric to predict performance
in garment manufacture and the appearance of the garments
during wearing (De Boos & Tester, 1994). A summary of the
properties measured by FAST include: Compression (Including
fabric thickness, fabric surface thickness, and released surface
thickness), Bending (including bending length and bending
rigidity), Tensile properties (including extensibility, formabil-
ity), shear rigidity; Dimensional stability (including relaxation
shrinkage and hygral expansion) (Minazio, 1995). Gürkan Ünal
and Taşkın (2007a,b) investigated the effect of weave pattern and
fabric density on tensile strength and warp/weft contraction rates
of 100%PES fabrics. They concluded that fabric’s tensile strength
in weft direction increases with the increase of weft densities.
Weft and warp contraction rates were higher for looser fabrics
woven with lower weft densities.
This paper is aimed at the investigation of the influence of the
weft density and weft yarn type on mechanical and dimensional
properties of denim fabrics. Mentioned variables affect fabric
properties through changing the quantity of the weft yarn in the
fabric, which is effective on elasticity.
Experimental
In this study, the effect of double-core and core-spun weft yarns’
composition and weft density on the mechanical properties of the
denim fabrics was investigated. For this purpose, elastane (EL),
poly butylene terefthalate (PBT), and elastomultiester (EME)
were used in the production of elastic yarns which are used as
weft yarn in fabric production. Core material structures are given
in Figure 1.
100% cotton rovings of Ne 2 were used as sheath material for
all yarn types. Yarn samples were spun in the same yarn count
and twist coefficient (Ne 18, αe 4.2) on Pinter Merlin ring spin-
ning frame, modified with special equipment. Filament draft
ratio and other spinning parameters such as spindle speed were
kept constant. Core-spun yarns (C4, C5, and C6) were produced
by using one filament in the core whereas double-core yarns
were spun by feeding two filaments that are previously combined
(DC1) or simultaneously combined at the delivery roller of the
drafting zone, just before spinning triangle (DC2, DC3). PES/EL
IMG (intermingled) core material was obtained by combining
elastane and inelastic polyester filament, using air-jet texturing
process. Yarn specifications of double-core and core-spun yarns
are given in Table 1.
100% cotton Ne 8/1 Ring slub warp yarns were processed in
conventional denim process; which includes rope dyeing, rope
opening, sizing etc. Double-core and core-spun yarns were used
as weft yarns in weaving. The weaving process was performed
 THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE  3

Table 1. Specifications of the double-core and core spun weft. Table 4. Fabric tests, instruments and test standards.

Double-core/Sin- Abbr. Tests Standards Test ınstruments

Type gle-core Core material Sheath material FW(d/w) Fabric weight (dry/ ASTM D 3776 VIBRA
DC1 Double core 55/36dtex PES/78 dtex Cotton wash)
EL IMG CF Color fastness AATCC8 SDL M 238 B Electron-
DC2 Double core 55F24 dtex PBT/78 Cotton ic Crockmeter
dtex EL STF Stiffness ASTM D4032 SDL SCALES 003B
DC3 Double core 55/34 dtex EME/78 Cotton Shirley Stiffness
dtex EL Tester
C4 Single core 55F24 dtex PBT Cotton EN-ES Elongation/Elasticity/ ASTM D3107 SDL X 672 Stretch
C5 Single core 55/34 dtex EME Cotton Growth Machine
C6 Single core 78 dtex EL Cotton TenS Tensile strength (weft- ASTM 5034 SDL UT 35 Universal
warp) Testing Machine
TeaS Tearing strength ASTM D1424 SDL M 008 Elmendorf
(weft-warp) Tearing Tester
Table 2. Denim fabric production parameters. AR Abrasion resistance TSE ISO 12,947 M235 Martindale
(weft-warp) Wear And Abrasion
Production parameter Specifications Tester
Ring spinning frame Pinter Merlin Ring SHR Shrinkage AATCC 135 Domestic Washing
Warp yarn Ne 8/1 Ring slub, αe:4.5, 100% cotton Machine
Weft yarn Ne 18 Ring double-core/ core, αe:4.2,
Elastane draft ratio:3.5
Core material: Given in Table 1.
Sheath material:100% cotton of variance) was performed. F values were obtained from anal-
Weaving machine Dornier Airweaving Jet Loom ysis of variance and their statistically significance was evaluated
Weave type Twill 3/1 Z (p > 0.05).
Weft density 16-22-28 weft/cm
Reed type 65 × 4, Fabric width: 170 cm
Fabric finishing process Washing-causticizing-drying (60C° 5′ 10 Bè NaOH)
Finishing (18 g/l PE emulsion+15 g/l nonionic Results & discussion
softener+12 g/l starch)
Sanforizing (110C° ~10 s) Dimensional properties
Fabric weight was measured before and after washing.
Dimensional properties of the samples are given in Table 5.
with three different weft density values (16, 22, and 28 weft/cm) In general, with the increase in the weft density, the usable
and the other production parameters were kept constant. Twill fabric width, and fabric weight before washing increased. The
3/1 woven fabrics were treated according to standard denim fin- effect of the weft density on the fabric weight before washing
ishing procedures. Denim fabric production process parameters was found to be statistically significant whereas its effect was
are given in Table 2. insignificant for the fabric weight after washing.
Yarn and fabric samples were conditioned under standard Fabric weight difference after washing and fabric shrinkage
atmospheric conditions (65 ± 2% RH, 21 ± 1C°) according to (in both warp and weft direction) decreased with the increase in
ASTM D 1776 and measured according to related test stand- weft density, because of the denser structure. As the fabric density
ards. Yarns were tested and evaluated for important physical increased, the movement of the yarns was limited.
and mechanical properties such as evenness, imperfections, Regarding the effect of weft yarn composition on the shrink-
tenacity, breaking elongation, hairiness, and yarn liveness. Yarn age values, it is clear that fabric containing EL filament, par-
uniformity, the IPI values and yarn hairiness were measured on ticularly woven with C6 (elastane-cored core-spun weft yarn)
Uster Tester 5, tensile properties were measured with Textechno had higher shrinkage values both in warp and weft direction.
Statimat ME + and yarn liveness was measured with Kringel On the other hand, fabrics produced with C4 (PBT cored core-
Factor Meter test apparatus. Test results are given in Table 3. spun weft yarns) and C5 (EME cored core-spun weft yarns) had
For denim fabric samples, all tests were performed after 3 the lowest shrinkage values in weft direction due to less-elastic
consecutive domestic washing processes. Yarn and fabric tests, structures and the difference from the other fabrics were statis-
instruments, and test standards are summarized in Table 4. tically significant. Regarding shrinkage values in weft direction,
Test results were evaluated statistically with SPSS software. only the values of C6 fabrics were significantly higher than the
With the aim of determining the statistical importance of the others (Figure 2).
differences between the yarn characteristics, ANOVA (Analysis

Table 3. Yarn unevenness, yarn hairiness and yarn liveness test results.

Yarn unevenness Yarn hairiness Yarn tenacity Yarn liveness

Thin plac- Thick places/100mt
%CVm es/100mt(-50) (+50) Neps/100mt(+200) H sH cN/tex % Kr
DC1 8.63 0 0 0 5.76 1.22 17.30 10.87 7.14
DC2 9.21 0 0 0 5.54 1.04 17.44 12.34 7.34
DC3 9.46 200 0 150 5.23 1.03 18.98 11>77 7.14
C1 9.71 0 10 10 5.3 1.01 23.10 9.79 5.63
C2 9.61 0 0 10 4.74 0.97 18.80 9.27 5.17
C3 9.23 0 0 0 4.93 0.95 17.30 10.87 6.88
4  T. BEDEZ UTE

Table 5. Dimensional properties of the samples. Mechanical properties

Width Weight (gr/ Fabric stiffness, elongation, elasticity, growth, tensile strength (in
Weft (Usa- m2) Shrinkage (%)
den- Ends/ Picks/ ble- warp and weft direction), and tear strength (in warp and weft
No sity cm cm cm) Dry Wash Warp Weft direction) values of the samples are given in Table 6.
DC1 16 33.6 18 130.2 361 453 −4.4 −18 According to abrasion resistance of the fabrics, tested with
22 32.8 24.8 133.1 395 435 −1.8 −10 Martindale Abrasion Tester, any abrasion was observed till
28 30.4 30.8 134.7 425 435 0 −7
DC2 16 34.4 18 127.2 378 465 −3.4 −18 25,000 cycles in both weft and warp direction. Since the warp
22 33.6 25.2 128.8 403 446 −1.4 −9.4 yarns are more dominant on the fabric surface, weft yarn char-
28 31.2 33.6 131.5 432 456 0.4 −6.6 acteristics made no difference on abrasion resistance.
DC3 16 34.4 18 128.2 372 466 −4.4 −18.6
22 31.2 24.8 130.8 398 443 −0.8 −10 Dry and wet crocking fastness tests were performed to denim
28 32.4 32.4 134.4 429 442 0 −7 fabrics according to AATCC8 Standard. All samples showed the
C4 16 32 17.2 141.2 319 325 −5.4 0 value of dry crocking between ‘4 and 5’, wet crocking ‘2’. There are
22 31.2 24.4 139.4 356 355 −2 −1
28 32 31.6 138 397 392 −1 −1.4 no significant changes in terms of rubbing fastness. The reason
C5 16 30.4 17.4 144.2 311 317 −5 −0.8 of this is the warp faced 3 × 1 twill denim fabric construction.
22 32 25.6 143.9 342 351 −1 −3.4 As the same indigo dyed warp yarns were used in trials, color
28 31.2 30.8 141.4 371 380 −1 −2
C6 16 34 17.6 130.7 338 463 −6 −23 fastness values of the fabrics were close to each other and weft
22 32.8 25.2 132.7 362 425 −2 −14 yarns effect was found insignificant.
28 32.4 32 134.9 380 425 −10.8 −1 Correlation analysis was performed between the weft den-
sity, weft yarn type, and the fabric parameters. Correlation
coefficients, expressing the strength of the relationship, are

Figure 2. Fabric shrinkage in warp and weft direction.

Table 6. Mechanical properties of the samples.

Growth (%)
1.36 kg Tensile Strength (kgf ) Tear Strength (grf )
Elasticity (%)
No Weft Density Stiffness (kg) Elongation (%) 1.36 kg 30″ Warp Weft Warp Weft
DC1 16 1.14 12 44 7.2 129 40 6524 5872
22 1.48 12 24.8 4 120 57 6524 5545
28 1.66 8.8 15.2 3.6 105 75 6198 4241
DC2 16 1.09 10.4 39.6 6.4 130 42 6524 5937
22 1.93 10.4 21.2 3.2 127 60 6524 5154
28 1.85 8.8 11.2 2 107 82 6328 3914
DC3 16 1.3 12 42.8 4.6 133 43 6524 6263
22 1.59 10 22.8 3.2 122 60 6524 5676
28 1.7 10.8 14 2 109 82 6393 4567
C4 16 0.89 8.4 6 2.8 105 35 6524 5545
22 1.12 9.2 5.6 2.4 102 48 6393 4567
28 1.68 8 4 2 109 75 6198 3914
C5 16 0.6 8.4 8 3.2 102 42 6524 5806
22 1.02 9.6 6.8 2.2 104 55 6524 5350
28 1.58 9.2 5.2 2 104 80 6198 4110
C6 16 1.11 9.6 56 6.8 132 323 6524 4828
22 1.19 12 33.6 6.8 120 48 6524 4241
28 1.38 10 22.4 4.8 120 62 6459 3588
 THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE  5

Table 7. Pearson correlation coefficients.

A B FW (d) FW (w) TeaS (warp) TeaS (weft) STF EL ES TenS (warp) TenS (weft)
A 1 −.234** −.565** −.436** .069 −.332** −.404** −.253* −.084 −.172 −.200
B 1 .045** .766** .388** .420** −.026** .646**,* .949** .837** −.430**
FW (d) 1 .622** −.428** −.399** .888** .125 −.081 .051 .776**
FW (w) 1 .076 .012 .525** .574** .718** .738** .126
TeaS (warp) 1 .600** −.452** .462** .464** .486** −.678**
TeaS (weft) 1 −.466** .372** .372** .394** −.634**
STF 1 .036 −.138 .055 .769**
EL 1 .654** .662** −.242*
ES 1 .888** −.538**
TenS (warp) 1 −.425**
TenS (weft) 1

Note: A is weft yarns type, B is the weft density, other abbreviations are given in Table 3.
**
Correlation is significant at the 0.01 level (2-tailed).; *Correlation is significant at the 0.05 level (2-tailed).

fabric stretch is the length difference between bench marks,

Figure 3. Fabric stiffness values of the denim fabric samples.
summarized in Table 7. The relations between variables increase
as the correlation coefficient get closer to the absolute value 1.
From Table 7, it is clear that weft density was highly corre-
lated with fabric weight (after washing), elasticity, and tensile
strength in warp direction. Besides, some fabric parameters are
correlated to each other, e.g. the correlation coefficient between
tensile strength in warp direction and fabric elasticity.
Fabric stiffness
The effect of weft density on the stiffness properties of the fabrics
was statistically evaluated by ANOVA test and it’s found to be sta-
tistically significant. Fabric stiffness increased with the increase
of weft density (Figure 3). Fabrics’ stiffness values which were
woven with core-spun weft yarns were generally lower than the
stiffness values of the fabrics woven with double-core spun weft
yarns. Within groups, material type of double-core or core-spun
yarns did not significantly affect stiffness. Lowest stiffness values
were belonged to the fabrics woven with C5 (EME cored core-
spun spun weft yarns’) whereas highest stiffness values belonged
to the fabrics woven with DC2 (PBT/EL cored double-core weft
yarns).
Fabric elongation, elasticity and growth
According to ASTM D3107, fabric samples were marked on, with
a certain distance. A specified tension (1.36 kg), was applied to
the specimen and while the specimen was under the tension,
the resulting distance between bench marks was measured. The
prior to application of the tension and while under the tension.
Afterward, the tension was removed and after 30’, the relaxed
distance between the bench marks was re-measured. The fabric
growth is defined as the length difference between the bench
marks prior to application of the tension and after relaxation
(El-Ghezal, Babay, Dhouib, & Cheikhrouhou, 2009).
Breaking elongation and elasticity values of denim fabrics are
given in Figure 4. Denim fabrics’ breaking elongation, elastic-
ity and growth values decreased with the increase in weft den-
sity, statistically significantly, in parallel with previous papers
(Cataloğlu, 2007; Doustar et al., 2010; Şekerden & Çelik, 2010).
Fabric woven with 16 ends/cm weft density showed the highest
elongation and elasticity values.
The fabric growth values of denim fabrics are given in Figure
5.
Elastane-free fabrics’ growth values were lower than the values
of elastane-containing fabrics. Among elastane-containing fab-
rics, growth values of the fabrics produced with core-spun weft
yarns were generally higher than the growth values the fabrics
woven with double-core weft yarns.
Regarding core yarn composition, fabrics woven with dou-
ble-core weft yarns’ elongation and elasticity values were found
to be higher than the fabrics woven with core-spun yarns, except
C6. Fabrics woven with elastane-cored core-spun weft yarns had
the highest elasticity values of all and highest elongation values
than other core-spun yarns.
Tensile and tearing strength
As the tensile and tearing strength are the most expected perfor-
mance properties for the denim fabrics, they were tested accord-
ing to related standards in weft and warp direction. The results
were statistically evaluated and presented in Table 8.
According to ANOVA test results, the effect of the weft den-
sity on the tensile and tear strength values of the fabrics were
found to be statistically significant, both in warp and weft direc-
tion (p > 0.05). Tensile strength in warp direction, tear strength
in warp and weft direction decreased with the increase of weft
density. On the other hand, tensile strength in weft direction
increased with the increase in weft density. Likewise, Ertaş et al.
(2016) reported similar tensile results.
The effect of weft yarn construction was found to be statisti-
cally significant (p > 0.05) only for tensile strength in warp and
6  T. BEDEZ UTE

Figure 4. Fabric elongation and elasticity values of the denim fabric samples.

Figure 5. Fabric growth values of the denim fabric samples.

Table 8. ANOVA test results for the effect of weft density and weft yarn composi- Conclusion
tion.
Within the scope of this paper, the effect of double-core and core-
Weft density weft yarn composition
spun weft yarns’ composition and weft density on the mechanical
F Sig. F Sig.
properties of the denim fabrics was determined. For this purpose,
Tensile strength 10,977 0.000 17,387 0.000
(Warp) different core materials were used in the production of the weft
Tensile strength 222,557 0.000 1,835 0.115 yarns. Double-core and core-spun yarns were used as weft yarns
(Weft) in weaving. The weaving process was performed with three dif-
Tear strength (Warp) 49,112 0.000 1,939 0.096
Tear strength (Weft) 108,568 0.000 5,695 0.000 ferent weft density values (16, 22, and 28 weft /cm) and the other
Shrinkage (Warp) 16,164 .000 8,812 .000 production parameters were kept constant. Twill 3/1 woven fabrics
Shrinkage (Weft) 14,770 .000 16,227 .000 were treated according to standard denim finishing procedures.
After domestic washing processes, mechanical, and dimensional
properties of the samples were tested and statistically evaluated.
tear strength in weft direction. Fabrics produced with core-spun The effect of weft density on denim fabric properties can be
weft yarns had higher tensile strength in warp direction and tear summarized as follows: Correlation analysis showed that weft
strength in weft direction. density was highly correlated with fabric weight (after washing),
Tensile strength values of the fabrics produced with dou- elasticity and tensile strength in warp direction. Besides, some
ble-core spun yarns were generally lower than tensile strength fabric parameters are correlated to each other, e.g. the correlation
values of the fabrics produced with core-spun yarns, in both coefficient between tensile strength in warp direction and fabric
warp and weft direction. As the weft yarn counts were kept the elasticity. Fabric stiffness increased with the increase in weft den-
same for all samples, numbers of sheath fibers were lower for sity. Fabrics’ stiffness values for fabrics woven with core-spun weft
double-core yarns; this caused lower yarn strength and accord- yarns were generally lower than the stiffness values of the fabrics
ingly lower fabric tensile strength. woven with double-core spun weft yarns. Denim fabrics break-
Fabrics produced with elastane-cored weft yarns showed the ing elongation, elasticity, and growth values decreased with the
lowest tensile and tear strength in weft direction while the highest increase in weft density was found to be statistically significantly, in
tensile and tear strength in warp direction. Superior yarn elon- parallel with previous papers. Fabric woven with 16 ends/cm weft
gation of the samples may be the reason of this case. density showed the highest elongation and elasticity values. Fabric

weight difference after washing and fabric shrinkage (in both warp
and weft direction) decreased with the increase in weft density,
because of the denser structure. As the fabric density increased,
the movement of the yarns was limited. Tensile strength in warp
direction, tear strength in warp, and weft direction decreased with
the increase in weft density. On the other hand, tensile strength in
weft direction increased with the increase in weft density.
The effect of the weft yarn composition on denim fabric prop-
erties can be summarized as following: Regarding the effect of
weft yarn composition on the shrinkage values, it is clear that
fabric containing elastane filament, particularly woven with elas-
tane-cored weft yarn, had higher shrinkage values both in warp
and weft direction. Elastane-free fabrics growth values were
lower than the values of elastane-containing fabrics. Among elas-
tane-containing fabrics, growth values of the fabrics produced with
core-spun weft yarns were generally higher than the growth values
the fabrics woven with double-core weft yarns. Fabrics woven with
double-core weft yarns elongation and elasticity values were found
to be higher than those of the fabrics woven with core-spun yarns,
except C6. Fabrics woven with elastane-cored core-spun weft yarns
had the highest elasticity values of all and highest elongation values
than other core-spun yarns. The effect of weft yarn construction
was found to be statistically significant (p > 0.05) only for tensile
strength in warp and tear strength in weft direction,. Fabrics pro-
duced with core-spun weft yarns had higher tensile strength in
warp direction and tear strength in weft direction. Tensile strength
values of the fabrics produced with double-core spun yarns were
generally lower than tensile strength values of the fabrics produced
with core-spun yarns, in both warp and weft direction, due to
lower yarn strength. Fabrics produced with elastane-cored weft
yarns showed the lowest tensile and tear strength in weft direction
while the highest tensile and tear strength in warp direction.
As a conclusion, weft density is found to be more effective
than weft yarn composition for mechanical and dimensional
properties of denim yarns.
Acknowledgement
I would like to present my special thanks to Münevver Ertek Avcı from
Çalık Denim for fabric production and fabric tests.
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author.
ORCID
Tuba Bedez Ute http://orcid.org/0000-0003-0574-2874
References
Akankwasa, N. T., Jun, W., Yuze, Z., & Mushtaq, M. (2014). Properties of
cotton/T-400 and 100% cotton plain knitted fabric made from ring spun
yarn. Materialwissenschaft und Werkstofftechnik, 45(11), 1039–1044.
doi:10.1002/mawe.201400246
ASTM D 3107. Standard Test Methods for Stretch Properties of Fabrics
Woven from Stretch Yarns.
Babaarslan, O. (2001). Method of Producing a Polyester/Viscose Core-
Spun Yarn Containing Spandex Using a Modified Ring Spinning
Frame. Textile Research Journal, 71, 367. doi:10.1177/004051750107
100415
THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE  7
Babaarslan, O., Balcı, H., & Güler, Ö. (2007). Effect of elastane on the
properties of Pes/Vis blend woven fabrics. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon,
2007(2), 110–114.
Babaarslan, O., Telli, A., & Karaduman, S. (2015). Effect of microfilament
yarns on the performance properties of denim fabrics. Tekstil ve
Mühendis, 22(99), 7–14. doi:10.7216/130075992015229902
Cataloğlu, A. (2007). A study on elasticity and growth properties of elastane
composed denim fabrics. M.Sc. thesis, Ege University, Graduate School
of Natural and Applied Sciences.
Celik, H. İ., & Kaynak H. K. (2017). An investigation on effect of elastane
draw ratio on air permeability of denim fabrics. Autex 2017, Greece.
De Boos, A. G., & Tester, D. H. (1994). FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple
Testing) SiroFAST – A System for Fabric Objective Measurement and its
Application in Fabric and Garment Manufacture. CSIRO Textile and Fibre
Technology, Report No. WT92.02, ISBN 0643060251. Retrieved from
https://publications.csiro.au/rpr/download?pid=procite:52208e8c-
3915-4096-89be-3ee4a828d30b&dsid=DS1
Doustar, K., Najar, S., & Maroufi, M. (2010). The effect of fabric design and
weft density on bagging behavior of cotton woven fabrics. The Journal of
The Textile Institute, 101(2), 135–142. doi:10.1080/00405000802309584
El-Ghezal, S., Babay, A., Dhouib, S., & Cheikhrouhou, M. (2009). Study of
the impact of elastane’s ratio and finishing process on the mechanical
properties of stretch denim. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 100(3),
245–253. doi:10.1080/00405000701757925
Ertaş, O. G., Ünal, B. Z., & Çelik, N. (2016). Analyzing the effect of the
elastane-containing dual-core weft yarn density on the denim fabric
performance properties. The Journal of The Textile Institute, 107(1),
116–126. doi:10.1080/00405000.2015.1016319
Ertekin, M., & Kirtay, H. E. (2015). Tensile properties of some technical
core spun yarns developed for protective textiles. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon,
25(2), 104–110.
Fashionable dual core yarns: Perfectly spliced and wound, Tekstil Teknik.
Retrieved July 25, 2017.
Gürkan. Ü. P., & Taşkın, C. (2007a). The effect of weave and densities
ontensile strength of 100% polyester fabrics. 115–118.
Gürkan, Ü. P., & Taşkın, C. (2007b). The effect of weave and densities on
contraction values of 100% polyester fabrics. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 36–39.
Kaynak, K., & Topalbekiroğlu, M. (2007). Investigation of the effect of
weave pattern on abrasion and pilling resistance properties. Tekstil ve
Konfeksiyon, 40–44.
Kaynak, K., & Topalbekiroğlu, M. (2008). The effect of weave type on
dimensional stability of woven fabrics. International Journal of Clothing
Science and Technology, 20(5), 281–288. doi:10.1108/09556220810898890
Minazio, P. G. (1995). FAST – fabric assurance by simple testing. International
Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 7(2/3), 43–48. Retrieved from
http://www.emeraldinsight.com/doi/pdfplus/10.1108/09556229510087146
Özdil, N. (2008). Stretch and bagging properties of denim fabrics
containing different rates of elastane. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern
Europe, 161(66), 63–67.
Producing Core-Spun Yarns Containing Lycra® Elastane Fiber. (2006).
Invista, February.
Sarioğlu, E., & Babaarslan, O. (2017). Fatigue behaviour of core-spun yarns
containing filament by means of cyclic dynamic loading. Autex 2017, Greece.
Sarıoğlu, E., Babaarslan, O., & Avcı, M. E. (2018). Effect of Filament
Fineness on Composite Yarn Residual Torque. Autex Research Journal,
18(1), 7–12. doi:10.1515/aut-2016-0036
Şekerden, F., & Çelik, N. (2010). Weft elastane weaving and fabric
characteristics. TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON, 2(2010), 120–129.
Su, C. I., Maa, M. C., & Yang, H. Y. (2004). Structure and performance
of elastic core-spun yarn. Textile Research Journal, 74(7), 607–610.
doi:10.1177/004051750407400709
Su, C., & Yang, H. (2004). Structure and Elasticity of Fine
Elastomeric Yarns. Textile Research Journal, 74(12), 1041–1044.
doi:10.1177/004051750407401202
Telli, A., Daşan, Y., Babaarslan, O., & Karaduman, S. (2017). Usage of core
and dual-core yarns containing tungsten for electromagnetic shielding.
Adv Res Text Eng., 2(1), 1013.
Vuruşkan, D., Ilhan, I., & Babaarslan, O., ( 2011). Effect of production
parameters on strength and elongation of the selected yarns containing
elastane. Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 21(1), 22–29.