Budget WorldClass Drives

CHIANG MAI - MAE HONG SON LOOP

Highlights of the Drive 109

T he Mae Hong Son Loop is a classic

drive that crosses and recrosses the
spectacular watershed between the 1226 1178
107
MAE SUAI
1322
PANG MAPHA 118
River Ping and the Salween in Burma- 1285
1322

Myanmar. 1095
1150
PHRAO
PAI 2 CHIANG DAO
WIANG PA PAO
Starting in Chiang Mai, the cultural 3 107

and historical capital of Northern Thai- MAE HONG SON 1001

land, a high route crosses to the small 1095 MAE TAENG WANG NUA
108 120
1265
town of Pai, a very popular starting
point for trekking into the hills to see
the Lahu, Hmong, Lisu and Karen hill MAE RIM
1001
tribes common to this region. 1096
107
118 1252

1263

KHUN YUAM SAMOENG 1 CHIANG MAI

1269
West of Pai the route goes through
a rugged, mountainous territory with 108
SANPATONG 1157
CHAE HOM
sunken valleys hemmed by cliffs pen- 1088
1013 1147

etrated by deep caves — an area that 1192 1009 LAMPHUN 1035

offers many opportunities for adven- MAE CHAEM

1033 11

ture sports amidst a landscape of out-

108
standing natural beauty. Rejoining the 1266
1270
1184
LAMPANG
Pai River Valley near the provincial BAN HONG
1034
11

capital Mae Hong Son, the highway 4 HOT

MAE SARIANG 106 KO KHA
provides the main link to this cultur- 1012
1103 1
5 1274

ally distinct enclave with its Shan and 105 SOEM NGAM
Karen peoples. DOI TAO
1023

WANG CHIN
Three return routes offer choices 106 1

OM KOI LI 1125
that can take you on scenic routes
directly back to Chiang Mai, or can take 1087

106
you as far as south as Phitsanulok via 1099 5 THOEN
Sukhothai. Choose your route and then
1102
enjoy your drive through some of the 1267
1294

most spectacular territory in the

Kingdom. 105 THUNG SALIAM

THA SONG YANG 1113

SAM NGAO
ROADS IN THAILAND
All main and most minor roads are sealed. Signs and reflective 1175 1175

markers warn of hazards on major highways, and sodium lighting MAE RAMAT
Oliver Hargreave

illuminates major intersections. Bilingual (English/Thai) road signs 1107

indicate destinations, highway numbers and distances before and TAK 12

after intersections. 5 105

Kilometre stones show highway number and distance along 1108 1132

the road on the front face, and distances to destinations in the MAE SOT WANG CHAO
direction of travel on the side. The police and military set up road 1110

101
check-points on highways, especially at night, but there are no 1109

security problems. KAMPHAENG PHET 115

1116
Please remember to drive on the left!
Emergency Assistance 1-800-BUDGET, Chiang Mai Office (0) 5320 2871, 1206
1090
N 1820 8644
(0) 1980 8723, Phitsanulok Office, (0) 5525 8556, (0) 1

10kms
1117

KHLONG LAN
Online Bookings:
R

Our fastest way to rent a car www.budget.co.th UMPHANG

www.budget.co.th 1
 CHIANG MAI
SECTION 1 : 128 kms. PAI
W hile it is best to see the
sights of inner Chiang
Mai on foot, or to hire a pedicab,
CHIANG MAI to PAI

Oliver Hargreave
5 2175
your car becomes most useful N Õ.ª“¬ ∫.·¡à‡¬Áπ CHIANG DAO
Mae Yen 1962
PAI Huai Nam Dang National Park Õ.‡™’¬ß¥“«
to see the sights around Chiang 10kms
Pong Mai ∫.‚ªÉß„À¡à
Mai. These include Wat Phrathat Tha Phai Hot Spring
Doi Suthep, a must for all who Tha Pai
107
∫.∑à“ª“¬ Ma
visit Chiang Mai, and the Mae eT
∫.‡¡◊Õß·√à 4 aen
Sa Valley, a scenic valley with Muang Rae
Pong Duet Hot Spring
g ∫. ∫°“¬
2005 Mae Sae Sop Kai
so many attractions that the area Pai ∫. ∫ “
∫.·¡àµ–¡“π
Sop Sa Lisu Mae Sae (walk 30min. up from Pang Luang
merits at least a full-day if not a Wildlife Sanctuary HQ)
Mae Taman
Sri Lanna National Park
night at one of the numerous
country resorts (see sidebar and 1095
Mae Ngat Dam
city map section 4). 1265
∫.ªÉ“·ªÉ
Pa Pae MAE TAENG
7
Õ.·¡à·µß
Once you are heading north ∫.«—¥®—π∑å 6 ∫.·¡à¡“≈—¬ 3
Wat Chan Mok Fa Mae Malai
on the route proper, take the 1805
Wat Tha Kham
∫.·¡à·®à¡πâÕ¬
alternative route from KM18 Mae Chaem Noi 1422
Golf
San Pa Yang
Chiang Mai Green Valley Country Club
north of Mae Rim through the ∫.¥Õ° “¡À¡◊Ëπ Tel: (0) 5329 8220-23 Fax: (0) 5329 7386 ∫. —πªÉ“¬“ß
Dong Sam Meun Lanna Golf Course Tel: (0) 5322 1911
countryside following the River Fax: (0) 5322 1743
Royal Chiang Mai

Ping
Hao for a leisurely route which Royal Chiang Mai Golf Club. (Hotel $$$) (alternative route)
Tel: (0) 5384 9301-6 Fax: (0) 5384 9310.
joins H1095 to Pai near KM10 Mae Daet Not <www.royalchiangmai.co.th>
(see sidebar). ∫.¢ÿπ·¡à∑–≈– 2
Khun Mae Tala 1 2
Mid-Range That Mok
5 Lanna Resort. H1296 KM28. MAE RIM 1001
Leave Chiang Mai in good Up-market Resorts
Tel: (0) 5324 8434 Fax: (0) 5336 5224 1096 Green Valley
3 Õ.·¡à√‘¡
time, however, for the best scen- 1 The Regent Resort, Chiang Mai. $$$$ Õ. –‡¡‘ß Mae Sa
CHIANG MAI
H1096 KM2 left turn 500m. SAMOENG 107
City Map (section 4)
ery along the route is to be Tel: (0) 5329 8181-9 Fax: (0) 5329 8190 Ban Bo Kaeo
1685
found in the last 60 kms, par- 2 Hmong Lodge. $$$ Chiang Mai 1708 ∫.∫àÕ·°â« Doi Suthep-Pui
Advance Res only: National Park Lanna
ticular from KM43 onwards as Tel & Fax: (0) 5321 5072 1 ‡™’¬ß„À¡à
Khanin
the road reaches 1350m in alti- 3 Pongyang Garden Resort H1096 KM14 1269
Wat Phrathat CHIANG MAI
$$$ Tel: (0) 5387 9151-2 Fax: (0) 5387 9153 Rustic Doi Suthep 11
tude before descending into the 4 Ban Klang Doi Hotel & Resort H1269 6 Free Land Resort $. H1095
4
KM23 $$$ KM17. Tel. CM Office: (0) 5330 6287-90
valley of the River Pai. Tel: (0) 5336 5306-7 Fax: (0) 5336 5254 7 Pa Daeng’s Cabin $ H1095 KM29.
5

With its wooden buildings

and small town atmosphere, Pai has become a popular The museum details the life of Princess Dararatsmi, a con-
destination for back-packer tourists, and low-cost accom- sort of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). (09:00-17:00 closed
modation is plentiful. The town itself is Shan and Haw Mondays. Adults 50bht.)
Chinese, but Lisu hill-tribe folk can often be seen in the
market. The surrounding valley is a pretty, rural area good to Mae Malai
2 POINTER TWO
18
for walking or just relaxing before or after treks into the
nearby hills. to Mae Sa, H107 KM17 intersection with H1096 to
Samoeng
1096 Samoeng. See Mae Sa Valley Loop
Doi Suthep-Pui National Park Ticket sidebar.
to Mae Rim
If you buy an entrance ticket at either Doi Suthep-Pui
National Park, Mae Sa Falls, That Mok Falls or Mok Fa falls,
The Mae Sa Valley Loop
you may visit any of these sites within the same day.
At KM17 H1096 goes west to the Mae Sa Valley and
Samoeng (38 kms). The upland valley of the Mae Sa is 700
1 POINTER ONE
107
metres in altitude, making it a prime location for tourist
11
The intersection of Chotana Road, attractions and resorts near Chiang Mai.
to Lampang Highway (H)107 and the Chiang Mai -
Lampang Superhighway. Attractions include orchid farms (go left at KM2 for
Sainumphung Orchid & Butterfly Farm or try the Mae Ram
KM16. Darapirom Palace Museum. Turn left just north Orchid Farm KM6), waterfalls (KM6 & 11), the Mae Sa
of the footbridge across the highway, and continuing straight Elephant Camp (KM10), the Queen Sirikit Botainical Gar-
into the Dararatsmi Camp of the Border Patrol Police. Keep dens (KM12) and the Pong Yaeng Elephant Camp (2 kms
going straight till you see a colonial style villa to the left. from left turn at KM16-17).

2 www.budget.co.th
 ALTERNATIVE ROUTE TO PAI VIA WAT CHAN (4WD!) ALTERNATIVE ROUTE ALONG THE HAO VALLEY
If taking this route from Chiang Mai, start very early (23KMS)
and avoid delaying in the Mae Sa Valley in order to reach North of Pointer 2 you will cross a bridge (KM18)
Pai by nightfall. Avoid this route in the rainy season as and then enter a bend to the left. Turn left through an
muddy sections, particularly around KM71 can make this arch at the sign to Thai Buffalo Training Camp. The
“all-weather” road difficult. camp is on the left after 1km (show times: 08:00/09:00/
15:00/16:00 Adults 150bht. Tel: 0 5330 1628). Follow
From Samoeng the route follows a cobbled lane north (do not go left at intersection after 1.5kms.) this rural
to Ban Mae Sap Nua (5 kms.) and is sealed to near Ban route, which at times is reduced to a narrow concrete
Mae Yang Ha (30 kms.). The road continues on a winding lane. Rural temples of note are at Wat San Pa Yang
highland route passing Hmong villages (Ban Mae Chae (KM17) and Wat Tha Kham (by the Bo Tree at KM22).
-40 kms., Ban Mae Tala -54 kms., and Ban Don Sam Meun The route eventually joins H1095 between KM10&11,
-75kms.) Ban Mae Chaem Noi (84 kms.) is a large Karen where-upon you turn left (west) to continue to Pai
village in the middle of pine country. (this route misses pointer 3).
From Wat Chan, which is in the middle of an area
famous for its pine forests, H1265 is an all-weather dirt
road that joins H1095 at KM.85. Cross the River Pai approx ACCOMMODATION
33 kms. from Wat Chan for a slightly shorter route to Pai
on the Pai-Muang Paeng road. • Hut Ing Pai $$, H1095 KM102-3 south turn 300m.
Tel: (0) 5369 9781-2. Bkk Res: (0) 2702 7208.
<www.hutingpai.com>
A little west of KM4, a sealed road to the north leads to • Muang Pai Resort. $ . H1095 KM101-2 left turn 5kms.
That Mok Falls (9kms), From there a dirt road climbs up to Tel: CM office (0) 5327 0906, Fax: (0) 5327 2895.
the village of Ban Pang Hai and Hmong Lodge (16kms) Resort (0) 5369 9988.
• Pai Mountain Lodge $ $, H1095 KM101-2 left turn
H1096 passes into the Samoeng Valley at KM.23, from 5kms. Tel: (0) 5369 9995, (0) 1950 1603
where there are spectacular views west. Dirt roads (4WD!) • Rim Pai Cottages $ - $$ , Chaisongkhram Rd, Pai
lead to White Hmong villages in the hills of the Doi Suthep- Tel: (0) 5369 9133
Pui National range that surround the Mae Sa Valley. The
small market town of Samoeng lies in a narrow valley with
pleasing rural scenery. To Ban Huai Chang Thao (Lisu) &
PAI Ban Muang Noi Pai Dam (33 kms.)
N
Return to Chiang Mai from Samoeng via H1269
Ban Tan Chet Ton
or continue from Samoeng to Wat Chan Ban Na Chalong
Hut Ing Pai H 2
to Chiang Dao
Fang 3 POINTER THREE 1
Mae Malai Market
1095 (H107. KM36) Mae Malai Muang Pai Resort Ban Mo Paeng
101

107 market at the start of H1095 to H

Army Camp
5
Ban Wiang Nua
H Pai Mountain Lodge
to Chiang Mai Pai and Mae Hong Son Mo
Paeng

Ban Mai Sahasamphan (Lisu)

KM18-19 south turn for Mok Fa Falls. 2kms 99
Ban Santichon
(Entry fee included in Doi-Suthep Pui National Park (Haw Chinese) Wat Nam Hu
Wat Ban Hua Na

ticket) Mid-market Hospital

H Rim Pai Cottage
PAI
KM42 north turn for Pong Duet Hot Springs 1 Pai Cabana $. H105 KM101-2 north turn 500m Tel: (0) 5369 9190
Skandia Resort $$ H105 KM12 $$. Tel: (0) 5369 9189
2
6kms. (200 Bht. gives access to Huai Nam Dang 3 Spa Exotic Home.$$ Ban Mae Hi. Tel: (0) 5369 8088, (0) 1917 9351
Walk to Mae Yen Falls
National Park at KM67 on the same day only) 4 Thapai Spa Camping $$ Ban Mae Hi Tel: (0) 5369 9695
Fax: (0) 5321 9610 Bkk Res: (0) 2944 6323
(2 hrs.)
6 Ban Mae Yen
KM67 Huai Nam Dang National Park (6kms).
ai

Rustic
RP

Wat Mae Yen

Dawn viewpoint towards Chiang Dao mountain. 5 Sipsongpanna $ KM99 north turn 2kms, Ban Viang Nua
(art and cooking courses)
(200 bht. Adults. Tents available for rent: park 6 The Sun Hut. $ Ban Mae Yen Tel: (0) 5369 9730, (0) 1960 6519

information Tel: (0) 5347 1669)

Trekking & Rafting Agencies
Police Checkpoint
4 POINTER FOUR A Back Trax, Rungsiyanon Rd. Tel: (0) 5369 9739
B Permchai’s Trekking, Ratsadondamrong Rd. Tel: (0) 5369 8048
H1095 KM85. Start of H1265 to C
D
Thai Adventure Rafting, Rungsiyanon Rd. Tel: (0) 5369 9111
1265 to Mae Northern Green Tours, Chaisongkhram Rd, Tel: (0) 5369 9385
Malai Wat Chan E Elephant Camp Office Ban Thung Yao
Wat Chan (alternative route
to Chiang Mai) 4WD! 1095
92
3 Michel & Yuthit GH
Be Bop Bar Elephant Camp
KM87-88 north turn on concrete road to Thaphai 5 D
Rim Pai Cottage Ban Phong Mai Tha Pai Springs
H 4
Hot Springs (2kms. Though part of Huai Nam Dang 3
A Jazz Up Cafe Pai Canyon
National Park, there is no charge at present) as well E 2

as two resorts with open-air hot mineral baths. Pai Corner Bar B To Muang Paeng
Oliver Hargreave

Mountain Blue C (26 kms.)

1
View Pai Hotel M Police
H Guest Houses
1 PP Orchid. Tel: (0) 5369 9159
2 River Corner Guest House Tel: (0) 5369 9149
(06:00-21:30) 3 The Golden Hut Tel: (0) 5369 9949
500
to Chiang Mai

www.budget.co.th 3
 PAI
SECTION 2 : 109 kms. MAE HONG SON
PAI to MAE HONG SON M Y A N M A R Up-Market N
1610
1 Fern Resort $$-$$$ H108 KM260 east turn 2kms.
Off Tel: (0) 5361 1374, (0) 5361 1877
Mid-Range Fax: (0) 5361 2363. Resort Tel: (0) 5361 3585 10kms
3 Mae Hong Son Resort $$ H1250 KM2-3 2 Golden Pai Resort $$$ H1095 KM202 west turn
Tel: (0) 5361 3138-9 Fax: (0) 5361 3137 500m, Ban Pang Mu. Tel.&Fax: (0) 5361 2265-6.
4 Mae Hong Son Riverside Hotel $$$, Ban Huai Dua. CM Off: (0) 5327 1198 Fax: (0) 5327 9260
1318
Tel: (0) 5361 1504, (0) 5361 3145 Fax: (0) 5361 3146. ∫.ª“ߧ“¡
<www.mhsriverside.com> Pang Kham
5 Rim Nam Klang Doi $$ Ban Huai Dua
Tel: (0) 5361 2142 Fax: (0) 5361 2086
6 Saksuay Klangdoi Resort $$ H1095 KM202-3
west turn 300m. Tel: (0) 5361 1929 Fax: (0) 5361 1764
7 Sam Mork Villas. $-$$ H1250 KM1-2 Tel: (0) 5361 1478

1843
∫.·¡à≈–π“
Mae La Na

1226
∫.∂Ë”≈Õ¥ 8 Õ.‡«’¬ß·Àß
1936 9 Ban Tham Lot 10 WIANG HAENG
Mae Aw Lot Cave
Wat Tham Wua (Meditation)
∫.À⫬º÷Èß
Huai Phung Õ.ª“ß¡–ºâ“
∫.·¡à ÿ¬– PANG MAPHA
∫.π“ªÉ“·Ω° Mae Suya ∫.‡¡◊ÕßÀπâÕ¬
Na Pa Faek Sop Pong Muang Noi
M Y A N M A R 1285
∫. ∫ªÕß
Pha Sua Falls
Tham Pla Pha Sua National Park

11
Ban Na 1095
∫.À¡Õ°®”·ªÉ Pang Paek ∫.µ“≈‡®Á¥µâπ
Mok Cham Pae
Tham Pla ∫.ªÉ“·ªÜ Tan Chet Ton
∫.„π´Õ¬
Ban Nai Soi
ª“ßÀ¡Ÿ 1955 5
Pang Mu Õ.ª“¬ ∫.·¡à‡¬Áπ
2 Mae Surin National Park HQ Mae Yen
PAI
Rustic 1962
8 Cave Lodge $-$$ H1095 KM141 north turn 7kms. ∫.‚ªÉß„À¡à
6 Pong Mai
E-mail <cavelodge@hotmail.com>
1625 9 Wilderness Lodge $ H1095 KM166 north turn Tha Pai Huai Nam Dang
1068 6
7 ·¡àŒàÕß Õπ 4WD 1.5kms ∫.∑à“ª“¬
10 Lang River Guest House $ H1095 KM141 north turn
Huai Sua Thao 5
MAE HONG SON 8kms 4
11 Lisu Lodge, Ban Huai Nam Rin. H1095 KM131
∫.πÈ”‡æ’¬ß¥‘π 3 1 ∫.‡¡◊Õß·√à
Nam Phiang Din Huai Dua∫.À⫬‡¥◊Õ Muang Rae 1265
R Pa

Oliver Hargreave
∫.∑à“∫âÕß i
4 Sop Sa
Tha Bong ∫. ∫ “
1752
108

T he route to Mae Hong Son goes via Soppong, passing

through beautiful scenery as it traverses the valley of
the River Khong. Side trips offer possibilities for exploration
to Ban Nam Hu
to Mae
Hong Son

to Rungsiyanon Rd.
5 POINTER FIVE
KM98 the departure point of H1095 west
from Pai
in the sheer limestone scenery of the area. Nong Bia
1095

After descending from the mountains, Highway 1095

akirts the floor of the valley used for rice cultivation as it KM99. A left turn at the sign for Sipsongpanna guest
approaches the provincial capital, Mae Hong Son. house is the start of a route that goes to Muang Noi and
the Pai Dam (32kms). The dam itself is of no interest, but
Known as the City of Mists, Mae Hong Son’s recent
the dirt road (4WD) passes Lisu and Karen villages en route.
modernisation has cost many of its old wooden buildings,
but the area around the Chong Kham Lake retains its old KM101-2 A concrete lane leads to a Northern Thai
charm. The town’s Shan heritage becomes especially village and the Muang Pai and Pai Mountain Lodge resorts.
pronounced during their main festivals, the Poi Sang Lon A very rough (4WD!) 2km dirt road continues to a Lahu
festival in March or May, and the Hae Chong Phara festival village and the minor Mo Paeng Falls.
in the eleventh lunar month.
KM141 A concrete road leads north Ban Tham Lot,
where you turn right at the junction by the tree and go one
kilometre to Tham Lot Cave. Villagers await with lanterns
(100bht) and rafts (100bht) to escort you through the cave
4 www.budget.co.th
 TALAT BAN SOPPONG (PHANG MAPHA) (08:00-17:30). Cave Lodge nearby has comfortable rooms
N and offers canoe trips, expert speleology and information
To Ban Tham & Cave Lodge (7 kms),
Tham Lot (8 kms.) on adventures into the area.
(old Soppong)
km141
KM152 Sealed road to Mae La Na (4WD). The asphalt
T-Rex House $ Tel: (0) 5361 7164 and dirt road passes the Lahu village of Chabo (3.5kms)
Fax: (0) 5361 7053 before dropping down to the Shan village of Mae La Na
H
Phrae House Restaurant (5.5kms). From there a dirt road continues north (4WD
12:00-22:00
only), passing the Red Lahu villages of Ban Pha Charoen
Soppong River Inn.$ Lemon Hill Guest House $
Tel: (0) 5361 7107 06:30-19:00 H (8kms) and Yapanae (11.5).
to Phang Mapha H
M
district office
Market A sign at the junction north of Chabo indicates dis-
Police
tances to distant villages on a sealed road (sealed 4kms,

Oliver Hargreave
Wat Ming Muan H 4WD only beyond!) that follows a spectacular ridge line
Jungle Guest House $
north towards the border with Myanmar. Allow a full day
for exploration.
KM166 dirt road to Wilderness Lodge (4WD
to Bang Pang Mu
MAE HONG SON Pai
1.5kms-park at top of entrance track to lodge).

Oliver Hargreave
N Remote, rustic ($) accommodation for nature
1095
lovers only. Walk and explore.
KM191-2 Tham Pla (Fish Cave). Part of
207 the Tham Pla Nam Tok Pha Sua National Park
(HQ is 9kms north on H1285), Tham Pla is a
pleasant roadside halt (no charge at present).
At KM92 a concrete lane to the right goes 2.2
kms. Turn left at its conclusion in a T junction
Khunlumph

and right at the second T junction. Note the

Ban Na Restaurant nearby en route to Pha Sua
raphat Rd

Falls (partly spoiled by a hydro-electric project).

The asphalt road continues for 24 kms up to
.

the Hmong village of Ban Na Pa Paek, offering

some great views. Turn right for a dirt road to
Wat Hua Wiang
Mae Aw, a high plateau area for growing
8
4 tea—6kms.
Airport

Wat Phrathat 7 S By turning left at the second T junction

Doi Kong Mu Rose Garden Tour Tourist Police
2 you can go to Mae Hong Son, rejoining H1095
Wat Huai To
6 3 at Km199. One kilometre before this junction
Wat Phra Non
an asphalt road south goes 18kms to Ban Nai
5
Wat Chong Klang Soi, from where you follow a dirt road (4WD -
1 2kms) to reach a Padaung refugee village
(See Padaung Sidebar)
3 Up-market
9
TN Tour 1 Imperial Tara Mae Hong Son $$$$ H108 KM194,
5 Tel: (0) 5361 1021-25 Fax: (0) 5361 1252
Bkk Res: (0) 2261 900 ext IR. <www.imperialhotels.com>
4 2 Rooks Holiday Hotel & Resort $$$-$$$$,
Khunlumphrapat Rd. Tel: (0) 5361 1390, (0) 5361 2108 ACCOMMODATION
Fax: (0) 5361 1524 Bkk Res: (0) 2276 1233

Mid-Range
• Golden Pai Resort $$$ H1095 KM202,
2
3 Mae Hong Son Hill Resort $$ Khunlumphrapat Rd. west turn 500m, Ban Pang Mu. Tel:&Fax:
Police Tel: (0) 5361 2475. E-mail<dao_31@hotmail.com>
4 Mae Hong Son Mountain Inn $$ Khunlumphrapat Rd. (0) 5361 2265-6. CM Off: (0) 5327 3198,
Tel: (0) 5361 1309, (0) 5361 2285 Fax: (0) 5361 2284
5 Piya Guest House $$, Chong Kham Lake (0) 5328 2579 Fax: (0) 5327 9260
City Hall Tel: (0) 5361 1260 Fax: (0) 5361 2308 • Imperial Tara Mae Hong Son $$$$ H108
City Hotels & Guest Houses KM194, Tel.: (0) 5361 1021-25 Fax: (0) 5361
6 Baiyoke Chalet Hotel $$, Khunlumphrapat Rd.
Tel: (0) 5361 1486 Fax: (0) 5326 0939 1252 Bkk Res: (0) 2261 900 ext. IR.
7 Benchaporn Guest House $ Tel: (0) 5361 1577
8 Panorama Hotel $-$$ Khunlumphrapat Rd.
<www.imperialhotels.com>
Tel: (0) 5361 1757 Fax: (0) 5361 1790
9 TN House $-$$ Khulumphrapat Rd. Tel: (0) 5362 0557
• Fern Resort $$-$$$ H108 KM260 east
turn 2kms. Off Tel: (0) 5361 1374, (0) 5361
Tour Agencies
Royal Folk Arts & craft Centre TN Tour, Khunlumphrapat Rd. Tel: (0) 5362 0557, 1877 Fax: (0) 5361 2363. Resort Tel: (0)
(0) 5362 0059 Fax: (0) 5362 0060
Rose Garden Tours, Khulumphrapat Rd. Tel: (0) 5361 1681 5361 3585
6
264 Restaurants
To Huai Dua 1. Fern 10:30-22:00
& Pai Rafting 2. Kai Muk 10:00-03:00
108
3. Thip 10:30-24:00
4. Swiss Chalet

1 S Kat Kam Plaza (department store)

Guest House
to Mae Sariang

www.budget.co.th 5
 MAE HONG SON
SECTION 3 : 164 kms. MAE SARIANG
S outh of Mae Hong Son the road follows narrow valleys,

Oliver Hargreave
MAE HONG SON to MAE SARIANG 6 climbing over low passes while following a route that
1068
Huai Sua Thao MAE HONG SON runs along the foot of the high range to the east, a pattern
·¡àŒàÕß Õπ that continues south of Khun Yuam, where the road often
Nam Phiang Din
∫.πÈ”‡æ’¬ß¥‘π ∫.∑à“∫âÕß 1752 takes a tortuous route following narrow valleys.
Tha Bong

For accommodation in this section see Section 2 Map The best side trips offer possibilities to climb high into
for locations near Mae Hong Son and town maps for the hills to the east of the highway, while routes west from
Khun Yuam and Mae Sariang.
108 Mae Sariang offer the best opportunity to see the River
Salween (see sidebar). The first and most scenic of three
Meo Microwave
∫.°≈“ß possible return routes to Chiang Mai begins in Khun Yuam,
Ban Klang
M Y A N M A R but may only be used by vehicles with 4WD (see section 4)
∫.À⫬‚ªÉß
Huai Pong Mae Sariang is a district town that has been bypassed
by the highway and by extensive modern development. The
938 narrow street and wooden buildings along the river bank
have helped preserve some of the charm of an old river
∫. –‡ª ∫.·¡à ÿ√‘π route trading town.
Ban Sape Mae Surin Mae Surin Falls

From Mae Sariang, you may take Highway 108 east back
Bua Thong (sunflower)fields over the mountains for a straightforward return to Chiang
7
1263
Mai (section 4), or you may continue south along an equally
∫.µàÕ·æ Õ.¢ÿπ¬«¡ scenic route following the Moei River.
Ban To Phae KHUN YUAM ∫.ª“ßÕÿß
24 Hrs Ban Pang Ung
The Padaung — the Long Neck Karen
1056
∫.‡¡◊ÕߪÕπ The Padaung are famous for their “long neck” women.
N Ban Muang Pon The women do not have long necks as such, but have
shoulders forced down by coils worn since they were
10kms 108 young. They may be seen in three villages; in a refugee
1818
∫.ÀπÕß·Àâß camp in Ban Nai Soi (west from H1095 at KM199 — see
Ban Nong Haeng end section 2), in Ban Huai Sua Tao and , perhaps most
1326
preferably, by boat from Ban Huai Dua (see H1250 from
1561 pointer 6). Foreigners must pay 250bht/head at any of the
sites. Thais are free
Ban Mae La Luang to Mae Hong Son
∫.·¡à≈“À≈«ß 6 POINTER SIX

km 104
H108 KM194 The junction of H1250 to
1250
H
Ban Huai Dua (see sidebar).
to Huai Tara
Sua Thao 108
to Huai Dua
to Khum Yuam
Õ.·¡à≈“πâÕ¬ 07:00-21:00
MAE LA NOI
H1250 from Pointer 6
∫.‚æ´Õ 1266
Pho So Ban La Up H1250 forks after 1km. The right fork first crosses the
Yuam

1020 ∫.º“ªÿÑ¡ 1225 ∫.·¡à≈–Õÿ∫ River Pai and then bears left on a concrete lane. Signs for
Pha Pum
Huai Sua Tao “long-necks” direct you to the Padaung vil-
lage (currently 5 kms and 12 fords from the cement lane—a
∫.·¡àµÕ∫ cement extension is under construction). Total distance 10
Mae Top
kms from H108 4WD!
∫. ∫À“π
Sop Han
8 24 Hrs
The fork left (south) goes to Ban Huai Dua (4kms)
1430 passing two riverside resorts en route. Charter a boat
MAE SARIANG Mae Ho
Õ.·¡à –‡√’¬ß ∫.·¡à‡À“– (500bht. for 2 hrs.) from Huai Dua for the two hour trip to
Salwe

Salween National Park HQ

1194
a Padaung village on the banks of the Pai River as well as
to Ban Phiang Din, a village downstream.
en

105
∫.∑“µ“Ωíòß
Tha Ta Fang
KM235. 100m past this marker a narrow, asphalt lane
climbs steeply for 10 kms to a Hmong Village (Meo Micro-
wave) and a microwave station at 1470m. Superb views,
6 www.budget.co.th especially if you walk north from the station. Allow 2 hours.
 to Mae Hong Son
KHUN YUAM 108
H 1263 to Mae Chaem (4WD!)
To Mae Surin Falls
village of Ban La-Ang Nua (41kms). 500m beyond Ban
N La-ang Nua you will come to a gravelled road heading
7 south to Ban Santitham (71kms — drum fuel), eventually
201 becoming H1270 to Ban Kong Loi (108kms).

ACCOMMODATION
Ban Farang Guest House $ Khun Yuam • Mitr A Ree Guest House $$$ , Mae Sariang, Tel: (0) 5368
Tel: & Fax: (0) 5362 2085-6, H 200
(0) 5361 1577 1109 Fax: (0) 5368 1280
Museum

Wat Huai To
To the River Salween
The simplest route is by H1194 from Mae Sariang to
Mae Sam Laep (45kms) from where approx. 2 hour boat
trips can be made south to the confluence of the Moei and
to Pratu Muang Salween (650 bht.), or north to Tha Ta Fang (750 bht.).
Nong Anne
irstrip)

(4 kms)
Until a bridge is built, to reach Mae Sam Laep itself you
Mitr Khun Yuam Hotel $$, Khun Yuam.
disused (a

SH
OP Tel: (0) 5369 1057, (0) 5362 2181
must exit the sealed road after KM45 onto a track down to
S
Wat To Phae H the river bed, double back, ford the river and enter the
199
lane on the opposite side of valley.
H
SH

Sumitra Hotel You can also stay a night at the National Park site over-
OP
S

looking the Salween near Tha Ta Fang (36kms by dirt road

— 4WD!). Visit the Salween National Park HQ (08:30-
108
16:30) the day before to prearrange a park guide and buy
Khrua Pik Mai your food in Mae Sariang before leaving. To reach the
07:00-23:00 Park HQ, go on H1194 to KM1 + 500m and then head
straight west onto the cement lane at the corner. Turn left
Oliver Hargreave

24
at ornamental sign 400m after cement surface ends and
drive 2kms to park HQ (4WD!)
to Mae La Na

KM229 To fellow warriors, wish your souls to Mae Hong Son

MAE SARIANG
be blissfully in heaven. Roadside shrine to N
Japanese victims of World War Two buried near
this spot.
108

7 POINTER SEVEN
Royal Foundation for
Wat Chai Lop Handicrafts
H108 KM201. Intersection
108 with H1263 to Mae Surin Rungthara
to Surin Falls
1263
Mae Chaem Falls (37kms), Bua Thong
km104
km201 Fields (26kms) & Mae 06:00-20:00
Chaem (96kms) (See section
Laeng Phanit Rd.

to Khun Yuam
4 — all routes 4WD!) bus station
Post Office
M Fresh Market
KM200-199 Khun Yuam Museum (08:30-
16:30 daily. donation) houses Japanese war
memorabilia including many photos. Khun to
Mae Sam Laep
Yuam high street begins south of the museum. (46 kms),
2 8 (section 4)
103
Take the concrete road bearing south-west Salween National @ .
mai Rd
Park W i a ng 1 H
to Chiang Mai
around a former landing strip south of the 1194
H Mitr A Ree Hotel
Lotus Hotel
Museum to see Wat To Phae (4kms) — a Shan M
Renu 09:00-23:00

temple known for its tapestry kept in a parti- Inthra 08:00-23:00 Wang Noi Guest House
Oliver Hargreave

tioned room to the left of the entrance in the

main vihara. H Kamolsorn Hotel
Wat Suphan Rangsri
KM132 H1266 is a dirt road (4WD!) that
goes to Ban La Up (25kms), a Christian Lawa 105

village known for its cloth weaving. For a 3

Mid-Range
circular route to Ban Kong Loi on H108 at KM56 1 Mitr A Ree Guest House $$$ Tel: (0) 5368 1109 Fax: (0) 5368 1280
(do not attempt during rainy season — see
Rustic
section 4), continue to Ban Du La Poe (31kms) 2 Riverside Guest House & Northwest Guest House $ (& FAZ travel)
and take the road up the ridge. At approx KM36 3 See View Guest House $, Mae Sariang Tel: (0) 5368 1556

take the right fork (lower road) to the Lawa (section 5) to Mae Sot (230 kms)

www.budget.co.th 7
 MAE SARIANG
SECTION 4 : 190 kms. CHIANG MAI
MAE SARIANG to CHIANG MAI Õ. –‡¡‘ß 1685
107
Õ. —π∑√“¬
7
1263 ∫.∫—«·°â« SAMOENG Doi Suthep-Pui SAN SAI
Õ.¢ÿπ¬«¡ ∫.·¡à “ Bo Kaeo
KHUN YUAM National Park CHIANG MAI
∫.µàÕ·æ Pang Kia Mae Sa
Ban Pang Ung 1269
To Phae Wat Phrathat 11
1056 ∫.ª“ßÕÿß Doi Suthep
N ∫.‡¡◊ÕߪÕπ ∫.À⫬∫ß 1550
13
Muang Pon Õ. “√¿’
Huai Bong ∫.À⫬µÕß 12
10kms Huai Tong Õ.À“ß¥ß SARAPHI
108 ∫.·¡àπ“®√ HANG DONG
∫.ÀπÕß·Àâß Mae Na Chon
Ban Nong Haeng 1816
Sop Wak Õ. —πªÉ“µÕß 106
1326 1013 SANPATONG
1088 2590
1561 108
Doi Inthanon National Park ≈”æŸπ
Mae Pan Falls Vachiratan Falls LAMPHUN
Mae La Luang Õ.·¡à·®à¡ 1009 Õ.ªÉ“´“ß
∫.·¡à≈“À≈«ß MAE CHAEM 1192 PA SANG
1505 Mae Klang Falls

ng
5 4

Pi
11
Õ.®Õ¡∑Õß 1033
Wat Phrathat Wat Phraphuttabat
CHOM THONG Chom Thong
Õ.·¡à≈“πâÕ¬ 07:00-21:00 La Ang Mae Yai Falls Tak Pha
2
MAE LA NOI
∫.‚æ´Õ 1266 1750 ∫.ÀπÕßÕ“∫™â“ß
108
Pho So Ban La Up ∫. —𵑠Nong Ap Chang
1020 ∫.·¡à≈–Õÿ∫
∫.º“ªÿÑ¡ 1225 Fuel Ban Santi Õ.∫â“π‚Œàß
Pha Pum 1270 BAN HONG 1184

∫.·¡àµÕ∫ Om Khut Ob Luang National Park

Mae Top Mae Aep Pong Lo
9

Oliver Hargreave
3
Lao Lee National Park HQ
1
∫. ∫À“π 10
Sop Han 8 ∫.·¡àµÕ∫ Õ.ŒÕ¥ HOT Wang Luang Falls

Õ.·¡à –‡√’MAE
¬ß SARIANG ∫.·¡à‡À“– Kong Loi Bo Luang
Mae Ho 1462 106
Salween National Park HQ 1012

1194 1 Hod Resort $$ H108 KM4. Tel&Fax: (0) 5346 1070 Wat Bang Pang
1103 Mai Takhian
∫.∑“µ“Ωíòß 105 2 Inthanon Riverside Resort $$$, (6kms east from
Tha Ta Fang lights in Chom Thong), Lamphum. ∫.«—ßÀ≈«ß
Ban Wang Lung ∫.·¡àªÕ°
Tel: (0) 5323 3781-3 Fax: (0) 5325 1751
Salwe

3 Krairas Resort $$ H108 KM17. Tel: (0) 5322 9285 Mae Pok
CM Off: (0) 5338 4542-3
en

∫.·¡à “¡·≈∫ 4 Little Home Guest House $ H1009 KM7

Mae Sam Laep Õ.¥Õ¬‡µà“ THUNG HUA CHANG
Tel: (0) 1224 3446 Raft restaurants DOI TAO Õ.∑ÿàßÀ—«™â“ß
5 Navasoung Resort $$ H1192 KM19 1099
Tel: & Fax: (0) 5382 8477
Õ. ∫‡¡¬ 6 Om Koi Guest Houe $$ H1099 KM50
SOP MOEI
7 Ban Nam Ngao Guest House $. H105 KM191 106
1214 Tel: (0) 5368 1188, (0) 5368 1956 Fax: (0) 5368 1353
7 E-mail <asupalak@hotmail.com> Õ.Õ¡°ãÕ¬
Mae Ngao National Park HQ OM KOI LI Õ.≈’È
1668
6
(section 5) (section 5)

H 108 climbs to the Karen village of Ban Mae Ho at KM84,

crossing high valleys and cleared uplands that form
the upper headwaters of the Mae Rit River. After crossing
KM55-6 H1270 to the Mae Tho National Park (16kms)
and the Lawa village of Ban La Ang Nua (67kms) links up
with H1266 to Ban La Up (see section 3 KM128).
the BoLuang Plateau, the route descends to follow a pretty
valley route following the Mae Chaem River to Hot. KM39 South turn for Om Koi (50kms) and Mae Tun
(138kms). Because there is only one way into these pine
From Hot, H108 is a busy road heading north for Chiang forested uplands inhabited mainly by Karen, tourism has
Mai, passing Chom Thong and Sanpatong, major district bypassed this area. Khun Ruj of Om Koi Resort, $ (turn
towns en route. Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest peak, and right at cross-roads in Om Koi and drive 1km. Tel: (0) 1950
the National Park (see sidebar) may be visited by making a 7789) offers expert guidance to the local Karen hill tribe
detour on highways 1088, 1009, or as part of the direct route culture.
from Khun Yuam (see Khun Yuam to Chom Thong sidebar)
to Mae Chaem
to Khun Yuam 8 POINTER EIGHT 9 POINTER NINE
1088 to Hot
108
H108 KM103 junction with H105 to Sop km22
H108 KM22 H1088 to Mae Chaem
to
Mae
to Chiang Mai
Moei and South (see section 5 for routes (45kms). Take this route to approach Doi
to Mae Sariang
Sariang 105
south and west from Mae Sariang) Inthanon National Park from the west,
to Mae Sot
and check out possibilities for “Ecotourist activities at the
Reforestation Office at KM16.
8 www.budget.co.th
KHUN YUAM TO CHOM THONG VIA DOI INTHANON.
156kms 4WD only!
From Pointer 7, H1263 is a sealed road which goes 66kms
over a route that offers fine vistas over the mountainous
territory in this area.
KM12-13. Turn north (left) on the road (asphalt 3kms
only—4WD) for the steep climb to the Hmong village of
Ban U-Kho and the Bua Thong fields (the sunflowers bloom
mid Nov. to early Dec.— 6kms). You can enjoy fine views
west on the route to the Mae Surin National Park at the
Falls (28kms).
H1263 climbs to KM20 (kilometre stones stop at this
point), offering good views west near the top of the pass.
The Hmong Villages of Ban Pang Oung (KM23) and Bang
Pang Kia (KM28 - fuel available) and the Karen village of
Ban Huai Bong (KM19 from junction with H1088) lie along
the route.
After 66kms the sealed road ends at a T junction, where
you turn south (right) on the metalled dirt surface of what
purports to be Highway 1088 at approx. KM78.
The route descends on the rough, dusty dirt road for
5kms to Ban Mae Na Chon before reaching a pitted sealed
surface approaching the village (KM72). Turn right (south)
at T junction in the village and go straight south to Mae
Chaem on the mostly sealed road (very rough dirt road
KM65-62!)
Turn east (left) in Mae Chaem (KM46) and follow H1088
till KM45-44, where you take H1192 uphill to Doi Inthanon.
Take care on the narrow and steep road as it climbs up
20kms to a checkpoint (National Park Fee 200bht/adult)
and H1009 to Chom Thong at KM37-38.
Resorts in Chom Thong, Hot and Mae Chaem offer a
possible base for a night’s rest before a day’s exploration of
Mae Chaem and Doi Inthanon National Park (See Doi
Inthanon sidebar)

KM17 Ob Luang Gorge National Park. Short walks con- to Chiang Mai
12 POINTER TWELVE
nected by footbridges span the Mae Chaem River as it passes H108 KM10-11 junction with H1269 to
1269
through a narrow gorge. to Samoeng Samoeng.
108
10 POINTER TEN to Hot
108
Hot

to Mae
Clock tower H108 KM88/0 junction with H1012 for
Sariag to
1103 Doi
H1103 to Doi Tao
1012 Tao to Suan Dok to City 13 POINTER THIRTEEN
R

to H11 H108 KM4-5 junction with Om

KM59-60 Wat Phrathat Chom Thong temple Muang Rd. Welcome to Chiang Mai.
to Airport Airport Plaza to Hang Dong
to Chiang Mai
108
11 POINTER ELEVEN
to Doi
Inthanon
1009 H108 KM57 junction with H1009 to Doi
Inthanon and Mae Chaem (alternative
to Chom Thong
route form Khun Yuam).
to Mae Rim (section 1)
107
1
1. Wat Chiang Man
2. Wat Chedi Luang
CHIANG MAI
3. Wat Phra Singh to Chiang Rai
Doi Inthanon National Park 4 11 4. Wat Chet Yot

Oliver Hargreave
5. Wat Suan Dok
H1009 goes to the summit of Doi Inthanon (47kms), Three Kings Monument
118
to Doi Suthep
passing three major waterfalls; the Mae Yai Falls (KM1
south turn 13kms), Mae Klang Falls (KM7-8 south turn
Arcade
1km), Vachiratarn Falls (KM20 north turn & park), the bus station
Carrefour
Park HQ at KM31 (accommodation, visitor centre & Kat Suan Kaew S
S
permits for Kiw Mae Pan trail at KM42. Tel: (0) 5331 1

1608), the Royal Pagodas (KM40 west turn), and the M

3 M
summit (47kms). Access to the Mae Pan falls is from 5 2 N
H1192 KM6-7 (3kms 4WD). The national park entrance N Train Station Makro
S
fee will give you access to all sites in the park for one M
1006
PIN

day. The park also runs a home-stay ecotourism

G R I VE

programme at KM26 (Tel: (0) 1881 7346 or (0) 1258 bus station
Post Office
6071) R M Fresh Market
Airport bridged interchange
The following resorts are in good locations for an 13
intersection with lights 11

Airport Plaza S one-way

early start to explore Doi Inthanon: N Night Bazaar
Little Home Guest House H1009 KM7 Tel: (0) TAT (0) 5324 8604,
(0) 5324 8607
1224 3446
Navasoung Resort H1192 KM19 Tel: & Fax: 108
Tel: (0) 5320 2871
S Lotus
(0) 5382 8477 106
to Chom Thong (section 4) to Lamphun (section 5) to Lampang

www.budget.co.th 9
 MAE SARIANG
SECTION 5 : 593 kms. CHIANG MAI VIA MAE SOT

T he route south (section 4)

Oliver Hargreave
MAE SARIANG to THOEN 106
from pointer 8 3 1
1214 Õ.Õ¡°ãÕ¬
on H105 to Mae Sot OM KOI Õ.¬“߇ªï¬π LI Õ.≈’È
Salw

Mae Ngao
(232 kms) is remote Mid-Range National Park 1668 Ban Yang Piang

Wang
1 Taweechai Resort
aeen

and especially pictur- $-$$$ H105 1538 1087

Wat Wiang
KM71 Tel: (0) 5553 checkpoint Kaeng Ko (boats) 18
esque as far as Mae 1287, (0) 5553 1569 Mae Ping
National Park
106

Salit (120kms), but do Fax: (0) 5553 3203 Bkk 4 Ban Thung Ko Õ.‡∂‘π
Res: (0) 2656 5661 Fuel 1468 1099 THOEN
not travel on this sen- 2 Suan Kamol Resort Ban Tha Song Yang Ko Falls
$$ H105 KM20 ∫.∑à“ Õ߬“ß
sitive border route at Tel: (0) 5558 1451 Mae Moei National Park
Huai Khi Nok
1102

night. 5
1267
∫.·¡à ≈‘¥ 1886
Mae Salit MAE PHRIK
∫.·¡àµ◊Ëπ ∫.·¡à√–«“π 884
Rustic Mae Tun
Mae Sot has a 3 Ban Nam Ngao Guest House $. 105 Tham Usu (cave) Mae Rawan ∫.·¡à‡™’¬ß√“¬
Mae Chiang Rai
colourful morning H105 KM191 Tel: (0) 5568 1188, ∫.·¡àÕÿ ÿ
(0) 5568 1956 Fax: (0) 5568 1353 Mae Usu
market, jewellery E-mail<asupalak@hotmail.com> Bhumiphol Golf Club Dam Ban Tha Pui 1
4 Pa Pa Valley $ H105 KM143 Fuel
shops selling Bur- (Ban Tha Song Yang)
(0) 5559 9093-6 Õ. “¡‡ß“
THA SONG YANG SAM NGAO
mese gems (perhaps 5 Wila Guest House $ H105 Õ.∑à“ Õ߬“ß 1450 1664
KM116 (Ban Mae Salit) 1027
at good prices) and
Refugee Camp (Bae Ko) Chedi Yuttahathi Õ.∫â“𵓰
an active night-life ‡™’¬ß„À¡à BAN TAK
1175
You may cross the 1269
13 11
CHIANG MAI 1175
17
Thai Myanmar Friend- 1006 14
1317 1498
MAE RAMAT
ship Bridge into 12
Chiang Mai-Lamphun Õ.·¡à≈–¡“¥ 2 1107
1157 16
Miyawaddi without 106 Golf Club (0) 5324 8397-8 Taksin Maharat
µ“° TAK 12
1147 National Park
your Budget vehicle 108
≈”æŸπ Pha Wo Shrine Mae Lamao
∫.·¡à≈–‡¡“
for a one-day visit till LAMPHUN ei 105
Mo 1024 Market
17:30hrs. PA SANG 1035 1108
Õ.ªÉ“´“ß 1 Hilltribe Õ.«—߇®â“
1033
11
Õ.·¡à Õ¥ 15 Development Lan Sang Falls WANG CHAO
From Mae Sot, Õ.·¡à∑“ MAE SOT Centre & National Park
MAE THA 1110 Pin
H105 crosses the ∫.π“‚∫ å g
Elephant Na Bot 1109
ranges over to Tak Conservation Centre ∫.‡®¥’¬å‚§ä–
1184
1034
Chedi Kho Pha Charoen Falls
(83kms), from where Wat Phrathat LAMPANG
11 Kulap Doi
Ban Chong Khep (07:00-21:00) 1765
you may take H12 to Lampang Luang ≈”ª“ß
Sukhothai (80kms) Õ.‡°“–§“ 1 Õ.æ∫æ√–
106
KO KHA PHOP PHRA
and Phitsanulok Mai Takhian 1274
N 1206
1090
(138kms — see SOEM NGAM 10kms
Budget’s WorldClass
N
Drives “Chiang Mai- Õ.∑ÿàßÀ—«™â“ß 1650 1117
THUNG HUA CHANG Õ.§≈Õß≈“π
Sukhothai Loop & 10kms
KHLONG LAN Ban
Khlong Lan Falls
“Loei and the Middle 106
1
∫.ÀπÕßÀ≈«ß Huai Nam Yen & National Park
Kklong
Lan
Mekong). To return Nong Luang (no through route)
LI Õ.≈’È Õ.Õÿ⡺“ß
to Chiang Mai, take UMPHANG Mae Wong National Park

H1 for a fast route, or

to tha Song Yang
follow the minor roads on the west bank of the Ping and 105
14 POINTER FOURTEEN
Wang rivers to Thoen (92kms), and then H106 to the old 1175
to Ban Tak H105 KM35-6 H1175 is a scenic narrow road
northern capital of Lamphun and Chiang Mai (181kms from (alternative route)
to Ban Tak (94kms) avoiding Mae Sot — no
Thoen).
to Mae Sot
fuel on this route!
H105 Mae Sariang to Mae Sot (232 kms — fuel from bypass to Tak
drums only till KM33!). KM190 a rough track (4WD!) leads to bridge 15 POINTER FIFTEEN
105 105
to a riverside camp site at the Mae Ngao National Park to Mae The circle junction at KM76 east of Mae Sot.
(5kms). From KM115-14, H1267 climbs to The Moei River Sot town
1090 Turn south on H1090 for Umphang (164kms
National Park HQ (11 kms) and viewpoints near KM18-20 Phop Phra - see sidebar)
Umphang
and Karen Villages beyond (35kms). The Mae Usu caves
(KM94 west turn 2kms) are part of the national park. Rustic H105 Mae Sot to Tak (83kms). KM26 Taksin Maharat
accommodation in lovely locations at KM190 (Ban Nam National Park. A north turn (3kms) leads to the park and a
Ngao), KM143 (Pa Pa Valley) and KM116 (Wila Guest steep 400m trail down to a large specimen of diptero-
House) carpus.anisoptera; KM26-25 Hill Tribe Welfare Development
Centre and Lahu village (south turn 5kms); KM12 Lang
Sang National Park — a south turn goes to a small local
10 www.budget.co.th
waterfall (3kms).
 to Mae Sariang to Tak
Khao-Mao Khao-Fang
H1090 to Umphang MAE SOT (km.2 10:00-22:00) 105
This highway is the only way in
105
to Umphang (164kms) — a small 1 15
105
district town bounded by mountains
and nature reserves. Turn left at fork
at KM31 and fill up with fuel at last N SP
gas station before Umphang near Tour

Oliver Hargreave
2
KM44. Allow at least 5 hours on this
spectacular, but slow highway. 3
Kwangtung (Chinese)
Comfortable, if not rustic, Restaurant
guesthouse/resorts organise rafting,
elephant and trekking tours to Morning market area City Hotels
Karen villages, the Tilosu Falls and 105
2 DK $ Hotel Intakhiri Rd. Tel: (0) 5554 2648-9, (0) 5553 1699
1090
forest reserves. Advance booking to Moei River Bridge & Myanmar 3 Pornthep Hotel $-$$ Soi Sriwiang. Tel: (0) 5553 2590-4

recommended. Rafting/Trekking (Umphang area)

Mid-Range Mae Sot Travel Centre SP Tour. Tel: (0) 5553 1409, (0) 5554 6121-3
1 Central Mae Sot Hill Hotel, $$-$$$ Asia Highway (H105 KM77-8) Fax: (0) 5553 2279 Bkk Off: (0) 2573 7942, (0) 2981 9991-2
Tu Ka Su Cottage - . Tel: (0) 5553 2601-8. Bkk Res: (0) 2541 1234 ex 4444
to Umphang
Rooms in family sized bungalows.
Tel: (0) 5556 1295.
14). The small Yuttahatti Pagoda is 1km down this road. If
Umphang Hill Resort -$$$ proceeding to Bhumiphol Dam, keep going straight after
Tel: (0) 5556 1063-4 or call SP Tour crossing river (KM54), crossing several lanes till you come
in Mae Sot to a T junction with main road. Turn left for Dam (5kms)
and right for H1 (14kms).
to Chiang Mai (fast route) 16 POINTER SIXTEEN
Lampang
H1 Tak to Thoen 92kms - fast divided highway. The
1 to Sukhothai The junction of H1 and H12. Go west
to H1107 Phitsanulok road to the Bhumiphol Dam (8th largest concrete arch dam
(cross river 12 for H1107 to Ban Tak and rural route
for alternative goes west at KM463. H1102 to Mae Phrik at KM490-1
route) to Bhumiphol Dam. Take Highway
provides an alternative rural route to Thoen.
12 east for Sukhothai (see Budget’s
to Mae Sot (H105)
Bangkok ‘Chiang Mai-Sukhothai Loop’), or H1
18 POINTER EIGHTTEEN
for the fastest route north. to Lampang
to Li, Lamphun
to Bhumiphol Dam
Yuttahatti km31 106 H1 KM513-4 west turn for H106 to Li.
1
Pagoda (1km)
alternative 1175
17 POINTER SEVENTEEN After crossing the river, a south turn leads
route from to Thoen district town (4kms) and H1102
Mae Ramat H1107 KM30-31 termination of alterna-
1107
Wat Wiang (2kms) km513
along the west bank. Wat Wiang (2kms)
tive route H1175 to Mae Ramat (pointer to Thoen
to Ban Tak
to Tak has one of only a few remaining classic
northern-style vihara.
to Thoen
TAK
Tourism
Authority
H106 Thoen to Lamphun (155kms) and Chiang Mai
To Shrine
Ban of King Taksin
of Thailand
16
(181kms) — see section 4 map. Beware of heavy trucks
Beer the Great
Tak Gardens to Chiang Mai
fr om the lignite
1107

12 106
LAMPHUN mine near KM36 on
N the bends between
Train Station KM12-29! At KM 47
PI
NG

H1087 goes to the

RI

to Sukhothai
VE
R

Wooden House Sriphan Noodles

1
(09:00-15:00)
Mae Ping National
$ (see Chiang Mai- Park HQ (20kms),
Sukhothai Loop WCD)
Footbridge
4 1
Ku Chang Ko Falls (42kms)
KUANG

(closed) and the Kaeng Ko

Dao Khanong Rapids (43kms).
Oliver Hargreave

Mid Range
RIV

1 Viang Tak Hotel $$ Mahat 2 Rafts accommodation

ER

Thai Bamrung Rd.

Tel: (0) 5551 1910, (0) 5551 1950
available as well as
2 Viang Tak 2 Hotel $$ 419
boat trips on the Mae
Chomphol Rd. Wat Phra Yeun
Tel: (0) 5551 2686, (0) 5551 2507 Ping Lake. Advance
Bkk Res: (0) 2511 2363 3
booking recom-
City Hotels to Lampang mended (Tel: (0) 5351
104
3 Suan Sin Garden Resort $ 114
Tel: (0) 5551 1102
N
Wat Phrathat Haripunchai 9031). Sights in
4 Songwon Thai Hotel $ Taksin Rd: Wat Mahawan Lamphun include Wat
Oliver Hargreave

Tel: (0) 5551 1153

National Museum
Tourism Authority of Thailand
1015
Phrathat Haripunchai
M
to Sanpatong &
Tel: (0) 5551 4341-3 Wat Chamadevi and Wat Chamadevi.
Chid Chon Queen
1 Restaurant Chamadevi Monument bus station
& to Rung Market
Sports
106 Stadium

to Mae Sot 105 to Kamphaeng Phet to Pasang

www.budget.co.th 11
 INSTRUCTIONS
Go this way Highway
Number
umbered pointers listed in sequence in the direction of travel show

3
4
Pointer number
and direction
of travel
N important road junctions along the recommended route (reverse these if
travelling in the opposite direction). These are illustrated as follows.

Kilometre references are noted in
two ways:
H107 KM13 = Highway 107 kilometre
stone 13 is close to the point of
focus
H107 KM98-9 = The point of focus lies
between kilometre stones 98&99.
Kilometre stones are usually found
at 1 or 2 km intervals on most num-
bered highways. Though names are
written in Thai, the highway number
(top front face of stone) confirms your
route in the absence of English signs.
Background shading indicates
points of interest/side trip/alternative
road along or off the recommended
route.
H108* = Black stars by highway
numbers/along routes indicate rough
patches where the sealed surface has
buckled/potholed and broken up. Be
ready to slow right down frequently,
avoid driving faster than 60 kph!
4WD Only! If you are driving a
vehicle that does not have four wheel
drive, please do not take this road.
Though it is not usually necessary to
engage the 4WD itself, the higher
clearance and fortified suspension of
such vehicles make their use obligatory
on such roads.
Dirt Roads go all over the moun-
tains of N. Thailand, but there are few
signs, even in Thai, and it is very easy
to get disoriented. Main unsealed roads
are all-weather, but in the rainy season
most dirt roads will often have patches
Remember to always take drinking
water - allow for emergencies. Make
sure you have a torch, enough fuel,
basic provisions and warm clothing
before entering remote roads through
mountainous areas.
Help us get it right! If you have
suggestions or wish to point out errors
in this guide, please advise our staff.
INFORMATION
This guide is designed to
complement regular guide-books. The
offices of the Tourism Authority of
Thailand (TAT — locations on city
maps) at Chiang Mai and Tak can also
provide very useful information and
brochures.
ACCOMMODATION
Country resorts often occupy
delightful settings offering rural
ambience with the convenience of
chalet-rooms with fan/air-conditioning
and hot shower (fridge and TV) in a
garden setting near a central restaurant/
reception area. In the high season —
November through April — advance
booking is highly recommended, if not
a must for the best places both in the
country and the city.
Credit cards are usually only
accepted by larger resort/hotels —
À¬ÿ¥
travel with enough cash baht to see
you to the next ATM (at banks in main
district towns — amphoe). Good hotel
rooms in provincial cities usually cost
1000-1999 baht ( ), depending on
season.
2000 Baht up
1000-1999
500-999 Baht
less than 500 Baht
NATIONAL PARKS
Visitor centres at park HQs usually
have brochures with maps detailing
sights, though English language versions
may not always be available. There are
board maps and walking trails are
usually well-marked.
Park accommodation can be
spartan, and is not well set up for walk-
in trade unless you bring your own
tent and food. Prior reservation from
the Forestry Department in Bangkok
is essential in the season. Tel: (0) 2579
7223, (0) 2579 5734, (0) 2561 4292-4
ext. 724&725.
From August 2000 all foreigners are
being charged 200 Bt./head entrance
fee, and this fee is being rigorously
applied at most national parks along
the route in this guide. Hitherto charges
were 40-50 Bt./vehicle and 20 Bt./head,
as it is for Thai citizens.
À¬ÿ¥
µ√«®
(c) all rights reserved. Compiled by Oliver Hargreave (<oliverh@loxinfo.co.th>)

with deep mud ruts, glutinous mud that

for WorldClass Rent A Car, Co Ltd. Graphics by Within Design 0 5327 2111

clogs up the wheels and or moist

compacted mud that is so slippery that STOP NO PASSING STOP (POLICE)
chains are obligatory — under no CHECK
circumstances venture onto dirt roads
in the hills during the rainy season!
We recommend that you avoid dirt
roads, as you will be responsible for
SLIPPERY ROAD STEEP HILL FALLING ROCKS
anything that happens to vehicles off
(LAND SLIDE)
regularly maintained and paved
roadways. Should you go on a dirt For reservations, please contact your
road, however, please drive very slowly travel consultant or call Budget:
to avoid mechanical problems and to
keep the dust down, especially when In the U.K.: 0541 565-656, In the U.S.: (800) 527-0700
passing people and communities. In Germany: 01805 244-388, In Australia: 1-300 362-848
In Singapore: 532-4442, In Thailand: 1-800-BUDGET
12