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Praise for Hooked

‘Gripping’ – Wall Street Journal

‘Excellent . . . blends investigative reporting, science and foodie

writing to argue that the processed food industry is no
different from tobacco companies’ – New York Times

‘Chilling . . . succeed[s] brilliantly in evidencing the systematic

venality of corporate junk food and drink interests’ – Guardian

‘Hooked shows how food manufacturers have taken

advantage of our habits, our biology, our psychological
quirks, and our ignorance to transform foods into addictive
substances. He takes us into laboratories and courtrooms,
kitchens and legislatures-and shows us how we can win our
freedom back’ – Charles Duhigg, author of The Power of Habit

‘Michael Moss delivers again with a deep, well-written

investigation into food addiction and mass food production.
With so many companies competing for our attention, dollars,
and stomachs, it’s more important than ever to educate ourselves
about food and arm ourselves against efforts to get us hooked.
This is a very important read for anyone who cares about their
health’ – Sylvia Tara, author of The Secret Life of Fat

‘No one has done more to reveal the intentional

and underhanded ways in which food companies
manipulate our desires and eating habits than Michael
Moss. In Hooked, he shows how these ongoing crimes
must be challenged and stopped. A must-read for
anyone who cares about food, general well-being, and
justice’ – Mark Bittman, author of Animal, Vegetable, Junk

‘Hooked is smoothly written, with just the right amount of

fascinating scientific detail’ – NPR

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 ‘Pulitzer Prize-winning investigative journalist Moss is a
powerhouse when it comes to research and analysis, and
much like his contemporary Michael Lewis, he possesses the
ability to maintain a solid narrative arc . . . He explores the
often devious and potentially dangerous ways that
manufacturers manipulate foods to trigger addictive
behaviour, spark sense memories of foods from our
childhoods, and treat addiction and dependence as a
corporate strategy . . . Another clear-eyed inquiry into the
companies that feed us, hook us, and leave us
wanting more’ – Kirkus Reviews

‘Moss brings the same keen-eyed, lucid reporting to Hooked,

illuminating the science of addiction to show that processed
food is a drug . . . If knowledge is power, then Hooked provides the
facts we need to free ourselves from remaining unwitting
conspirators in Big Food’s ruse’ – San Francisco Chronicle

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HOOKED

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Copyrighted Material
HOOKED
HOOKED
HOW WE BECAME ADDICTED
TO PROCESSED FOOD
HOW PROCESSED FOOD
BECAME ADDICTIVE

M I C H AE L MOSS
MICHAEL MOSS

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 1

WH Allen, an imprint of Ebury Publishing,

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Copyright © Michael Moss 2021

Michael Moss has asserted his right to be identified as the author of this Work in
accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988

First published in the United States by Random House in 2021

This edition published in the United Kingdom by WH Allen in 2022

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Copyrighted Material
ForFor
EVE, AREN,
EVE, andand
AREN, WILL,
WILL,
my my
all and everythings
all and everythings

Copyrighted Material
Copyrighted Material
 C OCNOTNETNETNST S

Prologue:
Prologue:
“I Had
“I Had
a Food
a Food
Affair”
Affair” xi xi

PART
PART
ONE:
ONE:
INSIDE
INSIDE
ADDICTION
ADDICTION
Chapter
Chapter
One:
One:
“What’s
“What’s
Your
Your
Definition?”
Definition?” 3 3

Chapter
Chapter
Two:
Two:
“Where
“Where
Does
Does
It Begin?”
It Begin?” 28 28
Chapter
Chapter
Three:
Three:
“It’s“It’s
All All
Related
Related
to Memory”
to Memory” 55 55

Chapter
Chapter
Four:
Four:
“We
“We
by by
Nature
Nature
AreAre
Drawn
Drawn
to Eating”
to Eating” 80 80

PART
PART
TWO:
TWO:
OUTSIDE
OUTSIDE
ADDICTION
ADDICTION
Chapter
Chapter
Five:
Five:
“The
“The
Variety
Variety
Seekers”
Seekers” 103103
Chapter
Chapter
Six:Six:
“She“She
Is Dangerous”
Is Dangerous” 127127

Chapter
Chapter
Seven:
Seven:
“Give
“Give
Your
Your
Willpower
Willpower
a Boost”
a Boost” 160160
Chapter
Chapter
Eight:
Eight:
“The
“The
Blueprint
Blueprint
for for
Your
Your
DNA”
DNA” 184184

Epilogue:
Epilogue:
“Changing
“Changing
What
What
WeWe
Value”
Value” 211 211

Acknowledgments
Acknowledgments 215215
Notes
Notes 219219
Bibliography
Bibliography 257257
Index
Index 261261

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Copyrighted Material
 P RPORLOOLGOUGEU E

“I “I
Had
Had
aaFood
FoodAffair”
Affair”

Jazlyn
Jazlyn
Bradley
Bradleywaswas sevenseven
yearsyears
old old
when when
McDonald’s
McDonald’s worked
worked its way
its way
intointo
herher
life.life.
HerHer familyfamily
movedmoved to atoredbrick
a redbricktownhouse
townhouse in Brooklyn,
in Brooklyn,
NewNew York,York,
onlyonlya block
a blockandand a half
a half
from from
oneone of the
of the
restaurant
restaurant chain’s
chain’s
locations,
locations,making
making it anit easy
an easystopstop
for for
a quick
a quickbitebite
to eat.
to eat.
Bradley
Bradley lovedloved
to get
to get
the the
Happy Happy Meal,Meal,the the
box’s box’s
golden
goldenarches
archesopening
opening to reveal
to reveala a
fragrant
fragrantburger,
burger,fries,fries,
a cookie,
a cookie, andanda toy.
a toy.
Some Someevenings,
evenings, herherfather
father
camecamehome home from fromwork work
withwitharmfuls
armfuls of McDonald’s,
of McDonald’s, the the
boxesboxes
andand
bagsbags
multiplying
multiplying as the
as the
family
familygrew.grew.
Bradley
Bradley andand herhersiblings—
siblings—sheshe
waswas
the the
second
second of ten—
of ten— wouldwouldleapleap
upon upon
these these
feasts,
feasts,
jostling
jostling
for for
the the
lastlast
fry.fry.
In the
In the
earlyearly
daysdays of her
of her
childhood,
childhood, those
thoseMcDonald’s
McDonald’s nights
nightswere were
special
special
occasions.
occasions. TheTheBradleys’
Bradleys’ dinners
dinnerswere weremostly
mostly
home-home-cooked,
cooked,
andand
sheshewaswas the the
pickiest
pickiestof the
of the
bunch.
bunch. SheShe
diddidnotnotlikelike
meat meat
loaf.loaf.
SheShe
diddid
notnot
likelike
liver.
liver.
SheShe really
really
diddidnotnotlikelike
mashed
mashed potatoes,
potatoes,whichwhich
herher
mother
mother seemed
seemed incapable
incapable of imagining
of imagining dinnerdinnerwithout.
without. With With
herher
brothers
brothers andand sisters
sisters
all happily
all happily eating
eating
theirtheir
favorite
favorite
foods,
foods,
Bradley
Bradley
camecameup with
up with a way a wayto get
to get
what whatshesheliked,
liked,
too.too.
At dinnertime,
At dinnertime, she’she’
d d
announce
announce thatthatsheshe wasn’t
wasn’tall that
all that
hungry,
hungry,whichwhichherhermother
mother would
would
shrug
shrug
off as
offan as attempt
an attempt to diet—
to diet—Bradley
Bradleyhadhad started
started
to put
to put
on some
on some

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weight.
weight.TenTenminutes
minutes later,later,
however,
however, she’dshe’bedout
be out
the thefrontfront
door, door,
sneak-sneak-
ing ing
down downthe the
block blockto McDonald’s.
to McDonald’s.
SheShe usedused her her
allowance
allowance on these
on these excursions,
excursions, which which led led
her herto ap-to ap-
preciate
preciateanother
another of fast
of fastfood’s
food’s
charms.
charms. TheThe largerlarger
sizessizeshardlyhardlycostcost
anyanymore morethanthan the the small.small.
Once Onceshe shedid didthe the
math,math, she she ditched
ditched the the
HappyHappy Meal Mealfor forthe theNumberNumber Two: Two:a paira pair
of burgers
of burgers for fornearly
nearly the the
priceprice
of one.
of one.
TheThe same samelogiclogic
worked
worked for for
the the
sodassodasandand fries;
fries;
getting
getting
the the
giant giant
sizesize
onlyonly made made sense.
sense.
By middle
By middle school,school,McDonald’s
McDonald’s hadhad becomebecomethe thefirstfirst
meal meal
of Brad-
of Brad-
ley’sley’s
day.day.
She’She’
d skipd skipbreakfast
breakfast andand lunch,lunch,but but
more morethanthan make make up forup for
it when
it whenschoolschool
let out.
let out.
She’She’
d workd workthe the
whole wholemenu menu board,
board, addingadding the the
biggest
biggest
fries,fries,
the the
biggestbiggestshake,shake,
andand a couple
a coupleof pies
of pies
to theto the
twintwinburg- burg-
ers,ers,
andandshe’dshe’double
d double it all,
it intending—
all, intending— yet sometimes
yet sometimes failing—
failing— to give
to give
the the
secondsecondmeal mealto ato friend
a friendor her
or her
youngest
youngest brother.
brother.At one At one
point,point,
she she
commuted
commuted to an toafter-
an after-school
schoolprogram
program in thein the
Bronx,
Bronx,where whereshe’dshe’stop
d stop
at another
at another McDonald’s
McDonald’s before
beforeheading
heading backbackintointo
the thesubway;
subway; there’there’
d d
be abepilea pile
of empty
of empty wrappers
wrappers on her
on herlap lap
by theby the
timetime she she reached
reached her her
stop.stop.
“I had“I had
oneone of those
of those deep deep
stomachs,
stomachs, ” she ” she
toldtoldme.me. “I just
“I just
loved lovedto to
eat.eat.
I had I had
a food
a food affair.
affair.
As aAskid, a kid,
I didn’t
I didn’twantwantthatthatmilk. milk.
I wanted
I wanted
burgers
burgers andand FrenchFrench fries,fries,
or hotor hotdogsdogs andand FrenchFrench fries. fries.
My My mom mom
wouldwouldfindfindcakecakewrappers
wrappers underundermy my bed,bed,andandeveneven now,now, in thein the
mid- mid-
dle dle
of the
of the
night,night,
I’ll goI’lland
go andlooklookin thein the
refrigerator.
refrigerator.
” ”
In describing
In describing her her eatingeatinghabits,
habits,
Bradley
Bradley waswastouching
touching on themes
on themes
thatthat
peoplepeopleeverywhere
everywhere wereweregrappling
grappling withwith
in dealing
in dealing withwith foodfood andand
the the
trouble
trouble
it could
it could cause.cause.
SheShesensedsensedthatthat
therethere
waswas something
something going going
on inside
on insideher herbody bodyto deepen
to deepen her her
appetite,
appetite, but but
she she
couldn’t
couldn’t nailnail
down down
justjust
what what
thatthatmight might be. be.
SheShe felt felt
passionate
passionate aboutaboutfood, food,but but
in aintaw- a taw-
drydrykindkindof way:
of way: an “affair,
an “affair,
” as” sheas she
calledcalled
it. And
it. And it wasn’t
it wasn’t anyany old old
thingthing
thatthat
stolestole
her her heart;heart;
particular
particular foods foods
werewereuncanny
uncanny in thein the
wayway
theytheyattracted
attracted her.her. SheShe despised
despised potatoes,
potatoes, yet yet
flipped
flipped for for
fries.fries.
SheShe
lovedloved
ground
ground beef— beef—if itifarrived
it arrivedin ainbun.a bun.SheShe
got gotfull full
almostalmostimme- imme-
diately
diately
at herat her
mother’s
mother’s table,table,
but buthadhad never never
metmet a bag a bagof fast-
of fast-
foodfood

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takeout
takeout thatthat
waswasbig big
enoughenough to satiate
to satiate
her.her.
What Whatsense sense
did didanyany of that
of that
make?make?
Moreover,
Moreover, when whenshe shewaswas struck
struck
by the
by theurgeurge
to eat—
to eat— which whichcould could
happen
happen anytime
anytime duringduring
the thedaydayor the
or the
night,night,
eveneven if sheif she
waswas not not
re- re-
allyally
hungry,
hungry,andand in fact
in fact
when when couldn’t
she she couldn’tbe hungry,
be hungry, as when
as when the the
craving
craving hit her
hit her
right right
afterafter
a meal—
a meal—the the
certainty
certaintythatthat she she
would wouldcavecave
in toin the
to theimpulse
impulse left left
her her
embarrassed.
embarrassed. Thus, Thus,
the thewrappers
wrappers stashed
stashed
underunderthe the
bed.bed.
Bradley’s
Bradley’s relationship
relationship to food
to food waswas compelling,
compelling, too,too,for for howhow it it
changed
changed overover
time. time.
Where,
Where, as aasyoung
a young
girl,girl,
eating
eating
could could
be pure
be purejoy— joy—
“I’d “I’
dod adolittle
a little
shake shakewhen when I ate”—
I ate”—
a darkness
a darkness hadhad set insetby in theby the
timetime
she she
entered
enteredhighhighschool.
school.
SheShe noticed
noticed
howhow oftenoften
she sheate when
ate when she she
felt felt
troubled.
troubled. SheShebegan beganto use
to use
foodfood
to deal
to deal
withwith
issues,
issues,
like,like,
as theas the
secondsecond
oldest
oldest
child,child,
not notgetting
gettingthe the
kindkind
of attention
of attention she sheneededneeded from fromher her
parents.
parents. SheShehadhad asthmaasthma so severe
so severethatthat
walking
walkingtoo too fastfast
would wouldcause cause
her her
to gasp,
to gasp, meaning
meaning exercise
exercisewaswas out.out.
HerHer weight
weight edged edged up upandand
down,down,but buteventually
eventually reached
reached 250250pounds
pounds at age
at age
sixteen.
sixteen.On On her her
five-five-
foot,foot,
six-six-
inchinchframe,frame,thisthis
pushed
pushedher her
beyond
beyond the the
plusplus sizessizesin cloth-
in cloth-
ing.ing.
Food Food waswasby noby means
no means the the
onlyonly
challenge
challenge in Bradley’s
in Bradley’s life.life.
SheShehadhad
dyslexia,
dyslexia, whichwhichmade made schoolschool
more more
difficult.
difficult.
HerHerfamily familylanded landedin ain a
shelter
shelter
for afortime.
a time.Bradley
Bradleyhadhadboutsbouts
of depression
of depression andand loneliness,
loneliness, andand
when whenher herfamily
familymoved moved to atonewa newneighborhood,
neighborhood, she shefiercely
fiercelymissedmissed
the the
friends
friendsshe’dshe’
spent
d spentsummers
summers withwithout out
on the
on the
streets,
streets,
eating eating
icesices
andand splashing
splashing in thein thewaterwater
when whenthe the
firefighters
firefightersopened opened a hydrant.
a hydrant.
Yet Yet
she shetoughed
toughed it allit out,
all out,
or maybe
or maybe thosethose
werewerethe thethingsthingsthatthat
made made
her her
tough.tough.LifeLife
hadn’thadn’t
been been
easyeasy
for for
her her
thusthus
far, far,
but but the thedayday came came
when whenshe shegot got
the the
chancechance to settle
to settle
a score.
a score.
TheThe Bradley
Bradleyfamilyfamilywaswas friendly
friendly
withwithan attorney
an attorney named named Samuel
Samuel
Hirsch,
Hirsch, no stranger
no stranger himself
himselfto the
to the
borough’s
borough’s grit.grit.
Born Bornin 1946
in 1946in an in an
Austrian
Austrian camp campfor people
for people displaced
displacedby World
by World WarWar II, heII,moved
he moved withwith
his his
familyfamilyto Brooklyn,
to Brooklyn, workedworked his his
wayway through
through law law school,
school, wonwon a a
seatseat
in thein the
statestate
assembly,
assembly, joined
joined
a 1978
a 1978
melee melee
overoverthe thefatalfatal
stabbing
stabbing

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xiv xiv
PRO
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of aofJewish
a Jewish manman andand got gotarrested
arrestedfor for
punching
punching a cop a cop
(which
(whichhe de-he de-
nied,
nied,
andand the thecasecase waswas dismissed),
dismissed), ekedekedout outa criminal
a criminal practice
practicede- de-
fending
fendingmembers
members of theof the
Mafia,
Mafia,andand shifted
shifted
gearsgears
to bring
to bring
civilcivil
lawsuits
lawsuits
on behalf
on behalf of people
of people whowho got got
hurt. hurt.
He He represented
represented BradleyBradleyandand several
several
of herof her
siblings
siblingsin aincase
a case
thatthat
stemmed
stemmed from fromthe theleadleadpaintpaintin their
in their
home.home. TheThe legallegal
claim
claimwaswastak-tak-
ing ing
years years
to resolve,
to resolve, andand HirschHirschvisited
visited
the thefamilyfamily withwith
some some fre-fre-
quency,
quency, eveneven bringing
bringing giftsgifts
on on Christmas.
Christmas. In 2002,
In 2002, Hirsch
Hirschasked asked
Bradley,
Bradley,thenthen in her in her
seniorsenior
yearyearof high
of high
school,
school,if sheif she
wouldwouldjoinjoin
himhim
in aindifferent
a different sortsort of injury
of injurycase.case.
He He waswas suing suing
McDonald’s
McDonald’s for for
ruin- ruin-
ing ing
people’s
people’shealth—health— not notby accident
by accident or contamination,
or contamination, but but
through
through
the the
veryverydesigndesign of itsofproducts.
its products.
ThisThiswould would be abemuch a much harderharderfightfight
thanthan the theleadleadsuit,suit,
withwith lessless
chance
chanceof success,
of success, he knew,
he knew, starting
starting
withwiththe the
factfactthatthathe had
he hadno ex-no ex-
perience
perience in this
in thistypetype of claim.
of claim. ButButthenthenagain,again,
nobodynobody did.did.
TheTheclos- clos-
est est
thingthing up up until untilthatthat pointpointhadhad been beena casea case brought
brought against
against
McDonald’s
McDonald’s for surreptitiously
for surreptitiously cooking
cooking its fries
its fries
in beef
in beef
fat, fat,
whichwhich the the
company
company settled
settlednot not withwitha big a big
payout
payoutto theto the
plaintiff,
plaintiff,
but but
by donat-
by donat-
ing ing
$10$10 million
million to Hindu
to Hindu andand vegetarian
vegetarian groups.
groups. Hirsch,
Hirsch,
however,
however,
waswas
convinced
convinced thatthat a casea case
against
against
McDonald’s
McDonald’s on health
on health grounds
grounds waswas
potentially
potentially stronger,
stronger, couldcouldpossibly
possiblybe lucrative,
be lucrative, andand wouldwould be sig-
be sig-
nificant
nificantfor for
everyone,
everyone, given given
the the
painpainandand suffering
suffering beingbeing
caused
caused by by
the the
modernmodern diet.diet.
An An analysis
analysis from fromthe the
U.S.U.S.surgeon
surgeon general,
general,which which Hirsch
Hirschcitedcited
in in
his his
court court
papers,
papers, estimated
estimated thatthatobesity
obesity
alone alone
causedcausedthreethree
hundred
hundred
thousand
thousand premature
premature deaths
deathseacheach year.year.
Hirsch
Hirsch quotedquoted himhim as well
as well
in in
warning
warning thatthat
America’s
America’s eatingeating
habitshabits
“may “maysoon soon
cause cause
as much
as much pre-pre-
ventable
ventable disease
disease andand deathdeath
as cigarette
as cigarette smoking,
smoking, ” with” with
heartheart
disease,
disease,
typetype
2 diabetes,
2 diabetes, several
severaltypestypesof cancer,
of cancer, andand musculoskeletal
musculoskeletal disor-disor-
dersders
including
including osteoarthritis
osteoarthritis of the
of theknee knee
all linked
all linked to excessive
to excessive andand
unhealthy
unhealthy eating.
eating.Even Even
the the
economy
economy waswas takingtakinga hit,a hit,
Hirsch
Hirschnoted.noted.
TheTheannual
annualbill bill
for for
obesityobesity
hadhad been been
calculated
calculated to be to $117
be $117billion
billion
in in
medical
medical expenses
expenses andand lostlost
wages,wages,
partpart
of theof the
hiddenhidden costcost
passed
passed
on to on to
consumers
consumers by theby themanufacturers
manufacturers of fast
of fast
andand heavily
heavilyprocessed
processed food. food.

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Jazlyn Jazlyn
Bradley
Bradley hadhad not not
been been
Hirsch’s
Hirsch’s
firstfirst
choicechoiceas aasplaintiff
a plaintiff
for for
his attack
his attack on McDonald’s.
on McDonald’s. He had He had initially
initially
filedfiled
the the
complaint
complaint on be-
on be-
halfhalf
of aof 272-
a 272-
pound pound maintenance
maintenance supervisor
supervisor from from
Queens Queenswhowho lived lived
on fast
on fastfood.food.
No No oneone couldcouldargue argue
thatthat
the the
man, man,CaesarCaesar Barber,
Barber,
wasn’twasn’t
suffering
suffering from fromhis weight.
his weight. He’dHe’ had
d had
a pair
a pair
of heart
of heartattacks
attacks
already.
already.ButBut
Barber
Barber waswas fifty- fifty-
six six
years years
old,old, andand when whenhe blamed
he blamed his his
troubles
troubleson on
his regimen
his regimen of burgers
of burgers andandfries, fries,
he was
he wasan easy
an easytargettarget
for the
for the
tabloids
tabloids
andand the the
foodfood industry.
industry. “Fast“Fast
Food FoodFattyFatty
HasHas Legal Legal
Beef, Beef,
” read
” read
oneone of of
the the
headlines.
headlines. Even Even
his his
sympathizers
sympathizers pointed
pointed out outthatthata mana manof his
of his
age age
hadhad to take
to take some some
ownership
ownership of the
of the
choices
choiceshe’dhe’ made
d made in life.
in life.
Dur- Dur-
ing ing
an appearance
an appearance on Good
on Good Morning
Morning America,
America, the the
hosthost pressed,
pressed,
“Mr.“Mr.
Barber,
Barber, youyou hadhad twotwo heart heart
attacks,
attacks,
andand youryour ownown doctordoctor
toldtold
you,you,
‘Don’t
‘Don’teat fast
eat fastfood, food,
’ but’ but
youyou keptkepton eating
on eating it. . it.
. . Aren’t
. . . Aren’t
youyourespon-
respon-
siblesible
for this?”
for this?”
“Part “Part
of it,ofyes,
it, yes,
I amI am responsible,
responsible, ” Barber
” Barber replied,
replied,immediately
immediately put-put-
tingting
himself
himself in ainhole. a hole.
“But“ButI amI am saying,
saying,the thepartpartthatthattheythey
never
neverex- ex-
plained
plained to meto me waswas what what
I was I was
eating,
eating,
whywhy theythey hadhad so much
so muchsodium,
sodium,
so much
so much fat content,
fat content, so much
so much sugar.
sugar.
I didn’t
I didn’tknow knowthat,that,
andand
it wasn’t
it wasn’t
seenseenwhen whenyouyou went went
intointo
the therestaurant.
restaurant. There Therewaswas no alternative,
no alternative, so so
I ateI it.
ate” it.”
Barber Barberhadhad a point,
a point,to betosure.
be sure.
In aIn fewa few
years,years,
NewNew YorkYorkCityCity
would would
try to
tryhelp
to helppeoplepeople be more
be more aware aware
of what
of whattheythey werewere eatingeating
by requir-
by requir-
ing ing
restaurants
restaurants to divulge
to divulgethe thecalories
calories
in their
in theirproducts,
products, andandMcDon-
McDon-
ald’sald’s
itselfitself
began began selling
selling
saladssaladsas anas alternative
an alternative to burgers
to burgers andandfries.
fries.
ButButBarberBarbercouldn’t
couldn’t get past
get pastthe the
mattermatter
of personal
of personal responsibility
responsibility andand
the the
casecase waswasfoundering
foundering when when Hirsch
Hirschgot got
a calla call
from from
JohnJohnBanzhaf,
Banzhaf, a a
Washington
Washington lawyer lawyerandand something
something of aofgiant
a giantslayer.
slayer.
A few A few
years
years
ear-ear-
lier,lier,
in 1997,
in 1997, BanzhafBanzhaf hadhad helpedhelpedengineer
engineer the thelegallegalassault
assaultthatthat
brought
brought the the
tobaccotobacco industry
industry to its
toknees.
its knees.Rather Ratherthanthan relying
relying
on in-on in-
dividuals
dividuals to sueto sue the thecigarette
cigarette manufacturers
manufacturers for fordamaging
damaging their their
health,
health,the the
newnew strategy
strategy
involved
involved states
states
bringing
bringing lawsuits
lawsuitsagainst
against
the the
manufacturers
manufacturers for forwrecking
wrecking the thebudgets
budgets of theof thehealthhealthagencies
agenciesthatthat
hadhad to care
to care
for forall theall the
sicksick
smokers.
smokers. ThisThiswaswas a stroke
a stroke of genius
of geniusthatthat
framed
framed the theissue issuein dollars
in dollars andand cents cents
insteadinstead of individual
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judgments,
judgments, andand in 1998,
in 1998,
the the
tobacco
tobacco companies
companies caved.caved.
They Theyagreedagreed
to curtail
to curtail
their their
worst worst
marketing
marketing practices
practicesandand spendspend$246 $246
billion
billion
on on
measures
measures to counteract
to counteract the the
medical
medicalharm harmtheythey
hadhad done. done.
Encouraged
Encouraged by that
by that
success,
success,Banzhaf
Banzhaf andandother other
tort-tort-
minded
minded law-law-
yersyers
hadhad been been
eyeingeyeingthe the
$1.5$1.5trillion
trillion
processed
processed foodfood industry
industry as as
their
their
nextnext
big big
targettarget
whenwhen Hirsch
Hirschbrought
brought his his
casecaseon behalf
on behalf of Bar-of Bar-
ber ber
andandgot got
hit byhit the
by the
media
media backlash.
backlash. When When theytheyspoke,spoke,
Banzhaf
Banzhaf’s ’s
advice
advice
to Hirsch
to Hirsch waswas blunt:
blunt:FindFind a new a newclient.
client.
GetGet someone
someone whowho
could
could
not not
be flatly
be flatlydismissed
dismissed for for
havinghavingmade made badbad decisions
decisions in life.
in life.
Someone
Someone whowho waswas not not
in full
in full
control
controlof their
of their
foodfoodchoices.
choices.
Someone
Someone
who,who,
frankly,
frankly,waswas a lota younger
lot younger thanthanthe the
middle-
middle-
agedaged maintenance
maintenance
man.man.
“If you
“If you
want want
to establish
to establish a newa newlegallegal
principle,
principle,youyouwant want
to getto get
the the
strongest
strongest possible
possiblecasecaseyouyou can,can, andand you’ll
you’ll
probably
probably be much
be much
moremoresuccessful
successful if youif you
bringbringoneone on on behalf
behalf
of kids,
of kids,
” Banzhaf
” Banzhaf toldtold
Hirsch.
Hirsch.“The “The
juryjury
is going
is going
to betomuch
be much more more
sympathetic
sympathetic to an toeight-
an eight-
year-
year-
old old
who’s who’s
obeseobesethanthan
a fifty-
a fifty-
six-six-
year- year-
old old
who’swho’sobese.
obese.
” That” Thatwaswas
whenwhenHirsch
Hirschthought
thought of the
of the
girl girl
from from
his lead-
his lead-
paintpaint
case.case.
Bradley’s
Bradley’sfamilyfamilyinitially
initially
wavered
wavered when when Hirsch
Hirschasked asked
her herto join
to join
his his
cause.
cause.
McDonald’s
McDonald’s waswas surging
surging pastpast$15$15 billion
billion
in sales
in sales from from
moremorethanthan31,000
31,000outlets
outlets
in more
in more thanthan100100 countries.
countries. “This“This
is a isbig
a big
company,
company,” her ” her
mothermother warned.
warned. “They’re
“They’re likelike
partpartof theof the
fast-fast-
foodfood
mafia.
mafia.
YouYou really
really
want want
to goto after
go afterthem?”them?” Jazlyn
Jazlyn
worried,
worried, too,too,
about about
the the
consequences
consequences on heron her
day-day-
to-day
to-daylife.life.
“I eat
“I eat
there there
everyeveryday,day,
” she” she
reminded
reminded herself.
herself.
SheShehadhadvisions
visions
of walking
of walking intointo
a McDonald’s
a McDonald’s afterafter
the the
lawsuit
lawsuit
got gotfiledfiled
onlyonly
to have
to havethe the
workers
workers andand patrons
patrons alikealike
fall fall
silent
silent
andandstare,stare,
recognizing
recognizing her her
as theas the
girl girl
whowho wantedwanted to take
to takeaway away
their
their
jobsjobs
andand charms
charms likelike
the theMcFlurry.
McFlurry. SheShehadhad the the
sensesense
from fromher her
ownownexperience
experience thatthat
many manyof theof the
customers
customers werewereemotionally
emotionally bound bound
to McDonald’s.
to McDonald’s. ThatThattheythey
werewere buying
buyingcomfort
comfort as much
as much as food,
as food,andand
thatthat
she’dshe’
bed seen
be seenas picking
as picking on the
on thepoor,poor,the the
lonely,
lonely,
the the
depressed.
depressed.
“They’re
“They’rehome homelooking
lookingat the
at the
TV,”TV,she” she
said.said.
“They’re
“They’re wanting
wanting what’swhat’s
being
being
advertised.
advertised. They They
get get
up and
up andgo getgo get
that.that.
” ”
Then,Then,
oneone afternoon,
afternoon, Bradley
Bradley hadhad a moment
a moment of painful
of painful clarity
clarity
as as

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she she
watched
watched the thetalktalkshow show Maury,
Maury,whichwhich aired aired
a segment
a segment on over-
on over-
weight
weightchildren.
children.
Bradley
Bradley suddenly
suddenly realized
realized thatthat
she she
wasn’t
wasn’talonealonein this.
in this.
OtherOtherkids,kids,
from from
other otherplaces
places
andand backgrounds,
backgrounds, werewere suffering
sufferingbecause
because of their
of their
relationship
relationship withwith food. food.By By oneone count,
count,three threemillion
millionnewnew casescases
of of
childhood
childhood obesity
obesityarose arose
eacheach year,year,
withwith the thechildren
children encountering
encountering
ailments
ailments thatthat
usedused to beset
to beset onlyonly
adults:
adults:
highhigh bloodblood pressure,
pressure, osteo-
osteo-
arthritis,
arthritis,the the
scarring
scarring of organs.
of organs. Thirteen-
Thirteen-year- year-
old old
heartshearts
lookedlooked
likelike
theythey
belonged
belonged to fifty-
to fifty-
year- year-
old old
men. men.
ButButwhat what
hit Bradley
hit Bradley the the
hardest
hardest
waswasthe thevideo video
clipsclips
of obese
of obese kidskids
as they
as theyate;ate;that,that,
she she
realized,
realized,
waswas
howhow she shemust must
looklook to others.
to others.
“There
“There waswasa boy, a boy,
sitting
sitting
at aat table
a table
stuffing
stuffinghis face,
his face,
justjust
stuffing
stuffing
his his
face,face,
” she ” she
said.said.
“And “Andmy my littlelittle
brother
brothersaid,said,
‘He’s‘He’s
madmad fat. fat.
All All
he does
he does
is eat
is eat
burgers.
burgers. Nothin’
Nothin’ else.else.
’ And’ And
youyou know knowhowhow youyou get get
a light
a light
thatthat
goesgoes
snap? snap?‘That’s
‘That’s
you,you,
’ it said
’ it said
to me.
to me.
I’m I’m
a fata kid
fat kid
andand all Iall
doI isdoeat.
is eat.
I I
didn’t
didn’t
justjust
sit there
sit thereandand eat everything
eat everything all atallonce.
at once.ButButit reminded
it reminded me me
of myself,
of myself, andand I said,
I said,
‘You‘You know, know,
let me
let mesee seeif I ifcould
I couldat least
at least
helphelp
somebody
somebody elseelse
out.out.
’ ” Turning
’ ” Turning off the
off the
TV,TV, she shewaswasnownow ableable
to see
to see
the the
lawsuit
lawsuitlikelikeHirsch
Hirsch did:did:not not onlyonly
as aasbiga big
payout,
payout,but butas aascause,
a cause,
andand
oneonethatthatwent went
beyond beyond herself.
herself.
Hirsch
Hirsch refiled
refiled
the thecasecase against
against
McDonald’s
McDonald’s on August
on August 22, 22,
2002,2002,
withwithBradley
Bradley andand another
another teenager
teenageras plaintiffs.
as plaintiffs. TheThe complaint
complaint al- al-
legedleged
thatthatMcDonald’s
McDonald’s hadhad been been
unfair
unfair
andand deceptive
deceptive in selling
in selling
prod- prod-
uctsucts
thatthatwerewere highhigh in salt,
in salt,
sugar,
sugar,
fat, fat,
andand cholesterol,
cholesterol, because
becauseit had
it had
failed
failed
to tell
to tell
its customers
its customers howhow much muchof these
of these additives
additives theytheywerewere
getting.
getting.At the At the
time—time— andand thisthis
waswasthe the
norm norm for for
most mostof the
of the
restau-
restau-
rantrant
industry—
industry— therethere
werewere no packaging
no packaging labelslabels
or store
or storedisplays
displaysthatthat
boreborethisthisinformation,
information, as there
as there werewerefor for
groceries.
groceries. TheThe lawsuit
lawsuitalsoalso
argued
argued thatthat McDonald’s
McDonald’s hadhad failed
failed
its customers
its customers by notby notwarning
warning
them themthatthateating
eatingproducts
products so high
so highin salt,
in salt,
sugar, sugar,
fat, fat,
andand cholesterol
cholesterol
couldcould
leadlead to the
to the
many many healthhealth
problems
problems cited cited
by theby the
surgeon
surgeon general.
general.
It further
It further alleged
allegedthatthatMcDonald’s
McDonald’s hadhadlured lured
children
children to eat
to its
eatprod-
its prod-
uctsucts
throughthrough fraudulent
fraudulent marketing
marketing thatthat
presented
presented them them
as nutritious.
as nutritious.

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McDonald’s
McDonald’s denieddenied eacheachof the of theallegations,
allegations, saidsaidit would
it would defenddefend
itself
itself
vigorously,
vigorously, andand marshaled
marshaled a team a team
of lawyers
of lawyersto refute
to refute
the the
claims.
claims.
“We“We feelfeelstrongly
strongly thatthat thisthis
lawsuit
lawsuit has has no no merit,
merit,
” the” thecompany’s
company’s
spokesman,
spokesman, WaltWalt
Riker, Riker,
said.said.
“However,
“However, the the
factsfacts
about about
ourour food,food,
ourour
values
valuesandand ourourcommitment
commitment to nutrition
to nutrition leadership
leadership are are
far more
far more im-im-
portant.
portant. It isItimportant
is important to note
to note thatthatthe the vastvastmajority
majority of nutrition
of nutrition
professionals
professionals say say
thatthatMcDonald’s
McDonald’s foodfoodcancan be part
be partof aofhealthful
a healthful dietdiet
basedbased
on theon thesoundsound nutrition
nutrition principles
principles of balance,
of balance, variety
varietyandandmod- mod-
eration.
eration.
” ”
As Banzhaf
As Banzhaf anticipated,
anticipated, the the
media mediatreatedtreated
the the
child child
plaintiffs
plaintiffs
gen-gen-
tly. tly.
TheThe reporting
reporting focused
focused on theon theenticements
enticements to eatto eat
at McDonald’s,
at McDonald’s,
whichwhichwent went
beyond
beyond the the
foodfood
andand might mightcloud cloud
a child’s
a child’s
thinking
thinking about about
nutrition.
nutrition. “She“She
liked liked
the theprizes, ” a New
prizes, ” a New YorkYorkTimes Timesreporter
reporter wrotewroteof of
Bradley’s
Bradley’s co-plaintiff.
co-plaintiff. Still,Still,
some somein thein the
media mediaasked:
asked:Weren’t
Weren’t the the
kidskids
partly
partly
responsible?
responsible? Hadn’tHadn’tthey,they,
likelikeBarber,
Barber,playedplayedat least
at least
some somerolerole
in deciding
in deciding to eat
to eat
at McDonald’s?
at McDonald’s? AndAnd speaking
speaking of decisions,
of decisions, where where
werewerethe theparents
parentswhen when the the
children’s
children’s weight weightbeganbegan to climb?
to climb? Brad- Brad-
ley’sley’s
father fathergavegavea statement
a statement to theto thecourt court
sayingsaying he had
he had thought
thought
McDonald’s
McDonald’s foodfoodwaswas healthy,
healthy,
which whichmaymay not not
havehave sounded
sounded credible.
credible.
It was
It was
2002,2002,a year
a year
afterafter
the the
publication
publication of Eric
of Eric
Schlosser’s
Schlosser’s bestselling
bestselling
exposé
exposé FastFastFood FoodNation:
Nation: TheThe Dark Dark
SideSide of theof the
All-All-
American
American Meal, Meal,
whichwhich brought
broughtsignificant
significant mainstream
mainstream attention
attention to theto the
ills ills
of aofdieta diet
heavyheavyin burgers,
in burgers, pizza,pizza,
andandfries.fries.
ThisThis time, time,
however,
however, HirschHirschwaswas prepared
prepared for the
for the
pushback
pushback on per-
on per-
sonalsonal
responsibility.
responsibility. In refiling
In refilinghis hislawsuit,
lawsuit, he’dhe’included
d included a linea line
of at-
of at-
tacktack
thatthathadn’thadn’t
been been
in thein the
original
originalclaim. claim.
TheThe ideaideacame camestraight
straight
from fromthe thetobacco-
tobacco- casecase playbook.
playbook. It argued
It argued thatthatpeoplepeoplewhowho ate ate
at at
McDonald’s,
McDonald’s, likelike
those thosewhowho smokedsmoked cigarettes,
cigarettes,werewere hampered
hampered in in
theirtheir
decision
decision making.
making. They They
didn’t didn’t
havehave full full
control
controlin evaluating
in evaluating the the
risks—
risks—in saying
in sayingno to noanother
to another bitebiteor sip—
or sip— because
becausetherethere
waswas more more
to to
the the
product
product thanthan
metmet the theeye.eye.
OneOne of theof the
defining
defining moments
moments in thein thelegallegal
fightfight
withwiththe thetobacco
tobacco
manufacturers
manufacturers came camewhen when
smoking
smoking waswas deemed
deemed an addiction.
an addiction. ThisThis
waswasa shifta shift
thatthat
the thecigarette
cigarette
industry
industry hadhad fiercely
fiercely
contested
contested andand thatthat

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eveneventhe the
publicpublicwaswas slowslowto accept.
to accept. Addiction
Addiction waswas a term a term previously
previously
reserved
reservedfor illegal
for illegaldrugs drugs
andand for alcohol.
for alcohol.
ButBut onceonce the theideaideatooktookholdhold
thatthat
cigarettes
cigarettes could coulddefeat
defeat
the the mostmostdogged
dogged efforts
efforts
to quitto quitsmoking,
smoking,
juries
juries
beganbeganto believe
to believethatthatsmokingsmoking couldcould
alsoalso
be addictive,
be addictive, andandthisthis
effectively
effectivelyturnedturned them themagainstagainst the the
tobacco
tobacco manufacturers.
manufacturers. Addic-
Addic-
tiontion
meant
meant thatthat
smokers
smokers could couldnot not
be entirely
be entirelyblamedblamed when when theythey
got got
lunglungcancer.
cancer.
TheThe companies
companies deserved
deservedto betoheld
be heldliable,liable,
too.too.
HirschHirschwaswas nownow makingmaking the the samesameboldbold
casecasefor for
food. food.
Overeating
Overeating
waswasnot not
justjust
a matter
a matter of personal
of personal choice,
choice,
he argued.
he argued. There Therewerewerehid-hid-
dendenandand powerful
powerful influences
influences thatthat
couldcould
causecause
peoplepeople to lose
to lose
control.
control.
People
People
mightmight thinkthink
theytheywerewere makingmakingdecisions
decisions of their
of theirownown volition,
volition,
but,but,
in fact,
in fact,
theythey werewerebeing beingcoaxed,coaxed,
guided,
guided,andand pulled pulledby invisible
by invisible
forces.
forces.
Hirsch’s
Hirsch’s claim claim
on behalf
on behalf of Bradley
of Bradley andand the the
other otherchildren
children
al- al-
legedleged
thatthat
McDonald’s
McDonald’s soldsold products
productsthatthat
weren’t
weren’t justjust highhighin salt,
in salt,
sugar,
sugar,
fat, fat,
andand cholesterol.
cholesterol. They Theywerewere
alsoalso
“physically
“physically or psychologi-
or psychologi-
callycally
addictive
addictive and/or
and/or addictive
addictive in nature.
in nature.
” ”
That’sThat’s
all Hirsch
all Hirsch saidsaid
about about addiction
addictionin thein the
complaint.
complaint. He Heknew knew
thisthis
couldcould
prove prove
to be tothe
be the
strongest
strongestof his
of his
assertions,
assertions, but buthe didn’t
he didn’t
as as
yet yet
havehaveanyany more moreto sayto say
until until
the the
discovery
discovery phase,phase, when when he could
he could
flushflush
out out
some someconcrete
concrete facts. facts.
TheThemedia,
media,as aasresult,
a result,paidpaid almost
almost
no no
attention
attentionto this
to this
aspectaspect
of theof thelawsuit.
lawsuit.
ButButthe the
federal
federal judge judge
whowho got got
the the
casecase
waswasdeeply deeplyintrigued,
intrigued, andand he labored
he labored to figure
to figure out outjustjust
where where
Hirsch
Hirsch
intended
intended to go towith
go with thisthisclaim.
claim.
Judge Judge
Robert
Robert Sweet Sweet
waswas known knownfor for
speaking
speaking his his mind. mind. Most Most
no-no-
tably,
tably,
he had
he had snubbed
snubbed judicial
judicial reserve
reserve
by openly
by openly calling callingfor for
the the
re- re-
pealpealof drug
of drug lawslaws andand their their
harsh harsh
sentencing
sentencing guidelines,
guidelines, including
including
thosethose
banning
banning crack crack
cocaine
cocaine andand heroin,
heroin,sayingsaying thatthat “the“the warwaron on
drugsdrugs
is bankrupt.
is bankrupt. ” In”an In early
an early ruling
ruling
on Hirsch’s
on Hirsch’s lawsuit,
lawsuit,he seemed
he seemed
to beto equally
be equally sickened
sickened by what
by what could
could
be viewed
be viewed as the as thefast-fast-
foodfoodin- in-
dustry’s
dustry’s
warwaron health.
on health. TheThe judge judge
pokedpoked
andand prodded
prodded withwith a string
a string
of of
provocative
provocative questions
questions thatthatwent went
wellwell
beyond
beyond the the
reach reachof current
of currentsci-sci-
enceenceor law.
or law.
ButBut theytheyreflected
reflected the the
scopescope
of what
of what many many peoplepeople
werewere
starting
starting
to ask
to ask
in their
in their
scrutiny
scrutiny of fast
of fast
food,food,
as well
as wellas muchas much of what’s
of what’s
soldsold
in the
in the
grocery
grocery store.
store.
These Thesesame same
questions
questions would would go on go to
onhelp
to help

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set set
thesettheagenda
theagendaagendafor for investigations
forinvestigations
investigations intointo the
intothe
habit-
thehabit-
forming
habit- forming
formingnature nature of ofof
nature
modern
modern
modern food— food— via researchers
food— viaviaresearchers
researchers andand scientists,
andscientists, ethicists
scientists, ethicists
andand
ethicists therapists,
andtherapists,
therapists,
school
school lunch
school lunch providers
lunch providers
providersandand lobbyists,
andlobbyists,
lobbyists,farmers
farmers andand
farmers entrepreneurs,
andentrepreneurs,
entrepreneurs,
andandthis
andthisvery
thisvery book.
verybook. book.
In the InInthe
case
thecase of
caseMcDonald’s,
ofofMcDonald’s,
McDonald’s, the thejudge
thejudge asked,
judge asked,
what
asked, whatwaswas
what itwas
about
it itabout
the the
about the
restaurant
restaurant
restaurant chain’s chain’s products
chain’s products
productsthatthatcould
thatcould make
could makethem
make themaddictive?
them addictive?
addictive? WasWas itWasit it
some some combination
some combination
combination of theofofthe
sugars
thesugarsandand
sugars fats,
andfats,
or was
fats,ororwas
there
wasthere “some
there “some other
“some other
other
additive,
additive, thatthat
additive, works
thatworks in the
works ininthe
same
thesame manner
same manner
manneras nicotine
asasnicotine in cigarettes,
nicotine inincigarettes, to toto
cigarettes,
induce
induce addiction?”
induce addiction?”
addiction?” How Howmuch
How muchof McDonald’s
much ofofMcDonald’s
McDonald’s did did
one
didone
need
oneneed to eat
need totofor
eateatforfor
the the
food
thefood to become
food totobecomebecomeaddictive?
addictive?
addictive?DidDid the
Didthe
addiction
theaddiction set in
addiction setset
immediately,
ininimmediately,
immediately,
or did
orordid
itdid
takeit ittake
time?
taketime? Were
time? Were kidskids
Were more
kidsmore vulnerable
more vulnerable thanthan
vulnerable adults?
thanadults? AndAnd
adults? what
Andwhat what
aboutabout the the
about company’s
thecompany’s
company’s intent intentin this?
intent ininthis?
TheThe
this? judge
Thejudge observed,
judge observed,
observed,“There“There is no
“There is isnono
allegation
allegation
allegation as to asaswhether
totowhether
whether McDonald’s
McDonald’s
McDonald’s purposefully
purposefully
purposefully manufactured
manufactured
manufactured
products
products
products to have totohave these
havethese addictive
these addictive qualities.
addictive qualities.
” ””
qualities.
Judge Judge Sweet
Judge Sweet waswas
Sweet probing
wasprobing the the
probing addiction
theaddiction
addictionclaimclaimwithwith
claim suchsuch
with care,care,
such in inin
care,
part,part,
because
part, because
because the the rest
therest
ofrest
Hirsch’s
ofofHirsch’s complaint
Hirsch’s complaint
complaintwaswas hopelessly
washopelessly
hopelesslyweak. weak.As AsAs
weak.
a matter
a matter of law,
a matter ofoflaw,
the
law,the
other
theothercounts
other countsfaced
counts faced
extremely
faced extremely highhigh
extremely hurdles.
highhurdles.
hurdles.It wasIt Itwas
was
no secret
nonosecret thatthat
secret fast
thatfast
food
fastfoodwaswas
food unhealthy,
wasunhealthy,
unhealthy,the thejudge
thejudge
pointed
judge pointed
pointedout.out.In
out. fact,
InInfact,
fact,
it would
it itwouldbe hard
would bebehard to make
hard totomake the the
make case
thecase
that
casethat
any
thatany
ofany
McDonald’s
ofofMcDonald’s
McDonald’s customers
customers
customers
couldn’t
couldn’t havehave
couldn’t known
haveknown thatthat
known eating
thateatingtoo too
eating much
toomuch of this
much ofofthis
food
thisfood
would
food would be bad
would bebebad bad
for for
them,
forthem, the the
them, judge
thejudge wrote.
judge wrote.Or, Or,
wrote. inOr,
the
ininthe
case
thecase
of
casekids,
ofofkids,
thatthat
kids, they
thattheywouldn’t
theywouldn’t
wouldn’t
havehavestood
have stoodat the
stood atatthecounter
thecounter
counterwithwith a parent
with a aparentwhowho
parent knew
whoknew or should
knew ororshould havehave
should have
knownknown
knownabout about the the
about danger.
thedanger. How
danger. How could
How couldoneone
could fault
onefault
the the
fault company
thecompany
company for fornotfornot not
giving
giving people
giving people information
people information
information thatthatthey
thattheyreasonably
theyreasonably
reasonablyshouldshould already
should already pos-pos-
already pos-
sess?sess?
sess?
TheThe addiction
Theaddiction
addiction claim,claim, on the
claim, onontheother
theother hand,
other hand, waswas
hand, compelling
wascompelling
compelling for fortheforthe the
chance
chance thatthat
chance itthat
offered
it itofferedto slip
offered totoslip
past
slippast
that
pastthatreality.
thatreality.
Selling
reality. Sellingproducts
Selling products
products thatthat that
werewereaddictive
were addictive
addictive put put a put
wholly
a wholly
a whollydifferent
different spinspin
different on
spin the
ononthe
matter
thematter of informed
matter ofofinformed
informed
consent.
consent.
consent.If that If Ifthat
could
thatcould be proved,
could bebeproved, Hirsch’s
proved, Hirsch’s clients
Hirsch’s clients
would
clients would havehave
would much
have muchmuch
better
betterodds
better oddsin arguing
odds ininarguing they’
arguing they’
dthey’
been
d dbeencaught
been caught by aby
caught force
bya force
thatthat
a force they
thattheycouldn’t
theycouldn’t
couldn’t
anticipate.
anticipate.
anticipate. Unlike Unlike the the
Unlike high
thehigh loads
high loads
of sugar
loads ofofsugar andand
sugar fat
andinfatfat
fast
ininfast
food,
fastfood, the the
food, the
judgejudgewrote,
judge wrote, foodfood
wrote, thatthat
food was
thatwasaddictive
wasaddictive “does
addictive “does
not not
“does involve
notinvolve a danger
involve a adanger thatthat
danger that
is sois open
issosoopen andand
open obvious,
andobvious,
obvious,or so oror
commonly
sosocommonly
commonly well- well-
known,
well-known,
known,thatthatMcDon-
thatMcDon-
McDon-
ald’sald’s
customers
ald’scustomers
customers would would be expected
would bebeexpected
expectedto know
totoknow about
know aboutit.” it.”it.”
about

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SamSam Hirsch’s
Hirsch’s
casecase
on behalf
on behalf of Jazlyn
of JazlynBradley
Bradley
wouldwould taketakeyears
years
andand
several
several
more more
judicial
judicial
decisions
decisions to resolve,
to resolve, andandultimately
ultimately therethere
wouldwould
be nobe big
no big
payout
payout
for anyone
for anyone involved.
involved.NorNor wouldwould
HirschHirsch uncover
uncoveranyany
big big
revelations
revelations aboutabout
a secret,
a secret,compelling
compelling forceforce
in McDonald’s
in McDonald’s food.food.
TheThecompany
company staunchly
staunchly denied
denied all of
allhis
of allegations
his allegations andand thenthen
handily
handily
defended
defended itself.
itself.
ButButthe the
adjudication
adjudication hardlyhardly
mattered
mattered in the in the
end.end.
TheThe
public
public
wasn’t
wasn’t
waiting
waitingfor for
the thecourtcourt
to go to through
go through its paces.
its paces. FromFromthe the
moment
moment the the
casecasewaswas filed,
filed,
Bradley’s
Bradley’saudacious
audacious bid bid
to holdto holdMcDon-
McDon-
ald’sald’s
accountable
accountable for for
her hertroubled
troubled eatingeating
set set
in motion
in motion events
events
thatthat
wouldwouldgreatly
greatly
affect
affect
howhow we think
we think about aboutcravings,
cravings,appetite,
appetite,andandthe the
processed
processed foodfoodindustry’s
industry’s power powerto throw
to throw ourour
eating
eating
habits habits
intointo
suchsuch
disorder.
disorder.
TheThe public
publicconversation
conversation spurred
spurred by by Bradley’s
Bradley’s casecase galvanized
galvanized
thosethose
whowho soughtsoughtto prove
to prove the thebiological
biological basisbasis
for for
foodfood addiction
addiction
through
through research,
research, including
including laboratory
laboratory experiments,
experiments, thatthatexplored
explored
howhow ourour
body bodyandandmind mindresponded
responded to food.
to food.
It also
It also
sentsent the the
fast-fast-
foodfood
restaurants
restaurants andand manufacturers
manufacturers scrambling
scrambling to shield
to shield their their
products
products
from from
attack,
attack,
eveneven as they
as theysimultaneously
simultaneously maneuvered
maneuvered to position
to position
themselves
themselves to capitalize
to capitalize on our
on our growing
growing nutritional
nutritional anxieties.
anxieties.YoungYoung
Jazlyn’s
Jazlyn’s
circumstance
circumstance waswas certainly
certainly not noteveryone’s.
everyone’s. SheShe waswason the
on the
further
further
endendof theof the
spectrum
spectrum thatthat
delimits
delimits disordered
disordered eating,eating,
withwith
a a
dietdiet
exceptionally
exceptionally highhighin junk
in junk foodfood andand a severe
a severe struggle
struggle
withwith
weight.
weight.
ThereThere
are are
alsoalsosocioeconomic
socioeconomic forcesforces
at play;
at play;
it’s noit’s secret
no secret
thatthat
fast-fast-
foodfoodcompanies
companies andand the themakers
makers of processed
of processed foodfood havehave
hadhada a
disproportionate
disproportionate effecteffect
on the
on the eating
eating
habitshabits
of poor
of poorcommunities
communities of of
color,
color,
though
thoughthe the
healthhealthconsequences
consequences of bad
of baddietsdiets
havehave struck
struck
the the
wealthy,
wealthy,
too.too.Most Mostof us of are
us are
finding
findingourselves
ourselvesunsettled
unsettled by food
by foodin in
oneonewaywayor another;
or another; we’rewe’re
feeling
feeling
not not
quite quite
in control
in controlof our of our
eating,
eating,
or or
we’rewe’re
taxedtaxed
by the
by theefforteffort
it takes
it takes
to exert
to exertthatthat
control;
control; we’re we’re
anxious
anxious
thatthat
ourourappetites
appetites are are
doingdoingus more
us more harm harm
thanthangood, good,or we or sense
we sensea a
disconnect
disconnect between
between what what
we we thinkthinkwe we want want
andand what what ourour
bodies
bodies
need;need;
we’rewe’re
feeling
feeling
the the
lossloss
of theof the
beauty,
beauty,resonance,
resonance, andand rituals
rituals
of of
foodfood
as itaswas,
it was,
before
beforewe fell
we fellso hard
so hardfor forthe the
convenience
convenience andandotherother
allures
allures
of the
of the
highlyhighly
processed.
processed.

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In hisIn his
initial
initial
decision,
decision,Judge Judge
Sweet Sweet
tooktook
painspains
to note
to note some-
thatthat some-
thing
thingwaswas obviously
obviously changing
changing in American
in American consumption,
consumption, givengiven
the the
dramatic
dramatic turnturn thatthat
ouroureating
eatinghabitshabits
hadhadtakentaken
overoverthe the
course
course
of theof the
twentieth
twentieth century.
century.Despite
Despitebeing beingwidely
widely
attacked
attackedfor for
making
makingprod- prod-
uctsucts
thatthat
hadhad obvious
obvious flawsflaws
when whenit came
it came
to health
to healthandandwholesome-
wholesome-
ness,
ness,
fast-fast-
foodfoodrestaurants
restaurants andand processed
processedfoodfood
manufacturers
manufacturers seemed
seemed
to march
to march forward
forwardunscathed,
unscathed, their their
profits
profits
climbing
climbing higher
higher
yearyear
afterafter
year,year,
the thejudge judge
pointed
pointedout.out.Its companies
Its companies werewereexpanding,
expanding, goinggoing
global,
global,andand changing
changing the the
veryverynaturenature
of grocery
of grocerystoresstores
by introducing
by introducing
packaged
packaged goods goods
thatthatembraced
embraced the the
worstworst
traits
traits
of fast
of fast
food.food.
From From
farmers
farmers in Nebraska
in Nebraska whowhofilledfilled
in creeks
in creeks
to grow
to grow
more more
corncorn
for syrup,
for syrup,
cereal,
cereal,andand cattlecattle
feed; feed;
to theto theeating
eating
culture
culture
in France,
in France, wherewherethe the
number
number of cafés
of cafés
hadhad dwindled
dwindled from from
200,000
200,000afterafter
WorldWorldWarWar II toII to
justjust
40,000;
40,000;andand to theto the
waistlines
waistlines in China,
in China,wherewhere
the the
norm norm
of having
of having
too too
littlelittle
to eatto had
eat had
shifted
shifted
to eating
to eatingtoo too
much,much,no part
no partof the
of the
world’s
world’s
foodfoodeconomy
economy waswasleft left
untouched
untouched by the
by the
promotion
promotion of products
of products thatthat
werewerecheapcheapandand easy.easy.
AndAnd yet,yet,eveneven thosethose
hallmarks
hallmarks of processed
of processed food— food—
the the
lowest
lowest
prices
pricesandand the the
greatest
greatestconvenience—
convenience— didn’t
didn’t
seem seem
likelike
enough
enoughto ex-
to ex-
plain
plainthe the
industry’s
industry’s success
successto many
to many people.
people.
TheThe transformation
transformation of of
ouroureating
eatinghabitshabits
hadhad been been
so vast,
so vast,
so swift,
so swift,
andandso inexplicably
so inexplicably self-self-
destructive,
destructive, thatthatthere there
hadhad to be to more.
be more. Something
Something else,else,
andandsome- some-
thing
thingpretty
pretty
extraordinary,
extraordinary, hadhad to betobehind
be behind all that.
all that.

I came
I came
to the
to thequestion
question
of food
of food
andandaddiction
addictioninadvertently
inadvertentlywithwith
the the
20132013
publication
publicationof my
of my
book SaltSalt
book SugarSugar
Fat.Fat.
In it,
InIit,
argued
I argued
thatthat
gro-gro-
cerycery
manufacturers
manufacturers werewere
competing
competingwithwith
fast-fast-
foodfood
chains
chains
in ainrace
a race
to the
to the
bottom
bottom thatthat
rewarded
rewardedprofits
profits
overover
health.
health.
Over Over
the the
pastpast
fourfour
decades,
decades,
salt,salt,
sugar,
sugar,
andand
fat had
fat had
enabled
enabled
the the
industries
industriesto engineer
to engineer
products
products
thatthat
werewere
immensely
immensely alluring.
alluring.
Brilliant
Brilliant
marketing
marketingcam- cam-
paigns
paigns
pushed
pushedthe the
emotional
emotional
buttons
buttons
thatthat
convinced
convinced us touseat
to eat
whenwhen
we weren’t
we weren’t
evenevenhungry.
hungry.
Yet Yet
the the
bookbook
tried
tried
to end
to end
on aonhopeful
a hopeful
note.
note.
Knowing
Knowingall that
all that
the the
companies
companies did did
to prop
to propup their
up their
unwholesome
unwholesome

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products,
products, I argued,
I argued, waswas oddly oddly
empowering.
empowering. We We could could
use use
thatthat
insight
insight
to make
to make better
better
choices
choices because,
because, ultimately,
ultimately, we were
we were the the
onesonesdeciding
deciding
whatwhat
to buyto buy
andand howhow much muchto eat.
to eat.
Then Thencame came the themedia media interviews.
interviews. My My optimism
optimism waswas challenged
challenged
whenwhen reporters
reporters asked,asked, “But“But aren’taren’tthese theseproducts
products addictive,
addictive, likelike
drugs?”
drugs?” I hemmed
I hemmed andand hawed,
hawed, not not knowing
knowing the theanswer,
answer,though
though
aware
aware
thatthatthe the
implications
implications could could
be huge.
be huge. If food
If foodwaswas addictive
addictivelikelike
cocaine
cocaine andand heroin,
heroin,or even
or even likelike
cigarettes
cigarettes andand gin,gin,
thatthatwouldwouldcer-cer-
tainly
tainly
inhibit
inhibit
ourour ability
ability
to decide
to decidewhat what
to buyto buyandand howhow much muchto eat.
to eat.
No No
mattermatterhowhow much much we knew
we knew about aboutthe the
foodfood company’s
company’s machina-
machina-
tions,
tions,
their their
products
products would would stillstill
havehave the the
edge. edge.
In theIn the
worst worst
circum-
circum-
stances,
stances, we wewouldn’t
wouldn’t be deciding
be deciding anything
anything at all.at all.
TheThe companies
companies
would
wouldownown ourour choices,
choices,andand ourourfreefreewill.will.
Which,Which, as the
as theMcDonald’s
McDonald’s
casecase
suggested,
suggested, might might explain
explain whywhy we we havehave careened
careened so sharply
so sharply to- to-
wardward
their their
products.
products.
Thus,Thus,the the
initial
initial
imperative
imperative for for
thisthis book: book:
to sortto sort
out outandand sizesize
up up
the the
truetrueperilperil
in food.
in food. To seeTo seeif addiction
if addiction is theis the
bestbestwayway to think
to think
about
aboutourour trouble
trouble withwith foodfood andand eating,eating,given givenwhat what
we’ve we’ve
learned
learned
fromfrom
other other
substances
substances andand habits.
habits.AndAnd to peer
to peer insideinside
the theprocessed
processed
foodfood
industry
industry to seeto see
howhow it isitdealing
is dealing withwithwhat, what,
in itsinview,
its view,
wouldwouldbe be
a monumental
a monumental threatthreat
to theto the
powerpower it holds
it holds
overover us. us.
My My questioners,
questioners, it turns
it turns out,out,
werewere underplaying
underplaying their their
hand.hand.
NotNot
onlyonly
is food
is food
addictive.
addictive. TheThe firstfirst
partpartof this
of this
book, book, “Inside
“InsideAddiction,
Addiction,” ”
examines
examines a wealth
a wealth of surprising
of surprising evidence
evidence thatthatfood, food,
in some
in some ways, ways,
cancan
be even
be even more more
addictive
addictive thanthanalcohol,
alcohol, cigarettes,
cigarettes, andand drugs.
drugs.
ThisThis
is partly
is partly
a matter
a matter of language.
of language. ForFor centuries,
centuries, the theword addic-
word addic-
tiontion
has hasbeen been
usedused to describe
to describe ourourbehavior
behavior in consuming
in consuming all manner
all manner
of things.
of things. At times,
At times, it hasit has
been been
saddled
saddled withwith criteria
criteria
thatthatwouldwouldrulerule
out out
eveneven some some of theof the most mostpotentpotent drugs;drugs;cocaine
cocaine didn’tdidn’t
meet meetthe the
strictest
strictest
standard
standard because,
because, unlike
unlikeheroin,heroin,it doesn’t
it doesn’t leave leave
youyou writh-
writh-
ing ing
in pain
in pain when when youyou stopstop usingusing it. Today,
it. Today, however,
however, the thepurestpurest
definition—
definition— andand the theoneone we’llwe’ll
use use
in thisin this
book—book— comes comes from from
an un-an un-
impeachable
impeachable source.
source. As As a leader
a leaderin producing
in producing bothboth cigarettes
cigarettesandand
megamegabrandsbrands
of processed
of processed food, food,
the the
manufacturing
manufacturing giant giant
Philip
Philip
Mor- Mor-

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ris was,
ris was, oneone could couldargue,argue,
intimate
intimate
withwith addiction.
addiction. In 2000,
In 2000, its CEO
its CEO
waswaspressed
pressed to define
to define the the
word,
word,andand
while while
the the
contextcontextwaswas smoking,
smoking,
the the
gemgem he came
he came up with
up with could
could
apply
applyto the
to the
company’s
company’s groceries
groceries justjust
as well:
as well:“a repetitive
“a repetitive behavior
behaviorthatthat
some some
peoplepeoplefindfinddifficult
difficult
to quit.
to quit.
” ”
TheThe word wordsome somein that
in that
definition
definition
is key.
is key.
ForFor
a substance
a substance to be tocon-
be con-
sidered
sidered addictive,
addictive, we don’t
we don’tall have
all have
to fall
to fall
hardhardfor it.
forThere
it. There
are arecasual
casual
users
usersof heroin,
of heroin, andand therethere
are are
people
peoplewhowho cancan stopstop
at aathandful
a handful of of
potato
potato chips.chips.Addiction
Addiction is aisspectrum,
a spectrum, withwiththe the restrest
of us of landing
us landing
somewhere
somewhere betweenbetween being being
mildly
mildly
affected
affected
andand fullyfully
ensnared.
ensnared.
ThisThis insight
insightcomes comes from from
another
another
group groupof uniquely
of uniquely qualified
qualified ex- ex-
perts
pertswho, who,before before turning
turningtheirtheir
attention
attention to food,
to food, hadhad examined
examined
drugs
drugsandand alcohol
alcohol to help
to help
establish
establish
their their
habit-
habit-
forming
forming nature,
nature,andand
for for
me,me, thisthis
waswas the the most most
unsettling
unsettlingaspectaspect
of food
of food addiction.
addiction. I’d fo-
I’d fo-
cused
cusedmuch much of my of myrecentrecent
work work
on holding
on holding the the
processed
processed foodfood com- com-
panies
paniesaccountable
accountable for getting
for getting
us sousdependent
so dependent on their
on theirproducts.
products. Yet Yet
nownow it wasit was
clear clear
from from
thesethese
researchers
researchers thatthat
much much of theof the
explanation
explanation
for why
for why foodfoodis addictive
is addictive lies lies
entirely
entirely
withinwithin
us. Weus. Weare,are,quitequite
plainly,
plainly,
builtbuilt
thatthat
way.way.
ForFor starters,
starters,
we don’t
we don’t need need
the the
harshharsh
compounds
compounds found found
in drugs
in drugsto to
get get
hooked hooked on things.
on things. OurOur brain
brain
has has
its own
its own
slurry slurry
of chemicals
of chemicals thatthat
are are
exquisitely
exquisitely formulated
formulated to get
to get
us tous act
to act
compulsively,
compulsively, dopamine
dopamine
chief
chief
among among them. them. Indeed,
Indeed,
they’re
they’re
so good
so goodat directing
at directing ourourbehavior
behavior
thatthat
drugs drugs are aredesigned
designed to mimic
to mimic these thesenative
native substances
substances in our
in our
heads.
heads. It’s It’s
truetrue that,that,as measured
as measured by theby the
stir stir
in our in ourneurology,
neurology, not not
evenevenDoritos
Doritos Jacked Jackedcancan muster
musterthe the
depth depth
of theof the
cravings
cravings raisedraised
by, by,
say,say,
cocaine.
cocaine. ButBut oneone hallmark
hallmark of addiction
of addiction is theis the
speed speedwithwith whichwhich
substances
substances hit hit
the thebrain,brain,
andandthisthis
putsputsthe the
term fastfast
term foodfood in ainnew a new
light.
light.
Measured
Measured in milliseconds,
in milliseconds, andandthe the
powerpower to addict,
to addict, nothing
nothing is is
faster
faster
thanthan processed
processed foodfood
in rousing
in rousing the the
brain.
brain.
Addiction
Addiction is also
is also
deeplydeeply
enmeshed
enmeshed withwith
memory,
memory, andand the thememo-memo-
riesries
we create
we create for forfoodfood are are
typically
typically
stronger
stronger andand longerlongerlasting
lasting
thanthan
anyanyother other
substance.
substance. Childhood
Childhood memories
memories of food
of food cancan wieldwieldan un-
an un-
canny
canny power power overover ourour eating
eating
habits
habits
for for
the the
restrestof our
of ourlives,
lives,
andand the the

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reverse
reverse
is true,
is true,
too.too. WhenWhen a celebrated
a celebrated chefchefandand foodfoodwriter
writer
began began
losing
losing
her her
memorymemory through
through Alzheimer’s,
Alzheimer’s, it had
it had
devastating
devastatingeffects
effects
on on
her her
senses
senses andand passionpassionfor forfood. food.
In this
In thisregard,
regard,memory
memory is just
is just
as as
potent
potent
as food
as food itself itself
in forming
in forming the the
habits
habitsthatthat
cancanleadlead
to addiction.
to addiction.
Indeed,
Indeed, ourour entire entire
body—body— from from the the
nosenose to theto the
gut gut
to our
to ourbody body
fat—fat—
is designed
is designed to getto get
us notus notjustjust
to like
to like
foodfood but but
to want
to want
more moreandand
moremoreof it,ofwhich
it, which we’re we’re
learning
learning nownow from from
the the
fossilized
fossilizedbones
bones
of ourof our
prehistoric
prehistoric forebears.
forebears. We We havehave evolved
evolved in astonishing
in astonishing ways ways
to seek
to seek
out out
not not
justjustthose thosefoods foods
thatthatare are
sweet sweet
andand loadedloadedwithwithcalories
calories
but but
alsoalso
thosethosethatthatare are convenient
convenient andand varied
variedandand costcostlessless
to produce.
to produce.
We’re
We’re
hookedhooked on cheap
on cheap food, food,
a processed
a processed foodfood industry
industryofficial
official
saidsaid
to me
to meonce, once,
but butI hadn’t
I hadn’t
yet yet
realized
realizedhowhow much much of this
of this
aspect
aspect
of ad-of ad-
diction
dictionflowedflowed from fromourour ownown biology,
biology,wherewhere cheapness
cheapness translates
translates
intointo
savingsavingthe theenergy energywe need
we need to survive.
to survive.
AndAnd yet,yet, for for
all of all the
of the
insight
insightintointoourour evolutionary
evolutionary biology,
biology,the the
dietary
dietary
trouble
trouble we findwe findourselves
ourselves in today
in today cancan onlyonly
in part
in part
be put
be puton on
us. us.
None None of theof thebiologybiologythatthat
binds bindsus tousfood,
to food, not not
eveneventhe the
drive drive
to to
overeat,
overeat,
usedused to matter.
to matter.Indeed,
Indeed, for the
for the
firstfirst
fourfourmillion
millionyears
years
of ourof our
existence,
existence, it wasit wasourour addiction
addiction to food
to foodthatthat
enabled
enabled us tousthrive
to thriveas aas a
species.
species.
It’s only
It’s onlynow,now, for for
the thepastpastforty forty
years,years,
thatthat
beingbeing
hooked
hooked on on
foodfood
is causing
is causing us so usmuch
so much harm. harm. What What happened?
happened? TheThefoodfood
is what
is what
happened.
happened. Or, Or,
as one as one of the
of the
evolutionary
evolutionary biologists
biologists whowho are are
probing
probing
thisthis
aspectaspectof ourof oureating eating
habitshabits
put putit, “It’s
it, “It’s
not notso much
so much thatthat
foodfoodis is
addictive,
addictive, but butrather ratherthatthat
we by we nature
by nature are are
drawn drawn to eating,
to eating,
andand the the
companies
companies changed
changed the the
food. food.
” ”
AndAnd oh, oh,howhow theythey changed
changed the the
food. food.

In their
In their
riserise
to power,
to power,
the the
processed
processed
foodfood
companies
companies
havehave
wielded
wielded
salt,salt,
sugar,
sugar,
andand
fat not
fat not
justjust
in pursuing
in pursuing
profits
profits
through
through
the the
cheapest
cheapest
meansmeans
of production.
of production.
Theirs
Theirs
has has
beenbeen
a concerted
a concerted
effort
effort
to reach
to reach
the the
primeval
primeval
zoneszones
of our
of our
brain
brain
where
where
we act
we act
by instinct
by instinct
rather
rather
thanthan
ra- ra-
tionalization.
tionalization.

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Intuitively,
Intuitively,we likewe likesweet,
sweet,andand so they’ve
so they’ve given given
us sweet.
us sweet. TheThefoodfood
manufacturers
manufacturers havehave more more
thanthan sixtysixty
types types
of sugar
of sugarthatthat
they’ve
they’ve
addedadded
to things
to things thatthat
didn’t didn’t
usedusedto be to sweet,
be sweet, thereby
thereby creating
creating in us in the
us the
ex- ex-
pectation
pectation thatthateverything
everything shouldshould be cloying.
be cloying. We We likelikeconvenience,
convenience,
andand so they’ve
so they’ve given given
us the
us the convenience
convenience of notof notneeding
needing to cook.
to cook.
Three-
Three-fourths
fourths
of the of the
calories
calories we getwe getfrom fromgroceries
groceries nownow come comefrom from
processed
processed foodsfoodsthatthatare ready
are ready to eatto oreatready
or ready to heat.
to heat.
AndAnd sincesince
we’vewe’ve
evolved
evolved to like
to like
variety,
variety,
they’ve
they’ve given givenus theus the
illusion
illusion
of endless
of endless choice,
choice,
knowing
knowing theirtheir
salessaleswouldwould surge.surge.In theIn thetreasure
treasure trove trove
of industry
of industry
documents
documents thatthatI’veI’ve
tapped
tapped for for
thisthisbook bookis a is1980s
a 1980sresearch
research project
project
thatthat
usesuses the the
language
language of addiction
of addiction in describing
in describing the the
shoppers
shoppers most most
apt apt
to loseto lose
control:
control: “The “The
variety
variety
seekersseekershavehave consistently
consistently been been
heavyheavy
users.
users.
” ”
So muchSo much has hashappened
happened to our to our
food, food,
andand so quickly
so quickly by evolution-
by evolution-
ary ary
terms,terms,thatthat
some somescientists
scientists are are
nownow framing
framing ourour disordered
disordered eat-eat-
ing ing
as aasvast a vast
andand terrible
terrible
mismatch
mismatch withwith ourour biology—
biology— because
becauseourour
brainbrain
andand body,body,in their
in their
ability
ability
to size
to size
up andup and metabolize
metabolize the the
calories
calories
in what
in what we eatwe and
eat and drink,
drink,
justjust
haven’t
haven’t hadhadtimetime to adjust
to adjustto theto the
change
change
in our
in ourdiet.diet.
Yet Yetthe theprocessed
processed foodfoodindustry
industry hasn’thasn’tstopped
stopped there.there.
In the
In the
pastpast
fewfewyears, years,
we’vewe’ve
become become increasingly
increasingly alarmed
alarmed about aboutourour dependency
dependency
on its
onproducts.
its products. ButBut as the
as the
second secondpartpart of this
of this
book, book,“Outside
“Outside Addic-
Addic-
tion,tion,
” shows,
” shows, the the industry
industry has hasmoved moved to deny,
to deny, delay,
delay,
and,and, most most
re- re-
cently,
cently,
turnturnthisthisconcern
concern to itstoadvantage.
its advantage.
Within Within weeksweeks of Jazlyn
of JazlynBradley’s
Bradley’s casecasebeing beingfiled,
filed,
industry
industry lobby-
lobby-
ists ists
worked worked to create
to create newnew statutes
statutesthatthat would would bar bar
anyoneanyone elseelse
from from
bringing
bringing a lawsuit
a lawsuit likelike
hers,hers,
intentintenton thwarting
on thwarting the theattorneys
attorneys whowho
beatbeattobacco.
tobacco.In thisIn this
same same
vein, vein,
foodfood manufacturers
manufacturers havehave scrambled
scrambled
to control
to control the the
sciencesciencethatthat
might mightshedshed crucial
cruciallightlight
on the
on theaddictive-
addictive-
nessnessof their
of their
products,
products, goinggoing so farso faras to as halt
to haltthe the
research
research of one
of one
celebrated
celebrated scientist
scientist when whenher herresults
resultsturnedturned damning.
damning. “She“Sheis dan-
is dan-
gerous,
gerous,
” one ” one
PepsiCo
PepsiCo official
official
saidsaid
as theyas they
shutshutdown down the the
investigation.
investigation.
At the At the
same sametime, time,
the the
industry
industry has hassoughtsought to deflect
to deflectourourstruggle
struggle
to to

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regain
regain
control
control of our
of oureating.
eating.
In aInlittle-
a little-
noticed
noticed move moveon their
on their
part,part,
the the
largest
largestmanufacturers
manufacturers of processed
of processed foodfood tooktook ownership
ownership of the
of the
dieting
dieting
trade,trade,
turning
turning the themost most
popular
popular programs
programs intointo
conduits
conduitsfor for
their
their
products.
products. JunkJunk foodfood morphed
morphed intointo
junkjunk diets,
diets,
andand in anin even
an even
bolder
bolder
move, move,the the
processed
processed foodfoodindustry
industry has has
filledfilled
the the
grocery
grocery
storestore
withwith
dietdiet
foodsfoodsthatthat
are are
hardlyhardly
distinguishable
distinguishable from from
the the
regular
regular
prod-prod-
uctsucts
thatthat
got got
us into
us into
trouble
troublein the
in the
firstfirst
place.place.
Now, Now,
withwithmore moreandand more more
people
peopleunableunableto make
to make dieting
dieting
work work
for for
them,
them,
andand more moreandand more more
of usofwanting
us wanting to better
to betterourour eating
eating
habits,
habits,
these
these
manufacturers
manufacturers are competing
are competing to take
to take
ownership
ownership of these
of these
trends,
trends,
too.too.
They’re
They’re addingaddingingredients
ingredients that,that,
billed
billed
as theas the
curecureto compulsive
to compulsive
eating,
eating,
are are
no moreno more thanthanplacebos.
placebos.They’re
They’redigging
diggingintointo
ourour DNA DNA in in
hopes
hopes
of unlocking
of unlocking a genea genethatthat
cancan keepkeepourour cravings
cravingsat bay.
at bay.
They’re
They’re
alsoalso
trying
tryingto winto win
backback ourour faithfaith
in processed
in processed foodfood by tweaking
by tweaking the the
neurology
neurology of ourof our
tastetaste
buds buds
to make
to makeit okay
it okay
to crave
to cravetheirtheir
products
productsas as
muchmuchas we as do.
we do.
TheTheglobalglobal
foodfood manufacturer
manufacturer Nestlé
Nestlé
has hasbeen been
a trailblazer
a trailblazerin this
in this
turnturn
toward
toward “better”
“better” processed
processed food.food.
I wasI wasin thein theroom room whenwhen the the
company’s
company’s sixtysixtytop topproduct
product developers
developers recently
recently metmet to hash
to hash out out
waysways
to lessen
to lessen the the
mismatch
mismatch between
between some some of itsof biggest
its biggestsellers
sellers
andand
the the
biology
biology of ourof our
addiction,
addiction, andand theythey
seemedseemed astonishingly
astonishingly earnest.
earnest.
“I have
“I have
a lista of
listproducts
of products I don’t
I don’t
want want
to seeto see
on theon the
shelfshelf
anymore,
anymore,
” the” the
company’s
company’s newly newly
appointed
appointed chiefchief
technology
technology officer,
officer,
Stefan
Stefan
Catsicas,
Catsicas,
toldtold
the the
group.group.“We“We need need
to reverse
to reverseengineer
engineer thisthis
problem.
problem.” ”
In the
In the
end,end,thatthatis what
is whatthisthis
book book
is about.
is about.Only Only
here,here,
the the
aimaimis tois to
lay lay
out out
all that
all thatthe the
companies
companies havehavedone done
to exploit
to exploit ourouraddiction
addictionto to
foodfood
so that
so that
we might
we might reverse
reverse
engineer
engineer ourourdependence.
dependence. Clearly,
Clearly,
thisthis
is aisbigger
a bigger challenge
challenge thanthan I previously
I previously thought—
thought— givengivenhowhow we, we,
through
through ourour nature,
nature,cancan be unwitting
be unwitting conspirators
conspirators withwith
all that
all that
the the
industry
industrydoesdoes to control
to control ourourdecisions
decisions on what
on what to eat,
to eat,
andandhowhow much.much.
ThereThere
maymay be pitfalls
be pitfallsin framing
in framing ourour trouble
trouble withwithfoodfood
in terms
in termsof of
addiction,
addiction, given given
the the
industry’s
industry’sability
ability
to maneuver
to maneuver aroundaround suchsuch
criti-
criti-
cisms,
cisms,
but butthere there
mightmight alsoalsobe one
be one
huge huge
benefit.
benefit.Some Someof the
of the
most most

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promising
promisingstrategies
strategies
to help
to help
us regain
us regain
control
control
of our
of our
foodfood
andand
eating
eating
cancan
be found
be found
in the
in the
tactics
tactics
usedused
to fight
to fight
otherother
addictions,
addictions,
fromfrom
smok-
smok-
ing ing
to drug
to drug
abuse
abuse
to smartphones.
to smartphones. AndAndin this
in this
regard,
regard,
addiction
addiction
to to
foodfood
might
might
be more
be more
thanthan
a shared
a shared
burden;
burden;
it could
it could
be part
be part
of the
of the
pathpath
forward
forward
to atohealthier
a healthier
future.
future.

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ONE
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INSIDE
INSIDEADDICTION
ADDICTION

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