How to Grow Grapes at Home: Dummies Guide to Growing

Grapes from Seeds and Cuttings

By Oliver Ramsey
Table of Contents
Introduction
Factors to Consider When Choosing Grapes
Which Variety Grows Well for My Area?
Selecting Your Vine Location
Planning a Trellis
Preparing the Soil
Growing Grapes from Seeds
Growing Grapes from Cuttings
When to Plant
Watering Your Grapes
Training Your Grapes
Pruning Your Grapes
How to Keep Your Grapes Healthy
Now What?
Introduction
Have you longed to add the passion of growing grapes to your
list of hobbies? Does the thought of only having to walk to
your back yard to pick your own freshly-grown grapes whet
your appetite?

Are you one of the many who think that growing grapes is not
worth the effort – that it is hopeless?

Then, look no further. You stand a much better chance of

growing grapes than you think.

Through the course of this book, you will find that growing
grapes is nowhere near as difficult as you might think.
However, there are some imperative facts that you will need to
know – this book will guide you through them.

It is a learning process and you will find that, on occasions,

some of the steps may appear too time consuming and
complicated. Keep persevering – even if you mess things up a
little. Patience is a virtue – remember? This is especially true
when growing grapes.

There are several methods available to you to make life easier

and to make this particular hobby both enjoyable and exciting
– it wouldn’t be a hobby unless we could make it so, now
would it?

Once you have learned everything you need to know, you

should end up with some beautifully ripened and healthy
grapes to enjoy in your own back yard.
How much better can life get, really? You have beautiful
grapevines which provide you with gorgeous shades of green
throughout the majority of their growing season.

You get the pleasure during the summer months of watching

the grapes ripen and develop into amazing juicy bunches; and
then in the autumn, you get a wealth of autumn color to add an
ambience to your garden.

Finally, once it has finished providing you with the fruit you
were waiting for, it uncovers itself allowing for easy pruning.

What more could you ask for out of home-grown produce?

So… let’s get started. Ready? Here we go.

Factors to Consider When Choosing Grapes
Climate is only one of the factors to consider when growing
grapes. You may also wish to think about whether you want
black, green or red grapes. Or maybe your of focus is on
seedless grapes; or a choice between wine or table grapes.
You may also have a focus on a grape’s growth habits –
whether they droop or whether they grow in an upright
fashion.

These growth habits will also determine the structure used for
growing your grapes, so trellises/arbors will also be discussed.

The goal in this book is to try and discuss all of these areas, so
let’s get started.

When deciding on the variety of grape to grow, you will find

that this decision will be based on your reason for growing
grapes in the first place:

Is it with an end goal of making your own wine?

Would you rather grow grapes for the table, to be eaten at any
time during the season?

Within the world of grapes, there are two main varieties –

Hybrids varieties and European varieties.

Hybrid Varieties - This breed of grapes is known for being

extremely hardy in winter and thrive best when the growing
season is short.
European Varieties - European varieties are used (in the
main) for wine production, especially in California.

Grapes can be grown just about anywhere but if you are

looking for some easy-to-grow grapes, you need to look past
the types that your large, branded supermarkets will try to sell
you and focus on other varieties, some of which have tough
skins and/or seeds and a far more unique and distinguishing
flavor.

There are grapes out there which can be grown in a disease-

free manner (without chemical sprays) but do bear in mind
that these varieties will require more work.

You should even try and change your mindset to consuming

wine grapes as table grapes – the flavor is astounding and one
which shocks most people! This is because they have a high
sugar content with an acidic balance – making for the best
flavor possible.

We shall begin, however, with some of the more easy-to-grow

varieties and then help you on your way from that point
onwards.
Which Variety Grows Well for My Area?
One of the biggest factors for growing grapes is the climate in
which they are grown. Copious amounts of sunshine, air
circulation and warmth are paramount in helping your grapes
to achieve their maximum fruit production with minimal
amounts of fuss, trouble and diseases.

However, just living in a climate such as this isn’t always

enough. It is worth knowing that there are grape varieties
which have been bred specificially for certain climate
conditions. This section will endeavor to help you understand
that.
Beta
Species
Cross between Vitis Labrusca and Vitis Riparia

Best Climate
Northeastern U.S.

Best Use
Used for fruit, juices and jellies, but rarely for wine

Characteristics
Susceptible to black rot and disease free when rainfall is slight
Extremely winter hardy
Late ripener
Catawba
Type & Species
Red hybrid grape, Vitis Labrusca

Best Climate
Eastern U.S.

Best Use
Production of wine, jellies, jams and grape juice

Flavor
Musky or foxy

Characteristics
Late ripener
Hardy during cold winters and hot, humid summers
Susceptible to powdery mildew
Produces fairly compact and cylindrical clusters of a moderate
size
Champanel
Species
American hybrid grape

Best Climate
Midwest U.S.

Best Use
Used mainly for the production of jellies and juices

Characteristics
Hardy to -30°F
Excellent disease and drought resistance
Susceptible to downy and/or powdery mildew
Concord
Species
Vitis Labrusca

Best Climate
Northern U.S.
Pacific Northwest U.S.

Best Use
Sweet wine production
Non-alcoholic jellies and grape juice
Can also be used for table grapes
Used in the artificial coloring of candy and soft drinks due to
their deep purple color

Flavor
Distinctively foxy, smelling slightly like candied strawberries
or nail varnish

Characteristics
Excellent resistance to cold
Small vine with low-lying, but massive yielding crops
Most extensively planted variety of grape
Cynthiana
Species
Vitis Aestivalis

Best Climate
Midwest U.S.
Mid-Atlantic U.S.

Best Use
Production of dry wine

Characteristics
Hardy to -30°F
Excellent disease resistance
Susceptible to downy and/or powdery mildew
Difficult to propogate
Edelweiss
Species
Cross between Minnesota 78 and Ontario varieties

Best Climate
Midwest U.S.
Northeast U.S.

Best Use
Originally as a table grape, but experimentation led to it being
a leading wine grape
Also suitable for table jellies and grape juice

Characteristics
Early ripener
Hardy to -30°F
Excellent disease resistance
Susceptible to downy and/or powdery mildew
Large, loose clusters
Ellen Scott
Species
Cross between Armlong and Malaga varieties

Best Climate
South-Central U.S.

Best Use
Production of white wine

Characteristics
Light and fruity flavor
Lavender-colored grape
Very hardy
Early ripener
Flame
Species
Vitis Labrusca

Best Climate
Northwest U.S.
Pacific Southwest U.S.

Best Use
Table grapes due to their high natural sweetness and long
storage life
Also used in bulk-produced and blended wines

Flavor
Distinctively foxy, smelling slightly like candied strawberries
or nail varnish

Characteristics
Second most popular grape
Susceptible to powdery mildew but is normally only found on
pure vinifera grapes
Requires a long growing season
Heavy bearing grape with large clusters of sweet grapes
Keeps well in storage
Muscadine
Species
Vitis Rotundifolia

Best Climate
Deep South U.S.
Midwest U.S.

Best Use
For the production of commercial fine port and wines
Also eaten fresh and used in the production of preserves, jelly
and grape juice
Flavor
Sweet, dessert wine

Characteristics
Maintain great resistance to disease even during the wettest
weather
Prolific growers covering up to 15 to 20 feet of trellis
Beautifully aromatic carrying a scent from many yards away
Hardy to -30°F and thrive on summer heat
Susceptible to downy and/or powdery mildew
High in anti-oxidants
Pinot Noir
Species
Vitis Vinifera

Best Climate
Pacific Northwest U.S.

Best Use
Production of wine

Flavor
Distinctive strawberry and cherry aroma

Characteristics
Performs especially well in cooler regions
Can be difficult to grow due to its fragility
Tight clusters with dark purple grape bunches
Valiant
Species
Vitis Valiant

Best Climate
Northern U.S.

Best Use
Production of wine and non-alcoholic grape juice
Also good as a table grape

Characteristics
Hardy to -50°F and lower
Early ripener
Low in acid but high in sugars
Zinfandel
Species
Vitis Vinifera

Best Climate
Northwest U.S.
Pacific Southwest U.S.

Best Use
Production of dry and sweet red wines in addition to blush
versions

Flavor
Robust flavor in red wines
Semi-sweet in blush wines

Characteristics
Susceptible to powdery mildew but is normally only found on
pure vinifera grapes

There is a lot of information in the section just covered and it

is only the tip of the iceberg where grapes are concerned.
With a bit of time spent researching, the inquisitive can go a
long way in finding even more easy-to-grow varieties.

It’s now time to learn more about grape growing overall and
what methods you need to employ to ensure that you get the
best out of your vines. To this end, we will be discussing:

Selecting your vine location

Planning a trellis

Preparing the soil

Growing grapes from seeds

Growing grapes from cuttings

When to plant

Watering your grapes

Pruning your grapes

How to keep your grapes healthy

Selecting Your Vine Location
The vine location is extremely important to the production and
health of your grapes. It is best, if possible, to pick an area full
of sunshine, with excellent soil drainage and a good flow of
air.

If you don’t have an area where all three of these are available,
then choose somewhere where sun is the priority – the soil
levels can be achieved by other means.

The sun is the most important factor as, without it, the vines
will not be productive enough and the leaves won’t have a
chance to dry out after rainfall – leading to disease issues.

Soil drainage is important as low spots act as collecting points

for water (or frost) and stop the vines from thoroughly drying
out.

You should also factor in the amount of space you will need to
grow your grapes. This depends largely on the variety you
choose; and it is possible to limit your growing space if
required.

If space is a factor, then choose your grape variety wisely as

most varieties require at least four feet of space to achieve
their growth potential while some varieties can require up to
eight feet in order to achieve their maximum production of
fruit.
Planning a Trellis
Now that you have chosen the type of grape (or grapes) you
wish to grow, you need to make some decisions on the type of
trellis to use. You may wish to purchase a ready-made trellis
or arbor or design one of your own.

It needs to be sturdy with the ability to support the weight of

the grapevine when it has reached its ultimate fruiting
potential.

Initially, there are two main things to consider when choosing

an arbor or trellis:

Where the trellis will be placed in your yard

The landscape design you already have in place together with

the style of your home

One word of warning, however, beware of cheaply priced

trellises or arbors as the odds are high that they will not be
strong enough to support a vine packed with fully mature
grapes.

Many trellises are constructed over a doorway or as part of a

patio structure. They make fantastic locations due to their
convenience of being up close and personal with your growing
grapes.

If, for instance, you live in a little rustic cottage, then erecting
a metal arch-style trellis may be enough for training your
grapes over a doorway. Just ensure that the arch is tall enough
and wide enough for you and your guests to comfortably walk
through – this is especially important when the grapevine is in
full bloom and fruit-bearing.

One of the main benefits of owning a trellis is that you and

your guests can always enjoy viewing and (dare I say) tasting
the grapes you grow. However, if you plan your trellis
carefully, it can also provide a shady area for you to sit and
contemplate life in peace and quiet.

This is where a larger arbor or pergola comes in.

An arbor can be built in a simple layout with vertical supports

covered by a mass of straight or arching horizontal posts.
Your local garden center should be able to provide you with a
few self-assembly sets to choose from if you don’t wish to
design and build your own.

If you feel that a pergola is more your style, then buy one with
a flat, open top with cross bars spaced far enough apart to
allow the fruit bunches to fit through without hindrance. This
type of spacing will also ensure that you have the ability to
harvest the grapes more easily decreasing the chances of
damage to the grapes.

Putting together self-assembly pergolas is quite easy and can

be erected quite quickly.

Once the structure of your choice (trellis, arbor or pergola) has

been built and set up, it is then ready to go for your
grapevines. Now that this bit is done, let’s move onto to
purchasing your new grapevines.
Preparing the Soil
If the location you have chosen is sunny but the soil is too
heavy, a raised bed is the solution. Construct this around your
trellis and fill it with soil suitable for growing grapes. This
method will provide your grapevines with six to twelve inches
of ideal soil in which to grow before the roots then reach
earth’s native ground.

Fertilize the soil to help things along, but keep in mind the age
of the vines when adding fertilizer. For young grapes, you
may need to fertilize heavily.

For mature vines, you need to keep an eye on the nitrogen

levels as too much causes the vines to become over-vigorous
making it extremely hard to keep the vines dry, leading to
disease issues. Excessive nitrogen can also cause new
blossoms to fall off (also know as shattering). When this
happens, the result will be fewer grapes.

In addition, the variety of grape will also determine the type of

soil. Not all varieties like the same type of soil. Some prefer
fertile, sandy loam while others like a high amount of alkaline
in the soil provided.

The final thing to consider when preparing your soil is to

ensure that all surrounding plants do not obstruct the sun’s
rays provided to your new grapevines.

Now it’s time to decide how you are going to grow your
grapes:

From seed
From cuttings

From store-bought vines

Growing Grapes from Seeds
Depending on where you live, you may find that getting your
hands on cuttings is very difficult so you may be forced to
grow from seeds which have been extracted your store-bought
grapes.

If you are lucky enough to be able to purchase grape seeds

from your local garden centre, then do so.

However, do bear in mind that growing grapes from seeds is

not the best way of getting a true reproduction of the desired
grapevine. This means that if, for instance, you planted a
Catawba seed and are lucky enough to see germination, the
resulting grapevine will not have all the true Catawba
characteristics.

You will also find that growing grapes from seeds is extremely
time consuming as it can take up to three years to get results.

Another big issue is that the germination percentage rate is

very low for most varieties. This is due to the fact that a very
tough coat covers the grape seed which helps to keep it
dormant during anything but ideal conditions. It is only those
ideal conditions which allow germination.

In order to improve this percentage rate, the grape seed needs

to go through a stratification process.
Stratification of Grape Seeds
Stratification is a process by which grape seeds are treated by
a chilling process. This is essential if you wish to have any
success with growing grapes from seeds.

Once you have extracted the seeds from the original grapes (or
alternatively have purchased your grape seeds from a local
garden center), you need to put them in a layer of peat moss
(or even use dampened kitchen towels), place them in a sealed
plastic bag, and then place them in a refrigerator for a
minimum of two to three months.

The medium you have used (either peat moss or kitchen

towels) needs to be kept damp for the entire time, but do not
allow it to become soggy.

The ideal temperature within your refrigerator should be

maintained between 35°F and 40°F for the entire duration.
Even if you keep your seeds at this temperature for years, they
will not germinate and will remain dormant.
Planting Out the Seeds
When you are ready to plant the seeds, remove them from the
refrigerator (but leave them in the plastic bag) and allow them
to come to room temperature.

Once they have remained at a warmer temperature for

approximately 30 days and have begun to germinate, remove
them from the plastic bag and place them in pots of prepared
soil and place in a dry and sunny location (perhaps on a
windowsill).

Keep the soil in your pots moist but make sure you do not
overwater them. Once the seedlings have reached
approximately one to two inches high, they can be transferred
to bigger pots.

The best advice we can offer at this stage is to allow them to

grow in those pots for a solid year. Once they have reached
one year’s maturity, they can be planted outdoors.
Growing Seedless Grapes
A question that many people ask is how can they grow
seedless grapes without any seeds?

The quick answer? Grow them from cuttings instead.

Growing Grapes from Cuttings
As mentioned before, growing grapes from seeds can be quite
laborious and will not always have pleasant results. The best
method to use is to grow your grapevines from cuttings. This
gives you the assurance that your cuttings have come from a
grapevine which has already matured and produced fruit.

Make sure to get good cuttings from an established, healthy

grapevine which is known for thriving in your area. Your
local garden center should be able to advise you on this but the
standard practice is to take these cuttings from dormant vines
of approximately one year of age.

Once you have obtained your cuttings, you will need to store
these until the time is right for planting. To do this, you need
to moisten the roots with a spray of water and then pack them
in kitchen towels or peat moss, dampen and store in plastic
bags (as explained for growing grapes from seeds).

Place these bags into a refrigerator and keep until ready to

plant.

Once early spring has arrived (and also making sure that there
is no longer a threat of frost), you can plant your cuttings in
your pre-prepared soil.

After approximately two to four weeks, your cuttings should

start to root and show growth. Water them regularly but don’t
overwater. Overwatering causes grapevines to produce a
multitude of leaves but very little fruit.

Once the cuttings have produced six-inch long new shoots,

you should then add extra fertilizer to your soil.
When to Plant
As mentioned earlier, it is always best to plant your grapevines
at the first sign of spring (assuming that all risk of frost is
gone). Planting in early spring gives your vines an entire
season to get themselves established before they have to face
the stress and strain of the winter months.

Double check your roots to ensure that they are healthy – if

they are dark brown or soft and spongy, they could have
frozen at some point. You won’t get much out of such a root
system which is this damaged. Whether or not the vine is
showing any new shoots doesn’t matter at this point – it is the
grapevine roots which are the most important.

The next thing to consider when planting out is that your vines
will need approximately 6 to 10 feet of room between them –
this does depend, however, on the variety as some will need
more space, some less. Each row of vines will also need to be
spaced 8 to 12 feet apart.

These measurements allow for better air circulation as well as

room to maneuver between them as they develop and grow.

If, however, you are growing muscadines, they require far

more space – up to 20 feet apart in each row with at least 12
feet of space between each row.

The hole in which you plant your grapevines should be big

enough to accommodate all roots without the need to cut or
bend any of them. This should be approximately three inches
wider and deeper than the ball of the root. Spread the roots
out gently when planting and replace the soil. Water
immediately and water well.
Make sure that you keep your grapevines moist until they have
started to show growth and have established their root system.
Water your vines every night, if possible. As a guideline, your
newly planted grapevines should receive approximately one
gallon of water per week during their first month.

To help keep the roots moist, place a layer of mulch around the
base of the vine – it also helps to keep weeds at bay. This
mulch could consist of hay or grass clippings but make sure
you remove this mulch before winter sets in.

This is due to the fact that small rodents will use it as a new
home for the winter and will feed off of your grapevine quite
happily.

If you wish, get a few sticks (each of them should be a few

feet long) and push them into the soil near your vines. Using
garden twine, tie your vines to the sticks for extra support.
This will help the vines along until they reach your trellis
supports and can be trained through and around the trellis.
Watering Your Grapes
Watering your grapes is a fine balance between enough water
to see your grapes flourish to too much water, leaving your
roots soaked. Soaked roots lead to death of your vines.

The best way to avoid this is to make sure that you water your
grapes when the sun isn’t out – this ensures that the water
doesn’t magnify the sun onto the leaves burning your plants.
Additionally, if the water evaporates from the soil too fast,
then your roots won’t get the water they need.

The final thing to consider here is to water your grapevines

twice a day during their first month and, after that, you water
them daily.
Training Your Grapes
With some varieties, it is possible to start training your
grapevines up a trellis or arbor in the same year as planting has
occurred; however, it is advisable to allow your plants to grow
undisturbed during their first year – allowing them to become
fully established.

Then, in the second year, you can cut the vine back and let that
established vine be trained up the trellis.

One way around this, however, is to plant more than one vine
making sure that some of them will be low level vines while
others will have the ability to grow up and over the top of your
trellis. Training your grapes in this way will provide you with
lovely shade under which to sit and an abundance of grapes all
around you.

Ensure that you prune your vines regularly in order to

maintain the quality of the vines.

A metal or wooden trellis (a good and sturdy one) is the best

for growing grapes in your garden as grapes can become
considerably heavy and vigorous once they have established
themselves. It also needs the ability to last many years as
grapes can take several years just to get going and you will
surely be enjoying the fruits of your labor for many years to
come.

Another thing to consider when buying or making a trellis is

that the vines needs something to climb on and a way of
ensuring that the roots are not allowed to dry out while you are
planting them.
You will need a structure which encourages your vines to grow
in a controlled, yet neat manner. You can make your trellis in
just about any shape you desire from a stair shape to a vertical
structure or from a circular shape to a small arch. Let your
imagination run away with itself – be creative.

As your grapevines grow, you can tie them to your trellis.

Keep an eye on your vines and check them regularly,
especially as they can grow extremely fast in the springtime.

Now that trellises have been covered, let’s move onto pruning.
Pruning Your Grapes
When growing your grapes, whether as a table grape or for
wine making purposes, you will find that if you prune
regularly and start correctly, it isn’t really all that difficult.

It is important that you prune back the vines every year so that
they have only 30 to 40 buds remaining on the vine. Buds are
considered to be the places on the branches where leaves grew
the previous year. They are known as nobs and when pruned
properly, they will produce more new branches this year.

Pruning is normally done during the off-season months of

January to March of each year. This is when your grapevine is
sleeping.

It’s not absolutely critical for you to prune every winter,

however you will have a better, more bountiful yield if you
do. If you leave your grapevines to grow on their own, you
will end up with beautiful foliage and dense shade, but little to
no fruit as the years progress.

The main branch should have approximately 10 shoots left

(each of these with approximately three to four buds) on it
while. Alternatively, you could prune back three to four of the
longer branches so that only 10 buds remain on each branch.

This means that you will be drastically pruning back your

grapevine during its dormant months.

Once a cane has produced, it won’t do so again, so it is

important to prune them back in order to allow new buds to
grow. Because each fruiting cane is bare in its second year of
growth, a new fruiting cane must be produced each year.
Pruning helps you to make the most of this cycle.
If a vine is pruned correctly, you should get a couple of new
branches every year which will grow and become your new
fruiting canes, replacing the old canes.

This requires you to prune back all new branches and runners
which are produced from the top canes leaving only a few
healthy, strong branches growing from the base of the vine.
You can then train these into your preferred pruning shape as
you did the previous year.

The best method to employ when pruning is to make diagonal

cuts across the bud.

For the canes, cut straight into the middle of its joints. Your
goal should be to leave the two lower healthy buds intact.

You should also make sure that the surrounding area is weed-
free. This will help to ensure that your grapevines receive all
the nutrients they need from the soil. Once the vine is free
from any weeds blocking the valuable sun rays, it will thrive
even more.

The main goal of pruning your grapevines is to end up with a

beautiful yield of grapes and a strong root structure. Many
believe that the best way to prune your grapes is to leave them
alone for their first year. Let them grow wild. Once you have
reached the dormant season at the beginning of its second
year, start pruning it back.

The best methods for pruning your grapes come under two
areas:
Spur pruning

Cane Pruning
Spur Pruning
The overall method of spur pruning encompasses cutting back
each main cane leaving behind two to three bud spurs spaced
apart four to six inches. No more than 70 to 80 buds should
remain. This is because if you have too many shoots, your
vines will become too dense and will restrict the vine’s
growth.

The end goal should be to have a large amount of light and

space coming through your vines so that your grapes get
sunlight from all angles.

Some of the more specific methods for spur pruning are listed
below:

Gobolet

Cordon

Geneva Double Curtain

Smart Dyson

Gobelet
The literal translation of the word, Gobelet, is goblet and
comes from an ancient era of training the vines without the use
of wires or other support systems, resulting in a shape which
resembles that of a goblet.

The vine’s trunk is kept quite short (at around 1 1/2 feet tall)
and is crowned by a gnarled lump of old wood – this results
from years of pruning back the main branches near the trunk’s
head (also known as head training).

Because of the resulting shape from this pruning method, it is

best suited to dry, hot climates so that any risk of rot is
diminished. This shape can usually be found in areas such as
The Rhône Valley, Languedoc, Burgundy and Provence.

Cordon
The Cordon method also has a short trunk (about 1 1/2 feet
tall) much like the Gobelet style. However, instead of using
the method of training the trunk’s head, one of the permanent
branches is trained along a wire placed to the side of the vine.

This branch (also known as a cordon) is never completely

pruned and can contain any number of bud spurs. They can be
trained in a unilateral or bilateral way, although the bilateral
method is the one found most often. The unilateral method is,
however, becoming increasingly popular due to the minimal
training effort required.

Geneva Double Curtain

The Geneva Double Curtain method was created in the 60’s
and is also known by the name of GDC. Its primary goal is to
give a higher quality of grape by reducing the amount of
shade. This done by a mass amount of foliage which is split
into two to produce a dense canopy

The trunk of the grapevine is grown to an approximate height

of 4 1/2 feet. From this point, two permanent cordons are
trained with each one running along a support wire. These
support wires are placed about 4 1/4 feet apart.
The spurs can be found along the cordon and these are what
produce the canes for the grapes themselves – these canes
hang towards the ground.

This system allows for a greater yield of grapes but it also

creates air pockets where this lack of circulating air could
cause disease issues for your grapes.
Cane Pruning
Cane pruning is the more difficult pruning method. It requires
you to pick up to four of your newest fruit-bearing canes and
then prune back each one to only 15 buds. If you are growing
your grapes in order to produce wine, then each full grapevine
should have only about 30 buds remaining.

If you are growing your grapes for the purpose of eating as a

table fruit, then your grapevine can have approximately 50 to
80 buds remaining on each vine.

During this process, you need to leave a single spur cane (with
one or two buds remaining on it) close to each of your fruiting
canes. The purpose of this is so the spur canes will become
your fruiting canes for next year. It also helps to keep the
grapes growing near to the trunk. You should remove all other
canes.

Thompson seedless grapes are an example of a variety which

must be pruned using the cane method.

Some of the more specific methods for cane pruning are listed
below:

Guyot

Scott Henry

Kniffin

Guyot
The Guyot method of cane pruning has two versions available:
Single Guyot

Double Guyot

In Single Guyot, one cane and one spur per vine are saved
each year. The single cane per vine helps to produce next
year’s fruiting canes and the single spur per vine produces the
cane which will replace the old one.

In Double Guyot, two canes and two spurs per vine are saved
each year. These canes are trained in opposite directions to
each other along supporting wires.

Scott Henry
The Scott Henry system is a variation of the Double Guyot
method. Its goal is to improve the quality of the grapes
produced as well as increase their yield. Four cordon canes
are trained from the trunk and are then trained in two opposing
directions along supporting wires.

On the upper cane, the fruiting canes are trained in an upward

fashion but those on the lower cane are trained downwards.

Kniffin
This system is used to horizontally spread out the grapes
allowing exposure to the vines for excellent air circulation. It
is very similar to the look and feel of cattle fencing.

The vines are trained upwards from the ground until they
reach the first wire of your training system and are then trained
horizontally along the wire; however, you would also leave
some of the vines to continue growing upwards to the second
wire and then trained horizontally from there.
Spur or Caned Pruning
There are other pruning methods available which work well
with either spur or cane pruning and these are as follows:

Vertical trellis

Lyre

Vertical Trellis
This system allows you to train your vines upwards (similar to
the shape of a candelabra) by using five or more horizontal
wires along a high trellis. Each wire is placed approximately
one foot higher than the wire below it allowing the vines to
grow upwards. It also prevents the vines from hanging over
which in turn creates air pockets.

Lyre
The Lyre method of pruning was developed based on the
Geneva Double Curtain method. Its main goal was to improve
the microclimate of the overhead canopy providing less shade
for the fruit and foliage.

The cordons are grown along the supporting wires in a

horizontal manner but the fruiting canes are trained upwards
(instead of down). The result is a lyre shape, especially when
the vine rows are viewed from the end.
How to Keep Your Grapes Healthy
Growing healthy and fully ripe grapes should be one of your
main goals as diseased grapes won’t be nice to eat and they
certainly won’t make a nice wine.

Any fungal diseases remaining on the vines at the end of

season could then overwinter on bark, mummified fruit or
dead leaves. Therefore, it is extremely important to make sure
that your vines are free from any possible culprits.

One way to help keep your grapes healthy is to keep roses as

well – especially red ones. They attract bees who, in turn,
pollinate the grapes. If you pick a rose variety which is a
climber, it will make for an even more beautiful trellis than
with grapes alone.

Keep an eye on your leaf color as it will determine the vine’s

healthiness. If they are a beautiful, lush green, then your
grapevine has all it needs to be healthy. If not, then try
spreading some compost over the grapevine roots.

On the following pages, you will find more information on the

various types of disease and pests which could harm your
grapevines.
Diseases
Freedom from diseases on your grapevines such as grey mold
or powdery mildew is paramount to your plant’s survival. The
next two sub-sections will help you understand each.

Botrytis
Botrytis (also known as grey mold) grows on the stems, leaves
and shoots of the grapevine. Once this happens, then these
and the grapes will shrivel up and die.

It is caused by a fungus known as Botrytis Cinerea and is quite

common amongst grapes, gooseberries, beans, courgettes,
blackberries, cucumber, raspberries, tomatoes, lettuce and
strawberries and in areas such as greenhouses or other humid
areas.

It normally gets its access to the plant through wounds (cuts on

the vine) or if the plant is stressed (i.e. unhealthy).

Symptoms
It shows itself as its name suggests – grey mold. If the
humidity is at a high level, then it will spread rapidly; if the
humidity is low, it may be contained in a small area.

Remedy
In order to try and cure grey mold without the use of
chemicals, the following will be necessary:

Remove any dying or dead flowers, buds and/or leaves

Clear this dead material away when finished

Don’t plant grapevines too closely together

Thin out the stems

Improve air circulation

If you decide, in the end, to use chemicals, you could try plant
and fish oil blends but they aren’t likely to have much impact.
This is because there aren’t any fungicides approved for the
cure and prevention of grey mold – not for the amateur
gardener anyway.

Powdery Mildew
This disease can be found on the flowers, stems, foliage and
fruit if infected. A spore covering will be visible on the
surface of those areas. This fungus produces air-borne spores
with their water content being extremely high. This high
water content allows them to cause problems under dry
conditions, not just humid areas.

It is quite common amongst plants such as peas, cucumbers,

marrows, courgettes, crucifers, grapes, gooseberries,
blackcurrants and apples.

Normally, powdery mildew remain dormant in the winter and,

in the spring, release their spores to the rest of the plant.

Symptoms
Powdery, white patches on lower and upper leaves, fruit and
flowers. It can be difficult to see, depending on the type of
plant.
Remedy
In order to try and cure powdery mildew without the use of
chemicals, the following will be necessary:

Remove any infected leaves and then water and mulch your
vines
Use sulphur or spray with plant and fish oils
Destroy any fallen leaves and throw them out
Prune out any infected shoots

If you decide, in the end, to use chemicals, fungicides are

readily available which will do the job nicely. The best one
specific for grapes is Westland Plant Rescue Control (also
known as Difenoconazole).
Pests

Glasshouse Red Spider (or Two-spotted) Mite

This mite is very troublesome, indeed. It attacks plant foliage
and causes leaf loss and a mottled appearance. It thrives in
dry, yet warm, conditions and makes its presence known
mainly from March through to October.

It can attack plants such as peppers, aubergines, tomatoes,

cucumbers, nectarines, peaches and grapevines.

Even though their name suggests that they should be red, they
are actually yellow/green in color and have a darker pair of
markings, hence the alternative name of two-spotted mites.
The only time they become red is during the dormant seasons
of autumn and winter.

They are very small (in fact they can be less than one-sixteenth
of an inch long) and can only just be seen with the naked eye.
However, due to their large numbers, you can usually see
them.

They have a tendency of hiding in the soil or in greenhouse

crevices and are considered dormant during autumn and
winter. Once March approaches, they become active again but
problems won’t develop until late summer, in most cases.

Symptoms
On the grapevine leaves, you will find a pale mottled texture
of the leaf’s upper surface. Underneath the leaf, you may find
lots of very small yellow/green mites with skins and eggshells
cast aside (white in color).
On the plants themselves, you may find a web of fine silk with
the leaves having lost most of their lush green color to the
point that they may have even fallen off.

Remedy
In order to get rid of these pests without the use of chemicals,
the following will be necessary:

Mist plants with a plant oil, extract or soft-soap base on a

regular basis

Use Phytoseiulus Persimilis – a type of mite which feeds on

the Glasshouse Red Spider

If you decide, in the end, to use chemicals, you could try one
of the following:

Doff’s All-in-One Garden Pest Killer

Scott’s Bug Clear Gun

Bayer’s Sprayday Greenfly Killer Plus

Birds and Wasps

Birds and wasps attack fruit grown outdoors when they are
ripening. They are always on the search for some tasty treats
and juicy grapes draw their attention easily.

Remedy
For birds, use old panty hose or muslin bags to individually
wrap the grape bunches.
Another method would be to use those netted bags which
potatoes and onions come in. Use a twist tie to wrap these
over your bunches of grapes. This should protect them quite
well. If this still isn’t enough, you could then cover your
grapevine with a larger net.

For wasps, get a spray gun and fill it with water and
dishwashing liquid. Then aim – but aim well. You don’t want
to get stung in the process of doing this. If you get enough of
this spray on the wasps, they should die quickly.
Now What?
Stick to the advice given in this book and you are on your way
to getting some great results. Just remember, it is a slow start
which can take years in order to get the yield you want.

Work hard, have patience and you will get some great,
nutritious, high-quality and sweet grapes. Enjoy.
 Table of Contents
Introduction
Factors to Consider When Choosing Grapes
Which Variety Grows Well for My Area?
Beta
Catawba
Champanel
Concord
Cynthiana
Edelweiss
Ellen Scott
Flame
Muscadine
Pinot Noir
Valiant
Zinfandel
Selecting Your Vine Location
Planning a Trellis
Preparing the Soil
Growing Grapes from Seeds
Stratification of Grape Seeds
Planting Out the Seeds
Growing Seedless Grapes
Growing Grapes from Cuttings
When to Plant
Watering Your Grapes
Training Your Grapes
Pruning Your Grapes
Spur Pruning
Gobelet
Cordon
Geneva Double Curtain
 Cane Pruning
Guyot
Scott Henry
Kniffin
Spur or Caned Pruning
Vertical Trellis
Lyre
How to Keep Your Grapes Healthy
Diseases
Botrytis
Powdery Mildew
Pests
Glasshouse Red Spider (or Two-spotted) Mite
Birds and Wasps
Now What?