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    7 views231 pages

    Harley Davidson Sportster 1970 2003 Service Manual OPT

    Uploaded by

    José Alexandre Gama da Silva

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
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    of 231
    LIVING WITH YOUR HARLEY-DAVIDSON SPORTSTER Introduction Milwaukee Magic Page _Os4 ‘Acknowledgements Page 0-7 ‘About this manual Page 0-7 Identification numbers Page 0-8 Buying spare parts Page 0-8 Decoding the Vehicle Identification Number VIN) Page 0-9 Safety frst! Page O12 Daily (pre-ride) checks Engine ol level check Page 0v13 ‘Suspension, steering and final dive checks Page 0-14 LLogal and safety chocks Page 0-14 Brake fuid level checks Page 0-15 Tire checks Page O16 MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Specifications Page 4+ Recommended lubricants and fluids Page 1-2 Gomponent locations Page 1-4 Maintenance schedule Page 166 Maintenance procedures Page 1-7 REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine, transmission and associated systems Engine Page 2Ae1 Clutch, primary drive and transmission Page 2661 Fuel and exhaust systoms Page +4 ignition system Page 401 Chassis and bodywork components Steering Page +1 ‘Suspension Page _5¢1 Final crve Page +4 Brakes Page 6-4 Wheels Page 6-3 Tres Page 6°19 Frame and bodywork Page Tet Electrical system Page 841 Wiring diagrams Page 8915 REFERENCE Dimensions and Weights Page _REF+1 ‘Tools and Workshop Tips Pago REF+6 Gonversion Factors Page REF®24 ‘Motorcycle chemicals and lubricants Page REF®25 Storage Page REF*26 ‘Troubleshooting Page REF*29 Troubleshooting equipment Page REF*38 Technical terms explained Page REF*43 Index Page REF+51 oea Introduction Harley-Davidson Milwaukee Magic by Alan Ahlstrand Milwaukee Magic Late in the 19608, on a typical warm summer California evening, a frend showed Up at my house and announced, "Alan, if 1 can't make the payment, 'm coring to you tor the money, Because I'm not losing this bike.” He'd just traded his Suzuki X-6 a 25060 2-stroko twin with six-speed transmission, at that time boing talked about as the new Hariey-beater- for a new-toshim 1966 Sport- stor XLCH, Ve eden the Suzuki and lad it down on asphalt, £0 | wasn’t invited onto the front seat fof the Sportster. Instead, he gave complete instructions in back-seat riding technique for 8 torquey motorcycle without a sissy bar or ‘grab strap for the passenger: "Put your hands ‘round my waist and lock your tigers, oF the ‘ike wil et out rom under you." Of we went, mel ‘Tho 1975 FLH1200 (Shovelhead) fending up on newly-opened Highway 280 South of San Francisco, which was deserted 31 2 am, Helmetiess, ungoggled, dressed in Jeans and tsnts and unbridled by a sense ot ‘mortality, we cranked i up. After Pd had ‘Srough time to think "Were crazy, but yeoe- haga mare than ance, ha took ane hard otf the grip, turned around with one eya closed, the othar half-closed and streaming tears grinaed, and held up one finger - we'd hit a hundred mites an hour Maybe tho speedometer was optimistic, and it was really ory 97-4 or so, but when the wind is shredding the shirt on your back and flapping your face lke flags in ahuricane, the ditferonce is academic Every Harey rider has done something lke that =r ili, whan the time and place are right ~ and that Nilwaukes magic has boen the key to the company's modern success. Al of this started a contury ago. In 1803 Arthur Davidson and Wiliam S. Harley fin- ished a three-year project, building what amounted to a powered bicycle. The first Harley-Davidson engine had a single cylinder With a bore of 2-178 inenos and a stoke of 2 7/8 inches, displacing 405 cc. The intake valve was not operated mechanically rather Iwas sucked open by the downward pull of the piston and pusshed shut by the compress Ing fuel-air moxture on the piston's upward stroke, a design shared with contemporary automobile engines such as the Knox Porcu pine. Power transmission was by a leather bolt assisted whon necessary by Biycle ped- ais,'a chain, sprockets and human effor Braking was accomplished by pedaling back wards, bioycle-stye. The front suspension was. the leading-link design later to be improved and used in Springer, historic ana modern. The rear suspension? There wasn't ‘any ~ the bike's rigid, triangular rear frame Section connected directly to the rear ae, From 1903 o 1908, tha company eontin= usd to grow, with steady improveronts inthe single-cylinder bike's design, steady in- ‘creases in sales, ancl a move from the shed where the company started to a two-story factory in Minwauke. in 1009 Harleys frst V. twin, the model 50, was introduced, and with tthe company’s enduring theme. Despite civersione such as the Topper scooter and Aermacehi singles of tho Sitios ‘and Seventies, the theme continues to the present day. The heart ofall Harays, the Key to what makes a motoreycle a Harloy-David- son, is the engine. The rest ofthe bike exists to keep the engine off the pavement. This function is performed in grand style, of ‘course, with @ nearinfirite selection of cus- tomizing possibiftes, but atthe contr of tall is a big-displacement,narrow-angle, uneven fring, air-cooled V-twin that roars instead of wale, From the flatheads that euoceeded the Medial 5D, to the Knuckishead of 1986, tothe Pannead of 1948, tothe Snovelhead of 1966, to ths Evolution of 1984, to the current Twin Cam 88, every important Harley-Davidson engine has ft that description (Actually, the ony offcial designations in the list are Evoliton and Twin Gam 88. Pan head, Knucklehead and Shovelhead were Introduction o-s informal names, based on the appearance of the cylinder heads and valve covers. For that reason, the Twin Cam 88 came dangerously lose to being dubbed “Fathead.”) In addition to big piston displacement land a V-twin configuration, Harley engines share some unique characteristics, The angle between the cylinders. oF “V,” fs 45 degrase The crankshaft has one erankpin, with both connecting rods mounted en i. This means thatthe cylinders fe 80-degrees apart (at 315 ana 405 degrees of crankshatt rotation), This luneven firing sequence gives the engine ts signature “potato-potato" idle. In adion to being mounted on a single crankpin, the con necting rods are mounted krife-anc-fork syle rather than side-by-side. In this design, the bottom end of one connecting rod Is. an Inverted Y, with the bottom end of the other Connecting rad centered between the Y's branches. Ths allows the engine tobe narrow from side t0 side, while the small angle between the cylinders allows I to be narrow front-to-rear. The company continued producing new products under family ownership until 1960, when it was bought by the conglomerate AME. The AMF years, 1969 t0 1981, mere \widely regarded as the compary’s Dark Ages = sales dropped, along with the bikes’ repute tion for quality. My friend replaced his 7966 Sportster with a. 7979 madel, and then replaced a series of tachs anc speedometors because the needles kept Breaking off from vibration. This era endes withthe company’s rescve in a buyout by company executives, Tec by Vaugha Beals. This i one of the most successful employee Buyouts in corporate Fistory, ithe company’s stock pies and sales ‘are any incoation =the stock has multiplied in Value many times, and Hariey-Davicson has for years maintained the biggest marcet share in the cruiser and touring bike catogores. ‘Tha almost dent happen ~ and Harley: Davidson neary ended up inthe reoycing bin of history, as a nostalgic brand name that would-be entrepreneurs coula paste onta yet ‘another corporate startup attempt “The buyout coincided with a downturn in ‘the motoreyele market, Along with that, cam petition from Japanese bikes had become ‘well established, The SUZUKI X-6 wasn't a Harley-beater, but there were now plenty of four-cylinder Japanese 750s that were, Worse ye, the major Japanese manufacturers began to build V-twin cruisers. Faced with imminent doom, Harley-Davidson turned tothe US gov ‘ernment for help. This came inthe form of a tari, Beginning in 1983, on Japanese-built motorcyces with dispiacerents over 700ce. The result was a sudden rash of Japanese bikes aisplacing 6990o, but it was enough to keop the company alive. Its fortunes even Improved enough that it asked for an early fen tothe tar in 1987, ‘The motorcycle market coasted along the bottom for several years, then finally Began to ‘The 1874 XL1000 Sportster (Shovelhead) ‘The XL1200 Sportster (Evolution) os Introduction ‘ur up significantly in the eary 19608. As the market revives, tne auaionce was cnanging: motorcyclists were becoming olde, richer, but ‘more in need ofa bad boy image (and ineoas ingly, a bad git image). They also needed Dike that wore rallable and relatively como able to ride. Harey-Davideon had possessed the image for decades, even i Marion Brando id ido a Triumph in “The Wild One." With the Evolution engine and improved quality contro, the company was on its way to reliability. ‘Comfort and simplicity had besn evolving, and ‘continued to do 0. Comfort and simplicity were no part of the Sportster XLCH, but in its day, the bike was enough ofa tril ride to make up for it ‘The kickstarte, operated in the wrong syn chronicity with the twist-grip spark timing, ‘could ick back and hurl you. The drum ‘rakes stopped the bike far less capably than the engine made it go. The XLCH had no bat tery; its electrical system was powered by a ‘magneto, which meant that the lights would ‘dim you let the engine idl. Why no, office, wasn't speedsnifting, 1 was just tying t0 keep the lights safely bright) ‘The XLCH was intended for competition, Other Harleys were easier to ride, anc had batteny-based slectrcal systems. Electnc Start was introduoed on te frst Electra Glide in 1965. Final drive progressed from an ‘exposed chain, to an enclosed chain, to a ‘cogged belt tnat's stil in use, Drum brakes were replaced by discs at front and rear. Fub- ber engine mounts were employed on touring ‘kes, and later on the Dyna. The hart ook of early bikes was recreated withthe Softall, but the Softail had a rear suspension, A well ‘signed sequential port ful injaction system was added as an option. Some models were Cesigned with low seat heights to accommo- Gate shorer riders ‘The Evolution engine was a turning point In tne company’s history, even though It wae ‘essentially a refined top end on the Shovel head bottom end, The iron cylinders anc heads of the Shovelhead were replaced with ‘aluminum components. The vane train's basic design was unchanged, with gear- dhiven camshafts, hyerauit ters, pustrods ‘and racker arms. The change to aluminum at the top end eliminated a major eoures of oll leaks, at the joints of the cylinders ang crankcase, because the parts now expanded ‘and contracted at tne same rate as they heated and cooled. The combination of mechanical improvement and Harley tration was enthusiastcaly received by customers, frst in the Big Twins for 1964 and then in the Sportster for 1988, ‘The Evolution engine was superseded by ne Twin Cam 88, inthe Touring and Dyna ‘chassis for the 1889 model year and in Soft ails or 2000 (the Evo is stil used inthe Sport ‘te), Unike the Evolution, the Twin Cam 88 was a completely new design, even wile it retained the basies of the traditional Harley The 1993 XLH 883 Sportster Hugger Evolution) Introduction o-7 ‘A hundred years old, and stronger than ‘ever - 100th Anniversary models sport a distinctive logo engine. Despite the name, the engine i not have overhead cams, The Twin Cam designs tion came about because the wide spacing botweon the large cylinder bores made a sin cle camshatt impractical. The solution was to luse one camshaft for each cylinder. The camshafts ate mounted in a support plato on the right side of the engine, Below the cylin dors. The rear camshaft Is driven by the Crankshaft through @ chain and sprockets ‘mounted outside the camshaft support plat, ‘The rear camshaft drives the front camehatt through a second chain and sprockets, mounted inside the camshaft support plat, ‘As with earier Harley engines, the camshafts operate tne vaives through hydraulic liters, ushrods and rocker arms. Engine vibration In Dyna and Touring madels was andied by rubber engine ‘mounts. In the Softal, where the engine is Past meets future - the Sportster is essentially unchanged, solily mounted to the chassis, another soli- ‘ion Was needed, This was the Twin Cam 888, the balancer-equipped version of the engine ‘that appeared in Softals in 2000. The Twin Cam 888 is the same as aon-counterbal= anced versions trom the crankshaft up. & pair fof balance ats, ane behind the erankshaft ‘and one in front, are driven by the eranksnaft tough @ chain and sprockets “Thus Harley-Davidson ends its frst con- tury with avery good product line and very ‘good prospects. What's instore for Harley's ext century? Logical, the company’s future Cruisers and touring motoreycies should be varations ofthe V-Rod sportbike. The V-Rod is an attractive mix of Harley tradition and madern technology. Like traditional Harleys, ‘while the V-Rod is radiealy new the V-Rod has a V-twin engine. Unlike trad- tional Harleys, te V-Rod employs overhead ‘cams, fourvaive heads and liquid cooting to produce an impressive 115 horsepower. And Yet, Harley customers have let V-Rods on the Sales floor in record numbers while buying ore Twin Cam 88s every year. Mader Japanese bikes and Sportsters tend to have four-figure price tags and fve- ‘igure redines; Harley, traditional and V-Fee, are the ather way around. Modern Havleys ae well bul and rellabie, but so are thei com Petitors. Why, in the face of these facts, do traditional Hareys continue to dominate their market? When Milwaukee magic applies, logic doesn’t. I's as simple, and as compl: cated, a that. Acknowledgements ur thanks afe due to JIMS Toos, of amar, Caifrnia (war jmeusa.com), for Supphig the speck toot used in some pho- tographs. "The. introduction "wiwatkee ‘Magi was ten by lan Afstand About this manual ‘The aim ofthis manual isto halp you get the best value from your matoreyte. I'ean do 50 in several ways. can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose te have it done by a dealer, provides infor- mation and procedures for routine maint ‘ance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic {and repair procedures to folow when trouble ‘We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpier jobs, ‘doing it yourself may be quicker than arang- ing an appointment to get the motorcyes nto {2 dealer and making the tps te leave & and lok It up. More importatly, alot of money ean be saved by avoicing the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs, An added benefit Is the Sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you eel ater doing the job yours. Fiferences to the lft or right side ofthe motorcycle assume you are siting on the seat, facing forwar We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but motorcycle manufacturers make alt ations and design changes during the pro- duction run of 2 particular motorcycle of ‘which they do not inform us. No lability can be accepted by the authors or publish ers for loss, damage or injury caused by {any errors in, or omissions from, the infor- mation given. os Identification numbers Buying spare parts ‘Once you have found al ho identification ‘numbers, recard them for reference. when buying pars. Since the manufacturers change specifeation, parts and vendors (companies that manufactre various comaonents on the ‘achin) proving the ID rumbers ste oly way tbe reasonedly sue that you re buying tne conect par. Whenever possible, tke the worn part 10 the doalr so cirect comparison with the now Component can be mado. Along the Wal fram Single letter 1or2 O through 9 or x Single digit Single letter | Six digits Heavyweight or middleweight motorcycle ‘the manufacturer tothe parts shot, there are numerous places that the part can end up with the wrong number or be listed incor- recty ‘The two places to purchase new parts for ‘your motoroyelo the accessory store and the franchised dealer - differ inthe type of parts they carry While dealers can obtain vitally ‘every part for your motorcycle, the accessory ‘dealer i usually imited to normal high wear items such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets, cables, chains, Market designation Harley-Davidson Model designation Engine displacement Introduction date or model Check digit Model year Location or manufacture ‘Sequential serial number ‘Vehicle identification number details (typical) brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory out- let have major suspension components, cytin- ders, transmission gears, or cases. Used parts can be obtained for consider- ably less than new ones, but you can't always be sure of what you're gating. Once again, ‘take your worn part to the salvage yard for ‘rect comparison. ‘Whether buying new, used or rebuilt parts, the best course 's to deal dee with some. ‘one who specializes in parts for your particu- lee make. Identification numbers o-9 Decoding the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) “The frame serial number is stamped into the rignt side of the staering head and pistes (on a decal attached to the right tare down: tube. An abbreviated frame serial number is stamped on the crankcase below the “V" of the cylinders, Both of these numbers should be recorded and kept in a safe place so they Market designation 1: Manufactured for USA, ‘can be given to law enforcement officals in the avert of a thet The frame serial number and engine serial number should algo be kept ha handy place (such as with your driver's license) so ‘hey are alvays avaiable when purchasing or ‘ordering pats for your machine. 5: Manufactured for all other markets Heavyweight motorcycle: 1:901 ec or greater engine displacement Middleweight motorcycle: 44: 951 through 900 ce or greater engine displacement Model designation 1970 through 1978 2G: XLT 3A: XL or XLH 4A: XLCH 4D: XLA 1979 and 1980 3A: LH 4A: XLCH 4E:XLS 1981 through 1985 ‘CAH: XLX (BH: XLS. (CGH: XX (CDH: XR-1000, 1986 and 1987 ‘The Vehicle Identification Number VIN) contains code letters and numbers that pro- Vide specie information about each motoey- cle. The purpose of each letter or number is Shown below, The latter and number codes ‘are described boiow. 1988 through 1998 ‘CA: XLH 883, XLH 1200, CE: XLH 883 Hugger CF: XLH 889 Deluxe 6G: XL12006 Custom CH: XL12008 Sport 1999 and later CAM: XLH 883 CEM: XLH 883 Hugger CJM: XLH 883C Custom (CKM: XL 883R CAP: XL1200 (CGP: XL12006 Custom CHP: XL12008 Sport (CA: XLH 883, XLH 883 Deluxe, XLH 1100 CE: XLH 883 Hugger continued on next page o-10 Identification numbers Introduction date and special models 1; Regular introduction date 2: Mid-year introduction date 3: California model 4: Anniversary model, or special edition Engine Size 1: 888 oo Nt10000 1200 ce VIN check digit Vario rom 0 through 9 or Model year code (1983 and later) o: 1988 K: 1989 1994 x: 1990 E 1984 4900 5: 1995 ¥: 2000 F: 1985 M1981 1396 1: 2001 G: 1986 N: 1982 v. 1387 2: 2002 1987 1083 W138 2008 JE 1988 Assembly plant kc Kansas City, Missouri YY: York, Pennsylvania Identification numbers o-11 ove Safety first! Professional mochanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic yyou may be about getting on withthe job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safely Is ot put at risk A moment's lack of attention ‘can reeult in an accident, a ean fare to ‘observe simple precaxtons, ‘There will aways be new ways of having accidents, and the folowing is not a comp hensive fist ofall dangers; tis intended rather tomake you aware ofthe risks and to encour- age a safe appreach to all work you carry out ‘on your bike, Asbestos © Certain friction, insulating, sealing and ‘ther products - suchas brake pads, catch linings, gaskets, otc. ~ contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avai inhal tion of dust rom such products since tis haz ardous to health ifn doubt, assume that they {do contain asbestos, Fire © Remember at all imes that gasoline is hight flammable. Never smoke or have any Kind of nakes flame around, when working on ‘the vehicle. But the risk does not en there = 2 ‘park caused by an electrical short-cut, by ‘wo metal surfaces contacting each other, by caralass use of 00's, or even By static elec troy built up in your body under certain con ditions, can ignito gasoline vapor. which in & Contned space is highly explosive. Nover use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. Use an Approved saely solvent ‘© Aways disconnect the battery rouns ter- ‘inal before working on any pat ofthe fuel or flectrical system, and never sk spiling fuel fn fo ahot engine or exhaust. © itis recommended that a fre extinguisher of atype suitable for fuel and electrical resi kept handy in the garage or workplace at al times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electr- cal fre with water Fumes © Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even ‘After the initia 1,000 miles (1600km) > geammunng, “maTisvon mimes chaincaee a feerreterter eres er ae Ta iil cick defile (Sack 32) ‘vs bervice ms unuitty pertormed tor a desta Fernce riensrmart, Ee ‘Adal the chatch treeplay {Section 23) Seige nm nat recite —€ Oheck te cive bet and sprockets for wear tbl Tra ofthe 8000 mie check: (2) Fastener torque check [5 Silesian Wb eaten ‘Check the condition of the contact breaker points (2970 through 1978 models: ool (Section 11): Every 300 miles (500 km). (7) Liipricate tbs drive chain (witout automatic ofr) nd check play (chan drive models) (Section 3) (1 Gheck engine off level in the ol tank (Section @) Every 1,000 miles (1,600 km) oh oe a Daren ree aceon ete 30) ( Llovoeceta Lhe ire co aun FH 6 bear pae ‘seal a Gace storms chain le (1670 tough (Gorecki poor see heel sa Cee 1978 modes} (action 7 LL Inspect the wheel and tires (Section 8). ton (Change the fork oil (Section 34) Every 300 miles 1*7 2 Introduction to tune-up and routine maintenance 1. This Chaptor covers in detail the checks: and procedures necessary for the tune-up ‘and foutine maintenance of your motorcycle Section 1 includes the routine maintenance ‘Schedule, which is designed 0 keep the machine in proper running condition and prevent possible problems. The remaining ‘Sections contain cetalled procedures for ‘carrying out the Items listed on the mainte- nance schedule, as well as adcitional main tenance Information designed to increase rabbit. 2 Since routine maintenance plays such {an Important role inthe safe and effcient ‘operation of your motorcycle, itis presented hres @ comprehensive checklist. For the Fider who does al of the bike's maintenance, these lists outline the procedures and checks that should be dane on a routine basis. 3 Maintenance and safety information is Printed on decals in various locations on the ‘otoreyeto. If the information on the decals airs from that Includes here, use the Infor: mation onthe decal 4 Deciding where to star or plug Into the routine maintenance schedule depends on several factors. if you have a motorcycle ‘whose warranty has recenty expired, and it has been maintained according tothe war- ranty standards, you may want to pick up routing maintenance as it coincides withthe ext mileage or calendar interval. you have ‘owned the machine for some time But have ever performed any maintenance oni, then you may wart to start atthe nearest interval {and include soma addtional procedures to fensure that nothing important is overooked, Ifyou have just had a major engine overhaul then you may want to star the maintanance Every 300 miles (500 km) routine from the beginning. if you have @ Used machine and hava no knowledge of ts history or maintenance record, you may desire to combine al the checks Into one large servic Intialy and then settle Into the ‘maitonance schedule prescribed, 5 The Sections which autine the inspec tion and maintenance procedures are writen as step-by-step comprehensive guides to ‘the performance of the work. They explain in detail each of the routine inspections and ‘maintenance procedures on the check ist References to addtional nfermation In appl- Cable Chapters are also included and should not be overlooked 8 Before beginning any maintenance or repair, the machine should be cleaned thor- ‘cughiy, especially around the ol fiter, spark lugs, vahve covers, side covers, carburetor, ft. Cleaning wil help ensure that dirt does not contaminate the engine and will allow You to detect wear and damage that could ‘othervise easly go unnoticed. 3 Final drive chain - check, adjustment and ibrcation << S 1 Eaty models use chain fal drive, Later models use a copged bett Check 2 Anegjected drive chain won't last long land can quickly damage the countershaft land rear wheel sprockets, Routine chain Adjustment and lubreation isn't affieut and vil ensure maximum chain and sprocket if, 3 To check the chain, place the motorey- ‘le upright with a rider siting onthe seat and ‘shift the transmission Into Neual. Make sure ‘the ignition switch is OF. 4 “Check for the spected treoplay (stack) atthe lower chain run, midway between the ‘sprockets, Chains usualy don't wear evenly, $0 rotate the rear wheel and check the ‘replay in @ number of places. AS wear ‘occurs, the chain will actually get longer, Which "means that agjusiment usually Involves removing some slack trom the chain. In some cases where hibrication has been neglected, corrosion and galing may .caus0 the links to bind ang kink, which efeo- ‘tively shortens the chain. ithe chain fs tight between the sprockets, rusty, or kinked, i's time to replace it witha pew one 5 After checking the slack, grasp the Chain where it wraps. around the. rear sprocket and try to pull it away from the ‘sprocket. f more than 14-inch of play is ev dant, the chain is excessively worn and shouldbe replaced with a new one. Adjustment {8 Rotate the rear wheel until the chain Is positioned where the least amount of slacks present 7 Loosen the axle nut (see illustration) On 197 and earior models, loosen the brake anchor bot also 8 Turn the axle adjusting nuts on both sides ofthe rear wheel unti the proper chain tension is attained. Be sure to turn both ‘adjusting nuts the same amount to keep the rear wheel in aligament. the adjusting nits reach the end of ther travel, the chain is probably excessively worn and should be Feplaced with @ new one. An accurate ‘method of checking the alignment ofthe rear ‘wheel's to measure the center-to-centerdis- tance between the swingarm pivot bolt and the rear axle on both sides ofthe motoroyste. \When the distances are equal, the ear whee (and thus the chain and sprockets) should be property aligned 8 Tighton the axle nut and anchor bolt (where applicable). Recheck the chain ton- son, Lubrication 10. Pro-1977 madols are equipped with an automatic chain oller refer to Section 4 for maintenance and adjustment procedures. Conventional chain 11 The best time to lubricate the chain is ater the motorcycle has been ridden. When the chains warm, the lubricant will penetrate the joints between the side plates, pins, bushings and rollers to provide ubrication of the internal load bearing areas. Use a good ‘ualty chain lubricant and apply tothe area ‘where the side plates overlap ~ not the mid- the chain adjusters (2) to take ‘lack out of the chain 198 Every 300 miles dle ofthe rollers. after appiyng the luriant. lett soak in fora few minutes before wiping off any excess. 12 I the chain is extremely dit, t shouts be removed and cleaner before it's hi cated. Remave the master nk retaining chip vith ples. Be careful not to bend or tus it Slide out the master link and remove the chain from the sprockets. Clean the chain land master ink thoroughly with solvent, Use {2 smal brush to remove cakec-on dit. Wipe ofthe solvent, hang up the chain an allow it todry O-ring chain 13 Later models (cca 1982) are equipped with an O-ring chain as standard equipment Lubricant is sealed in the roles by O-rings and thus, lubrication is only required on its utr working surfaces, Take care to use only alubrcant marked as suitable for Oving chains = ether iuricants wil cause damage to the O-rings, 1 the chain fs excessively diy, ican be detached from its sprockets and cleaned in kerosene - don't use any strong solvents or gasoline for clearing, otherwise the O-ings will deteriorate. When dry apply fresh luor- Cant to te outer rallare and side plates, Both chain types 15. Inspect the chain for wear and damage, Look for cracked roles and side plates and check for excessive looseness between the links. To check for overall wear, ay te chain na clean lat surace in a straigt fine. Push the ends together to take up all te slack betwioon the links, then measure the overall length. Pull the chain ends apart as far as possible and measure the overall lengtn ‘again. Subtract the two measurements to determine the difference in the compressed and stretched lengths. If the dilference, which is an indication of wear, ls greater bottom the opening with the motorcycle upright = ‘models through 1980 1 ov fii pug 2 Oil vel ug than 3 percent of the chai’ nominal ength, i's excessively worn and shouldbe replaced with anew one, 18 Check tho master link, especialy the clip, for damage. A new master link should bbe Used whenever the chain fs reassembled 17 Check the sprockets for wear (see Chapter 8). Replace worn sprockets with new ones. Never put a new enain on worn Sprockats or a worn chain on new sprockets Both chain and sprockets must bein good ‘condition or the new parts wil wear rapidly 48 Reposition the chain on the sprockets land inser the master link. This should be {one with both ends ofthe chain adjacent to ‘each other on the back side ofthe rear wheel sprocket. On O-ring chains, be careful to postion the O-ring correctly when assem: biing the master link. Note: Make sure the closed end of the master ink clip points In the drection of chain travel (gee Mustration) 19 Lubricate and aqjust the chaln as prev- ously described. 4. Fluid levels - check Ki; Engine oil 1 Engine oll level should be checked before every ride as descrised in Daly foe ride) checks atthe beginning of ths manus, as well as a the specified maintenance inter- vals Transmission/chaincase oil 2 Transmission oll level should be Checked at the specified maintenance inter: vel, 3 Suppot the bike securely upright 4 Remove the ol fil plug and the level 3.18 The closed end of the spring clip MUST face the direction of chain travel (arrow) plug (if equipped) trom the chaincase. On ‘models through 1980 the level plug is post tioned directly under the shit lever shat while on 1991 and later mode's i's at the rear ofthe chainease (se lustrations} 5 Ifthe chaincase i equipped with level lug, the ol avel should be up to the bottom Of the plug hole. On later models without an Dil fovel plug, remove the outer cliten cover, theo evel should be up tothe bottom ofthe cluten diaphragm spring 6 necessary, add cll ofthe type liste in this Capter’s Specifications. Don't overfill the transmission 7 Tighten the ol i plug (and love plug, i equipped) securely. If there's no fovel plug, tighten the outer clutch cover to the torque listed inthe Chapter 2 Specticatons. Brake fluid (disc brake models) 8 Fluid lovol in the front and rear brake 44b Transmission oi fil plug (1), level plug (some models) (2) and drain plug (3) - 1981 and later models. Every 300 miles 1*9 master cylinders should be checked before ‘every rida as described in Daily (pro-rde) ‘chocks atthe beginning of this manual, a8 wol a at the specified maintenance inter- vals. 9. Also check the brake fu for signs of ‘contamination. I the fluids contaminate, bed all oft out and replace It with new fluid (see Chapter 8, Warning: Do not mix fuid types. Inet known, fully drain the. fluid and have the system flushed before refling. Refer to the manufacturer's fluid recommendation ‘stamped on the reservoir cap or cover. Battery electrolyte (1970 through 1996) Warning: Bo extremely careful when working around the battery. The electrolyte is very caustic and an explosive gas fs siven off when the battery is charging. 10. To.check the electoite level inte bat tery, remove the side cover. The level shous be between the upper and lower level marks printed onthe outside of the attary case. H1 I theelectolyte i at or below the ower mark, the battery must be removed to ada more water. if necessary, refer to Section 18 Every 1,000 miles (500 km) for this procedure 12. With the battery removed form the motoraycle, remove each cell cap and add fsnough distld water to each call to bring the level up tothe upper mark. Do not over fil Also, do not use tap water, except in an emergency, as it will shorten the if of the battery. The call holes are quite emall so may help to use aplastic squoeze bottle wth a small spout to add the water, Note: He ‘ur the vent hose is properly route. 13. The battery should perodealy receive 1 thorough inspection, ineluding a check of the electratyte specific gravity. Reter to Sec: tion 18 for nase procedures. Av tte siomentsordcing_& 8 {you're using compressed air to.clean the element, place INT, your hand, a rag ora piace of Cardboard on the inside of the tlement to keep dust and debris from being blown from one side of the element Into the other. 1 Remove the cover screws or Allen bolts and lit off the air ker cover (see illustra- tons). Some models have 8 bala plate or seal Band inside the cover 2 The air cleaner element used on 1970 land 1971 models is mace of metal mesh. It should be removed, washed in @ non: flammabie solvent and saturated with clean engine oil aftr It has been allowed to dry. of service should be performed at Fy 1000 miles and more atten in dusty conditions. 2 Wipe out the housing and cover with @ ‘ta Remove the cover screws or bolts ‘and liftoff the cover, clean rag, then place a can rag in the car buretor opening to keep out dt. 4 Wash the element in soap and luke: ‘warm water. Don't tap the elernent on a hard Surface to remove the di, Finish clearing by Blowing low-pressure compressed air from 1 inside of the element tothe outside, oF fe lett ai cy. 5 Alter cleaning, hold the olement up toa bright light. The light should pass evenly through the element (any darker areas are stil ry, 6 On 1972 through 1989 radels, apply 1- {1/6 tablespoons of engine ol tothe element swith an atomizer or work te alin the foam by hand. Squeeze out any excess oil, ten ita the fiter and other components. 7 Cheok the gasket, cover O-ring and breather tubes for damage or deterioration ‘and replace them as needed. If you're work ing on a later Caiforia model, mako eure the door for the evaporative emission contro! ‘systom moves ted, 8 Reinstall tho iter by reversing the removal procedure. Make sure the elements ‘seated properly and securely connected to 5.1b ....for access to the air fier element the breather tubes inthe fiter housing betore Instaling the cover. On 1991 and later mod 8s, poston the round hole in the back of the air cleaner over the bolts heads (see lustration) 6 Brake system check and adjustment s Xx 1A routine general check of the brakes wil ensure that any problems ae discovered ‘and remedied Before the ders safaty is jeopardized 2 Check the brake lever anc pedal for loose connections, excessive play, bends, land otner damage. Repiace any damaged parts witn new ones (se Chapter 6) 5 Mako sure all brake fastoners aro tight (On disc brake model, check tho brake pads for wear as described below and mace sure the fluid lovel in tha reservoir ie correct (eee Daily (re-ride) checks at te beginning of this manual) Look for leaks at tne nose con: ‘88 Circular holes in element roar surface must locate over bolt heads (1991-0n models) 110 Every 1,000 miles {6.11 The rear drum brake backing plate hhas a small plug that can be removed to check the thicknoss of the brake shoe linings nections and check for cracks in the hoses. the lever is spongy, bleed the brakes as described in Chapter 6, 4 Make sure the brake light operates when the front brake lever depresses. 5 Make sure the brake light Is activated when the rea brake podal is depresses. 8 On disc brake models, neither brake light switch is adjustable. Ifa front switch falls to operate property, replace it with a new one (see Chaptor 8. Ia rear ewiteh, which detects hydraulic pressure inthe rear brake line, fal to operate prope, blaed the rear brake (see Chapter 6). that doesn't solve the problem, replace the suitch with a Rew one (S28 Chapter 8). Drum brake adjustment 7 On front drum brakes, the brakes should begin to drag when the lever has reached about 1/4 of ts travel ot, 1oosen the cable locknut and turn the adjusting nut to achieve the correct amount of pay, then tighten the locknut. Check to make sure the brakes reloase completely 8 Operate the podal while roling the bike forward, The brake linings should begin to ‘make contact withthe drum wen the pedal has been pressed 1-1/4 inches, Tighten or foosen the brake adjusting nut to achave the specified travel Drum brake wear check 9 The font brake can be withdrawn from the front rub after the axle has been pulled ‘out and the wheel removed from the forks. Refer to Chapter 6 for the front wheel removal procedures 40. Examine the brake shoe tnings. they’ thin or worn unevenly, they should be replaced with new ones 11 Some drum brake modals have an inspection hole in the backing plat - remove the plug (see illustration) and check the brake shoe lining thickness. by looking ‘through the hole. However, i's a good idea to remove the wheel to’ doa thorough Inspection. Refer to Chapter 6 for the wines! 6.128 On single-piston front calipers, pad lining thickness (arrows) can be checked {6.126 On four-piston calipers, the front pads (arrow) are inspected from ‘below and the rear pads are Inspected trom above removal procedure. If the tnings are worn Uuneveniy or worn to the speciied service limit, they should be replaced with new ones. Disc brake wear check 12 Front brake pad wear can be checked without removing the calipers (eee llustra- tions) The brake pads should have atleast the specied minimum amount of ining mate- ‘Fal remaining on the metal backing pate 18 If the pads are worn excessively, they must be replaced with new ones (see Chap ter8) 14 On 1978 through 1981 models, 2s well 85 2000 and later models, refer to Stops 12 ‘and 18 above to inspect the rear brake (he ‘calipers are very similar). On 1982 through 1999 models, remove the calipers to exam- Ine the brake pads (see Chapter 6). Rear disc brake pedal 15 Rear brake pedal postion and play are not adjustable. 16 Operate the brake pedal and check for excessive play. If you find this problem, ro allowed to wear to this extent, you risk damage tothe discts) 7.1 Automatic drive chain oller (arrow) blaed the brakes (600 Chapter 6). If that doesn't help, overnaul the rear master cylin- {der and calper (see Chapter 8) 7 Automatic drive chain oiler maintenance and ~ adjustment g 1. Many 1970 through 1976 models are ‘equipped with an automatic rear dive chain oiler (see illustration). The ole is exposed to the elements soit must be kept clean and propery adjusted 2 Loosen the locknut and turn the oiler adjusting screw unt it bottoms on the seat. Note: Keep track of the number of turns required to bottom the adjuster 3° Completely unscrew the adjuster and blow the orice out with compressed ai. 4 Install the adjusting screw and turn in ntl itbottoms, then back taut to its original Position the same number of turns written ov in Step 2). The normal setting is 1/4- tum open. Tighten the locknut 5) The oller should release two o three ‘drops of ol per minute. Turn the adjusting ‘screw in if lass oll is desired; turn t out f ‘mote ol needed, Every 1,000 miles 1°11 1. Routine tre and wheel checks should bbe made withthe realzation that your safety {depends toa great extent on their condition. 2 Check the tres carefully for cus, tears, ‘embedded nails or other sharp objects and ‘excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with excessively wom tres is extremely haz frdous, a traction and handling ae directly affected. Check the wear ineators molded Into the tre, refering tothe illustration in Daily pre-ride) checks at the beginning of thie manual, and replace wom tes with new ‘ones when the Indicators are worn away. Note: Jn the UK, tread depth must be at feast 1 mm over 3/4 ofthe tread breadth all the way around the tre, with no. bald patches. Many riders, howover, consider 2 frum tread dopth minimum to be @ safer lint Gorman law requires a minimum of 1.6 mm. 3 Repair or replace punctured tires as '800n as damage s noted. Do not try to patch fa tom tr, as whee! balance and te reabl- ity may be impaired 4" Chock the tie pressures when the tres fare cold and keep them propery inflated Proper air preseure wil Increase tre Me and provide maximum stability and ride comfort Koop in mind that low tire pressures may cause tho tr to sip onthe rim or come of, ‘while high tre pressures wil cause abnormal ‘toad wear and unsafe handing Cast wheels 5 The cast wheels used on some models are virtually maintenance free, but they should be kept clean and checked perioci- cally for eracks and other damage. Never attempt to repalr damaged cast wheels; they ‘must be replaced with new ones. 18 Check the valve stom locknuts to make sure they are tight. Also, make sur the valve stom cap i in place and tight. II's missing, instal anew one mad of metal or hard pas te, Wire wheels 7. The wire wheels used on some models Every 2,000 miles (3,200 km) 187 Check the tension of the spokes. periodically, bt don’t over-tighten them should be checked periodically for cracks, bending, loose spokes and corrosion. Never attempt to repair damaged wheels; they ‘must be replaced with new ones. Loose Spokes can be tightened with a spoke wrench (gee illustration) but be careful not te evartighten and distort the wee! cm. 9 Engine oll and filter - change 1. Consistent routine oil and iter changes axe the single most important maintenance procedure you can perform on a motorcycle. ‘The ol not only lubricates tho intoral pats of the engine, tansmission and cutch, but It ‘algo acts a8 a coolant a cleaner, a seala and a protectant. Because of those demands, the ol takes a toric amount of ‘abuse and should be replaced ofton with new oll ofthe recommended grade and type, Saving a litle money on the difference in cost Between a good oil and a cheap oil won't pay of if the engine is damaged, 2 Before changing the oll and fer, warm up the engine so the ol wil drain easly. Be Careful when draining the ol, asthe exhaust pipes, the engine, and the oll tel can cause ‘severe burns 3 Prop the motorcycle upright over a clean drain pan. Remove the oll filer Ceap/cipstick from the oll tank to act as a teminder that there is no alin the engine (08 Daly (orevide) checks atthe front ofthis ‘manual for cpstick location if necessary). 4 Remove the oll tank drain plug (t equipped) from the tank and alow the all to rain into the pan (soe illustration). Discard ‘the sealing washer on the drain plug; it should be replaced whenever the plug is removed, On later models without an el tank ‘ain plug, disconnect the oll tank drain hose {orm the lug at the rear muller mount and lower the disconnected end of the hose into the orain pan, 5 On sarly model, tit the ol fiter out of the tank after the oll has drained (eee llus- ‘ation) The fiter is housed in a carvidge and can be removed after detaching the fit lp, ‘and sealing washer from the upper end ofthe ‘94 Typical olf tank drain location (arrow) ‘cartridge tube. The fiter element should be replaced with @ rew one everytime the ols ‘changed. When replacing the element, make sure the Oving is positioned correctly on the cartridge tube flange. The correct order of ‘assembly within the cartridge tube Is: tube ‘eal, spring, lower fiter retainer, fiterele- ment, seaing washer and sping cp. 8 On later models, the ol fit is a con- ventional extra spin-on type, mounted on 8 bracket between the engine and oil tank, ‘on the lower left front engine bracket or ‘95 On early models, lit the fiter ‘cartridge out ofthe oil tank 1912 Every 2,000 miles 96 The external oil fiter is attached to the frame or engine, depending on year (1980-1981 model shown) recy on the front ofthe engine (see ius tration). Unscrew the filter witha fiter wrench or strap wrench, 7. If additional maintenance ie planned for this time period, check of service another component while the ol is alowed to drain completly 8 Check the condition of the drain plug threads (f equipped with a drain plug) Replace the plug f they'e damaged. Sip a new sealing washer over the drain plug, then Install and tighten the plug to the torque listed In this Ghapter's Specifications. Avoid overtghtening, as damage tothe of tank wil recut 11 the motereyele has 2 son-on a {iter old te ter withthe HINT, Coen end upsgnt and pour about four faz 120 ce) of ‘lean engine oil into the titer. This wll roduce the time required forthe ol! ‘pressure light to go out. 8 If the motorcycle has a spin-on fiter, Wipe any remaining oil off the Titer sealing area of the crankcase. Coat the gasket on & ew fter with clean engine ol (see ilustra- tion), Install the fiter and tighten It to the ammount listed inthis Chapters Specifications, Before refiling the oil tank, check the old ol carefully. If the oll was drained into a clean pan, small pieces of metal or ‘other material can be easily detected. If the of is vory metalic colored, then the ‘engine is experiencing wear from break- in (new engine) or from insufficient lubrication. f there ae flakes or chips of ‘metal in the oll, then something fs ‘rastically wrong Internally and the ‘engine wil have to be disassembled for Inspection and repair. 10. I the inspection ofthe oll tums up act ing unusual, refil the oll tank to the proper level wth the recommended oll and install the filer cap. Start the engine and let it run for two or three minutes. Shut i off, wait a few minutes, then check the oll level f nec essary, add more oto bring the level up to 98.9 Smoar a fim of clean oll onto the acket surface the Maximum mark. Cheek around the drain lug and fiter housing or leaks, 11. The 0 oll drained from the engine can- ‘ot be reused in its present state and should be clsposed of. Check with your local refuse disposal company, disposal faclity or envi= ronmental agency to see whethor they will accept the ol for recy, Don't pour used oll inte drains or onto the ground. Alter the of has cooled, it can be craned Into a sultable Container (Capped plastic lugs, topped bot ties, mik cartons, tc) for transport to one of ‘these cisposal sites. 10 Valve clearance acjustment (Shovelhead models only) & 1 The vaveclarances mus be checkes an adted nthe cohol 2° Fernove espa pass he engine Seana tenove, a 2. a ted) er dna vaneo sed: Tvcan be nome by ting te ence ovr by hen Put re ee eee ‘Svar whe wating re ipso forora partir ner hon the ae trove down te bores antral tee trovekee ra cyte are ood 3° Ti oor tr avn, cut he a (ee tutto 3 ESxen te et on he iter ast fa con 7° Fn ating srw no the ter Sy ute pushed an be moved : | Som un the adsing sre ot nt the pny baton the soins ae putes my gon Fe rotten he lst on the austing screw ance and hese the pues Ther suid rote up-nidoan Diy bt you sho be slo eae ne 10.8 Push down on the spring retainer (1) ‘and pull out the keeper (2) ‘ut any binding, 10 Adjust the remaining valve clearances in the same manner 11 When all of the clearances are comect, install the pushrod covers. Intalation isthe reverse of removal - be sure te ends ofthe ‘covers are seated properly against the wash- 11 Contact breaker points (1970 through 1978) - check 5 and adjustment 1. Ifthe contact breaker points are badly burned, pitted or worn, they should be roplaced with a new set. This also applies i the fiber het that ras onthe breaker cam is badly worn. 2. Detach the point cover (see ilustra- tion), Prior to removal, mark the baseplate in relation tothe distributor body or engine side cover with a scribe or permanent falt-tip marker so the plate can be reinstalled inthe ‘same positon. This wil eliminate the need to retime the ignition ater reassembly. 3. On 1870 models only, remove the two Sorews that secure the base plate to the ds- tibutor body. When the condenser wire ana «80 the pushrod cover can be lifted up to get atthe ifters (Shovelhead engine only) Every 2,000 miles 1°13 11.2 The breaker point cover is retained by two serews the extemal primary wire have been discon. nected, the moving contact point will no longer be attached atte far end by it return ‘Spring so it can be Ited out of postion. The fixed point can be detached by removing the screw that attaches it tothe base pate, Note the arangement of the various washers and insulators; if they're installed wrong, the Bonts could short out, eausing faire ofthe ignition system. 4 On 1977 and later models, remove the baseplate mounting screws, it out the base ate and disconnect the primary wire (see lutration). 5 Pul the condenser wie off the terminal post, unhooking the moving contact point Feturn spring atthe same time. Lift of the ‘moving contact point and release the fixed Contact by removing the single retaining serew through the base, Note the arrange- ‘ent of the insulators and other washers 10 prevent them from being installed in the wrong order. 8 Instalaion Is the reverse ofthe removal -_ailis 41444 Detach the primary wire from the terminal (arrow), then remove the base ‘plate with the points attached steps, Make sure the Insulators ae installed inthe correct positions. i's a good idea to place a small amount of dstrbutor cam lube fn the pivot pin before instaling the moving Contact arm, 7. ‘Adjustthe point gap wit a feeler gouge ‘when the points are completely opened by ‘one ofthe cam lobes (see Mlustration) 8 Logsen the lock sorew at the base of the fixed contact point and mave the point by Inserting a soreueriver ito the adjusting sot and turning ft (see illustration). Adjust the points unl the specified gapis obtained, then retighten the lock screw and recheck the gop. 9 Tum the engine over uni the points aro completely opened by the other cam lobe land check the gap. The gap should be fexactly the same for both cam lobes, I it isn, the cam is worn and must be replaced wth anew one, Every 2,500 miles (4,000 km) 411.7 Check the point gap witha feeler gauge - ifthe gap is correct, the fee ‘gauge will just slide between the contacts witha sight amount of drag 11.8 Lockscrew (1) and breaker point adjusting lot (2) locations Check 1 Drive belt tension should be checked, ‘and adjusted if necessary betore every ride fas described in Daily (pe-rde) checks at the beginning of this manual, as well as at the spectfied maintenance interval 2. The tension should be checked and adjusted with the bike on the ground and ‘weight equivalent to the rider on the seat “The belt should be cold, 20 don't check ten- sion or make the adjustment right after the Dike as been ridden. 3. Harley-Davidson recommends using a tension gauge to provent the belt from being set too loose. This can allow the belt o jump fone or more sprocket teeth, which will dam= age the belt. 4° To check belt tension, apply 10 tbs. (4.54 kg) upward pressure on the center of the lower belt un atthe pont ofthe viewing window if equipped) and measure the amount the belt moves, Wrte this measure- rent down, 5 Fil the bike to change the belt position land repeat the measurement along every few inches of the belt. Do this along the entire belt until you locate the tightest point (where the belt moves least). At this point, compare the measurement to the range listed In this CChapter’s Spectications. 8 Ifthe bolt i not within the specitiod range, adjust. Adjustment 7 Pull the cotter pin out of th then loosen the nut. 8 Turn the Balt adjuster bots (atthe rear ‘of the swingarm, one on each side of the bike) In equal amounts untl the belt tension is corect, then tighten the locknuts. Be sure to tighten or loosen the adjusters evenly so the rear whee Isn't cocked sideways. 8 Chock the bot tonson, 430 Tighten the reat axle locknut tothe ini- tial torque listad inthis Chapters Specifica- tions, then instal tho cotter pi. If necessary, tighton the nut ust enough to align the holes ‘0 the cotter pin can be installed, but don't ‘exceed the maximum torque listed inthis Chapter’s Spectications. le nut, 1914 Every 2,500 miles 1211 Check the drive bott for wear ‘and damage A) Haine cracks and minor chipping in the internal areas of tha teth (ot the ‘outer surface) are acceptable, but check the bet often Cracks or other damage fo the tooth Surfaces require belt replacement Frayed edges ora beveled outer ecga arv acceptable, but chock the bait otten ‘Stone damage in the canter ofthe bolt is acceptable, but replace the belt ‘it stone damage is onthe edge Warning: Overtightening the nut ‘could cause the rear whee! bearings to seize, resulting in loss of contro of the motaraycte Inspection 11 Place the transmission in neutral and ‘support the bike with the rear wheel off the ‘ground. Rotate the rear wheel slowly and ‘check each belt and sprocket tooth for wear ‘or damage (see illustration). The folowing conditions don't require bel replacement, but the bel should be given frequent, com plete inspections 4) Hairine cracks in the intemal portion of the belt teeth (the cracks don't pene trate the outer layer of the tooth = the layer that contacts the sprocket) 1b) Minor chips inthe internal tooth materi atthe ends of teeth ©) Frayed fabric along the edges, with strands of cord exposed 1) Bevel wear ofthe outer edge ofthe belt 9) Stone damage in the mide ofthe belt 12. The following conditions require bet replacement: 48) Cracks that penetrate the outer layer of 2 tooth ) Missing teetn «) Hook (uneven) wear of teeth ©) Outer ayer of teath wom through 2) Stone damage on the edge ofthe belt 12 Check the sprocket teeth for chips and ‘other damage, especially it the damaged area has sharp edges. If the damage is Severe enough that thas left pattern on the bel, replace the belt and sprockets, 14 'Iteoth are missing or hoaviy damaged, 418:18a Slide back the rubber boots for ‘access tothe throttle cable adjusters replace the belt and sprockets. 18 Check the chrome surface of the ‘sprockets for wear. I you cant tall whether the chrome has worn off, drag a sharp too! (kite ip or nal) across the surface inthe val- ley between two teeth I the chrome is good, it wort be visibly scratched by the tool. Ifthe chrome has worn away and the aluminum is ‘exposed, the to9l wil leave a shiny serateh In this case, replace the belt and sprockets. freeplay - check and 1 Throttle operation/grip adjustment Check {With the engine stopped, make sure the throttle grip rotates easily from fuly closed to fully open with the front wheel turned at var~ ‘us angles. The grip should return automat cally rom fully open to fully closed when released. W the throttle sticks, check the thvottle cables for eracks or kinks in the housings. Also, make sure the inner cables are clean and wel-ubrcated, 2 Check for a small amount of teeplay at the grip and compare the freeplay to the Value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Adjustment Spiral throttle control 3. Early models use a spiral-type throttle. ‘control with a single throttle cable. It can be Identified by the screw inthe end of the grip (rum type throttle cortrois have an end cap, rather than an end sere) 4 “When tumed by hand and released, the throttle grip must return to the closed (ile) Position. There should be 1/4-inch between ‘the carburetor contol clip and that contol col withthe throttle closed. not, oF the ofp ‘urs sti the aro should be disassembled, ‘leaned ard inspected (see Chapter 3) Single cable, drum type throttle control 5 When turned by hand and released, the 13 Loosen the locknuts (right arrows) ‘and turn the adjusters (left arrows) throttle grip must retum tothe closed (ile) postion. It dowsc’t return freely, back off the fton screw unt i does, 8 the throttle grip tums sity, orf back ing off the fetion sorew dosen cause ft to retum freely, it should be clsassembled, cleaned and inspected (eee Chapter 3) 7 Locate the throtle cable's connection at ‘he carburetor. Watch it wile turing the han

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