This is always the best recharge procedure:

Vacuum the AC system, whilst the vacuum pump is running close off your low and high side ports on your gauge set
(trapping the vacuum inside the AC system).

Connect your bottle or can of refrigerant, open the bottle or can and then on your gauge set purge the Schrader
valve. (This ensures you do not introduce any air into the AC system only refrigerant) (If using cans you need to close
your gauge set off each time and repeat the above process each time so only refrigerant goes into the AC system)

1. Set the car up as follows:

AC set to cold
On face
On a medium fan speed
On recirculate
AC ON button or snow flake ON
All windows up except drivers side
Blue LED switch to block refrigerant flow to the cabin OFF (this makes it chiller only mode)
Any AUTO functions must be OFF (Auto is basically a button saying I don’t know what I’m doing control everything
from temperature to fan speed).

2. Base charge the car with the factory charge weight

3. Start the car (car should be in chiller only mode) Car should be outside or very well ventilated (we need the AC
condenser to have air flow, being trapped in a garage even with a door open etc is not as good as outside) engine
fans should be on full in your tune, as well as intercooler pump if the tune allows you control of the pump.

4. Clear your sight glass on the drier whilst in chiller only mode.

5. Wait 5min or so for intercooler fluid temps to come down (if you have a huge tank eg over 12L (3gal) empty it
down as much as possible so you don’t have to wait ages and any changes made to the system will be faster. You can
fill the tank up later to whatever volume.

6. Once the fluid is getting nice and cold what is happening here is the TX valve on the chiller is starting to close up
and let less and less refrigerant through the chiller as it gets colder (this is good). Now flick the blue LED switch ON
this will now be cabin and chiller mode. Wait 60sec there will be an initial heat load shock to the AC system from
turning on the cabin you will need to wait for this to stable out for 60sec.

7. Now once stable you will need to add refrigerant to the AC system, at this point we want to reference several
things:
1. Our AC pressures (the higher they are the hotter the system is as long as we have cooling in the cabin, pressures
can be high when undercharged, when you add refrigerant if this is lowering the pressure this is good.)
2. Our drier on most cars is relevant (some cars will need to be ignored) on “most” cars we want to clear the bubbles
to 90-95% and this will be a near perfect charge.
3. Driver and passenger vent feel or temperature. The driver and passenger vents will always have a slight difference
in temperature all cars do as the refrigerant evaporates on 1 side of the cabin evaporator and then travels via
ducting to both sides. When adding refrigerant if this is lowering your vent temps you’re going in the right direction,
if it is raising vent temps you are likely over charging.
4. Our suction line feel temperature right up on the firewall if the liquid line (smaller AC line) isn’t running through
your large line (suction line) if you feel this line (if safe to do so) and it feels nice and cold like beer can cold this
indicates that not only is the refrigerant boiling off for both passenger and driver sides but it is still boiling off in your
suction line. Once you achieve this result the charge in 98% of cases is complete. Adding more refrigerant at this
point will either make it colder or raise pressure and make it hotter.