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    11 views6 pages

    01 Knit2

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    angelam

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    pete ne anes oe ITMA 2003: UHM ITMA 2003 introduced new fabrics and technologies to the knitting sector. nitting By Trevor J. Little, Ph.D. TMA 2003 turned out to be a sig: nificant event for the knitting industry. Towards the end of the exposition, machinery exhibitors indicated they had had more visitors than anticipated, and order activity had exceeded their expectations. Attendees to the knitting area were presented with significantly new and different opportunities for creating new fabrics and entering new markets, Circular Weft Knitting: Fine Gauge Several circular knitting machine exhibitors showed machines with 4 needles per inch in both the cylinder and dial. These very fine-gauge machines appear positioned to com. pete with fine-gauge warp knitting machines. South Korea-based 46 FEBRUARY 2004 TeatileWorldcom Keumyong Machinery Co. Ltd showed its model KILM-108V inter: lock machine with 44 needles per inch in both dial and cylinder. The products made using this machine going into underwear and nightgown market the company Otizio Paolo S.p.A,, Italy, exhibited its JOHNITC in a 30-inch-diameter, 40-gauge version. This single-jersey machine features open-width put-up and automatic roll doffing. Orizio has according to developed a special thin needle of 0.30 millimeters (mr), according to Paolo Fumagalli, sales manager for the United States and China, Terrot Strickmaschinen GmbH, Germany, also showed a 40-gau single-jersey machine. Model $296-1 with open-width roll put-up was Mayer and Cie’s OV 32 QC offers quick cylinder and dial change, shown with a 34-inch diameter, 3.2 ‘our knit actor of — the feeds per diametrical inch, ting tracks and a speed 1,020. A conversion ki SBF296 — for thre fabric is available for this model. ad fleece New Technologies Germany-based Mayer & Cie GmbH é& Co. KG introduced a new concept machine, Model MV 3-3.2 hooked” the latch no longer exists. Instead, two hooks H, which employs a new needle. In this needle positively guided in a cam track relax the stress on the yarn and knitting elements. Referring to the process as Relaxed Knitting,” Mayer & Cie aims there is less wear on the nee dle, and loop formation is more reli able than with the traditional latch needle. The hooked needle has the action of a compound needle, but the sliding com needle is now a hooked element. The MY 3-3.2 His available in models with up to 44 needles per inch according to Bill Davis, Mayer & Cie’s US agent. The circular knitting machine can now be equipped with a suite of enhancements to provide better quality and flexibility. These include © servo tape drive; central stitch contro! pnent of the compound «© electronic take-up settings; © open-width roll put-up to elimi nate center creases; individual feed metering using a DC motor-driven feed unit; and air cleaning around the knitting elements to lengthen needle life Mayer & Cie. Machine Data Acquisition (MDA system, which monitors knitting effi ‘also showed its ciencies and assists with machine scheduling. At the show, the MDA system was demonstrated through an on-line connection to the Delta Textile knitting plant in Egypt Jumbo Rolls, High Speeds Because of the increasing size of fabric rolls on the knitting machine, significant development has been undertaken to rotate the jumbo fabric rolls on the same machine without increasing vibration in the knitting zone, Improved designs from Mon roe, N.C.-based Vanguard Supreme, (Model 4S]4) and Terrot (Model RH216-L) offer machines specifically designed for jumbo roll knitting, Vanguard Supreme, a division of Monarch Knitting Machinery Corp. Bronx, N.Y., exhibited the 4SJ4 HAC12 jumbo roll machine with a speed factor of 1,500 for plain jersey fabric and 1,000 for fleece. The com pany also showed its Filter Flow 2000, which can inerease needle and sinker life two to three times when used with open-end cotton yarn, according to Phil Renda, manager, research and development. Oil consumption also may be reduced by half The 2SR2/H12 high-speed double-knitting machine also was on display. According to Renda, it can produce rib fabries at a speed factor of 1,500 and interlock fabrics at a speed fac tor of 1,200. Mayer & Cie. also offered high-speed knitting with the Relanit 4.0, 2 shown with 2: gauge and four feeds per inch According to Davis, the Relanit 4.0 has a speed factor of 1,500 and also is. equipped with a jumbo roll (500 pounds) take-up system. In addition, the Relanit 4.0 is equipped with servo motors to control the yarn input tape measuring system. Pai Lung Machinery Mill Co. Ltd. Taiwan, exhibited the PL-KS3B-HS single-jersey four-track machine with a 34-inch di 28 gauge, and 102 feeds operating at 36 revolutions per minute (rpm). This model can operate at a speed factor of 1,500 when knitting single-jersey fabric according to Bill Moody, president, Nova Knitting Machinery — Pai Lung’s Monroe, N,C.-based US rep resentative. A kit is available to con vert this model into a fleece machine for knitting fabrics in the 280- to 320 grams-per-square-meter (g/m?) range. This machine has strong mar kets in Canada and Central America, according to Moody. At the show the machine was knitting a fabric in the 200- to 240-g/m: 2: inch finished width The Mayer & Cie. 34-inch-diame- ter MV 4-3.2 II with 108 feeds demonstrated the five components of MCTmatic machine automation yarn speed, stitch length, yarn ten sion, take-down tension, and data storage for repeat orders. On this range with a machine, a new cam system was shown whereby the cam can be attached using a locking pin to speed up changes in camm fess Festool Ti a Oritio Paolo’s JOHN/TC circular knitting machine features automatic roll doffing, Weft-Knit Spacer Fabrics Another new Mayer & Cie. devel opment displayed at ITMA was the OV 32 QC, shown knitting a spacer fabric. This is a cylinder-and-dial machine with quick-change features requiring one person, one shift to change cylinder and dial, according to Davis, Monarch showed its V-LEC6BS model in 32 gauge for spacer fabrics used in intimate apparel. Terrot showed its UCC 5 inch-diameter, 32-gauge, 72-feed double-jersey machine knitting an underwear spacer fabric. Spacer fab- rics have become important in foun dation garments and automotive uphoktery, according to Klaus Kunde, marketing manager. Terrot showed 30- developments for the manufacture of automotive upholstery that can be recycled, The developments are the result of a collaboration within an automotive upholstery supply chain. Pile And Terry Machines Mayer & Cie. exhibited two new machines for the production of terry fabrics. The first — the MPU 0.8 EE — produces fabrics in up to three pile heights using electronic needle and sinker selection. The second — Mayer & Cie/s ful electronic 42-feed, 18-gauge MPU 14 DE — was shown knitting a 300 g/m? double plush jacquard fabric at 14 rpm. The machine was equipped with Mayer and Cie.’s CONI SEP for con. trolling yan input Keumyong showcased its KPJS-III computerized pile loop jacquard machine with direct selection on the sinker to produce a terry effect. The 30-inch-dia 20-gauge, 48-feed ma chine was operating at 20 rpm. The new KYPL-CV fully com- puterized plush jacquard machine from Keumyong was exhibited knitting high-pile fab- ric. The pile is cut by the cylinder needle, and the ground yarn is knitted on the dial, One hundred machines have been sold to a company in Turke the company Monarch’s V-SECPLT12 electron ic jacquard three-height terry machine employs electronic sinker selection to produce the three loop heights — high loop, low loop and no loop. The V-SECPLT12 is avail able in diameters from 26 to 3 es and gauges from 14 to meter according to per inch, according to Ro; technical sales manager and techni cal sales engineer. Orizio Paolo exhibited a 30-inch. diameter, 20-gauge, 44-feed version of its JSVE electronic jacquard terry machine. This model has direct sinker selection controlled by a WAC electronic system. The main markets to date for these machines are Turkey, South America and Iran, according to Fumagalli Tertle World FEeRUARY 2004 47 Terrot echibited a computerized double- jersey transfer machine, the UCC 124ST. Garment-Length Machines A trend evident at TMA 2003 was an interest in promoting fine-gauge garment machines for the produc tion of lightweight knit tops. Gar offered in a 34-inch diameter and in gauges ranging from 12 to 18 nee. dles per inch Monarch exhibited its V na 34-inch-diat AERC eter, 18-gauge ver sion with a speed factor of 600, ‘equipped with three-position needle selection on dial and cylinder, syn chronized or delayed timing by auto timing system, and four-color strip ing and knit-in draw thread Monarch’s V-LEC 3 DGTY2, the fully electronic version of the garment length machine, has bidirectional transfer at all feeds and three-posi tion selection on cylinder and dial The Mayet & Cie. OVJA 1.1 TTRB with electronic needle selection on both dial and cylinder plus transfer is the company’s solution to fine-gauge knitting of garment blanks with sep arating yams. The 34-inch-diameter 36-feed, 18-gauge machine was shown knitting a 150 gim? garment ata speed of 14 rpm. Terrot exhibited the UCC 124ST, a puterized double-jersey transfer machine. According to Kunde, this model offers the highest versatility combined with computerized jacquard patterns for better-quality sweaters, with or without separation thread. The machine was shown in a 38-inch-diameter, 24-feed, 12-gau version with five-color striping and 48 FEBRUARY 2004 TextileWorld.com electronic racking of + six needles, operating at a speed factor of 608. Coupled with the dual transfer from cylinder to dial, this machine can productively produce typical flat-knit structures, according to Kunde Seamless Italy-based Santoni S.p.A. exhibited its SMB TOP2, a single-jersey, 17. inch-diameter, 24-gauge machine with eight feeds, Santoni is known as a pioneer in the development of seamless fine-gauge knitwear for underwear, swimwear, sportswear outerwear and homewear, according to Fiorenzo Sandonini, marketing manager for the Santoni Group. San toni also showed a 16-inch-diameter, 15-gauge, double-jersey SMD At ITMA, Santoni featured new software th assists the design process, and also presented improve ments that make its knitting equip: ‘ment fast (1,430 speed factor is avail able) and flexible. The major market is lingerie, but Sandonini indicated there is a lot of interest from brands such as Nike and Columbia Sportswear Orizio Paolo exhibited its BS model, a 15-inch-diameter, 28 gauge, eight-feed machine for the production of seamless underwear, as well as sportswear and swimwear. Each feed has six-finger striping, three-position knitting and electronic needle selection Steiger Ltd., Switzerland, exhibit ed its Aries machine at Paris-based Lectra’s stand. This electronic flat machine has up to 24 electronically and step-motor-controlled yarn car riers, which, in conjunction with a straight feed-yarn path created by eliminating the bow connections, enables unlimited knitting of special ty fabrics and structures, according to Gerard Steiger, senior head techni cian. Steig collaborated with Lectra to offer KnitExpert software, The package, comprised of Lectra’s Prima Vision and Steiger’s Model software, allows for 3-D structure, and jacquard and intarsia pattern design, Yarn Control From Memminger-IRO Germany-based Memminger-IRO GmbH storage feeders and positive yam-control feeders have been Used on leading brands of knitting machines. At ITMA 2003, the com: pany featured three new products The new Memminger Combi Feeder (MCF) was developed for circular knitting machines. The MCF is a combination device for both positive feed and storage feed. The Posttive feed mode is used for basic ‘constructions in which the demand for yam is constant, and the device is driven by toothed belts, When yarn consumption is intermittent, the device's DC motor continuously monitors and regulates yarn storage up to a yarn speed of 450 m/min The new DIGI ONE electronic yam feeder is designed for hosiery and undergarment knitting. The feed: ler can accommodate bare and cov ered elastomer yarns, as well as re lar yarns. The control sys tors and establishes the yarn tension requited, and the DIG! ONE senses the tension and adjusts the yarn speed to yield constart knitting ten sion, according to Don Thomas, sales manager, IRO Inc, MemmingerIRO's Charlotte-based sister company. The DIGI ONE can operate in a ‘graduated tersion mode. The mini mum-to-maximum tension range can be divided into 200 steps and pro- grammed into the electronic yam feed- er. This is an important advance for knitting of different loop sizes on fne- gauge hosiery and underwear machines, ‘Memminger-RO also featured a new fully electronic yarr-length and yam-tension meter, the MLT- Wesco, It is designed for use on cireular knitting machines and also can measure the exact speed of Protechna Herbst GmbH & Co. KG Protechna Herbst GmbH & Co, KG, Germany, offers monitoring equipment for a wide range of tex- tile manufacturing machinery The Laserstop 4080 on display at ITMA is a new laser light barrier sys- tem that comes in a variety of con- figurations to conduct needle surveil lance, sense fabric defects, control welt insertion, detect broken threads, and control the elastomer beam on the warp-knitting machine. Protechna’s new Tensoscan pro- vides yarn survellance and thread ten- sion monitoring for warping and beaming operations. The Tensoscan travels across the yam sheet, and the integrated thread probe measures the A Better Rib Rib fabrics continue to be popular for a wide range of apparel. One interesting new feature is the ability to change from plain to rib and maintain the same stitch size. Monarch exhibited the VC-SDR (stitch differential rib) machine with two cylinder stitch tracks offering, knit, tuck and miss, which enables two different stitch lengths to be selected at consecutive feeds. It was exhibited in a 30-inch-diameter, 18- gauge version with 62 feeds, operat- ing at a speed factor of 900. Monarch’s V-7E00 model, known as the interlock/inter-rib, is designed to offer quick changeover from inter: Jock-based structures to rib-based structures. The machine was shown in a 30-inch-diameter, 20-gauge ver- sion with 72 feeds. The V-7E00 has five-position knitting — tuck, welt, support, and two knit positions for delayed and synchronized ti and is equipped with a two-track RDS cam system. Pai Lung exhibited the PL- XRTCJ/DI/CS6 for rib transfer mesh structures. The 34-inch-diameter, 18- gauge, 50-feed fully electronic dou- ble-jersey machine was shown knit: ting rib mesh in various mesh designs in the 180- to 260-g/m? weight range. ‘tension of each individual thread in the yarn sheet. The tensions on the individual yarns are dsplayed together “withthe acceptable qualty levels determined by the warping depart- iment. Yam separation distance can be as low as 07 mm to be able to mea- sure each yarns tension, according to Wolfgang Kolbl. sales executive Protechna also markets sensing and monitoring systems for kitting ‘equipment. Such systems include the contact-ree Scanner 5390 for warp knitting machines, Camscan I! for warping, Warpstop for yarn fauits during warping, and ProCam $310 for optical on-line fabric inspection fn fabric-producing machines. Warp Knits, Electronics Warp knitting developments at [TMA 2008 focused on spacer fabrics, electron- ies, technical textiles and increased production speed for basic fabrics. Germany-based Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH intro- duced a new approach to nesting the guide bars on multi-bar jacquard lace machines and multi-bar lace machines. Known as string bars, the ‘guides are mounted in single nests of six guides, which are moved via strings to motors at the side of the machine. This permits much greater patterning capability, especially when coupled with the jacquard lace bar, according to the company. Karl Mayer's Textronica Lace 66/1/36 has 66 total nested bars, one jacquard bar and 36 pattern guide bars in front of the fall plate. It is used for the pro- duction of artistic and narrow lace fabrics such as those used for foun- dation garments and trims. The Fas- cination Lace (FL) 20/16 comes equipped with 16 string bars and is used for the production of functional underwear fabrics. In recent years, the warp knitting machine has made significant advances towards becoming fully electronically controlled. Karl Mayer's TL 66/1/36 features electron ic beam control, electronic take-up and electronically shogged main bars, as well as the new electronic string bars. Italy-based Comez S.p.A. exhibit- ed the Decortronic 1000/EL crochet ‘machine featuring up to 10 weft bars with electronic control. Comez also exhibited the Decortors 1000/EL model featuring eight electronic weft bars and a tassel twisting attach- ment. Comez technology, coupled with ComezDraw design software, has produced a wide range of raschel-crochet machines for produc ing decorative narrow fabrics and Innovative decorative fringes. Warp-Knit Spacer Fabrics ‘Warp-knit spacer fabrics have sig- nificant potential in many industrial textile markets. Karl Mayer's HDR 6 EL model, a double-needle-bar raschel machine with six guide bars and electronic guide control, is spe- cially designed for spacer fabrics. The HDR 6 EL can produce “HighDis- tance” spacer fabrics in thicknesses up to 60 mm in the spacing between the guide bars. The spacing can be altered continuously with additional adjustments to the guide bar assem- bly, and the spacer guide bar can lap over 18 needle spaces. Germany-based Liba Maschinen fabrik GmbH exhibited the DG 506- 15 model for the production of dou ble-needle-bar spacer fabrics. This, machine comes equipped with six guide bars and produces a spacer fabric in the 15-mm space between needle bars. It is available in widths of 84 and 130 inches, Warp-knit spacer fabrics are very different from weft-knit spacer fab- rics due to the guide bar lap capabili- ty, which yields a resilient structure for repeated compression applica tions. In particular, spacer fabrics are considered appropriate for shoe and upholstery applications, Warp- and weft-insertion warp knits continue to be in cemand for the production of technical textiles, including geotextiles, Liba showed the HS-1-ST model knitting at 1,800 rpm and inserting yarns measur- ing up to 2,000 denier. Karl Mayer exhibited its Biaxial NM Malimo technology for weft insertion with the option to add chopped fibers and vary the inser tion angle. In addition, Karl Mayer showed the RS 2 (3) MSUS-V geotextile fabric machine feeding a needlepunched nonwoven fabric as the substrate and adding warp- and weft-insertion yams of up to 37,400 decitex for the weft inser tion, The intended applications are road and rail stabilization; construction of bank reinforce ‘ments; and coating carriers for pro- tective suits tents and awnings Warp-knitting have reached the 3,500-rpm benchmark. speeds Monitoring Instruments From Appalachian Appalachian Electronic Instrur ments Inc, Fairlea, W. Va, offers a range of products for textes, medical, railroad, mining and nuciear instrumentation. At ITMA 2003, ‘Appalachian featured seven new ‘or significantly improved products in addition to other standard products The company/s new warp scanner Provides a more cost-effective approach to end-break detecton in warping. The operator inputs the end count ito the WarpSean control. and the processor scans the total end count several ies per second to very F the sensed count does nt agree with the input end count, the warper is stopped and the end breaks identified (on the lquid cnysta splay screen, The Yarn Inspector 600 isan improved version used for lose inspection of warps at high speeds. The device uses a visible lace ight source and utra-senstive photo detector according to Mike McClung, vice pres dent, marketing and sales. The Yarn Inspector 600 aso can be used on elastomer yams to detect broken ends. The 20MP Scannairis an updated version that detects warp ends that break, for example, dunng warp knit ting or weaving uses a laser beam as the sensor, and, according to McClung, can sense a |S-denier yam break across a 180-inch mactine McClung said Appalachian also has upgraded ts ASM-|2 warpknt travers: ing scamer by incucing its own com- munication contro box and features to make the system brushless and wireless Appalachian specaizes in tension control for warping creels, and contin ues to enhance its technology for warp- ing tenson control. The programmable Tersion Control System permits the user to contro individual yer tensions, aswell as establsh zones of tension fFom front to back ofthe warping cree and give constant tension across the yam sheet. The system incudes sensors to detect broken ends atthe crel ‘Appalachian also introduced two new systems for the carpet industry TulfiScan is designed to detect carpet defects during tuftng. t can detect missing yams on carpet and also can be used with sculptured carpet constructions. TuftVision uses high speed video processing to detect change in carpet density and surface defects to reduce mend lengths and improve overall carpet quality 50 FEBRUARY 2004 TextleWerldcom Groz-Beckert’s new patented litespeed knitting needle Karl Mayer’s HKS 2-3 for the pro- duction of two-bar swimwear and lingerie fabrics was demonstrated operating at 3.500 rpm. Liba exhib- ited its Copcentra 2K-F model with two bats, also operating at 3,500 rpm. The Copcentra 2K-E is fitted with a carbon-filled needle bar, and is used mainly for the production of elastic swimwear and activewear fabrics, according to the company. Needle Technology Groz-Beckert GmbH, Ger- many, introduced the patented, Jonger-lfe litespeed circular knitting machine needle at ITMA. According to the company, in tests conducted by machine manufacturers and knit ting mills, the needle has reduced machine temperature by 15 to 20 percent and needle energy consump- tion by 10 to 20 percent. The lower operating temperatures make fixing machine problems or performing a needle or sinker change much easier. New Opportunities? TTMA 2003 was a source of many new innovations for the knitting industry. Many other vendors and existing technologies also were evi dent in the area of knitting. The advances described here will yield a new wave of opportunities for many sectors of the industry, Advances in electronics clearly have given the knit ting industry many new products and the potential to enter into new mar- kets. Seamless and garment-length machines offer a new stream of inno. vations. Spacer fabrics have the potential to make significant inroads into the foundation and upholstered fabrics markets. It is now up to the industry to invest in technology that will serve the needs of the market. [i] Eddtor’s Note: Trevor| Lite is head ofthe

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