Gianduia

By
Alberto Simionato
 Why Gianduia ?
Because I think it’s a product that it is barely known outside Italy.
Indeed, I often talk to foreign colleagues who don’t know the
recipe, let alone its history.

And that’s the most fascinating aspect of this incredible product,

born from the ingenuity of some chefs who, faced with a practical
need, embodied the saying "making a virtue of necessity",
enshrining Gianduia in history and making it a “virtuous”
chocolate.

In addition to the technical aspects of the recipe, I’m excited by

anything related to its origins, production, the difficulties and
advantages it poses for producers, the historical method favoured,
and above all the ingredients and their relationship with the
natural environment. Because basically, everything depends on
nature, and we should remember that more often. Every single
ingredient we select for our recipes is the fruit of mother nature,
the rhythmic alternation of the seasons, different microclimates,
the delicate balance that regulates fauna and flora, and so on. We
could therefore say that nature is responsible for the quality of
the products we make.

Gianduia Cacao Barry® Alberto Simionato

Chef Cacao Barry® 3
History of the Gianduia
Let's get back to the story. « As far back as 1585, the year
in which cocoa arrived in Europe for the first time, chocolate
established itself as an elite product, the preserve of the clergy
and the aristocracy. It was an exotic product, gown in very small
quantities and not easily imported to the old continent. Between
1700 and 1750 cocoa spread rapidly throughout Europe, above
all France, Spain and Italy, as evidenced by the proliferation of the
Bassano majolica ceramics and fine Capodimonte porcelain from
which the precious nectar was traditionally drunk.
Let’s leap forward in time from the 18th century to 21 November
1806, where we find Napoleon Bonaparte overcome by
enthusiasm for his victory over the Prussians. Driven by this and
forgetting his recent defeat at Trafalgar, Napoleon takes pen
and paper and dashes off a decree from Berlin. The document,
which goes down in history as the "Continental System", forbids
all contact and commercial exchange with Britain and British
colonies for the following 10 years, as well as the docking of
British ships in French-controlled ports.
In a Europe marked by the whirlwind of the Revolution and the
Napoleonic Wars, colonial goods become a rarity and luxury,
forcing a radical change in eating habits. A typical example is
sugar, described by the American Sidney W. Mintz (in "Sweetness
and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History") as a rarity
in 1650, a luxury in 1750 and an indispensable necessity in
1850, by which point Italy Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour,
was encouraging cultivation in Piedmont. However, there’s no
alternative to cocoa.
Gianduia Cacao Barry®
It was then that Piedmontese confectioners had a winning idea:
This is how, in 1812, a year before the defeat of Napoleon, a
mixing their delicious toasted hazelnuts from the Langhe with
thirty-year-old Istrian moved to Venice to put his ingenuity to
cocoa, thus obtaining a soft and velvety paste ideal for small
the test and gave life to a dark, sweet dough. In 1813, having
chocolates. The city of Savoy was famous for two things: its
patented his invention, he published a booklet under the name
carnivals - gastronomic fairs that lasted for days - and the city’s
Antonio Bazzarini with the ambitious title: practical technical
Commedia dell’Arte mask, Gianduia, who takes his name from
plan for the national substitution of chocolate. Inside was a
Giôan della dôja, a name that means "Giovanni della dôja", or
recipe: "a handful of well-toasted almonds, a few lupin beans
“John of the wine jug”. And since in 1865 one of these parties
almost blackened on the stove, wheat and sugar. gind well using
was chosen to inaugurate the new recipe, what better name to
a mortar". We’re looking at the first chocolate substitute and the
baptize these new delicacies with than Gianduia? »
embryo of Gianduiotto chocolates. Bazzarini chose almonds for
his experiments since they were the most common oleaginous
Clara e Gigi Padovani Giunti, Gianduiotto Mania. La via italiana
nut in his area at the time, but fifty years later in Turin the same
al cioccolato: storia, fortuna, ricette, Giunti Edition, Atlanti
method is used to make the first Gianduiotto chocolates.
illustrati medi Collection, 2007, 196 pages.
But the real surprise for us comes in a short footnote that specifies
"if you want, you can add a third of cocoa to the dough".
In the nineteenth century everyone wants chocolate, but the
cocoa from the Americas comes measured by dropper and
becomes more and more expensive, despite the end of the
continental blockade in 1816.
Alberto Simionato
Chef Cacao Barry® 5
1. Tutta Gianduia
Chocolate crumble
250 g Butter
Praline glaze
250 g Water
224 g Flour 625 g Hazelnut praline 50%

Tutta
250 g Almond powder 375g Glucose syrup 60 de
250 g Brown sugar muscovado 25g Gel 180 bloom
4 g Salt 125g Gelatin mass 180 bloom
25 g Extra Brute cocoa powder

Gianduia
Bring water and glucose to 103° and pour over the praline.
Bring the butter at room temperature. Leave it cool down at 65-70°, add the gelatin, and emulsify
Add the powder and mix. correctly.
Roll out to 3.5 mm 40 x 98 mm and bake at 160°C for Glaze at 35 °C.
20 minutes.
Dark Gianduia mousse
Hazelnut Bavaroise 130 g Fat milk
70 g Fat milk 40 g Yolks
40 g Yolks 100 g Piémont hazelnut praline 50% Lenôtre
100 g Hazelnut praline 50% 220 g Cuba Origine 70% cocoa dark couverture chocolate
4 g Gel 180 bloom 440g Semi-whipped cream
180 g Semi-whipped cream
Bring to 83° the milk, the yolks, and the hazelnut praline.
Bring to 83° the yolks and the hazelnut praline. Pour over the chocolate and emulsify with a cutter or minipimer.
When the mix reaches 70°, add the gelatin. When the emulsion reaches 39°, add the semi-whipped cream.
At 38° add the semi-whipped cream.

Hazelnut Crunch
Recipe for 16 bars
75 g Butter
75 g Sugar
25 g Milk
25 g Glucose syrup
12 g Skimmed powdered milk
To taste g Ground hazelnut

Mix butter, sugar, and powdered milk, and heat to 38-40°.

Add the glucose at 38 ° with the milk, and emulsify well.
Dose 11 -12 g of mix for each mould. Cover with ground
hazelnuts.
Bake at 155° for 18 minutes.

Gianduia Cacao Barry® Alberto Simionato

Chef Cacao Barry® 7
2. The 3 snack
Hazelnut sable breton
500 g Butter
Pistachio sablé breton
500 g Butter

The 3
500 g Sugar 500 g Sugar
500 g Hazelnut powder 400 g Whole peeled pistachios
500 g Weak flour 100 g Powdered peeled almonds
14 g Baking 500 g Weak flour
75 g Eggs 12 g Baking

Snack
40 g Yolks 75 g Eggs
40 g Yolks
Mix the butter at room temperature with the flour previously
mixed with the baking. Mix the frozen pistachios with the flour and the baking
Add the hazelnut powder and the sugar, and finally the eggs. In the planetary, at the butter at room temperature and the
Mix well. almond powder.
Leave to cool for at least 6-8 hours. Slowly knead without incorporating air. At the end, add the eggs
Roll out to a thickness of 8 mm, cut 98 x 18cm, and place in the and the sugar.
silicone mould. Mix together well.
Bake at 155° for 20 minutes. Roll out to a thickness of 8 mm, cut 98x18cm, and place in the
silicone mould.
Hazelnut gianduia
400 g Zéphyr™ 34% cocoa white chocolate Pistachio gianduia
100 g Hazelnut pure paste 210 g Pistachios praline 70%
250 g Zéphyr™ 34% cocoa white chocolate
Bring the ingredients to 45°C. 40 g Cocoa butter
Precrystallize at 26.5° and pour over the baked sablé inside the
silicone mould. Bring the ingredients to 45°C.
Place the structure sheet and leave to set for at least 8 hours, Precrystallize at 26.5° and pour over the baked sablé.
remove from the mould, and decorate. Place the structure sheet and leave to set for at least 8 hours,
remove from the mould, and decorate.
Almond sable breton
500 g Butter
500 g Sugar
500 g Almond powder
500 g Weak flour
14 g Baking
75 g Eggs
40 g Yolks

Mix the butter at room temperature with the flour previously

mixed with the baking.
Add the hazelnut powder and the sugar, and finally the eggs.
Mix well.
Leave to cool for at least 6-8 hours.
Roll out to a thickness of 8 mm, cut 98x18cm, and place in the
silicone mould.
Bake at 155° for 20 minutes.

Almond gianduia
300 g Zéphyr™ 34% cocoa white chocolate
100 g Almond pure paste

Bring the ingredients to 45°C.

Precrystallize at 26.5° and pour over the baked sablé.
Place the structure sheet and leave to set for at least 8 hours,
remove from the mould, and decorate.

Gianduia Cacao Barry® Alberto Simionato

Chef Cacao Barry® 9
3. Airy gianduiotto
400 g
50 g
Alunga™ 41% cocoa milk couverture chocolate
Cocoa butter
50 g Hazelnut pure paste

Airy
To taste g Ocoa™ 70% cocoa dark couverture chocolate

Filling
Mix the first three ingredients and temper them at 29°.

gianduiotto
Pour in the siphon, shake energetically and dose inside the
mould in a vacuum bag.
Remove the air and leave to cool.

For the coating
With a whisk, mix energetically the Ocoa™ 70% cocoa dark
couverture chocolate precrystallised.
Glaze the gianduiotti and create air vacuum, in order to
burst bubbles.
Leave to set.

Gianduia Cacao Barry® Alberto Simionato

Chef Cacao Barry® 11
The 3 way of making a gianduiotto

1 2 3 We don't
know where
they must
be placed

Gianduia Cacao Barry® Alberto Simionato

Chef Cacao Barry® 13
4. Pistachio cremino
Recipes for 1 square 36 x 36

Pistachio
Light cremino
330 g Pistachios praline 70%
410 g Zéphyr™ 34% cocoa white chocolate
30 g Cocoa butter
770 g Total brut

cremino Melt the chocolate with pistachios praline at 45°, and add the
melted cocoa butter.
Precrystallize the mix at 25°C.

Medium cremino
327 g Pistachios praline 70%
187 g Zéphyr™ 34% cocoa white chocolate
226 g Lactée Barry 35% cocoa milk couverture chocolate
31 g Cocoa butter
770 g Total brut

Melt the chocolate with pistachios praline at 45°, and add the
melted cocoa butter.
Precrystallize the mix at 26°C.

Dark cremino
330 g Pistachios praline 70%
400 g Lactée Barry 35% cocoa milk couverture chocolate
40 g Cocoa butter
770 g Total brut

Melt the chocolate with the pistachio paste.

Precrystallize the mix at 26.5°C.

Assembly
Pour the three layers of cremino in a frame 36 x 36
height 1.5 cm.
As soon as the first layer starts to set pour immediately the
second layer and repeat the same operation for the third.
Don’t leave to set too long, the three layers will detach.
As soon as the last layer crystallizes, cut with a pastry guitar.
If you wait too long you won’t be able to cut it.

Gianduia Cacao Barry® Alberto Simionato

Chef Cacao Barry® 15
5. Three chocolates cremino
White cremino
1190 g Zéphyr™ 34% cocoa white chocolate

Three
510 g Hazelnut pure paste
1700 g Total

Melt the chocolate with the Hazelnut pure paste at 45°.
Precrystallize the mix at 25.5°C.

chocolates
Milk cremino
875 g Lactée Supérieure 38% cocoa milk
couverture chocolate

cremino
375 g Hazelnut pure paste
1250 g Total

Melt the chocolate with the hazelnut paste at 45°.

Precrystallize the mix at 26.5°C.

Dark cremino
541 g Ocoa™ 70% cocoa dark couverture chocolate
309 g Hazelnut pure paste
850 g Total

Melt the chocolate with the Hazelnut pure paste at 45°.

Precrystallize the mix at 28.0°C.

Assembly
Pour the three layers of cremino in a frame 36 x 36 height 3 cm.
As soon as the first layer starts to set pour immediately the
second layer and repeat the same operation for the third.
Don’t leave to set too long, the three layers will detach.
As soon as the last layer crystallizes, cut with a pastry guitar.
If you wait too long you won’t be able to cut it.

Gianduia Cacao Barry® Alberto Simionato

Chef Cacao Barry® 17
6. Five gianduiotto
White gianduiotto
700 g Zéphyr™ 34% cocoa white chocolate

Five
300 g Hazelnut pure paste

Melt the chocolate with the Hazelnut pure paste at 45°.

Precrystallize the mix at 25,5°C.

gianduiotto
Pistachio gianduiotto
600 g Zéphyr™ 34% cocoa white chocolate
400 g Pistachios praline 70%

Melt the chocolate with the Hazelnut pure paste at 45°.

Precrystallize the mix at 25,5°C.

Milk gianduiotto
700 g Lactée Supérieure 38% cocoa milk couverture
chocolate
300 g Hazelnut pure paste

Melt the chocolate with the Hazelnut pure paste at 45°.

Precrystallize the mix at 26.5°C.

Caramel gianduiotto
500 g Zéphyr™ Caramel 35% cocoa white chocolate
200 g Lactée Caramel 31% cocoa milk couverture
chocolate
300 g Hazelnut pure paste

Melt the chocolate with the Hazelnut pure paste at 45°.

Precrystallize the mix at 28.0°C.

Dark gianduiotto
700 g Madirofolo 65% cocoa dark couverture chocolate
300 g Hazelnut pure paste

Melt the chocolate with the Hazelnut pure paste at 45°.

Precrystallize the mix at 29.0°C.

Gianduia Cacao Barry® Alberto Simionato

Chef Cacao Barry® 19
Temperatures for pre-tempering Gianduia
Considering that the pre-tempering of chocolate is the result of
both temperature and time needed to reach that temperature,
and the motion of the mass which triggers the process, the
following can be assumed: chocolate crystallizes differs from how
milk or white chocolate set, because the fats they contain.
Reference table of temperatures
TC-(FS/10)-1 Considering that the pre-tempering of chocolate is the result
TC indicates the pre-tempering temperature of the chocolate of temperature, time needed to reach that temperature,
(dark, milk or white). correct motion of the mass which triggers the process, and and
FS is the percentage of pure dry fruits, and -1 the value of efficient cold point. We can give you an idea of the utilization
additional reduction. temperatures like below.

The milk fat at room temperature is definitely softer than cocoa Here below is the example of a Gianduia obtained from
butter and this slows its crystallization down. For this reason, dark chocolate with 20% pure hazelnuts paste, recipe 1.
when working with milk and white chocolate, the temperature is 31- (20:10=2)-1=28°C pre-tempering temperature of recipe
reduced at the end of the process. number 1. RECIPE GRAMS CHOCOLATE

The addition of nut paste brings oil to the recipe. The oil at room We take now the example of recipe number 2: Chocolate Pure paste % pure paste Dark Milk White
temperature is liquid and hinders the crystallization of cocoa Gianduia with white chocolate and 10% pure hazelnuts paste. 950 50 5 29,5 28,0 27,0
butter. For this reason, in such a case, the temperature needs to In this case the percentage of nuts is 70 instead of 100. 900 100 10 29,0 27,5 26,5
be reduced even further. In absolute terms, this means that out of 10% of praline 850 150 15 28,5 27,0 26,0
7% are nuts.
800 200 20 28,0 26,5 25,5
750 250 25 27,5 26,0 25,0
Here below is the formula to achieve the final temperature of use 28- (10:10=1)-1=27°C pre-tempering temperature of recipe 700 300 27,0 25,5 24,5
30
which requires the right time to reach the temperature, correct number 2. 650 450 35 26,5 25,0 24,0
motion of the mass, and an efficient cold point. 600 500 40 26,0 24,5 23,5
550 550 45 25,5 24,0 23,0
Here below is a table with the final temperatures of use, according
500 500 50 25,0 23,5 22,5
to the type of chocolate and the percentage of nuts.
USE TEMPERATURES

Gianduia Cacao Barry® Alberto Simionato

Chef Cacao Barry® 21
Alberto Simionato
Alberto started moving his first steps in the Pastry world very
early: Immediately after its vocational training he started working
in a bakery and later in an ice-cream laboratory. A couple of
years later he deeply fell in love with Pastry: after working in a
local pastry laboratory he became eager to advance his skills
attending a whole-year course at the Etoile School. There he
discovered the highest Pastry standards. In Cortina he later met
Beduschi who introduced him to the Chocolate World. He further
developed his pastry skills in luxury hotels in Milano Marittima
and in a restaurant in Bergamo. He worked as a Chocolate Chef
at the Stefano Laghi’s laboratory to finally meet Ramon Morato
at the current Chocolate Academy, where in 2010 he started his
path in Barry Callebaut as a consultant and now he is Director at
Chocolate Academy Milano.

Gianduia Cacao Barry® Alberto Simionato

Chef Cacao Barry® 23