Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Keywords: Cosmopolitics
Climate Change
Alterity
Indigeneity
Andes
Bolivia
Corresponding Author's Institution: University College London Centre for the Anthropology of Sustainability, Department of
Anthropology
Abstract: This article explores how cosmological currents contest and converse with one another
to compose a shifting 'cosmoscape' in Kaata, a highland Bolivian community, and at
the national level. The community is experiencing transformation from a world founded
in reciprocal relations between humans and animate mountain 'earth beings' towards
an anthropocene where non-humans comprise 'natural resources' for human
exploitation. Challenging an easy contrast between modernity and animism as reified
'ontologies', I explore the community as a cosmoscape composed of conversations
between contrasting cosmological trends; mountain beings are themselves the result of
cosmopolitical negotiations with the colonial modern state rather than timeless
constructs. In the wider state-level cosmoscape in which the community sits, social
movements contest the tokenistic utilisation of 'earth beings' in contemporary
indigenist legislation with an alternative cosmology in which they are capable of
retribution, a vision contesting extractivism, and revealing similar tensions and
conversations between relational and extractive currents.
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Response to Reviewers:
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Cover Letter
Many thanks for your careful comments on this draft of Cosmoscapes. I agree that the
article is maturing with every revision and am happy to have such clear and
considerate guidance; it will now I hope be ready for publication.
Firstly, I have modified the section on state politics to make it clear how communities
like Kaata participate directly in decision making under the indigenous state, a
fascinating and somewhat unusual situation that merited further exploration. I have
described the Kaatan delegates to the Conamaq assembly in La Paz and their views on
the conflict surrounding the Law of Mother Earth, as well as referencing a NACLA
article on this for further detail on it than I have had space for. I have also squeezed in
a little relevant ethnography on coca, key in motivating the migration of young
people, and in shaping attitudes to the government (President Morales was the head of
the coca growers’ union). This was a feature of earlier drafts that was lost in
successive revisions; I am happy to have restored it!
I have kept the ‘equivocation’ in, explaining the term further as requested. I consider
it is crucial to the article to indicate how indigenous worlding language can be
employed tokenistically without exploring its real ramifications for extractivism; this
is a major issue under an ‘indigenous government’, and another of the particularities
thrown up by the unusual regime in Bolivia, which will be of interest to a wider
research community working on indigeneity, and also forms an informative
counterpoint to Cepek’s work. I have re-introduced his article at the end of the
preceding section, yet have left this ultimate contrast implicit which I believe is more
powerful in stating the contrast explicitly.
I am grateful to the editor for inviting a regional specialist to comment on this draft. I
agree with the implications of the language the reviewer highlights in their opening
paragraph, and have modified those passages accordingly. I also explore the
generational differences more through the explication of coca growing, though my
space to do this here is very restricted!
It is really marvellous to have come across someone familiar with the area through
Jonathan Alderman’s thesis; as the discussion of the mummies occurs only in an
appendix I had not read it myself, though as a contemporary working in the same area
I am of course familiar with his research, and was delighted he knew of the mummies
too. I have spoken to Jonathan about this as well as reading the interview, and he
agrees with my interpretation that his informant is obfuscating Jonathan’s clear and
repeated request for information on Kaata’s mummies. Jonathan agrees that the theft
of the mummies by community leaders was widely known and discussed by the
various villages of the mountain, and in another of the interviews included in this
thesis, a second informant, Aureliano, agrees that terraces below Kaata’s square
belonged to the chullpas who were in caves among them, and taken out certain days
of the week and celebrated. The interview the reviewer refers to is with a leader from
the neighbouring community of Niñokorin, Feliciano. Instead of replying with
reference to Kaata’s mummies, he replies in terms of another dig in Niñokorin at
which mummies were not found, but only shards of pottery!
This is quite typical; as Niñokorin forms part of the major ayllu of Kaata their leaders
collaborate on various matters, so Feliciano is unlikely to detail a theft that would
implicate them, even if he is not actually complicit in it himself. Cases of fraud and
theft among community leaders are sadly quite common and it is in my experience
almost impossible to ask them about it without shutting down communications and
relationships. As for the museum, Feliciano states that it is empty, so it seems to be a
failed attempt.
It is of course true that Bastien specifies Kaata’s mummies were burnt and thrown
into the river by the Spanish. It seems that some remained and were kept a secret by
the community for a very long time, even from Bastien himself (or else he was
entreated to keep quiet about them), which is understandable given that they are
considered to be under threat from outsiders (like Bastien or the Spanish, who as
q’aras occupy a similar category to Kaatan minds despite their spatio-temporal
distance to ours!). I have added a footnote on this, citing the evidence that there were
mummies in Alderman’s work and my own, as well as Llanos Layme’s description -
his article in Spedding’s book is available in the British Library, though is of course
hard to access it was published in Bolivia, as so many publications by ethically
motivated Andean anthropologists!
As regards the minor points, I have removed the reference to the Viracocha pachakuti,
and agree that it was unnecessary. I have left Gose’s description of pachakuti in as it
is part of a quote which deals with other matters more important to the argument; in
any case I believe that his short summary of pachakuti as ‘returning to earth’ is
coherent with the wider explanation of the concept that I detail in this section, and
functions well as a summary. Gose is widely renowned as a very careful scholar; his
work revisits the conclusions that Bastien he claims came across semi-intuitively and
supports them through a formal and factual methodology. I have specified that the
coca traded with the lower villages was not grown there but traded with the valleys.
Where the word q’ara might be misleading, such as in describing the change villagers
are undergoing, I changed this to misti, where necessary- q’ara is the idealised end of
the pole that incorporates mistis too! I believe ‘oblige’ is the best translation in ‘we
must oblige the earth to produce’ - what the person means is that they have to give it
a lot to oblige it to give something back, which it is less willing to do now than
before. Oblige I believe is much better than ‘force’, ‘bind’ or ‘compel’, secondary
suggested translations for the term in the dictionary - humans can’t force earth beings,
only make them aware of their obligations! I have dropped the reference to returns to
mountain spirits for the mine as suggested as I have no space to explore it in sufficient
detail.
I hope this satisfactorily answers your concerns and that you will be happy with the
revised draft of the article.
Best wishes
Etc.
Manuscript
in contemporary Bolivia
ontological premises has followed Stengers’ 2005 call for a cosmopolitics “where
cosmos refers to the unknown constituted by [these] multiple, divergent worlds, and
and climatic crises, and increased extractive activity (Danowski and Viveiros de
Castro 2017, Latour 2017). Studies focussing on ontology have however been
justifiably accused of reifying and isolating indigenous worlds from modernity (Bond
and Bessire 2015, Holbraad and Pedersen 2017). ‘Ontologies’ become troublesome
accommodating flows of ideas, values and things across space and time. Rather than
Such critiques of the Ontological Turn make it clear that we need to build more
one another in specific settings. The material I will analyse here, from the highland
Bolivian village of Kaata, shows that actors have conflicting ideas about mountains,
which are sometimes ‘natural resources’ to be exploited and at others powerful ‘earth
1
beings’ (de la Cadena 2010). Moving away from a reified vision of earth beings as a
cosmopolitical conversations that we can trace to the colonial era, when ancestral and
contested, contextual, and emanate from syncretised colonial visions. I will consider
room for earth beings; I will examine this as a telling case of ‘equivocation’ (Viveiros
de Castro 2004).
I asked the community leaders elected for that year whether they still carried out
weather rituals. Largely they did, even if there are ‘only a few of us up here now to
maintain them’; yet the complex of ceremonial entreaties to stop a deluge in the early
rainy season, inundating new seedlings, could no longer take place. Key to them were
the chullpas, the mummified ancestors which used to be buried below the main
2
square which was once the ‘heart’ of the animate anthropomorphic ‘mountain body’
(Bastien 1979). The chullpas, they told me, ‘ruled over everything here before’.
There were widespread accusations among the villagers that they had been sold by
former community leaders to ‘archaeologists from Cusco’ - a matter which was hotly
argued over.1
frame which allows these mummies to be simultaneously, on one hand, key to the
contemporary cosmology of the village, and on the other, sold by those of its
visible across the community’s activities, and indeed those of the wider ‘indigenous
state’.
actors’ experiences of the world, we can turn to the literary theorist Pavel’s concept
of ‘ontological landscapes’ (1981). Pavel indicates “one cannot avoid the impression
scientific milieux and was constantly conquering new social territories. Pavel thus
1 Bastien (1978) records villagers’ testaments that Kaata’s mummies were burnt and thrown in
the river by the Spanish, though we imagine the community might have succeeded in keeping some of
their treasured mummy bundles hidden over intervening years, a secret even from the anthropologist;
Alderman (2015) concurs that the story of the sale of Kaata’s mummies by local leaders resulting in
changes to the weather was widespread among the villagers of the mountain. We can further add to
local evidence the testament of Llanos Layme (2005) who records a ceremony to stop the rains with
Kaata’s mummies at the centre.
3
strands combine in Kaata in what I call a ‘cosmoscape’ of surfacing and subsumed
about earth beings, showing how the internationally resonant idea that oil is, for the
Cofán of Ecuador, the blood of buried earth beings was constructed by Cofán actors
ideas about ‘earth beings’ can be in a continual state of change and dialogue with
‘made up’ by Cofán activists, is taken literally by international actors, and widely
part of the Cofán should not surprise us. ‘Indigenous’ thought in Latin America is
strategically claimed (Urban and Scherzer 1991; Postero and Zamosc 2004).
writing the pachamama or ‘mother earth’ into the Ecuadorian constitution is also
4
interpretations. I will consider how the Kaatan cosmoscape merges into that of the
internationally as a radical measure making the earth a legal subject with rights, and
convictions are expressed circumstantially does not mean that belief in these earth
actors for their own ends: it means that different worlds come to the fore in certain
moments and contexts; that they are in short, cosmopolitical. Reality is fragmented,
and many worlds can be at play in the same moment, contesting each other for
contrasting ontological currents surface in certain contexts and times. The mountains
are sometimes earth beings, yet in other contexts open cast mining is permissible, as
is selling the mummies who ‘ruled over everything’ until a short time ago. I propose
to the fore contextually. In affixing the suffix ‘scape’, I draw on Ingold’s elaboration
ancestral beings”, furnishing humans with origins and destiny points, an “ordered
network of places”, which “can possess meanings at different levels” (Ingold 2000:
53-4). I also draw on Appadurai’s (1990) ‘scapes’, which convey a fluid irregular
character; they are deeply perspectival constructs that don’t look the same from every
and change.
5
A Kaatan Cosmoscape: changing selves and cosmos in Kaata
Kaata, an ayllu2 of around a hundred families, sits around 3600m above sea
level among the snow-capped mountains of Apolobamba, in the north of the state of
La Paz. Joseph Bastien (1978), in a now classic ethnography, explored how the
mountain on which the village sits was a ‘metaphorical’ body with organs. Kaata was
the ‘stomach’ of this mountain deity, producing potatoes key to the sustenance of the
villages at other ecological levels, exchanged for coca traded from the low-lying
valleys by the villages at the ‘legs’ of the mountain, and meat from the herders at its
‘head’, in a classic Andean ‘vertical economy’ (Murra 1975). The Qollahuaya healers
of the region were famed for their skill in divination, locating illness and misfortune
in the human body by throwing coca leaves, or cutting open a guinea pig and reading
the spots on its liver. The pertaining part of the mountain body could then be cured,
ensuring an analogic cure in the plaintiff. In this way we might say that the landscape
Bastien describes is fractal, another expression of the ‘symmetry across scale’ Allen
Villagers tell me of the mountain body metaphor they ‘did use to say this, but
do not think it any more’, often remembering the idea with affection. In many ways
however the mountain remains agentive, and the spatial orientations and attributes of
its metaphorical body still have some standing in terms of their characteristics.
Powerful ritual specialists still come from the ‘head’ of the mountain to preside over
Kaata’s ceremonies, the realm of the condors and snow capped heights. Kaata still
produces the potatoes that were the stomach of the mountain, though the trade with
2
An ayllu is commonly taken to mean the collective encompassing a community and their lands.
6
the lower and upper levels has declined, as the upper ayllus have become wealthy
Researching in Kaata between 2010 and 2014, I was told that ‘everything is
changing’; what the villagers called ‘climate change’ was an inseparable component
of a mood of the world, transforming the entire landscape and indeed cosmos of the
village. This encompasses changes to weather and crops, as well as human activities
like tending the soils with chemicals, and shifting economic practices, in a seamless
potatoes, wheat, barley, beans, peas and maize on terraced fields on the steep slopes
of Mount Kaata. As the climate warms, the upper level at which potatoes are grown
increases every year, and the maize cultivated at the lowest and warmest levels is
every year ‘climbing’ the slopes. Most young people now live and work outside the
their youngest children. Many young people migrate to the lowlands to cultivate the
cash crop coca, the principle ingredient in cocaine. Middle-aged men often move
between Kaata and La Paz, and return to carry out community offices for a year,
serving in one of six rotating authority roles which all must take in their turn in to
attain full membership of the ayllu. Whilst in Bastien’s day there were 200 families
living in Kaata, today my research assistant and I estimated there were 100, not all of
whom were resident all year round. My young migrant friends were concerned that in
another generation’s time there would be no one in the village at all, and some were
keen to teach their children traditional arts like playing the long tarka flute, or
carrying the woven scarlet bags emblematic of Callawaya healers, in which the
itinerant healers once kept their medicinal herbs as they walked from village to
village.
7
Key to the changes taking place in the community since Bastien’s time, to the
minds of its inhabitants, are clothes. Young people wear different clothes now;
shinier, newer and more self-conscious than the torn and well-used items that their
fathers use for everyday work in the fields, the woven ponchos men wear for special
occasions, or the woven skirts, blouses and headbands that many women wear every
day. International fashions are in evidence; I noted in 2011 the very latest trends in
the winkle pickers and drainpipe jeans on a young man who had spent two months
down a one-man mine shaft teasing out fragments of gold, and was taking them for
sale in La Paz.
Clothes express a complex of changes for the villagers, and are key to
matters most in a social interaction in this constantly racially aware climate is who is
‘more Indian’, and who is ‘more white’ (de la Cadena 2000). Whilst there are many
grades of identity between the two extremes, such as mestizo (mixed), or chola
(citified Indian), Indian and white are essentially two hierarchically skewed poles that
frame self-identity and interaction. Clothes are crucial in signalling these identities:
Weismantel (2001) and Seligman (1989, 1993) explore the importance of the clothes
in constituting the chola, Weismantel’s informants widely agreeing the wide pollera
skirt to be the fundamental marker of chola identity. Chola women are independent
actors who mediate the space between the city and countryside. Girls in Kaata now
wear polleras, which connotes a change in character: they go to cities and coca fields
8
As young people shift their clothes, Kaatans are moving away from an Andean
They are becoming to their own minds, more like the q’ara (whites) or misti (mixed).
Artefacts are perceived to be complexes here of the relationships that compose them;
inherent in the clothes young people wore were the circuits of desire that attracted
them to the cities and coca fields, where they work for cash. These circuits replace
In Bastien’s time, I was told, the community was held together through ayni:
villagers would exchange days of their labour, allowing households to mobilise large
work parties. Ayni is a form of reciprocity, expressing the return of like for like,
governing work relations between humans of equal status. For Gose (1994) this
Ayni is being replaced in Kaata with wage labour between villagers employing each
other on a daily rate, referred to as mink’a. Gose (ibid.) specifies that mink’a
characterising runa. Whilst before when they were doing ayni, people would turn up
early and work hard for one another, I was told, now that they were being paid they
This decline in the ability and motivation to work hard is another changing
feature of Kaata: villagers widely perceive the ‘people of before’, including certain
elders still alive, as more hardy that themselves. Hard work is crucial to Andean self-
identity (Lazar 2007), thus this is a fundamental shift of character, indeed of ethnic
replacement of egalitarian ayni with stratified mink’a maps a similar shift of ethnic
9
character towards a more misti way of interrelating, with repercussions for
humans and to the cosmoscape of the village. Mannheim indicates that ayni is part of
a complex of reciprocities composing runa life and identity, also involving mañay
prestations to powerful non-human telluric spirits, often with the request for a return
constituting Andean runa cosmos and is as such a ‘total social phenomenon’ (Mauss,
in contrast to whites (q’ara) according to their immersion in and respect for these
reciprocal relations:
The defining characteristic which sets off human beings, runa, from q’ara
reciprocal energetic exchanges. As we encounter with the sale of the mummies or the
decline of ayni, the egalitarian exchange relations binding humans to other humans,
as well as the respectful terms of mañay to deities, are currently breaking down; the
10
according to their self-perceptions, to the mestizos or q’ara of towns and cities, for
whom self-enrichment at the expense of others, human and non-human, is the norm.
This shift in identity and attendant cosmology is evident across generations; elders
report that young people now think of them as “Indians, with empty pockets”. Indian
relationships with each other and with landscapes; many now are escaping these
relations and with them the idea of temperance in individual consumption, and
which constitute being or compose its ontological warp and weft is well established
which non-humans are reduced to mere resources for human exploitation and
enrichment, as they are in what Scott (2016) terms the ‘realist rational’ world of
western modernity. As runa are adopting q’ara modes of exchange, work and dress,
so these practices become conceivable. Worlding practices collide, slide across and
landscape or ‘cosmoscape’.
11
community were shifting away from subsistence agriculture to consumption and cash
economies, industrially produced foods, like white rice, sweets and noodles, were
landscape, and contribute to ‘climate change’. Discarded waste wrappers make the
mountain weaker, as human bodies consuming the foods they contained were
community members asserted that white rice had no nutritional value, unless it were
grown and threshed by hand by Kaatans who had moved to the lowlands. It is the
hard work and ayni or exchange relationships in a thing that comprise its value, and
an attempt to ‘take too much’, forcing the villagers’ exchange relationships with the
mountain and soils in ways that have repercussions for their fertility, weakening them
just as human bodies were weakened by the consumption of the food produced.
However, whilst all spoke against them, I saw people spraying crops with pesticide
the increased stoniness and infertility of the soil- it was claimed that “only obliging it
now can we produce”. ‘Obliging’ the earth, humans push their part of the relational
bargain with a worn-out and somewhat reluctant partner. Human ‘ambition’ was
12
identified as a key cause of this over-exploitation. A modernising agricultural trend is
considered fertiliser, exhausted batteries were ploughed into the fields, before
workshops on climate change were carried out in Kaata by Idelfonso, a leader from a
and employed by the Ministry of the Environment. For Idelfonso, source of local
interpretation of the terms climate change and contamination, these issues are linked
to capitalism and extractive industries, while the traditional lifestyles of the mountain
“don’t contaminate at all”; “we respect the earth”, he claims, in a tone of perfect
humility and reason. Learning they were ‘contaminating’ the land, the concerned
explained that they are largely used by young people to power their radios; a blow to
reciprocal relations, as they replace the ritual music once played to draw the elements
and land into relations of exchange. Elders often expressed their concern that young
people declined these days to partake in ceremonies thanking the earth and elements,
and making offerings for their renewed fertility; their music and actions were seen as
within this ambivalent cosmoscape: the modern and relational analyses of batteries’
impact on the fertility of the land come to similar conclusions about them as
3
Consejo Nacional de Ayllus and Marqas de Collasuyo – National Council of
Ayllus and Marqas of Collasuyo.
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contaminants. The modern discourse of contamination is used to strengthen relational
Despite the lack of young people to play music, the ‘earth practices’ of the
agricultural cycle, in which humans feed the mountain and other non-humans mañay
offerings to ensure their continued fertility, are still carried out in Kaata by a number
of participants much reduced since Bastien’s day, a matter frequently commented on.
As detailed above, I learned in 2011 that the elaborate ceremonies to stop an excess
of rain could no longer take place due to the sale of the mummies that were central to
them. A widespread Andean myth recounts that such mummies are chullpas of
another damper and darker age of the world predating this Christian era, who ‘dried
up’ into their current form when Jesus Christ/ the sun rose for the first time and shone
(Abercrombie 1994; Gose 2008, 2016). Two layers of meaning in this cosmoscape
here collide: the mummies were still powerful, and some of the villagers would have
used them in ceremonies, yet at the same time, the increasing importance of money
meant that even they could be sold. Excessively heavy rain, arriving late and
suddenly at the start of the growing season and inundating the seedlings, has indeed
chullpa mummies and the villagers are now unable carry out ceremonies to stop it. In
this way the sale of the mummies is coherent within a relational perspective with
excessive rainfall. Modern changes, as anthropologists long ago learnt of culture, are
not one way; their repercussions in the landscape can reinforce animist
ontological convictions.
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ethnographically familiar in the Andes through the relational interweaving of colonial
and Andean thought. It is exemplified by Turino’s (1993) account of the dance of the
When asking who the dancers are, Turino is told that they are the achachilas,
powerful mountain spirits, and also ridiculous Spanish conquistadores. He takes these
two apparently conflicting explanations to a senior man, who tells him the dancers
are both- every dance must have two meanings! This enduring reality of colonial and
Andean worlds coming into conversation with and contradicting one another are a
relationships between runa and q’ara. Whilst conflictive, the identities are not closed.
controversy revolving around a mine, opened by Victor. Through selling alpaca wool
his mother had amassed enough capital to hire a retro-excavadora, a JCB, in order
for her son to mine a site on Kaata’s slopes well-known for its mineral deposits. It
was hoped he would find gold; though he found none, the earth he extracted was rich
the mine, as evinced by the array of consumer goods, such as a large flat screen
television, that began to appear in their house on the steep slopes of the city of La
Paz.
Gold mining has a long history in the Andes; nuggets of gold are frequently
asserted to grow ‘like potatoes’ in the mountain, and can be taken out if exchange
relationships with it are nurtured and maintained (Absi, 2015[2005]; Nash, 1979). As
de la Cadena (2010) indicates, relations with mountains can be maintained with shaft
15
mining, yet in the case of a large-scale open cast mine which would effectively
decapitate a mountain, her informants were deeply concerned about the mountain’s
capacity for retaliation. These days however, when community members claim to ‘no
longer say’ that the mountain is a body, Victor’s mine was permitted, provided that
he feed some of the wealth into the community, conspicuously through buying all the
alcohol consumed at fiestas. The couple and their children would return to the village
frequently to host these fiestas. Victor also undertook to ‘improve’ the main square,
now devoid of its subterranean mummies, with a raised central seating area like the
Driving to Charazani to restock the thirsty village, Victor drove off the narrow
road, plummeting into the side of the mountain. The impact killed outright the five
young men from Kaata travelling with him. Road accidents are very common in
Kaata, as in much of Bolivia, the narrow one-track roads and steep sides of the
barriers. Many community members had lost relatives to accidents, and suffered
injuries themselves. A few shots of neat alcohol, one poured for the mountain and
others imbibed by the driver and lead passengers, were considered a vital safety
routine for a journey: it is this communication with mountain spirits engaging their
blessing that ensures road safety. Certain sites were particularly dangerous, places of
ill-feeling where the mountain was likely to push you off the road; the mountain is
16
The time for collectively coming to terms with the deaths of the young men
was All Souls or the ‘Day of the Dead’ (Dia de los Muertos) at the start of
November, when the first rains and clouds arrive. In the cemetery five tables or
mesas had been erected, screened with sugar cane, and covered with foodstuffs for
the spirits of the dead to consume. Sitting among them, a group of men told me; “this
is not our culture; that Victor, he’s an addict”. “Our culture” was invoked here as a
redistributive mechanism that would not allow such selfish amassing of resources
learned, was one who took too much from the social whole for themselves, focusing
on their own individual consumption. The mountain, hungry as ever (Gose 1994),
had defied the ‘de-animising’ (Latour 2018) modern or q’ara perspective, and come
out of its slumber as a ‘natural resource’ to exact its revenge on the man who dared to
think it less than a deity, seizing the counterpart to the bargain in which Victor had
with his mine engaged. The more taken, the more was required in return.
climate for Victor to open the mine, and to extract the flesh of the mountain for sale,
much like the chullpas were sold to the ‘archaeologists’ according to modern
capitalist precepts, the understanding also surfaced, in the cosmic chaos engendered
by the accident, that this would entail a counter-reaction from the mountain,
17
Pavel (1981) proposes in a European context that ‘sacred’ and ‘profane’
landscapes co-exist and come into contact at sacred sites like churches or persons like
the ‘son of God’, composing landscapes of layered ontologies. In incidents like those
above we see contrasting ontological currents in Kaata come into contact. How might
we conceptualise how ontological currents merge and contest one another in this
there are many stories of the interiors of mountains harbouring other worlds, which
might emerge, for example, through waterways (Gose 1994, Harris 2000). I will
explore here the potential for disruption by hidden underworlds; the below is not
(Scott 2016) new world is simultaneously treated with suspicion, the concern that one
is ‘taking too much’, and fear of reprisal. Scott (2016) hypothesises that one
ontological order seen from the perspective of another will always provoke wonder;
and it is thus that the capitalistic conviction that the landscape can be exploited for its
wealth without check is treated by young men like Victor in Kaata. Victor described
the ‘empty’ jungle lowlands, where he had shares in a second mine, with eyes shining
at the exciting riches that it promised, and likewise told me a waterfall across the
valley might rain down treasures upon one. His more sober brother-in-law however
cautioned that there were dangerous spirits there. The wondrous world of individual
relational landscape, which arises to take reprisal time and time again through the
18
Given the risky changes that are occurring in the community, reprisals seem
inevitable. Villagers say that when the snows of the last steadily diminishing glaciers
disappear from the apu or chief mountain lord of the region, Akhamani, visible
across the valley from the village, it will explode into a volcano and subsume
the term ‘climate change’. The eventual cataclysm of volcanic eruption is calmly
assumed to entail the deaths of everyone, though some may survive in caves. This
cataclysm is not restricted to Kaata: rather mountains will erupt, amidst other natural
disasters, first in more ‘developed’ places - indeed a young man told me that the
contemporary Japanese tsunami and Chilean earthquakes were evidence this was
already underway. Sometime soon Illimani, the iconic mountain overlooking the
capital La Paz, would also explode into streams of lava, and then Akhamani itself.
The villagers thus acknowledge that the process of riling the landscape to the point of
extreme reaction is one considerably further along in other places, yet visible in their
own lives and practices. Ontological currents in the Andean cosmoscape thus it
seems subsume and emerge from one another in a fluid metamorphosis, which we
can contrast to the seemingly static, reminiscently stratigraphic layers which for
and upheaval when the world is ‘turned on its head’ as it is described in historical
and highly dangerous fluidity between the land and body during which humans
emerge from the natural world and can also return to it”. Subsumed by lava, the
19
villagers are taken into the mountain body: Kaatans are literally returned to the land
between humans and the mountain, fitting with the historical notion of an
The term pachakuti, Bouysse-Cassagne and Harris (1987) note, was seldom
that the Christian ‘Judgement’ however described a ‘turning over of the world’, a
cosmic revolution where the manqa pacha of repressed Andean earth spirits would
resurge to replace kay pacha, ‘this world’. Judgement introduced a moral sense that
the concept had not carried before, yet this Judgement was not considered final
(Bouysse-Cassagne and Harris 1987). It seems the concept and spatiality of pachakuti
remains in contemporary Kaata in the volcanic eruption of mountains, and that this
world, a cosmos. Allen (2016) argues that ‘cosmos’ is “a partially accurate translation
which nevertheless captures neither the fluidity of scale nor the presence of human
and non-human consciousness inherent in the concept”; pacha is she emphasises also
‘turning over’, and according to Mannheim, implies a cyclical return, as well as the
evidential model or world” (1986:269). Through the changes occurring in Kaata, the
The shift of structural equilibrium between runa and misti or q’ara engenders cosmic
20
through the controversial sale of mummies, the exploitation of the mountain through
During the colonial period communities continued to hope for the return of the
Inca and overthrow of the colonial order in a pachakuti that would reverse the
Campbell 1987), surfacing with the rebellions of Tupac Katari, on the Aymara
altiplano, and Tupac Amaru II in Cusco in the 1780s. Despite the royalist victories
over these rebellions in the short term, Gose (2016) describes a widespread pachakuti
ancestors. During this period the kurakas came under increasing attack from the state
and from below, having become increasingly alienated from their communities and
kin (Gose 2008, 2016). Communities instead came to centre political power and
that, according to the Andean epochal formula of pachakuti, ‘returned to the earth’
within which it may be subordinate but is still ongoing and capable of returning to
important mountains were thenceforth called ‘apu’ or lord. Mountains thus came to
represent an indigenous sovereignty that whilst within the earth might rise again-
perhaps in the outpourings of lava that will subsume the increasingly q’ara world of
the village which abuses and overstrains its relationships with them.
21
Gose argues that this pachakuti ended colonial indirect rule; communities that
democracies” (2016:28), and many remain so today, like Kaata, resolving differences
but unlike them one that remained deeply grounded in subaltern Andean interests in
agrarian fertility and the circulation of life” (Gose 2016:21). This ‘returning to earth’
of Indian power was “a strategic retreat” from the state, taking the form of a
pachakuti “in which a previously dominant order was driven underground where it
This pachakuti is thus embodied in the chullpa mummies. While chullpas were
driven underground, and became associated with hidden springs and the interiors of
the advantages of being associated with the contemporary political order and
Christian faith. Their height was associated with Christian heaven, the alax pacha or
upper world of the gods and saints, and the sun that punished the chullpas. Indeed as
Gose (2008; 2016) indicates, mountain lords are often depicted as white, owing to
explains, “the great genius of Andean politics has been to carry forward these
traditional ancestral expectations into the present, to fuse them with actually existing
state power and not allow them to be marginalised or driven underground” (2016:29).
least since colonial times; they are according to Gose a composite of the Christian
schema of heaven with colonial state power and existing earth practices for the
22
fertility and regeneration of the land. They are a mode of engaging with the state as
timeless separation of modern and other which have dogged the ontological debate.
In the cosmology of these ‘earth lords’, subject to and inseparable from contemporary
political and social changes, we see how ontological currents combine to make
cosmoscapes that shift over time, and as Cepek indicates, shift circumstantially in
communication with the wider cosmoscapes within which they are inscribed (Cepek
2016). And it seems they shift more in certain significant moments, which the
relations, we can consider how Kaata is interconnected with the contemporary state
elected in 2005, embraces pachakuti and ‘earth beings’, yet understands these in
movement, the Conamaq, and elected representatives from the region regularly travel
into state decision making mechanisms which have flourished under the indigenous
23
The call for a pachakuti was espoused in recent decades by the city-based
Katarista movement - the notable Aymara leader, Felipe Quispe, widely known as
“El Mallku”, called his political party the Indigenous Pachakuti Movement
Aymara migrants under in the 1960s and 70s as a way of reclaiming ethnic identity,
expressing not only class but also ethnic oppression. The city-based Katarista
pachakuti took the form of a demand for a return to past times, with increasingly
the pachakuti embraced by the social movements at this crucial time “refer[s] to a
mythic time of redemption when the principles that govern today only social
of liberal domination and exploitation suffered by all, will once again reign on a
emergence from inside to outside, and turning around: “What was inside, in the
communities, such as their most intimate logic - and of course below – [would now
be] placed where it is visible, valid, legitimate, outside, and ‘on top’” (2014:51). This
communities like Kaata, with its monthly community meetings attended by all, and in
its leaders elected to hold authority positions lasting only a year. These have persisted
in many ayllus and among city dwellers (Lazar 2007, Tassi 2012), and the social
movements hoped they would become widespread and overtake the ‘colonial’ and
corrupt state. Gutierrez explains that these hopes of pachakuti also refer to the wider
logics of sharing and reciprocal aid present in ayni- exactly the characteristics that,
24
instead of emerging on to the national level from the community in the contemporary
expression of a sense that it is “time for the poor to receive their fair share… passing
the benefits of national patrimony to the poor who were traditionally barred from
those benefits. They are not as concerned about environmental damage to rural lands
as they are about overcoming poverty” (Postero 2017:111). This allows the state to
expand its extractivist base, removing vast quantities of ‘natural resources’ from the
earth, whilst still espousing the indigenist rhetoric of pachakuti. The reversal entailed
by the pachakuti to which President Morales, who claims to be the country’s first
indigenous president, makes frequent reference is that those at the bottom of society
are able to rise, taking on the benefits formerly restricted to those at the ‘top’. This is
has become an anthropocentric, and even ethnic pachakuti. It limits its focus to the
groups of humans changing places within society, and neglects the earth beings,
whereas the villagers of Kaata, even as they modernise and westernise their livings to
For the people of Kaata and the other villages of the mountain, promises of the
pachakuti which the government holds out are taken with a realistic pinch of salt; my
informants consider that Morales, who rose to prominence as a syndicalist leader for
coca growers4, favours this sector, for the price of coca and cost of living soars whilst
that which can be raised for their crops barely makes the journey to market
worthwhile. For them this economic reality tempts young people into leaving the
ayllu to cultivate and process coca in the lowland valleys, resulting in widespread
migration and, they foresee, the eventual disappearance of the community and its
4
Coca is a raw ingredient of cocaine.
25
associated worlding practices (see Author forthcoming). For them, it ois fasir to say
that the state is describing in its depiction of the rise of indigenous peoples, the
‘wrong pachakuti’, or the reverse of that they are experiencing: runa lifestyles and
conflicts between the ‘indigenous government’ and social movements. The recent
Bolivian Law of Mother Earth is much lauded internationally for affording the Earth
juridical personhood5. When it was eventually passed after heavy revision from the
relevant ministries in 2012, there was outrage from the social movements who had
when the great agreement of the Pact of Unity in the Planning of the Law
5
See eg. https://nacla.org/blog/2012/11/16/earth-first-
bolivia%25E2%2580%2599s-mother-earth-law-meets-neo-extractivist-economy
26
exploitation of hydrocarbons, and the extension of the agricultural frontier
(author’s translation).6
The Conamaq sent a letter of support in which it confirmed its support for the
assembly delegates, holding amongst other concerns that the redrafted version of the
Law reduced the Mother Earth to a matter of ‘natural resources’, paying only lip
service to the original draft, and that it was predicated on the concept of ‘nature’ as
that which might be exploited to fulfil society’s needs. 7 The legislative version is
accused of side lining earth beings for natural resources and thus missing the entire
Kaata, one in which Kaatan delegates indeed play their part. The mallku nacional,
Atanacio, who succeeded Idelfonso as the regional Conamaq delegate, was frequently
in La Paz representing the community in forums shaped along the direct democratic
practice of the communities, like the Conamaq assembly or the Bolivian Platform on
NGOs participated in regular assemblies debating themes ranging from GMOs to the
Law of Mother Earth, all intrinsic to the local conception of ‘climate change’.
Atancio is from and continues to live in Kaata; like Idelfonso, he is runa and became
the national representative through his interest in politics and after having carried out
roles. In contemporary Bolivia such voices have some chance to make themselves
heard on the national level; however their rise is tempered by the selective inability to
understand what they are saying, as in the equivocal modifications to the Law of
6
Available at https://www.bolpress.com/?Cod=2012082404
7
available at https://www.bolpress.com/?Cod=2012082404
27
Mother Earth by the ministries, which challenges its real power to create change.
Idelfonso expressed his frustration with the skewed priorities of such modern
worlding practices: “they say the mother earth depends on us [to look after it], but it
come into conflict; it is necessary however that rather than reifying these tendencies
along ethnic lines we admit the heterogeneous realities they compose. The Conamaq
came into existence in the late 1990s with the support of British NGO Oxfam, as well
as Danish NGO IBIS, the Inter-American Foundation, and Plan International (Lucero
2006). Whilst composed of representatives like Atanacio or Idelfonso who are elected
networks (Keck and Sikkink 1998), as indeed has President Morales, who through
unity across the Andean region (Andolina 2001). Both ‘sides’ in this cosmoscape
Contrasting the visions of the state and social movements in composing the
Law of Mother Earth, we see that their espousals of ‘earth beings’ have very different
That is, the same term can have different meanings according to the world or
28
ontological understandings within which it comes nested, and when contrasting
practices meet there is significant space for telling misunderstandings. In one usage
here earth beings are employed instrumentally, as a complementary nod to the ‘other’
whilst espousing a modern extractivist politics, whilst for the indigenous social
movements, they are actors who can take retribution, challenging extractivism and
the modern convictions upon which it is founded. This second perspective emanates
from the vision espoused in Kaata, channelled with streams of other indigenous
actors into the social movements. In the discourse around the Law of Mother Earth
politics.
Conclusion
whites. However, this entails for many the intrinsically related transformation of an
entire animate landscape, which will subsume the humans who attempt to escape
and engulfing ethnic change. Indeed, we might say that it comprises the engulfing of
one world, a shiny capitalist surface, with another relational reality, which explodes
out of the midst or depths of it to cover its surface; sub-surface worlds can be
agentive actors in the landscape, and its strata may suddenly shift. Comprising these
a ‘cosmoscape’.
29
The community sits within the wider cosmoscape of the indigenous extractivist
state, where similar cosmological currents converse with and contest one another. It
difference between the legislative version of the Law of Mother Earth and their own.
The legislative version, they claim, embraces the idea of earth beings in a tokenistic
sense, not as actors who must be accommodated, or who are capable of rebalancing
their exchange relations with humans, coming to a central contrast in this cosmoscape
Castro 2004) understandings of Morales’ pachakuti, the historical concept, and that
of the contemporary social movements has the effect of excluding vital elements of
landscape, as, de la Cadena (2015) reminds us, have modern states through Andean
history. Morales and Kaata share a national history, which give the idea of pachakuti
its resonance, but they are coming at it from the only ‘partially connected’ worlds of
the modern state and indigenous community (Strathern 2004; de la Cadena 2015).
cannot distinguish between a tokenistic adoption of a discourse and one that follows
beings.
30
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