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Tokyo Food 101 Places To Eat A Restaurant Guide With 194 Schwab Axel Japan Travel Guide Series
Tokyo Food 101 Places To Eat A Restaurant Guide With 194 Schwab Axel Japan Travel Guide Series
of Japanese cuisine
and food culture
Table of Contents
Preface
Map of Tokyo
Description of the 12 Categories
Six ways to choose a Restaurant
My personal ranking
Find restaurant and café chains in district maps
Gourmet tours
The Author
Imprint
Preface
Since I published the German version of "Tokyo Maze" more than ten years ago, new editions have
always taken into account the wishes of my readers. An often expressed wish was to integrate more
references to restaurants and culinary highlights into the tours. That's why I started to include a
recommendation for one restaurant and one coffee shop in each of the walks. This gave rise to the
idea of writing another book that focused entirely on restaurants and cafés with more details and
photos.
Matching the 20 most popular tours from "Tokyo Maze" I tested five selected restaurants per tour.
During my last trip in December 2018 I checked all of them again and exchanged some of them for
even better options.
The 101 restaurants and cafés described in the text also include 18 chains with branches in several
parts of the city. Thus you will find more than 300 restaurants on the 20 maps. It would make little
sense to drive to a distant part of town just for a quick snack.
The level of restaurants ranges from inexpensive fast food chains to gourmet restaurants decorated
with Michelin stars. You can enjoy a wide range of different cuisines: Sushi, Teishoku, Kaiseki,
Noodles and Japanese pubs as well as Vegetarian, Vegan and International cuisine and of course
Meat in all its variations. To ensure that sweet treats are not neglected, there is always at least one
café or tea shop in every chapter. No matter in which of the 20 district maps your hotel is located,
within walking distance there are always 8-24 restaurants available. For each of the 101 restaurants
described there is a photo from the outside to help you find it together with a map and text
description. There are colour photos of all recommended dishes, so that you can get an idea of the
dishes and you can even order them by referring to the book if you need to.
The prices are correct as at the end of 2018 and are a guide only; they
include sales tax of 8%. Often the price is shown without sales tax on
menus, it is only added when paying. From October 2019 the sales tax will
increase to 10%.
The telephone number is also printed for each restaurant. If you enter the phone number into
Google Maps in Tokyo or Apple's Map app, you're sure to find the right address. By the way, this
also works with navigation systems for taxis and rental cars. Instead of the closing times, in most
cases I have indicated the time for the last possible order (Last Order).
I hope you enjoy your culinary journey through Tokyo. Also with this book I am looking forward
again to any kind of feedback and hints for updating and further improvement. Please send your
messages by e-mail to tokyo@axelschwab.com.
Tokyo has a railway network unique worldwide. The best railway line to explore the centre of Tokyo
is the Yamanote line. It takes about an hour to go around the entire loop, which covers 30 stations and
about 35km. The numbers on the map refer to chapter numbers in the book. The districts highlighted
in grey on the map are easiest to reach on the Yamanote line. The other parts of the city with a white
background are easily accessible via the underground network. Google Maps can find you the best
connections between your hotel and restaurants to visit while in Japan.
Description of the 12 categories
Sushi
These restaurants exclusively serve raw fish in the well-known forms such as sashimi, nigiri, chirashi or maki, just to name the
most important. There are small shops with only a few seats and of course bigger restaurants and Kaiten sushi, where you take the
sushi plates off the conveyor belt yourself. In most cases you can sit at the counter and watch the sushi masters preparing the food.
1, 19, 53, 60, 66, 83, 86, 88, 92, 94
Teishoku
Teishoku is a set menu of traditional Japanese food, which mostly consists of a piece of fried or grilled fish or meat, and small side
dishes as well as rice and miso soup. Restaurants which offer no fish, but only meat dishes, I have assigned to the category
"Meat", although some, strictly speaking, would also belong to the Teishoku category.
27, 29, 32, 41, 46, 51, 81, 82, 87, 89
Kaiseki
The term stands for a light multi-course Japanese menu, often based on seasonal produce and exquisitely prepared and presented.
Under this term are very high-quality, traditional Japanese restaurants, which have predominantly Kaiseki menus.
11, 13, 33, 62, 91
Gourmet
Top restaurants, some of which have been decorated with Michelin stars, are in this category. Tokyo offers not only Japanese, but
also, for example, Chinese, French and Italian cuisine at the highest level.
12, 21, 59, 71, 96
Noodles
Very popular are the different types of noodles Ramen, Udon (wheat noodles) and Soba (buckwheat noodles). In winter it is
usually served in a warm soup, in summer the noodles are often dipped cold into a sauce and then eaten. There are both thin and
thick noodles and a wide variety of different sauces and soups such as miso, shoyu (soy sauce) and shio (salt).
3, 8, 14, 34, 36, 43, 48, 58, 69, 77
Izakaya
These can by no means be equated with a pub, because food is just as much a focus as the enjoyment of alcoholic beverages. In a
real Izakaya you order as a group from the wide selection of sharing plates, and then take what you want to eat from the middle of
the table. I have also taken the liberty of classifying here restaurants that are only open in the evening or that are well suited for
going out in the evening.
2, 7, 20, 37, 57, 67, 72–74, 84, 98
Organic
Under this term I bring together all the restaurants that attach particular importance to the origin of their products. Very often these
are vegetables that are purchased directly from organic farmers. Vegetarians and vegans will surely find what they are looking
for in these restaurants. However, there are very few purely vegan or vegetarian restaurants in Tokyo, so there are also often dishes
with fish or chicken. If you have a strict vegan or vegetarian diet, you should therefore explicitly indicate this when ordering.
16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 31, 38, 49, 52, 61
Meat
For all lovers of meat (Niku) there are restaurants in this category, which specialize in beef or pork dishes with different methods
of preparation. The best known of these are grilled beef, yakiniku, and breaded, fried pork cutlet, tonkatsu.
6, 18, 35, 42, 63, 68, 70, 76
Fast and Good
This group includes all the restaurant chains that you mainly visit in order to quickly get a full stomach for a small amount of
money. Whether beef on rice, noodle, tempura, curry dishes or hamburgers, there is something for everyone here.
4, 9, 26, 47, 78, 79, 93
Cafes
If you feel like a good cup of coffee, there are numerous alternatives to the Tokyo branches of well-known American chains.
Instead of an overpriced breakfast buffet in the hotel, some of the cafés listed here are a good place to enjoy buttered toast or a
cinnamon bun with a cup of coffee.
5, 10, 15, 30, 45, 55, 85, 90, 95, 97, 101
Sweets
More than coffee, the focus here is on fruit cups and ice cream. I'll also take you to shops selling legendary, traditional Japanese
desserts.
28, 39, 44, 50, 56, 65, 75, 99, 100
Tea
At the centre of these shops is tea, which can be enjoyed in all its variety. Whether as part of a small ceremony or simply as a tea
tasting or together with sweets, Japanese tea is always a great experience.
25, 40, 54, 64, 80
Six ways to choose a restaurant
Around railway stations
If you're looking for a restaurant close to a certain station, then simply follow the 20 main chapters, as each chapter focuses on the
restaurants within walking distance of the station the chapter is named by. Chain branches are additionally shown on the maps as
white numbers in black circles.
By category
All restaurants are assigned to one of the 12 categories described above and listed there with their number at the end.
47. Marugame Seimen: Quick stop udon chain (Fast and Good)
This chain is known for its tasty udon noodles, which cost between ¥290
and ¥510 per serving. The selection of the different varieties is facilitated
by an English menu.
Tip: Torotama Udon with yam root and onsen egg. You add shallots and
fried breadcrumbs according to your taste. It is recommended to get some
fried vegetables, like pumpkin or sweet potatoes, at the counter for ¥100
each as an additional topping or side dish.
Toshima-ku, 2-26-10 Minami-Ikebukuro
Open daily 11am-10.30pm
www.toridoll.com/shop/marugame
Phone: 03-5391-7422
48. Tokyo Underground Ramen Ganja: Rich ramen and broth (Noodles)
In the underground passage of the Tobu Hope Center you can buy
Tsukumen Ramen, where you dip the firm, homemade, thick noodles into a
rich, creamy, fish-based broth. The soup is drunk at the end after the staff
has added hot water. First buy a ticket at the Japanese labelled vending
machine, the button for Tsukumen ramen is at the top left.
Tip:Press the 2nd button from the top left (¥830). If you want an even
stronger broth with more meat and an egg, press the button at the top left
(¥1030). When you hand in your ticket you will be asked if you want more
(M - 300 g) or less (S - 200 g) noodles, the price is the same.
Toshima-ku, 1-1-30 Nishi-Ikebukuro
Open daily 10am-9.30pm
www.ganja.co.jp
Phone: 03-5950-7880
56. Takano Fruit Parlor: The best fruit cup in Tokyo (Sweets)
From Shinjuku station, you can get directly to the Takano building
underground via the A7 exit. Above ground, you will find the entrance on
the right side of the building. In the basement (B1F in Japan) you can
admire the fruit, some cost more than ¥10,000. On the 5th floor you can
enjoy the fruit cups of this renowned and old tea parlor. No English menu,
therefore use the photos for orientation. Long waiting times on weekends.
Tip: The legendary Muskmelon Parfait for ¥2160, with many pieces of the
sugar sweet and tasty honeydew melon.
Shinjuku-ku, 3-26-11 Shinjuku
Open daily 11am-8.30pm
takano.jp
Phone: 03-5368-5147
71. L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele Ebisu: The best Pizza Margherita (Gourmet)
Perhaps the best Neapolitan recipe pizza in Tokyo, because the pizza chef
learned his mastery at the famous headquarters in Naples. As puristic as the
original, there are therefore only two pizzas on the menu: Margherita and
Marinara.
Tip: For one person I recommend the Margherita Normale (¥1674), two
people share the Margherita Doppia (¥2160) with more Mozzarella.
Shibuya-ku, 4-4-7 Ebisu
Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-11pm
www.damichele.jp
Phone: 03-5447-3800
93. Nakau: Teishoku chain with a large selection (Fast and Good)
The Teishoku restaurants of this chain are mostly located in some remote
side streets, but they are convenient because you can eat around the clock
quite cheaply. First you choose your meal at the bilingual, modern vending
machines and then give the purchased ticket to the staff. You can choose
from a large selection of fish dishes, udon, soba, gyudon, pork cutlet and
curry dishes.
The Deep Fried Breaded Pork Cutlet with Scrambled Eggs for only
Tip:
¥730 fills your stomach and tastes good.
Chuo-ku, 2-14-1 Tsukiji
Open 24 hours a day
www.nakau.co.jp
Directly at the corner to the Shitamachi Museum Annex is the café in an old
wooden house, which has been in operation since 1938. If all seats on the
ground floor are occupied, you can sit in an even nicer location on the upper
floor, which is Tatami only, so no shoes please. From 8am to 11am you can
enjoy breakfast for just ¥800 (toast or a sandwich with coffee or tea). In
summer there is Japanese shaved ice Kakigori with Matcha and sweet
beans. My favourite however is their Anmitsu, which is vanilla ice cream
with red bean paste, fruits and jelly cubes for ¥700. It comes together with a
cup of green tea and syrup sauce, which you pour over this fine Japanese
dessert. And there is another favourite for all lovers of cake: Green-tea
Gateau Chocolat best accompanied by a Café Latte, each will add ¥500 to
your bill.
Taitō-ku, 6-1-29 Yanaka
Open daily 8am-6pm, Fri-Sat 8am-9pm
www.kayaba-coffee.com
Phone: 03-3823-3545
My personal ranking
Sushi
1. No. 88 ¥¥¥
2. No. 53 ¥¥¥
3. No. 86 ¥¥¥
4. No. 19 ¥¥
5. No. 83 ¥¥
6. No. 92 ¥¥¥
7. No. 66 ¥¥
8. No. 01 ¥¥
9. No. 94 ¥
10. No. 60 ¥¥
Teishoku
1. No. 81 ¥¥
2. No. 89 ¥¥¥
3. No. 87 ¥¥
4. No. 46 ¥
5. No. 41 ¥¥
6. No. 32 ¥¥
7. No. 27 ¥
8. No. 82 ¥¥
9. No. 51 ¥¥
10. No. 29 ¥¥
Kaiseki
1. No. 91 ¥¥¥
2. No. 11 ¥¥¥
3. No. 62 ¥¥¥
4. No. 33 ¥¥¥
5. No. 13 ¥¥¥
Gourmet
1. No. 96 ¥¥¥
2. No. 59 ¥¥¥
3. No. 12 ¥¥¥
4. No. 21 ¥¥¥
5. No. 71 ¥¥
Noodles
1. No. 36 ¥¥
2. No. 08 ¥
3. No. 14 ¥
4. No. 48 ¥
5. No. 69 ¥
6. No. 34 ¥
7. No. 77 ¥¥
8. No. 58 ¥¥
9. No. 03 ¥
10. No. 43 ¥¥
Izakaya
1. No. 37 ¥¥
2. No. 72 ¥¥
3. No. 84 ¥¥
4. No. 57 ¥¥¥
5. No. 02 ¥¥¥
6. No. 07 ¥¥
7. No. 20 ¥¥
8. No. 89 ¥¥¥
9. No. 67 ¥¥¥
10. No. 73 ¥¥
11. No. 98 ¥¥
12. No. 74 ¥¥
Organic
1. No. 61 ¥¥
2. No. 16 ¥¥
3. No. 17 ¥¥
4. No. 23 ¥¥
5. No. 31 ¥¥
6. No. 22 ¥¥
7. No. 24 ¥
8. No. 52 ¥¥
9. No. 49 ¥¥
10. No. 38 ¥¥
Meat - Beef
1. No. 06 ¥¥¥
2. No. 18 ¥¥¥
3. No. 68 ¥¥¥
4. No. 42 ¥¥
5. No. 35 ¥¥
Meat - Pork
1. No. 63 ¥¥¥
2. No. 76 ¥¥
3. No. 70 ¥¥
Snacks
1. No. 04 ¥
2. No. 78 ¥
3. No. 93 ¥
4. No. 26 ¥
5. No. 47 ¥
6. No. 09 ¥
7. No. 79 ¥
Breakfasts
1. No. 10 ¥
2. No. 30 ¥
3. No. 45 ¥
4. No. 05 ¥
Sweets
1. No. 56 ¥¥
2. No. 100 ¥¥
3. No. 75 ¥
4. No. 99 ¥¥
5. No. 64 ¥¥
6. No. 50 ¥
7. No. 44 ¥
8. No. 65 ¥
9. No. 39 ¥
10. No. 28 ¥¥
Cafes
1. No. 90 ¥¥
2. No. 55 ¥¥
3. No. 85 ¥¥
4. No. 95 ¥¥
5. No. 15 ¥¥
6. No. 97 ¥¥
7. No. 45 ¥
8. No. 30 ¥
9. No. 10 ¥
10. No. 05 ¥
Tea
1. No. 64 ¥¥
2. No. 25 ¥¥
3. No. 80 ¥¥
4. No. 54 ¥¥¥
5. No. 40 ¥¥
Find restaurant and café chains in district maps
No. 01: Tsukiji Tamasushi
More in the chapters:
4, 10, 17 and 19
Eco-trip
Mon: Lunch No. 38 / Evening No. 49
Tue: Lunch No. 52 / Evening No. 24
Wed: Lunch No. 22 / Evening No. 23
Thu: Lunch No. 16 / Evening No. 17
Fri: Lunch No. 61 / Evening No. 31
Low budget week
Mon: Lunch No. 09 / Evening No. 46
Tue: Lunch No. 94 / Evening No. 79
Wed: Lunch No. 47 / Evening No. 26
Thu: Lunch No. 93 / Evening No. 78
Fri: Lunch No. 04 / Evening No. 14
Traditional Japan
Mon: Lunch No. 13 / Evening No. 89 ¥¥¥¥
Tue: Lunch No. 31 / Evening No. 33
Wed: Lunch No. 11 ¥¥¥¥ / Evening No. 77
Thu: Lunch No. 81 / Evening No. 76
Fri: Lunch No. 91 / Evening No. 37 ¥¥¥¥
Meat lovers
Mon: Lunch No. 04 / Evening No. 27
Tue: Lunch No. 35 / Evening No. 70
Wed: Lunch No. 42 / Evening No. 76
Thu: Lunch No. 06 / Evening No. 68 ¥¥¥¥
Fri: Lunch No. 63 / Evening No. 18 ¥¥¥¥
Noodle mania
Mon: Lunch No. 43 / Evening No. 69
Tue: Lunch No. 58 / Evening No. 14
Wed: Lunch No. 48 / Evening No. 03
Thu: Lunch No. 77 / Evening No. 34
Fri: Lunch No. 08 / Evening No. 36 ¥¥¥¥
Pub evenings
Mon: Evening No. 73 or No. 74
Tue: Evening No. 98 or No. 67 ¥¥¥
Wed: Evening No. 07 or No. 57 ¥¥¥¥
Thu: Evening No. 84 or No. 02 ¥¥¥¥
Fri: Evening No. 72 or No. 37
The tours are designed so that the weekdays fit well with the opening hours
of the sights in the same district maps in my book "Tokyo Maze"
(chapters 1-16, 20, 25, 28 and 30). The quality and prices of the
restaurants rise towards the end, so that usually the meal on Friday evening
is the absolute highlight of each tour. If you want to shorten a tour or if you
have a limited budget, you should take this into account when modifying a
tour. Of course you can also do the tours on weekends, but please check the
opening hours of each restaurant before you start.
The Author
Axel Schwab is regarded by many as something of an expert on Japanese
cuisine and culture. He lived for over five years in Tokyo, channelling his
experiences into writing his guide “Tokyo Maze” – a favourite with many
visitors to the city. The 8th edition of the German version and 2nd edition of
the English version appeared in 2019. The walking guide has since been
supplemented by other books: “30 Arts of Edo-Tokyo”, “Japan in 60 easy
steps” and the restaurant guide “Tokyo Food – 101 Places to Eat”. When
back in Germany, he is always on the lookout for good, authentic Japanese
food and Japan-related specialist shops. It’s no surprise to learn, therefore,
that he has also written the travel and restaurant guides “Japan in Berlin”,
“Japan in Hamburg”, “Japan in Düsseldorf” and “Japan in München”. In his
“Sushi Guide” he shares his profound knowledge of the ins and outs of
sushi and endeavours to make nigiri sushi just as popular as the sushi rolls
which are already firm favourites in his home country. Alongside the books,
the author provides his readers with up-to-date information in his blogs
www.japanin.berlin and www.japan-in-muenchen.de. He also visits Japan for several
weeks every year to ensure new editions of his travel guides are up to date
and to re-calibrate his taste buds as a restaurant tester!
Imprint
© 2015-2019 Axel Schwab, Munich
All rights reserved.
Independently published
Contact: tokyo@axelschwab.com