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For all lovers

of Japanese cuisine
and food culture
Table of Contents
Preface
Map of Tokyo
Description of the 12 Categories
Six ways to choose a Restaurant

1. Shinagawa: High-Rise Buildings and a View of the Bay


2. Hamamatsucho: The Business District Gateway
3. Shimbashi: An Office-Workers’ Paradise at Night
4. Yurakucho: Dine Alongside High-End Fashion or Under the Tracks
5. Tokyo: Vegan and Vegetarian discoveries in an Iconic Location
6. Akihabara: Anime, manga and maids - pop culture in the Electric Town
7. Ueno: A Walk in the Park and Traditional Buildings
8. Nezu: Traditional Dishes in the Temple city of Yanaka
9. Oshiage: Towering dishes at the Tokyo Skytree
10. Ikebukuro: Lots of shops and ice-cream heaven
11. Omotesando: A Designer Life - Organic Food, Pop Art and Cool Coffee
12. Shinjuku: Culinary highlights of the shopping and entertainment district
13. Harajuku: Dining with Style in the fashion district
14. Shibuya: Over the scramble crossing - find food and fashion
15. Ebisu: Not Just Beer and Crafts
16. Meguro: Food Classics in the Home of Archery
17. Asakusa: Traditional food in old Tokyo
18. Roppongi: Day and night – exclusive luxury and hedonistic fun
19. Tsukiji: Not only Fish at the Fish market
20. Mitsukoshimae: Classical Cuisine combined with modern elegance
21. Last but certainly not least: No. 101

My personal ranking
Find restaurant and café chains in district maps
Gourmet tours
The Author
Imprint
Preface
Since I published the German version of "Tokyo Maze" more than ten years ago, new editions have
always taken into account the wishes of my readers. An often expressed wish was to integrate more
references to restaurants and culinary highlights into the tours. That's why I started to include a
recommendation for one restaurant and one coffee shop in each of the walks. This gave rise to the
idea of writing another book that focused entirely on restaurants and cafés with more details and
photos.
Matching the 20 most popular tours from "Tokyo Maze" I tested five selected restaurants per tour.
During my last trip in December 2018 I checked all of them again and exchanged some of them for
even better options.
The 101 restaurants and cafés described in the text also include 18 chains with branches in several
parts of the city. Thus you will find more than 300 restaurants on the 20 maps. It would make little
sense to drive to a distant part of town just for a quick snack.
The level of restaurants ranges from inexpensive fast food chains to gourmet restaurants decorated
with Michelin stars. You can enjoy a wide range of different cuisines: Sushi, Teishoku, Kaiseki,
Noodles and Japanese pubs as well as Vegetarian, Vegan and International cuisine and of course
Meat in all its variations. To ensure that sweet treats are not neglected, there is always at least one
café or tea shop in every chapter. No matter in which of the 20 district maps your hotel is located,
within walking distance there are always 8-24 restaurants available. For each of the 101 restaurants
described there is a photo from the outside to help you find it together with a map and text
description. There are colour photos of all recommended dishes, so that you can get an idea of the
dishes and you can even order them by referring to the book if you need to.
The prices are correct as at the end of 2018 and are a guide only; they
include sales tax of 8%. Often the price is shown without sales tax on
menus, it is only added when paying. From October 2019 the sales tax will
increase to 10%.
The telephone number is also printed for each restaurant. If you enter the phone number into
Google Maps in Tokyo or Apple's Map app, you're sure to find the right address. By the way, this
also works with navigation systems for taxis and rental cars. Instead of the closing times, in most
cases I have indicated the time for the last possible order (Last Order).
I hope you enjoy your culinary journey through Tokyo. Also with this book I am looking forward
again to any kind of feedback and hints for updating and further improvement. Please send your
messages by e-mail to tokyo@axelschwab.com.

Axel Schwab, March 2019


Map of Tokyo

Tokyo has a railway network unique worldwide. The best railway line to explore the centre of Tokyo
is the Yamanote line. It takes about an hour to go around the entire loop, which covers 30 stations and
about 35km. The numbers on the map refer to chapter numbers in the book. The districts highlighted
in grey on the map are easiest to reach on the Yamanote line. The other parts of the city with a white
background are easily accessible via the underground network. Google Maps can find you the best
connections between your hotel and restaurants to visit while in Japan.
Description of the 12 categories

Sushi
These restaurants exclusively serve raw fish in the well-known forms such as sashimi, nigiri, chirashi or maki, just to name the
most important. There are small shops with only a few seats and of course bigger restaurants and Kaiten sushi, where you take the
sushi plates off the conveyor belt yourself. In most cases you can sit at the counter and watch the sushi masters preparing the food.
1, 19, 53, 60, 66, 83, 86, 88, 92, 94

Teishoku
Teishoku is a set menu of traditional Japanese food, which mostly consists of a piece of fried or grilled fish or meat, and small side
dishes as well as rice and miso soup. Restaurants which offer no fish, but only meat dishes, I have assigned to the category
"Meat", although some, strictly speaking, would also belong to the Teishoku category.
27, 29, 32, 41, 46, 51, 81, 82, 87, 89

Kaiseki
The term stands for a light multi-course Japanese menu, often based on seasonal produce and exquisitely prepared and presented.
Under this term are very high-quality, traditional Japanese restaurants, which have predominantly Kaiseki menus.
11, 13, 33, 62, 91

Gourmet
Top restaurants, some of which have been decorated with Michelin stars, are in this category. Tokyo offers not only Japanese, but
also, for example, Chinese, French and Italian cuisine at the highest level.
12, 21, 59, 71, 96
Noodles
Very popular are the different types of noodles Ramen, Udon (wheat noodles) and Soba (buckwheat noodles). In winter it is
usually served in a warm soup, in summer the noodles are often dipped cold into a sauce and then eaten. There are both thin and
thick noodles and a wide variety of different sauces and soups such as miso, shoyu (soy sauce) and shio (salt).
3, 8, 14, 34, 36, 43, 48, 58, 69, 77

Izakaya
These can by no means be equated with a pub, because food is just as much a focus as the enjoyment of alcoholic beverages. In a
real Izakaya you order as a group from the wide selection of sharing plates, and then take what you want to eat from the middle of
the table. I have also taken the liberty of classifying here restaurants that are only open in the evening or that are well suited for
going out in the evening.
2, 7, 20, 37, 57, 67, 72–74, 84, 98

Organic
Under this term I bring together all the restaurants that attach particular importance to the origin of their products. Very often these
are vegetables that are purchased directly from organic farmers. Vegetarians and vegans will surely find what they are looking
for in these restaurants. However, there are very few purely vegan or vegetarian restaurants in Tokyo, so there are also often dishes
with fish or chicken. If you have a strict vegan or vegetarian diet, you should therefore explicitly indicate this when ordering.
16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 31, 38, 49, 52, 61

Meat
For all lovers of meat (Niku) there are restaurants in this category, which specialize in beef or pork dishes with different methods
of preparation. The best known of these are grilled beef, yakiniku, and breaded, fried pork cutlet, tonkatsu.
6, 18, 35, 42, 63, 68, 70, 76
Fast and Good
This group includes all the restaurant chains that you mainly visit in order to quickly get a full stomach for a small amount of
money. Whether beef on rice, noodle, tempura, curry dishes or hamburgers, there is something for everyone here.
4, 9, 26, 47, 78, 79, 93

Cafes
If you feel like a good cup of coffee, there are numerous alternatives to the Tokyo branches of well-known American chains.
Instead of an overpriced breakfast buffet in the hotel, some of the cafés listed here are a good place to enjoy buttered toast or a
cinnamon bun with a cup of coffee.
5, 10, 15, 30, 45, 55, 85, 90, 95, 97, 101

Sweets
More than coffee, the focus here is on fruit cups and ice cream. I'll also take you to shops selling legendary, traditional Japanese
desserts.
28, 39, 44, 50, 56, 65, 75, 99, 100

Tea
At the centre of these shops is tea, which can be enjoyed in all its variety. Whether as part of a small ceremony or simply as a tea
tasting or together with sweets, Japanese tea is always a great experience.
25, 40, 54, 64, 80
Six ways to choose a restaurant
Around railway stations
If you're looking for a restaurant close to a certain station, then simply follow the 20 main chapters, as each chapter focuses on the
restaurants within walking distance of the station the chapter is named by. Chain branches are additionally shown on the maps as
white numbers in black circles.

Near your hotel


In the overview map you can easily find out which chapters are closest to your hotel or current location. Then browse to the
corresponding pages with the detailed map and check what suits your taste on the basis of the restaurant descriptions.

By category
All restaurants are assigned to one of the 12 categories described above and listed there with their number at the end.

In search of the best


For each category there is my top ranking. Those who only strive for the best can be guided by the ranking lists.

Find restaurant and café chains


This list indicates the maps in which each chain restaurant or café branch is located. Some people may be worried about going to
chain restaurants because of concerns about the quality of the food or not getting authentic Japanese food. However, Japanese
chain restaurants generally have a better reputation than their counterparts in English speaking countries and I would encourage
visitors not to be afraid of trying them.

Schedule for 5 days


Gourmet tours according to your special preferences can be found at the very end of the book.
SHINAGAWA 品川
"High-Rise Buildings and a View of the Bay"

1. Tsukiji Tamasushi: Sushi chain in Tokyo


If you leave Shinagawa Station at the Takanawa Exit and walk straight
ahead across the zebra crossing, you will come directly to the stairs to the
basement of Wing Takanawa West. The illustrated Japanese menu of the
sushi restaurant offers a wide selection of sushi. On weekdays there is a
cheap sushi lunch set menu at noon for only ¥993.
Tip: My recommendation is Tsukiji Nigiri Sushi for ¥2268, which is
attractively served on a round wooden tray.
Minato-ku, 4-10-18 Takanawa
Mo-Sa 11am-10.30pm, Sun 11am-9.30pm
www.tamasushi.co.jp
Phone: 03-3443-5346

2. T.Y. Harbor: Sit by the water and enjoy a beer (Izakaya)


When you follow the arrow inside the map and walk over the bridge, you
can already see the buildings where you can sit outside in the summer,
directly by the water, and enjoy the homemade lemonade or the locally
brewed beer. The wide-ranging menu offers pizza, pasta, sandwiches and
grilled meat.
Tip: Many locals and tourists come to enjoy a spicy American Style Burger
(¥1700-2900).
Shinagawa-ku, 2-1-3 Higashi-Shinagawa
Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm and 5.30pm-10pm
Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm and 5.30pm-10pm
www.tysons.jp/tyharbor/en
Phone: 03-5479-1666

3. Sojibou: Soba noodles, sake or beer (Noodles)


The Shinagawa Intercity building group can be reached via the Sky Way
from the Konan Exit of Shinagawa Station. In the S&R Tower there are
shops and restaurants, I recommend Sojibou on the 3rd floor for some
noodles or, in the evening, to drink some beer or sake.
Tip:The specialty Hawasabi Soba is buckwheat noodles with wasabi leaves
and mountain vegetables for only ¥800.
Minato-ku, 2-15-2 Kounan
Mon-Fri 11am-2.45pm and 5pm-10.30pm
Sat 11am-7.30pm, Sun 11am-3.30pm
www.gomap.de/soji
Phone: 03-5479-0902

4. Yoshinoya: Cheap, fast beef bowls (Fast and Good)


The restaurant of this popular Gyudon chain is located directly in front of
the Konan Exit - easily recognisable by the lettering and the orange stripes.
Thanks to an English menu, ordering is easy and you simply pay when
leaving the restaurant.
Tip: Gyudon Regular Set for ¥510. The side dish is miso soup and salad (set
A), pickles (set B) or kimchi (set C).
Minato-ku, 2-2-15 Kounan
Open 24 hours a day
www.yoshinoya.com
Phone: 03-5495-7306

5. Doutor Coffee: Reasonably priced Japanese Coffee (Café)


A good and cheap alternative for breakfast if you can’t face the food offered
at the often quite expensive hotel buffets. For just ¥1000 you can get a large
Blend Coffee, a medium orange juice and two sweet pastries from Doutor.
At least one Doutor branch can be found on the map of each chapter except
for Nezu.
Tip: It is better to ask for the English menu at the checkout before pointing to
something wrong on the Japanese menu on display.
Shinagawa-ku, 2-17-9 Kitashinagawa
Mon-Fri 6.30am-9pm, Sat-Sun 7am-8pm
www.doutor.co.jp
Phone: 03-3458-0757
HAMAMATSUCHO 浜松町
"The Business District Gateway"

6. Shiba Koso: The best Wagyu beef (Meat)


The restaurant specializes in high-quality Japanese Wagyu beef. When you
are sitting at the counter, it is a pleasure to watch the cook prepare the food.
Thanks to the pictures it is easy to understand the Japanese menu.
Reservations are recommended.
Tip: At noon the menu has grilled fillet steak in a lacquer box for ¥3800.
Also included are starters, a dessert and coffee. The tender meat is perfectly
roasted and pink inside. Eaten with some wasabi, it adds a pleasant sharp
note. There’s also a variant with raw minced meat, egg and salmon roe on
rice.
Minato-ku, 1-3-12 Shibadaimon
Mon-Fri 11.30am-1.30pm and 6pm-9pm
www.shiba-koso.com
Phone: 03-3437-0007

7. Hokkaido: Izakaya chain with branches throughout the country


In the B1F, where restaurants are located in the tower of the World Trade
Center Buildings, the Hokkaido Izakaya chain has a branch. Everything can
be ordered via a webpad, which offers English menu navigation. It costs
about ¥3000 per person.
Tip: Order fried shrimp, seafood salad and side dishes.
Minato-ku, 2-4-1 Hamamatsucho
Open daily 11am-2.30pm and 4pm-9.30pm
www.hokkaido-aji.com
Phone: 03-5777-2424

8. Sarashina Nunoya: Over 200 years of Soba (Noodles)


This legendary Soba restaurant has been directly at the exit A6 of Daimon
station since 1913, but its history dates back to 1791. If you want to try
three different types of these traditional buckwheat noodles, order
Sanshoku Soba for ¥950.
Tip: The cold Zaru soba noodles for ¥700, which are also for dipping into a
type of broth, known as Tsuyu, before eating. At the end ask for Soba-yu,
the water the noodles were cooked in, which you can pour into the
remaining broth and drink as a warm soup.
Minato-ku, 1-15-8 Shibadaimon
Mon-Fri 11am-8.40pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6.40pm
www.sarashina-nunoya.com
Phone: 03-3436-3647

9. Coco Ichibanya: Curry around the clock (Fast and Good)


Near the big intersection the Curry House Coco Ichibanya, which is open
around the clock, attracts attention by its yellow sign. A special feature is
the manga library in the branches.
Tip: Ask for the English menu and choose a dish according to your personal
preference. Very popular here is the Pork Cutlet Curry, Rosu Katsu Curry,
for ¥753. You can choose the spiciness and quantity of rice. I always order
everything "normal".
Minato-ku, 1-27-10 Hamamatsucho
Open 24 hours a day
www.ichibanya.co.jp
Phone: 03-5777-1427

10. Ueshima Coffee: Recharge – you and your phone (Café)


In my opinion the coffee tastes a bit better here than at the Doutor chain and
thanks to the large selection of pastries, cakes, toast and sandwiches it is a
very good alternative to breakfast in the hotel. It is also a good place to go
during the day and you can charge your devices thanks to the many sockets.
Tip: Blend coffee (M) and melon bread, melon pan, for ¥590.
Minato-ku, 2-4-1 Shibadaimon
Mon-Fri 7am-10pm, Sat 7.30am-9.30pm, Sun 7.30am-9pm
www.ueshima-coffee-ten.jp
Phone: 03-5733-0650
SHIMBASHI 新橋
"An Office-Workers’ Paradise at Night"

11. Hanasanshou: Kaiseki cuisine at the highest level


The Hanasanshou is located on the 25th floor of the Park Hotel Tokyo and
specializes in the high-quality traditional Kaiseki cuisine in Kyoto style. In
the evening you can choose from three different menus (¥7560-12,960). For
guests of the hotel a special menu is offered. Also enjoy the Japanese
shochu. The restaurant is very popular, so an early reservation is
recommended for both lunch and dinner.
Tip: At noon the Shokado lunch box for ¥4514 includes various starters,
sashimi, steamed vegetables, rice, miso soup, Japanese pickles and a
dessert.
Shiodome Media Tower 25th floor
Minato-ku, 1-7-1 Higashi-Shimbashi
Open daily 11.30am-2pm and 5.30pm-9pm
www.parkhoteltokyo.com/hanasanshou
Phone: 03-6252-1177

12. Tateru Yoshino Bis: Gourmet French Cuisine


Like the Park Hotel Tokyo, the restaurant is located on the 25th floor of the
Shiodome Media Tower and offers excellent French cuisine. In the evening
set menus range from ¥7500-12,000. Reservations are always
recommended.
Tip: At noon the Menu Déjeuner for ¥3500 and optional starter for ¥500.
Also green tea is an extra ¥800, but water from the carafe is free.
Minato-ku, 1-7-1 Higashi-Shimbashi
Open daily 11.30am-2pm and 6pm-9.30pm
www.tateruyoshino.com
Phone: 03-6252-1155

13. Suegen Oyakodon: The chicken and the egg (Kaiseki)


The speciality of this restaurant, with a long history, is chicken dishes. In
the evening you can expect prices between ¥8000 and ¥15,000 for a set
menu. A classic is Oyakodon, which is soft scrambled egg with small
chunks of chicken cooked in broth on a bowl of rice.
The famous Oyakodon is available at noon as a KAMA Lunch Set for
Tip:
¥1200 (M) or a larger portion for ¥1300 (L).
Minato-ku, 2-15-7 Shimbashi
Mon-Fri 11.30am-1.30pm and 5.30pm-10pm
www.shinbashi-rk.com/shop/suegen
Phone: 03-3591-6214

14. Hokuto: Ramen soups at the station (Noodles)


Rich ramen soup with wheat noodles can be found here, directly at the
railway line, near the underpass. There is no English menu, but you can
distinguish the different types by the photos at the entrance.
Tip: Miso ramen, this is the ramen at the top left of the menu for ¥700. If
you like it spicy, order the right version for ¥580.
Minato-ku, 3-21-11 Shimbashi
Mo-Sa 10.30am-2am, Sun 11am-11pm
Phone: 03-3434-7005

15. Ogawaken: Italian coffee with sweet tartlets (Café)


Besides the actual confectionery shop, which became famous for its
RaisinWich biscuits, there is a tea salon. A Simonelli coffee machine from
Italy is used here to prepare espresso and other coffee specialities and polite
staff serve the delicious tartlets and sponge cake rolls on offer.
Tip: Chestnuts from Kumamoto are used in the production of Mont Blanc
for ¥702; it is one of the most popular cakes here. Originally a European
invention, the delicious tartlets made from chestnut puree can be bought in
many variations all over Japan.
Minato-ku, 2-20-15 Shimbashi
Mon-Fri 9.30am-7pm, Sat 9.30am-5pm
www.ogawaken.co.jp
Phone: 03-3571-7500
YURAKUCHO 有楽町
"Dine Alongside High-End Fashion or Under the Tracks"

16. Akomeya: Japanese delicatessen (Organic)


In a side street of Ginza is this delicatessen with a large selection of rice,
Japanese food and crockery. In addition, you can eat very well in the
restaurant on the ground floor.
Tip: Only from 11am until 2pm there is Kobachi-zen for ¥2500. Small bowls
with various delicious dishes, rice, miso soup and pickles are served on a
tray.
Chuo-ku, 2-2-6 Ginza
Open daily 11am-9pm
www.akomeya.jp
Phone: 03-6758-0270

17. Noka no Daidokoro: Food from organic farmers (Organic)


On the 7th floor of the Albore Ginza there is this restaurant which buys high-
quality vegetables, salad, eggs and meat directly from organic farmers. The
lunch buffet is very popular here. Besides a lot of raw food there is also a
wide selection of cooked dishes. Please Note - there is meat in some dishes.
Tip: On weekdays there is a lunch buffet for ¥1480, which you can enjoy for
one hour. For ¥500 you can extend by 30 minutes. Weekend prices are ¥300
higher.
Chuo-ku, 2-4-18 Ginza
Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm, Sat-Sun 11am-3.30pm, Open daily 5.30pm-9pm
www.noukanodaidokoro.com
Phone: 03-5159-4831

18. Kamon Teppanyaki: The best beef on the grill (Meat)


On the top floor of the famous Imperial Hotel you will find one of the best
Teppanyaki restaurants in Tokyo. The cooks prepare the dishes on the hot
plate in front of the guests, and I strongly recommend that you try the high-
quality Japanese beef here. Cooked to perfection, the meat is crispy brown
on the outside and tender pink or raw on the inside, grilled according to
your wishes. Season the pieces of meat yourself with salt and pepper as you
like and add fried bean sprouts and garlic chips.
Tip:At noon you pay ¥5800 (US Steak) for the cheapest menu, in the
evening the menu costs ¥18,000-37,800.
Chiyoda-ku, 1-1-1 Uchisaiwai
Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9.30pm
www.imperialhotel.co.jp/e/tokyo
Phone: 03-3539-8116

19. Midori-zushi: Queue for delicious and inexpensive sushi


In the restaurant row on the edge of the Ginza, the restaurant stands out for
its traditional exterior and the presence of a queue of people. However, it is
worth waiting, as you get high-quality, fresh sushi at acceptable prices here.
Tip: The Ultimate Sushi-Assortment sushi plate exhibited at the entrance
costs only ¥2160 (¥2000 + VAT).
Chuo-ku, 7-2 Ginza
Mo-Sa 11am-9.30pm, Sun 11am-8.30pm
www.sushinomidori.co.jp
Phone: 03-5568-1212

20. Baden-Baden: German beer and food (Izakaya)


If you fancy German food and beer, you will find it here, under an old vault
of the Yamanote line, near Yurakucho railway station. There’s a large
selection of sausages, sauerkraut, pork knuckle, goulash and schnitzel.
Tip: The Maultaschen (like a giant ravioli) in broth with different beans
tastes almost like it does in Germany (¥713).
Chiyoda-ku, 2-1-8 Yurakucho
Mon-Fri 5pm-10.30pm, Sat-Sun 4pm-9.30pm
www.badenbaden-net.com
Phone: 03-3508-2807
TOKYO 東京
"Vegan and Vegetarian discoveries in an Iconic Location"

21. Auxamis: Wine and dine with a view (Gourmet)


From the window seat of the restaurant on the 35th floor of the Marunouchi
Building you have a great view of Tokyo railway station and can enjoy
good French cuisine and large selection of expensive wines. Evening menu
for ¥8078 and ¥11,880.
Tip: Mon-Fri Lunch Menu A for ¥1800 (with service fee and taxes ¥2138)
you can choose from four main courses, Sat-Sun Lunch Menu B for only
¥2800.
Chiyoda-ku, 2-4-1 Marunouchi
Open daily 11am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-9.30pm
auxamis.com/tokyo
Phone: 03-5220-4011

22. Hon no Chotto: Vegetarian food at the Palace Hotel (Organic)


In the basement of the Palace Hotel, among other restaurants, is Hon no
Chotto. Apart from vegetarian dishes, there’s also fish and meat, French
wines and other alcoholic drinks, so that you can enjoy a cheap lunch as
well as a convivial evening. In the evening there is cheese fondue including
drinks from ¥4500.
Tip: Try the lunchtime vegetable curry with rice and salad (¥1100).
Chiyoda-ku, 1-1-1 Marunouchi
Open daily 11am-2.30pm, Mon-Fri 5pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 5pm-8.30pm
palace.honnochotto.com
Phone: 03-6269-9803

23. Musmus: A health food bar (Organic)


On the 7th floor of the Shin-Marunouchi Building there is mainly steamed
food, both pure vegetarian, and with meat. The evening menu offers
Izakaya-style dishes to choose from and in summer you can sit on the
outdoor terrace and celebrate the night with sake and beer.
Tip: At noon, order the top item on the Japanese menu for ¥1100; you have
the choice between chicken and vegetarian.
Chiyoda-ku, 1-5-1 Marunouchi
Mon-Sun 11am-2.30pm, Mon-Sat 5pm-3am, Sun 5pm-10.30pm
www.musmus.jp
Phone: 03-5218-5200

24. T´s Tantan: Vegan ramen in Tokyo station (Organic)


If you follow the signs to the Keiyo Line inside Tokyo Station, you will get
to Keiyo Street and at the end, before the escalators go down, you will find
this vegan ramen restaurant. Those who know normal ramen will be
surprised at how authentic vegan ramen can taste. A portion of ramen costs
¥780-900 and for ¥100 extra you get a large portion.
Tip: White sesame tantan with sesame, peanut, soy meat and vegetables
(¥850). Note: If you are not arriving by train on a JR line, there is the
Soranoiro Nippon Restaurant on Tokyo Ramen Street at the Yaesu South
Exit.
Chiyoda-ku, 1-9-1 Marunouchi
Mon-Sun 7am-10.30pm
www.ts-restaurant.jp
Phone: 03-3218-8040

25. Ippodo Tea: Matcha from the cultural home of tea


Matcha, Gyokuro, Sencha and Bancha from Kyoto are served here. From
11am to 1.30pm only, there are cheaper offers under ¥1000. Matcha by the
bowl costs up to ¥2376 depending on the quality and it is served with
sweets.
Tip: Always order the Koicha for Matcha. This is very strong and viscous,
almost half of it remains in the bowl, which is then used to prepare a
Usucha for you.
Chiyoda-ku, 3-1-1 Marunouchi
Open daily 11am-7pm
www.ippodo-tea.co.jp
Phone: 03-6212-0202
AKIHABARA 秋葉原
"Anime, manga and maids - pop culture in the Electric Town"

26. Matsuya: 24-hour gyudon (Fast and Good)


The restaurants in this chain are easily recognisable by their logo with the
red circle containing two small yellow and blue circles. The most popular
dish is Gyudon, which is a bowl of rice covered with beef, sauce and
onions. First you have to buy a ticket at the machine before sitting down,
and then a server will collect your ticket and bring your food. For the old
machines, with no display, you need to insert your money first, and then
choose your food. The new machines have a bilingual display to browse the
menu and choose your dishes before inserting your money.
Tip: Premium Gyumeshi (normal size) with miso soup for only ¥380.
Chiyoda-ku, 1 Kanda Matsunagacho
Open 24 hours a day
www.matsuyafoods.co.jp
Phone: 03-5289-9505

27. Barichou: Chicken, chicken (Teishoku)


In the upper floor (2F in Japan) of Akihabara UDX you will find many
restaurants, but chicken delicacies are only available at Barichou.
Unfortunately the charcoal grill for Yakitori is not started until 5pm. Thanks
to the bilingual order form selection is easy, a skewer costs ¥190-350.
Cheap lunch sets with chicken are available until 3pm from ¥540.
Tip: At Happy Hour from 11am to 7pm many drinks cost only ¥300.
Chiyoda-ku, 4-14-1 Sotokanda
Mo-Sa 11am-11pm, Sun 11am-10pm
Phone: 03-5256-7471

28. @home cafe: A maid café with cutesy food (Sweets)


Those who would like to visit a Maid Café can do this, for example, on the
5th floor of Don Quijote Akihabara, as there one is prepared with English
menus for tourists. You pay almost ¥600 entrance fee and also order a drink
and, if necessary, something to eat. In addition a Polaroid photo is taken
with a maid of your choice.
If you can do without cute decorations on your pancakes and prefer a
Tip:
good taste, you should go to Royal Host.
Chiyoda-ku, 4-3-3 Sotokanda
Mon-Fri 11am-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm
www.cafe-athome.com
Phone: 03-3254-7878

29. Royal Host: Family restaurant with classics (Teishoku)


The family restaurants belonging to the Royal Host chain can be easily
recognised by their orange signs. The dishes taste good and you can sit
comfortably most of the time. They have menus in English, but thanks to
the many photos the Japanese menu is actually easier to use.
Tip: A classic dish is the Royal Omrice, an omelette filled with rice and
served with a rich brown sauce and small pieces of beef (¥1134).
Chiyoda-ku, 4-5-4 Sotokanda
Open daily 9am-11.30pm
www.royalhost.jp
Phone: 03-5209-2632

30. Vie de France: Self-serve French pastries (Café)


A large selection of fresh pastries can always be found in this chain, which
is widespread in Japan. This branch is located directly in front of the
station. Simply select your own items, place them on a tray and order and
pay for drinks at the counter.
Tip: A Pain Au Raisin Au Beurre and a cup of Blend Coffee siphon for
¥500.
Chiyoda-ku, 1-18-18 Sotokanda
Mo-Sa 7am-10.30pm, Sun 8am-10.30pm
www.viedefrance.co.jp
Phone: 03-5294-3390
UENO 上野
"A Walk in the Park and Traditional Buildings"

31. Innsyoutei: Vegetables and fish in bamboo (Organic)


It is beautiful downstairs in the teahouse, but the old interior is equally as
lovely on the upper floor. Evening Kaiseki from ¥5500, cash only.
Reservations for lunch and dinner are especially recommended on
weekends.
Tip: At noon Chatubo Sandan Bentou for ¥1680, which contains fish,
vegetarian on request. If you are not a vegetarian, take Hanakagozen Yuki
for ¥2000, which is served in a bamboo basket.
Taito-ku, 4-59 Uenokoen
Open daily 11am-3pm and 5pm-9.30pm, Sun 5pm-8.30pm
www.innsyoutei.jp
Phone: 03-3821-8126

32. Syutei Juraku: Cheap food in Ameyoko (Teishoku)


When entering the main Ameyoko shopping street, after 50m you will see
this inexpensive restaurant on the left side. You can find a good selection of
Japanese dishes such as tempura, soba and raw fish there.
Tip: The lunch menu Kasein-don, which is various types of raw seafood on
a bowl of rice with miso soup and pickles for just ¥1296.
Taito-ku, 6-11-6 Ueno
Mon-Fri 11.30am-10pm, Sat-Sun 11.30am-9pm
www.juraku.com
Phone: 03-3831-9640

33. Izuei: Grilled eel with a view (Kaiseki)


Directly at the edge of the Toshogu temple is a speciality restaurant for
grilled eel. With a little luck, you get a seat with a view of the lake. Eel in a
lacquered wooden box or ceramic bowl can be had here in portions of 110
g, 150 g, 190 g for ¥3240, ¥4320 and ¥5400 respectively, with pickles and a
clear soup.
Tip: The middle size eel in the box.
Taito-ku, 4-34 Uenokoen
Mon-Sat 11am-2.30pm and 5pm-9.30pm, Sun 11am-9.30pm
www.izuei.co.jp
Phone: 03-5685-2011

34. Ichiran: Customized tonkotsu ramen (Noodles)


Often the queue at this well-known chain for Tonkotsu ramen is as long as
at passport control; during peak hours the waiting time can be up to 40
minutes. The rich taste of the broth comes from cooked pork bones. Tourists
will receive the form for customization of their ramen, in English, right
away.
Tip: A clove of garlic costs no extra, two cloves cost ¥120 extra. I always take
the half soft boiled egg for ¥130, choose medium for Original Spicy Red
Sauce and firm for the noodle texture. After you have been admitted, you
can buy tickets for ramen (¥890) and any extras you have chosen at the
vending machine. At your seat you hand in the filled out form just like at
passport control.
Taito-ku, 7-1-1 Ueno
Open 24 hours a day
www.ichiran.com
Phone: 03-5826-5861

35. Tokori: Korean BBQ – A Japanese favourite (Meat)


This Yakiniku restaurant is located directly in front of the Shinobazu exit at
Ueno station on the edge of Ueno Park in Bamboo Garden 3F. There you
grill the meat at the table, on charcoal, in Korean style. In the evening you
have to expect to pay about ¥5000 per person. Besides grilled meat there
are also other Korean dishes like Bibimbap. As a special service, there is a
mouth rinsing solution in the toilet.
Tip: At noon choose the set for ¥1650. You can get a large portion of rice for
free on request. If you want 1.5 times more meat, you have to pay ¥500
extra.
Taito-ku, 1-52 Uenokoen
Mon-Sa 11am-11.30pm, Sun 11am-10pm
www.to-ko-ri.jp
Phone: 03-5807-2255
NEZU 根津
"Traditional Dishes in the Temple city of Yanaka"

36. Kamachiku: The best Udon in an old warehouse (Noodles)


This outstanding udon restaurant is located in a beautifully restored old
Kura warehouse. The thick wheat noodles are freshly made and the various
side dishes such as tempura, tofu, fish and pickled vegetables are all
extremely tasty. Longer waiting times may occur at noon, as reservations
are only possible in the evening. Unfortunately, on the English menu, the
individual side dishes do not have prices. At noon, prices start from about
¥1000. In the evening, menus for ¥3500 or ¥5000 can be pre-ordered.
Tip: Omori Zaru-Udon. The cold, firm noodles are dipped into a sauce in
which you can add crispy tempura flakes, shallots, spices and grated ginger.
Bunkyo-ku, 2-14-18 Nezu
Tue-Sun 11.30am-2pm and Tue-Sat 5.30pm-9pm
www.kamachiku.com
Phone: 03-5815-4675

37. Hantei Kushiage: Not just street food (Izakaya)


Fried food on skewers, Kushiage, are the speciality here, which you can
enjoy in an old three-storey wooden house not far from the subway station
Nezu. On the ground floor you sit at tables, on the two upper floors you sit,
quite traditionally, on the floor. Lunch menu from ¥3000, reservation in the
evening recommended.
Tip: In the evening, first order a set of six skewers and side dishes for ¥2900,
then order an additional six skewers for ¥1400 until you are full.
Bunkyo-ku, 2-12-15 Nezu
Tue-Sun 11.30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm
www.hantei.co.jp
Phone: 03-3828-1440

38. Nezunoya: Enjoy vegan food – to stay or to go (Organic)


A vegan restaurant and grocery store located in the immediate vicinity of
Nezu station. For ¥1450 there is a lunch menu with a main course,
vegetables, brown rice, miso soup and homemade pickles.
For those in a hurry there is an appetizing bento box to take away for
Tip:
¥1080.
Bunkyo-ku, 1-1-14 Nezu
Mo, Tue, Thu-Sat 11.30am-3.30pm
www.nezunoya.com
Phone: 03-3823-0030

39. Imojin: Traditional Japanese desserts (Sweets)


This small café has been serving traditional Japanese desserts and delicious
ice cream since 1912. The recommendation of the locals is a bowl of
Anmitsu with vanilla ice cream, red bean paste, fruit and jelly cubes in a
syrupy sauce for ¥480. Since an English menu is missing, the showcase
with the plastic models helps.
Tip: If the café is full, simply buy a ¥120 Monaka ice cream at the take-out
counter.
Bunkyo-ku, 2-30-4 Nezu
Tue-Sun 11am-6.40pm
Phone: 03-3821-5530

40. Tourindou: Japanese sweets in a small tea house (Tea)


At the crossroads before leaving Yanaka in the direction of the Ueno
Museum area, there is the only Tokyo branch of the Tourindou chain, where
you can not only buy the popular Japanese sweets wagashi, but also enjoy
them directly in the shop together with a cup of Matcha. Unfortunately
there are only 9 seats.
Tip: Matcha and a carp shaped sweet filled with sweet beans for ¥756.
Taito-ku, 1-5-7 Uenosakuragi
Tue-Sun 9am-5pm
www.tourindou100.jp
Phone: 03-3828-9826
OSHIAGE 押上
"Towering dishes at the Tokyo Skytree"

41. Umaya: Kyushu cuisine (Teishoku)


Here you will find the cuisine typical of the southern island of Kyushu. The
popular ¥1800 set includes various pieces of fish and vegetables in small
bowls, as well as fried chicken and a fried shrimp. The Anin tofu dessert is
delicious. Evian water is included free of charge.
Tip: If you want, you can whip up a raw egg and pour it over the rice.
Tokyo Skytree Town Solamachi 6F
Sumida-ku, 1-1-2 Oshiage
Open daily 11am-10pm
www.jrfs.co.jp/umaya
Phone: 03-5610-2742

42. Rikyu Gyutan: Nose to tail - grilled beef tongue (Meat)


The speciality here is Okinawa-style beef tongues, i.e. thick slices of beef
tongue are grilled on charcoal so that they are crispy on the outside and
tender on the inside. A normal portion of beef tongue is available for ¥1296,
or you can choose a larger portion, with some pickled vegetables as a side
dish. If you like, you can also order a set with rice and soup (from ¥1782,
bottom right of the bilingual menu).
Tip: There are long waiting times at peak hours, so it is better to go there at
11am or in the early evening.
Tokyo Skytree Town Solamachi 6F
Sumida-ku, 1-1-2 Oshiage
Mon-Fri 11am-10.30pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-10.30pm
www.rikyu-gyutan.co.jp
Phone: 03-5610-2855

43. Kamimura Soba House: Tower style tempura (Noodles)


Since the opening of the Tokyo Skytree, the Tendon Tower Style has been
offered as a curious specialty in this Soba restaurant: three fried prawns put
upright on rice for ¥1800.
Tip: Cheaper are dishes like Zaru Soba, Tempura Soba, Ten Zaru Soba or
Oden. A miso soup costs ¥200.
Sumida-ku, 1-18-13 Narihira
Mon-Sat 11am-8pm, Sun 11am-3pm
Phone: 03-3625-1205

44. Sakura Cafe Mukojima: Skytree high sundaes (Sweets)


If you get a seat here and there are two of you, you can order a 63.4 cm
high ice cream sundae Iki for ¥1800 and enjoy it together. The delicious
green tea soft ice cream is also available for ¥300 to go.
Tip: Those who want a healthy dessert should try a portion of sweetened red
peas Mamekan for ¥600. Other desserts taste better, but contain much more
sugar.
Sumida-ku, 1-17-5 Narihira
Thu-Tue 12am-5pm
www.gomap.de/saku
Phone: 03-6658-8435

45. Mister Donut: A Japanese version of an American classic (Café)


Any branch of Mister Donut is a good alternative to having breakfast at the
hotel. There’s a large selection of donuts from ¥108; especially
recommended are the "old-fashion-style" donuts with a cracked crust on
top, which usually cost ¥129. Close to the Tokyo Skytree you will find a
branch directly at the wide street Asakusa Dori.
Tip: If you choose the normal blend coffee for ¥302, you can have the cup
refilled at the counter as often as you like.
Sumida-ku, 3-13-6 Narihira
Mon-Fri 8am-10pm, Sat-Sun 9am-10pm
www.misterdonut.jp
Phone: 03-5819-8515
IKEBUKURO 池袋
"Lots of shops and ice-cream heaven"

46. Ootoya: Teishoku chain with low prices


By means of the blue square signs you can find the restaurants in this chain
quite simply. The restaurant in Ikebukuro is on the ground floor; the others
are mostly in the basement or on the 2F. For less than ¥1000 you will be
satisfied with a complete Teishoku menu and thanks to a good English
menu you can also choose the options for the rice easily and order
additional side dishes if necessary.
Tip: Select a Teishoku set from the English menu. I recommend the grilled
fish.
Toshima-ku, 1-1-10 Higashi-Ikebukuro
Mon-Sun 7am-10.30pm
www.ootoya.com
Phone: 03-3985-6134

47. Marugame Seimen: Quick stop udon chain (Fast and Good)
This chain is known for its tasty udon noodles, which cost between ¥290
and ¥510 per serving. The selection of the different varieties is facilitated
by an English menu.
Tip: Torotama Udon with yam root and onsen egg. You add shallots and
fried breadcrumbs according to your taste. It is recommended to get some
fried vegetables, like pumpkin or sweet potatoes, at the counter for ¥100
each as an additional topping or side dish.
Toshima-ku, 2-26-10 Minami-Ikebukuro
Open daily 11am-10.30pm
www.toridoll.com/shop/marugame
Phone: 03-5391-7422

48. Tokyo Underground Ramen Ganja: Rich ramen and broth (Noodles)
In the underground passage of the Tobu Hope Center you can buy
Tsukumen Ramen, where you dip the firm, homemade, thick noodles into a
rich, creamy, fish-based broth. The soup is drunk at the end after the staff
has added hot water. First buy a ticket at the Japanese labelled vending
machine, the button for Tsukumen ramen is at the top left.
Tip:Press the 2nd button from the top left (¥830). If you want an even
stronger broth with more meat and an egg, press the button at the top left
(¥1030). When you hand in your ticket you will be asked if you want more
(M - 300 g) or less (S - 200 g) noodles, the price is the same.
Toshima-ku, 1-1-30 Nishi-Ikebukuro
Open daily 10am-9.30pm
www.ganja.co.jp
Phone: 03-5950-7880

49. Irodoriya: Healthy teishoku (Organic)


Healthy Teishoku menus, some change seasonally, can be found on the 8th
floor of SEIBU Ikebukuro in sector B5 on the orientation map there. On my
last visit I ate a menu consisting of salad with yuba, fried chicken and
vegetables, tempura vegetables and fish, sashimi salad, brown rice and a
clear soup and dessert. The set menus cost between ¥1050 and ¥1640.
Tip: The current seasonal menu or what you like on the illustrated menu.
Toshima-ku, 1-28-1 Minami-Ikebukuro
Mon-Fri 11am-10.30pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-10.30pm
Phone: 03-3987-6211

50. Kyo Hayashiya: Matcha soft serve from Kyoto (Sweets)


Just opposite Irodoriya in sector A5 is this café from Kyoto, which offers
many delicacies based on matcha. The matcha soft serve ice cream with
matcha jelly for ¥702 is excellent.
Tip: If you don't like jelly cubes, buy the soft ice cream for ¥584 in a waffle
cone.
Toshima-ku, 1-28-1 Minami-Ikebukuro
Mon-Fri 11am-10.30pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-10.30pm
www.kyo-hayashiya.com
Phone: 03-6914-2337
OMOTESANDO 表参道
"A Designer Life - Organic Food, Pop Art and Cool Coffee"

51. A to Z cafe: Pop art chic (Teishoku)


The restaurant on the 5th floor of the equbo building, is a popular café
designed by Japanese pop artist Yoshitomo Nara and is located in a small
side street. With a lot of luck you will get a window seat with a wonderful
view over Aoyama.
Tip: The lunch menu for ¥1080 consists of fish or meat, salad, miso soup,
rice mixed with grains and a small side dish. Tea or coffee cost ¥216 extra.
Minato-ku, 5-8-3 Minamiaoyama
Open daily 12am-11pm (lunch menu until 4pm)
atozcafe.exblog.jp
Phone: 03-5464-0281

52. Hiroba Organic Restaurant: An organic buffet (Organic)


In the basement of Crayon House there is the Hiroba Organic Restaurant,
which uses only organic products. The lunch buffet (¥1500) and the evening
buffet (¥2700) are very popular, especially on weekends when there may be
longer waiting times at noon, but reservations can be made in the evening.
Tip: Come between 3pm and 5pm and order the curry with wholemeal rice
for ¥1512. There are two sauces to choose from: Chicken or Spicy
Vegetarian, you can also try both at the same price (2-Color Curry).
Minato-ku, 3-8-15 Kitaaoyama
Mon-Fri 11am-10pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-10pm
www.crayonhouse.co.jp
Phone: 03-3406-6409

53. Sushi Masuda: Sushi from a young master


From exit B1 of Omotesando station, walk to the junction, turn left and then
left at Niessing jewellery shop into the side street. The entrance is right at
the white column through the door and take the elevator to B1F. The young
sushi master, who is decorated with two Michelin stars, learned his trade
from the famous Jiro and has such a perfect command of his craft that it is a
real pleasure to watch him do it. Reservation absolutely necessary, since
there are only six seats.
Tip: Nigiri Omakase for ¥30,240 with green tea or a good sake.
Minato-ku, 5-8-11 Minamiaoyama
Mo-Sat 12pm-2pm and 5.30pm-10pm
www.sushimasuda.jp
Phone: 03-6418-1334

54. Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience: Exclusive tea tasting menu


On the 5th floor of the Spiral building you can experience different teas in an
exclusive way. From ¥3800 one experiences an impressive multi-course tea
experience with small side dishes, (duration approx. 1 hour, an English
menu is available).
Tip: If you are in a hurry, you can drink a single tea for ¥400 in the front part
of the shop, standing up, for a second infusion you pay another ¥100.
Minato-ku, 5-6-23 Minamiaoyama (5F)
(The building directly at exit B1 Omotesando station)
Open daily 11am-8pm
www.sakurai-tea.jp
Phone: 03-6451-1539

55. Streamer Coffee: An award-winning barista (Café)


One of the best coffees, from an award-winning barista, known for his
beautiful patterns in the milk froth, is available off the beaten track at the
bottom of Cat Street. The most popular drink is the Streamer Latte which
costs ¥570.
Tip: If you want something even more original with Matcha, Espresso and
milk foam with a taste of white chocolate, order a Military Latte for a proud
¥780.
Shibuya-ku, 1-20-28 Shibuya
Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm
www.streamer.coffee
Phone: 03-6427-3705
SHINJUKU 新宿
"Culinary highlights of the shopping and entertainment district"

56. Takano Fruit Parlor: The best fruit cup in Tokyo (Sweets)
From Shinjuku station, you can get directly to the Takano building
underground via the A7 exit. Above ground, you will find the entrance on
the right side of the building. In the basement (B1F in Japan) you can
admire the fruit, some cost more than ¥10,000. On the 5th floor you can
enjoy the fruit cups of this renowned and old tea parlor. No English menu,
therefore use the photos for orientation. Long waiting times on weekends.
Tip: The legendary Muskmelon Parfait for ¥2160, with many pieces of the
sugar sweet and tasty honeydew melon.
Shinjuku-ku, 3-26-11 Shinjuku
Open daily 11am-8.30pm
takano.jp
Phone: 03-5368-5147

57. Taruichi: Whale meat and sake (Izakaya)


In the basement of the Hotel Citadines Central Shinjuku this Izakaya is
known for its good sake selection, and offering dishes with whale meat. It
might be shocking for some readers to find such a place in this book, and I
do not recommend ordering it. However, as eating whale is a part of
Japanese culture, and as it is available in some Izakayas, I did not like to
exclude it. The landlord, Shintaro Sato, tells interested customers about the
over 4000 years old tradition, with emphasis on the fact that all parts of the
whale are eaten or otherwise used. Instead of whale meat I recommend you
order other dishes from the menu like sashimi and fried vegetables.
Tip: Try the house sake Kin Raberu (gold label) for ¥730 per serving.
Shinjuku-ku, 1-2-9 Kabukicho
Mo-Sat 5pm-9.30pm, Sun 16-9pm
www.taruichi.co.jp
Phone: 03-3208-9772

58. Tsurutontan: Udon in very large bowls (Noodles)


The restaurant produces fresh Udon noodles daily and is located in the
middle of the Kabukicho entertainment district, so waiting times for a seat
are common. Very popular is the dish Spicy Pollock Roe Thick Egg Drop
Ankake Udon. Those who do not like fish eggs or spicy foods will find
many other varieties on offer.
Tip: Kitsune Udon for ¥880 is garnished with a slice of deep-fried tofu. More
noodles, 1.5-3 times the quantity, depending on your wishes, are available at
no extra charge.
Shinjuku-ku, 2-26-3 Kabukicho
Open daily 11am-8am next day
www.tsurutontan.co.jp
Phone: 03-5287-2626

59. Nakajima: Fish from a starred chef (Gourmet)


In a side street next to BEAMS, Nakajima, who has been awarded a
Michelin star for his excellent fish dishes, cooks in the basement of the
Hihara Building. In the evening you have to make a reservation, menus are
available from ¥8640.
Tip: Line up for lunch and order ¥900 fried sardines with egg Yanagawa
Nabe Teishoku.
Shinjuku-ku, 3-32-5 Shinjuku
Mon-Sa 11.30am-1.45pm and 5.30pm-8pm
www.shinjyuku-nakajima.com
Phone: 03-3356-4534

60. Hina Sushi: All-You-Can-Eat-Sushi


In the building of the Shinjuku Marui Annex there is the big cinema, Wald
9, at the top and some restaurants on the 8F. If you are very hungry for
sushi, it is advisable to order All-You-Can-Eat-Sushi from Hina Sushi. Men
pay ¥4309, women ¥3661 and children from 4 to 10 years ¥2149. However,
this is only worth it in the evening, and if you eat many of the expensive
sushi varieties. Until 5pm it is better to take a sushi set, which costs ¥1069-
2581 depending on the portion size.
Tip: Large Sushi Lunch Set for ¥1609 contains 14 Nigiri, 1 Temaki and
Miso soup.
Shinjuku-ku, 3-1-26 Shinjuku
Mo-Sa 11am-10pm, Sun 11am-9.30pm
www.gomap.de/hina
Phone: 03-5367-3705
HARAJUKU 原宿
"Dining with Style in the fashion district"

61. Brown Rice Canteen: Vegetarian Gourmet Cuisine (Organic)


Neal´s Yard, mainly known for organic cosmetics, runs this beautiful
restaurant with healthy dishes based mainly on wholemeal rice, vegetables,
tofu and miso. The origin of the food and the restaurant’s philosophy are
described in detail in the English menu.
Tip: The One Soup + Three Sides Set is a real feast for the eyes and tastes
great. You get this set for ¥1700 on weekdays and ¥2200 on weekends and
holidays.
Shibuya-ku, 5-1-8 Jingumae
Open daily 11.30am-6pm (Last order 5pm)
www.nealsyard.co.jp/brownrice
Phone: 03-5778-5416

62. Sahsya Kanetanaka: Chic, artist designed restaurant (Kaiseki)


The easiest way to get to the restaurant on the upper floor (2F) of the Oak
Omotesando building is to take the elevator from the A1 exit of
Omotesando station. Both the entrance and the interior were designed by
the famous photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto. Extensive menus of high-
quality Japanese cuisine are available for ¥5000 and ¥8000.
Tip: Only at noon, there is a discounted menu with starter. Depending on
your preferences, you can choose two half main courses from the menu,
including a small dessert and drink - you pay only ¥3000.
Minato-ku, 3-6-1 Kitaaoyama
Open daily 11.30am-2pm and 2pm-8.30pm
www.kanetanaka.co.jp/restrant/sahsya
Phone: 03-6450-5116

63. Maisen Tonkatsu: Famous Japanese cutlet (Meat)


Long queues often form in front of the black building of this well-known
Tonkatsu restaurant, because here you can get the best pork cutlet in
Japanese style. On weekends it is better to come at 11am or to buy a lunch
box at the take-out counter. The building used to be a bathhouse, which you
can still see from the high ceilings in the rear guest room. The sauce in the
large pot is for the cutlet, while that in the small pot is to pour over the
white cabbage.
Tip: For ¥3100 I recommend the Japanese black pork Kurobuta Loin Pork
Cutlet Set or Kurobuta Fillet Pork Cutlet Set, if you prefer it lean.
Shibuya-ku, 4-8-5 Jingumae
Open daily 11am-10pm
www.mai-sen.com
Phone: 0120-428-485

64. Chachanoma: Great desserts from the tea sommelier (Tea)


Here the certified tea sommelier Yoshi Watada prepares high-quality
Japanese teas for you. Choose between foamy Matcha and green tea, which
is served in three infusions. There’s also an excellent selection of desserts.
Tip: The ice cream made of brown cane sugar with agar, red beans and small
mochi dumplings harmonizes perfectly with the Matcha and costs ¥1728 as
a set.
Shibuya-ku, 5-13-14 Jingumae
Tue-Sun 11am-6pm, closed every 2nd Tue in the month
www.chachanoma.com
Phone: 03-5468-8846

65. Marion Crêpes: Original Japanese crêpes (Sweets)


These famous Japanese crêpes have been sold here since 1976. Thanks to
the sign in the colours blue-white-red, the stand, at a street corner, in
Takeshita Dori cannot be missed.
Tip: Green tea milk choco-brownie (No. 88) for ¥500.
Shibuya-ku, 1-6-15 Jingumae
Mon-Fri 10.30am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm
www.marion.co.jp
Phone: 03-3401-7297
SHIBUYA 渋谷
"Over the scramble crossing - find food and fashion"

66. Katsu Midori: Delicious sushi-go-round


On the 8th floor of the SEIBU department store (A) is this always well-
visited conveyor belt Sushi restaurant, which offers cheap and delicious
Sushi in great variety. You simply take the plates off the conveyor belt line
or order them additionally via a webpad, which can easily be switched to
English. At the end the plates are counted and calculated (¥108-540 per
serving). At peak times there is a very long queue, but it moves fast.
Tip: Please also note the daily menu with freshly caught fish of the season.
Shibuya-ku, Udagawacho 21-1
Open daily 11am-10pm
www.katumidori.co.jp
Phone: 03-5728-4282

67. Ika Center: The freshest possible raw squid (Izakaya)


In the basement of the Shin Taiso Bld. No3, lovers of raw fish can get their
money's worth. The speciality in this Izakaya is freshly caught, living squid,
which are professionally cut up and served raw. The Japanese menu
changes depending on the fishing situation and there is an extensive drinks
menu. Reservation recommended.
Tip: Order a whole raw squid Ika, there are different sizes, which cost
between ¥3000 and ¥6000.
Note: Only the head of the fish is given to the kitchen at the end for grilling.
Shibuya-ku, 14-10-12 Dogenzaka
Mo-Sa 5.30pm-10pm, Sun 5.30pm-9pm
www.ikacenter.com
Phone: 03-6416-1500

68. Shabuzen: Beef in broth (Meat)


This Shabu-Shabu restaurant is located in the basement of the Creston
Hotel. In Shabu-Shabu you dip thin slices of beef and vegetables into a hot
broth at the table. All-you-can-eat is available for ¥4900-15,800 per person,
depending on the quality of Wagyu meat.
Tip: Instead of All-you-can-eat there is one portion for ¥4300-8900.
Shibuya-ku, 10-8 Kamiyamacho
Open daily 5pm-10.30pm
shibuya.shabuzen.jp
Phone: 03-3485-0800

69. Kiraku: Classic Tokyo ramen (Noodles)


Often there is a long queue in front of this restaurant, because since 1952
they have been offering some of the best classic varieties of ramen,
especially the ones popular in Tokyo. The preparation, where the cook
swings his noodle sieve with a loud hiss, is worth seeing.
Tip: Chukamen for ¥700 is prepared with noodles, a soy-based broth and
fried onions, on which are beansprouts, boiled egg and a slice of pork.
Shibuya-ku, 2-17-6 Dogenzaka
Thu-Tue 11.30am-8.30pm
Phone: 03-3461-2032

70. Shibuya Niku Yokocho: A beer on meat street


Chitose-Kaikan stands at the very top of the big white building and on the
upper floor (2F) there are 17 different pubs where you can mainly get meat
dishes served to you, or grill them yourself. Some have English menus, but
even where they don't exist, you can usually order from the pictures without
problems.
Tip: The Brazilian pub Devil (No. 2) (about ¥3500 per person).
Shibuya-ku, Udagawacho 13-8
So-Do 5pm-2am, Fr-Sa 5pm-5am
www.shibuyayokocho.com
Phone: 03-6416-9929
EBISU 恵比寿
"Not Just Beer and Crafts"

71. L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele Ebisu: The best Pizza Margherita (Gourmet)
Perhaps the best Neapolitan recipe pizza in Tokyo, because the pizza chef
learned his mastery at the famous headquarters in Naples. As puristic as the
original, there are therefore only two pizzas on the menu: Margherita and
Marinara.
Tip: For one person I recommend the Margherita Normale (¥1674), two
people share the Margherita Doppia (¥2160) with more Mozzarella.
Shibuya-ku, 4-4-7 Ebisu
Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-11pm
www.damichele.jp
Phone: 03-5447-3800

72. Tofu Cuisine Sorano: An Izakaya for a celebration of tofu


This upscale Izakaya-style restaurant specialises in tofu dishes and thanks
to a good English menu the choice is not difficult. A highlight is the
preparation of your own fresh tofu directly at the table. All purely
vegetarian dishes are also marked on the menu. Fried and seasoned tofu
skin for crunching and tofu in various flavours are all particularly excellent.
Reservation recommended, approx. ¥3500 per person.
Tip: Try the Tofu Tiramisu with dessert.
Shibuya-ku, 4-7-2 Ebisu
Mo-Sa 5pm-11pm, Sun 5pm-10.30pm
Phone: 03-5798-7331

73. Hana Chibou: Okonomiyaki with a view (Izakaya)


In Chibou you can eat delicious okonomiyaki and teppanyaki. At a window
seat, you can enjoy the view from the 38th floor of the Ebisu Garden Place
Tower. There’s a bilingual menu with photos. The dishes are prepared in the
kitchen and kept warm on the hot plate at the table. Okonomiyaki is
available from ¥1458. Thanks to a good drink menu, Chibou is ideal for an
exuberant Izakaya experience.
Tip: For lunch, I suggest the Irodori menu for ¥1944. It consists of carpaccio
with salad, grilled shrimp with mashed potatoes, an okonomiyaki and a
dessert.
Shibuya-ku, 4-20-3 Ebisu
Mon-Fri 11am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm
www.chibo.com
Phone: 03-5424-1011

74. Denraku: Oden in Ebisu Yokocho (Izakaya)


Denraku is the second restaurant in Ebisu Yokocho on the right, a
collection of 21 small pubs. The speciality is Oden in Kyoto style, a broth
with many cooked pieces, which can be ordered individually as desired.
There is no English menu, but you can simply point to what you like in the
big vat at the counter. Best served with a glass of freshly tapped beer.
Tip: Radish (Daikon), egg (Tamago), fish sausage (Kamaboko) and burdock
root (Gobo), for ¥126 each per serving.
Shibuya-ku, 1-7-4 Ebisu
Mon-Sat 4pm-3am
www.ebisu-yokocho.com
Phone: 03-3473-8969

75. Premarché Gelateria: The best ice cream in Tokyo (Sweets)


40 different types of ice cream made from only the best organic ingredients,
half of which are excellent vegan Japanese varieties based on rice, beans
and sweet potatoes.
Tip: My two favourite vegan varieties are Okinawa Brown Sugar and
Kinako as well as The Ninja with black sesame (two varieties in a cup for
¥700).
Meguro-ku, 2-9-36 Kamimeguro
Fri-Sat 12pm-10.30pm, Sun-Wed 12pm-9pm
www.gelato.organic
Phone: 03-6303-0141
MEGURO 目黒
"Food Classics in the Home of Archery"

76. Tonkatsu Tonki: Traditional cutlet in Meguro (Meat)


A true institution since 1939 is Tonki with its three Tonkatsu dishes. You
can choose between Hire-Katsu (lean pork fillet), Rohsu-Katsu (fatty pork)
and Kushi-Katsu (skewer with pork and onions). Insiders just say Rohsu
when they enter the restaurant. The preparation takes about 20 minutes and
while sitting at the long counter, it is a real pleasure to watch the cooks
working as if on a big stage in their quiet and thoughtful activity. The
Japanese cutlet tastes a little different here because they are fried more
slowly. Free refills of grated white cabbage and rice are available if
required.
Tip: Rohsu-Katsu Teishoku for ¥1900.
Meguro-ku, 1-1-2 Shimomeguro
Mi-Mo 4pm-10.45pm, closed every 3rd Monday in the month
Phone: 03-3491-9928

77. Toshian: Soba restaurant in an old wooden house (Noodles)


Great soba and udon noodles, which you can enjoy hot or cold, are on the
menu in this fine old house. An English menu is available.
Tip: Norikake, that is cold buckwheat noodles with sheets of seaweed
strewn over them for ¥1050. Don't forget to ask for the free noodle water
Soba-yu at the end of the meal. You pour it into the remaining sauce and
drink it like a soup.
Minato-ku, 5-17-2 Shirokanedai
Wed-Sun 11.30am-7.30pm
Phone: 03-3444-1741

78. Tendon Tenya: Low-cost tempura teishoku (Fast and Good)


Excellent value for money, Tenya offers teishoku dishes, primarily tempura,
soba and udon. Since only vegetable oil is used, the fried food is more
digestible. Thanks to a good English menu and ticket machines at some
branches everyone can order easily.
Tip: The All-star Tendon comes with six different varieties of tempura
(shrimp, squid, maitake mushroom, scallop, lotus root and green beans) for
¥750 on a bowl of rice with miso soup.
Shinagawa-ku, 2-16-4 Kamiosaki
Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm
www.tenya.co.jp
Phone: 03-3280-1708

79. Mos Burger: Japanese-style burger chain (Fast and Good)


This typical Japanese burger chain does not have an English menu, but the
pictures allow you to order without problems. The burgers are always
freshly made.
Tip: The Lettuce burger for ¥389 is very refreshing, especially in the
summer. Instead of the two soft halves of bread, you get a few slices of
crunchy lettuce.
Shinagawa-ku, 2-17-3 Kamiosaki
Open daily 7am-11pm
www.mos.jp
Phone: 03-3491-3100

80. Livrer: High-quality edible green tea (Tea)


At this branch of Tokinomori, a shop originally from Nara, you are served
excellent green tea from the Inokura tea farm. You can blanch the high-
quality tea leaves yourself several times and finally dip them into ponzu (a
citrus dressing) with chopsticks and eat them similar to salad.
Tip: Premium Kabuse Sencha Tamayura for ¥1296, served with a small
sweet Tsujimura Higashi from Nara.
Minato-ku, 5-17-10 Shirokanedai
Tue-Sun 11am-6pm
www.tokinomori-nara.jp/livrer
Phone: 03-6277-2606
ASAKUSA 浅草
"Traditional food in old Tokyo"

81. Dojo Iidaya: Cook small fish at the table (Teishoku)


The history of this restaurant dates back to 1903 and it retains the typical
old-Tokyo (Shitamachi) ambience. Iidaya serves a specialty popular since
the Edo period. Dojo is a small fresh water fish that is cooked in a sweet
soy broth with spring onions. The fish can be eaten completely, but I
recommend the variants without head and bones for beginners.
Tip: Try the Hone-nuki Nabe for ¥2600, which you can cook yourself at the
table. Yanagawa Nabe is a variant with egg and is served ready to eat from
the kitchen.
Taito-ku, 3-3-2 Nishiasakusa
Thu-Tue 11.30am-9pm
www.asakusa-ryoin.jp/iidaya
Phone: 03-3843-0881

82. Edosada: Traditional teishoku


This traditional restaurant has existed in a side street parallel to
Kaminarimon Dori since 1868. Beside tempura and sashimi, there is grilled
eel, Kamameshi and Yose Nabe on the menu.
Tip: The Tokyo Olympic Kamameshi Set for ¥2138. Savoury egg custard,
sashimi and cooked vegetables are served in advance, later Kamameshi with
side dishes (photo). Preparation takes about 20 minutes and the best thing is
the rice crust on the edge.
Taito-ku, 1-8-6 Asakusa
Fri-Mi 11.30am-8.30pm
www.edosada.com
Phone: 03-3844-0505

83. Sushi Zanmai: The most famous sushi chain in Tokyo


A very well-known and popular sushi chain with many branches in different
parts of the city. The head office, along with some branches, can be found
in Tsukiji, but of course Mr. Kiyomura also has a restaurant on the street
near Kaminari-mon.
Tip: A bowl of Seafood Chirashi-don (in Japanese: Kaisen Chirashi Don)
costs ¥1620 and is served with a large bowl of miso soup.
Taito-ku, 1-3-6 Asakusa
Open 24 hours a day
www.kiyomura.co.jp
Phone: 03-5826-1375

84. Monja: Be your own chef at the hot plate (Izakaya)


The red two-storey house is immediately noticeable because it stands
between taller buildings. Here you prepare Monja, Okonomiyaki and
Yakisoba yourself on hot table tops. White cabbage is always an ingredient,
but Monja has a liquid dough and you eat with small metal spatulas instead
of sticks.
Tip: Umi Umi Okonomiyaki with scallop, squid, shrimp and octopus for
¥1000.
Taito-ku, 1-34-4 Asakusa
Mon-Fri 11am-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-9pm
www.monja.co.jp
Phone: 03-3847-6733

85. Konohana: Small bakery filled with love (Café)


Two women run this small bakery and café, with only six seats, with great
attention to detail. The baked goods are all of very good quality and taste
delicious. Every day the products are freshly baked and if you are late, the
appetizing baked goods are already sold out.
Tip: Eat a crispy Matcha Scone with nuts and a coffee (cold or hot) for ¥720
in the café. If there is no space available, just have your scones packed and
enjoy in the park or by the river.
Taito-ku, 3-25-6 Asakusa
Mi-Sa 12pm-4pm
www.asakusakonohana.com
Phone: 03-3874-7302
ROPPONGI 六本木
"Day and night – exclusive luxury and hedonistic fun"

86. Roku Roku Sushi: Sushi in the Grand Hyatt


On the 6th floor of the Grand Hyatt Tokyo is this modern sushi restaurant,
furnished with a lot of glass, wood and stone. The service provided by the
attentive staff in traditional kimonos is very pleasant, as they also speak
English. Reservations both at noon and in the evening are highly
recommended.
Tip: At noon Nigiri Sushi Menu Icho for ¥4968 (incl. service charge and
taxes).
Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 6pm-9.30pm
Minato-ku, 6-10-3 Roppongi
restaurants.tokyo.grand.hyatt.com
Phone: 03-4333-8788

87. Suzunami Midtown: Nagoya style butterfish (Teishoku)


In the Midtown Galleria there is a restaurant from Nagoya in the basement.
Their speciality is grilled black cod (butterfish), which is preserved using
sake kasu, and thus gets a sweet, delicious taste. By the way, sake kasu is a
by-product of the sake filtering process.
Tip: Suzunami Teishoku for ¥1620, with grilled black cod, sashimi, miso
soup, rice and other side dishes.
Mon-Fri 11am-3pm and 16.30am-8.30pm, Sat-Sun 11am-8.30pm
www.suzunami.co.jp
Phone: 03-5413-0335

88. Sushi Aoki Nishiazabu: Sushi from a star chef


The restaurant of the former Michelin star decorated sushi master Aoki is
located in a residential area. At the intersection of Roppongi and Gaien-
Nishi Dori, walk up the hill to the ENEOS petrol station and then turn left
into the street at the red vending machine. Palais Royal Nishiazabu is
written on the building. For Omakase Nigiri you must expect to pay at least
¥16,200 and a reservation is required. Since August 2018 Junichi Kameida
runs the restaurant in Nishiazabu. If you want to see the master Toshikatsu
Aoki, you should visit the main shop in Ginza (see map in the Ginza chapter). If
you would like to be served by him, come as early as possible and state this
wish when making your reservation.
Tip: Omakase Nigiri from ¥16,200.
Minato-ku, 3-23-7 Nishiazabu
Tue-Fri 6pm-9.30pm
www.sushiaoki.jp
Phone: 03-5771-3344

89. Tempura Mikaku: Healthier fried food (teishoku)


At the weekend, the owner grows his own vegetables outside Tokyo and
uses them alongside various fish for his excellent tempura. Fried with
sesame oil, it keeps him fit, too, and so he doesn't want to think about his
pension yet.
Tip: In the evening, the Yuki Course offers a good cross-section for ¥5000,
with 14 different Tempura varieties and you can also eat without rice. At
noon the Tempura Set Meal for ¥1800 is recommended.
Minato-ku, 6-7-17 Roppongi
Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm and 6pm-10pm
www.tenpura-mikaku.com
Phone: 03-3404-1800

90. Tsubakiya: Siphon brewed coffee (Café)


This café is located directly by the zebra crossing on the 2F above the
Pompadour bakery. The coffee here may be a little more expensive, but it is
among the best in Tokyo since it is brewed using the siphon method.
Tip: House Blended Coffee or in summer Iced Coffee for ¥930.
Minato-ku, 6-2-35 Roppongi
Tues-Sat 9am-4am, Sun-Mon 9am-11pm
www.towafood-net.co.jp
Phone: 03-5785-3323
TSUKIJI 築地
"Not only Fish at the Fish market"

91. Tsukiji Tamura: Master of Kaiseki


Kaiseki cuisine at the highest level can be found in a restaurant only 50m
from exit 2 of Tsukiji railway station. You should book in advance for both
lunch and dinner. In the evening you can expect to pay about ¥15,000, but
there are also more expensive menus.
Tip: Order the multi-course lunch menu for ¥3780 at lunchtime, as it gives a
good impression of the exquisite, high-end Kaiseki cuisine at a reasonable
price.
Chuo-ku, 2-12-11 Tsukiji
Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 5.30pm-10pm
www.tsukiji-tamura.com
Phone: 03-3541-2591

92. Unitora Nakadori: Sea urchin for gourmets (Sushi)


The restaurant, belonging to the Itadori chain, offers sea urchin, uni. You
will find it on the right hand side at the end of a narrow passage right in the
middle of the market. Lovers of this exclusive seafood product will be
delighted here. The bowl Miyabi for ¥6458 contains five varieties from
around Japan for taste comparison.
Tip: Order Nigiri Kaede and get the same varieties like included in the
Miyabi bowl for the same price.
Chuo-ku, 4-10-5 Tsukiji
Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 7am-4pm
www.gomap.de/unit
Phone: 03-6327-5874

93. Nakau: Teishoku chain with a large selection (Fast and Good)
The Teishoku restaurants of this chain are mostly located in some remote
side streets, but they are convenient because you can eat around the clock
quite cheaply. First you choose your meal at the bilingual, modern vending
machines and then give the purchased ticket to the staff. You can choose
from a large selection of fish dishes, udon, soba, gyudon, pork cutlet and
curry dishes.
The Deep Fried Breaded Pork Cutlet with Scrambled Eggs for only
Tip:
¥730 fills your stomach and tastes good.
Chuo-ku, 2-14-1 Tsukiji
Open 24 hours a day
www.nakau.co.jp

94. Segawa: Pickled tuna on rice (Sushi)


In this small shop you can get Magurodon, which is the best and freshest
tuna marinated in sauce on rice all over Tsukiji. It is a real pleasure to watch
the two ladies preparing the food while waiting on the red stools.
Tip: Magurodon for ¥900 or large portion for ¥1100. Chutorodon is higher
quality tuna for ¥1600 and is not always on the menu. Come as early as
possible, because sometimes the restaurant is already sold out at 10am and
closes earlier.
Chuo-ku, 4-9-12 Tsukiji
Mon-Tue and Thu-Sat 7.30am-12.30pm
www.gomap.de/sgwa
Phone: 03-3542-8878

95. Turret Coffee: Strong coffee to wake you up (Café)


If you have come to the fish market early in the morning, there is certainly a
need for a good, strong coffee as a stimulant. In the small shop of Kiyoshi
Kawasaki you can sit on the loading area of a turret, (a type of small
delivery truck used in the fish market). On the blackboard there are also
interesting creations like Sea Salt Caramel Latte.
Tip: The Turret Latte for ¥560 or a strong Espresso for ¥360.
Chuo-ku, 2-12-6 Tsukiji
Mon-Sat 7am-6pm, Sun 12pm-6pm
www.facebook.com/TurretCOFFEE
Phone: 080-3344-8819
MITSUKOSHIMAE 三越前
"Classical Cuisine combined with modern elegance"

96. Sense: Cantonese cuisine in the Mandarin Oriental (Gourmet)


The 37th floor of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel is home to this Michelin-
starred restaurant for Cantonese cuisine. With a magnificent view of the
Tokyo Skytree, this is an excellent place to dine. Evening menus cost
between ¥15,000 and ¥30,000.
Tip: At lunchtime, the Silky Oak menu with eight courses for ¥5744 offers a
good cross-section of the skills of the chefs. In particular, the dim sum are
quite excellent.
Chuo-ku, 2-1-1 Nihombashi Muromachi
Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-10pm
www.mandarinoriental.de/tokyo
Phone: 03-3270-8188

97. Mikado Coffee: Coffee in the old Japanese style (Café)


This old-fashioned coffee house with a very special atmosphere has existed
since 1948 and offers coffee from a dozen different coffee beans and great
mocha soft-serve ice cream.
Tip: A cup of Nihonbashi Blend costs ¥430 if you are served on the upper
floors and ¥220 of you are served on the lower self-service counter. You
can then use one of the bar tables on the ground floor.
Chuo-ku, 1-6-7 Nihombashi Muromachi
Mon-Fri 7am-7pm, Sat 8am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm
www.mikado-coffee.com
Phone: 03-3241-0530

98. Dashi Bar Hanare: A tasty meal with dashi (Izakaya)


On the ground floor of COREDO Muromachi 2, just to the right of the
entrance, you will find this restaurant run by Ninben, famous for dashi,
which is stock made from Katsuobushi, i.e. dried and grated flakes of tuna.
Tip: Better reserve in the evening and don't be late before the appetizing
Dashi Takikomi Gohan set for ¥2400 is sold out. The Japanese style pilaf is
accompanied by a dashi soup, three different small salads and a dessert.
With the dashi soup you can pour it over the rice, instead of just drinking it,
if you like.
Chuo-ku, 2-3-1 Nihombashi Muromachi
Open daily 11am-10pm
www.ninben.co.jp/hanare
Phone: 03-5205-8704

99. Tsuruya Yoshinobu: Delicate Japanese sweets


Directly from the street you enter the COREDO Muromachi 3 building and
to the counter in the shop, where the wagashi masters conjure up the
wonderful works of art in front of the customers. They are so beautiful that
you hardly dare eat them. As a souvenir I always buy delicious Yuzu Mochi
here.
Tip: Choose a wagashi based on the samples shown, with a hot or cold
Matcha tea matching it; this set costs ¥1296.
Chuo-ku, 1-5-5 Nihombashi Muromachi
Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm
www.turuya.co.jp
Phone: 03-3243-0551

100. Sembikiya Fruit Parlor: Exclusive fruit (Sweets)


On the upper floor (2F) of the Nihombashi Mitsui Tower, above the
Sembikiya shop, where the exclusive fruits are offered for sale, is the Fruit
Parlour. The standard here is the Sembikiya Special Parfait for ¥1944.
Tip: Try a ¥1516 fruit sandwich with strawberry, pineapple, kiwi and mango
pieces served in the classic sandwich shape.
Chuo-ku, 2-1-2 Nihombashi Muromachi
Open daily 11am-8.30pm
www.sembikiya.co.jp/en
Phone: 03-3241-1630
Last but certainly not least
101. Kayaba Coffee: My favourite café
Now I nearly forgot to tell you about No. 101 as indicated on the cover.
This is my favourite café. It is in Yanaka and in fact it has been always just
in front of you – Kayaba Coffee is shown on the cover of this book! To find
it on the map you need to jump back to the map in the Nezu chapter. Sorry about
that, but let me therefore write some more details about Kayaba Coffee
here:

Directly at the corner to the Shitamachi Museum Annex is the café in an old
wooden house, which has been in operation since 1938. If all seats on the
ground floor are occupied, you can sit in an even nicer location on the upper
floor, which is Tatami only, so no shoes please. From 8am to 11am you can
enjoy breakfast for just ¥800 (toast or a sandwich with coffee or tea). In
summer there is Japanese shaved ice Kakigori with Matcha and sweet
beans. My favourite however is their Anmitsu, which is vanilla ice cream
with red bean paste, fruits and jelly cubes for ¥700. It comes together with a
cup of green tea and syrup sauce, which you pour over this fine Japanese
dessert. And there is another favourite for all lovers of cake: Green-tea
Gateau Chocolat best accompanied by a Café Latte, each will add ¥500 to
your bill.
Taitō-ku, 6-1-29 Yanaka
Open daily 8am-6pm, Fri-Sat 8am-9pm
www.kayaba-coffee.com
Phone: 03-3823-3545
My personal ranking
Sushi
1. No. 88 ¥¥¥
2. No. 53 ¥¥¥
3. No. 86 ¥¥¥
4. No. 19 ¥¥
5. No. 83 ¥¥
6. No. 92 ¥¥¥
7. No. 66 ¥¥
8. No. 01 ¥¥
9. No. 94 ¥
10. No. 60 ¥¥
Teishoku
1. No. 81 ¥¥
2. No. 89 ¥¥¥
3. No. 87 ¥¥
4. No. 46 ¥
5. No. 41 ¥¥
6. No. 32 ¥¥
7. No. 27 ¥
8. No. 82 ¥¥
9. No. 51 ¥¥
10. No. 29 ¥¥
Kaiseki
1. No. 91 ¥¥¥
2. No. 11 ¥¥¥
3. No. 62 ¥¥¥
4. No. 33 ¥¥¥
5. No. 13 ¥¥¥
Gourmet
1. No. 96 ¥¥¥
2. No. 59 ¥¥¥
3. No. 12 ¥¥¥
4. No. 21 ¥¥¥
5. No. 71 ¥¥
Noodles
1. No. 36 ¥¥
2. No. 08 ¥
3. No. 14 ¥
4. No. 48 ¥
5. No. 69 ¥
6. No. 34 ¥
7. No. 77 ¥¥
8. No. 58 ¥¥
9. No. 03 ¥
10. No. 43 ¥¥
Izakaya
1. No. 37 ¥¥
2. No. 72 ¥¥
3. No. 84 ¥¥
4. No. 57 ¥¥¥
5. No. 02 ¥¥¥
6. No. 07 ¥¥
7. No. 20 ¥¥
8. No. 89 ¥¥¥
9. No. 67 ¥¥¥
10. No. 73 ¥¥
11. No. 98 ¥¥
12. No. 74 ¥¥
Organic
1. No. 61 ¥¥
2. No. 16 ¥¥
3. No. 17 ¥¥
4. No. 23 ¥¥
5. No. 31 ¥¥
6. No. 22 ¥¥
7. No. 24 ¥
8. No. 52 ¥¥
9. No. 49 ¥¥
10. No. 38 ¥¥
Meat - Beef
1. No. 06 ¥¥¥
2. No. 18 ¥¥¥
3. No. 68 ¥¥¥
4. No. 42 ¥¥
5. No. 35 ¥¥

Meat - Pork
1. No. 63 ¥¥¥
2. No. 76 ¥¥
3. No. 70 ¥¥
Snacks
1. No. 04 ¥
2. No. 78 ¥
3. No. 93 ¥
4. No. 26 ¥
5. No. 47 ¥
6. No. 09 ¥
7. No. 79 ¥

Breakfasts
1. No. 10 ¥
2. No. 30 ¥
3. No. 45 ¥
4. No. 05 ¥
Sweets
1. No. 56 ¥¥
2. No. 100 ¥¥
3. No. 75 ¥
4. No. 99 ¥¥
5. No. 64 ¥¥
6. No. 50 ¥
7. No. 44 ¥
8. No. 65 ¥
9. No. 39 ¥
10. No. 28 ¥¥

Cafes
1. No. 90 ¥¥
2. No. 55 ¥¥
3. No. 85 ¥¥
4. No. 95 ¥¥
5. No. 15 ¥¥
6. No. 97 ¥¥
7. No. 45 ¥
8. No. 30 ¥
9. No. 10 ¥
10. No. 05 ¥

Tea
1. No. 64 ¥¥
2. No. 25 ¥¥
3. No. 80 ¥¥
4. No. 54 ¥¥¥
5. No. 40 ¥¥
Find restaurant and café chains in district maps
No. 01: Tsukiji Tamasushi
More in the chapters:
4, 10, 17 and 19

No. 03: Sojibou


More in the chapters:
3 and 5

No. 04: Doutor Coffee


In all chapters except:
5, 11, 18, 20

No. 07: Hokkaido


More in the chapters:
1, 3, 5, 6, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16

No. 09: Coco Ichibanya


More in the chapters:
3, 10, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18

No. 10: Ueshima Coffee


More in the chapters:
5, 7, 11, 13, 18

No. 26: Matsuya


In all chapters except:
1, 3, 4, 13, 19

No. 29: Royal Host


More in the chapters:
1, 14, 17

No. 30: Vie de France


More in the chapters:
3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 20

Number 34: Ichiran


More in the chapters:
3, 12, 13, 14, 18

Number 35: Tokori


More in the chapters:
5, 12, 17

No. 42: Rikyu Gyutan


More in the chapters:
5, 11, 12

No. 45: Mister Donut


More in the chapters:
6, 7, 8, 10, 12

No. 46: Ootoya


More in the chapters:
1, 3, 4, 5, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 18

No. 47: Marugame Seimen


More in the chapters:
1, 3, 11, 12, 14

No. 66: Katsu Midori


More in the chapters:
10, 16

No. 78: Tendon Tenya


In all chapters except:
1, 2, 8, 14, 18, 20

No. 79: Mos Burger


More in the chapters:
2, 8, 9, 14, 17, 18
No. 83: Sushi Zanmai
More in the chapters:
3, 4, 7, 10, 11, 14, 18, 19

No. 90: Tsubakiya


More in the chapters:
3, 4, 7, 12, 14

No. 93: Nakau


More in the chapters:
5, 8, 10, 14, 18, 20
Gourmet tours
Sushi marathon
Mon: Lunch No. 94 /Evenings No. 92 ¥¥¥¥
Tue: Lunch No. 60 /Evenings No. 01
Wed: Lunch No. 83 / Evening No. 66
Thu: Lunch No. 86 / Evening No. 88 ¥¥¥¥
Fri: Lunch No. 19 / Evening No. 53 ¥¥¥¥

Eco-trip
Mon: Lunch No. 38 / Evening No. 49
Tue: Lunch No. 52 / Evening No. 24
Wed: Lunch No. 22 / Evening No. 23
Thu: Lunch No. 16 / Evening No. 17
Fri: Lunch No. 61 / Evening No. 31
Low budget week
Mon: Lunch No. 09 / Evening No. 46
Tue: Lunch No. 94 / Evening No. 79
Wed: Lunch No. 47 / Evening No. 26
Thu: Lunch No. 93 / Evening No. 78
Fri: Lunch No. 04 / Evening No. 14

Gourmet luxury trip


Mon: Lunch No. 71 / Evening No. 62 ¥¥¥¥
Tue: Lunch No. 21 / Evening No. 53 ¥¥¥¥
Wed: Lunch No. 11 / Evening No. 12 ¥¥¥¥
Thu: Lunch No. 91 / Evening No. 59 ¥¥¥¥
Fri: Lunch No. 96 / Evening No. 88 ¥¥¥¥

Traditional Japan
Mon: Lunch No. 13 / Evening No. 89 ¥¥¥¥
Tue: Lunch No. 31 / Evening No. 33
Wed: Lunch No. 11 ¥¥¥¥ / Evening No. 77
Thu: Lunch No. 81 / Evening No. 76
Fri: Lunch No. 91 / Evening No. 37 ¥¥¥¥

Meat lovers
Mon: Lunch No. 04 / Evening No. 27
Tue: Lunch No. 35 / Evening No. 70
Wed: Lunch No. 42 / Evening No. 76
Thu: Lunch No. 06 / Evening No. 68 ¥¥¥¥
Fri: Lunch No. 63 / Evening No. 18 ¥¥¥¥

Noodle mania
Mon: Lunch No. 43 / Evening No. 69
Tue: Lunch No. 58 / Evening No. 14
Wed: Lunch No. 48 / Evening No. 03
Thu: Lunch No. 77 / Evening No. 34
Fri: Lunch No. 08 / Evening No. 36 ¥¥¥¥

Pub evenings
Mon: Evening No. 73 or No. 74
Tue: Evening No. 98 or No. 67 ¥¥¥
Wed: Evening No. 07 or No. 57 ¥¥¥¥
Thu: Evening No. 84 or No. 02 ¥¥¥¥
Fri: Evening No. 72 or No. 37

The tours are designed so that the weekdays fit well with the opening hours
of the sights in the same district maps in my book "Tokyo Maze"
(chapters 1-16, 20, 25, 28 and 30). The quality and prices of the
restaurants rise towards the end, so that usually the meal on Friday evening
is the absolute highlight of each tour. If you want to shorten a tour or if you
have a limited budget, you should take this into account when modifying a
tour. Of course you can also do the tours on weekends, but please check the
opening hours of each restaurant before you start.
The Author
Axel Schwab is regarded by many as something of an expert on Japanese
cuisine and culture. He lived for over five years in Tokyo, channelling his
experiences into writing his guide “Tokyo Maze” – a favourite with many
visitors to the city. The 8th edition of the German version and 2nd edition of
the English version appeared in 2019. The walking guide has since been
supplemented by other books: “30 Arts of Edo-Tokyo”, “Japan in 60 easy
steps” and the restaurant guide “Tokyo Food – 101 Places to Eat”. When
back in Germany, he is always on the lookout for good, authentic Japanese
food and Japan-related specialist shops. It’s no surprise to learn, therefore,
that he has also written the travel and restaurant guides “Japan in Berlin”,
“Japan in Hamburg”, “Japan in Düsseldorf” and “Japan in München”. In his
“Sushi Guide” he shares his profound knowledge of the ins and outs of
sushi and endeavours to make nigiri sushi just as popular as the sushi rolls
which are already firm favourites in his home country. Alongside the books,
the author provides his readers with up-to-date information in his blogs
www.japanin.berlin and www.japan-in-muenchen.de. He also visits Japan for several
weeks every year to ensure new editions of his travel guides are up to date
and to re-calibrate his taste buds as a restaurant tester!
Imprint
© 2015-2019 Axel Schwab, Munich
All rights reserved.

Cover design, photos, maps, layout and texts: Axel Schwab


Translator: Alana Campbell

3rd edition, 2019

Independently published
Contact: tokyo@axelschwab.com

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