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In 1979 Anthony Blunt was revealed

to be a Soviet double agent. Shocking


new evidence suggests he was also
handing secrets to the Nazis
Everton’s squad scrubs

THIS WEEK IN up well outside the Hotel


Victoria in London on April
29, 1933. The team were

1933
staying in the capital ahead
of their FA Cup final against
Manchester City at Wembley
Stadium, which they won
3-0. The club has won the
trophy five times in its history
— but not since 1995.

treacherous double agent in 32 Gone fishing 46 Health and fitness

28.04.2024
5 Matt Rudd
history? By Robert Verkaik

20 BBC BFFs
Rosamund Urwin meets Justin
The life in pictures of a 1980s
fishing village in the northeast
of England. By Chris Killip
The happiness diet. Plus,
seven realistic fitness goals

50 Driving
My week as a house husband Webb and Jeremy Bowen — 39 Table Talk How to max the miles in
BERTRAM WILSON / TIMES NEWSPAPERS LTD

who started at the Beeb on Mark Diacono‘s dukkah dishes, your EV. By Nick Rufford
6 Relative Values the same day 40 years ago Charlotte Ivers dines with the
The James frontman Tim Booth one per cent in Copenhagen, 58 A Life in the Day
and his wife, Kate Shela, 26 Sophie Grégoire Trudeau Will Lyons recommends rosés, The politician Sayeeda Warsi
a shamanic healer Canada’s former first lady on plus the best salad dressing
her split from Justin, being © Times Media Ltd, 2024. Published and
8 COVER Deadly secrets pals with Michelle Obama and 44 Farmer Clarkson licensed by Times Media Ltd, 1 London
Bridge Street, London SE1 9GF (020 7782
Was the Cambridge spy her reinvention as a wellness Planting, ploughing and 5000). Printed at Walstead Bicester Limited,
Anthony Blunt the most guru. By Louise Callaghan a plague of slugs Oxfordshire. Not to be sold separately

The Sunday Times Magazine • 3


MAT T R UDD

My week as a house husband?


I had to just suck it up

S
till think you’d be happier as a house to decide between a cripplingly expensive villa,
husband?” That was the question and Harriet a cripplingly expensive cottage and a cripplingly
had obviously been waiting for years to ask it. miserable tent, we inadvertently settled on a fourth
It was late on Friday afternoon and I’d been option. A holiday at home. And because Harriet
house husbanding all day. I’d done the has friends and hobbies, she immediately filled her
cooking and the cleaning and the tidying and non-holiday holiday with a level of social activity
the washing, all without complaint, hardly that would frighten a Kardashian. No problem,
ever muttering to myself, “Is a man’s work I said heroically. I’ll stay at home and run things.
never done?” Almost every day I’d had dinner I don’t want to brag but I got off to an excellent
ready for when she got in and, almost always, start. On Monday I painted the shed. On Tuesday
that dinner wasn’t just five microwaved tikka I cleaned the mould off the back of the bathroom
masalas and a naan. Move over, Nigella. There’s a new blinds. On Wednesday I hoovered the cutlery
domestic goddess in town. drawer. On Thursday I superglued Child C’s
Until that Friday afternoon. I was just unpulling my school shoes back together.
apron strings and looking forward to taking the weight On Friday I looked back over my domestic
off my feet for the first time all day. House done. Dinner endeavours with pride. Sure, the kids had spent most
on. Finished. Then I discovered a perfect set of muddy of the past 120 hours on screens eating crisps, but
footprints across a carpet I’d only just hoovered. I can’t be expected to do full-on parenting and
Then Child A asked if I’d washed the rugby kit he’ll full-on house husbanding, can I? There just aren’t
need in the morning. Then I found a half-finished enough hours in the day. But I’d done all the usual
bowl of yesterday’s cornflakes behind a potted housework and quite a lot of the housework
plant. That’s when I said, “For goodness sake,” and neither of us has time to do when we’re working.
Harriet, walking through the front door, smiled The house looked like an estate agent description.
knowingly and asked her question. So I said “Yes, actually” when Harriet asked.
A confession first. Once, a very long time ago, “I would be very happy as a house husband.”
I expressed a vague desire to be a stay-at-home And then, with a big smile, I got the vacuum
dad. I might even have said that I’d gladly swap cleaner out of the cupboard I’d just put it back into.
my fortnight of paternity leave for Harriet’s Don’t tell her, but I was lying. A week later we’re
nine months of maternity leave. Because, I’d both back at work and juggling. Shockingly, the house
reasoned after a difficult week at work, being is a tip again. There are crumbs in the cutlery drawer
the primary parent isn’t necessarily as stressful and Child C’s shoes have come unstuck again. The
as being the primary earner. clothes I washed last week need washing this week.
Obviously that was very stupid and wrong. I’d Unbelievable. At least Sisyphus got a view when he
escaped the depths of exhaustion Harriet endured reached the top of the hill.
in those early years because I could sleep in the office The simple and easy solution for families starting
and have a G&T on the commute. I never had to get out: one week on, one week off. House husband one
my cracked nipples out on a bus. Not once. How week, housewife the next. I’ll admit there are some
dare I even suggest that her grass was greener? stumbling blocks. Because it now takes two salaries
It’s something baby group dads might whisper to to pay a mortgage, you’d need both your employers
each other in pubs but never ever actually mean. to agree to 26 alternating weeks of annual leave on
Now, though? When the kids are toilet- full pay. Assuming they are absolutely fine with that,
trained and almost self-sufficient? That’s a though, think of the benefits. No one’s grass is greener
different question. Last week we were “on because it’s all the same grass. A change is as good as
holiday” and we didn’t go anywhere. Unable a rest. And no, it’s your week to do the washing-up n
CHARLIE CLIFT, ALAMY, GETTY IMAGES

On the topic of equality, the that a man makes. It’s still earnings, this figure was
GOOD UK’s gender pay gap has fallen
to 11.6 per cent, its lowest level
12p too little — though seven
years ago, when it became
12.8 per cent, so it’s progress.
PwC (96p v £1) and Greggs

NEWS! on record. On average, women


now earn 88p for every pound
mandatory for employers
to report the disparity in
(97p v £1) are close to closing
the gap for good.

The Sunday Times Magazine • 5


R E L ATI V E VA LU E S

Tim Booth and Kate Shela


The James singer and his wife, a shamanic healer, on cheating death and love at first sight

Tim it felt wonderful. When the nurse forced me to start


In 1994 I had a call from my friend Gabrielle Roth, a breathing again, I was quite pissed off.
dance teacher in LA. She simply said, “Tim, I see you But that experience affected me. I challenged myself
in this room. You’re meant to be here.” I was living in to find a purpose in life or I was going to check out early.
the UK but I trusted Gabrielle and, some weeks later, I started meditating, gave up alcohol, drugs, sex; I lived
I flew out to the Esalen Institute in Big Sur. like a monk. Lots happened around that time — James
I walked in and there was Kate. She was sitting on became very successful, I became a father, I went wild.
her own, so I decided to say hello. She’d been living in And then I met Kate. I guess that was the final part of
America for a few years and had never heard of James, the story. The purpose in life became a clear picture.
never heard of Madchester or Britpop. No idea that Our story doesn’t surprise me. Kate is a healer and a
we’d been around since 1982 or that Sit Down had been shaman. She’s developed her own theory of body and
a big hit all over Europe. We started talking and, within mind work, the 360 Experience. People come from
a minute, Kate was in floods of tears. We’d barely said around the globe to learn. In Kate’s world, she’s the big
50 words, but somehow we’d worked out we were cheese. And I’m not Tim Booth, I’m Kate’s husband.
meant to be with each other. Some people will assume that we are “spiritual”, but
Although neither of us said anything about the future I hate that word. It sounds wanky and elitist. We dance
and we were both in other relationships, we kept in and we mediate to stay sane in an insane world. There
touch. A year later I moved to LA to be with the girl are days when I think, “F*** this!” But with Kate at my
I was with at the time. She was a clairvoyant and as we side, I’m able to break through those patterns. When it
met at the airport, she said, “We shouldn’t be together.” seems like humanity is going to hell in a handcart, she
I told her she was being ridiculous. We went to a dance helps me stay connected to the healing world.
class that night and there was Kate. I had no idea she
was in LA. The next morning, my girlfriend dropped Kate
me off at another dance class and the only person in I can’t even remember Tim’s first words to me, but
the car park was Kate. My girlfriend walked over to her there was something about them and the resonance of
and said, “This is Tim. Look after him.” Kate and I went
for breakfast and I told her I was in love with her.
Kate and I could both feel the synchronicity. But she
was also scared; she held me at arm’s length for a long
Dad had made a living will that
time. I was madly in love and the idea of losing her was stipulated that Tim had to sing
devastating. There was this one day when we went for
a drive and I could sense her distance. The Beatles’ Sit Down to him on his death bed
Across the Universe came on the radio and something
in the words made me think, “You have to let go. Let go
of your intensity.” So I did. The song finished and Kate
pulled over to the side of the road. She said, “What am
I doing? I am meant to be with you!”
Kate knew that I had a son, Ben, from a previous
relationship. Ben met Kate and they were instantly in
love. Kate came to live with us in Brighton and became
an amazing stepmum. Ben’s now 35 and we have our
own son, Luka, who’s 19. Kate’s the one who taught
me how to be a dad. She helped me relax with the boys:
just love them, that’s the secret.
These days my heart is always open, whether I meet
someone on the street or I’m singing to 10,000 people Main: Tim, 64,
at Wembley Arena. I feel at peace. As a teenager, there and Kate, 53, sit
wasn’t much peace. I hated boarding at Shrewsbury down in a rehearsal
School, I didn’t have a great relationship with my father studio in south
and undiagnosed liver disease convinced me I was London. Inset: on
going mad. Aged 21 I was taken to hospital and I died their wedding day in
— I stopped breathing. I felt myself slipping down and September 2005

6 • The Sunday Times Magazine


PORTRAIT BY MICHAEL CLEMENT

his voice. We were both in relationships, but that initial When my parents first met him, they weren’t keen.
spark was the beginning of a 28-year love story. The
STRANGE He was a rock star — rock stars take drugs! — he was
gods had a plan for us. HABITS older than me. But within weeks my dad became the
Some months later I was in Malibu and I struck world’s biggest James fan. He knew the words to every
up a friendship with an English make-up artist. We Tim on Kate song, was always in the mosh pit at the gigs. He and
were having a beer one night and she said, “You really Her indigenous Tim loved each other dearly.
remind me of someone I know. It’s a man, I hope name in our Sadly, Dad died during the Covid pandemic. Tim and
you’re not offended. His name’s Tim Booth.” I just family is She I were stuck in LA, Mum was in London and Dad was
screamed. The next day I was in the shopping mall Who Turns the in hospital in Watford. That was awful. But an amazing
and James’s music came on the radio. It was ridiculous. Lights Out. She’ll nurse FaceTimed us and Mum while Dad was on the
I’m from a middle-class north London Jewish family; come into a ventilator, so we were all able to say goodbye. Dad had
Mum and Dad dreamt of me marrying an accountant room and dim made a living will and stipulated that Tim had to sing
or a doctor. Although my work had taken me away from the lights to his favourite James song, Sit Down: “I’ll sing myself to
that orthodox path, the idea of marriage scared the hell near darkness sleep/ A song from the darkest hour”. It was a beautiful
out of me. But I was fighting a losing battle. I’m turned no matter what moment, but it was hard. Dad died 15 minutes later.
on by a man’s brain and Tim is a secret boffin. Whether is happening Losing him changed something for us. We started to
it’s poetry, maths, quantum mechanics or Leeds United, really think about the idea of “home”. We’ve always
he is passionate. He was my sacred appointment. Kate on Tim lived a nomadic existence, but the realisation that
Right from the start we both understood that being He drinks home is within gave us a new sense of purpose. There
together would also mean being apart. Tim was in a kukicha tea and may be a time when we’ll want to settle down. When?
band, always touring, and I had my work, which took eats two boiled I don’t know. For now, we’ll just follow life’s compass n
me all over the world. We’re just about to enter a eggs every Interviews by Danny Scott.
summer where we won’t really see each other for over single day The new James album, Yummy, is out now. They tour
six months. But there’s also an intrinsic resilience built the UK from May 29. For more about Kate Shela’s
into our relationship that allows us to say goodbye. work, visit the360emergence.com

The Sunday Times Magazine • 7


The traitor of Arnhem

A 1963 portrait of the Soviet spy


Anthony Blunt, when he was
surveyor of the Queen’s
pictures, by Lord Snowdon
After a disastrous Allied operation in the Netherlands, British
intelligence became convinced that a highly placed double
agent had passed secrets to the Nazis. Robert Verkaik, who
spent years on the archive trail, unmasks the prime suspect

Allied paratroopers over the


Netherlands during Operation Market
Garden, September 1944. Their
mission was betrayed to the Germans
T
his is not the story I intended
to tell. I set out to write a book
about a distant relative, Eddy
Verkaik, who had fought in
the Dutch resistance during
the Second World War.
Eddy had helped alert the British to the
treachery of a fellow Dutch resistance
fighter — a terrifying giant of a man known
as “King Kong”: Christiaan Lindemans.
Lindemans had betrayed Operation
Market Garden, the ambitious and ill-fated
Allied airborne mission that dropped
thousands of paratroopers into the
Nazi-occupied Netherlands, the 80th
anniversary of which falls this September.
Had it succeeded, it would have kicked open
the door to the heart of Germany and
brought the conflict to a speedy end. In the
event the Allies lost more than 17,000 men
in what was to be their final defeat of the war.
But one day in the archive everything
changed. I discovered a second double agent Anthony Blunt, left, with fellow extraordinarily was allowed to keep his job
had betrayed Operation Market Garden to students at Cambridge, 1929. in the royal household.
the Germans — a spy codenamed Josephine, Below: Blunt is exposed as a So when, in 1979, he was named publicly
whom history had all but forgotten and Soviet spy and stripped of his as a double agent by the prime minister,
whose identity has never been revealed. knighthood in November 1979, Margaret Thatcher, the establishment of
As I started to pull on that thread, who after years in the royal household the day went into a frenzy of damage
should pop out but Anthony Blunt, one limitation. Blunt lost his knighthood, but
of the Cambridge spies — the group of otherwise survived remarkably unscathed.
upper-class double agents who, for years Most of the Cambridge spies had
during the Second World War and the Cold defected to Russia: Guy Burgess and Donald
War, passed British and American secrets Maclean fled there in 1951 and 12 years later
to their communist masters in Russia. they would be joined by Kim Philby. While
For decades Blunt has widely been they were drinking themselves to death in
regarded as one of the more harmless of their dingy Moscow flats, Blunt continued
that group. But my research would suggest to bask in the approval of rich and powerful
he was perhaps the most devastatingly friends who were all at pains to point out
treacherous — and without realising it that he had passed secrets to the Soviets
I had uncovered one of the greatest spy only while they were our allies during the
mysteries of the 20th century, a story with war. That wasn’t treachery, they said,
ramifications that are still felt to this day. it was misplaced idealism. Nothing like the
Of all the Cambridge spies, the privileged others, who were busy passing on nuclear
sons of the British establishment recruited by secrets and betraying agents in the field at
Stalin in the 1930s, Blunt remains the most the height of the Cold War.
elusive. He was a polymath, a multilingual That, to a large extent, is still the general
mathematician, world-famous art historian, view of Blunt, who died of a heart attack at
surveyor of the Queen’s pictures, knight his home in Highgate, north London, in
of the realm. Rumours had swirled about 1983, aged 75: the most benign of the group
his loyalty for years. In 1964 he secretly in terms of the damage done and the
“confessed” to being a Russian spy — but betrayal wrought; notable as much for

WAR AND TREACHERY


1930 1940 1941 1942 1943 1944

1930s 1940 1943 June 1944


While a fellow of Trinity After a year in the A traitor, codenamed “Josephine”, As D-Day approaches,
College, Cambridge, Anthony British Army, Blunt who is passing information to Josephine’s activity
Blunt joins a circle of joins MI5 and quickly Karl Heinz Kraemer, a German mysteriously resumes,
disaffected young men, later rises to the top of spymaster, is identified by the US. at first passing
known as the Cambridge Five, British intelligence Blunt is tasked to investigate and disinformation to
who become involved in names the Swedish diplomat Frank the Nazis
spying for the Soviet Union Cervell as the mole

September 1939 September


Germany invades June 1941 1944
Poland, starting Germany December 1941 Operation
the Second July-October 1940 invades the USA enters June 1944 Market
World War Battle of Britain Soviet Union the conflict D-Day Garden

1930 1940 1941 1942 1943 1944


An MI5 report on Christiaan
Lindemans, codenamed “King Kong”,
a Dutch double agent blamed for the
betrayal of Operation Market Garden

cropping up in the Netflix show The Crown,


played by Samuel West, as anything else.
But his story never really made much
sense. The son of a well-connected
Hampshire vicar and a distant cousin of the
Queen, Blunt had got to Cambridge on
a maths scholarship but took a first in
modern languages and then almost
single-handedly created art history as an
academic discipline in the UK. He was an
intellectual with a global reputation.
After a brief stint in army intelligence
Blunt joined MI5, the UK’s domestic
counterintelligence and security agency, in
1940, by which time he was already working
for the Russians. Once he got his foot in the
door his career grew wings. During the Blitz
he was the personal assistant to the head of
counterintelligence; by the end of the war
he was writing Churchill’s personal security
briefings with a pivotal role at the heart of
Allied intelligence. As the spy writer Nigel
West put it, “Few spies in history could ever
PREVIOUS PAGES: SNOWDON / TRUNK ARCHIVE, GETTY IMAGES. THESE PAGES: GETTY IMAGES, MIRRORPIX

have been presented with such a spectacular


opportunity.” Given such a unique position,
could he have really done so little with it?
What I would go on to discover was that
his betrayals had directly and intentionally
aided the Nazi war machine and caused
the deaths of thousands of soldiers and
civilians. I would come to realise that the
establishment version of Blunt as a
high-minded, unworldly figure somehow
removed from the grubby realities of his
treachery was not just a myth but that he
was truly monstrous, far more so than any 40,000 paratroopers were dropped to a hero of the Dutch resistance, had been
of the other Cambridge spies. capture key bridges and pave the way for passing secrets to the Germans. After the
Allied tanks. Had it succeeded, the road to D-Day landings in 1944, when Allied victory
The King Kong problem Berlin would have been opened. The war was all but inevitable, he mystified the
Operation Market Garden (see panel could have been over by Christmas, with Germans by volunteering to continue to
overleaf ) retains a romantic hold on the hundreds of thousands of lives saved. spy for them. Lindemans would cross and
national imagination that puts it alongside I was deep into my research of the biggest recross the front lines, bringing intelligence
Dunkirk and the Battle of Britain. Despite German counterintelligence coup of the to his Nazi paymasters and in particular
its failure, it is still regarded as the greatest war, Englandspiel — the England Game, and warn them — several times, in increasing
airborne operation in history, in which how Christiaan “King Kong” Lindemans, detail — of the vast airborne attack. ➤

1945 1946 1950 1960 1970 1980

September 1944 May 1945 October 1945 1964 1979


Operation Market Garden is Kraemer is captured and Blunt retires After being offered Blunt’s status
thwarted by the Germans, who interrogated. Blunt investigates. from MI5 and is immunity from as a double
receive tip-offs from two MI5 declares Kraemer an made surveyor prosecution, Blunt agent is
double agents, Josephine “inveterate liar” who had of the King’s secretly confesses to revealed
and “King Kong” fabricated Josephine pictures having been a spy for publicly. He is
the Soviet Union stripped of his
April 1945 knighthood
Russian soldiers enter the heart
of Berlin and hoist the Red May 1945
Flag on top of the Reichstag, Victory in
October 1944 completing Stalin’s victory Europe.
Soviet troops cross and staking his territorial Germany March 1947 March 1962
into Germany claim to eastern Europe surrenders Cold War begins Cuban missile crisis

1945 1946 1950 1960 1970 1980


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In truth, Lindemans’s story is far from
unknown, although experts disagree on
how important a figure he was. In the UK
most military historians have little regard
for the impact of his treachery. The story is
very different in the Netherlands, whose
people suffered so terribly, and certainly in
the immediate aftermath of Market Garden
there were many senior figures who
regarded his betrayal as crucial. The point
everyone can agree on is that the Germans
did an unexpectedly brilliant job of British troops are
improvising a defence. taken prisoner
After a couple of years of following the by the Germans
archival trail, I found a secret report in during the Battle
the National Archives in Kew dating from of Arnhem —
1946 about a meeting between a British the Allies’ final
intelligence officer and Lindemans at the defeat of the war
prison in the Hague where he was being
held on treason charges. According to the OPERATION MARKET GARDEN
files, the officer discovered that Lindemans
and his wife were working for the Russians.
Lindemans then named leading communist The D-Day landings in June 1944 just half an hour, the antitank guns of
agents operating in key positions in the brought the Allies to the brink of Kampfgruppe Walther, a unit cobbled
West. Within days Lindemans was dead, victory. One final blow and the whole together by the German commanders,
supposedly by suicide — although there is Nazi carapace would come crashing ripped into the British column.
strong evidence he was the victim of a down. That blow was meant to be Sixty miles away, 20,000 British and
poisoning. (The Kremlin playbook hasn’t Operation Market Garden, the largest American paratroopers had landed and
changed very much over the years.) airborne operation in history: 40,000 marched to Arnhem and Nijmegen.
paratroopers and glider troops (Market) They too ran into unexpected
The second spy: who was “Josephine”? were to be dropped in the Netherlands resistance from the improvised 9th and
The Russian link was an unexpected twist to secure six bridges over the Rhine, 10th SS Panzer Divisions.
that led me to a separate file in Amsterdam, clearing a path for the tanks of XXX German reinforcements flooded in.
and a reference to another warning that Corps (Garden) to push into Germany. Bitter fighting ensued for three days,
the Germans had received about Market The brainchild of Field Marshal until the last paras at Arnhem
Garden. This second briefing was sent to Bernard Montgomery, it was a huge surrendered with the tanks of XXX
Berlin the day before the Allied airborne gamble. The marshy terrain of the Corps just ten miles away. The losses
assault by a spy codenamed Josephine. polders made for treacherous going. were devastating: Allied casualties
What was even more puzzling was that Above all, the air drop was at the limit amounted to more than 17,000.
it was clear that the accuracy of this of operational range and on a scale It was the last Allied defeat of the war
second warning was far greater than the never attempted before. British tanks and ensured that it would not be over
intelligence passed on by Lindemans. would have 48 hours to cover 64 miles by Christmas. It was to be the Russians
If I was surprised, the reaction from and link up with the 1st British Airborne who would win the race to Berlin,
British intelligence and Allied military Division, who were to land by glider redrawing the map of Europe and
planners at the time was something close and parachute around the town of paving the way for the Iron Curtain.
to panic. Who on earth was Josephine? It Arnhem and secure the last bridge over At Arnhem the Allies had expected
turned out that because of a bureaucratic the Rhine — immortalised in the 1977 little resistance, but were met by a
error the warning didn’t reach the German film A Bridge Too Far. German force that was resilient and
generals until the armada of Allied aircraft, At 2.30pm on Sunday, September 17, prepared. Was that just because they
carrying the first lift of paratroopers, had the tanks of the Irish Guards started were battle-hardened veterans or had
already crossed the Dutch border and so their advance towards Eindhoven. After Market Garden been betrayed?
those historians who were even aware of
it have dismissed its significance. Yet this
intelligence included a detailed order of
battle and strategic objectives.
Josephine even neutralised MI5’s own Nazis had a mole at the heart of the war were so trusted that they were read
double agents who had been sending effort. The British codebreakers of Bletchley verbatim by Hitler himself. Alfred Jodl,
deceptive messages to the Germans saying Park, alerted by the American Office of the German chief of staff, and Walter
that any airborne attack in the Netherlands Strategic Services, the forerunner to the Schellenberg, the head of the Nazi secret
would be a dummy run and the real target CIA, had been monitoring Agent Josephine service, also regarded Josephine as their top
was Scandinavia. On September 17 the for more than a year, since mid-1943, when source of Allied intelligence.
German high command issued a briefing an MI5 officer described her reports as “the The threat from Josephine was all too
to field commanders warning them of this. best illicit intelligence derived by the enemy real and MI5 handed the job of tracking her
The view from the British intelligence from this country which I have seen”. down to one of their top men, a rising star
establishment at the time was far from By late summer 1943 British intelligence who was already tipped to be director
sanguine. MI5 had assured the cabinet that had identified the German spymaster general — none other than Anthony Blunt.
there was not a single Nazi spy on British running Josephine as Karl Heinz Kraemer, Blunt’s investigations in 1943 were
shores who hadn’t been exposed and a lawyer operating out of the German supported by a cast of sub-agents, many of
ALAMY

arrested or turned. Now it appeared the embassy in Stockholm. Kraemer’s reports whom were his former lovers. Blunt, who ➤

The Sunday Times Magazine • 13


BRITISH
INTELLIGENCE
Peter Falk In the Second World
MI6 spy in War MI5 was the
WHO’S Stockholm.
Raided the safe
domestic intelligence
service and MI6 the
WHO? of Josephine’s
handler, Kraemer,
agency responsible for
espionage abroad
and warned Blunt
The Second World War of a Russian link
spies at the heart of the
“Josephine” mystery

Anthony Blunt Juan Pujol


One of the Garcia “Garbo”
Cambridge spies Spanish MI5
recruited by double agent who
Boris Kreshin Russia. Rose to the deceived the Nazis Karl Heinz
Blunt’s NKVD top of MI5 during about the location Kraemer
handler in London the war Agent Josephine of the D-Day German spy based
in 1944/45 who Highly placed landings in Stockholm.
met the British mole who sent The conduit for
agent once a week Allied battle plans Josephine whose
at venues across for Arnhem to reports were read
London Kraemer. Blunt by Adolf Hitler
claimed she
didn’t exist
RUSSIAN GERMAN
INTELLIGENCE INTELLIGENCE
The NKVD, forerunner Abwehr, the German
to the KGB. Before the military intelligence,
Second World War it ran agents across
established stations in Europe and sent spies
the capitals of Europe to the UK, the majority
and recruited the of whom were arrested
Cambridge spies and turned

Walter Schellenberg
Kraemer’s boss. He
received Josephine’s
Arnhem warning
late, but said it
helped Germany
understand the
Allies’ intentions

was gay, recruited them independently and dinner at the Reform Club and passed
ran them outside of MI5. He and his team across the table documents that seemed
chased a succession of leads that led to suggest a Russian link to Josephine. Falk
nowhere. But then at the end of the year records in his unpublished memoir that
there was an apparent breakthrough by Blunt became uncharacteristically angry,
MI6, the intelligence agency that runs insisting that there could be no such
a network of spies overseas. connection, before gathering up the papers,
As luck would have it, MI6’s man in warning Falk to say nothing and promising
Stockholm, Peter Falk, had befriended to investigate. There is no record that Blunt
Kraemer’s housekeeper earlier that year and did any such thing, nor that he made any
persuaded her to pass on intelligence. As report of what he had been told.
well as copying documents that she found Shortly afterwards Blunt was to identify
in his office, she managed to press the key to Josephine as a loose-lipped Swedish
Kraemer’s personal safe into a pat of butter. diplomat called Frank Cervell, to whom he
From the impression it made, Falk was able had been able to feed false intelligence: sure
to send measurements to London. By some enough, the flow of Josephine’s accurate
miracle the key they sent back fitted perfectly, and damaging material was stemmed. It
giving London a line deep into the mystery of looked as if Blunt had got his man. But then
Josephine. The problem was Kraemer himself a strange thing happened. As preparations
didn’t appear at all sure who Josephine was, began in earnest for the D-Day landings of
or where her information came from. June 1944, Josephine piped up again.
One tranche of papers was deemed so The German spy handler Karl
sensitive that Falk decided to fly back to Heinz Kraemer in prison in The D-Day deception
London to deliver the information in person. England after his arrest in D-Day, the British and American invasion
On December 23, 1943, he met Blunt for Germany in May 1945 of Nazi-occupied Europe, was one of the ➤

The Sunday Times Magazine • 15


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greatest intelligence coups of this or any By now many of Kraemer’s colleagues
war. British intelligence (it was a joint from German intelligence had also fallen
MI5/MI6 operation) had an agent in Spain, into Allied hands. One of them was his boss,
one Juan Pujol Garcia, codenamed Garbo, Walter Schellenberg, who was certain that
masquerading as a fanatical Nazi who Josephine had helped the Germans by
passed information to the Germans and providing a detailed description of Allied
deceived them into believing that any battle plans around the Dutch town of
attack in Normandy was a feint and that Arnhem, near the German border —
the real attack would come around Calais. a critical point in Operation Market Garden.
It was stunningly successful; the Germans At 3pm on September 17, just two hours
held back vital Panzer tank reinforcements after Allied paratrooper and glider landings
for days in anticipation of an attack that had begun, two SS Panzer Divisions, the 9th
never came. Despite the fact that he had and 10th, were sent immediately to engage
got it so wrong, Pujol was even awarded the enemy at Arnhem and nearby Nijmegen,
the Iron Cross for his services to the Reich. an order that is credited with playing a
Garbo was one of the most closely decisive role in securing the German victory.
guarded secrets of the war, known only to There is a strong case to be made that the
a tiny number of intelligence officers — one Juan Pujol Garcia, codenamed speed of their deployment was as a result of
of whom was Anthony Blunt — and yet it Garbo, fed disinformation to the the intelligence the Germans had received.
transpired that Josephine had been passing Germans to divert troops from MI6 continued to faithfully pass on
on the same disinformation to the Germans. the D-Day landings at Normandy the Arnhem information to the MI5
When this fact emerged after the war, interrogators, but none of these allegations
Lieutenant Colonel Roger Fleetwood were ever put to Kraemer. Instead, just as
Hesketh, who had been a key member of Russian interests and, above all, that meant the year before, a succession of false leads
the D-Day deception team, was baffled and getting to Berlin and dominating eastern were followed and went nowhere until, on
dismayed to discover that “Josephine had Europe. Without that victory, there would Blunt’s orders, the case was quietly dropped
been playing with our toys”. After the war, have been no Berlin Wall and the Iron and Kraemer was sent back to Germany on
Jodl, the chief of the German staff, was Curtain, the line of communist rule that cut October 26, 1945.
adamant it was Josephine’s intelligence Europe in half at the war’s end, would have He was declared by the British to be an
that had been the most significant reason extended barely beyond the borders of “inveterate liar”, a justification that MI5
for Hitler holding back reinforcements. Russia. Josephine’s leaks align with Stalin’s used as the reason for refusing to share its
After D-Day, Josephine’s tactics changed: strategic goals to a remarkable degree. reports on Kraemer’s interrogation with
she now began to pass on worryingly On May 12, 1945, a British special forces the Americans. Given that it was American
accurate information about the Allied unit based in Denmark captured Kraemer, intelligence that had first alerted the British
war effort, culminating (but not ending the German spymaster who was the conduit to the existence of a high-level Nazi agent
in) the hugely detailed Market Garden for Josephine’s intelligence, in an office at codenamed Josephine, this must have
intelligence, which, at the time it was sent Flensburg, a town in the north of Germany seemed an act of extraordinary hypocrisy.
to Kraemer, was still known by only a that was serving as the country’s foreign It was one of Blunt’s last official duties
handful of senior Allied officers. office. Five days after being roused from as an MI5 officer. He spent much of early
Clearly Blunt had got the wrong man. And the bed he was sharing with his secretary, 1946 in Germany, where, among other
it was at this point that I began to seriously Kraemer arrived in England for interrogation. things, he recovered Edward VIII’s deeply
wonder what he had been up to. It was as if Leading the investigation was Anthony Blunt. compromising fan letters to Hitler. It seems
he was deliberately looking the wrong way. MI6 continued to insist that Kraemer likely there were numerous other royals to
Could it be that Blunt was Josephine and was being fed intelligence by a source in be disentangled from their enthusiasm for
had been tasked with investigating himself ? London and asked Blunt to investigate links the Nazi cause, as well as royal art to track
How could that make any sense? After all, to Moscow, following reports that Kraemer down, and that all this was to provide him
Blunt was a Russian spy not a German one. was working for the Russians. According to with a healthy store of kompromat against
one of the MI5 memos, Blunt responded by the royal family that was to protect him for
The race to Berlin saying this line of questioning was “flogging the rest of his life, as well as get him his job
Of course in 1944, after the success of a dead horse” and that he strongly believed as surveyor of the King’s pictures.
D-Day, it was unthinkable that a senior Kraemer was mostly telling the truth about
British figure could be passing secrets to his contacts, who he said were Japanese The elusive “Major Blunt”
the Nazis. Apart from anything else, who diplomats and Hungarian agents operating The official story of Josephine is told in
would be willing to risk execution for from the Iberian peninsula. a 300-page report commissioned by the
treason in pursuit of a losing cause? British secret services in the 1970s. Written
However, thwarting Operation Market by the retired intelligence officer Patricia
Garden was of strategic importance not just McCallum, it calls itself, simply enough,
to the Nazis but to Russia too. Stalin had a report into “the Kraemer (or Josephine)
wanted D-Day to succeed because it would MI6 insisted Kraemer case”. No explanation is given as to why,
open up a second front in Europe and draw
German troops away from the Russian
had a source in London. thirty-odd years after the event, MI5 were
still scratching their heads.
front. But if Market Garden was successful Blunt said this line of The report was declassified in 2003 when
the Americans and British would arrive in MI5 quietly released it into the National
Berlin first, while Stalin’s troops remained questioning was Archives. It painstakingly examines how
stranded hundreds of miles to the east. As Kraemer had received the Arnhem report
Vladimir Putin recently reminded us, Stalin
“flogging a dead horse” from Josephine on the eve of Market
was less concerned about the struggle Garden, and presents in great detail how
against fascism than winning the “great MI5 and MI6 had mounted a forlorn hunt
patriotic war”. It was about advancing to establish the mole’s identity. ➤

The Sunday Times Magazine • 17


McCallum noted that MI6 and MI5 had
bitterly disagreed over the provenance of the
intelligence. MI6 were convinced Josephine
was a real agent working out of London. MI5,
guided by Blunt, had come to deny her very
existence and said Kraemer had invented
her to hide from Berlin the fact he didn’t
have any real agents. Certainly Kraemer
never met Josephine and had no idea who
or what she was. He merely received her
intelligence from a variety of sources and
passed it on to his masters in Berlin.
McCallum notes how odd it is that no
investigation into the Arnhem betrayal
had taken place immediately after it came
to light. Thirty-plus years later, having
been asked to conduct her inquiries, she
concludes that it is impossible to discover Left: Blunt grants an interview
who had given away the Arnhem to The Times after going into
intelligence. She writes: “Finally, it must be hiding in 1979. Above: his fellow
admitted that the Kraemer case is and will spy Kim Philby, right, in 1955
always remain something of a mystery.”
Yet there is one name at the heart of the
Josephine inquiry that raises questions the means and opportunity in spades. He handler to say that he was quitting. The
report doesn’t even begin to address. could also rely on a highly organised and Russians responded by love-bombing their
A certain “Maj. Blunt” strolls in and out of its well-resourced network of Russian agents agent and at the end of September 1944
pages without the author once mentioning and British traitors working out of London Blunt met his handler, Boris Kreshin, in
that this is that Major Blunt, the Russian and Stockholm. Russian intelligence had London. The Russians wanted to pass on to
double agent. When McCallum came to a large official presence in London from Blunt how delighted they were with their
write her report, Blunt had admitted his 1941. It was all too easy for him to pass on English spy and Kreshin took great pride
treachery a decade earlier. So why wasn’t at least 1,700 secret documents to Moscow in reading out a commendation from the
his double agent status taken into account? and, if he was Josephine, then he was the Kremlin. It was accompanied with a £100
It is surely worth a mention if one is looking apex of a well-oiled Russian disinformation payment, worth about £6,000 today. Until
into how vital operational intelligence came machine cherry-picking what to feed back then Blunt had always been careful not to
to be passed to Britain’s enemies? to the Germans. accept money from the Russians as he
Why was Blunt being treated as if he was By 1944 Blunt was writing Churchill’s maintained his treachery was motivated by
just another bona fide intelligence officer? security briefings; he was the liaison for political ideology. This time he gratefully
Why was it that McCallum makes no intelligence sharing between MI5 and MI6; accepted the cash.
reference to the fact that Blunt had also led he had an oversight role on the deception Tellingly, it was Philby — then in charge of
the 1943-44 investigation into the identity committee. He was also in charge of the anticommunism as head of MI6’s Section
of Josephine? McCallum refers to the Triplex operation, still secret today, that IX — who oversaw the handling of the
earlier investigation often, but without ever intercepted every single diplomatic bag Kraemer case after Blunt’s retirement from
mentioning Blunt. The oddities mount up, from Allies and neutral countries with the secret services in 1945, at the age of 38.
but perhaps the most startling is the embassies in London. It was this role that And it was Philby who kept the Americans
moment when, in reference to the D-Day gave him the most likely means to pass on at bay when they began asking tricky
deception, she writes cheerfully: “One intelligence to the Nazis. The Arnhem questions about Josephine and Kraemer.
thing is certain. Had Josephine been a real warning was delivered directly to Kraemer Philby would become the most famous of
agent, she would have had to be a member by diplomatic mail. If that failed there were the Cambridge spies. But if Blunt really was
of the deception staff !’’ Anthony Blunt was regular commercial flights to Stockholm Josephine then that not only places him as
a member of the deception staff. from Scotland and he even had the the most important member of the group,
The reality is that just as Christiaan extensive Iberian spy network of his fellow but arguably the most influential spy in
Lindemans’s treachery only really makes Cambridge spy Kim Philby to call on. history. His actions contributed to the deaths
sense when seen through a Russian lens, so The day after the Arnhem betrayal an of tens of thousands of Allied servicemen
it is that Josephine only really makes sense emotional Blunt contacted his Russian and women and countless civilians who
as Blunt. The alternatives are either that perished as a result of a prolonged war. The
there really was a fervent Nazi at the heart million or more German women who were
of the Allied war effort who operated in raped by the Russians in the aftermath of
secret and then disappeared from view their victory can also be laid at his door, as
having fooled every single intelligence The day after the well as the decades of brutal oppression
agency in the world, or that Kraemer was
such an inspired liar that he was able to
Arnhem betrayal an under the Soviet yoke suffered by millions
more citizens of eastern Europe. His actions
invent Allied battle plans with startling emotional Blunt shaped the history of the 20th century and
accuracy. Neither alternative stacks up. continue to shape the world today n
contacted his Russian
The cover-up: Kim Philby steps in
handler to try to quit The Traitor of Arnhem by Robert Verkaik
REX, GETTY IMAGES

A smoking gun, if there is one, is hidden (Headline £20) is published by Headline


in the files of either the British or Russian on May 9. To order a copy go to
secret services and there it will for ever timesbookshop.co.uk. Discount available
remain. But Anthony Blunt had motive, for Times+ members

The Sunday Times Magazine • 19


40 YEARS
OF FLAK

Jeremy Bowen and Justin Webb


met on their first day at the BBC in
1984. They tell Rosamund Urwin
how they’ve survived real bullets
and the barbs of the culture war

Above: Jeremy Bowen


PORTRAIT BY and Justin Webb as BBC
trainees. Right: outside
DEAN BELCHER Broadcasting House

20 • The Sunday Times Magazine


The Sunday Times Magazine • 21
ustin Webb and Jeremy Bowen

J
are like an old married couple.
The two BBC lifers — Webb is
the longest-serving presenter
on Radio 4’s Today programme
while Bowen is international
editor — have heard each
other’s anecdotes so often they
remember the punchlines, and
while they speak over and mock
each other, their teasing is
infused with affection.
The pair have been friends
since they met in 1984 on their
first day as graduate trainees at
the BBC, have whiled away
evenings together in the pubs of
W1A, live a road apart in south
London and Bowen even played accidental
matchmaker to Webb, introducing him to
his wife three decades ago. drunk in those days I think a relaxed
The journalists are celebrating 40 years approach to the news was good.”
at the corporation this month. Webb is 63 Newsroom culture has changed during
now, Bowen 64, but they still have an their careers. “I can remember someone
appetite for entering hostile territory: the chucking a typewriter at a colleague,” Webb
former with culture wars and the latter with recalls. “People smoked the whole time and
actual wars. In fact, BBC bosses seem so were drunk most afternoons.” That boozy
nervous about potential controversy — culture ended in the 1990s, Bowen says,
whether on trans issues or Gaza — that a pointing across the road to the Crown &
press officer is sent to supervise us. “Do Sceptre, a favourite BBC haunt. “It was
they really need a chaperone?” I ask her. She packed with everybody from the radio
laughs nervously. I think that means “yes”. newsroom at lunch, after the 6pm bulletin
We’re chatting in a café round the corner and after the 10pm. Some people would go
from Broadcasting House in Fitzrovia, to the pub three times a day. ”
central London. Neither has grown jaded. Webb was a reporter on Today in the late
Bowen still talks about the “privilege” of 1980s and recalls cabinet ministers and
reporting, while Webb has retained his bishops alike drinking whiskies in the green
sense of mischief — and he still sounds room with John Humphrys and Brian
bouncy at 6am. “I’m paid to sound cheerful Redhead when they came off air at 9am. He
[while] Jeremy is paid to crawl under barbed also once filed a piece after midnight and
wire and be shot at,” he says. “That’s how remembers showing it to the night editors:
our careers have diverged.” “As it played, they all toppled over sideways. breakfast TV presenter in history”) and
When they started at the BBC they were They were so pissed they couldn’t get to Bowen as co-host with Sophie Raworth of
in a group of eight trainees. Bowen recalls the end of a three-and-a-half-minute piece.” BBC Breakfast from 2000 to 2002 (videos
looking around the room and deciding that Those bosses and editors had mostly on YouTube show he looks happier being
Webb was the one he most wanted to have worked their way up from local papers; shot at). “Sophie used to kick me under the
a drink with; Webb says he was just glad Bowen and Webb were among the first desk when it was my turn to speak,” he says.
there was someone else who hadn’t been to wave of BBC journalists who had all been It did allow him a welcome break from
Oxbridge. Webb had studied at LSE, where to university. “It’s funny there are these chasing stories, though: “They [the
he wrote for the student newspaper The schemes to get people into the BBC who producers] think of you as an inflatable
Beaver, while Bowen, whose father Gareth aren’t graduates now, as it used to be the presenter doll that they can roll up and put
had been an editor for BBC Radio Wales, other way,” Bowen says. Webb adds: “That in a cupboard. They don’t give a damn what
had read history at UCL, where he was the generation of people we were you’re doing, as long as you turn up on
industriously avoided student journalism working under — they were extremely time.” Webb smiles in agreement: “If I ring
to spend more time in the pub. good at their jobs but [mostly] hadn’t gone up on my day off from Today, you can almost
Bowen recalls later being told by a to university. The greatest of them I worked hear the horror: ‘Why’s he calling us?’”
manager that he was — in modern parlance with.” He means Humphrys. Both want The answer, really, is that they are work
— a nepo baby. “He said, ‘We thought we more non-graduates at the BBC, with Webb obsessives. Webb has no hobbies and
would take a look at you because you were arguing that Today should again have a Bowen says that, while he likes wine and
Gareth’s boy, but we didn’t think you would presenter who hasn’t been to university. cooking, his life is his job and his family.
have a chance.’” The pair rose quickly through the ranks. Luckily both their partners work in similar
For Webb, his interview for his BBC Bowen’s first job overseas was as a radio fields: Bowen’s partner, Julia Williams —
traineeship was the only serious job correspondent in Geneva and he started with whom he has a daughter and son,
application he has done. “They asked me covering conflicts in 1989. After a stint as Mattie, 23, and Jack, 20 — was also a BBC
how I got briefed [on the news] in the a foreign correspondent, Webb became a journalist, while Webb’s wife, Sarah Gordon,
morning and I said I listened to the BBC News presenter in London. Both had is in advertising. They have three adult
headlines at the end of the World at One,” unhappy forays into breakfast TV: Webb as children: twins Martha and Sam, and Clara.
he says. “I’m not sure that would be the the main presenter on Breakfast News from The families live a street away from each
right answer now, but given they were all 1992 to 1997 (“I’m probably the worst other in Camberwell, southeast London. It

22 • The Sunday Times Magazine


“I’M PAID TO SOUND
CHEERFUL, JEREMY
IS PAID TO CRAWL
UNDER BARBED WIRE
AND BE SHOT AT. THAT
IS HOW OUR CAREERS
HAVE DIVERGED”
Top left: Jeremy Bowen Top right: Justin Webb
with Kurdish peshmerga presented Breakfast
soldiers during the 1991 News from 1992 to 1997
uprisings in Iraq with Sophie Raworth

Left: he was shot in the Right: Raworth also


head in Egypt in 2013 — worked with Bowen
but managed to do his for two years on BBC
news bulletin at 10pm Breakfast from 2000

was at Bowen’s leaving party, when he was


heading to Jerusalem, that Webb met Sarah.
She lived in the flat below Bowen.
When presenting Today, Webb goes to
bed at 8pm in a room at the bottom of the
garden to avoid disturbing his family, as he
has to get up at 3.30am. “When I started the
kids were really young and I just didn’t
sleep,” he says. “I remember Humphrys
saying, ‘Don’t mind all these briefings — I Webb feels in awe of Barnett, 39. “If you one, with a knife and blood” — so bad things
never read them — the only important thing have two young children, as she does, it’s can happen anywhere.
is to sleep.’ We all have different ways of just a magnitude more difficult. And frankly Webb had a difficult childhood. He
coping. [The former Today presenter] Evan it’s more difficult as a mother because revealed in 2011 that he was born as the
Davis used to listen to the sound of dolphins. babies usually look to Mum in the night. result of an affair between his mother,
PREVIOUS PAGES: DEAN BELCHER FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE. THESE PAGES: BAS SOLANKI, BBC, REX

My trick is being knackered as hell.” So hats off to any woman who does it.” Gloria, and Peter Woods, the BBC
Today is becoming less formal and stuffy Bowen remembers those days too: “I still newsreader. Woods visited him just once,
— in part due to competition from news have nightmares about the 3am starts. when Webb was a baby. In his recent
podcasts, Webb says, but also due to People die at that time of the day.” memoir, The Gift of a Radio, he wrote about
a generational shift in presenters, with It is strange to hear a war correspondent his stepfather’s mental illness and the
Amol Rajan joining in 2021 and the former fearing death in his sleep. I ask if Bowen’s horrors of the Quaker boarding school that
Woman’s Hour host Emma Barnett the children have ever been scared of him he went to at 11 where, at the time he
latest addition to the roster. covering war. “I don’t think they are unduly attended, there was no hot water and where
Rajan and Webb initially had a “friendly worried because quite rightly they are always he says children were “tortured” by other
disagreement” about how to speak on air, confident I will come home,” he replies, but pupils. Yet some assume — with his perfect,
with Rajan saying that Webb’s “received then he starts talking about being shot in posh pronunciation — that he is the
pronunciation” was overused on Radio 4 the head and leg in Cairo in 2013: “The embodiment of “white male privilege”.
and Webb arguing that it is vital to be clear bloke next to me had the back of his head “I’m not a great fan of self-analysis or the
to be understood. “Amol doesn’t even like blown off. I had to have surgery to get the narcissism of the modern age. I think you
saying ‘good morning’ — he likes to say bullets out, so I called up Julia and said, ‘I’m have to deal with the cards you get and lots
‘hello’ — and people come up to me and OK.’ I did the ten [news bulletin] that night, of my cards were great, including my lovely
say, ‘I do like you on Today — you speak as I thought I’d had a bit of a tough day, mother,” he says. “But I think people are
properly,’” Webb says. “But Amol actually I might as well have something to show for more complex than the sight of them and
won this argument — it’s important that it.” Jack was 10 and Mattie 12 at the time and the sound of their voices might suggest.”
we have a range of voices. Mishal [Husain] Julia tried to make light of it. “Apparently Both have moments when they think that
and I speak the same way, but it’s not how they said, ‘Why are you joking about this?’” they can’t carry on. For Bowen, it’s when he
most people do. I was being overly sensitive He adds later that he once suffered a sets out on yet another trip to a war zone:
and we have now kissed and made up.” mugging in Camberwell — “a violent “I’ll be getting an early taxi, going down ➤

The Sunday Times Magazine • 23


the Embankment when the sun’s coming the former controller of BBC1, recently out,” he says. “For both of us in our different
up, and I think to myself, ‘Why the f*** am accused Bowen of “institutional arrogance” areas: Jeremy with his flak jacket, which I
I still doing this?’” For Webb, it’s when he after Bowen admitted that some of the regard as minor league compared with the
sees the toll early starts are taking on his BBC’s coverage of the explosion at the culture wars in which I’m on the front line
face: “I look in the mirror and I see my al-Ahli hospital in Gaza City had been with no flak jacket.” There is no respite from
father — those baggy eyes and a slightly wrong, but that he didn’t regret it. Bowen culture wars. Webb may have won an army
dazed look — that is Peter Woods. I always had said the hospital was flattened, which of fans among middle-aged women at the
feel jet-lagged even though I never travel.” it had not been, while one of his colleagues BBC for his probing on transgender issues,
speculated that an Israeli airstrike was but the corporation upheld a complaint

O
n October 7 Bowen was in Ukraine, responsible when the most likely cause was against him earlier this year after he said
but he left almost immediately for an errant rocket launch from Gaza. “I have “trans women, in other words males” in a
Israel and has spent most of the reported extensively from the Middle East debate on Today. About an hour before we
past six months there. He has only for years, so I’m very experienced in the meet, the director-general, Tim Davie, said
been into Gaza once in that time, region,” he responds. “I’ve written books in Westminster that Webb’s wording was
in an armoured personnel carrier about it. So I don’t mean to sound arrogant a “foot fault” and that the BBC has a duty
with the Israeli army. “This was but I’m confident in my journalism. This to be “nice” on this issue. This rap on the
only halfway through November, story is extra hard to cover partly because of knuckles has put Webb in diplomatic form.
but even then northern Gaza was the way that people twist what you say and “The director-general has spoken, so I don’t
a wasteland,” he says. “I’ve seen a lot of [a lack of ] access.” He adds that the BBC need to,” he says. “There are people who
destroyed towns but it was right up there was quick to correct the idea that the attack feel very strongly on both sides. We need to
with Aleppo after the Russians carpet- may have been carried out by Israel. be able to tell the truth but, as the director-
bombed it. But they did that in a couple of “It’s predictable how people who don’t general told MPs, we also need to be kind to
years; this had been done in a couple of like what we do seize on things like that,” he people and note that we are caught in the
weeks.” He accuses both the Israelis and the says. “People don’t want impartial reporting middle of shifting sands.”
Egyptians of “news management” by not — they want support, acknowledgment Although Webb and Bowen may get in
letting journalists in: “It is very hard to of their victimhood and cheerleading. We occasional trouble, they remain loyal to the
report on a story fairly when you don’t have don’t do that. For me, impartial means BBC. They both find people increasingly
access to a big part of it.” truthful. It doesn’t mean ‘on the one hand, ask, “What have they told you to say?” as
In the past Bowen has faced complaints on the other hand, therefore the truth lies though “shadowy figures” at the top of the
of bias against Israel in his coverage of the somewhere in between.’” corporation are taking a red pen to their
Middle East. Every word he utters about the Webb is also hyper-aware of nastiness scripts. “No one tells me what to report,”
conflict is scrutinised, but social media has online now. “We are much more available to Bowen says, adding that only once in his
added an extra dimension. Danny Cohen, be harangued than when we were starting career has an editor tried to change his

24 • The Sunday Times Magazine


Webb and Bowen outside the BBC
headquarters in Portland Place, London

pensions, yachting in the Isle of Wight,”


Webb says, laughing. (Not that they are
poorly paid: Webb earns about £280,000
a year, Bowen about £230,000; they are
both in the top 40 highest-paid BBC stars.)
The pair have both had health scares:
Webb had heart surgery in 2012 after his
left coronary artery became blocked, which
he thinks was “probably due to stress from
the job”, while Bowen was diagnosed with
stage 3 bowel cancer in 2019. His friend and
colleague George Alagiah died from the
disease last year at 67 and Bowen is keen to
reduce the stigma. “People are embarrassed
to talk about poo and it is all about poo,” he
says. “I was fortunate because it was about
the last point where it could still be caught
and cured. Colonoscopies for life, but I don’t
DEAN BELCHER FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE

mind that because you get the best sleep


script — about 15 years ago, when he says, meaning that the programme is too you will ever have from fentanyl.” Webb
described the Israeli military occupation of off-the-cuff and chaotic to be manipulated. giggles: “I hope that’s not the headline.”
Gaza as “brutal”. He bristles at the memory: “You seriously think I’ve thought much Despite this, retirement remains a dirty
“He said he’d rather I didn’t call it brutal. about who this person is? And the BBC isn’t word. “No thanks,” Bowen says. “I’d get
I said I’m not going to change my script; monolithic with its own worldview. There bored and also I’m only 64. John Simpson
I thought, ‘Screw him!’ And then it went out are so many people [managers] with ideas is still going and he’ll be 80 this year. I fully
and they had snipped the word ‘brutal’ out.” about how things should be covered.” intend to keep on working for now.” Webb
Webb finds this idea an affront too. Many of their contemporaries became laughs: “I think we’re just coming into our
“We’re not told what to say, but also people managers, jobs that had no appeal for them. prime, actually.” Then they both say, almost
have no idea how shambolic Today is,” he “They’re all now retired, enjoying their in unison: “The best days lie ahead.” n

The Sunday Times Magazine • 25


It’s not a
break-up.
It’s une
évolution
amoureuse
The end of Justin and Sophie Trudeau’s
picture-perfect marriage shocked Canada.
What does a former first lady do next? Reinvent
herself as a wellness and relationship guru, obviously

INTERVIEW BY
LOUISE CALLAGHAN

PORTRAIT BY
SASHA ONYSHCHENKO

26 • The Sunday Times Magazine


The Sunday Times Magazine • 27
“I’M PROUD OF
HOW JUSTIN AND
I ARE NAVIGATING
THIS. WHEN WE’RE
TOGETHER AND
WE LOOK AT EACH

T
OTHER, THAT’S
WHAT COUNTS”

he most startling political earthquake to and pulling up at the base of my skull. “Non, non, non, non, non,” she says in her
have hit Canada in nearly a decade came on She is remarkably happy to talk about warm, throaty voice, which carries a slight
August 2 last year in the form of matching most matters. We discuss meditation, French-Canadian inflection. “You know,
Instagram stories from the prime minister, lip liner and steamed hotdogs (they sound in some ways it’s boring for some people
the tousle-haired Justin Trudeau, and his revolting: she craved them during one of because we’ve always been truthful to each
wife, Sophie Grégoire Trudeau. her pregnancies). Though when I bring other. We don’t hold secrets … That’s not
For eight years, since Trudeau came to up the “break-up”, she winces. the dynamic we have. And let me be honest:
power in 2015, they had been the shiniest “You used the word break-up, right? in some ways I’m very proud of how we —
political couple in the western world — I don’t feel that way.” not how the world thinks of us — how we
absurdly good-looking, absurdly in love, “A conscious uncoupling?” I offer. navigate this. When we’re together and
with three beautiful children, a gender- “That’s the only expression that exists we look at each other, that’s what counts.”
equal cabinet and liberal, feminist policies. that’s close enough,” she says. “I wish To make that work, she says, she has had
Though they had both spoken out about I could come up with a new, a new …” She to concentrate on ignoring what others
navigating ups and downs in their thinks for a bit. “We don’t have to dramatise, think and considering what is best for them
relationship, their united, glossy front end abruptly, break relationships in order as a family; making hard decisions rather
seemed immutable. to restructure our lives and our minds. And than just muddling on.
Now that fairytale was ending after 18 something changed, yes, something broke; “It’s not one abrupt change — it’s been
years of marriage. “As always, we remain I am not sure that’s how I mean it.” years,” she says.
a close family with deep love and respect for I ask if there was a sudden change in Clearly a new term is needed to describe
each other and for everything we have built the relationship. this elastic, re-forming, definitely-not-a-
and will continue to build,” the two wrote. break-up temporal and physical marital
In his post, Trudeau, 52, said they had change. I ask whether — given that we
separated after “many meaningful and agree such a term sounds better in
difficult conversations”. Soon, the media French — évolution might be better than
reported that Grégoire Trudeau, 49, was conscious uncoupling.
in a relationship with an extremely “L’évolution amoureuse?” Grégoire
dashing paediatric surgeon. Trudeau suggests.
When I meet her in Ottawa on a spring Perfect. Yet while she and Trudeau are,
morning at a restaurant called Arlo, where publicly at least, handling their separation
she had her 48th birthday party (there was with considerable magnanimity, it has been
dancing) and where the owner’s daughter the source of relentless intrigue in Canada
calls her “Auntie Sophie”, I am expecting and for the couple’s fans across the world.
a gaggle of publicists primed to stop me Many will, no doubt, be thrilled that she is
asking about the collapse of her marriage. now publishing a book, written before the
Instead I find her sitting on a bar stool, separation, called — incredibly — Closer
chatting to the make-up artist. She gives Together. It is a memoir-cum-self-help work
me a hug and within ten minutes has fixed about the necessity of deep connection
my cricked neck by standing behind me that mixes reflections on her own life —

28 • The Sunday Times Magazine


including her struggle with an eating Above: Sophie Grégoire Trudeau with Justin that it is there. Grégoire Trudeau was
disorder as a teenager — and interviews Trudeau in 2021, and with the Obamas in always trying to do more. Her biggest
with psychologists, therapists and people 2016. Below left: the family’s outfits were scandal during her near-decade at the
who have overcome adversity (including a mocked on a tour of India in 2018 centre of power was in 2016, six months
banking executive who came out as trans). after her husband was elected, when she
And it is packed with anecdotes about her said in an interview with a French magazine
relationship with Trudeau. In what must far from the current prime ministerial that, though she had nannies and an
have been a late-stage addition she writes: residence, the 22-room Rideau Cottage. assistant, she needed more staff because
“Though we are no longer a couple, I know Her and Trudeau’s three children — Xavier, she wanted to do more charity work. The
our shared sense of humour will always 16, Ella-Grace, 15, and Hadrien, 10 — come hashtag “PrayForSophie” went viral and the
help us weather the storms.” and go between the two houses at will. And, prevailing attitude among many Canadians
Hillary Clinton called it “candid and despite those rumours about the surgeon was that, well, she wasn’t elected, so why
enlightening”, while Arianna Huffington (on which she will not be drawn), she and should they fund her office?
said that “all of us can learn from Sophie Trudeau seem to be very close. Today, she shrugs off that criticism. Then,
Grégoire Trudeau’s commitment to “We are still all hanging out together: we as now, she insists, she lives a fairly normal
PREVIOUS PAGES: SASHA ONYSHCHENKO FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE. MAKE-UP: SHANNON RANGER

collective growth”. Clearly, it’s Grégoire love each other, we spend time together. It’s life: zipping around town on her surfskate
Trudeau’s slice of the Goop pie, a launchpad organic — you know, the kids all sleeping (a kind of longboard) or her Vespa. I ask
out of the life of an unofficial first lady (the together one night, that’s fine. And I have a whether people recognise her at home in
title doesn’t exist in Canada) and into the little space for me and sometimes the kids Ottawa. “There’s not even a double-take,”
WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO ARLO RESTAURANT OTTAWA. THESE PAGES: GETTY IMAGES, REX

multibillion-pound wellness universe come there, and we’re just so close to each she says, deadpan. In her telling, she has
where she can deliver insights about how other that we do it organically,” she says. tried to give their children a normal and
“as much as we are thinking beings, we are “And it feels good, it feels natural. It doesn’t as private a life as possible.
feeling and sensing beings at our core”, and feel forced. It feels heartwarming.” But what about the glossy Instagram
use a solar eclipse to lead yoga classes that The couple have signed a formal posts with her perfect hair, glowing skin
promise to bring attendees “closer together separation agreement and, given that and adorable offspring?
as Mother Nature will show us the beauty Trudeau is constantly working and “First of all, no life is perfect,” she says.
of darkness”. travelling (he has to call an election before “People may have a perception of one’s life
October 2025) the majority of childcare and we have to be very careful about how

S
o what is life outside the presumably falls on her. Now, for the we think we know public personalities. And
prime ministerial bubble first time since quitting her job as a TV I don’t see myself as a public personality,
like? Over a citrus salad journalist when her children were young, just that there’s a public aspect to my life.
and a shrimp cocktail, she she is going back to work — hosting yoga But I’m not raising my kids under the
cheerfully explains that retreats, continuing her mental health spotlight. We go to the park and I’m in my
while she no longer has activism and promoting her book. sweatpants, we run errands and we roll in
a protection detail nor If anything, her schedule is ramping the grass. And that’s my life. Then there is
governmental duties, her up. Canada is not the United States and this other little part that’s quite unique.”
life hasn’t really changed that much since traditionally the role of the prime minister’s And another part, where she’s out
the separation. She lives in a “little” flat not spouse isn’t the all-consuming endeavour promoting a book that goes into personal ➤

The Sunday Times Magazine • 29


detail about her relationship with Trudeau. He did. On their first date, they went edge of ripping each other’s clothes off.
An example: in a quiz about “attachment out for dinner, then ice cream and karaoke (Grégoire Trudeau later said that they’d
styles” that she has filled out in the book, (Elton John’s Your Song was on the playlist) learnt to stare into each other’s eyes that
Trudeau ticked the box showing that she before going back to his place. As he was way in couples therapy.)
“often worries” that her partner will stop getting ready to drive her home in his rusty All that time on the yoga mat and in deep
loving her and that when her partner is Ford Bronco truck, he said: “I’m 31 years conversation with mental health experts
away she “is afraid” they might become old. I’ve been waiting for you for 31 years. has now left her with a laser focus and a
interested in someone else. She also Should we skip the girlfriend phase and quivering intensity. When I ask her what
apparently tends to “get very quickly start with fiancée?” They married in 2005. she does every day she locks into my gaze
attached to a romantic partner”. If a partner In 2013 Trudeau won the leadership of and says: “I’m a mom. I co-ordinate, I love
were to break up with her, she notes, she’d the Liberal Party and two years later led life, I take it in, I give, I try harder, I doubt.
try her best to show them what they’re them to victory in national elections. I think I just … I just … I love aliveness.
missing: “A little jealousy can’t hurt.” Their lives, now as parents of three young I want to give more.”
Ahead of an interview with a relationship children, were thrown open for public How did she handle the diplomatic
therapist she writes that her marriage, scrutiny. The duo appeared at rallies, went small talk among world leaders? “Some
despite its dreamy origins, has not been on a series of well-publicised trips abroad of them have a wicked sense of humour,”
“all smooth sailing”, and that therapy has — including one to India, where they were she says, later adding: “There’s good
helped her work through her issues. roasted for wearing outfits of the kind people out there.”
mostly seen in Bollywood dance numbers Among these is the former first lady

G
régoire Trudeau has — and took part in a Vogue photoshoot Michelle Obama, who described Grégoire
never exactly been where they looked as if they were on the Trudeau as her “soulmate”. They met
intensely private. As an on official engagements and were
only child growing up photographed laughing on the White
in a wealthy French- Grégoire Trudeau with her father c 1978. House lawn, as well as going out for
speaking family in Below: showing off her yoga moves lunch and shopping in Toronto.
Montreal (her father, “She’s funny. She has a great sense of
Jean Grégoire, was a humour and also very deep values that
stockbroker, her mother, Estelle, a nurse), I respect,” Grégoire Trudeau says.
she desperately wanted to be seen and As well as the pressures of being
appreciated by her parents and to make married to a head of state, there was the
friends. A mention of her childhood is additional life wrinkle of half the women
enough to bring her to the brink of tears. in the world thirsting after her husband.
“I remember as a child — and it makes Trudeau was dubbed a “smoking-hot
me emotional — I remember being so close syrupy fox” by E! Online and “so hot”
to life that I … [would always think] I want by the American actress Alyssa Milano.
to know more. Let me smell you, let me Photographs of him topless set the
taste you, let me feel you, let me see what internet reaching for fans.
I can know about myself when I’m with I ask Grégoire Trudeau about it,
you,” she says. “It’s a deep need, a longing expecting a diatribe about knowing
that I’ve felt for ever.” yourself. Instead she just screws up her
Though she was close to her parents, nose. “I think it’s ridiculous,” she says.
she worried about their (at times stormy) “It makes me laugh. I didn’t pay attention
relationship and felt lonely. As a teenager, to it for more than half a second.”
she developed bulimia. When she finally In recent years, the couple hadn’t been
asked for help, she had therapy and began seen out together so much and Trudeau
to recover. After university in Montreal, played less on his image as a family man. In
where she studied communications, she his 2014 memoir he wrote: “Our marriage
worked her way up as a TV journalist, isn’t perfect, and we have had difficult ups
writing the ticker tapes that go at the and downs.”
bottom of the screen before becoming a His own parents had met when his father,
presenter on eTalk, a Canadian channel. Pierre, was 47 and his mother, Margaret,
Then one day when Grégoire Trudeau was 18. Pierre served two terms as prime
was 27, she went to at a fundraising event in minister in Canada and had a famously
Montreal and reconnected with her future awful divorce in his final months in office.
husband, who was studying engineering at Margaret — who was eventually diagnosed
the time. She had known him as a child with bipolar disorder — later wrote that
through her friendship with his younger she’d had a number of affairs, including
brother, Michel, a school friend who died with Jack Nicholson.
in an avalanche when he was 23. Still, she was at her ex-husband’s
Now, as adults, she and Justin flirted deathbed when he passed away in 2000.
with a “sense of tender familiarity in the She later said: “Just because our marriage
air”. At least, that’s how it felt for her. ended didn’t mean the love stopped.”
The next day she emailed him, and was Trudeau Junior’s split is playing out under
disappointed when he didn’t get back to a stronger spotlight. Everyone I speak to in
her. When they bumped into each other Ottawa has an opinion on it, particularly
on the street in Montreal later that year, on the rumours that Grégoire Trudeau had
she was still annoyed enough that when started dating the aforementioned surgeon
he asked for her number, she said that if some time before the split was announced.
he really wanted it, he could find it. In February she was pictured going out for

30 • The Sunday Times Magazine


dinner with Marcos Bettolli, an Argentinian
paediatrician, and her children. His ex-wife
claimed in divorce papers filed last spring
that Betolli had “repartnered” with a
“high-profile individual”, named by Canada’s
National Post as Grégoire Trudeau.
The fact is, the power of Brand Trudeau
was waning long before this. After nine
years in power, many liberals have been
disappointed by what they see as the
prime minister’s failure to live up to his
progressive promises. More conservative
voters were angered by his crackdown on
personal freedoms during Covid-19, when
the government froze the bank accounts
of more than 200 anti-lockdown and anti-
vaccine protesters who had congregated at
the capital as part of a “freedom convoy”.
Now Trudeau is battling for a fourth
term, but Pierre Poilievre — the
Conservative leader — is beating him
squarely in the polls.
There is a sense that cheery old Canada,
so long seen in Europe as America’s sane
northern cousin, is actually quite a
miserable place. Homelessness has risen
dramatically in the last few years and there
is a serious lack of affordable housing. To
many ordinary people who are struggling
to get by, the vagaries of the rich and
glamorous Trudeau dynasty are a bit much.
In this environment, the évolution of the
SASHA ONYSHCHENKO FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE. MAKE-UP: SHANNON RANGER. INSTAGRAM / SOPHIE GRÉGOIRE TRUDEAU, FACEBOOK / SOPHIE GRÉGOIRE TRUDEAU

Trudeau marriage is a matter of national


significance, given that any damage to the
family image could put off voters. All of
which makes it even more remarkable that
Grégoire Trudeau has not only come out
with a book that deals in relationships and
her own with her husband, but that she’s when, with a quiet yelp, she realises that
talking about their separation so publicly.
After an hour with her, I don’t think she THE PUBLIC she’s almost out of time on her parking
meter. She’s got a flight to catch and says
could do it any other way. As she keeps
telling me, she craves authenticity and
genuine connection above all else. I can
INTEREST IN she has to go. I say she can’t, because I’ve
still got questions left to ask her.
“Shall we go in the car and do the
only imagine that whoever is in charge
of communications for the Canadian
government swiftly gave up on all attempts
JUSTIN’S LOOKS interview there?” she asks, so we jump
into her large olive-green 4x4 and she
offers to drop me off at the house I’m
to make her stick to beige talking points.
“I seek depth: I want more intimate, WAS “RIDICULOUS staying at in the suburbs of Ottawa.
I throw my final questions at her (about
truthful conversations, ways of expressing
our stories, our thoughts, sharing, coming
close together,” she says at one point.
— I DIDN’T PAY that rumoured new boyfriend) while
directing her through a complicated
junction. I say that all the multi-tasking
She loves a wellness-jargon soundbite
and is nothing but devoted to her yoga, ATTENTION TO IT we’re doing is like the game where you pat
your head and rub your stomach at the
therapy and meditation, but she’s also got
a mischievous edge, which makes her
very endearing.
FOR MORE THAN same time. At which point, in the middle
of three lanes of traffic, Sophie Grégoire
Trudeau lets go of the steering wheel and
Despite the polished public appearances,
the Trudeaus don’t seem to take themselves
too seriously. At home she plays pranks
HALF A SECOND” starts doing it, staring right into my eyes,
both of us laughing hysterically, while I
worry mildly about dying a fiery death on
on her kids, hiding and jumping out at the side of a highway in Ottawa with the
them. Meanwhile they roll their eyes former(ish) first lady. The G7 will be a lot
when she talks to them about meditation more boring without her n
and yoga, she says. It seems to me that,
after a genuinely very difficult teenage Closer Together: Knowing Ourselves,
period of bulimia, she has thought deeply Loving Each Other by Sophie Grégoire
about how to be happy and uncovered Trudeau (Random House Canada £26.99).
a way that works for her. Order a copy at timesbookshop.co.uk.
We’ve been talking for nearly an hour Discount for Times+ members

The Sunday Times Magazine • 31


The fishermen
Toothie, centre,
and Bever prepare
their lobster pots
while their friend
Whippet clutches
his new punk LP

When
the boat
comes in
In the 1980s Chris Killip began
photographing the young men
of Skinningrove, a fishing village
near Middlesbrough. Four
years after his death, the full
collection is being published
32 • The Sunday Times Magazine
The Sunday Times Magazine • 33
W
hen the photographer
Chris Killip first pitched up in
Skinningrove, a remote fishing
village in northeast England
between Middlesbrough and
Whitby, in 1982, he didn’t get
the warmest of welcomes.
“Like a lot of tight-knit fishing
communities, it could be hostile
to strangers,” he recalled.
Killip, who had grown up
on the Isle of Man, gained
the locals’ trust after befriending
a young fisherman called Leslie
Holliday, or “Leso”. “Leso and
I never talked about what I was
doing there, but when someone
questioned my presence, he
would intercede and vouch for
me with, ‘He’s OK.’ ” In 1986
Leso drowned at sea, aged 26.
The images Killip took of the
fishermen between 1982 and
1984 helped seal his reputation
as one of Britain’s greatest
documentary photographers.
In 1994 he became a professor
of photography at Harvard
University and was department
chairman from 1994 to 1998.
Before he died aged 74 in
2020, Killip returned to
Skinningrove for the first time
in 30 years. “I was shocked by
how it had changed, as only one
boat was still fishing. The place
seemed like a pale reflection of
its former self,” he said n

Skinningrove by Chris Killip


is published in May (Stanley/
Barker £50)

34 • The Sunday Times Magazine


Far left: a group of
Skinningrove men
— Leso, Blackie,
Bever, Toothie,
Richard and
Whippet — hang
out in the village.
Leso and Richard
would later drown
at sea in separate
incidents

Left: Bever and


Stephan take their
boat out. Both
went on to survive
the tragedy that
killed Leso in 1986

Far left: “You can’t


see the village
from the main
road,” Killip said.
“It’s fiercely
independent
and fiercely
protective”

Left: a mother
with her baby in
a pram looks out
to sea beside a
cartful of crabs

The Sunday Times Magazine • 35


THE FARCE
AWAKENS
AW
WAKENSS

TIM SSHIPMAN RETURNS


WITH THE UNMISSABLE NEXT INSTALMENT
OF HIS NO.1 BESTSELLING BREXIT SAGA
Whippet chats
to a boy on his
Chopper bike
while walking
his dogs on
the seafront

Bever, standing,
basks in the early
morning sunlight
after a run-in with
police following
a fight in a pub

The Sunday Times Magazine • 37


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TABLE TALK
kah
duk
with
o do
at t
Wh

Mark Diacono’s asparagus,


boiled eggs and dukkah

PLUS Will Lyons’s rosé-tinted picks ● Charlotte Ivers’s £800 dinner


in Copenhagen ● Ranked: honey and mustard dressing
The Sunday Times Magazine • 39
MAR K
DIACONO

n earthy Egyptian

A
spice blend, dukkah
is an elevating friend
to have to hand if you
want to bring instant
character and texture
to a dish. Making your
own is easy. Dry-fry
100g hazelnuts,
2 tablespoons of
coriander seeds,
2 tablespoons of cumin seeds,
3 tablespoons of sesame seeds
and a pinch of fennel seeds for
2-3 min, shaking the pan once
in a while until just fragrant.
Use a pestle and mortar or food
processor to reduce to a coarse
mix, then season. It is brilliantly
adaptable: try adding 1 teaspoon
of nigella, upping the fennel to
2 tablespoons, stirring in
1 tablespoon of dried oregano,
or adding chilli flakes. Swapping
the hazelnuts for walnuts or
pistachios makes it differently • Salt and black pepper dukkah and serve with the • 1 litre vegetable stock
delicious. It will stay fresh in a • 4 eggs, at room temperature eggs, a little extra dukkah • A good sprig of fresh
sealed container for 7-10 days. • 4 tbsp dukkah and salt and pepper. thyme, leaves only
• 4 tbsp dukkah
Asparagus, boiled eggs 1 Heat the oven to 200C fan/ Celeriac and leek soup • 100ml double cream,
and dukkah gas 7 and bring a pan of This is one of my favourite plus a little to serve
As much as I love boiled eggs water to the boil. soups for winter and spring, • 2 tsp chilli oil (optional)
and soldiers, in spring I want beautifully embellished by • Nutmeg
asparagus in place of the toast. 2 Mix the asparagus with dukkah’s welcome texture. It
Either way, a dash of dukkah the olive oil to lightly coat also doubles up the sweetness 1 In a large, heavy-bottomed
works wonders. The extra each stalk and sprinkle with of the leeks and the celeriac’s pan over a low/moderate
nuttiness that roasting gives salt and pepper. earthiness. By all means try heat, cook the onion and
the asparagus is so good, but making this with the same leeks in the olive oil for
you can simmer it for a few 3 Place in a single layer on weight of parsnips, Jerusalem 10-15 min until softened,
minutes in the egg water if a roasting tray and roast for artichokes or potatoes in stirring occasionally.
you prefer. Usually with about 10 min, until tender. place of the celeriac.
asparagus, I gently bend 2 Add the celeriac, garlic
the base until the tough 4 While the asparagus is Ingredients and ½ teaspoon salt, cook for
end snaps off, but here I use cooking, lower the eggs (Serves 4) 5 min, then add the stock and
the base as the handle so into the water and simmer • 1 onion, sliced thyme and simmer for 15-20
I can dip into the yolk easily. for 4-5 min to give a runny • 2 leeks, thinly sliced min, stirring occasionally,
yolk. Lift from the water • 3 tbsp olive oil until the celeriac is tender.
Ingredients and place in eggcups. • 400g celeriac, peeled
(Serves 2) and cut into 2cm pieces 3 Blend until smooth, adding
• 20 asparagus spears 5 Remove the asparagus from • 3 garlic cloves, chopped the cream as well as salt and
• 2 tbsp olive oil the oven, sprinkle with half the • Salt and black pepper pepper to taste.

40 • The Sunday Times Magazine


Tasted! The best
supermarket
HONEY AND
MUSTARD
DRESSING

OUR
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Briannas
Ocado, 355ml, £4.60
Almost as good as
my own! This is well
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with honey and mustard
flavour. Bravo 5/5

Pizza Express
Tesco, 235ml, £2.50
Has a slightly peppery
spice to it — the honey
comes afterwards. Very
thick, would drown a
salad, but I’d love it
with flatbread 4/5

Mary Berry’s
Ocado, 235ml, £3.30
No mustard here —
this is Mary’s hybrid
dressing, made with
4 Serve scattered with • 90g butter allow it to rest for 5-10 min, white wine vinegar. It
dukkah, swirled with a • 330ml double cream until the temperature is needs a good shake 3/5
little cream and chilli oil • Sea salt below 110C.
and dusted with a generous • 5 tbsp dukkah, plus a little Waitrose
scratch of nutmeg. extra to serve 3 Add a very generous pinch 150ml, £1.30 Very thin,
• Chilli flakes (optional) of salt to the fudge and beat very vinegary and I can’t
Dukkah fudge with a wooden spoon as really taste mustard or
This may be my favourite 1 Line a baking dish (about quickly as you can: it will cool honey. Careful when you
fudge, with the spices and 20cm x 18cm) with baking and thicken, and will gradually pour — it rushes out 2/5
salt at least trying to keep the parchment. Warm the sugar, come away from the pan. At
richness and sweetness in golden syrup, butter and this point, stir in the dukkah. Sainsbury’s
check. Three elements are cream in a medium-sized 150ml, £1.20 Bright
crucial: the temperatures; pan — it should be no more 4 Spoon the fudge into the yellow owing to the
stirring vigorously to ensure than a third full — over a low baking dish and smooth with addition of turmeric.
a beautifully smooth texture; heat, stirring frequently to a palette knife as best you can. The sharpness hits the
and allowing the fudge to dissolve the sugar. back of your throat 2/5
completely cool out of the 5 After an hour or so, cut it
fridge as this prevents it 2 Turn the heat up to into squares but don’t lift the M&S
becoming tacky. If you don’t medium-high and bring pieces out: leave it for at least Ocado, 235ml, £2.30
eat it all in a weekend, this to the boil. Put a sugar 3 hours to set properly. When Thick and gloopy — a
will keep for a fortnight in thermometer in the pan. Keep set, lift it out and scatter with sign of added stabilisers
a sealed container and at the mix bubbling, stirring more sea salt, chilli flakes and and gum. Has a garlic
least twice that in the fridge. occasionally to ensure the a little dukkah if you fancy n kick but I still wouldn’t
MARK DIACONO

sugar doesn’t catch. The put it on my salad 2/5


• 450g caster sugar moment the mixture reaches For more recipes, go to
• 2 tbsp golden syrup 115C, turn off the heat and markdiacono.substack.com Hannah Evans
R E S T A U R A N T S Charlotte Ivers l

A simple supper at the new


Noma — for £800 a head

GERANIUM
COPENHAGEN

ou are not to think

Y
you’re anyone special,
or that you’re better
than others. That’s the
first rule for a happy
life in Denmark. It’s
a concept they call
Janteloven: the idea
that a good Danish
citizen shouldn’t
flaunt too much
individuality, wealth or success.
This, naturally, inspires two
thoughts in the mind of the
honest Brit. 1) Oh, you Scandis
think you’re better than me,
do you, with your humility and
generous welfare state? And 2)
OK. Then why are there so many
restaurants in Copenhagen
where you won’t escape for
less than £500 a head? and are back on the plane by springy potato waffle that you
Well, primarily it’s Noma’s evening, as a waiter here tells ************************************** smear with sour cream and
fault. Twenty years of having the me one table did. Try to get a
THE DAMAGE pickled walnut leaves. As you rip
**************************************
world’s best restaurant in town table at Geranium and you’ll into the thing, you could almost
Spring universe menu £481
pulls other top chefs in. But fast be disabused of any notion be breaking bread with your
according to the jet-set set, that Scandi cooking is losing Wine and juice pairing £263 socialist brothers, but for the
Noma is now past its prime. its supremacy. The global fact you’re spooning a fat pot of
Service charge
Plus it’s about to reinvent itself super-rich are still flooding in. gold caviar on top.
(optional) £75
as an even more po-faced food Yet there’s an element of “Some places want to make
laboratory. Everyone who is Scandinavian understatement ************************************** a carrot taste like a radish,” the
anyone — or at least whose bank here. That might seem like a Total per person £819 co-owner Soren Ledet, who
account says they might be — deranged thing to say when used to work at Noma, tells me.
is going to Geranium instead. your only option is an 18-course “We want to make it taste like
Which brings me to the tasting menu for £481, but it’s the best carrot you ever ate.”
second factor at play: these true: the place named best beige and pale wood. To a He’s done it: a carrot sorbet
restaurants aren’t for locals. On restaurant in the world in 2022 British eye, there’s something with a white chocolate panna
the night I eat there, only two of is located on the top floor of of the regional hotel conference cotta-type cream, an intricate
the twelve tables are populated an innocuous office block, room about it. crystallised carrot cutout
by Danes. The locals I speak to dumped in the middle of a grey For some courses they have perched on top like a stained-
laugh at the very idea of going. car park, sandwiched alongside you eating with your hands. glass window. Eating it makes
No, these places are for the the national football stadium A spongy buttermilk bread me want to cry, which is also
type of people who fly in from like a pie and mash shop. Inside, pancake with a film of truffle a deranged thing to say. But
Taiwan, eat lunch at Geranium it’s sleek and modern, a sea of and foraged wild garlic. Or a eating at Geranium seems to

42 • The Sunday Times Magazine


make you want to come out
with a lot of deranged things.
Here’s another: this tastes
like simple food, as if each
ingredient has just become W I N E Will Lyons l

more of itself. It’s not. As Dolly


Parton once said: “It costs a lot
of money to look this cheap.”
Well, it takes a lot of talent to
Ready the rosé for the
make a menu that tastes this
simple. Glance at the open first blush of summer
kitchen and you’ll count at least
five pairs of tweezers in use.
“Boiled beetroot” here means
tiny, millimetre-thin, glowing, he choice of rosés gets more

T
2022 Mezquiriz Navarra Rosé
flower-shaped cutouts of the bewildering every year. As we head Spain (12.5%) Lidl, £5.49
stuff, dusted in cherry powder towards the May bank holiday all A smooth rosado from Navarra,
and swimming in savoury-sweet we’re looking for is a refreshing to the east of Rioja, this has
horseradish foam. “Sorry, did wine that will hit the spot with fresh notes of raspberry and
you say this is just boiled?” bright citrus acidity and can be cranberry, with a savoury kick.
I asked a chef in disbelief. She enjoyed straight from the fridge.
smiled sheepishly: “Ah, sort of. Yet we are confronted by rows of 2023 Señorio de Sarria
It’s a complicated process.” pink bottles online or on the shelf. Rosado Navarra Spain (14%)
I’ll bet. Everyone working How to choose? It’s not easy to The Wine Society, £7.95
here is an obsessive: young select by country when virtually This dark-hued garnacha
people brought in from all over every wine producer from England to imparts bold strawberry flavour,
the world the way 16-year-old New Zealand offers some kind of rosé. By with a light, balanced finish.
prodigies are sold to the colour? Provence has cornered the market
Premier League. In the open in strikingly pale pinks, but I feel we have La Vieille Ferme Rosé France
kitchen, there’s none of the reached peak Provençal rosé. At the top end (12.5%) Waitrose, £8.50
shouting and clanging of the they still offer good value, such as the silky, Very pale with a gentle pink
Gordon Ramsay school — or elegant 2022 Whispering Angel from Caves blush, this top-seller is fruity,
indeed of the Noma school, d’Esclans (Majestic, £23.99); and producers aromatic and easy-drinking,
where the head chef, René such as Domaines Ott, Domaine Ray-Jane with refreshing hints of citrus.
Redzepi, admitted to bullying and Miraval are worth tracking down. But
staff in the past, and started many don’t provide enough complexity for Taste the Difference
paying interns after one claimed the price and are becoming lighter in style. Bordeaux Rosé France
all she got to do for three months Darker-coloured rosé, produced in the (12.5%) Sainsbury’s, £8.50
was make beetles out of jam. southern Rhône appellation of Tavel and A no-nonsense, salmon-pink
Here, the chefs work in often using the garnacha grape in Spain, example using only merlot,
silence, moving instinctively has more structure and bite and pairs with bite and a crisp mouthfeel.
around each other like particles beautifully with food, particularly heavy
in Brownian motion. dishes with rich, garlicky flavours. These 2022 Sancerre Rosé France
ILLUSTRATION BY ALEX GREEN / FOLIO ART FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE. SANE SEVEN, JASON ALDEN

Could any dinner be worth are good options for the beginning and (13%) Asda, £15.50 It’s unusual
this cost? Well, yes. It could. But end of summer. I like the juicy, tangy 2022 to find a sancerre rosé in the
only if you’re into umami. Wild Arbousset Tavel Rosé (Tesco, £12.50). supermarket, but here’s a
mushroom soup with dark beer, Alternatively, should you choose by grape perky, structured pinot noir
almost meaty in its richness. variety? This is complicated when many with delicate floral aromas.
Roasted celeriac in a sauce of rosés are blends. Cabernet franc always
yeast flakes. Chunky walnuts, imparts structure but I favour grenache — 2022 Rosé La Dame Rousse
cauliflower mousse and often combined with cinsault or syrah. It’s Domaine de la Mordorée
sauerkraut foam. Imagine a miso by far the best grape for rosé as when fully France (14%) Lea & Sandeman,
soup you’d be willing to pay a ripe it imparts an agreeable fleshy £26.75 A blend of grenache,
month’s rent for: most of the definition. There is still a lot of clairette and syrah, this tavel
tasting menu tastes like that. value to be found in France in has lovely notes of redcurrant.
Among the besuited super- regions outside Provence such
rich, I spotted one man with as the Loire, even Bordeaux —
long scruffy hair and a denim try the full-bodied 2022 Bargain of the week
jacket. He had to be the richest Clarendelle Inspired
person in the room to have the by Haut-Brion 2020 M&S Classics Chianti
confidence to be that casual. Rosé (Laithwaites, Reserva Italy (13.5%) £9.50
There’s a metaphor there for £17.99). And don’t A sumptuous chianti with
what Geranium is doing. overlook the smoky hints of spice, dark
“You’re not to think you’re perennial wealth cherry and the signature
anything special” is the rule. of bargains from racy acidity of sangiovese.
These guys are special n the Languedoc n

The Sunday Times Magazine • 43


F A R M I N G Jeremy Clarkson ●

My harvest hymn — with


added Chinese chemicals
any of us will fields and scatter. The good tanks. Not much Goddishness

M
remember that seed on the land. But it is fed going on in any of that.
Mungo Jerry song and watered by God’s almighty There isn’t even any
featuring the line, hand.” Absolute timelessness. ploughing any more. In the
“Have a drink, have It was true ten thousand years olden days farmers would turn
a drive. Go out and ago and it’s true now. the top layer of soil over using
see what you can No, it isn’t. God doesn’t a plough so that the weeds were
find.” And of course water the land any more. The buried. And because they were
we all realise you coal-fired Chinese power deprived of sunlight they
can’t even think stations do that. And he doesn’t died. It was a lovely, natural,
that any more. And feed it either. That’s handled rosy-cheeked way of creating
nor, really, is it considered by CF Industries, which makes the perfect seedbed for the
acceptable to follow up with: all the chemical fertiliser that following year’s crop.
“If her daddy’s rich, take her farmers use on their fields. But then along came Little
out for a meal. If her daddy’s We don’t even scatter seeds Miss Thunberg and her merry
poor, just do what you feel.” any more, because that’s band of Packhamites, who
Times have moved on. wasteful onanism. We drill decided that 1,500 billion
Of course lots of lyrics now them into the ground, at precise tonnes of carbon is stored in
feel as if they’re from another intervals and at a precise depth the planet’s soil. And that if you
aeon. Clair by Gilbert O’Sullivan using a computer-controlled, turn this soil over with a plough,
especially. But you might think £40,000 seed drill. That’s towed all of it will be released into the
it’s impossible for the lyrics in a behind a £250,000 Case tractor, upper atmosphere in the form
harvest festival hymn to become which was built in the factory of carbon dioxide. Which is bad.
out of date. “We plough the where they used to make Tiger So the lovely, natural method of
more diesel than I would if I submarine, and wondering if
used weedkiller. So that’s not it might be cheaper, easier and
good for the environment kinder to the environment to
either. But here’s the kicker: use chemical weedkiller instead.
I wouldn’t be pumping any This is farming. Only last
chemicals into the soil. week I discovered that
So that’s the choice — soil or approximately 18 billion slugs
sky? You have to hurt one of have come to live in the fields
them if you want to eat. I went where I’ve planted spring
for the sky and rented a plough. barley. If I adopt a live-and-let-
I settled on an eight-furrow live rewilding attitude and do
monster for two good reasons. nothing they will eat the lot
Number one: the bigger the and, next year, there will be no
plough, the faster you get the Hawkstone lager. As that makes
job done. And number two: no sense, I therefore have to
none of Kaleb’s tractors would pepper the field with slug
be powerful enough to pull it, pellets, which will kill them.
so we’d have to use my 270bhp Great. But these pellets will
Lamborghini. Which would also kill all the worms. So what’s
annoy him. Even admitting that the answer? There isn’t one.
it’s better than his tractors gives Similarly, I have signed up to
him a hot flush. Sometimes the government’s eco-friendly
he vibrates with fury when he grant scheme and will be
goes near it. planting things that aren’t food
The only drawback to this in three fields. They’re good for
cleverly wrought large plough the soil and they’re good for my
plan was that, because Kaleb bank balance. But it means I’m
refuses to drive my tractor, not growing stuff people can
I’d have to do the ploughing. eat. I know one chap who has

killing weeds had to stop. And


instead farmers had to use
Do you want healthy soil or a healthy
chemical sorcery from sky? Bees or orangutans? These are
Monsanto, BASF and the
Zhejiang Xinan Chemical the questions I’m facing every day
Industrial Group.
Farmers didn’t mind, if I’m This is something I’ve done taken 60 per cent of his farm
honest, because ploughing is before. It was on Top Gear about out of food production and
extremely expensive. You 200 years ago and I did very he’s not alone. So yippee. All
simply would not believe how well. Partly this was because my that stored carbon and all of
much diesel is needed to drag a competitors in the ploughing that fixed-in nitrogen.
two-tonne land anchor through competition were James May But what if you want some
a muddy field. Using weedkiller and Richard Hammond. And bread? You’ll have to get a loaf
instead is much cheaper. partly because one of the two made from wheat that was
Or rather it was. But judges was a really good friend grown abroad. And how’s that
weedkiller prices have gone of my mum. good for global warming? And
up dramatically in recent years. In real life, though, things will it have been grown under
And from where I’m sitting it were different. I couldn’t hitch the same stringent rules that
doesn’t really seem to work any the plough to the tractor we have here? Or will it have
more. Every year Kaleb goes into without help. I couldn’t do a been fertilised with human
the fields like a rural Terminator, three-point turn when it was faeces? You face a choice then.
hosing down the weeds with his attached. And I couldn’t make Do you want net zero in the
ungodly chemical sorcery and the tractor move when the UK? Or do you want to eat
then, a few weeks later, Cheerful furrows were in the sodden a Mexican’s turd?
Charlie walks me through the soil. All four wheels just sort Do you want lager or worms?
same fields, pointing out the of spun. So I had to lift the Do you want healthy soil or a
brome and the black-grass, plough slightly, which meant healthy sky? Do you want bees
which is easy to spot because it’s I wasn’t ploughing. Or wiggle or orangutans? These are the
purple and green and completely the steering wheel, which questions I’m facing every
immune to anything the world’s made big holes and, when single day. It’s a multiple-choice
ILLUSTRATIONS BY BEN CHALLENOR

chemists can throw at it. it worked, caused me to set world of no right answers.
So this year Charlie said we off in a new direction. It began Which brings us back to
should become medieval and to look as if a drunk, blind another harvest festival hymn.
plough the fields instead. man with no arms was doing All things bright and
Selfish? Well, yes, this will the ploughing. beautiful. All birds that must
shoot a tonne of CO2 into the All the time I was watching be plucked. No matter what
troposphere and that’s obviously the fuel gauge plummet like we choose to do, we’re well
bad. And I’ll use four times the depth gauge in a holed and truly … n

The Sunday Times Magazine • 45


H E A LT H

The happiness diet


“Nutritional psychiatry” says we can eat our way to better mental health. By Giulia Crouch

oes what you eat chemicals that transmit signals Meanwhile, the second group help with anxiety too. One

D
affect your mood? in the brain,” the nutritionist stuck to their normal diet. study compared the anxiety
Obviously, devouring Rhiannon Lambert explains. After three months, the levels of anxious people who
a bowl of chocolate “For example, serotonin, group on the Mediterranean ate fermented foods with
ice cream or sinking often called the ‘feelgood’ diet experienced a much those who didn’t. Those
your teeth into a thick neurotransmitter, is derived greater reduction in their who ate fermented foods
slice of lavishly from the amino acid depressive symptoms than felt less anxious.”
buttered toast feels tryptophan.” Meaning that if the group who stuck to their Other fermented foods
good in the moment, you eat more tryptophan-rich regular diet, with a third of include kimchi, yoghurt,
but can your diet foods such as poultry, dairy, the participants meeting the cheese, sauerkraut and
provide more than a wholegrains and legumes, criteria for remission, compared kombucha, which also
quick hit of happiness? Could you could feel happier. with 8 per cent in the group support a healthy gut.
your food — and how you eat it Lambert continues: “The who didn’t change their diet.
— have lasting effects on your balance of omega-3 and omega-6 Other studies have also Go (leafy) green
mental wellbeing? Scientists fatty acids, antioxidants and demonstrated this link between All vegetables are good for your
are beginning to think so. other nutrients in the diet also what we eat and how we feel. gut but the dark leafy greens
This is a relatively new area of helps to regulate inflammation, Research recently published seem to be particularly potent
research known as “nutritional which is linked to mood in the British Medical Journal when it comes to wellbeing.
psychiatry” and is part of the disorders.” This means that found that people who “They are great for brain
reason experts now refer to adding foods rich in omega-3 consumed higher amounts health and mood,” Leeming
the gut as our “second brain”. and omega-6 fatty acids — of ultra-processed foods says. “They contain folate,
There are more than 100 vegetable oils, nuts, seeds and such as ready meals, sugary fibre, plenty of polyphenols
trillion microbes — bacteria, oily fish — to your diet could cereals and fizzy drinks were and are linked to lower odds of
fungi and other microorganisms reduce inflammation, and in about 50 per cent more depression. Eating just over a
— living inside our intestines, turn help improve your mood. likely to develop anxiety and cup of cooked dark green leafy
in an ecosystem that’s referred A positive change in diet has 20 per cent more likely to veggies a day could keep your
to as the gut microbiome. These also been shown to improve experience depression. brain up to 11 years younger.”
minuscule critters play a critical symptoms of depression. In a It seems that if we look after
role in everything from helping randomised controlled trial at our gut, it will look after us. You should cocoa
your immune system to the University of Melbourne in With that in mind, what do It’s no great surprise that
function correctly, to whether 2017, participants with clinically the experts recommend we chocolate can make you happy,
we develop certain allergies. diagnosed depression were put on the menu? but it turns out that feeling can
That means our gut health can split into two groups. The first, last beyond your final bite —
have a big impact on our with the help of a nutritionist, Add some fizz though the higher the cocoa
physical health. adopted a Mediterranean-style Kefir is a sour and sometimes content the better.
But mounting evidence diet — known for its emphasis fizzy fermented milk drink “Just two squares of 85 per
shows your gut microbes could on plants and olive oil. that’s full of good bacteria. It cent dark chocolate a day was
affect your mental health too. is prepared by inoculating the found to improve participants’
How? Well, the gut and the milk of cows, goats or sheep mood and their diversity of
brain are in communication with kefir grains, to produce gut bacteria,” Leeming says.
with each other via something a thin yoghurt. “Researchers found links
called the gut-brain axis. This “Drinking two glasses of kefir between their mood and certain
communication runs both ways a day has been shown to change bacteria types, suggesting that
— and scientists believe that, parts of the brain that handle part of chocolate’s influence on
in the same way that nerves emotions, and the participants your mood could be through
before a big event can make were better able to pick up your gut microbiome. Dark
your stomach squirm, what you on the emotions of others,” chocolate is surprisingly high
eat can trigger brain chemicals says Dr Emily Leeming, a in both fibre and a group of
that influence your mood. microbiome scientist whose antioxidants called polyphenols,
“Nutrients from food book, Genius Gut, is out in July. both of which feed your gut
serve as building blocks for She adds: “Eating plenty bacteria.” Time to reach for the
neurotransmitters, the of fermented foods may also expensive stuff.

46 • The Sunday Times Magazine


Fibre, fibre and more fibre
We often worry about how
Evidence shows that what you All oiled up
As well as having anti-
much protein we’re getting eat can trigger brain chemicals inflammatory properties —
but data shows we tend to have which help to protect us
that covered. In fact, we should Ŋü¾ŊϰÿěŽŏãěÙãϰũĢŏľϰęĢĢß against disease — olive oil may
really be focusing on our fibre also have the ability to lift our
intake — most Brits eat about mood, studies suggest, perhaps
20g a day, but the guidelines building blocks for hormones neurotransmitters, such as due to its high concentration
recommend 30g and some such as serotonin as well as serotonin and dopamine, which of polyphenols. Just make sure
experts say an aim of 50g would different types of fibre that are are critical for mood regulation.” to add extra virgin to your
be most beneficial for gut beneficial for our gut microbes.” Sources include walnuts, chia salad or cooking, as refined
health. Fibre feeds our good Legumes — soybeans, seeds, salmon and mackerel. olive oil is stripped of its
ILLUSTRATIONS BY ROB FLOWERS FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE

gut microbes, helping them to chickpeas, peanuts and lentils beneficial components.
do their job in maintaining our — are one of the highest And breathe
health. But it can do more than sources of dietary fibre and Your gut is impacted not just by Join the fast crowd
that. “For every 5g of fibre, a delicious way to support what you eat but by how you eat A recent study by King’s
there’s a 5 per cent associated your gut microbiome. it. Lisa Macfarlane, co-founder College London found that
decrease in the risk of of the health company The Gut eating within a ten-hour
depression,” Leeming says. Fat is good Stuff, explains: “Something we window, and therefore fasting
Dr Rupy Aujla, who’s behind Need another reason to eat advocate for, beyond diet, is for fourteen hours each day,
the podcast The Doctor’s more oily fish? “Omega-3 fatty putting your body in ‘rest and is associated with better
Kitchen, lives life by this mantra. acids play a role in the structure digest’ mode instead of eating mood, better sleep, more
“I call it BBGS — beans, berries, and function of cell membranes on the go. Try taking three deep energy and less hunger. This
greens and seeds, and I try to in the brain,” the nutritionist breaths before you eat — it’s is easier than it sounds:
get them into my diet every 24 Rhiannon Lambert says. proven that digestion happens it would mean, for example,
hours. They’re nutrient-dense “They are involved in the more effectively when eating having your first bite at 9am
ingredients that provide production and signalling of in a relaxed and calm state.” and your last by 7pm n

The Sunday Times Magazine • 47


He was absolutely perfect.
Until he left…

‘Wonderful’
MARIAN
KEYES

‘So warm
and kind’
FERN
BRITTON

‘Compelling
family drama’
VERONICA
HENRY

The uplifting new story of fresh starts and second chances


from the Sunday Times bestselling author

Subject to availability. Selected stores only.


F I TNE S S

Seven realistic fitness goals


No need to aim for Adonis — this is how to be just fit enough, by Tom Ward

quick browse of the

A
#FitTok hashtag
reveals couples lifting
one another overhead,
mums sprinting with
pushchairs in tow
and influencers so
bereft of body fat that
it’s a wonder they
make it from one
room to another
without needing to sit down.
Our obsession with
maximum fitness can make the
average gymgoer feel hopeless.
It doesn’t have to be all or
nothing, however. Try these
achievable fitness goals.

Find a diet that works


Trendy diets are often extreme,
but that’s not going to help
It needn’t be all or nothing. You ParkRun — a weekly group
5k — is a great place to start.
you sustain a healthy lifestyle. don’t have to do a Russ Cook “Aim for three 20-minute
“As a general benchmark training runs a week,” says
your diet should consist of and run the length of Africa Fran Bungay, a triathlete and
20-30 per cent fat, 40-50 per head coach at the Training
cent carbs and 25-30 per cent Today fitness app. “Alternating
protein,” says Farren Morgan, guide your body back to the like you’re closing a car door a minute running with a minute
a military fitness coach and starting position.” with your bum as you slowly walking is fine to begin with.
founder of the Tactical Athlete lower the barbell to the ground.” Once you can run for 20
training programme. Get this Master the deadlift minutes, try to push for 30.”
right, and drink three litres This is a compound move, Banish back pain
of water a day, and your body meaning it engages multiple “Spending all day at a desk Make the gym a habit
should adapt quickly. You muscle groups, builds muscle can lead to tight hips, which Studies have found that activity
needn’t be draconian — 80:20 and burns fat, and serves as a may then lead to pain in the trackers can help people
is a good ratio for healthy foods useful marker for general fitness. lower back and shoulders,” develop healthy routines over
versus indulgent ones. How to begin? “Pick a barbell Clift says. “Yoga and Pilates the long term — and that it
weight you can lift easily while can help, as well as taking takes about 66 days to form
Start squatting keeping your back straight, then regular breaks or investing a lasting habit. Morgan
Squats help to strengthen your stand with your feet shoulder- in a standing desk.” recommends the TrueCoach
back and core, and will torch width apart, the barbell laid out You can also try the knee app to track your goals and
calories. “Stand with your feet in front of you,” says Rowan twist. Lie on your back and receive personalised feedback.
shoulder-width apart, toes Clift, training specialist at the bring your knees up to your
pointed forward,” Morgan Freeletics workout app. “Bend chest, before slowly lowering Beat fitness-class anxiety
advises. “Bend your knees, at the hips and take a shoulder- them to the left and to the Terrified to try that HIIT
sinking into your hips as if width grip on the bar. Push your right while keeping your session? Use the ClassPass app
you’re sitting on an invisible heels into the mat as you hinge back flat on the floor. to book fitness classes without
box. Keep your chest and at the hips to stand, keeping having to commit to a full
chin up, back straight. Go as your chest up and your arms Run a 5k membership. Spin classes are
GETTY IMAGES

low as you can, keeping your and back straight to avoid injury. You don’t have to do a Russ a good place to start: no one
thighs parallel to the ground. Squeeze your stomach at the Cook and run the length of knows how low or high you’ve
Push through your heels to top, then push your hips back Africa. Training for your local set your resistance n

The Sunday Times Magazine • 49


The Enyaq’s
dashboard shows
its active cruise
control, which
keeps it a set
distance from the
car in front to avoid
energy-sapping
braking and
acceleration

D R I V I N G Nick Rufford l

Bare feet and no braking: how


to max the miles in your EV
knows better than anyone how Enyaq is a big-value family bus. and starting — during city
REVIEW to get most spark for your buck.
Gerdes, from Tennessee,
My coupé version has a slightly
more slippery shape than the
driving, for example. When
you’re cruising it drains the

SKODA ENYAQ recently set a new record by


driving 2,835 miles from coast
to coast across America in a
SUV Enyaq, giving it improved
aerodynamics and a few extra
miles of range from the 82kWh
batteries faster. This is because
each time you lift off the
throttle the car slows down
battery-powered Porsche and battery, bringing the official sharply and needs a wasteful
stopping for only two and a half total up to 339. On the basis of shove to get it back up to speed.
t’s a sunny morning and hours in total to charge it. The past experience with electric “It’s great that electric cars

I
I’m bowling along the M25 journey cost him just £56 in cars, I reckon the true range is have regenerative braking,”
with a bootful of clobber electricity. Proof, he says, that about two thirds of this, or 226 says Gerdes, 61. “It’s bad that
including folding chairs electric cars can handle long miles. I need to cover 274 to get people think it’s the be all and
and a tent, plus three distances if driven correctly. me to Bournemouth and back. end all of fuel saving, as it’s not.”
passengers. I’m also driving I have chosen a day when I’ve been driving electric cars I therefore switched out of
in bare feet. I’m not on the temperature is 10C, the on and off for a while now, and B mode — highest recuperation
my way to a hippy festival, UK annual average, to avoid one mistake I’ve been making, — into D mode and selected
but I am trying to prove swaying the outcome of the according to Gerdes, is to use the lowest level.
that green is good by experiment (batteries are maximum regen (regeneration Gerdes advises using
“hypermiling” my way to temperature-sensitive). For is the amount of energy an something called active cruise
the south coast — squeezing the extra thrift I’ve chosen a electric car recovers when it control on the motorway.
most possible miles out of a cut-price car — a Skoda Enyaq slows down). The common This is a system by which the
single charge of an electric car. iV 80. With plenty of room for perception is that selecting car detects its distance from
I’ve taken some tips from front and backseat passengers the highest level of regen saves other traffic and adjusts its
Wayne Gerdes, the world and a boot large enough for a energy. This, Gerdes says, is speed to avoid energy-sapping
champion hypermiler, who mountain of beach gear, the true only when you’re stopping acceleration and braking. On

50 • The Sunday Times Magazine


Five tips from 1 Use active cruise noticeable increase in 4 Use a “little but
control to stay a consumption, whether often” approach to
the king of steady distance from it’s petrol, diesel, charging. Batteries
COLLECTORS’
hypermilers the vehicle ahead. hydrogen or electric.” charge best between CLASSICS
“There are usually about 5 and 35 per
three or four 3 Anticipate rather cent, so keep within Fiat X1/9
Wayne Gerdes, settings: choose the than brake so you that sweet spot when
a nuclear engineer softest acceleration slow down gradually. you can. If that’s too
turned fuel-economy and deceleration,” “Mechanical braking time-consuming, try
guru, coined the term Gerdes says. loses kinetic energy to keep to 50 per cent.
“hypermiling” in 2004 as heat. Regenerative
to describe driving 2 Limit your top braking also loses 5 Heat the battery
to cover the most speed. “Speed kills energy by turning it and cabin while the
miles for the least fuel economy, and the from kinetic to car is plugged into
amount of fuel. He increase in electricity chemical (in the the mains at home
holds six Guinness or fuel consumption is battery) then back before you set off. By
World Records for fuel not a straight line — again. Learn to glide warming the battery Before the X1/9, Italian
economy, including it’s more geometric. and make use of to its ideal operating sports cars were driven by
crossing the US on the Between 60 and aerodynamic drag temperature you’ll get people on their way to the
shortest charge time. 70mph there is a from the tyres.” more miles of range. beach or the bistro. Only
the jet set could afford the
likes of the Lamborghini
Miura and Ferrari Dino.
top of this he recommends range-o-meter is showing 160 applied, of course, had I been Then Fiat breezed into
limiting the top speed to reduce miles used when in fact I’ve driving an ICE car. the 1976 Earls Court Motor
friction. I stay within what covered only 137 — a 17 per cent I arrived home with 47 miles Show with a car that
seems like a reasonable 65mph. discrepancy. This is in spite of in the “tank” — proof, I hope, changed everything. Its
The bare feet thing may be my careful driving. that without the top-up I would cuneiform contours took
Gerdes being eccentric. He I park at the beach, noting have completed the journey. inspiration from the
insists that driving without that, even if I had wanted one, Gerdes’s advice had undoubtedly powerboats that cruised
shoes or socks gives better there is no charger in the improved my driving — and the Italian lakes. It had
sensitivity and pedal control. beach car park. Chargers saved money. The cost of the pop-up headlights and
The morning wears on and the seldom seem to be where you return trip in electricity was a detachable roof. Yet it
traffic is kind. Then suddenly it’s need them. So it was buckets less than £20, including the cost less than £3,000.
not. As three lanes merge into and spades and a day on the motorway “splash and dash” With a 1.3-litre engine and
two where the M27 meets the windy beach until a minor — a third or less than what I’d four-speed gearbox, the
A31, there’s an enormous sandstorm sends us scurrying have spent on petrol or diesel. X1/9 was hardly brimming
tailback. My heart sinks, but back to the car. In their defence, electric cars with power, but weighing
that’s a dread instilled from Mysteriously, while it was have advanced hugely in a in at about 900kg it was
a lifetime of driving internal stationary, the range dropped relatively short time. It’s only 12 a hoot to drive. The key to
combustion engine (ICE) cars, to 149 miles, leaving only the years since Elon Musk launched its excellent handling was
which once guzzled fuel slimmest of margins to get his Tesla Model S, which fired that Fiat’s engineers had
whether you were moving or home. Would a lower maximum the starting gun for the modern positioned the transverse
not. Jams are still irksome in an speed help conserve energy? electric car era. Since then their (sideways-mounted) engine
electric car but at least the It did. I stuck rigidly to 55mph, range and capability has come in the centre of the vehicle,
charge meter wasn’t dropping. ignoring complaints from on in leaps and bounds. It’s also giving it ideal weight
As I creep along I ponder the the passenger seats, and, true to say that recently the pace distribution. This also
two most common complaints thankfully, the range-o-meter of development has slowed. created space to store the
from readers about electric ticked down to match almost Manufacturers have found they hard top under the bonnet
cars: first their price — at least exactly the miles covered. are reaching the upper limits — although if you were in
of present battery technology. Milton Keynes, not Milan,
Skoda’s newest version of the there was little point trying
I reckon my car’s true range is Enyaq, priced from £44,485,
can manage 15 miles more than
to get a Mediterranean tan.
Sadly in 1982 Fiat decided
226 miles. I need to cover 274 to the older version I was driving. there was no place in its
That’s an improvement but no sensible line-up for the
get to Bournemouth and back game-changer. bohemian X1/9, and handed
These diminishing returns production to Bertone, the
offer one consolation: used design company that made
a fifth more than their ICE I might have made it — just electric cars are becoming the car’s body. Bertone
equivalents, and second their — but in the end range anxiety outdated less quickly and are continued to make X1/9s for
range, as measured by the got the better of me. I stopped starting to find a market. Enyaqs seven more years. Fiat’s
Worldwide Harmonised Light for a 15-minute charge, adding with perfectly respectable loss: our pick is the
Vehicle Test Procedure (WLTP). exactly 40 miles at a motorway range such as the one I drove Bertone-badged VS edition
Manufacturers defend these service station. Call me chicken are now available for less than with two-tone paint and
official figures saying that, by but no one wants to risk £25,000. For a family bus alloy wheels. Expect to pay
driving with care, it’s possible running out, especially on a that isn’t too shabby. At least from £5,000 to £15,000 n
to go the distance. But by the smart motorway with no hard electric motoring is getting By Nick Rufford
time I reach the south coast the shoulder. The same would have more affordable n

The Sunday Times Magazine • 51


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worked as both a bus and taxi
driver before setting up on his
own at home, making furniture.
His success taught me the
A L I F E I N THE D AY importance of hard work. Baba
only retired last year, aged 84.

Sayeeda Warsi We speak every day and he’s


still as sharp as a razor.
If I’m not sitting in the Lords
or writing, I’ll prepare for my
Politician and podcaster, 53 new podcast with David
Baddiel. Right now I’m also
interviewed a lot about racism
and Islamophobia, which seems
arsi was born in to have paralysed government.

W
Dewsbury, West It has become headlines again
Yorkshire. One of five because of the situation in the
daughters of Pakistani Middle East, but Michael Gove,
immigrants, she who recently announced a new
studied law at Leeds unit to gather intelligence and
University. The first Muslim identify extremist groups,
woman to be selected as seems to have a genuine issue
a Conservative candidate, with certain beliefs. I have
in 2005 she failed to win worked beside him in
the Dewsbury seat at the government and I know what
general election, but was he has proposed is dangerous
created a life peer, Baroness and divisive. He seems to find
Warsi, enabling her to it hard to say Gaza is occupied,
become a shadow minister. or even the word Palestine.
In 2014 she resigned from Unfortunately we have a weak
government over its policy prime minister. Rishi [Sunak]
on the Israel-Gaza conflict. is trying to survive but if he
She has a daughter from a doesn’t have the strength to
previous relationship and lead, he should call an election.
four stepchildren through her Leave with a level of dignity
marriage to the businessman and some principles intact.
Iftikhar Azam. She and Azam I always receive more
live in Wakefield. Islamophobic messages from
trolls on social media when
My plan was to semi-retire in moments like this happen. The
2024 and spend more time only positive of the current
with my husband, who runs a situation is that the issue is now
food-manufacturing company. at the centre of public debate.
I’m busier than ever, staying too Whoever arrives home first
many days in London at the we divorced I was reintroduced throws something together for
House of Lords and not enough to Iftikhar via a friend.
WORDS OF WISDOM supper. Chicken masala is a
with him in Yorkshire. If I wake I wasn’t sure we’d be a good Best advice I was given favourite. When I do get to sit
up at home our breakfast is match at first. From school I Stress and worry all you down with Iftikhar in the
usually Greek yoghurt, berries thought he was uptight, and he want but if it’s meant to evening we talk about where
and granola, or scrambled eggs. thought I argued all the time be, it will happen we might go on holiday. Last
Iftikhar was at the same and got into fights. But I agreed year we discovered an amazing
school as me. He was that really to meet because I wanted to Advice I’d give island in the Maldives. I only
awkward prefect who would show him I was successful and If you want to be a politician, learnt to swim just in time to try
report me to the headmaster a baroness, he had just been a understand why first scuba diving. After the general
and put me in detention. What smug prefect with a tight tie. It election, whenever that is, we
I didn’t know as a 16-year-old turned into something special. What I wish I’d known want to visit New Zealand.
is that he would become a Our blended family of five Bad times will pass and you When you have experienced
wonderful human being, my children ranges from 25 to 33. will get through it financial hardship, a loveless
second husband and the man We have four grandchildren as relationship and no security in
who would make me the well. All the kids have left home, life, when they finally do appear
happiest I have ever been. so mealtimes are a lot quieter. you value them. I feel incredibly
In 1990 I had an arranged Lunch might be smoked grateful every day n
marriage and, over time, became salmon, sushi or a sandwich. Interview by Jeremy Taylor.
miserable. We weren’t well I didn’t speak English when Warsi co-presents the
suited but back then you were I first went to primary school. podcast A Muslim & a Jew
expected to get on with it. After We were a poor family and Dad Go There with David Baddiel

58 • The Sunday Times Magazine

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