Professional Documents
Culture Documents
The Times - Magazine - 2804
The Times - Magazine - 2804
1933
staying in the capital ahead
of their FA Cup final against
Manchester City at Wembley
Stadium, which they won
3-0. The club has won the
trophy five times in its history
— but not since 1995.
28.04.2024
5 Matt Rudd
history? By Robert Verkaik
20 BBC BFFs
Rosamund Urwin meets Justin
The life in pictures of a 1980s
fishing village in the northeast
of England. By Chris Killip
The happiness diet. Plus,
seven realistic fitness goals
50 Driving
My week as a house husband Webb and Jeremy Bowen — 39 Table Talk How to max the miles in
BERTRAM WILSON / TIMES NEWSPAPERS LTD
who started at the Beeb on Mark Diacono‘s dukkah dishes, your EV. By Nick Rufford
6 Relative Values the same day 40 years ago Charlotte Ivers dines with the
The James frontman Tim Booth one per cent in Copenhagen, 58 A Life in the Day
and his wife, Kate Shela, 26 Sophie Grégoire Trudeau Will Lyons recommends rosés, The politician Sayeeda Warsi
a shamanic healer Canada’s former first lady on plus the best salad dressing
her split from Justin, being © Times Media Ltd, 2024. Published and
8 COVER Deadly secrets pals with Michelle Obama and 44 Farmer Clarkson licensed by Times Media Ltd, 1 London
Bridge Street, London SE1 9GF (020 7782
Was the Cambridge spy her reinvention as a wellness Planting, ploughing and 5000). Printed at Walstead Bicester Limited,
Anthony Blunt the most guru. By Louise Callaghan a plague of slugs Oxfordshire. Not to be sold separately
S
till think you’d be happier as a house to decide between a cripplingly expensive villa,
husband?” That was the question and Harriet a cripplingly expensive cottage and a cripplingly
had obviously been waiting for years to ask it. miserable tent, we inadvertently settled on a fourth
It was late on Friday afternoon and I’d been option. A holiday at home. And because Harriet
house husbanding all day. I’d done the has friends and hobbies, she immediately filled her
cooking and the cleaning and the tidying and non-holiday holiday with a level of social activity
the washing, all without complaint, hardly that would frighten a Kardashian. No problem,
ever muttering to myself, “Is a man’s work I said heroically. I’ll stay at home and run things.
never done?” Almost every day I’d had dinner I don’t want to brag but I got off to an excellent
ready for when she got in and, almost always, start. On Monday I painted the shed. On Tuesday
that dinner wasn’t just five microwaved tikka I cleaned the mould off the back of the bathroom
masalas and a naan. Move over, Nigella. There’s a new blinds. On Wednesday I hoovered the cutlery
domestic goddess in town. drawer. On Thursday I superglued Child C’s
Until that Friday afternoon. I was just unpulling my school shoes back together.
apron strings and looking forward to taking the weight On Friday I looked back over my domestic
off my feet for the first time all day. House done. Dinner endeavours with pride. Sure, the kids had spent most
on. Finished. Then I discovered a perfect set of muddy of the past 120 hours on screens eating crisps, but
footprints across a carpet I’d only just hoovered. I can’t be expected to do full-on parenting and
Then Child A asked if I’d washed the rugby kit he’ll full-on house husbanding, can I? There just aren’t
need in the morning. Then I found a half-finished enough hours in the day. But I’d done all the usual
bowl of yesterday’s cornflakes behind a potted housework and quite a lot of the housework
plant. That’s when I said, “For goodness sake,” and neither of us has time to do when we’re working.
Harriet, walking through the front door, smiled The house looked like an estate agent description.
knowingly and asked her question. So I said “Yes, actually” when Harriet asked.
A confession first. Once, a very long time ago, “I would be very happy as a house husband.”
I expressed a vague desire to be a stay-at-home And then, with a big smile, I got the vacuum
dad. I might even have said that I’d gladly swap cleaner out of the cupboard I’d just put it back into.
my fortnight of paternity leave for Harriet’s Don’t tell her, but I was lying. A week later we’re
nine months of maternity leave. Because, I’d both back at work and juggling. Shockingly, the house
reasoned after a difficult week at work, being is a tip again. There are crumbs in the cutlery drawer
the primary parent isn’t necessarily as stressful and Child C’s shoes have come unstuck again. The
as being the primary earner. clothes I washed last week need washing this week.
Obviously that was very stupid and wrong. I’d Unbelievable. At least Sisyphus got a view when he
escaped the depths of exhaustion Harriet endured reached the top of the hill.
in those early years because I could sleep in the office The simple and easy solution for families starting
and have a G&T on the commute. I never had to get out: one week on, one week off. House husband one
my cracked nipples out on a bus. Not once. How week, housewife the next. I’ll admit there are some
dare I even suggest that her grass was greener? stumbling blocks. Because it now takes two salaries
It’s something baby group dads might whisper to to pay a mortgage, you’d need both your employers
each other in pubs but never ever actually mean. to agree to 26 alternating weeks of annual leave on
Now, though? When the kids are toilet- full pay. Assuming they are absolutely fine with that,
trained and almost self-sufficient? That’s a though, think of the benefits. No one’s grass is greener
different question. Last week we were “on because it’s all the same grass. A change is as good as
holiday” and we didn’t go anywhere. Unable a rest. And no, it’s your week to do the washing-up n
CHARLIE CLIFT, ALAMY, GETTY IMAGES
On the topic of equality, the that a man makes. It’s still earnings, this figure was
GOOD UK’s gender pay gap has fallen
to 11.6 per cent, its lowest level
12p too little — though seven
years ago, when it became
12.8 per cent, so it’s progress.
PwC (96p v £1) and Greggs
his voice. We were both in relationships, but that initial When my parents first met him, they weren’t keen.
spark was the beginning of a 28-year love story. The
STRANGE He was a rock star — rock stars take drugs! — he was
gods had a plan for us. HABITS older than me. But within weeks my dad became the
Some months later I was in Malibu and I struck world’s biggest James fan. He knew the words to every
up a friendship with an English make-up artist. We Tim on Kate song, was always in the mosh pit at the gigs. He and
were having a beer one night and she said, “You really Her indigenous Tim loved each other dearly.
remind me of someone I know. It’s a man, I hope name in our Sadly, Dad died during the Covid pandemic. Tim and
you’re not offended. His name’s Tim Booth.” I just family is She I were stuck in LA, Mum was in London and Dad was
screamed. The next day I was in the shopping mall Who Turns the in hospital in Watford. That was awful. But an amazing
and James’s music came on the radio. It was ridiculous. Lights Out. She’ll nurse FaceTimed us and Mum while Dad was on the
I’m from a middle-class north London Jewish family; come into a ventilator, so we were all able to say goodbye. Dad had
Mum and Dad dreamt of me marrying an accountant room and dim made a living will and stipulated that Tim had to sing
or a doctor. Although my work had taken me away from the lights to his favourite James song, Sit Down: “I’ll sing myself to
that orthodox path, the idea of marriage scared the hell near darkness sleep/ A song from the darkest hour”. It was a beautiful
out of me. But I was fighting a losing battle. I’m turned no matter what moment, but it was hard. Dad died 15 minutes later.
on by a man’s brain and Tim is a secret boffin. Whether is happening Losing him changed something for us. We started to
it’s poetry, maths, quantum mechanics or Leeds United, really think about the idea of “home”. We’ve always
he is passionate. He was my sacred appointment. Kate on Tim lived a nomadic existence, but the realisation that
Right from the start we both understood that being He drinks home is within gave us a new sense of purpose. There
together would also mean being apart. Tim was in a kukicha tea and may be a time when we’ll want to settle down. When?
band, always touring, and I had my work, which took eats two boiled I don’t know. For now, we’ll just follow life’s compass n
me all over the world. We’re just about to enter a eggs every Interviews by Danny Scott.
summer where we won’t really see each other for over single day The new James album, Yummy, is out now. They tour
six months. But there’s also an intrinsic resilience built the UK from May 29. For more about Kate Shela’s
into our relationship that allows us to say goodbye. work, visit the360emergence.com
Tasty
Tastier
Tastiest
Spread deliciousness
In truth, Lindemans’s story is far from
unknown, although experts disagree on
how important a figure he was. In the UK
most military historians have little regard
for the impact of his treachery. The story is
very different in the Netherlands, whose
people suffered so terribly, and certainly in
the immediate aftermath of Market Garden
there were many senior figures who
regarded his betrayal as crucial. The point
everyone can agree on is that the Germans
did an unexpectedly brilliant job of British troops are
improvising a defence. taken prisoner
After a couple of years of following the by the Germans
archival trail, I found a secret report in during the Battle
the National Archives in Kew dating from of Arnhem —
1946 about a meeting between a British the Allies’ final
intelligence officer and Lindemans at the defeat of the war
prison in the Hague where he was being
held on treason charges. According to the OPERATION MARKET GARDEN
files, the officer discovered that Lindemans
and his wife were working for the Russians.
Lindemans then named leading communist The D-Day landings in June 1944 just half an hour, the antitank guns of
agents operating in key positions in the brought the Allies to the brink of Kampfgruppe Walther, a unit cobbled
West. Within days Lindemans was dead, victory. One final blow and the whole together by the German commanders,
supposedly by suicide — although there is Nazi carapace would come crashing ripped into the British column.
strong evidence he was the victim of a down. That blow was meant to be Sixty miles away, 20,000 British and
poisoning. (The Kremlin playbook hasn’t Operation Market Garden, the largest American paratroopers had landed and
changed very much over the years.) airborne operation in history: 40,000 marched to Arnhem and Nijmegen.
paratroopers and glider troops (Market) They too ran into unexpected
The second spy: who was “Josephine”? were to be dropped in the Netherlands resistance from the improvised 9th and
The Russian link was an unexpected twist to secure six bridges over the Rhine, 10th SS Panzer Divisions.
that led me to a separate file in Amsterdam, clearing a path for the tanks of XXX German reinforcements flooded in.
and a reference to another warning that Corps (Garden) to push into Germany. Bitter fighting ensued for three days,
the Germans had received about Market The brainchild of Field Marshal until the last paras at Arnhem
Garden. This second briefing was sent to Bernard Montgomery, it was a huge surrendered with the tanks of XXX
Berlin the day before the Allied airborne gamble. The marshy terrain of the Corps just ten miles away. The losses
assault by a spy codenamed Josephine. polders made for treacherous going. were devastating: Allied casualties
What was even more puzzling was that Above all, the air drop was at the limit amounted to more than 17,000.
it was clear that the accuracy of this of operational range and on a scale It was the last Allied defeat of the war
second warning was far greater than the never attempted before. British tanks and ensured that it would not be over
intelligence passed on by Lindemans. would have 48 hours to cover 64 miles by Christmas. It was to be the Russians
If I was surprised, the reaction from and link up with the 1st British Airborne who would win the race to Berlin,
British intelligence and Allied military Division, who were to land by glider redrawing the map of Europe and
planners at the time was something close and parachute around the town of paving the way for the Iron Curtain.
to panic. Who on earth was Josephine? It Arnhem and secure the last bridge over At Arnhem the Allies had expected
turned out that because of a bureaucratic the Rhine — immortalised in the 1977 little resistance, but were met by a
error the warning didn’t reach the German film A Bridge Too Far. German force that was resilient and
generals until the armada of Allied aircraft, At 2.30pm on Sunday, September 17, prepared. Was that just because they
carrying the first lift of paratroopers, had the tanks of the Irish Guards started were battle-hardened veterans or had
already crossed the Dutch border and so their advance towards Eindhoven. After Market Garden been betrayed?
those historians who were even aware of
it have dismissed its significance. Yet this
intelligence included a detailed order of
battle and strategic objectives.
Josephine even neutralised MI5’s own Nazis had a mole at the heart of the war were so trusted that they were read
double agents who had been sending effort. The British codebreakers of Bletchley verbatim by Hitler himself. Alfred Jodl,
deceptive messages to the Germans saying Park, alerted by the American Office of the German chief of staff, and Walter
that any airborne attack in the Netherlands Strategic Services, the forerunner to the Schellenberg, the head of the Nazi secret
would be a dummy run and the real target CIA, had been monitoring Agent Josephine service, also regarded Josephine as their top
was Scandinavia. On September 17 the for more than a year, since mid-1943, when source of Allied intelligence.
German high command issued a briefing an MI5 officer described her reports as “the The threat from Josephine was all too
to field commanders warning them of this. best illicit intelligence derived by the enemy real and MI5 handed the job of tracking her
The view from the British intelligence from this country which I have seen”. down to one of their top men, a rising star
establishment at the time was far from By late summer 1943 British intelligence who was already tipped to be director
sanguine. MI5 had assured the cabinet that had identified the German spymaster general — none other than Anthony Blunt.
there was not a single Nazi spy on British running Josephine as Karl Heinz Kraemer, Blunt’s investigations in 1943 were
shores who hadn’t been exposed and a lawyer operating out of the German supported by a cast of sub-agents, many of
ALAMY
arrested or turned. Now it appeared the embassy in Stockholm. Kraemer’s reports whom were his former lovers. Blunt, who ➤
Walter Schellenberg
Kraemer’s boss. He
received Josephine’s
Arnhem warning
late, but said it
helped Germany
understand the
Allies’ intentions
was gay, recruited them independently and dinner at the Reform Club and passed
ran them outside of MI5. He and his team across the table documents that seemed
chased a succession of leads that led to suggest a Russian link to Josephine. Falk
nowhere. But then at the end of the year records in his unpublished memoir that
there was an apparent breakthrough by Blunt became uncharacteristically angry,
MI6, the intelligence agency that runs insisting that there could be no such
a network of spies overseas. connection, before gathering up the papers,
As luck would have it, MI6’s man in warning Falk to say nothing and promising
Stockholm, Peter Falk, had befriended to investigate. There is no record that Blunt
Kraemer’s housekeeper earlier that year and did any such thing, nor that he made any
persuaded her to pass on intelligence. As report of what he had been told.
well as copying documents that she found Shortly afterwards Blunt was to identify
in his office, she managed to press the key to Josephine as a loose-lipped Swedish
Kraemer’s personal safe into a pat of butter. diplomat called Frank Cervell, to whom he
From the impression it made, Falk was able had been able to feed false intelligence: sure
to send measurements to London. By some enough, the flow of Josephine’s accurate
miracle the key they sent back fitted perfectly, and damaging material was stemmed. It
giving London a line deep into the mystery of looked as if Blunt had got his man. But then
Josephine. The problem was Kraemer himself a strange thing happened. As preparations
didn’t appear at all sure who Josephine was, began in earnest for the D-Day landings of
or where her information came from. June 1944, Josephine piped up again.
One tranche of papers was deemed so The German spy handler Karl
sensitive that Falk decided to fly back to Heinz Kraemer in prison in The D-Day deception
London to deliver the information in person. England after his arrest in D-Day, the British and American invasion
On December 23, 1943, he met Blunt for Germany in May 1945 of Nazi-occupied Europe, was one of the ➤
J
are like an old married couple.
The two BBC lifers — Webb is
the longest-serving presenter
on Radio 4’s Today programme
while Bowen is international
editor — have heard each
other’s anecdotes so often they
remember the punchlines, and
while they speak over and mock
each other, their teasing is
infused with affection.
The pair have been friends
since they met in 1984 on their
first day as graduate trainees at
the BBC, have whiled away
evenings together in the pubs of
W1A, live a road apart in south
London and Bowen even played accidental
matchmaker to Webb, introducing him to
his wife three decades ago. drunk in those days I think a relaxed
The journalists are celebrating 40 years approach to the news was good.”
at the corporation this month. Webb is 63 Newsroom culture has changed during
now, Bowen 64, but they still have an their careers. “I can remember someone
appetite for entering hostile territory: the chucking a typewriter at a colleague,” Webb
former with culture wars and the latter with recalls. “People smoked the whole time and
actual wars. In fact, BBC bosses seem so were drunk most afternoons.” That boozy
nervous about potential controversy — culture ended in the 1990s, Bowen says,
whether on trans issues or Gaza — that a pointing across the road to the Crown &
press officer is sent to supervise us. “Do Sceptre, a favourite BBC haunt. “It was
they really need a chaperone?” I ask her. She packed with everybody from the radio
laughs nervously. I think that means “yes”. newsroom at lunch, after the 6pm bulletin
We’re chatting in a café round the corner and after the 10pm. Some people would go
from Broadcasting House in Fitzrovia, to the pub three times a day. ”
central London. Neither has grown jaded. Webb was a reporter on Today in the late
Bowen still talks about the “privilege” of 1980s and recalls cabinet ministers and
reporting, while Webb has retained his bishops alike drinking whiskies in the green
sense of mischief — and he still sounds room with John Humphrys and Brian
bouncy at 6am. “I’m paid to sound cheerful Redhead when they came off air at 9am. He
[while] Jeremy is paid to crawl under barbed also once filed a piece after midnight and
wire and be shot at,” he says. “That’s how remembers showing it to the night editors:
our careers have diverged.” “As it played, they all toppled over sideways. breakfast TV presenter in history”) and
When they started at the BBC they were They were so pissed they couldn’t get to Bowen as co-host with Sophie Raworth of
in a group of eight trainees. Bowen recalls the end of a three-and-a-half-minute piece.” BBC Breakfast from 2000 to 2002 (videos
looking around the room and deciding that Those bosses and editors had mostly on YouTube show he looks happier being
Webb was the one he most wanted to have worked their way up from local papers; shot at). “Sophie used to kick me under the
a drink with; Webb says he was just glad Bowen and Webb were among the first desk when it was my turn to speak,” he says.
there was someone else who hadn’t been to wave of BBC journalists who had all been It did allow him a welcome break from
Oxbridge. Webb had studied at LSE, where to university. “It’s funny there are these chasing stories, though: “They [the
he wrote for the student newspaper The schemes to get people into the BBC who producers] think of you as an inflatable
Beaver, while Bowen, whose father Gareth aren’t graduates now, as it used to be the presenter doll that they can roll up and put
had been an editor for BBC Radio Wales, other way,” Bowen says. Webb adds: “That in a cupboard. They don’t give a damn what
had read history at UCL, where he was the generation of people we were you’re doing, as long as you turn up on
industriously avoided student journalism working under — they were extremely time.” Webb smiles in agreement: “If I ring
to spend more time in the pub. good at their jobs but [mostly] hadn’t gone up on my day off from Today, you can almost
Bowen recalls later being told by a to university. The greatest of them I worked hear the horror: ‘Why’s he calling us?’”
manager that he was — in modern parlance with.” He means Humphrys. Both want The answer, really, is that they are work
— a nepo baby. “He said, ‘We thought we more non-graduates at the BBC, with Webb obsessives. Webb has no hobbies and
would take a look at you because you were arguing that Today should again have a Bowen says that, while he likes wine and
Gareth’s boy, but we didn’t think you would presenter who hasn’t been to university. cooking, his life is his job and his family.
have a chance.’” The pair rose quickly through the ranks. Luckily both their partners work in similar
For Webb, his interview for his BBC Bowen’s first job overseas was as a radio fields: Bowen’s partner, Julia Williams —
traineeship was the only serious job correspondent in Geneva and he started with whom he has a daughter and son,
application he has done. “They asked me covering conflicts in 1989. After a stint as Mattie, 23, and Jack, 20 — was also a BBC
how I got briefed [on the news] in the a foreign correspondent, Webb became a journalist, while Webb’s wife, Sarah Gordon,
morning and I said I listened to the BBC News presenter in London. Both had is in advertising. They have three adult
headlines at the end of the World at One,” unhappy forays into breakfast TV: Webb as children: twins Martha and Sam, and Clara.
he says. “I’m not sure that would be the the main presenter on Breakfast News from The families live a street away from each
right answer now, but given they were all 1992 to 1997 (“I’m probably the worst other in Camberwell, southeast London. It
My trick is being knackered as hell.” So hats off to any woman who does it.” Gloria, and Peter Woods, the BBC
Today is becoming less formal and stuffy Bowen remembers those days too: “I still newsreader. Woods visited him just once,
— in part due to competition from news have nightmares about the 3am starts. when Webb was a baby. In his recent
podcasts, Webb says, but also due to People die at that time of the day.” memoir, The Gift of a Radio, he wrote about
a generational shift in presenters, with It is strange to hear a war correspondent his stepfather’s mental illness and the
Amol Rajan joining in 2021 and the former fearing death in his sleep. I ask if Bowen’s horrors of the Quaker boarding school that
Woman’s Hour host Emma Barnett the children have ever been scared of him he went to at 11 where, at the time he
latest addition to the roster. covering war. “I don’t think they are unduly attended, there was no hot water and where
Rajan and Webb initially had a “friendly worried because quite rightly they are always he says children were “tortured” by other
disagreement” about how to speak on air, confident I will come home,” he replies, but pupils. Yet some assume — with his perfect,
with Rajan saying that Webb’s “received then he starts talking about being shot in posh pronunciation — that he is the
pronunciation” was overused on Radio 4 the head and leg in Cairo in 2013: “The embodiment of “white male privilege”.
and Webb arguing that it is vital to be clear bloke next to me had the back of his head “I’m not a great fan of self-analysis or the
to be understood. “Amol doesn’t even like blown off. I had to have surgery to get the narcissism of the modern age. I think you
saying ‘good morning’ — he likes to say bullets out, so I called up Julia and said, ‘I’m have to deal with the cards you get and lots
‘hello’ — and people come up to me and OK.’ I did the ten [news bulletin] that night, of my cards were great, including my lovely
say, ‘I do like you on Today — you speak as I thought I’d had a bit of a tough day, mother,” he says. “But I think people are
properly,’” Webb says. “But Amol actually I might as well have something to show for more complex than the sight of them and
won this argument — it’s important that it.” Jack was 10 and Mattie 12 at the time and the sound of their voices might suggest.”
we have a range of voices. Mishal [Husain] Julia tried to make light of it. “Apparently Both have moments when they think that
and I speak the same way, but it’s not how they said, ‘Why are you joking about this?’” they can’t carry on. For Bowen, it’s when he
most people do. I was being overly sensitive He adds later that he once suffered a sets out on yet another trip to a war zone:
and we have now kissed and made up.” mugging in Camberwell — “a violent “I’ll be getting an early taxi, going down ➤
O
n October 7 Bowen was in Ukraine, responsible when the most likely cause was against him earlier this year after he said
but he left almost immediately for an errant rocket launch from Gaza. “I have “trans women, in other words males” in a
Israel and has spent most of the reported extensively from the Middle East debate on Today. About an hour before we
past six months there. He has only for years, so I’m very experienced in the meet, the director-general, Tim Davie, said
been into Gaza once in that time, region,” he responds. “I’ve written books in Westminster that Webb’s wording was
in an armoured personnel carrier about it. So I don’t mean to sound arrogant a “foot fault” and that the BBC has a duty
with the Israeli army. “This was but I’m confident in my journalism. This to be “nice” on this issue. This rap on the
only halfway through November, story is extra hard to cover partly because of knuckles has put Webb in diplomatic form.
but even then northern Gaza was the way that people twist what you say and “The director-general has spoken, so I don’t
a wasteland,” he says. “I’ve seen a lot of [a lack of ] access.” He adds that the BBC need to,” he says. “There are people who
destroyed towns but it was right up there was quick to correct the idea that the attack feel very strongly on both sides. We need to
with Aleppo after the Russians carpet- may have been carried out by Israel. be able to tell the truth but, as the director-
bombed it. But they did that in a couple of “It’s predictable how people who don’t general told MPs, we also need to be kind to
years; this had been done in a couple of like what we do seize on things like that,” he people and note that we are caught in the
weeks.” He accuses both the Israelis and the says. “People don’t want impartial reporting middle of shifting sands.”
Egyptians of “news management” by not — they want support, acknowledgment Although Webb and Bowen may get in
letting journalists in: “It is very hard to of their victimhood and cheerleading. We occasional trouble, they remain loyal to the
report on a story fairly when you don’t have don’t do that. For me, impartial means BBC. They both find people increasingly
access to a big part of it.” truthful. It doesn’t mean ‘on the one hand, ask, “What have they told you to say?” as
In the past Bowen has faced complaints on the other hand, therefore the truth lies though “shadowy figures” at the top of the
of bias against Israel in his coverage of the somewhere in between.’” corporation are taking a red pen to their
Middle East. Every word he utters about the Webb is also hyper-aware of nastiness scripts. “No one tells me what to report,”
conflict is scrutinised, but social media has online now. “We are much more available to Bowen says, adding that only once in his
added an extra dimension. Danny Cohen, be harangued than when we were starting career has an editor tried to change his
INTERVIEW BY
LOUISE CALLAGHAN
PORTRAIT BY
SASHA ONYSHCHENKO
T
OTHER, THAT’S
WHAT COUNTS”
he most startling political earthquake to and pulling up at the base of my skull. “Non, non, non, non, non,” she says in her
have hit Canada in nearly a decade came on She is remarkably happy to talk about warm, throaty voice, which carries a slight
August 2 last year in the form of matching most matters. We discuss meditation, French-Canadian inflection. “You know,
Instagram stories from the prime minister, lip liner and steamed hotdogs (they sound in some ways it’s boring for some people
the tousle-haired Justin Trudeau, and his revolting: she craved them during one of because we’ve always been truthful to each
wife, Sophie Grégoire Trudeau. her pregnancies). Though when I bring other. We don’t hold secrets … That’s not
For eight years, since Trudeau came to up the “break-up”, she winces. the dynamic we have. And let me be honest:
power in 2015, they had been the shiniest “You used the word break-up, right? in some ways I’m very proud of how we —
political couple in the western world — I don’t feel that way.” not how the world thinks of us — how we
absurdly good-looking, absurdly in love, “A conscious uncoupling?” I offer. navigate this. When we’re together and
with three beautiful children, a gender- “That’s the only expression that exists we look at each other, that’s what counts.”
equal cabinet and liberal, feminist policies. that’s close enough,” she says. “I wish To make that work, she says, she has had
Though they had both spoken out about I could come up with a new, a new …” She to concentrate on ignoring what others
navigating ups and downs in their thinks for a bit. “We don’t have to dramatise, think and considering what is best for them
relationship, their united, glossy front end abruptly, break relationships in order as a family; making hard decisions rather
seemed immutable. to restructure our lives and our minds. And than just muddling on.
Now that fairytale was ending after 18 something changed, yes, something broke; “It’s not one abrupt change — it’s been
years of marriage. “As always, we remain I am not sure that’s how I mean it.” years,” she says.
a close family with deep love and respect for I ask if there was a sudden change in Clearly a new term is needed to describe
each other and for everything we have built the relationship. this elastic, re-forming, definitely-not-a-
and will continue to build,” the two wrote. break-up temporal and physical marital
In his post, Trudeau, 52, said they had change. I ask whether — given that we
separated after “many meaningful and agree such a term sounds better in
difficult conversations”. Soon, the media French — évolution might be better than
reported that Grégoire Trudeau, 49, was conscious uncoupling.
in a relationship with an extremely “L’évolution amoureuse?” Grégoire
dashing paediatric surgeon. Trudeau suggests.
When I meet her in Ottawa on a spring Perfect. Yet while she and Trudeau are,
morning at a restaurant called Arlo, where publicly at least, handling their separation
she had her 48th birthday party (there was with considerable magnanimity, it has been
dancing) and where the owner’s daughter the source of relentless intrigue in Canada
calls her “Auntie Sophie”, I am expecting and for the couple’s fans across the world.
a gaggle of publicists primed to stop me Many will, no doubt, be thrilled that she is
asking about the collapse of her marriage. now publishing a book, written before the
Instead I find her sitting on a bar stool, separation, called — incredibly — Closer
chatting to the make-up artist. She gives Together. It is a memoir-cum-self-help work
me a hug and within ten minutes has fixed about the necessity of deep connection
my cricked neck by standing behind me that mixes reflections on her own life —
collective growth”. Clearly, it’s Grégoire love each other, we spend time together. It’s life: zipping around town on her surfskate
Trudeau’s slice of the Goop pie, a launchpad organic — you know, the kids all sleeping (a kind of longboard) or her Vespa. I ask
out of the life of an unofficial first lady (the together one night, that’s fine. And I have a whether people recognise her at home in
title doesn’t exist in Canada) and into the little space for me and sometimes the kids Ottawa. “There’s not even a double-take,”
WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO ARLO RESTAURANT OTTAWA. THESE PAGES: GETTY IMAGES, REX
multibillion-pound wellness universe come there, and we’re just so close to each she says, deadpan. In her telling, she has
where she can deliver insights about how other that we do it organically,” she says. tried to give their children a normal and
“as much as we are thinking beings, we are “And it feels good, it feels natural. It doesn’t as private a life as possible.
feeling and sensing beings at our core”, and feel forced. It feels heartwarming.” But what about the glossy Instagram
use a solar eclipse to lead yoga classes that The couple have signed a formal posts with her perfect hair, glowing skin
promise to bring attendees “closer together separation agreement and, given that and adorable offspring?
as Mother Nature will show us the beauty Trudeau is constantly working and “First of all, no life is perfect,” she says.
of darkness”. travelling (he has to call an election before “People may have a perception of one’s life
October 2025) the majority of childcare and we have to be very careful about how
S
o what is life outside the presumably falls on her. Now, for the we think we know public personalities. And
prime ministerial bubble first time since quitting her job as a TV I don’t see myself as a public personality,
like? Over a citrus salad journalist when her children were young, just that there’s a public aspect to my life.
and a shrimp cocktail, she she is going back to work — hosting yoga But I’m not raising my kids under the
cheerfully explains that retreats, continuing her mental health spotlight. We go to the park and I’m in my
while she no longer has activism and promoting her book. sweatpants, we run errands and we roll in
a protection detail nor If anything, her schedule is ramping the grass. And that’s my life. Then there is
governmental duties, her up. Canada is not the United States and this other little part that’s quite unique.”
life hasn’t really changed that much since traditionally the role of the prime minister’s And another part, where she’s out
the separation. She lives in a “little” flat not spouse isn’t the all-consuming endeavour promoting a book that goes into personal ➤
G
régoire Trudeau has — and took part in a Vogue photoshoot Michelle Obama, who described Grégoire
never exactly been where they looked as if they were on the Trudeau as her “soulmate”. They met
intensely private. As an on official engagements and were
only child growing up photographed laughing on the White
in a wealthy French- Grégoire Trudeau with her father c 1978. House lawn, as well as going out for
speaking family in Below: showing off her yoga moves lunch and shopping in Toronto.
Montreal (her father, “She’s funny. She has a great sense of
Jean Grégoire, was a humour and also very deep values that
stockbroker, her mother, Estelle, a nurse), I respect,” Grégoire Trudeau says.
she desperately wanted to be seen and As well as the pressures of being
appreciated by her parents and to make married to a head of state, there was the
friends. A mention of her childhood is additional life wrinkle of half the women
enough to bring her to the brink of tears. in the world thirsting after her husband.
“I remember as a child — and it makes Trudeau was dubbed a “smoking-hot
me emotional — I remember being so close syrupy fox” by E! Online and “so hot”
to life that I … [would always think] I want by the American actress Alyssa Milano.
to know more. Let me smell you, let me Photographs of him topless set the
taste you, let me feel you, let me see what internet reaching for fans.
I can know about myself when I’m with I ask Grégoire Trudeau about it,
you,” she says. “It’s a deep need, a longing expecting a diatribe about knowing
that I’ve felt for ever.” yourself. Instead she just screws up her
Though she was close to her parents, nose. “I think it’s ridiculous,” she says.
she worried about their (at times stormy) “It makes me laugh. I didn’t pay attention
relationship and felt lonely. As a teenager, to it for more than half a second.”
she developed bulimia. When she finally In recent years, the couple hadn’t been
asked for help, she had therapy and began seen out together so much and Trudeau
to recover. After university in Montreal, played less on his image as a family man. In
where she studied communications, she his 2014 memoir he wrote: “Our marriage
worked her way up as a TV journalist, isn’t perfect, and we have had difficult ups
writing the ticker tapes that go at the and downs.”
bottom of the screen before becoming a His own parents had met when his father,
presenter on eTalk, a Canadian channel. Pierre, was 47 and his mother, Margaret,
Then one day when Grégoire Trudeau was 18. Pierre served two terms as prime
was 27, she went to at a fundraising event in minister in Canada and had a famously
Montreal and reconnected with her future awful divorce in his final months in office.
husband, who was studying engineering at Margaret — who was eventually diagnosed
the time. She had known him as a child with bipolar disorder — later wrote that
through her friendship with his younger she’d had a number of affairs, including
brother, Michel, a school friend who died with Jack Nicholson.
in an avalanche when he was 23. Still, she was at her ex-husband’s
Now, as adults, she and Justin flirted deathbed when he passed away in 2000.
with a “sense of tender familiarity in the She later said: “Just because our marriage
air”. At least, that’s how it felt for her. ended didn’t mean the love stopped.”
The next day she emailed him, and was Trudeau Junior’s split is playing out under
disappointed when he didn’t get back to a stronger spotlight. Everyone I speak to in
her. When they bumped into each other Ottawa has an opinion on it, particularly
on the street in Montreal later that year, on the rumours that Grégoire Trudeau had
she was still annoyed enough that when started dating the aforementioned surgeon
he asked for her number, she said that if some time before the split was announced.
he really wanted it, he could find it. In February she was pictured going out for
When
the boat
comes in
In the 1980s Chris Killip began
photographing the young men
of Skinningrove, a fishing village
near Middlesbrough. Four
years after his death, the full
collection is being published
32 • The Sunday Times Magazine
The Sunday Times Magazine • 33
W
hen the photographer
Chris Killip first pitched up in
Skinningrove, a remote fishing
village in northeast England
between Middlesbrough and
Whitby, in 1982, he didn’t get
the warmest of welcomes.
“Like a lot of tight-knit fishing
communities, it could be hostile
to strangers,” he recalled.
Killip, who had grown up
on the Isle of Man, gained
the locals’ trust after befriending
a young fisherman called Leslie
Holliday, or “Leso”. “Leso and
I never talked about what I was
doing there, but when someone
questioned my presence, he
would intercede and vouch for
me with, ‘He’s OK.’ ” In 1986
Leso drowned at sea, aged 26.
The images Killip took of the
fishermen between 1982 and
1984 helped seal his reputation
as one of Britain’s greatest
documentary photographers.
In 1994 he became a professor
of photography at Harvard
University and was department
chairman from 1994 to 1998.
Before he died aged 74 in
2020, Killip returned to
Skinningrove for the first time
in 30 years. “I was shocked by
how it had changed, as only one
boat was still fishing. The place
seemed like a pale reflection of
its former self,” he said n
Left: a mother
with her baby in
a pram looks out
to sea beside a
cartful of crabs
Bever, standing,
basks in the early
morning sunlight
after a run-in with
police following
a fight in a pub
Spring
charms
“
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TABLE TALK
kah
duk
with
o do
at t
Wh
n earthy Egyptian
A
spice blend, dukkah
is an elevating friend
to have to hand if you
want to bring instant
character and texture
to a dish. Making your
own is easy. Dry-fry
100g hazelnuts,
2 tablespoons of
coriander seeds,
2 tablespoons of cumin seeds,
3 tablespoons of sesame seeds
and a pinch of fennel seeds for
2-3 min, shaking the pan once
in a while until just fragrant.
Use a pestle and mortar or food
processor to reduce to a coarse
mix, then season. It is brilliantly
adaptable: try adding 1 teaspoon
of nigella, upping the fennel to
2 tablespoons, stirring in
1 tablespoon of dried oregano,
or adding chilli flakes. Swapping
the hazelnuts for walnuts or
pistachios makes it differently • Salt and black pepper dukkah and serve with the • 1 litre vegetable stock
delicious. It will stay fresh in a • 4 eggs, at room temperature eggs, a little extra dukkah • A good sprig of fresh
sealed container for 7-10 days. • 4 tbsp dukkah and salt and pepper. thyme, leaves only
• 4 tbsp dukkah
Asparagus, boiled eggs 1 Heat the oven to 200C fan/ Celeriac and leek soup • 100ml double cream,
and dukkah gas 7 and bring a pan of This is one of my favourite plus a little to serve
As much as I love boiled eggs water to the boil. soups for winter and spring, • 2 tsp chilli oil (optional)
and soldiers, in spring I want beautifully embellished by • Nutmeg
asparagus in place of the toast. 2 Mix the asparagus with dukkah’s welcome texture. It
Either way, a dash of dukkah the olive oil to lightly coat also doubles up the sweetness 1 In a large, heavy-bottomed
works wonders. The extra each stalk and sprinkle with of the leeks and the celeriac’s pan over a low/moderate
nuttiness that roasting gives salt and pepper. earthiness. By all means try heat, cook the onion and
the asparagus is so good, but making this with the same leeks in the olive oil for
you can simmer it for a few 3 Place in a single layer on weight of parsnips, Jerusalem 10-15 min until softened,
minutes in the egg water if a roasting tray and roast for artichokes or potatoes in stirring occasionally.
you prefer. Usually with about 10 min, until tender. place of the celeriac.
asparagus, I gently bend 2 Add the celeriac, garlic
the base until the tough 4 While the asparagus is Ingredients and ½ teaspoon salt, cook for
end snaps off, but here I use cooking, lower the eggs (Serves 4) 5 min, then add the stock and
the base as the handle so into the water and simmer • 1 onion, sliced thyme and simmer for 15-20
I can dip into the yolk easily. for 4-5 min to give a runny • 2 leeks, thinly sliced min, stirring occasionally,
yolk. Lift from the water • 3 tbsp olive oil until the celeriac is tender.
Ingredients and place in eggcups. • 400g celeriac, peeled
(Serves 2) and cut into 2cm pieces 3 Blend until smooth, adding
• 20 asparagus spears 5 Remove the asparagus from • 3 garlic cloves, chopped the cream as well as salt and
• 2 tbsp olive oil the oven, sprinkle with half the • Salt and black pepper pepper to taste.
OUR
PICK
Briannas
Ocado, 355ml, £4.60
Almost as good as
my own! This is well
balanced but packed
with honey and mustard
flavour. Bravo 5/5
Pizza Express
Tesco, 235ml, £2.50
Has a slightly peppery
spice to it — the honey
comes afterwards. Very
thick, would drown a
salad, but I’d love it
with flatbread 4/5
Mary Berry’s
Ocado, 235ml, £3.30
No mustard here —
this is Mary’s hybrid
dressing, made with
4 Serve scattered with • 90g butter allow it to rest for 5-10 min, white wine vinegar. It
dukkah, swirled with a • 330ml double cream until the temperature is needs a good shake 3/5
little cream and chilli oil • Sea salt below 110C.
and dusted with a generous • 5 tbsp dukkah, plus a little Waitrose
scratch of nutmeg. extra to serve 3 Add a very generous pinch 150ml, £1.30 Very thin,
• Chilli flakes (optional) of salt to the fudge and beat very vinegary and I can’t
Dukkah fudge with a wooden spoon as really taste mustard or
This may be my favourite 1 Line a baking dish (about quickly as you can: it will cool honey. Careful when you
fudge, with the spices and 20cm x 18cm) with baking and thicken, and will gradually pour — it rushes out 2/5
salt at least trying to keep the parchment. Warm the sugar, come away from the pan. At
richness and sweetness in golden syrup, butter and this point, stir in the dukkah. Sainsbury’s
check. Three elements are cream in a medium-sized 150ml, £1.20 Bright
crucial: the temperatures; pan — it should be no more 4 Spoon the fudge into the yellow owing to the
stirring vigorously to ensure than a third full — over a low baking dish and smooth with addition of turmeric.
a beautifully smooth texture; heat, stirring frequently to a palette knife as best you can. The sharpness hits the
and allowing the fudge to dissolve the sugar. back of your throat 2/5
completely cool out of the 5 After an hour or so, cut it
fridge as this prevents it 2 Turn the heat up to into squares but don’t lift the M&S
becoming tacky. If you don’t medium-high and bring pieces out: leave it for at least Ocado, 235ml, £2.30
eat it all in a weekend, this to the boil. Put a sugar 3 hours to set properly. When Thick and gloopy — a
will keep for a fortnight in thermometer in the pan. Keep set, lift it out and scatter with sign of added stabilisers
a sealed container and at the mix bubbling, stirring more sea salt, chilli flakes and and gum. Has a garlic
least twice that in the fridge. occasionally to ensure the a little dukkah if you fancy n kick but I still wouldn’t
MARK DIACONO
GERANIUM
COPENHAGEN
Y
you’re anyone special,
or that you’re better
than others. That’s the
first rule for a happy
life in Denmark. It’s
a concept they call
Janteloven: the idea
that a good Danish
citizen shouldn’t
flaunt too much
individuality, wealth or success.
This, naturally, inspires two
thoughts in the mind of the
honest Brit. 1) Oh, you Scandis
think you’re better than me,
do you, with your humility and
generous welfare state? And 2)
OK. Then why are there so many
restaurants in Copenhagen
where you won’t escape for
less than £500 a head? and are back on the plane by springy potato waffle that you
Well, primarily it’s Noma’s evening, as a waiter here tells ************************************** smear with sour cream and
fault. Twenty years of having the me one table did. Try to get a
THE DAMAGE pickled walnut leaves. As you rip
**************************************
world’s best restaurant in town table at Geranium and you’ll into the thing, you could almost
Spring universe menu £481
pulls other top chefs in. But fast be disabused of any notion be breaking bread with your
according to the jet-set set, that Scandi cooking is losing Wine and juice pairing £263 socialist brothers, but for the
Noma is now past its prime. its supremacy. The global fact you’re spooning a fat pot of
Service charge
Plus it’s about to reinvent itself super-rich are still flooding in. gold caviar on top.
(optional) £75
as an even more po-faced food Yet there’s an element of “Some places want to make
laboratory. Everyone who is Scandinavian understatement ************************************** a carrot taste like a radish,” the
anyone — or at least whose bank here. That might seem like a Total per person £819 co-owner Soren Ledet, who
account says they might be — deranged thing to say when used to work at Noma, tells me.
is going to Geranium instead. your only option is an 18-course “We want to make it taste like
Which brings me to the tasting menu for £481, but it’s the best carrot you ever ate.”
second factor at play: these true: the place named best beige and pale wood. To a He’s done it: a carrot sorbet
restaurants aren’t for locals. On restaurant in the world in 2022 British eye, there’s something with a white chocolate panna
the night I eat there, only two of is located on the top floor of of the regional hotel conference cotta-type cream, an intricate
the twelve tables are populated an innocuous office block, room about it. crystallised carrot cutout
by Danes. The locals I speak to dumped in the middle of a grey For some courses they have perched on top like a stained-
laugh at the very idea of going. car park, sandwiched alongside you eating with your hands. glass window. Eating it makes
No, these places are for the the national football stadium A spongy buttermilk bread me want to cry, which is also
type of people who fly in from like a pie and mash shop. Inside, pancake with a film of truffle a deranged thing to say. But
Taiwan, eat lunch at Geranium it’s sleek and modern, a sea of and foraged wild garlic. Or a eating at Geranium seems to
T
2022 Mezquiriz Navarra Rosé
flower-shaped cutouts of the bewildering every year. As we head Spain (12.5%) Lidl, £5.49
stuff, dusted in cherry powder towards the May bank holiday all A smooth rosado from Navarra,
and swimming in savoury-sweet we’re looking for is a refreshing to the east of Rioja, this has
horseradish foam. “Sorry, did wine that will hit the spot with fresh notes of raspberry and
you say this is just boiled?” bright citrus acidity and can be cranberry, with a savoury kick.
I asked a chef in disbelief. She enjoyed straight from the fridge.
smiled sheepishly: “Ah, sort of. Yet we are confronted by rows of 2023 Señorio de Sarria
It’s a complicated process.” pink bottles online or on the shelf. Rosado Navarra Spain (14%)
I’ll bet. Everyone working How to choose? It’s not easy to The Wine Society, £7.95
here is an obsessive: young select by country when virtually This dark-hued garnacha
people brought in from all over every wine producer from England to imparts bold strawberry flavour,
the world the way 16-year-old New Zealand offers some kind of rosé. By with a light, balanced finish.
prodigies are sold to the colour? Provence has cornered the market
Premier League. In the open in strikingly pale pinks, but I feel we have La Vieille Ferme Rosé France
kitchen, there’s none of the reached peak Provençal rosé. At the top end (12.5%) Waitrose, £8.50
shouting and clanging of the they still offer good value, such as the silky, Very pale with a gentle pink
Gordon Ramsay school — or elegant 2022 Whispering Angel from Caves blush, this top-seller is fruity,
indeed of the Noma school, d’Esclans (Majestic, £23.99); and producers aromatic and easy-drinking,
where the head chef, René such as Domaines Ott, Domaine Ray-Jane with refreshing hints of citrus.
Redzepi, admitted to bullying and Miraval are worth tracking down. But
staff in the past, and started many don’t provide enough complexity for Taste the Difference
paying interns after one claimed the price and are becoming lighter in style. Bordeaux Rosé France
all she got to do for three months Darker-coloured rosé, produced in the (12.5%) Sainsbury’s, £8.50
was make beetles out of jam. southern Rhône appellation of Tavel and A no-nonsense, salmon-pink
Here, the chefs work in often using the garnacha grape in Spain, example using only merlot,
silence, moving instinctively has more structure and bite and pairs with bite and a crisp mouthfeel.
around each other like particles beautifully with food, particularly heavy
in Brownian motion. dishes with rich, garlicky flavours. These 2022 Sancerre Rosé France
ILLUSTRATION BY ALEX GREEN / FOLIO ART FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE. SANE SEVEN, JASON ALDEN
Could any dinner be worth are good options for the beginning and (13%) Asda, £15.50 It’s unusual
this cost? Well, yes. It could. But end of summer. I like the juicy, tangy 2022 to find a sancerre rosé in the
only if you’re into umami. Wild Arbousset Tavel Rosé (Tesco, £12.50). supermarket, but here’s a
mushroom soup with dark beer, Alternatively, should you choose by grape perky, structured pinot noir
almost meaty in its richness. variety? This is complicated when many with delicate floral aromas.
Roasted celeriac in a sauce of rosés are blends. Cabernet franc always
yeast flakes. Chunky walnuts, imparts structure but I favour grenache — 2022 Rosé La Dame Rousse
cauliflower mousse and often combined with cinsault or syrah. It’s Domaine de la Mordorée
sauerkraut foam. Imagine a miso by far the best grape for rosé as when fully France (14%) Lea & Sandeman,
soup you’d be willing to pay a ripe it imparts an agreeable fleshy £26.75 A blend of grenache,
month’s rent for: most of the definition. There is still a lot of clairette and syrah, this tavel
tasting menu tastes like that. value to be found in France in has lovely notes of redcurrant.
Among the besuited super- regions outside Provence such
rich, I spotted one man with as the Loire, even Bordeaux —
long scruffy hair and a denim try the full-bodied 2022 Bargain of the week
jacket. He had to be the richest Clarendelle Inspired
person in the room to have the by Haut-Brion 2020 M&S Classics Chianti
confidence to be that casual. Rosé (Laithwaites, Reserva Italy (13.5%) £9.50
There’s a metaphor there for £17.99). And don’t A sumptuous chianti with
what Geranium is doing. overlook the smoky hints of spice, dark
“You’re not to think you’re perennial wealth cherry and the signature
anything special” is the rule. of bargains from racy acidity of sangiovese.
These guys are special n the Languedoc n
M
remember that seed on the land. But it is fed going on in any of that.
Mungo Jerry song and watered by God’s almighty There isn’t even any
featuring the line, hand.” Absolute timelessness. ploughing any more. In the
“Have a drink, have It was true ten thousand years olden days farmers would turn
a drive. Go out and ago and it’s true now. the top layer of soil over using
see what you can No, it isn’t. God doesn’t a plough so that the weeds were
find.” And of course water the land any more. The buried. And because they were
we all realise you coal-fired Chinese power deprived of sunlight they
can’t even think stations do that. And he doesn’t died. It was a lovely, natural,
that any more. And feed it either. That’s handled rosy-cheeked way of creating
nor, really, is it considered by CF Industries, which makes the perfect seedbed for the
acceptable to follow up with: all the chemical fertiliser that following year’s crop.
“If her daddy’s rich, take her farmers use on their fields. But then along came Little
out for a meal. If her daddy’s We don’t even scatter seeds Miss Thunberg and her merry
poor, just do what you feel.” any more, because that’s band of Packhamites, who
Times have moved on. wasteful onanism. We drill decided that 1,500 billion
Of course lots of lyrics now them into the ground, at precise tonnes of carbon is stored in
feel as if they’re from another intervals and at a precise depth the planet’s soil. And that if you
aeon. Clair by Gilbert O’Sullivan using a computer-controlled, turn this soil over with a plough,
especially. But you might think £40,000 seed drill. That’s towed all of it will be released into the
it’s impossible for the lyrics in a behind a £250,000 Case tractor, upper atmosphere in the form
harvest festival hymn to become which was built in the factory of carbon dioxide. Which is bad.
out of date. “We plough the where they used to make Tiger So the lovely, natural method of
more diesel than I would if I submarine, and wondering if
used weedkiller. So that’s not it might be cheaper, easier and
good for the environment kinder to the environment to
either. But here’s the kicker: use chemical weedkiller instead.
I wouldn’t be pumping any This is farming. Only last
chemicals into the soil. week I discovered that
So that’s the choice — soil or approximately 18 billion slugs
sky? You have to hurt one of have come to live in the fields
them if you want to eat. I went where I’ve planted spring
for the sky and rented a plough. barley. If I adopt a live-and-let-
I settled on an eight-furrow live rewilding attitude and do
monster for two good reasons. nothing they will eat the lot
Number one: the bigger the and, next year, there will be no
plough, the faster you get the Hawkstone lager. As that makes
job done. And number two: no sense, I therefore have to
none of Kaleb’s tractors would pepper the field with slug
be powerful enough to pull it, pellets, which will kill them.
so we’d have to use my 270bhp Great. But these pellets will
Lamborghini. Which would also kill all the worms. So what’s
annoy him. Even admitting that the answer? There isn’t one.
it’s better than his tractors gives Similarly, I have signed up to
him a hot flush. Sometimes the government’s eco-friendly
he vibrates with fury when he grant scheme and will be
goes near it. planting things that aren’t food
The only drawback to this in three fields. They’re good for
cleverly wrought large plough the soil and they’re good for my
plan was that, because Kaleb bank balance. But it means I’m
refuses to drive my tractor, not growing stuff people can
I’d have to do the ploughing. eat. I know one chap who has
chemists can throw at it. it worked, caused me to set world of no right answers.
So this year Charlie said we off in a new direction. It began Which brings us back to
should become medieval and to look as if a drunk, blind another harvest festival hymn.
plough the fields instead. man with no arms was doing All things bright and
Selfish? Well, yes, this will the ploughing. beautiful. All birds that must
shoot a tonne of CO2 into the All the time I was watching be plucked. No matter what
troposphere and that’s obviously the fuel gauge plummet like we choose to do, we’re well
bad. And I’ll use four times the depth gauge in a holed and truly … n
oes what you eat chemicals that transmit signals Meanwhile, the second group help with anxiety too. One
D
affect your mood? in the brain,” the nutritionist stuck to their normal diet. study compared the anxiety
Obviously, devouring Rhiannon Lambert explains. After three months, the levels of anxious people who
a bowl of chocolate “For example, serotonin, group on the Mediterranean ate fermented foods with
ice cream or sinking often called the ‘feelgood’ diet experienced a much those who didn’t. Those
your teeth into a thick neurotransmitter, is derived greater reduction in their who ate fermented foods
slice of lavishly from the amino acid depressive symptoms than felt less anxious.”
buttered toast feels tryptophan.” Meaning that if the group who stuck to their Other fermented foods
good in the moment, you eat more tryptophan-rich regular diet, with a third of include kimchi, yoghurt,
but can your diet foods such as poultry, dairy, the participants meeting the cheese, sauerkraut and
provide more than a wholegrains and legumes, criteria for remission, compared kombucha, which also
quick hit of happiness? Could you could feel happier. with 8 per cent in the group support a healthy gut.
your food — and how you eat it Lambert continues: “The who didn’t change their diet.
— have lasting effects on your balance of omega-3 and omega-6 Other studies have also Go (leafy) green
mental wellbeing? Scientists fatty acids, antioxidants and demonstrated this link between All vegetables are good for your
are beginning to think so. other nutrients in the diet also what we eat and how we feel. gut but the dark leafy greens
This is a relatively new area of helps to regulate inflammation, Research recently published seem to be particularly potent
research known as “nutritional which is linked to mood in the British Medical Journal when it comes to wellbeing.
psychiatry” and is part of the disorders.” This means that found that people who “They are great for brain
reason experts now refer to adding foods rich in omega-3 consumed higher amounts health and mood,” Leeming
the gut as our “second brain”. and omega-6 fatty acids — of ultra-processed foods says. “They contain folate,
There are more than 100 vegetable oils, nuts, seeds and such as ready meals, sugary fibre, plenty of polyphenols
trillion microbes — bacteria, oily fish — to your diet could cereals and fizzy drinks were and are linked to lower odds of
fungi and other microorganisms reduce inflammation, and in about 50 per cent more depression. Eating just over a
— living inside our intestines, turn help improve your mood. likely to develop anxiety and cup of cooked dark green leafy
in an ecosystem that’s referred A positive change in diet has 20 per cent more likely to veggies a day could keep your
to as the gut microbiome. These also been shown to improve experience depression. brain up to 11 years younger.”
minuscule critters play a critical symptoms of depression. In a It seems that if we look after
role in everything from helping randomised controlled trial at our gut, it will look after us. You should cocoa
your immune system to the University of Melbourne in With that in mind, what do It’s no great surprise that
function correctly, to whether 2017, participants with clinically the experts recommend we chocolate can make you happy,
we develop certain allergies. diagnosed depression were put on the menu? but it turns out that feeling can
That means our gut health can split into two groups. The first, last beyond your final bite —
have a big impact on our with the help of a nutritionist, Add some fizz though the higher the cocoa
physical health. adopted a Mediterranean-style Kefir is a sour and sometimes content the better.
But mounting evidence diet — known for its emphasis fizzy fermented milk drink “Just two squares of 85 per
shows your gut microbes could on plants and olive oil. that’s full of good bacteria. It cent dark chocolate a day was
affect your mental health too. is prepared by inoculating the found to improve participants’
How? Well, the gut and the milk of cows, goats or sheep mood and their diversity of
brain are in communication with kefir grains, to produce gut bacteria,” Leeming says.
with each other via something a thin yoghurt. “Researchers found links
called the gut-brain axis. This “Drinking two glasses of kefir between their mood and certain
communication runs both ways a day has been shown to change bacteria types, suggesting that
— and scientists believe that, parts of the brain that handle part of chocolate’s influence on
in the same way that nerves emotions, and the participants your mood could be through
before a big event can make were better able to pick up your gut microbiome. Dark
your stomach squirm, what you on the emotions of others,” chocolate is surprisingly high
eat can trigger brain chemicals says Dr Emily Leeming, a in both fibre and a group of
that influence your mood. microbiome scientist whose antioxidants called polyphenols,
“Nutrients from food book, Genius Gut, is out in July. both of which feed your gut
serve as building blocks for She adds: “Eating plenty bacteria.” Time to reach for the
neurotransmitters, the of fermented foods may also expensive stuff.
gut microbes, helping them to chickpeas, peanuts and lentils beneficial components.
do their job in maintaining our — are one of the highest And breathe
health. But it can do more than sources of dietary fibre and Your gut is impacted not just by Join the fast crowd
that. “For every 5g of fibre, a delicious way to support what you eat but by how you eat A recent study by King’s
there’s a 5 per cent associated your gut microbiome. it. Lisa Macfarlane, co-founder College London found that
decrease in the risk of of the health company The Gut eating within a ten-hour
depression,” Leeming says. Fat is good Stuff, explains: “Something we window, and therefore fasting
Dr Rupy Aujla, who’s behind Need another reason to eat advocate for, beyond diet, is for fourteen hours each day,
the podcast The Doctor’s more oily fish? “Omega-3 fatty putting your body in ‘rest and is associated with better
Kitchen, lives life by this mantra. acids play a role in the structure digest’ mode instead of eating mood, better sleep, more
“I call it BBGS — beans, berries, and function of cell membranes on the go. Try taking three deep energy and less hunger. This
greens and seeds, and I try to in the brain,” the nutritionist breaths before you eat — it’s is easier than it sounds:
get them into my diet every 24 Rhiannon Lambert says. proven that digestion happens it would mean, for example,
hours. They’re nutrient-dense “They are involved in the more effectively when eating having your first bite at 9am
ingredients that provide production and signalling of in a relaxed and calm state.” and your last by 7pm n
‘Wonderful’
MARIAN
KEYES
‘So warm
and kind’
FERN
BRITTON
‘Compelling
family drama’
VERONICA
HENRY
A
#FitTok hashtag
reveals couples lifting
one another overhead,
mums sprinting with
pushchairs in tow
and influencers so
bereft of body fat that
it’s a wonder they
make it from one
room to another
without needing to sit down.
Our obsession with
maximum fitness can make the
average gymgoer feel hopeless.
It doesn’t have to be all or
nothing, however. Try these
achievable fitness goals.
low as you can, keeping your and back straight to avoid injury. You don’t have to do a Russ a good place to start: no one
thighs parallel to the ground. Squeeze your stomach at the Cook and run the length of knows how low or high you’ve
Push through your heels to top, then push your hips back Africa. Training for your local set your resistance n
D R I V I N G Nick Rufford l
I
I’m bowling along the M25 journey cost him just £56 in cars, I reckon the true range is have regenerative braking,”
with a bootful of clobber electricity. Proof, he says, that about two thirds of this, or 226 says Gerdes, 61. “It’s bad that
including folding chairs electric cars can handle long miles. I need to cover 274 to get people think it’s the be all and
and a tent, plus three distances if driven correctly. me to Bournemouth and back. end all of fuel saving, as it’s not.”
passengers. I’m also driving I have chosen a day when I’ve been driving electric cars I therefore switched out of
in bare feet. I’m not on the temperature is 10C, the on and off for a while now, and B mode — highest recuperation
my way to a hippy festival, UK annual average, to avoid one mistake I’ve been making, — into D mode and selected
but I am trying to prove swaying the outcome of the according to Gerdes, is to use the lowest level.
that green is good by experiment (batteries are maximum regen (regeneration Gerdes advises using
“hypermiling” my way to temperature-sensitive). For is the amount of energy an something called active cruise
the south coast — squeezing the extra thrift I’ve chosen a electric car recovers when it control on the motorway.
most possible miles out of a cut-price car — a Skoda Enyaq slows down). The common This is a system by which the
single charge of an electric car. iV 80. With plenty of room for perception is that selecting car detects its distance from
I’ve taken some tips from front and backseat passengers the highest level of regen saves other traffic and adjusts its
Wayne Gerdes, the world and a boot large enough for a energy. This, Gerdes says, is speed to avoid energy-sapping
champion hypermiler, who mountain of beach gear, the true only when you’re stopping acceleration and braking. On
B E S T PR I CE S O N
W
Dewsbury, West It has become headlines again
Yorkshire. One of five because of the situation in the
daughters of Pakistani Middle East, but Michael Gove,
immigrants, she who recently announced a new
studied law at Leeds unit to gather intelligence and
University. The first Muslim identify extremist groups,
woman to be selected as seems to have a genuine issue
a Conservative candidate, with certain beliefs. I have
in 2005 she failed to win worked beside him in
the Dewsbury seat at the government and I know what
general election, but was he has proposed is dangerous
created a life peer, Baroness and divisive. He seems to find
Warsi, enabling her to it hard to say Gaza is occupied,
become a shadow minister. or even the word Palestine.
In 2014 she resigned from Unfortunately we have a weak
government over its policy prime minister. Rishi [Sunak]
on the Israel-Gaza conflict. is trying to survive but if he
She has a daughter from a doesn’t have the strength to
previous relationship and lead, he should call an election.
four stepchildren through her Leave with a level of dignity
marriage to the businessman and some principles intact.
Iftikhar Azam. She and Azam I always receive more
live in Wakefield. Islamophobic messages from
trolls on social media when
My plan was to semi-retire in moments like this happen. The
2024 and spend more time only positive of the current
with my husband, who runs a situation is that the issue is now
food-manufacturing company. at the centre of public debate.
I’m busier than ever, staying too Whoever arrives home first
many days in London at the we divorced I was reintroduced throws something together for
House of Lords and not enough to Iftikhar via a friend.
WORDS OF WISDOM supper. Chicken masala is a
with him in Yorkshire. If I wake I wasn’t sure we’d be a good Best advice I was given favourite. When I do get to sit
up at home our breakfast is match at first. From school I Stress and worry all you down with Iftikhar in the
usually Greek yoghurt, berries thought he was uptight, and he want but if it’s meant to evening we talk about where
and granola, or scrambled eggs. thought I argued all the time be, it will happen we might go on holiday. Last
Iftikhar was at the same and got into fights. But I agreed year we discovered an amazing
school as me. He was that really to meet because I wanted to Advice I’d give island in the Maldives. I only
awkward prefect who would show him I was successful and If you want to be a politician, learnt to swim just in time to try
report me to the headmaster a baroness, he had just been a understand why first scuba diving. After the general
and put me in detention. What smug prefect with a tight tie. It election, whenever that is, we
I didn’t know as a 16-year-old turned into something special. What I wish I’d known want to visit New Zealand.
is that he would become a Our blended family of five Bad times will pass and you When you have experienced
wonderful human being, my children ranges from 25 to 33. will get through it financial hardship, a loveless
second husband and the man We have four grandchildren as relationship and no security in
who would make me the well. All the kids have left home, life, when they finally do appear
happiest I have ever been. so mealtimes are a lot quieter. you value them. I feel incredibly
In 1990 I had an arranged Lunch might be smoked grateful every day n
marriage and, over time, became salmon, sushi or a sandwich. Interview by Jeremy Taylor.
miserable. We weren’t well I didn’t speak English when Warsi co-presents the
suited but back then you were I first went to primary school. podcast A Muslim & a Jew
expected to get on with it. After We were a poor family and Dad Go There with David Baddiel