ue een Workbench A traditional work- bench. Something every woodworker wants, bat seldom gots around tomaking —usa- ally because they're a lot of werk to uid, nd buying one is expensive, ‘The ‘idea betind this workbench ‘wes to make it sturdy, yet easy to build, The challenge was to take the threebasie parts —the bese, top, and vises, and come np with simple ways to build thom. ‘THE BASE. On a traditional bench, the baseis big and heavy. The weight is good. It helps erente a stable foundation forthe top. But the size can make the bench diffiult to move or store, ‘To solve this A traditional bench that’s sturdy and easy to make. This workbench ‘features a knock-down base and optional vises. problem, I used a unique shop-made system that lets you knock down the base into separate pieces, see photo A. ‘THE TOP.Just like the base, the tops on most traditional benches are glued up from lange pieces ofhardwood. Not only are these “slabs” achallenge toglue up, they'realso difficult to get flat. So I took a different approach. I started with a double layer of plywood for strength. Then to get the same clas- sic look, { glued on hardwood strips to the plywood. ‘Tomake the topeven simpler, you can replace the ‘wood strips with two layers of Masonite, see photo B. This way when the bench shows signs of wear, the top layer of Masonite can be easily replaced. ‘OPTIONS. You can use the bench without vises as asturdy assembly table or worksurface, Or you ean add vises and make it more versatile. There are two waysto do this. ‘You could buy ametal woodworking vise and bolt itto the top. Or you can build one or two shop-made vises, see photo C. They're solid, inexpensive, and easy to make. (For more on this, see page 23.) . BB, Roplaceable Top: The op ayerof . Optional Vise:A sturdy vise com- @ ‘Masonite is held in place with carpet bines with a simple round dog system tape so you can replace i. to make clamping a workpiece easy. A. Knock-Down System: A nut cap- tured ina cross dowel makes a sim- ple but effective knock-down system. 16 ShopNotes No.7Gauee eae SEEPAGE 25) f Les e Material List By verwr O e @ Base E 4 Arme (2) Bien? -25 ch < ere 3 Feet (2) Baath -26 ea C Legs (4) Bie xB -26%4 a ‘sax ~® Foor D Stretchers (2) 194 x5 -42 HEX HEAD BOLT E Spacer Dlocke() Wax B23 ty o| F Top leces (2). 22/2 00%4 -% ply Ha¥dware List 6 Top Stripe (15) Vexte 60 H End Aprons (2) 19a x SV/2 - 22Ve © (15)No.Bx1Vs" © (4) 3a" Washers 1 Fa/Bk. Aprons (2) 1¥%4 x 3V2 - 6244 Fh Woodscrews © (4) 96" Nuts J Splines Yax1~16 Lineal Feet © (4) 50" © (4) 1"x 52" Dowel * see text HoxHead Bolts © (4) ¥e"x1" Dowel Cutting Diagram 15" -96" (1 80.FT) 90" 8-60" 780.) 3 ‘24 x10" -96" (580.7) @ ‘fat x6¥2'- 96" (9 BD.FT.) e760" (680.7) 2 feed” a laf Note. Ausd ReaUiRED, ShopNotes ctThe Base I began work on the bench by bailéing the base. Tt consists of two side assemblies connected by apair of stretchers, see Fig. 1. Bach side assombly ismadle up of an arm (A) that supports the bench top. And a foot (B) that rests on the floor: Then these two pieces are connected with two Jegs (C), see Fig. 1. ‘ARMS & FEET. Both the arms and the feet. are made hy gining up two picees of 8/4 (134"-thick) stock. The length of both pieces is 25"— the only difference is their height (width), see Fig. 2. The arm is 2" high and the foot is314" high. To soften the comers of these pieces, Ieut.a bevel on each end, see Fig. 2a, MORTISES.T make the side assemblies as strong as possible, the arms and feet are connected to the legs with mortise and ‘enon joints, see Fig. 1. The mor- tises in the arms and feet are the same size and same distance from ‘each end, see Fig. 2a. ‘To make these moriises, Tused a 1"dia, Forstner bit in a drill press to remove most of the waste. Then I squared up the sides ofthe mortise with a chisel. ‘RELIEE. After cutting themor- tises, a relief is cut in the bottom of each foot (B). An easy way to do this is to damp the feet to- gether and drill 1'-dia, holes for the start and stop points,see Fig. 8. Then, unclamp the feet and eut ‘out the waste on the band saw. LEGS.Now that you've com- pleted the feet, the next step is to make the four legs (C). These pieces are glued up from 8/4 stock and are cut to a finished length of 264", see Fig. 4. (Note the loca- tion of the glue line.) ‘TENONS. Aftcrenttingthe legs to length, tenons are cut on both ends. The tenons are 11" long and sized to fit the mortises you 18 Gee ea son ape ASSeMeLiEs Foor AREeNTCAL 2 = ‘CENTER =WDE NoTEtcwueurouasye __— MORTIOE eo SECOND: UNcIAM® Feer| RELIEF ‘cut earlier in the arms and feet, later, see Figs. 4 and 4b, Second, see Figs.4 and 4a. you'll need to drill counterbored Before giuingthe legs in place, holes for connecting the streteh- there area couple more things to ers to the legs, see Fig. 4b. do, The firsts to cut mortisesfor _ SIDEASSEMBLY. Finally, sand the stretchers that are added all the sharp edges of the arms, ‘ShopNotes No.7eRe ee feet, and legs. Then glue up the two side assemblies, ‘STRETCHERS ‘The two stretchers (D) that. con- nect the side assemblies are also made of 8/4 stock, see Fig. 5. Short tenons are cut on the ends to fitthe mortises in the legs, see Fig. 5a. KNOCK-DOWN SYSTEM. The se- ret to holding the stretchers in place isa unique knock-downsys- tem. It allows me to disassemble the base when I need to move or store it, refer to Figs. 1 and 1a, ‘Thenaquiekly assembleand tighten it to form a solid bese again, ‘CROSS DOWEL. The heart ofthe Imock-down system is a cross dowel that fits in the stretchers, see Fig. 6. A notch in the dowel Firsts CUFTENONS captures” a nnt and prevents it from spinning when the bolt is tightened, refer to Photo A on page 16 and Fig. 7. NOTCH. To locate this noteh, dry clamp the base together and insert 2 5t-long dowel in the stretcher, see Fig. 5a. Then drill a hole into the stretcher and through the dowel, see Fig. 6. ‘At the same time, make a mark ‘on the dowel flush with the boi- tom of the stretcher (so you ean cat it to length later), see Fig. 6. CUT NOTCH. Now it's just a is made, eut the dowel to its fin- matter of cutting the notch, see ished length, Then, since it'll be Fig. 7a. To do this, | made two difficult to rotate the dowel (and saw cuis, then cleaned out the position the nut) after it’s eut to ‘waste witha chisel. length, I cut a slot in the bottom, KERFDOWEL. Once the notch see Fig. Ya. This way Iean insert, ‘e serewdriver in the slotand tum the dowel. ‘ASSEMBLY, Finally, assemble the base by first threading the bolt into the eross dowels. Then tighien down the bolts. [6] ] z | eirst: orRETCHER merer pone INereereHs®| 5 = te Nl ease or SECOND: oni. SNOTHROUGH | THIRD: ‘THE DOWEL waexpower [> No.7 ShopNotesA sturdy, stable > top is easy to make when you build itup from several layers. [TUE With the base complete, the next step is to build the top. It's built up by first gluing and serewing two plywood top pieces (F) to- gether, see Fig. 8. Then, hard- wood strips are glued to the plywood, see Fig. 9. Note: Instead of hardwood strips, you can use a double layer of Masonite, see photo B on page 16.The frst layerisserewed tothe plywood. The second (top) layer is cearpet-taped in place, This allows it to be replaced as needed. STRIPS.To cut. the top strips (G), start with @ clear (no knots) blank of 142"-thiek hardwood, ‘Then ent 14"-thick strips off the edge, see Fig. 92. ‘TEST FIT. To make sure all of the strips fit tight together, it's a ‘good idea to test fit them before gluing them in place. Note: The strips are eut long so they hang over the ends, see Fig. ADHESIVE. After you've fit all thestrips, the next step isto glue them to the top. The only unusual thingisthe glue Tused—eonstrue- tion adhesive such as PL400). 1 did this for two reasons. First, since the strips will move with seasonal changes in humid- ity, Ineeded an adhesive that was extremely strong, but stil flex ible. Second, to glue and position allthestrips at onee, Thad to have an adhesive that had plenty of assembly time before it set up. TRDASTRIPS. After lettingthe strips dry overnight, run a flush trim bit in a hand-held router around the top, see Fig. 11. 20 Bro fa te peste ste (GR056 SECTION | e ' +i Tom | eazy oe top Pieces © i (ar-reick PLYWOOD) =| ae Pe é i Q ‘Yet BEAD OF CONSTRUCTION (xrsi¥e= 29" LONG) (Rain Runs} onsrairs fr STRIPS FROM EDGE ‘CLAMP Fist ste? ‘OF TOF Tor STRIPS. 10} last oter 11 ra, ve eS I > s SF antes, mae Nee nbn eas ° ‘ShopNotes[aee Leen The Aprons ‘A The aprons areattached to the top witha spline and groovejoint. ‘These solines also lock the cor- ners of the aprons together. All that's eft to complete the top is to add tho aprons, see Fig. 12. ‘The aprons wrap around the top and cover the plywood edges. ‘They also form the back jew of the shop-macle vises on paige 23. ‘CUT APRONS. All ofthe aprons ‘are eat from 1°4"-thiek stock and are3¥2" wide. Theend aprons (H) are cat to match the width of the top @216"), The front and back aprons (D are ext. to match the length ofthe top plus the thickness ofthe two end aprons 6214". aprons to the top, and to “lock” the corners of the aprons to- gether, Iused asplineand groove joint, coo Fig. 12, GROOVES. The first, step to making this joint is to rout a groove around the edge of the top, see Figs. 13 and ‘Then a matching groove is routed on the inside face of the apron pieces (H,D. Note: To lock the top corners of the aprons to- gether, this groove “wraps around” the top ends of the end aprons (H), see Fig. 14. ‘To lock the bottom corner of tthe aprons together, I routed an- other groove across the lower ends of the end aprons (H), see Fig. 14. Thenamatchingstopped ‘groove is routed near the bottom edge of the front and baek aprons (, see Fig. 15. No.7 BACK APRON, ROS PRE, ALL APRONS ARE CUT SPLINES.After the grooves are routed, 1'-wide hardwood splines (J) are eut to fit in the grooves, see Figs. 14 and 15, Before gluing the splines and aprons to the top, there are acou- ple of things to consider. First, if you're adding one (or two) of the Note: [ROUT GRGOVEON ALL our roovee on ens SPLINES ‘r-maoe) FRONT APEON (easier n ezieyO shop-made vises shown on page 28, the aprons need to be drilled before they’re glued to the top. Second, if you have a Masonite top, lift off the top layer before gluing on the aprons. Ifyou don’, the top layer will be glued to the aprons and won't bo removable. ‘rune 132 LONG rovrsrorro 7 ‘GROOVE NEAR——~ FRONTIBAGK ShopNotes 21Tee Assembly With the top complete, there's one more step belore assembling the bench, That's to ginespacer blocks 1 the arms ofthe base, see Fig. 16. SPACER BLOCKS. The spacer Mocks allow you to aljust the working height of the bench. At the same time, they provide clear- anee for the vises shown on page 23, Inmy ease, the blocks are 132" high (thiel. This makes the woek- ing height ofthe bench 34” ‘You'll need four spacer blocks (E) (three if you've installed the shop-made front vise), see Fig. 16. After you've cut the blocks to size, slue thom to the top of the arms. DOWELPINS. Thetopisheld to the base with four dowel pins. ‘These pins fit in holes drilled in the front and back aprons (1) and in the spacer blocks (E). Loeating the holes in the aprons is easy. Start by flipping the top upside down. Thea dill 2" dia holes, 9" in from each end of the front and back aprons, see Figs. 17 and 17a. ‘To locate the matching hoes in the spacer blocks, I used dowel centers, see Fig. 17a, (These are Just round metal inserts with sharp points. They're available at most hardware stores.) DOWEL CENTER. Insert adowel center in each apron hole, Then flip the base upside down and po- sition it soit’scentered from end- to-end and from front-to-beck. To transfer the hole loeations, sim- ply tap onthe base. ‘Then fli the base right side up and drill the holes. Next, insert the dowel pins and set the topon the base, see Fig. 18. FINISH. The only thing leftisto apply a finish to the bench. T ‘wanted a finish that was darable and easy to maintain. Polyure- thane is durable, but it ean crack under heavy use. So T went with anil finish. Trubbed intwo coats of tung oil. Then buffed thebench to anice sheen. 22 Ne SPACER BLOCK ©-——>f map notte reaumen IF SHOPMADE FRONT VBE 18 ADDED GLUE BLOCK FLUSH wn So ot Finst: DRL DA, HOLE, DEEP SECOND: —— J Use Dowel. cenreRS INSERT DOWEL PINS, INBASE AND 3 serroririsce ‘ShopNotes No.7[URL eee e Shop-Made Vise This vise combines a massive wood face and a double row of dog holes to provide two separate clamping options. f there's one feature that changes a workbench froma simple table into areal woodworking tool, it’s vise. So when we set about building the bench in this issue, the question naturally came up about the kind of vise it should have. After looking at several manufactured vises, it ‘was obvious that an inexpensive vise with all the features we wanted just wasn't avsilable. That's when we decided to build our own shop-maie ver- sion, see photo, CLAMPING OPTIONS. This vise provides two dif- ferent clamping options. A massive wood face lamps work against the front of the bench. And there are two rows of dog holes (with shop-mace dogs to go with them) that allow large projects to be clamped on the benchtop. ‘TWO VISES. To make the bench more versatile, T added a second vise to the other end, (For informa- tion on building this vise, refer to page 27.) Al though both vises are designed to complement the ShopNotes bench, with a few modifications either of them can be added to an existing workbench. MATERIALS. All it takesis a vise serew and few basic materials. The main component is 2 2114'- Jong vise serew that I bought from a tool catalog. (See page 31 for sources of hardware.) ‘The metal rods that guide the face of the vise are cut from sections of black iron pipe that I picked up at the hardware stare. And the wood parts of the vise are made from 94 (134"-thick) hard maple. GUIDE, EXPLODED SUlDE VIEW Materials List A. Kooper Strip (W) 194" «iN B Face(two pcos) 1%4"x5"-10" gh) © Guide Bock(1) 19443-1010" | © Brace Blocks (2) 194"x248" (rh) 10/2" E Brace Pirte(!) 7x10!2"-94" plywood | F 9pacer Blocks (2) 194°x3"- 204" © Guide Raita (2) H Handle () ‘dla Dowel - 14" 1 Gap(2) Weta" Ne" Note: Fares cut from (1) 194" 2" -96"ong plece. | Hardware (1) We dia. x2tie" © Vise Screw . 9 (2yV4"x4V2"Lag ores © 2 (6) Va" 3 Lag Sows © © (6) tz x IVa" Fn Screws (O)#B x1 Fh Screws © (4)2"ConcreteNele © SPACER ‘BLOCK (4) 8 Concrete Nails (2)94"1Dx24" ron Ppe (0) 4" Fat Washers (2) #6 540" Fh Woo serene (Brass) (O)#Ox2v2Fh Screws (2) t-dia. Rings No.7 ShopNotesFront Vise TOMATCH GUE RODS“ GLUE PIECES TOGETHER. ‘This shop-made vise is modeled the comers before ghuing the comein. The vise serew provides after a traditional woodworking pieces together, see Fig. le. ‘the clamping pressure while the vise. With thistype of Visealarge At this point, all that’s needed rods keep the jaws aligned. ‘wood face forms the front jaw. isa way to clamp thefaee tightly ‘The key is to get the holes in ‘And the apron of the bench acts against the apron. That’s where the face to align with the holes in as the back jaw, see Fig. 1. the vise screw and guide rods the apron. To do this, I made a Ifyou pian on adding vises to the workbench shown on page 16, Anail anda its easier to work on the aprons sorap block lets before they're glued to the bench ‘you fle an equal top. For an existing bench that amount off both doesn't: have aprons, you'll need the edges ofa to make an apron. (For mare on spade bit. this, refer to page 21.) ‘Note: To allow clearance for the moving parts of the vise, the apron should extend at least 11" Ihelow the benchtop, see Fig. 1a. KEEPER STRIP, Once the apron is complete, a keeper strip (A)is [> BRACE BLOCKS NOTE: use MopireD added to the bottom edge of the Crease bak) -tole) "SPADE BH TopmaL front apron, The purpose of the i screwnsenur — CODERODS strip is to eupport two metal guide | fS=% < Fo ovine Bioce Todsthat are added later. To make: A © curve BLock| it easy to install the vise, the < Oe keeper strip is attached with six Jag screws (no glue), see Fig, 1b. ACE. With the keeper strip in Place, the vise face (B) is built up ‘rom two pieces of 8/4 (19% "-thick) stock, see Fig. 1e. To give the vise a traditional look, I cut the out- side piece shorter and rounded Na ‘AND DEL HOLES 2 ShopNotes No.7FEATURE PROJECT ‘template that has ¥8"-dia holes to mark the centerpoints ofthe vise serew and guide reds, see Fig. 2 By cutting the template the same length as the face and add- ing a Masonite lip to the bottom, all you have to do is hold the ends flush to mark the holes. (used a brad point hit, see Fig. 22.) DRILLHOLES. Drilling a 114". dia, hole through the apron and the face for the vise serew is easy. ‘The tricky part is drilling the holes for the guide reds so they slide smoothly without any “slop.” GUIDE RODS The problem is the guide rods are made from #4" iron pipe and the outside diame- ter of this pipe is slightly more than 11/6". The solution is to file a 114" apade bit to the comect size, xe@ margin tip on page 24 CARRIAGE, After rilling the holes, the two-part carriage is added. A guide block (C) supports the guide rods and houses a mut that’s part of the vise screw, see Fig. 8. And two brace blocks (D), eevee) setts (es tone) ON THICKNESS OF CARRIAGE ASSEMBLY keep the guiderods parallel peach vise nut is serewed in place, see other asthe viseistightened. Fig. 8. Then the bottem edges af Here again, T used the tem- plate to loeate the holes, The only difference is the blocks are shorter than the template. So you'll need tocenterthetemplate onthe length of the blocks. After drilling the holes, the Brace NOTE: reMove REEPER STRIP FIRST: owe SPACERSLO“KS 10 ‘uibe stock, ‘SHANK HOLES AND JOAACHGE A Se THIRD: Pa eoos S ASE SCREW SECOND: EXE AND =| FIRST: aprtr cone STRUCTION ADHESIVE TOHOLES IN PACE AND ‘ShopNotes the brace blocks are trimmed off to clear the base of the bench. ASSEMBLY. Now it'sjust a mat- ter of catting the guide rods to size @4") and sliding them through ‘the holes in the blocks, see Fig. 4. ‘Then a brace plate (B) with two shallow rabbets is glued and serewed to the brace blocks. PINS. Tokeep the rods fromslid- ing oat of the brace blocks, they're “pinned? in place, see Fig. 4a. (I deilled pilot holes and then drove in hardened steel conerete nails) ATTACH VISE. Next, the keeper strip is removed and two spacer blocks (F) are glued to the guide block, see Fig. 6. Then, with the spacers snug against the apron, counterbored holes are drilled in the guide block and lag screws are used to fasten it to the benchtop. INSTALL FACE. At this point, the fuce can be installed by apply- ing come construction adhesive (P1400) inthe holes and slipping them over the guide rods. As be- fore, the rods are pinned after drawing the face tight against the bench with pipe clamps, see Figs 6 andGa. Finally, the vise serew is threaded into the mut and the ‘mounting flange screwed in place. 25A woaden hand- sorew supports the sides of the cap when aril. ing the hole for the handle. FEATURE PROJECT Front Vise (con't.) Before fipping the benchtop over, the last step is to install a pair of guide rails (G), see Fig. 7. ‘These rails solve 2 common problem of most vises — the ten- deney of one end of the vise to rack or “toe in” when a workpiece is tightened in the opposite end. ‘This uneven clamping pressure can cansea workpiece to sip. And it eventually enlarges the guide rod holes in the face. ‘To solve the problem, the rails “fyarness” tho rods so they can’t move from side to side. This kkeepsthe vise face parallel tothe ‘edge of the bench. INSTALLRAIS.To make this work, the rails are eut to fit be- tween the front and back aprons, ‘Then, they're fastened to the benchiop. An easy way to locate the rails is tomark the path ofthe ‘brace plate (E) on the benchtop with the vise in the open and closed position, see Fig. 7. ‘Then serew the rails to the top using the lines as a reference. Atthis point, the vise can be used to clamp a workpiece egainst the edge of the bench. But to clamp work flat on the top, I added @ bench dog system. This system has twobasie eom- ponents: holes and bench dogs. First, two rows of holes are drilled across the benchtop and the top edge of the face, see Fig. Zz ‘GUIDE RAIL ie aie) SSecucnnes tonic Tints aS A RePEc pen. aie Nous smineuen ror AND SE FACE FIRST: wank LOCATON (BRACE PLATE ON BENCHTOP IR OPEN AND ELOGED POSTION 022i Fa 8. As the vise is tightened, work is clamped between stops or “dogs” that fit in the holes. BENCH DOGS. The dogs can either be made of metal or wood. (Por sourees of brass dogs, see age 31.) To make wood dogs, all it takes isa 4"-dia. dowel. ‘The dowel is ripped offeenter on the bandsaw, see ig. 9a.'Then, tapered ‘Matis led onbothends of the thick pioce. After trimming the thin piece to length and gluing the pieces together, the bottom flat creates a “spring” that holds the dog in place. And the top flat. forces ‘work down onto the bench as the vise is tightened. HANDLE. To completetthe vise, Tadded a handle (H) and two caps (D). The handle isjust apiece of 1'-dia, dowel, see Fig, 10. And the caps are beveled wond blocks with holes drilled in the conter, see Fig. 10a, FIRST: oF Sr DOWEL 9 2ECONI FLAT ONToP ‘AND BOTTOM OF mHicx Pace THIRD: TRIM tan pce To LeNoTH AND Giue neces Fore 26 owe Yo ROUGH caP Nore: / ox "Fh woooscxew (erase) GING Acts 45 SHce ABSORBER ‘SECOND: cur evocKs Tounan Gxiconnens OF ‘ShopNotes No.7End Vise _ ‘The end vise is built the same way as the front vise. Tt's just longer. As a result, you'll need to change thesize ofa few parts, see Materials List. FACE. The most noticeable dif- ference is the length of the face @6" in my case). It spans the width of the benchtop which al: lows you to clamp longer work. KEEPERSTRIP. Increasing the length of the face also requires a longer Keeper strip. Like the front vise, it combines with the pron to form the back jaw. But beeause the side apron fits be- thoeen the front: and back aprons, the keeper strip extends 144 (he thiekness of the aprons) on each end, see Fig. 11 HOLE LOCATION. Ancther if ferenceis the location of theholes for the guide rods. To distribute the clamping pressure evenly, the ide rodsare farther away from the vise serew. ‘CARRIAGE. With the rods far- ther apart, the guide block and brace blocks also needto be longer, see Fig. 12. And, to make the brace blocks more rigid, the brace plate islarger ‘GUIDE RODS. But alarge brace plato reduces the maximum opening ofthe vise — ifthe guide rods are the same length as the rods on the front vise. To create the same size openingasthe front vise, the guide rods are 30" long. INSTALLATION. Aftor cutting eC Materials List ‘AA Keoper Strip (1) 194" xiVe"- 26" BB Face (two plces) 194"x5"-20"(rgh) CL Guide Biock(1)—194tx3"- 1814" DD Brace Blocks (2) 1%" x 246" (gh,)- 18/2" EE BracePlate(!) — 15°x10¥2"-%" Pywood FF Spacer Blocte (2) 194"x3"-6" GG Guide Rale(2) Wen" 444" HH Handle (1) ‘ia. Dowel -14" 11 Cap (2) eK We" We" Note: Parte cut rom (1) 194"x 9/2" 96" pace. © (1) 1Va"ia. x 2104" View Serew © (4) Va" x Aa" Lag Screws © (0) Va" D'Lag Screws © (6) #12 4112" Fh Serewe © (10) #8104" Fh Screws © (4) 2" Concrete Nails 1° (4) Concrete Nails © (2) 4"LD.x 30" Back Iron Pipe © (12) ¥4" Flat Washers (2) #634" Fh Wood- screw (Brose) (8) #1022" Fh Screws © (2)1"dia. O-Rings ee the rodsto length, the end viseis the end apron, see Fig. 18. installed the same way as the DOG HOLES. One inal changeis front vise. But the guide rails thedogholes.They'restill "apart. ‘that “track” the brace blocks are But they run down the length of longer. Icut them to fit between the bench to allow you to clamp the guide rail ofthe frontviseand larger projects. RL HOLES Jpnat wonton 2 BRACE BLOCK (91296" (gh) 1810) BRACE PLATE | [q3- Ps i ae tease GUIDE RAL lolovere2r-aatary ces OK LOCATIONS (orton) No.7 ShopNotes SPACER BLOCK 27