embellish
The Australian magazine for textile arts.
With Inspiration from New Guinea
projects | embroidery | mixed media | articlesiS
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It's Mine!
See more of Marilyn Townsend's work on Page 3ON THE COVER - White-lipped
Tree Frog (p8) by Penny Eamer
Measurements
‘en centimetres = 294 inches.
Acknowledgements
CONTENTS
fh, ISSUE 30 JUNE 2017
COLUMNS
6 Postcard from Bali - by Sue Dennis
48 Student Collaboration - by Sue Ferrari
FEATURES
3 Artist Profile: Marilyn Townsend - by Marilyn Townsend
20 Artist Profile: Maude Bath - by Liz Wauchope
28 Reader Postcard Challenge - by Lynda Worthington
30 Repetition: A Design Element -by Penny Eamer
40 Artist Profile: Kay Sorensen - by Kay Sorensen
44 The Luggage Tag Challenge - by Mahdi Chandler
PROJECTS/TECHNIQUES
8 — White-lipped Tree Frog - by Penny Eamer
13 Tropical Lizards - by Anne Mitchell
18 Bird of Paradise - by Cindy Cooper
24 Reversible Book Cover - by Maude Bath and Liz Wauchope
36 Recycled, Rust Dyed Necklace - by Penny Eamer
INFORMATION
2 Editor's notes
52 Book Reviews
54. Stitch Guide
55 Advertisers Index
56. Subscription Form
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EMBELLISH is an independent Australian publication
Arter Publications P/L ss a : 4
‘itveat Publications #7 teres
Atieor Pubcon Acraalecal ta)
Publisher
|actWear Pucatons Py Ltd
Editor
Lynda Worthington
Art Director
Ke Abana,
Senior Graphic Designer
Michele Davies
rildaves@bigpondnetau
Photography
The"how t"Poscarder“arice”
Photography are by the indica
‘contretorsuness athernize noted
Ramin assistant
Dawn Bord |
Proof Reader
eLancey Wortington
Contributors
Maude Bath Males Chandi Cndy Cooper
Se Denis Pen Eamer Sue Fran,
Ese Lav.Anne Mitchel, Kay Sorensen.
MantyrTountend Li Wauchope, Lea
Woetngton
Aavertising sales & marketing:
Lymca Worthington 03 9888 1853
‘theprsfartwearpubleaionscomau
Plies utraa
Pred Chin by Teppn Lec Pring Lik
ron derision Goran & Gch
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stand Cars diton
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embellish
yeNo30
hope you like our new-look cover! =
This issue we have some inspiration from New
Guinea, where you find wonderful rainforests,
‘mountains, orchids, gorgeous birds of paradise,
and a personal favourite of mine, the White-lipped
‘Tree Frog, For many years | was fortunate to have
the opportunity to keep, and breed, the White-lipped Tree Frog,
‘The photo below is of “Boot”, a very loud male in full croak in the photo. Their call,
is exceptionally loud—think drowning out the television. In fact, a caller on the
phone one day thought I owned a very large dog! No, just the frogs.
Penny Eamer has captured this species
of frog so perfectly in the fifth page of the
flora and fauna book we are gradually
creating with her. Some rather lovely
lizards are imprinted onto fabric by Anne
Mitchell, and Cindy Cooper has a cute bird
of paradise for you.
In addition, there are more projects/
techniques (of course), plus some interesting articles, including repetition as a
design element, and artist profiles of Marilyn Townsend, Maude Bath and Kay
Sorensen. There's even some wearable art to stimulate your creativity.
Check out the inspirational postcards in the "New Guinea” postcard challenge swap
(page 28), and don't forget to go onto our Facebook page and see all the postcards
to vote for your favourite,
have a new postcard swap for you: “India” You may choose anything relating to
India—landscapes, animals, architecture... The completed size must be postcard
size (A6—a quarter of Ad size, 4°x 6” approximately) and you may use any
technique, or combination of techniques to create it, so long as it includes textiles,
On the back of the postcard, please write your name, address, phone number and
email address (if you have one). Completed postcards should be posted to arrive
no later than 1st September, to “India” Postcard Swap, PO Box 469, Ashburton
VIC 3147, and include a stamped? self-addressed C5 or BS envelope (so that the
‘swapped postcard can be posted to you—C6 size can be just that litle bit too small
fthere is a postcard that is on the thicker side... Don't forget to add a note with
some information about your techniques and inspiration.
Some of the postcards will be displayed in Embellish #32 (December) which has
the theme of India, and all wil be displayed on our Facebook page www.facebook.
com/ArtWearPublications in a photo album at the beginning of December. The
postcard with the most “likes” on Facebook at midnight on 31/12/2017 will win
$100 to spend with one of our advertisers in the December issue
So, snuggle back and enjoy reading this fascinating issue of
Embellish!
Yours in textile art
lynda
Lynda@artwearpublications.com.au_
“international readers please email me and we can arrange a PayPal payment for your return postageTay
za
i er
My ‘Eureka’ moment occurred during a weekend workshop on
freehand machine embroidery which | attended in 1973 in England.
had studied art at school to 6th form (year 12) and again at teacher
training college, and suddenly had a tingle of excitement, realising
how stitches and textiles could add dimension to my work.
Wanting to know more, I immediately explored courses available
and handed in my notice (I was teaching at Primary School) to
enrol in a City & Guilds embroidery course at Bournville School of
Art, Birmingham, close to where I was living, This developed into
4-year course as | continued into Part 2, attaining distinctions —
only just managing to fit in my final exams before we were to move
to Australia, Because my husband had gone on ahead, most of the
packing, moving house and delivering a car and two children to
Heathrow from the Midlands was my responsibility. Luckily, | had
completed the practical side of the course, but the removalists were
not too pleased at my running before them gathering up bits of fabric
from drawers into black plastic bags!
On arrival in Adelaide, | took my new certificates and samples of
‘work to the Crafts Council. They put me in touch with George Gross,
‘who was just beginning as a fashion designer. He very trustingly gave
me work embroidering panels for his dresses on the most beautiful
fabrics. | also joined a Designers’ Collective, holding exhibitions
of garments—this lasted until we moved to Sydney and I began
teaching freehand machine embroidery locally. Two years later, we
‘were in Melbourne, where | held classes at several Bernina centres.
lsueNo30 embellishDe EL ee a
‘When | exhibited a cream silk quilted jacket with The
Embroiderers Guild, VIC, it was sold and a similar one
requested by the wife of the then Governor, Lady Murray.
On the Mornington Peninsula I became entranced
with old houses in the area—especially Sages Cottage,
a wooden slab- built house in a lovely garden, and a
favourite to which I returned many times to draw and
photograph. One of my first depictions of this cottage
was in acrylic paint on calico stretched over thick pieces
of card to give a panoramic view. These were hand
stitched to a background of cream linen onto which was
painted a tree and padded gate leading into the picture.
Ferns were worked in soluble film, and scrunched pieces
of satin were stitched for tree foliage.
After discovering disperse dyes, | used them painted
on paper in mirror image for the cottages. To draw the
outline, | filled an old fountain pen with diluted brown
dye, giving the impression of sepia ink. This worked
well and | was able to make a few impressions. Those
of The Briars Homestead were made into cushions as
well as wall pieces. These were a popular selling point
in exhibitions and the designs were used for an article in
the UK. Embroidery’ magazine.
My first book, Australian Creative Machine
Embroidery, was published in 1991 and came about
after students continually asked me to arrange my notes,
diagrams and samples into book form. I was fortunate
to find that Lothian books in Melbourne were about to
launch a new series in which | was the first publication.
It was written as a beginners’ guide with easy to follow
instructions and the first print sold 10,000 copies.
My second book, Australian Themes in Machine
Embroidery, depicting different projects from garment
decoration to bags and necklaces, followed in 1993,Detail ofthe Briars Homestead - disperse dyed cushion panel
Accompanying Australian friends in camping expeditions
to the Outback opened my eyes to new possibilities for
artwork. The intensity ofthe colours, vast areas of space, ;
different vegetation and animals were mesmerising and a
my sketchbooks were filled with ideas to explore. | began are
to use acrylic paint for the backgrounds on canvas, adding
‘machining before stretching the workconto a frame One
night in the Simpson desert we camped through a storm
were the colours took on an entirely different aspect.
‘After snorkelling on the Barrier Reef, and latterly in Port _/t@t decorated with soluble stitiching
Phillip Bay completed a series of paintings on stretched
canvas, with added frechand machined seadragons and
fish attached by hand stitching,
became entranced with the growths on the pier
supports, using glue, plaster and aquarium gravel applied
with a palette knife, then over painted. Foliage worked
‘on soluble film was often added. A gallery in Blairgowrie,
Mornington Peninsula, loved my work, which sold
‘well, until unfortunately the gallery closed. Most of my
artworks were 100 x 90 cm in size.
Having a piece accepted for the She exhibition at Walker
Street Gallery, Dandenong, | began portraits of successful
‘women and enjoyed working the detail on hair and dress.
After exhibiting with the Hurrah! group in Melbourne
for ten years, [left to join the Peninsula Studio Trail to
‘open my studio to visitors. With ‘mixed media’ now a
category in art exhibitions, I have been able to have acrylic
paintings with added embroidery accepted, whereas the
category ‘textiles’ was often excluded.
Having moved to a smaller house and garden, I now am.
devoting as much time as possible to my art and hope to
continue to teach, take part in exhibitions, write another
ook, and sell small works, prints and cards on Etsy—as
‘well as develop work with paint and stitching on paper!
as
aN >
Mountain Stream
wwrw.arlwecrpublicafions.com.cu sue No30 embellishBALI: each year thousands of tourists are drawn to
N this tiny island in the Indonesian archipelago. What
8 entices them to come? Is itthe beaches, 5 star resorts
and warm weather? Do they come for the temples and.
appeal of the traditional lifestyle?
For me, a return to Bal after an absence of 15 years
‘meant | could immerse myself in Balinese textiles of
the woven and batik varieties.
However in these modern times itis not so easy
to see weaving in action—to find a woman sitting
with a backstrap loom as we did many years ago
in Tenganan Village. The pressure to sell tourist
trinkets to make a living is driving the more time
consuming traditional production methods to the
brink of extinetion.
Happily, a fair trade business, established in Jalan
[street] Kajeng, Ubud has stepped in to promote
village weaving and dyeing practises—not just in Bali,
but throughout Indonesia, Museum quality woven
items, beautifully hung and carefully labelled with,
all the information of warp, weft and provenance
are on display in their gallery. Promoting natural dye
practices makes itis easy to fall in love with a piece
and tuck it into one’s luggage.
Im the town of Klungkung, once a Royal capital, the
covered market sells woven cotton ikat style fat
by the yard. The hardest thing is deciding what not to
buy. The shop assistants measure off the yardage with
‘wooden yard sticks, fold it neatly, and once again I am
deliriously happy!
If shopping is becoming too much, a short stay on the
Candidasa area to the east of Denpasar, the capital,
wrrwcarhweenpublicaionscom tswill relax and refresh your senses. Here small resorts
are tucked into rural village life, so on an ear
morning walk you can hear roosters crowing, see
contented cows tied to palm trees and watch school
children, in neatly pressed uniforms, practise thei
‘marching for Independence Day celebrations.
Back in the bustle of Denpasar we find a parking spot in
the busy area of the fabric streets. With the popularit
of patchwork and the use of Ball batik fabric, many
ofthe shops sell what quilters are looking for: So,
ignoring the dress fabric and polyesters, my friends
and I find treasures in the shops. While we deliberate
over purchases, our husbands have found a great local
coffee shop nearby selling strong Balinese coffee and,
the world's most expensive coffee, Kopi Luwak or Civet
coffee, This coffee is made from coffee beans which
have been eaten and passed through the digestive
system of the Civet cat. I stuck with regular B:
coffee and kept my money for more fabric buying,
Batik was once hand drawn, or produced by hand with
hot wax and caps, the metal printing plates used to
transfer the wax design to the stretched cotton cloth.
‘Today itis mass produced by modern screen printing
machines. The genuine article is distinguished by the
yaxy smell and the fact that it is hard to tell which is
the right or wrong side of the fabric.
‘The popularity of this unique fabricis not waning—
clothes, table wares, home accessories, sarongs,
scarves and more, are all using batik designs, Armed
vith our fat quarters and back at our accommodation,
‘we began rubbing Kathryn's collection of batik metal
caps and happily produced some unique fabrics to
remind us of our holiday.
Iwas amazed at the resilience of the Balinese to
retain their traditions while being assaulted by mass
tourism. For an island that is so beloved by millions,
Tam happy that maintaining traditions in the face of
‘moderns wants and ways is ongoing.Project #5: Flora and Fauna Book
The White-lipped Tree Frog
embellish \ssve No 30
BY PENNY EAMER
The White-lipped Tree frog is a New Guinea species and
we are fortunate that they are also found in Northern
Queensland, Frogs need all the help they can get, so
hopefully, the wider their distribution, the more chance
they may have of surviving as a species.
This is a quilting project, with painting and machine
embroidery. You have the option of painting or printing
the base image onto fabric. If you prefer not to paint
the image yourself, copy photo 8 onto fabric in your
preferred manner at the correct size and continue as per
instructions from that point.
It is probably easiest to follow the photos when
painting—don’t worry about being too exact as the
stitching will strengthen and clarify the whole thing,
(see photo 14).‘To construct the book, it is important that all six works follow the ‘page’
construction and size details in Diagram 1, below
A_E
26em
Fabric paints or dyes (see
Photo A for colours used);
Machine sewing embroidery
threads (see photo B, for
colours used);
Thin wadding;
Plain fabric for backing the
page;
Pins
lh som
iB Cc
Excess fabric. Do not trim until finished.
Page format for ALL 6 pages
METHOD:
Referring to Diagram 1 for final
dimensions, draw the frog (photo 1)
‘onto the white fabric, using a sharp
pencil or similar (photo 2).
Using dye or diluted fabric paint,
paint in a yellowy green area onto the
fabric as shown in photo 3.
‘www artwecrpublicalions.com.cu sue No 30 embellish »‘Then colour the whole area of the design (photo 4).
Use paint to mark in the black areas under the body, on
the mouth and around the eye.
‘Add yellow, white and a pinky brown to the image (photos
5&6)
Use opaque fabric paint to add white dots of reflections on
the nose, the eye, and anywhere else you think needs one
(photo 6).
Using opaque fabric paint, apply olive greens onto the
background between the leaves, as shown in photo 7.
Strengthen any areas you feel need more colour (photo 8).
Photo 8 will need to be of a relatively good size as people
have been invited to copy/scan it and print it onto fabric.
Place thin wadding under your work and quilt the
‘outlines of the frog and the leaves with black thread, and
add leaf veins. Sew some dark green leafy shapes in the
darker areas to suggest background foliage. Machine
stitch details on the frog's belly, eyes and lips as shown in
photo 9.
‘Adding more machine stitching to texture the leaves and,
‘background will bring the frog forward and contrast the
‘smooth skin areas (photo 10). Stitch more details to the
‘toes, ears and under the chin (photo 11).
Finally, stitch red variegated cotton on the two front
leaves and a vein or two on the back leaf. This takes the
total ‘green’ effect down a little. Add more detalls to the
chest of the frog and a few details to the eye, the back and
side of the frog (photo 12). Photo 13 shows the stitching
in detail,
When you have finished your embroidery, place your
‘work on top of the backing fabric and pin together.
Regarding the Scm left hand strip, you can use the under
wrrwariweenpublicaionscomts
laid fabric or join a different piece in at the edge of the
image rectangle.
Satin stitch over the join and it will look just like the other
pages. As per previous pages, run a line of zigzag around
the edge line of the page and then trim the piece to size.
Your frog is now finished!
Only one more page to go before creating the binding,
Issue No30 embellishsu f Surface Design
\ 4
7, Association
Innovation in Fiber, Art, & Design
Embroidery House
170 Wattletree Road, Malvern 3144
Al levels catered for
‘ak embgr@gpond atau
sSmenguveoy
whence ortMATERIALS:
White or light coloured fabric, any
fibre of your choice (cotton fabrics
should be pre-washed before
colouring to remove any sizing—do
not use fabric softener in the rinse
water);
Bowl of water;
Objects to place onto the fabric (1
have used lizard stencils);
Liquid Radiance colours, diluted
with water to suit the colour
strength for your project;
Dispenser bottles to apply the
colours:
Plastic to protect your work area
(plastic-covered cardboard is handy
for this—I have used a covered
board for my fabric piece—using
black plastic is important for best
heliographic effects);
Old sheet on your work table;
Rubber gloves;
‘Asunny day.
embellish Issue No 30
Tropical Lizards
ANNE MITCHELL
For this project, | am using lizard stencils cut specifically
for the purpose. By using stencils of your choice, you are
limited only by your imagination.
In summary, we apply Liquid Radiance colours to the
fabric, place objects onto it to form the design, and then
put it in the sun to dry. The UV rays of the sun will act
on the colours. The areas under the objects will become
lighter, while the fabric around them will become darker.
When the objects are removed, the design is revealed.
PREPARING THE COLOURS:
Pour a small amount of Liquid Radiance concentrate into a dispenser
bottle and add water to fill the bottle, For Heliography techniques,
between 1:3 and 1:10 concentrate to water ratio will give good results.
You can mark the sides of the bottle with a felt pen if you wish—or just
guess (my chosen method)—you really cannot go wrong with this.
Place a piece of stocking over the neck of the bottle then screw the
dispenser cap over this. The stocking will strain out any sediment that
‘may collect during periods of storage. Diluted colours can be stored for
‘months. It also helps you identify the diluted colour from the concentrate
‘when using pre-loved bottles (with the labels still on
them) for the diluted colours.
‘When ready to use the colours, open the cap by turning it
anticlockwise as far as it will go. Close it again when your
project is finished, and wipe the cap with a piece of damp
rag or tissue.
COLOURING METHOD - MULTI-COLOURS:
Wet fabric and squeeze out excess water until no drips
come out. tis OK to blot the fabric gently in a towel if you
are unable to squeeze firmly
Lay fabric onto plastic—by using a large piece of
cardboard covered with plastic, itis easier to colour the
fabric in the shade then carry it out into the sun.
Using the dispenser bottle like a pen, draw the colours
‘onto your fabric exactly where you want them (photo
1), leaving gaps that willbe filled in’ during subsequent
steps—stripes, wavy lines, random ‘patterns; circles...
‘whatever suits the design you are planning. Hold the
dispenser bottle at an angle to the fabricas you work,
Apply the colours so that they almost meet side by side
to minimise the possibility of overload. A gap of about 1
‘em between colours is recommended—you will work the
colours together during the next step.
Put on a pair of rubber gloves and use your fingers to
‘work the colours evenly across the fabric, blending them
as desired while you work (photo 2).nari
Wipe your gloves on an old towel regularly to prevent
transferring unwanted colour from one area to another.
Note: You can use a real foam brush to spread the colours
evenly, but the “Five Finger” method will save you having
to clean the foam brushes, and is wonderfully tactile
and qui
Check for excess colour: Ifthe fabric looks sloppy, or
feels very wet, you will need to blot out the excess colour
Thave used a strip of damp fabric and patted it onto the
base colours, flipping it over and working down the fabric
so the entire surface has been blotted (photo 3). There
‘were ‘stains’ of colour left behind, and these were rubbed
away using gloved fingers.
Alternatively, use another piece of fabric the same size as
the base fabricso you are blotting up the excess without
moving the fabric.
In doing this mop-up, you will create another piece of
fabric that will coordinate perfectly with your main piece.
Handling the mop-up fabric to create a ‘background’
fabric: Roll the fabric round and round between your
hands to blend the colours together (photo 4), then
leave it in a ball or a scrunched-up bundle (photo 5). The
colours exposed to the air on the outside of the ball will,
become dark, while what is enclosed will become light.
Flip the ball over a couple of times while it is drying to
have more of the dark come to the surface.
veo anhwecrpubleatBack to the main piece: While the fabric is still wet, place
‘your chosen objects onto it. Ihave chosen stencils of
lizards, using both the positive (cut-out) shapes, and the
negative pieces where the lizards have been removed
(photo 6).
Put in the sun, out of the wind, to dry (photo 6). This will
“work? best when the sun is highest overhead. The objects,
need to stay in place until the fabric is completely dry—
between 30 and 45 minutes, depending on the thickness
of the fabric you are working on.
Remove the objects when the fabricis totally dry
embellish Issue No 30
(photo 7). 1ron fabric to heat set the colours—% minute
for really strong colours as in the Heliography technique,
up to 2 minutes when colours are well watered down.
(Gay, up to 1 part Liquid Radiance concentrate to 30 parts
water). Hint: Using your iron on ‘steam setting will also
simplify the heat setting process.
Although Liquid Radiance is stable in
the fabric when dry and cannot be removed, it must be
heat set to ensure its permanence for washability and
colour-fastness (photo 8). The fabric will often feel a little
stiff when itis dry, but this is normal at this stage. The
heat setting process will relax the fibres and return the
fabric to its original softness. Ifthe fabrics still stiff after
ironing, that’s an indication that too much colour was
applied to the fibres. “Excess is the enemy”
‘A few more thoughts to inspire you—
Different colours.
Different stencil shapes.
Combine stencils with other shapes to suit your theme.
Use fabric paint to stencil shapes onto your blot-up
fabric, to complement your main design.
‘Things to keep in mind when planning your
Heliography fabrics:
Items that sit flat on the fabric will give the best
impression of that shape.
A sunny day will give the best results, but ifthe sun
doesn't shine, a halogen light (or even a fluorescent light)
will produce good results.
Work on black plastic to maximise the UV effects from
the sun and ‘heat up’ the drying process.
Best time of day for heliography is when the sun is highest
overhead. An hour or two each side of mid-day is perfect.
Ona breezy day, have something handy to hold the
fabric in place while itis drying—masking tape, stones,
shoes... whatever you can find that doesn't interrupt the
design or throw shadows across your work.
In the pantry: rice, pasta spaghetti, fettuccini, lentils,
popping corn—see what else you can find, Spaghetti
and fettuecini can be broken up to form all sorts of fun
patterns. [Note: Things that dissolve (e.g salt or sugar)
are not suitable for heliography.]
In your sewing cupboard: pin wheels, scissors, buttons,
safety pins, plastic headed pins,
In the toy box: foam shapes, blocks and more—it’s a
treasure trove of goodies in there!
‘And there's more: coins, plastic or fabric lace, doyleys,
pens, pegs, stencil shapes, leaves, flowers, rubber bands,
sequins, paper clips,
Hint: Ifusing freshly picked flowers or leaves, press them
between heavy books for a little while to flatten them.KEY POINTS WHEN USING LIQUID RADIANCE Stencils
“Excess is the enemy”: Because of the unique formulation of Liquid PR
Radiance, itis vital to apply to the fabric only what it will absorb. Gna
Fabrics should not feel ‘sloppy’ or ‘drippy’ when colours are applied AME
as this can result in ‘overload’ that will make the fabric heavy and ea)
stiff when colours are dry. Chery
“While there's moisture, there's movement”: After the fabric has
been coloured, the colours will continue to move through the fabric
while they are still wet. Form the pattern to create your end result,
then leave the fabric alone until itis dry! Do not fiddle with it! During
the drying time, the way you have handled the fabric will create
the end result and you will not see that result until the colours are
completely dry. The difference between wet and dry is amazing!
What is exposed to the air will become darker, while what is
enclosed in the folds or scrunches or under the heliography shapes,
will become lighter.
Non-toxic and non-polluting: Liquid Radiance colours are safe to get
‘on your skin and wash off easily with soap and water: Itis safe to
pput them into household drains. It is safe to use utensils from your
Kitchen cupboards in designing techniques. Whatever you use from
your kitchen (or other) cupboards can be washed up in the normal,
‘way for use with food afterwards
Permanence in fabric: When Liquid Radiance is dry in the fabric,
itis stable and cannot be removed from the fabric. Itis heat set to
maximise its washability and colour fastness when itis ary.
Into patchwork and quilting,
embroidery and other crafts?
Teach textiles and art at school?
Talk to me about our Liquid Radiance for:
‘Fobric designing - unique hand-laured fabrics oral your poe.
*Resyling your wardrobes simply ed economical you wont ballot
‘+ Workshops at your venue or mine, ond personal help by phone or email
+ Our DVDs and Handbooks wl supper you from oa.
SAFE - SIMPLE - ECONOMICAL
‘Australian Owned and Manufactured
ew arhwecrpublcatons.com.cu
embellishMETHOD:
Before using your Brusho Powders, make a small hole in
the top of each lid. used a metal skewer heated on the
gas hob. You may be able to make a hole in the lid without
heating the skewer.
Tip: The powders get everywhere if you are not carefil
‘Trace your design with a light box or draw your own
design onto the fabric (photo 1).
embellish tssve No 30
Brusho powders—
Vermilion, Yellow (or
Lemon), Violet, Purple,
Dark Brown, Ultramarine,
Prussian Blue, Sea Green,
Leaf Green and Black
(optional), small quantity;
Piece of cotton PFD
(Prepared For Dyeing) fabric;
Drawing ofthe design;
Black permanent pen;
‘White and yellow oil pastel
or wax crayon;
Masking tape:
‘Spray bottle with a fine mist;
Paint palette;
Paint brushes of small and a
medium size;
‘Sewing threads to match the
colours including a black
quilting thread;
Plastic sheeting to protect
the area;
Apron to protect your
Bath crystals;
Batting and backing fabric
slightly larger than the size
of your work.
Place your fabric on newspaper: Colour the eye with white
il pastel and the top of the head with yellow oil pastel
This acts as a resist as itis difficult to stop the colours
‘moving to the head. Also draw a few lines on the tail
feathers with white oil pastel
Start with yellow Brusho and sprinkle it onto the fabric,
A piece of paper held up will protect the darker colours
spreading too far. Sprinkle the powders lightly using
the photos asa reference (photo 2). More can always be
added whilst still wet. Lightly spray the powders. Push
some of the wet paint around with a brush ifyou wish.
‘The colours will blend beautifully. Leave the fabric to dry
thoroughly (photo 3).Mix the Dark Brown with water on a palette and paint the
branch and feet using a small brush. Let this dry,
For the background, mix the greens and the blues
with water in separate wells on your palette. Paint the
background using the various greens. Whilst still wet you.
can also sprinkle some of the greens on the background,
used a small amount of black mixed with a green to
darken the green. Sprinkle the bath crystals (not too
much) whilst your works still wet to the touch and then
let it dry. This adds some texture to the background. | also
like it ifthe fabric shows some unpainted areas on the
edges (photo 4).
Place the backing fabric, face down, on a table and top
with the batting, Place your artwork, face up, on top and
pin or tack all layers together evenly across the work in
preparation for quilting, Free machine stitch the outline
ofthe bird and some of the tail feathers in black thread.
Changing colours to match the painted area, free machine
stitch the bird and the background. The background may
be stitched in any pattern, Quilters may wish to machine a
leaf pattern,
| did find that some colour came off my hands whilst
stitching but | used very intense colours. Once campleted
I sprayed the work with a fabric protectant to help aga
fading,
st
Bind the quilt in your preferred method,
Inspi
Salvador, artist and designer
www.sabelsalvadorarts.com
\dy is part of group of five textile artists ba:
in Sydney called extraTexture. She loves all types
of textile artwork, mainly using paints/
Dee
Renae
now loves the freedom of this type of work.
Pete ete On Lene ea
Balmain Watch House, 179 Darling S
yee eR ened
ST Cn ey
o embellishAutumn in Japan Summer
Laced Notan Nuno Felting:
Maude Bath
uz
OPE
AUC!
Maude Bath first made felt in 1991 to further her
millinery practice. She had been buying old felt hats from
second hand shops to pull them apart and fashion new
hats from them, Then she discovered she could make the
felt herself, and started out doing it the old-fashioned
‘way: laying fibre down between two sheets of calico,
tacking them together, wetting and rolling, ad infinitum,
After this, she began “throwing it in the washing machine’,
but it would come out completely felted and about ¥ inch
thick. Eventually, she worked out her own processes—
combining traditional rolling and use of a front loader
‘washing machine, which resulted in beautifully felted
garments and accessories.
Her felting has come a long way since then, especially
‘once she saw Nuno felt for the first time in 1996, changing,Shades of Monet
collaboration with
Flona Trueman
her felting forever—bright and light nuno felts have
become her signature work.
Nuno felt is a technique which was developed in
Australia by Polly Stirling and Sachiko Kotaka in
1994.as a way of creating a light felt suitable for hot
climates, Nuno means fabric in Japanese, hence nuno
felt is ‘fabric fell, The wool is felted into the fibres ofa
‘woven fabric to create a single bonded piece which is
light, durable and has endless design possibilities
Opal Cardigan, Maude's first nuno felted work, shows
the way in which the wool shrinks but the silk doesnt,
producing lovely ruching effects. One way of creating
it is to felt the wool through the whole of the base
fabric, asin the Autumn in Japan’ jacket
Another way of making nuno is to felt wool into the
base fabric in specific places, leaving the remainder
transparent, One of her favourite garment styles is her
“putterfly wrap” a simple double square or rectangle
with neck and arm spaces. An example is Shades of
Monet.
Maude is a founding member of Tarts Textile and,
Arts Collective, Arts was her first venture into
vewr artwecrpubleatons.com.cu
Geometric jacket
Opal cardiganselling her work on any scale, and she says her time
with the Collective has changed her from a hobbyist
to a professional. She has taken full advantage of the
cooperative atmosphere, and has joined with other
members over the years to make collaborative pieces that
push the boundaries of felt making.
| am fortunate to be one of those who have had the
pleasure of working with Maude. In‘Summer’ jacket,
Maude has used some of my devoré silks as well as
painted and printed chiffons together with a variety of
felting styles. One of our most popular collaborative
styles has been the triple layer ‘Woven Weaves' scarves
‘where I paint and print three different kinds of silk, and
Maude felts them together in such a way as to make them
reversible.
x embellish Issue No 30
Fully Felted Notan, Ginko
Fully Felted Notan, Frogs
Maude says of her 14 years (so far) at TArts, that the best
thing is the interaction with and mentoring from other
artists, both established and emerging. This is true in
terms of techniques and inspirations in her own medium
of felting, and in professional pursuits such as marketing,
and promotions, sales and presentation,
‘Through serving on committees and being Secretary and
Chairperson at various times, TArts membership has
taught her organisational, financial and political skills:
It’s amazing what you learn, and not just in your own,
little corner of creativity” she says.
One of the main things for Maude was how this has all
added to her confidence, built by her colleagues, but also
by Tarts customers: “Talking to people who come in tothe gallery, hearing their responses to your work. is really
gratifying.”
In 2010 she was selected as the artist-in-residence
at Australia House in Niigata Prefecture in Japan. Her
very successful 10 week residency culminated in a solo
exhibition in the renowned Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennial.
She says it was, “amazing to be part of something so big:
the Triennial is huge, bringing in artists from all over the
world’, Each town in the area has at least one exhibition,
and there are tours every day taking people from one
to the other, Maude’s major piece was a Japanese shoji
screen: large sliding doors used for dividing a room,
‘As well as working towards her solo show, Maude’s,
residency was designed to include teaching local people
of all ages in an open class once a week. Before she was
allowed to instruct the children, teens and women, she
first had pass the test of suitability by demonstrating her
skills to a class of elders, men in their 70s and 80s. This
was a “tough gig’, as she puts it, until they relaxed into
and were “like a bunch of kids, throwing the felt around,
and having a great time”
Itstill took over an hour of serious discussion in Japanese,
‘with Maude in the room wondering what they were
saying, before they deciced she could have access to the
community. A deciding factor was the idea of Australian
‘wool and Japanese silk being united permanently in
‘nuno felting: a poetic image for avillage which has been
involved in silk production for ages, but had never seen
Australian wool fleece before
In fact, the fleece was such a novelty that they all loved
touching and stroking it, and one small child cried when
told he had to getit wet and beatit in order to make felt!
But they all had a lot of fun, and practiced their English
‘with the “rolling songs” that Maude made up for everyone
to sing while rolling up the felt, ver and over.
During her stay in Japan, Maude developed a process
{or using Notan design in nuno felting, Notan is a
traditional Japanese design technique involving
the use of positive and negative space to
create images, The most well-known Notan
design isthe black and white Yin and
Yang symbol.
Notan are usually made with
paper stencils, but the technique
lends itself beautifully to Nuno
felting. Maude's Notan nuno
felted pieces combine the
translucent quality of silk
or other light fabrics and
the opacity of merino fleece,
creating wonderful patterns
‘which play with light and dark,
vewnarhwecrpublcatons.com.c
Paper Notan are hand cut and can be very intricate, but
felted ones are a different story. Ittook quite a bit of
experimentation and hard work to learn how to keep the
felted piece ‘true’ to the designed image, so that it wasn’t
distorted by the process itself.
Itis important to refine the outlines of your image so that
the design isa large, simple one, because it will shrink and
lose detail in the process. Ithelps to design it in such a way
that you can roll tin one direction, soit shrinks that way.
Since returning to Australia, Maude has further explored.
‘what she can do with Notan felting, She has invented
some lovely Australian motifs using inspiration from
‘boomerangs and gum leaves, amongst others.
Maule continues to develop new items to make from
her Nuno and Notan felts, featuring jackets, scarves
and wraps, and ‘butterfly tops’ that are very popular
at TArts, She has also used the Notan in the way it is
‘most commonly used in Japan: as a stand-alone artwork.
hanging on the wall
Maude is also enjoying teaching Notan design skills and
‘uno felting techniques to metropolitan and country
textile groups, including Canberra and Melbourne.
Notan has become Maude's signature style at the moment.
She is the leader in the field, pioneering the combination
‘of Notan and Nuno, and the only person doing it
professionally, apart from the people she has taught, With
such beautiful results, I don’t think she'll be alone at the
top for long,
More examples of Maude’s work can be found at the
website www.maudebath.com.au
Woven weaves wrap,
Desert Pebblesod this di
r frien
LAY OUT:
Place bubble wrap, flat side up on your work table. Put
the dowel at the end and roll so itis just covered by the
bubble wrap, and then lay one of the pieces of batt on top
ofthe bubble wrap sheet. Cutoff some spots from the
bbath mat, or use whatever resist shapes you have chosen,
and place these ‘pebbles’ along the top and bottom edges
of the batt—not too close to the edge in case you have to
cut some off later (photo 2).
Cover the whole piece with the other batt Place strips of
lk fabric along the centre of the batt, overlapping some
of the fabrics, Then place the pre-felted strips you have
‘made over the joins in the fabric (photo 3). This helps the
fibres to travel through the fabric and join up with the
batts, securing the fabric to the felt.
ew artwecrpublcatons.com.ou
NUT AV A}
Poe aa eso
Needle felted batt, 2 different colours. To calculate
one ees aL
enough extra to fold over to make a pocket for the
covers to slip into. You will need 2 pieces of batt
Se eee ue ee
book. Maude’s diary measured 23 x 65cm, so she
cut two pieces of batt 46 x 130m, This allows
for shrinkage and will give you a firm, textured
Ect
Wool tops or silk and wool mix the length of the
project, 20micron or less.
Pre-felt shapes and strips that you will make
yourself (see instruction box).
Multi-coloured woollen yarn scraps, Itis okay if
they have some synthetic fibre mixed in to the
PRT ere neo ot acta
Se eR ee eC
eee ees
Scraps of different coloured fine open weave
Cee eee Ugo
silk chiffon or Paj, cut into strips, rectangles and
Pes
Rubber bath mat to cut up, or other non-felting
Ae ea eter cs
Cotes On Out er nich
Eeccanlig
Bubble wrap longer and wider than the felt piece
Seis
Synthetic fabric (such as sheer curtain material)
longer and wider than the felt piece you are
gs
Plastic or wooden thick dowel, or pool noodle
Cie cue NU Reo)
ae
Once t UU ek eu
een eee ac
Donut hers
ee
Corr
Pee un
Sie
Issue No 30 embellish »Position your pre-felted shapes over the top in a pleasing
pattern, Cut lengths of woollen yarn and place these at
varying intervals along the length of the batt (photo 4).
FELTING:
Cover the layout with the piece of sheer synthetic,
fabric. Fill your soft drink bottle with cool water
anda little washing detergent, and sprinkle over the
‘whole composition, Press down firmly to wet through
thoroughly (don’t rub—lift your hand up and down so you
don't disturb the layout). It should be flat and have no air
‘bubbles when you have wet it down completely.
Roll up the whole around the dowel and put the rubber
bands on the ends to keep the roll secure (photo 5)
Now comes the hard part—roll this back and forth about
1100 times (perhaps you could make up your own rolling
song at this point,
Gently unroll the parcel and spread it out. Do not lift off
the synthetic fabricon top, but look through it to check
that the pattern is still in place. Ifit needs readjusting a
little, gently do so, then place the dowel at the other end
embellish sue No 3
ofthe bubble wrapped layers and roll up
‘with rubber bands. Roll it 100 more times!
again, securing
Unroll the parcel completely, carefully removing the
synthetic cloth. Check that the design is in place—you can
often gently move errant bits by soaking with a little water
and moving with your finger nail. You can now also gently
stretch out any wrinkles.
‘Turn the whole piece over—ifyou have a spare piece of
bubble wrap place it on top and flip the two pieces over
together:
Divide your pieces of wool top in 3 lengthways (photo 6),
Place a third of the wool top the length of your piece in the
centre and gently spread to the edges to create a random
cobweb pattern (photo 7),
Roll up tightly, secure with rubber bands and roll again,
stopping every 100 rolls to check progress by unrolling
the parcel. Once the fabric and fibres do not move when
you gently scrape at them with your nail, the piece
is felted and ready for the second part of the felting
process—fulling,asset Romu Ne]
Pre-felt shapes and strips:
Pre-felts have been felted but not fulled. They have
some shrinking to go and will incorporate easily into
Sod
Because they have partly felted, they stay defined
eet eee eran
emer Ce ees
Dee oe ee aed
Dee omer
eRe Ud Cee
‘To make strips, take a piece of wool tops and divide
it into thin strips, Place these on bubble wrap, cover
Rimes Seca ese Ty
aaa
Follow the same felting procedure discussed in the
Pe eee moc
Soe ea meer ns
Pt ee eee een ee crt cy
Cn eee ne
PULLING
Itis very important when you have made your felt to full
it thoroughly. This makes the felt tight and durable and
will increase the surface texture of the piece.
Ina bucket of warm water, gently squeeze the piece as
you would ifyou were hand washing (photo 8).
‘Squeeze out some of the water and toss the whole thing
‘on the draining board of your sink several times (photo
‘9, Place on the work bench and gently pull and push it to
reshape itto arectangle.
Put it back in warm water, wash, and squeeze out and toss,
reshape, continuing until the piece is the size you want.
Soak the felted piece in a bucket of water with 2 cups of
vinegar for 2 hours, then wring it out, reshape and dry flat
Inthe shade,
MAKING THE COVER
Place a fluffy towel on your ironing board and then the
felt with the pebble side down—iron on wool setting and
trim to size (photo 10), Should you need to cut through
any of the resist ‘pebbles’ on the edge, remove the cut
resist and trim a further 3mm off the cut edge. Put it back,
in its pocket. This way you will be able to sew the seam
cencasing the pebble again,
Fold the felt around the book showing the side you like
Hand sew along the top and bottom edges of the
folds to forma sleeve, in such a way that you can take the
‘cover offand turn it the other side out for a change.
Photo 11 shows the nuno side, and photo 12 shows the
resist pebble side, Or, you can cut the felt, flip one part of
it, and re sew it together so that the front ofthe cover is
‘one design, and the back is the other (photo 13).
‘We hope you enjoy your book cover. It will be very sturdy
and last a long time, so don't forget to look at the other
side now and again,
ew arhwecrpublcatons.com.cu
www.thethreadstudio.com
fabulous
flimsies
gorgeous
Rent de
grab an edge at
the thread studio
ener)
Perse TES
Paneer aE
mail @thethreadstudio.com
Sra ere e tenn!Colleen FitzGerald (QLD) - A lone white chicken foraging in the lush undergrowth on Kitava—one of the main
islands in the Trobriand group, New Guinea, Spotted on a visit from a cruise ship. | have used hand dyed fabric
with free motion quilting as well as needle turn and raw edge applique. little Inktense darkened the leaves.
ORNITHOPTERA
ALEXANDRE
Heather Hooker (QLD) Wendy Seddon (VIC)
Many tribes gather for the “sing sing” festival, Each tribal group _| The butterfly design was traced onto calico
has their own colours and costumes. Faces are painted with and back-stitched with black perle thread. |
elaborate feathered head dress and beaded necklaces worn. I
have used wooden beads, feathers and various fibres to recreate
coloured the wings with textas then sealed
them with two layers of Mod Podge. The green
this dancer's face, Cotton fabrics and fusible web included. surround is water colourCarol Glasgow (NSW)
{As soonas I saw the title ofthis postcard
swap, knew I just had to enter (I had never
even heard of “Postcard Quilts” before, so this
{is definitely a first!) For three years, my sister
worked as a teacher ina remote outpost in
the Highlands of New Guinea. Every Monday
morning, she and her co-teacher, another
female, would leave the main centre, and
travel by jeep alonga very rough track to
the outiying village where the schoolhouse
\was located. They stayed there ina litle
cottage, with litle in the way of amenities,
and no backup, until Friday afternoon,
‘when they would travel back to the slightly
larger settlement. Some of her experiences
during this time, and her interactions with
the people, were amazing. On her return,
one ofthe things she often commented
fon was that in whatever drawings her
students produced, there, in the background,
always...the mountains, So, there was my
inspiration, Techniques: Fabric collage on
‘woven interfacing, free motion machine
embroidery quilting over soluble stabiliser,
Fabricused... mainly scrapsand Sinch charm
squates, all cotton, Threads were mostly
cotton, but some viscose/rayon and poly.
used about 15 different threads, mostly
variegated, with thread weight varying
from 50 to 12. Lots of changing of reels, and
experimenting with tension and needles! I
was so pleased with the result ofthe frst
postcard, Ihave since made four more.
lam definitely hooked!
Joy MePadden (VIC)
Bitums
Techniques: crochet and hand.
stitching, Inspiration: A friend,
just returned from Papua New
Guinea said “Bilum’ to me when I
‘mentioned the latest theme for the
postcard swap.
Kath Warburton (WA)
When I first saw New Guinea I
‘was unsure how to depict it until
I saw the atolls!! Wow. | created
this postcard using a Lumiere
painted background, needle
felting machine and free motion
stitching. Burnt organza was also
used for part of the clouds.wots Wale Zs seth
So RG
96S ve
ae XS BD SS
Repetition:
Repetition is one of the many vital design elements
that lend interest and richness to a work. Itis the most
valuable and widely used device to achieve unity, We are
all familiar with a uniform pattern (repetition) such as
the chessboard shown in top the left of photo 1. Neat, but,
visually rather boring,
For designs, other than uniform patterns, a variety of
repetition is more desirable in most forms of art and craft
Repeated shapes are more interesting if they differ in size,
tonal values and colour, among other things. Variations
originating from the chessboard design are shown in
and all are visually more exciting that the plain
‘one. There is no end to the possible variations, and a
computer comes into its own for this sort of ‘playing
All the above. however, are stil fairly regular when
compared with , which can be classed
as irregular repetition, yet can still be seen to have
elements of the original chessboard design. There is,
of course, more than one geometric motif in these
repetitions—the most obvious being squares and circles.
‘This irregularity adds interest to the designs.
Sa
)
Repetition:
Colour is without doubt the most commonly used
repetition device, but all sorts of shapes can be used as,
‘well—rectangles, curves, crosses, straight lines, wiggles,
angles, ovals and just about anything else you can think
of. You name it, it's acceptable to repeat. There are
different degrees of repetition—textile designs are perfect
examples of both patterned, irregular and repeated
designs, and one that is familiar to everyone.
Nature is a master of repetition, We are presented with
itall the time, yet we don’t always consciously see it. A
good exercise is to note all repetitions in anything you
are looking at, and listing (or tracing) all the variations of
each motif. Have a look at the following photos for both
regular and irregular repetition, within both natural and
manmade items:
See how many irregular shapes there are in
the Channel Country after rain. Let's break some of them
down. There are ‘leaf’ shapes and mostare similarly
coloured, sandy with green. There are the river shapes,
very irregular yet characteristic. Small trees, in lines,
clumps or singly. Colour repetition turning slightly bluer
as it recedes and size variation as well—just in case you
hadn't noticed that!oe
Repetition
Repetition:This clump of saplings shows
irregular repetitions, even though each
sapling is very different, There is enough
similarity in each tree to add interest and
variation,
In this tree trunk, we see an almost
negative/positive pattern, where bark shapes
have peeled off. The entire trunk had the
same type of markings.
Now let's look at manmade objects,
In packaging, regular construction subject to
damage and shadows creates variations that
make itan interesting irregular pattern,
Repeated circles, butall are
different enough to be interesting as a
composition,
Both nature and man played a part
in this enamel jug base—the age and stress
lines forming an irregular pattern. Similar,
yet different.
Machine stitched, circular motifs,
each different, yet united. Very small beads
also add to the circular theme,
Lichens show circles within cicles,
tonal values, pattern and colour.
embellish Issue No 3013
m1
embellish Issue No 3
Repetition:
‘These designs illustrate more
irregular repetitions, some more obvious than
others—see what you can find.
‘The marble painting obviously uses a
circular motive, and note that the circles do not
have to be complete, as the eye and the brain
will make up for that and they are still counted
as circular: This applies to all shapes.
Repetition is everywhere, so practice learning
to see it whenever possible. It will help you to
be more aware of how you use it in your work.
Once you get used to it, you will be able to see it
all the time.18
Remember to use it in your work and vary size, tonal
value, colour, texture, proportion etc,, making some
distinct and others less obvious.
Let's cheat here and make a computer generated,
simple, circular motif and then create few of
variations (photo 21). There's no end to possible
combinations you can make.
‘To practice, select a simple motif, perhaps a circle, and
design a work that utilizes as many variations of that
‘motif as you feel looks unified. Then try a similar work.
with a different motif, perhaps a rectangle.
Remember that shapes such as rectangles do not always
have to be the same proportions—they can be long and
narrow or square... whatever takes your fan:
You can add other different motifs to add interest and
contrast and to assist your design, but always keep your
‘main motif in mind.
Have fun and play—practice and observation is what
makes a master!
evn arhwecrpublcatons.com.cu
Importers of,
Aplisls Sills
& TEXTILE ART SUPPLIES
Silk Wholesalers
* Top Quality Grade ‘A’ Sills & Scarves
+ Specialist Supplier for Silk Painters, Dyers,
‘Textile Artists * Sole AU/NZ distributor for
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‘ Established 1991 Australian Owned
| * Gift Lines, Gift Tokens and Starter Kits
www.silkwholesalers.co
info@silkwholesalers.cos
Telephone: (08) 9844 91
Issue No 30 embellishNCLON Olle
rust dyed
necklace
aN aid
This simple bead making method results
in hard, strong and attractive, recycled
Peet Cue eee eee
Pree pacccnenies
MATERIALS:
A cereal packet (you can use
thinner card, but you will need
to roll each bead more times to
‘make it strong enough);
Scraps of rust dyed fabrics
(open work; thrift shop fabrics
are best—doilies, heavier lace,
muslin, and rust dyed cotton
string canalso be used). These
samples were wrapped around
a rusty machinery chain and
left until they reached a deep,
rich colour;
Paint, one colour (only if your
fabric is‘see through’);
Good quality PVA glue;
Optional—Sealant (you can
substitute the glue for this if
‘you do not have sealant).METHOD:
Cut the cereal card into strips of the
width each bead will be.
To prepare the card for rolling, you
will need to ‘work’ ita little. As
card rolls better one way than the
other, make sure you find the grain
ofthe sheet and then cut and roll
accordingly,
‘To work your strips, hold both ends
and run the strips gently backwards
and forwards over the edge of hard
table edge (with the printed side
towards the edge) to soften and curve
them (diagram, right). Make sure this
is not going to damage the table edge!
Once they are softer and easier to
roll, just keep working them until
they roll into a very tight tube. Keep
the strip longer than you need.
Unroll and apply agood quality
PVA glue to the strip. Re- roll very
tightly until your bead is the required
thickness and has at least five or
more layers of card
‘The more layers, the stronger the
bead will be. Holding the roll tightly,
cut off the remaining card strip. Wrap
string or rubber bands around each
bead to keep it tightly rolled while it
dries (photo 1: steps 1 to 5).
When dry, untie and paint the
cardboard with the colour you want
to show through your fabric (I used
Pthalo blue acrylic paint). When this
has dried, seal the bead.
Cut rectangles of your selected fabric
to fitthe beads, making sure they will
just slightly overlap (or exactly touch)
when rolled around the bead. Glue
the bead well and roll on your fabrics.
Leave extra fabric on each end
(photo 2) so that you can fold the
fabric over to cover the ends of each
bead (photo 3).
vw artwecrpublcatons.com.cu
“Saw” back and forth
Hold both ends firmly
embellish
ese No 3Ifthe fabric is too thick, neatly trim
itat the ends and glue a small ci
of thinner fabric over each end of the
bead.
Coat the entire fabric-covered bead
with glue to help itadhere and to
harden it.
Make up all the beads you need to
complete your n photo 4).
Leave them to dry overnight. Within
hours the beads should feel hard
and strong (if'a good quality PVA glue
isused),
Lay out your beads and add any pre-
loved beads to complete the desired
‘look: My example turned out to have
a ‘tribal’ feel.
‘Try different designs until you like
(photos § & 6)Embellish
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Issue No30 embellishARTISE PROFILE
a E ~.
he po
Kay Sorensen: Queen of Ice
Wx 40H (Shibori)SEN
Ihave been involved with fibres
and fabric for my entire life. Much
of what I have done throughout my
long career was the result of my own
personal research and development.
Tam known for my mastery of the us
of colour in my work.
Asan outgrowth of sewing for years,
acquired boxes of scraps, which led.
me to quilting. My early quilts were
very traditional, but they all had a
My work has been shown, published,
and has won awards in the United
States and internationally.
Eventually, | started dyeing and
painting fabric. My journey into
ice dyeing is a culmination of my
research, learning and creati
nny life of 77 years.
What you see in my Mandalas and
other ice dyed creations is my own
‘way of manipulating the fabric and
using the dyes to create one
designs.
earned the title Queen of Ice from
affibre artist who had seen the
ice dyeing everyone is dol
bestowed the title on meas the best
ofthe b
Iris Spring, A0W x 40H (Ice dye)
embellis‘My Elusive Dream,
(Magenta hand dye with batik)
| ove creating shibori fabrics which
make their way into finished works
of art. | work on a design wall and
create these pieces from a palette of
shibori fabrics | have dyed. My dyeing
is done in Florida, where itis warm
in the winter, and I finish pieces in
Wisconsin during the late spring,
summer and early fall,
‘This led me to creating a large body
of work that was exhibited at the
‘Anderson Arts Center in Kenosha,
Wisconsin, USA, from January 29th
to March 19th, 2017. There were
over 85 pieces in the show. Each
one started with white fabric, w
| dyed, painted or both. The show
% was well attended and critically
acclaimed.
While most of my work is for sale,
that is not why I create it, Creating it
isa passion and it is as important to
meas breathing,
Glory Aura, 43W x 36H (Shibori)
Ice on Fire, 43W x 36H (Shibor!)
2 embellish Issue No 30esntellish embellish
HAVE YOU JOINED OUR
eméelli
| | embellish
POSTCARD SWAPS
eon
AUD
ele
embellish °
Seplombe 2076
embellisi
Here are just a few of the
many postcards we have
received in our postcard
swaps,
o albums of all
‘on our Facebook page
ook.com/ArtWearPublications
Don'tforgetthere's aprize
involved for the postcard
with the most votes in the
current postcard swap.
For information on the
new postcard swap please
refer to my Editor's Notes,
on page 2.The Luggage
Tag Challenge
NDLE
Every year since our group Stitching
& Beyond started in 2005, we have
given the members some sort of
challenge—usually an image, word
or phrase to get people thinking, This,
time, we needed to do something
different because we had booked a
space, the Lightbox, at Salamanca
Arts Centre in Hobart,
It’s tricky space, tall and narrow,
butt is well it24 hours a day, 7 days
week. The challenge was used to
promote our biennial exhibition, Out
of Hand, for the month leading up to
the exhibition, so it had to bea little
snap shot of what was to come. Sandra
Champion came up with the brilliant
idea of luggage tags, which was so
good that we had over 300 responses,
and everyone agreed they were great
fun to make (photo 1, top right).
‘The concept was to use manila
luggage tags, readily available from
stationery sellers (photo 2), They
‘were going to be viewed from the
front and the back, so needed to be
double sided, but not necessarily the
same on each side.
Members were asked to bring along
their curiosity, imagination and
enthusiasm, and put these to work
ver artwecrpublcatons.com.cu
con two tags at a time—play with
negative and positive shapes so
pieces could be cut out, reattached
and used as a device to look through,
providing it didn't interfere too much
with the basic luggage tag shape.
‘An essential ingredient ofall these
projects, have fun and don't take it
too seriously. Photo 3, above, shows,
some of my tags. I used watercolour
pencils, crayons and pierced and
stitched. My tags in photo 4, above,
utilised Procion dyes, soya wax,
indigo and rust papers. Several
grandchildren got involved, too
(photo 5, bottom left),
‘The result was a cascade of luggage
tags: hand stitched, machine stitched,
crocheted, painted, printed, waxed,
dyed, woven, wrapped, pierced,
cut, torn, burnt, glued, folded,
recycled, embellished and seriously
manipulated! Materials used included
fabric, threads, feathers, snake skin,
metal, beads, papers, foils, paint,
pencils, crayons, wax, stickers,
coins, paper clay, and plant material
(photos 6 & 7, right),
‘Stitching and Beyond is a Tasmanian
based group of enthusiastic textile
and mixed media artists. For more
information about them and their
forthcoming exhibition, Out of Hand
2017 (28th July ~ 8th August), visit
wwwstitchingandbeyond.com
embellishClam Ue Veta
Lobe rel 5
aren
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Creative Designs
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and layout specialist
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No30 embellishBellaDonna Belle var. Angel's Trumpet
Student
South West TAFE Diploma of Visual Arts teacher,
renowned textile artist Sue Ferrari suggested to students
Jane Bear, Irene Pagram and Sue Tate they might
collaborate to produce a wearable art piece for CUT =
garments without patterns, held in Ballarat, Victoria in
March 2016.
‘The resulting piece was BellaDonna Belle - a garment
for three friends, Having its roots in the Artistic Reform,
dresses of the late 19th Century, BellaDonna Belle is
coat with a health warning. It was coloured with safe
natural dyes, but all the plants represented in it are highly
toxic: Angel's Trumpet, Belladonna and Hemlock,
‘The Angel's Trumpet coat was nuno felted using fine
merino on parachute silk and tissue silk and dyed in three
sections.
embellish sue No 3
BellaDonna Belle var: Belladonna
ollaboration
BellaDonna Belle va: Hemlock
‘The fully reversible coat’s Belladonna side was eco-dyed,
‘on habuti silk using invasive weed species.
With a name meaning ‘good woman’, Belladonna is truly a
devil in disguise, The Hemlock petticoat, worn as the thirdABOUT THE GIRL:
SECA ener
CO Rog st eaertiy
textiles, and devote
ned oma)
ito S Teale
is having fun exploring
Eon recn att)
Peeters corr
Irene Pagram works
Samer tie Ace
Cor anor
eco-printing since
ener
ecca ent Seated
PO meCRSNMLe Coie
Cienmten gto ta
OR ener nt eel
fixatives of the past.
Te CSE Muri
textile artist aiming to
ee ee
Pee ues gem
OEE Retin s
een ene
of the coat’s options, was created
from agifted bolt of synthetic blend
parachute silk
All plants depicted in BellaDonna
Belle can be both a poison and a
‘medicine. Itjust depends on how
they are administered or managed.
Ina similar way, a strong woman can
be celebrated or spurned depending
on her ego, ethics, morals, self-worth
and knowledge,
Jane said, “working on this project
with Sue and Irene has been many
things; a great learning experience,
as well as humorous, challenging and
enjoyable’,
For Irene, “working with Sue and
Jane allowed each of us to showcase
ew arhwecrpublcatons.com.ou
ae re
BellaDonna Belle inthe drawing room at Buda, Castlemaine, VIC
our individual skills, solve problems
together and create a beautiful piece |
could not have envisaged on my own’,
Sue said she has never had so much
fun as working with Irene and Jane."
was constantly in awe of their talents
and stretched in mine. Iam extremely
proud of our creation.”
‘With such a positive response,
it wasn’t surprising these three
accepted the next challenge to work
together. A Pocketful of Posies was
the second collaboration for Jane,
Irene and Sue, their model was fellow
student Cama Hanrahan,
The project was conducted by F
Project, an arts cooperative operating
out of the famous Fletcher Jones
Factory site in Warrnambool, south-
west Victoria, Participants received a
random bundle of fabrics saved from
the skips when the factory closed.
“We chose the iconic Warrnambool
Races as our theme. Our bundle of
fabrics had three trouser tops with
holes that looked like the clothes
‘moths had brought knives and forks
with them, However, the best part
of our bundle was the pockets, By
piecing them like overlapping flower
petals, we made a pair of jodhpurs
for our jockey. Her shirt was made
from lining remnants in a pattern
inspired by the formal layout of the
flowerbeds at the famous F] gardens.
The saddle was constructed from our
best pieces of trouser tops. With her
garden-inspired shirt and matching
embellish
enue No 3ee a eee ee)
cap, fashionable jodhpurs and elegant saddle we thought
ma might well be riding a filly called Pocketful of
Posies.”
But wait—there was more! Jane, Irene and Sue now had
a reputation for creating a garment that is more than
‘what first meets the eye. Having paraded in her jockey
outfit at The F} Garden Party in December 2016, in a
‘twinkling Cama removed her cap and shook out her
haar, Jane and Sue quickly de-constructed the shirt, and
pulled a beautifully embellished silk chiffon skirt from the
jodhpur's voluminous pockets, while Irene described the
process to the audience. The saddle turned upside down
to reveal a trug filled with chiffon blossoms that were
joyously thrown to the crowd—a pocketful of posies frock
fit to wear to any part
At the time of writing Jane, Irene and Sue are
collaborating again, this time with two more Diploma
students, creating a piece for CrossXpollinatioN 2017, an
annual textile festival held in Colac and district.books
Bohemian Macramé:
Unique Macramé Jewelry
Projects
Gwenael Petiot
IueRed Press}
ISBN: 9781908247155
RRP: $19.99
‘Author Gwenael Petit quit his job in France in 2007 and
travelled around South America, where he discovered macrame,
Some Peruvian and Argentinian friends taughthim its secrets
and he began selling his creations to fund his travel—for the
next four years.
Returning to France in 2011 he went from selling his macramé
at craft markets to debuting his designs on the catwallcin 2012
as partof the spring haute couture collection with French
designer Anne Valerie Hash.
“This book features some wonderful contemporary designs,
‘some incorporating beads and even cabochon
‘Weare introduced to the materials we will need ane! then
taken through the knots required ina step-by-step fashion with
very clear photographs to show us exacty how to form the
knots, Petiotadvises that we should carefully read each ofthe
stop-hy-step sections before starting the project itself so as to
completely understand each stage—taken bitby bitand broken
down into pieces, even complicated instructions become much
‘easier Another tip isto practice every knot before starting a
project
‘The projects start with relatively simple designs, becoming
more complex.as you move through the book. Bach step of
«project is carefully explained, accompanied by full colour
photos
‘The projects include earrings, bracelets, pendants, anklet,
wristhands, necklaces anda choker—something for everyone,
and nothing like the designs from the 60s and 70s,
Lynda Worthington
Stitched Shibori
Technique, Innovation,
Pattern, Design
Jane Callender
Pier
(Search Press)
ISBN: 9781782211419
RRP: $49.99
Ina word, "wow!"—This incredible book contains all the
{information a true beginner would need to getstarted with
stitched shibori work Jane Callender, a renowned shibor artist,
has created a true reference book which, while containing
traditional techniques, also delves into innovative stitch
techniques for shibor
Jane has divided the book into three main sections: Techniques;
Pattern; and Dyes, Under the heading of Techniques, jane
hhas described a multitude of different stitch resist methods,
‘The “how to" pages are beautifully written wit plenty of
2 embellish Issue No 30
corresponding photographs e.g the effects of changing stitch
lengths are displayed in photographs.
‘The diforunt stitch techniques are used individually or
combined with other methods. Motif development s explained
and explored, with many inspirational results, The techniques
section i the major section of the book, and is very thorough,
Including an ineredible number and style of techniques.
Pattem isthe next section, looking at manipulating the
structure of the resulting patterns—described accompanied
with many diagrams and photos.
‘The fnal section is Dyes—a vast amount of which is devotwd to
indigo vats and indigo dyeing, Other dyes are mentioned as well,
eg. henna, natural dyes and Procion dyes. Recipes ae given for
all
Beginners and experienced dyers/shibori artists will revel in
this book—sure tobe a treasured reference book.
Lynda Worthington
Raised Quilt and Stitch:
Techniques, Projects and
Pure Inspiration
Sylvia Critcher
earch Press)
ISBN: 9781782210146
RRP: $49.99
Don't you love a bit texture? Sylvia Critcher has revived some
textural quilting techniques that had almost disappeared, What
makes her work so different? The techniques areal traditional
(ltalian quilting trapunto and French boutis) but she has given
thema new slant—revamped the tradition and simplified part
ofthe process. She has combined them together and added
traditional English quilting and knotting to the mix, plus some
additional forms of embellishment.
‘The results very 3D and textural, and looks very complicated
Critcher advises that isin fact quite easy to do, n partan
‘optical illusion through stitch, Shealso cautions that itis
addictive.
Each technique i illustrated via photos and described in deta,
along with the equipment you will need and fabri, threads, and
yarns. There isa section on stitches to use, from basic to more
‘complex hand stitches, and a mention of machine stitching
‘To tach the reader how to create the wonderful textures,
Criteher steps us through creating small pincushion asa
starter Following this are nine more intricate patterns. For each
project, she has broken dow the design process into two oF
three stages, to make itas clear as possible. Templates for the
designs are printed onto pattern sheets, slotted intoa cardboant
pocket on the inside ofthe back cover.
Critcher doesn't just eave teat the projects—she has a section
‘on developing designs and another two sections which give the
reader inspiration through showcasing quilts originating from
her designs (some made by Critcher and others by a number of|
her student).
I think she's correct I think you wil find this addictive,
+ Else LawTextile Collage: Using
collage techniques in
textile art
Mandy Pattullo
(Bats
| sen
|) Textile
| Collage
8184:
Let's fae it, most of us have a fabric stash insulating the walls of
‘our homes. Some pleces will have special meaning, and others
‘we just “had to have", Others still may be too small to do much
‘ith, but too loved to throw ava.
Mandy Patallo shows us how to repurpose our fabrics to create
interesting collages, including clothing, portraits, quilts and
books,
‘The book s divided into five sections. The first covers material
diferent fabric types, colours, unpicking items, dyeing,
making marks, storage and care. The second section moves,
‘on to making a collage and what to consider: The third section
describes how to create portrait of people, animals and birds
"The next section concentrates on creating collages tobe worn,
Including upeyeling of old clothes, and the last section om
creating a book
‘Within each section, we are aed by diagrams and easy
to-follow instructions. Work from international artists also
features
‘This isa great book to led you into the world of fabric collage,
sand who knows?-—maybe a dentin that fabric stash?
Elsie Law
The Modern Natural Dyer:
A Comprehensive Guide to Dyeing Sill,
Weal Linen and Coton at Home
Kristine Vejor
ISBN: 9781617
In India and the USA, Kristine Vefar has learned so much
inthe past ten years about natural dyes and dyeing, She's
learned hundreds of ways to apply colourto cloth From this
‘exploration, she has created this guide which includes the most
accessible dyes and easiest practices.
In Chapter 1, Vojar gives an overview of dyeing with natural
materials, Inluded isa gallery showeasing the natural dyes
themselves, and the colours they produce on different fabrics.
Chapter 2 is about choosing the fibres to dye, and Chapter 3
shows how to set up a workspace and dye
‘The next four chapters contain aserles of projects dyed using a
range of her favourite techniques for home dyeing, Every project
features an item that is dyed—some using pre-made blanks,
‘while others dye fabric tobe sewn and yarn to be knitted (the
sewing and knitting instructions are provided), All up, there are
20 projects for home and wardrobe for you to try, in what isa
‘wonderful resource book for dyers ofl skill levels.
Ese Law
books
Fabricadabra
Simple Quilts, Complex
Fabric: Discover the Hidden
Potential in Your Stash
Paula Nadelstorn
hi
RRP: $29.9
Paula Nadelstern shows us how to create incredibly
complicated-looking quits using simple piecing and designs,
relying on the patterns in the fabric used to create the
complexity and illusions,
Nadelstern showcases many quilts atthe beginning of
her book, geting us to look closer to see how they were
constructed, Design strategies are then discussed, and
the fabrics that might be used —ineluding how much to
purchase.
‘A great range of templates Is also given, and discussion on
hhow to use them.
‘This book brings together many years of Nadelstern's
experience, from which we, the reader can benefit. Through
this book you will discover the hidden potential of your
current fabric stash (but you'll always find another reason
to increase your stash), understand the symmetry ina
particular fabricand how you may fool the eye, and how to
put itall together into an incredible quilt of your ovin design
that looks more complex to make than it really was.
Elsie Law
can do
BOO
* Mail order
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candobooks.com.au
catalogue
Contact us for
a free catalogue.
yee a kes
Tel: 1300 308 261
Cue eed
Isswe No20 embellish- Stitch Guide -
Fly Stitch
A B
e \ J
Cretan Stitch
A
Cc
D: sG
French Knot
Feather Stitch
A
embellish Issue No 54
Fly stitch -This stitch may be worked asa single stitch rasa row. The row may
bestraightor curved.
‘To work the stitch, bring your needle up through the fabric at A. Then take the
needle back through the fabric at B and bring it out again at C with the thread
between Aand B underneath the needle. Gently pull the thread to sit neatly and
take theneedie back down through thefabricatD tofinish offthestitch,
‘The diagram directly to the eft shows the stitch worked in arow,
Cretan Stitch - (pronounced “crete - an”) There are quite a number of,
variations to how you can work this stitch. I have illustrated one way. The
stitches are worked to the right and left of a central rib, with the needle at
90° to the direction of the stitched row.
‘To start the stitch, bring your needle up through the fabric at A. Take the
needle back through the fabric at B and bring itout again at C with the
thread underneath the needle and gently pull the thread to complete this
part. Now, down at D and up at E with the thread underneath, and gently
pull to complete this stitch. Next, down at F and up at G with the thread
‘underneath the needle. Down at H and up at and so on,
Possible variations: the needle is not at 90° to the direction of your stitching,
line, buts slanted at say 45° into the direction you are stitching; the two
central guide lines are closer together; the two central guide lines are moved
closer to the outer edges; stitches may be made very close together, or quite
far apart; and so on.
French Knot - After coming up through the fabric, you may wind the thread
around the needle once, twice, thrice, or more. Keep some tension on the thread.
(Ifind 1 need two hands) and the knot touching the fabric, re-enter the fabric
close to where the thread comes out, taking the needle carefully through to the
backand gently pulling to tighten the knot.
Feather Stitch «This stitch may be worked in straight or curved rows. To work
the stitch, bring your needle up through the fabric at A. Then take the needle
back through the fabricat Band bring itoutagain at C with the thread between A
and B underneath the needle. Gently pull the thread to sit neatly and take the
needle back down through the fabricat D and upat Eto continue in this fashion
for thelength of stitching required,(02) 4943 808
Spaibe. BATIK
0406
7 557
rant Re
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