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    The Guardian Feast - 9 March 2024

    Uploaded by

    Julio Ferraz

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    of 24
    Peanut butter noodles Meera Sodha's vegan ramen Feast Issue No.320 Saturday 9 March 2024 Guitian Yotam Ottolenghi Felicity Cloake Egg-droptidonwith Cremebrulee seaweed furikake — masterclass Thomasina Miers Benjamina Ebuehi Leek spinachand — Jammy-coconut cake sheepscheese pie Rachel Ros dy Rukminilyer Puglian rice, potato Paneercurrywith and musselbake tomatoes and ginger Grane Dent Sami Tamimi ‘Classy, experimental Palestinian maqluba and alittle smasher of with herb salad a place to eat dinner Yotam Ottolenghi Like everyone else currently eating their way through to spring, I've been thinking alotabout comfort food recently. What makes something tick the comfort food box will vary from person to person, but, for me, there are a few obvious wins. The firstis eating from a big bowl-Ijust love cupping my hands around the base, warming them as I go, Noodles are another big yes, True, ‘slurp’ is perhaps not the most gracious of words, but I'm going to own, it fully, chopsticks in (my now warmed) hand. Eggs score highly, too, and broth is never not abrilliant idea. Bring all these together, and think I've founda dish thats very comfortably going to see me right through. Q weoeaian © vson (] swrntee oorr tee Prep tO min (Cook 30min bundles frozen ton about 7650) Fer tho broth 10g dried wakame Sahiedshitake mushrooms | Bistsp soy sauce {tbspmiin ‘Yatsp sesame ol Aespunitemiso paste Yogehives, ney chopped 2eags, beaten Fer the furiake 1s uncooked whiten ar Kind wiles) Tried shitake rmashroom Tsp white sesame seeds 1 Shae no, oughly tominto Jem pecet Flaky Sea sat Egg-drop udon with seaweed furikake Get your cupboard stocked up with afew basic Japanese ingredients, and this meal will be pretty much ready and waiting for you. e's big ‘on lavour and takes minutes to prepare. Make more furikake than youneed:it gets ite name from the ‘Japanese word for sprinkles, and it ‘can indeed be sprinkled overall sorts ~ eggs, roast veg and leafy salads. First, start the broth. Putthe wakame, shiitake mushrooms anda litre of ‘water ina medium saucepan and cook ona medium heat, just below simmer, for 20 minutes, ‘Meanwhile, make the furikake Put the rice shiitake, sesame seeds and noriin a small pan, then toast ‘ona medium heat for five minutes, until the seeds turn golden. Transfer toa spice grinder or mortar, then pulse or grind to a coarse powder: the grains of rice should be mostly broken down, but still have some texture, Stir ina teaspoon of flaky sea salt and set aside. Bringa medium pot of water to boil. Drop in the frozen udon and cook fora minute, until they have separated and are a uniform colour. Strain into a colander set over the sink, wait for any excess liquid to drain off, then divide the noodles between two bowls Stir the soy, mirin, sesame oll and ahalfteaspoon of salt into the broth. ‘Transfer three or four tablespoons of broth toasmall bowl, add the miso, stirto a smooth paste and set aside, Bring the broth in the pan back toaboil. Add half the chives, then, in asteady, circular stream, slowly pour in the beaten egg -it will set inibbons in the hot soup. Take off the heat and stir in the reserved miso and broth paste. Divide the broth between the two bowls of noodles, sprinkle the remaining chives and a good pinch of furikake on top, then serve. o—:) Classic retested Legume noodle soup Prep 1Smin ‘This heartwarming, thick soup. Soak Overnight is Iran’s answer tominestrone. Cook 1Iw20min t's called ash-e reshteh, and is Serez so wonderfully wholesome and nourishing that it leaves a real MSgdredchchoess, smile on your face. found reshteh, Bisa sealed rcldvaty Goodies ran iranian grocerin Sistine oie London but inguine wil dothejob tandbae” fet bears sladincaig iuataswell poder FEGCSME” Dainandsnsethesonedclctpes oe and butter beans, then put themin ‘Sogclarifed butter tyro separate pots, cover in plenty of 2largeonions fresh water and boll until they'te steed almost cooked - depending on the WOgatiedoves, get the pulses, this may take pesiedandthnly anywhere between 25 nd 55, ‘Witepground minutes, Once both the chickpeas mere and butter beans are ready, drain Saltandtick them intothe same colander, _Inalarge, heavy-based pot on gear a medium heat, met the butter, ‘bour2tives | then saute the onion and garlic for eoeable stock 20 minutes, stirring often, until Eeseeps ter stand golden brown sin the See? FRimeriadd satan peppe to eee ate thn transfer ath the 100g spring onions, mix to.a dish. once Se athe ute beans and chckpess Beonyspen tothe emainng onion mixinthe feeble” Foc tnenstrin he spt pesand 1S0gsouredcream, stock, and simmer for 30 minutes, plusTespoerporten skimming off the froth occasionally, ma wieds until the peas are tender. Add the aibuwtewne Hei, pny onions and spinach EE ied strand ook for 5 minutes onges ifthe soup seems very thick, adda little extra stock (or water to loosen, ‘Taste and season generously. ‘Add the noodles to the pot and cook for about 10 minutes, until they are just done. Stirin the soured ‘cream and vinegar, and adjust the seasoning to taste. Ladle into bowls, garnish with the extra soured cream and the reserved ‘cooked onion mix, and serve with the lime halves on the side for squeezing over. Ons ‘candi ity 9 Maing Ask Ottolenghi 4 What touse ro instead of soy SF am vegetarian and allergic to soy. So many fabulous-sounding recipes contain soy sauce, tamari or miso: are there any viable substitutions? Leslie, Las Vegas, US Soy sauce, tamari and miso areall big flavour enhancers with tons of umami depth, so that’s what you want to recreate, As you're vegetarian, some of the more common alternatives won't work, though, because many contain fish: Worcestershire sauce, say, or oyster or fish sauce. That said, there are plenty of vegetarian oyster and fish sauces out there these days, as well as no-soy soy sauce and soy free miso paste made from chickpeas, Thinking beyond such “free-from’ alternatives, you want to be looking atthe likes of balsamic vinegar (as. aged and rich as you can afford), tamarind paste and coconut aminos. All have the sweet-sharp-sour combination needed to hit the notes that soy, tamarl and miso strike so loudly. Molasses, too: pomegranate ‘or date molasses both bring a rich, sweet-tangy depth toall sorts, In terms of stocking up the cupboard, meanwhile, try dried ‘mushrooms and seaweed. Add either of those to soup, stock or whatever else you're cooking to bring areal ‘umami kick to proceedings. Black garlic likewise: add 30g of it to 200g thick yoghurt, blitz with alittle Jemon juice, salt and a couple of tablespoons of oll, and any roast veg you drizzle that over will be very happy. Oradd sliced black garlic to everything from flatbreadsto risotto. ‘And don’t forget the quickest, easiest and most umami-ish supper of ll: Marmite pasta! The pairing of Marmite and parmesan (as well as butter and pasta) produces such a Inuge flavour hit that no one will miss ‘miso, tamarior soy. Do you have a question for Yotam and the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen team? Visit theguardian.com/ask-ottolenghi or: ) Thomasina Miers Sunday best As my eldest daughter approaches teendom, | am realising the full gamut of motherhood. Among other things, she, as I did before her, approaches her mums belongings as if they were her own, andasa result I am increasingly appreciating my own mother's patience and unconditional love. I think little says love more thana pie, and lam hoping that this simple but delicious one will do the trick. e0e = 35min Cook 20min seves 6 2009 wid vice Fograsins 2504 caulitower, finely chopped 2009 eae, ‘oasely gated ‘50gredeabbage, ‘core, finely sed sedchopped Brodihes, Fly sce ‘1209 cooked goon lente handful mint leaves roushly chopped ‘Thandfl eorander leaves, roushiy chopped Forthe almond Wild rice and cauliflower salad ‘A vibrant, nutty salad witha beautiful, ochre-coloured dressing. ‘Cook the rice in salted boiling water, ‘tum off the heat five minutes before theend of the recommended cooking time, cover with a lid and set aside, ‘Tomake the dressing, put the ‘sunflower oi ina small frying pan ‘ona low heat, add the almonds, half the honey and half the turmeric, season generously and cook, stirring, for seven to eight ‘minutes, until the almonds turn bewitching, pale gold colour. Lift them out with a slotted spoon, pputon asaucer and set aside, ‘Add the raisins to the pan of hot oil, heat gently until they puff up into balls, then transfer with 2 slotted spoon to a second saucer. ‘Add the onions to the oil, season ‘generously and cook until golden. Oncetthe rice is tender, drain it of any remaining liquid (most of itwill have steamed away inthe pan) nd put ina bow! with ll the ‘other salad ingredients except the ‘almonds and onions. Roughly chop thealmonds. Tip the onions and their cooking oil into a jug, then ‘whisk in the rest of the honey and turmeric, the olive oi, lime zest and juice, Season generously, then use to dress the salad - the rice and lentils will absorb the dressing. ‘Taste again, adjust the seasoning, decorate the salad with the chopped almonds and serve at once. ‘The Guardian Saturday 9 March 2024 ‘440g spinach eaves, ‘550g potatoes, pected andestinto Bien ace ‘40g outer Ttospeatve ot Yenutmeg, rated ‘small bunch fresh egg, besten 250m mile ‘head gat, broken Into cloves 2prigs fresh ‘A good pie manages to feel indulgent, comforting and nourishing allat once. ‘Top and tall the leeks, cut them in half lengthways and wash them thoroughly under the cold tap. Wash thespinach, too, then leave it ina colander to drain. Bring a pan of salted water to a boil, add the potatoes, simmer for 10-12 minutes, until tender, then drain, While the potatoes are cooking, ‘make the garlic cream. Put the milk, garlic and rosemary leaves in asmail pan and heat until the milk quivers. Leave the gatlic to poach gently for 15-20 minutes, until the cloves are tender, then peel (the skins should slip off easily) and set aside to cool in the milk. Once cooled, add the cream, then blitz smooth, Cut the leeks into half-rounds.. Melt the butter in a casserole or large wok on a medium-high heat. Add the oliveoil, leeks and thyme, season generously with salt, pepper and nutmeg, then fry gently for 10-12 minutes, until the leeks begin to soften, Stir in the spinach, cook for a further five minutes, until wilted, then sti the drained potatoes into the leek mix. Pour the garlic cream into the pan, add the cheese and lemon juice, then season to taste. Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan) ga8 6, and tip the mixture intoa baking dish, Roll out the puff pastry tocover the dish, lay ton top ofthe filling and crimp around the edges. Brush the beaten egg all over the pastry, then bake for 30-35 minutes, until the pie is golden and puffed ‘up and smells tantalisingly good. Serve hot with a green salad, of with the wild rice and cauliflower salad opposite. rm @ Rukmini lyer Quick and easy This is a weeknight take on my mum's incomparable malai kofta. You blend homemade paneer with coriander and spices until fluffy, roll the mixture into balls, then deep-fry and serve with a spiced cream sauce. In this version, you fry shop-bought paneer before serving it with a similar sauce, which includes peas for colour. My top tip, which comes from food writer Roopa Gulati, is that you can improve shop-bought paneer no end by giving it a quick soak before use - itrehydrates and hasa lovely, fluffy texture, rather than bouncing off the plate when you try tostab it witha fork. Prep 15min Cook 30min senes 4 nsgpanes cx 3 thsp neutral ot ‘large white orion, eoled and finaly Sheed Sem ginger, peeled and ney grated 2oatieclves, pecled and finaly grated 2tsp corner Seeds tes ‘ground 2p around cumin ‘tsp cil fakes sp sea salt Makes 144009 tin hopped tomatoes 100M singlecresm, plussomenta fe fnieh 2009 frozen peas ie cad Ypeutinto Flaky seat, 15g esh coriander, roughly chopped, Freshy cooked bosmatnee, or fatbresdsichopas, tovewe Paneer curry with tomatoes, ginger and cream Ifyou haveany leftovers, this curry iseven nicer the next day; t freezes well, too. Put the cubed paneer ina large bowl of boiling water, leave it to sit for 10 minutes to soften, then drain and pat dry with kitchen roll ora clean tea towel, ‘Meanwhile, heat two tablespoons of the ol in alarge frying pan or ‘wide-based casserole pot, add the ‘onion and stir-fry ona medium heat for 10 minutes, until golden brown, ‘Tum down the heat to low, add the ginger, garlic, pices and salt, and cook, stitting, fora minute. ‘Tip the contents ofthe pan into a high-speed blender or food processor, add half the tinned tomatoes and blitz smooth, Return to the pan ‘with the remaining tomatoes and single cream, bring toa boil, then ‘turn the heat right down and leave to simmer for 10 minutes, Once the sauce is back on the hob, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil Ina second large frying pan, add the paneer cubes and fry for a couple of. minutes on each side (usually do iton just four sides), until crisp and. golden brown, ‘When the sauce has had its 10 ‘minutes, stir in the peas, leave to ‘cook fora further five minutes, then stirin the paneer, Add the lime juice and saltto taste, Drizzle the curry with the extra 5oml single cream, scatter over the fresh coriander and serve hot with lime wedges on the side and some buttery rice or flatbreads alongside. rx) @ Meera Sodha Peanut butter The new Panem vegan e0o0 Prep 1Smin__ Gochujangis a sweet, spicy Korean, Cook 50min chilli paste that can now be found, sever 4 alongwith tempeh like the Tofoo brand), in larger supermarkets. Sbmarashaor, 7 utall the curry paste ingredients, Bostro0g °° and two tablespoons each of piibe OES a teen ee ea me om SREY Glue and ito smooth past writing this column had changed the steed tha rest ‘Next, make the “ ‘Sheard red xt, make the ramen broth. way I cook and eat. | said that | now eat re Put three tablespoons of rapeseed 5 5 ; a oilina large saucepan ona from the store cupboard a lot, and that (309) pesedoné medium heat and, once hot, add ice, beans, tinned tomatoes and the Sepxucnplew | the spice paste and fry, stining universe of condiments and sauces are pesedasesah jensponngor the sugar and cook abigger, more important part of my tbsp goctujang for two minutes more. Transfer a kitchen - in part to create a foundation Bison Soy bermaipatitoonesiae. but, crucially, to add flavour tomy meals. Gregmveterthe — stirthe peanut butter into the Ofall the store-cupboard ingredients, Rapeseed ot Leer peanut butter reigns supreme. It adds fersheramenand Bring up to a simmer, then cook ron on low heat for 10 minutes. arich, velvet fattiness, not to mention Zip ae alovely savouriness (that is not too sp tay sme according tothe packet instructions, overpowering), andisa delicious, Feoont a Ca een natural thickener, as in today’s ramen. Plimes,sesedand Add little oil tothe colander, a seades 1958 1coat the noodles, sothey Hepramengeee* dont stick, then set aside. Gimeno, Tocookie tempeh, put two mace wit anit lespoons of rapeseed oil ina 20gpakehel, nonstick frying pan ona medium ‘oprresncormaar, heat and, when hot, add the tempeh opred ‘mince and fy, siting often, for five minutes, until crisp and browning. ‘Add the reserved curry paste mix, the remaining teaspoon of sugar and the extra half-teaspoon of salt, fy, stirting, for another three or four ‘minutes, then take off the heat. Toserve, divide the ramen broth between four bowls, then divide the noodles between the bowls. ‘Top with the shredded pak choi, crumbled tempeh and coriander, squeeze the juice ofa quarter of a lime over each portion and serve with another lime wedge on the side ao io @ i E H is Sami Tamimi Ramadan in Jerusalem holds special place my hear and evokes Blend a spituality, Eemmanity and tation, ‘Nvbranesemosphre fwops the ty, and the ‘Sreets come alive with imartetsseling festive {od snd decorations, Prep min Soak 30min Cook The20.min Sones 1609 basmati rice ‘large chicken gs (0) Jom sonfiower ot Ssitand black pepper ‘large aubersne 430), ‘eauttower (8509), brken int age eets 253 medium-sized ripe Sem:thiek llces 4Targe gar cloves, Boel and havea ‘SSom| chicken stock ‘etsp ground turmeric ‘tsp ground ramon ‘isp ground alsptee cardamom pode slightly erusres 309 toasted almonds ‘tospchoppedparstey 350g Greek yoghurt ‘small gate love, peeled and crushed Sats ted mine Shit eaves sheced [Watosp lemon ice vatsp sat Maglite ranslates to "pede down which perfectly descbes the resentation ofthis {fnationlPalectnn ish 1s typically made vith ayers free, vegetables and meat and ranged in such 2 way that, when the ash [Sfiped ont a platter, theres ends upat the bottom andthe meat and vegetables on top. ies comforting heart, Impressive ane perfect for Ramadan gatherings Heat the oven to 240 (@20C fanvoas Wash theres then eo tn ‘bon of cold water and ‘a halfteaspoon of alt for at eat 30 mites. Putthe chen on anoven ray lined with ‘reasproot paper, 264 {wo tablespoon fo ‘teaspoon of alt and Sood grind of peppe, toss to coat, then roast for 30-8 minutes, Meanwhile, pat he ‘aubergine and catifower inabow, sed the rest of heal dhee-quarers oF 2 teaspoon of salt and 39000 grind of poppe, nde wal. anstorto ‘second ned tray and bake for 2 minutes, “int golden Brown, When the hike i cooked ved the mest Int are lees,

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