For you and your new Viking ‘We have prepared this booklet to let you know how to operate this sewing machine and how to make use ofall its sewing possibilities ‘We hope you will get many pleasant hours with your new sewing machine. HUSQVARNA AB, SWEDEN US Factory Subsidiary: Viking Sewing Machine Co, Inc., 2300 Louisiana Ave. North, Minneapolis, Minn. 55427. In countries other than the U.S.A. and the U.K., Viking sewing machines are sold under the name “Husqvarna”. For practical reasons the illustrations in this manual show machines with the Husqvarna name. We reserve the right 10 ch without any provious mate, or make modifications in the design or appecrance of the machine, which da not negatively affeet the funtion, the machine equipmentTable of contents Accessory box, contents ‘Adjusting the stitch patterns ‘Adjstment possibilty when Sewing Duttoutoles Appliquas esting Bling hens Bind hem, elastic Blindstitching, genera Bobbin case . Bobbin insertion Bobbin winding Bourd edges Bridging site... Bringing up the lower threed Button reed Buttons, sewing on « Buttonhole knife Buttosholes Battonkoles, reinforced - (Care ofthe machine (Changing the ight bull Changing the needle ‘Changing the snap-on presser feet (Changing the special presser fet (Changing the sbich programmer Choice of needle Cleaning Connecting the machine to the power outlet Comtents of aceesiory box ‘Correct and incorrect thread tension Daring cocreesneese Decorative stitching - Doubie-action stitch Double overiock stich « Eiiye quite Blastie blind hem =. Elastie knit suteh (overiock) Elsatic stag tite Extension table Extea accessories Feed dog, leaning Feed dog, lowering « Foot contra 57-58 8 2 18 oa 36 38 = 66-72 a Free arm Freehand embroidery « . Gathering scsesss ces cs ese BB, Genesal hints Glide plate Hemming Joining acd finishing in one ‘Joining and overcasting esc stitch foverioek) Lace, sewing on -- Ligiting -- Lingerie stitch LLowesing the feed dog Cover thread, bringing up « Lowver theead tension Lower threwd, heeading . Low gear (power gear) Main switch Maintenance hints Mending s+ Needle and theead [Needle arsariment Needle, changing Needle description Neco stop-rght postion Open arm Overeasting ees eee (Overlock (elastic it sti) Packing the machine . Patter scale Farcem stitching agin he maccine to the power outlet : Poiat de Paris emstitch Pawer gear «low gear) Press bar lever = Presser feet Presser foot for Sight fabrics. Presser foot pressure. Putting the machine away Quilting guide . Raised seams -. Rapid seam guide Reinforced buttozholes Reinforced zig 202 {Ric Rac) « D797 5354 2 Removing the bobbin case BR Reverse feeding isting) 2 Ric Rae a Roller presser foot .. v Seam ripper eee : 52 Seams on stitch programmers 34.35, Selosting the stitch Sener’ Serpentine 8 Sewing is zippers 12627 Sewing on buttons .....cscsee 5B Shicring stven 2 aa Snap-on presser feet, changing, 20 Special presser feet, changing 29 Standard presser foot « 18 ‘Sitch length dal : 2 Stitch progremer, changing 34 Stites programmers : 35 Stitch regulating 2 Sitichselector . 22 Stiten width dial... 2 Stop-right position 7 Stenight stitching 24 Tensions 1617 ‘Terey cloth (owelling} 32 ‘Thread and needle 10 ‘Thread enters 6 Threading lower thread sess scseee ‘Threading upper thresd uM ‘Thread eension - 1617 Thieestep zigtag soso BD Topstiching 38 Transmission (power pear) vss B ‘Triple lock sietch ste (elastic straight stitch} 38 Unpacking the machine D6 Upper thread tension 16 Upper thread, shreading 00000) Utlity stitch and pattern presser foot 18 Views of the machine - ra Zigzag, renorced i as) 42 ‘Zig-zag stitching 28 ‘Zipper foot 1 26 Papper insertion 26-271. Top thread guide 2. Dial for the presser foot pressure 3. Upper thread tension dial 4. Thread tension dises 5, Thread take-up lever 6. Face plate 7. Thread guide 8. Thread take-up spring 9. Front thread guide 10. Needle bar 11. Presser foot screw 12. Presser foot ankle 13. Presser foot sole 14. Free arm Key for throat plate . Bobbin case . Shuttle (hook) . Door for shuttle (hook) Base plate |. Needle clamp screw Presser bar Needle Feed dog Needle plate (throat plate) . Fingergrip for lowering light . Light guard Handle End cover Handwheel 40. 41. 42. Pattern scale - Setting dot Reverse feeding button Stitch length dial |. Stitch selector Setting dot . Stitch width dial Main switch and needle 38. 39. stop-right Drop feed button Hole for attaching extension table ‘Thread guide for bobbin winding Bobbin winding spindle Gearshift dialHusqvarna 2. Dial for the presser foot pressure 23. Feed dog 40. Thread guide for bobbin winding 6. Face plate 24. Needle plate (throat plate) 41. Bobbin winding spindle 10. Needle bar 25, Fingergrip for lowering the light 42. Gearshift dial IL Presser foot screw 26. Light guard 43. Type plate 12. Presser foot ankle 27. Handle 44. Spool pins 13. Presser foot sole 28, End cover 45. Stitch programmer 14. Free arm 29. Handwheel 46. Socket for foot control 19. Base plate 37, Main switch and needle 47. Presser bar handle 20. Needle clamp screw stop-right regulator 48. Support for extension table 21. Presser barUnpacking the machine Place the machine on the table with the little mark on top of the cover facing you. Pull the locking lips from the handle, lift off the cover and put it aside. Remove the extension table and the foot control. Lift the accessory box somewhat and slide it to the left from the machine. In order to protect the machine during transport it has undergone an anti-corrosive treatment. Therefore wipe the machine clean before you start sewing. Be especially careful when cleaning the throat plate and the space round the needle. First test sew on a scrap of fabric. Putting the machine away Pull the plugs out of the wall outlet and the socket of the machine. Wind the leads around your hand, starting. at the foot control and push them in under the foot plate. Place the control in its compartment, with the wider end ‘upwards. The bottom of the foot control should be turned towards the machine. Lower the presser foot. Make sure that all accessories are correctly placed in the box. Slide the accessory box into place and put the extension table into the box. Lift the handle and put on the cover. Make sure that the locking lips are inserted into the notches of the handle.Connection to wall outlet ‘The voltage of the machine is given on a plate at the back of the machine, under the handle. Ensure that the wall outlet voltage is the same as that of the machine. Then connect the machine to the proper wall outlet Connecting the foot control Remove the lead from the foot control and place the control under the table. Insert the foot control plug into the socket at the back of the machine. Only Viking foot control marked FR 710 is to be used on this sewing machine model 6570. Main switch ‘There is a main switch located at the right of the machine, which switches on the machine and the lighting, Needle stop-right ‘There is a regulator for setting the needle stop-right. is By means of this, you can choose the position at which the needle should stop. By depressing the upper part of the push-button, the needle will stop at its upper position. There will now be no need to consider the position of the needle at the commencement or conclusion of a seam, alternation between different utility and decorative seams or when sewing buttonholes. When the lower part of the push-button is depressed, the needle will stop at its lowest position. You can now raise the presser foot and, for example, turn the fabric at right angles, lower the presser foot and then continue sewing When the regulator is in the intermediate position (N) the needle will stop at any position. You can then turn the handwheel until the needle is in the position you require.Lighting When sewing by hand, threading the needle or doing some detailed sewing, it isa great help to be able to lower the lighting. For this purpose, pull the projection on the bulb guard downwards. For changing the light bulb, see page 60. Power gear or the “low gear” or “gearshift” as itis also called, is 2 practical feature. If you grasp the little wheel, located on the bobbin spindle on the right-hand side of the machine, and draw it out, the machine will sew at only 1/5th of its usual speed but at the same time maintaining full motor power. This low speed is a great advantage if you wish to sew slowly, stitch by stitch, for example when blindstitching. In addition you will have extra force in the needle power for sewing stiff fabrics, due to the combination of the celectronic speed control and the power gear. Free arm Trouser legs and sleeves can be drawn onto the free arm making it easy to sew, mend or patch these parts. The free arm also makes it much easier to attach collars and cuffs as well as sew small children’s clothes, or darn socks and stockings on the machineExtension table When you need a larger working surface, attach the extension table. Pull out the catch on the underside of the extension table with the index finger of your right hand and with your left hand lower the extension table legs. When positioning the extension table over the free-arm, fit the recess on the underneath of the table over the projection at the rear of the machine. You can also use the extension table with the support folded up, e.g, when hemming skirts Presser bar lever By means of the presser bar lever at the rear of the machine, the presser foot can be raised and lowered When raising, the presser foot will remain in the raised Position, but the height can be increased by 2 mm by pushing the presser bar lever upwards and holding it in this position. Useful when you want to put garments with thick seams etc. under the presser foot. The presser foot should be lowered during sewing.1-4 Standard needles 5 Twin needle 6-7 Stretch needles 8-9 Jeans needles Needle and thread The machine is delivered with a reel of synthetic thread, which can be used for all types of fabries and most, seams. Mercerized cotton can also be used to the same extent. ‘When sewing decorative seams, embroidery or daring silk No. 30-50 is generally used. It produces attractive buttonholes and topstitching and, as the name implies, is used for embroidery and darning. The needle is coded 130/705H and the thickness should be indicated by, e.g No. 80, which denotes the needle fitted to the machine on delivery. The needle case contains two more needles of this thickness, one needle No. 70 which is intended for fine thread and light, compact fabrics, and one needle No. 90, which should be used for coarser thread and fabrics. It also contains one twin needle, two needles for stretch sewing and two jeans needles. When to use these needles is described on the adjacent page. Changing the needle Only a completely undamaged needle will give perfect sewing results. Therefore, change the needle if you have the slightest reason to believe that it is bent or that the point is damaged. Loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the needle which is to be changed. When you insert the new needle, turn the flat side away from you and push the needle up into the needle socket as far as it will go. Tighten the screw with the screwdriver so that the needle is held firmly.Needle design Even if the needles look alike there can be slight variations which can affect the sewing result. Be sure to use high quality needles with the coding 130/705H which suit the machine In most cases the standard needle is the most suitable and the thickness of the needle should be adapted to the type of thread and fabric. However, when sewing certain fabrics, another design of needle can produce better results. ‘You will find two needles in the needle case with the description “Stretch” (completely blue). These needles have rounder tips and should be used when sewing elastic fabrics. When a needle of this type contacts a thread in the weave, the thread is pushed aside, thereby avoiding damage to it and the sewing result will be better. If, on the other hand, you are using a rigid fabric, like denim, use the needle described “Jeans” (upper part blue). This has a sharper tip, enabling it to pierce the fabric more easily. It passes through seams of double thickness more easily. Straight stitching will be straighter when using this needle. There is also a twin needle (‘“Twin") in the case. It consists of two standard needles, joined with a2 mm (6/64") gap. This should be used when sewing decorative seams in one or two colors or for raised seams, as described on page 56. Note, however, that the stitch width must be limited to 2.5 mm (1/8"), otherwise the needle will hit the stitch plate and be damaged. Round tip Elastic fabric Normal fabric Regarding special needles, see “Needle asso. page 65. ent” on, uRemoving the bobbin case Lift or remove the extension table, open the shuttle door. There is a small recess on the free arm to facilitate the opening of the shuttle door. Grasp the bobbin case with the thumb and index finger so that the latch is depressed and draw out the bobbin case. The bobbin will remain in the case as long as the latch is depressed. When you release the catch, the bobbin will be released. Bobbin winding ‘Take an empty bobbin from the accessory box. On one side of the bobbin there is a hole. Turn the bobbin, with the hole outwards, and slide it onto the bobbin spindle which is located on the right side of the machine. Set the stop-right push-button at the intermediate position. ‘Threading for bobbin winding can be done as shown in the upper picture, but if you want to use the same reel as the upper thread, and don’t want to thread the machine again, you follow the fig, below. When using a transparent presser foot, the thread has to go from the thread guide on the needle clamp to the guide at the back of the machine, otherwise the presser foot sole might be damaged. Be careful not to pull the thread direct from the eye of the needle, as this could cause the needle to bend. Place the thread over the bobbin. Start from above and wind the thread a few times around the bobbin. Hold the end of the thread while you press down the foot control. Release the thread end as soon as winding starts. Stop winding before the bobbin is completely filled—about, 1. mm (1/32’) from the rim (outer edge).Threading the lower thread When the bobbin is wound, place it beside its case with the hole upwards. The thread is then running as shown in the fig. Place the bobbin in its case without turning it around. Slide the thread into the slot on the edge of the bobbin case. Pull the thread in under the tension spring. Check that the bobbin rotates in the direction of the arrow when the thread is pulled, Insertion of the bobbin case Push the bobbin case onto the spindle of the shuttle (hook) so that the projection of the bobbin case fits in the notch at the top of the shuttle cover. Press on the bobbin case slightly to be sure it is latched onto the spindle of the shuttle. Draw the thread upwards to the left into the slot. There is a little knife at the end of the slot. Draw the thread to the end of the slot and back again. The lower thread is then cut off and is kept in place until the sewing begins. You can also let the thread hang, In that case it must be brought up with the upper thread before you start sewing, See page 15.Threading the upper thread Raise the presser foot. Turn the handwhee! towards you until the needle is at its highest position. Place the spool of thread on the left-hand spool pin. Slide the thread into the thread guide, 1, on the rear of the “upper arm”. Then draw the thread to the front between the tension discs and down around the thread guide, 2. Now continue the threading by drawing the thread from left-to-right in the slot on the thread take up lever, 3 Then pull the thread through the thread guide coil, 4. Be careful to see that the thread actually lies behind the black thread guide on the needle clamp, 5. Thread the needle from the front. Due to the white field on the presser foot clamp the needle-eye appears very clearly and in this way the threading of the needle, 6, is easier Pull the thread under the presser foot about 15 cm (6") towards the rearBringing up the lower thread If the lower thread is drawn into the slot on the front of, the free arm, bringing up is not necessary. If not, proceed as follows. Hold the threaded upper thread slack and turn the handwheel towards you until the needle goes down through the needle plate and then up again. When the needle isin its highest position, pull the upper thread and you will get a loop of the lower thread which is easy to catch. You shouldn’t pull the upper thread too hard as this, may damage the needle. Pull the threads about 15 cm (6") towards the rear. If the thread ends are too short, the thread may slide out of the eye of the needle when you begin to sew. Thread cutters On the back of the presser bar you will find a notch, the thread cutter, 1, which makes it easy for you to cut off the threads. ‘There is a special thread cutter for the lower thread, 2, see page 13.Tension of upper thread The dial which regulates the tension of the upper thread is graduated from 0 to 10 and has a stop. Normal thread tension is obtained by setting the red dot at the indicator point. Your machine has been tested with the thread which accompanies it and with the thread tension dial set at the red dot. If using a coarser thread, it may be necessary to alter the thread tension slightly; also the type of fabric may require that the tension be adapted. ‘There is also a special mark on the thread tension dial for the tension that can be used for making buttonholes.. This setting is also most suitable for close decorative seams, topstitching, embroidering, ete. Tension of lower thread In most special sewing cases it is sufficient to adjust only the upper thread tension. Rarely do you need to adjust the lower thread tension. If it is necessary to adjust the tension of the lower thread, take out the small screwdriver from the accessory box. Fit it in the larger screw on the thread tension spring and turn it not more than 1/10th of a turn to the left if the thread tension is too tight, to the right if it is too loose.Correct and incorrect thread tension In order to easily understand the importance of correct thread tension, you can try different thread tensions by sewing on a scrap of fabric. Begin by using an excessively loose tension, i.e. you turn the upper thread tension dial upwards as far as it will go. Look at the fabric and you will find the lower thread lies straight and the upper thread is drawn down into the lower side of the fabric. If you turn the dial downwards, the opposite occurs. The upper thread lies straight and the lower thread comes up in loops on the top of the fabric. The thread tension is correct when the threads interlock in the middle of the layers of fabric Itis worth remembering that even the best quality thread can vary in thickness. When sewing light fabrics it must be reckoned with that in some cases the interlocking may be visible from one side or the other. Always check that the right thread tension is set by first sewing on a scrap of the same fabric, folded double, that you intend to work with. Right VV,Upper | >= side J} Standard presser foot 41 11 383-01 Upper side Under side Special presser foot for light fabrics 41 12 988-01 x Under side Standard presser foot ‘The presser foot (41 11 383-01) which is fitted on the machine at delivery, is used for straight stitching and zig-zag stitching with a stitch length of more than 2 mm as”. Presser foot for light fabrics Light, compact synthetic fabrics and silky jersey fabrics, have a tendency to get caught up with the thread as it passes through the fabric and skipped stitches can result. A special presser foot (41 12 988-01) has been designed to avoid this. This foot is not grooved underneath and thereby holds the fabric down better. Utility stitch and pattern foot In order to sew utility- or patter stitches, you should change the presser foot and use presser foot 41 14 512-01 which you will find in the accessory box. The undemeath has an extra space for the seam, thus reducing the friction when sewing close stitches. ‘As you can see from the pictures, all these presser feet have certain markings which can be used as guides when sewing. When straight stitching with the needle in the intermediate position, you will have a 7 mm (1/4”) seam allowance if you let the fabric run level with the outer edge of the foot; 4 mm (3/16") at the inner edge and 2mm (1/8") at the innermost notch (the extreme right-hand marking). Edge guide You can easily sew with wider seam allowances with the aid of the edge guide (40 15 420-01) which you will find in the accessory box. The edge guide is inserted through the hole in the presser bar and is secured to the bar by means of an attachment screw (41 11 399-01) which is found in the accessory box. The stitch plate also has markings, ie. 1, 2 and 3 cm, which facilitate the setting.Roller presser foot The roller presser foot (41 13 901-01) is suitable for coarse-knitted material, certain knits and stretch fabrics, as well as leather imitations and plastic material. The grooved rollers give better friction against these materials. It may be necessary to adjust the presser foot pressure to obtain the desired result. Glide plate The glide plate (41 11 866-01) fits the standard presser foot (41 11 383-01). Peel off the protective paper and press on the self-adhering side of the glide plate against the underside of the presser foot. The glide plate can be used when sewing in foam plastic, plastic-coated fabric and leather imitations, to minimize the risk of these materials adhering to the presser foot.Changing the snap-on presser foot ‘The presser feet which accompany the machine are in the form of loose soles which are held in place on the presser foot “ankle” by a spring. If you wish to change the presser foot, check that the needle is at its upper position. Remove the presser foot by drawing it towards you while pressing slightly down- wards. There is a spring at the bottom of the ankle bracket. Slide on the presser foot so that the pin fits into the space between the bracket and the spring, Then press lightly backwards and downwards and the presser foot will snap into place. Changing special presser feet Certain presser feet cannot be designed as loose soles; the ankle bracket must also be changed. Make sure that the needle is in its upper position. Then loosen the retaining screw with the screwdriver and remove the presser foot.Lowering the feed dog You lower the feed dog by pressing the drop-feed push-button inwards and downwards at the same time so that the button is held in this position. In order to raise the feed dog again press the button upwards. Lower the feed dog when you sew on buttons, form closing bars (bartacks) and carry out certain darning work, embroidery, ete. Presser foot pressure Presser foot pressure can be adjusted with the aid of a dial located on the face plate on the left-hand side of the machine. Normal pressure is obtained when the red dot is opposite the index on the face cover, but for some fabrics it may be better to reduce or increase the pressure somewhat, ic. turn the dial to smaller or larger lines. When set at the symbol (G55) the presser foot pressure is completely disengaged. This setting is used when dam- ing with the darning foot. If you turn the dial for adjustment of the presser foot pressure to the smallest line and lower the feed dog, it is possible to do mending work with the standard presser foot. Move the fabric forwards, backwards and sideways by hand.Selecting the stitch On the right of the machine are the three dials for selecting and adjusting the different types of stitching. 1. Pattern scale ‘Above the three dials is a pattern scale which helps you to choose the stitch you desire. The stitch symbols correspond to the stitches on the various programmers. ‘The colors show you how to set the three dials. Straight stitching, zig-zag, three-step zig-zag and buttonholing can be set regardless of which programmer is in the machine. If you wish to sew other utility seams, use programmers A,B or C. Decorative stitches are produced by programmers D, E, F, G and H. 2. Stitch selector The upper left dial is the stitch selector by means of which you choose the stitch you desire in accordance with the symbols marked on it. It can be turned in both directions—but never past the stop marked with a white bar between the green/purple area and the symbol for sewing on buttons. 3. Stitch length dial The upper right dial adjusts the stitch length and it is, graduated from 0 to 6. The micro-graduation between 0 and 0.5 permits precision adjustment of the smaller stitch lengths. 4. Stitch width dial With the lower dial you adjust the zig-zag stitch width from 0 to 4 (in pulled-out position the stitch width dial works as buttonhole dial as explained on page 49) 5. Reverse sewing In the center of the stitch length dial is a button for reverse sewing. By pressing this button in, the machine will sew in reverse, and will resume normal forward sewing as soon as it is released. This is very useful when, for example, backtacking at the end of a seam.General hints Always start a straight seam by turning the handwheel towards you so that the needle enters the seam line, then lower the presser foot. When sewing zig-zag and other stitches, first lower the presser foot, then lower the needle. When sewing on thin and soft fabrics, start the seam about 1/4” from the edge of the fabric to prevent it from being pulled down into the needle hole in the throat plate. If you wish to extend the seam out to the very edge of the fabric, sew a few reverse stitches and then hold the thread behind the presser foot when sewing forwards, jain. Choose the needle stop-right position according to the type of seam. If you are going to sew a long seam, which means many stops to arrange the work, or when turning a corner, use the lower stop-right position. When sewing short seams, use the upper stop-right position. Start the machine gently and increase the speed gradually. Watch the presser foot to ensure that it follows an edge or a seam—don’t watch the needle. ‘The best way tohold the fabric is when you rest the left hand lightly on the fabric at A and guide it forwards. With the right hand you hold the edge of the fabric at B and guide the work. Don’t pull the fabric, only guide it towards the presser foot and let the machine do the feeding. Lock the thread ends by pressing the reverse button, making the machine sew backwards. When sewing utility or zig-zag stitches you can lock the thread ends by holding back the fabric or lowering the feed-dog and sewing a few stitches. When applying this method, sew the stitches a little way in from the edge, to prevent the fabric being pulled down into the throat plate. Finish a seam with the needle in the upper stop-right Position. If the machine is not already set at this position, do so now and depress the foot control a moment. Pull the threads away from you and cut them. Leave at least 15 cm (6 inches) of thread in the needle so that it will not, be drawn out of the eye of the needle when the next seam is startedSestetl Pree bt finer malt eee mores AS Hessen Straight stitching Straight stitching can be set regardless of which programmer is in the machine Check that the needle is set at the upper stop-right position. Set the stitch selector (the upper left-hand dial) at the straight stitching symbol ( .. ), The stitch length dial (upper right-hand dial) is graduated from 0 to 6 and should be set at the required stitch length. The stitch width dial (ower dial) should be set at 0 for straight stitching. 1.5-2.5 is the normal stitch length for joining seams. For basting and topstitching, use 3-4 in light fabrics and 4-6 in normal and coarse fabrics. raight stitching should be used to join fabric pieces which will not stretch and for seams which will not be subject to strain. When sewing elastic fabries, or when an extra strong seam is necessary, use elastic straight stitching. ‘Topstitching is most effective on double fabric. Fine thread and needle should be used when sewing light fabrics—an interlining will enhance the result. In somewhat thicker fabrics, more pronounced topstitching will be obtained by using coarser thread and needle and, at the same time increasing the upper thread tension slightly. By using the twin needle, you can make parallel topstitching. Topstitching can also be done with elastic straight stitching, zig-zag or decorative stitches.Basting When sewing simpler garments you can save time by inserting pins at right-angles to the seam. Then sew the seam and remove each pin as you come to it. If you are careful, use fine pins, and relatively long stitches, you can sew right across the pins. However, this involves a risk of blunting the needle. Machine basting allows you to try on the garment before sewing it together. Pin the seams as described above. Set the machine for long stitches, 3-4 for light fabrics, 4~6 for normal and coarser fabrics and slack upper thread tension. Baste the parts of the garment together. You can, after finally sewing the garment, remove the basting by drawing out the lower thread. Gathering Gathering with straight stitch is the most common method. The best results are obtained if stitch length 3-3.5 is used and the upper thread tension is slackened slightly. ‘Two rows of gathering stitches are sewn side by side—the lower threads from both rows are then pulled simultaneously to produce the gathering.26 Sewing in zippers The zipper foot (41 12 989-01) can be attached so that it comes either to the right or to the left of the needle. This makes it possible to sew on both sides of the zipper without turning the work. Slide the front part of the attaching clamp onto the presser foot ankle, as shown in the illustratior Zipper under the left-hand edge of the opening Keep the zipper closed. Baste the opening together by machine, using long stit. slack upper thread tension. Leave approximately 3/4” open at the top. Put on the zipper presser foot so that itis to the left of the needle. Fold the rear seam allowance 1/8” from the basted seam and sew it to the right-hand edge of the zipper with the work reversed and sewing from the bottom upwards. Stop the machine with the needle down in the fabric about 3/4” from the end of the seam and lift the presser foot, now open the zipper so that the slide is at the back of the needle, lower the presser foot and finish the Turn the presser foot so that it is to the right of the needle. Tun the garment and sew on the other side of the zipper from the “right” side. Begin with a cross-seam at the lower edge and then sew from the bottom upwards. Remove the basting.Zipper under the center of the opening. Baste the opening together by machine with long stitches and slack upper thread tension. Leave about 3/4” open at the top of the opening. Press the seam open and baste the zipper under the seam by hand. Change to the zipper presser foot, putting it to the left of the needle. Sew the right-hand edge from the bottom upwards, leaving the zipper closed. Before the seam is finished, stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, open the zipper so that the slide is at the back of the needle, lower the presser foot and finish the seam. Turn the presser foot so that it is to the ight of the needle. Start by sewing the seam across the bottom to join the two long seams. Then sew the left side the same as the right one. Remove the basting.SS S S S$ > Standard Utility SE aresserfoot presser foot 411138301 411451201 Zig-zag stitching Zig-zag can be set regardless of which stitch programmer is in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Set the upper left-hand dial, the stitch selector at zig-zag (sos ). The upper right-hand dial, the stitch length’ dial, should be set at the required stitch length. The lower dial, the stitch width dial, should be set at the required stitch width. Experiment a little until you have found a suitable combination of stitch length and stitch width. Suitable setting for overcasting with zig-zag: Stitch length 2, stiteh width 3 However, in most cases three-step zig-zag is to be recommended as it binds the threads better and is more attractive The stitch length and width can be adjusted while you swing. formally, the standard presser foot is used but particularly when sewing closer seams (less than 2 mm (1/8) stitch length) use the utility and decorative seam presser foot, Zig-zag is used for a large number of sewing operations, such as gathering, bias edging, sewing on lace and appliqués.Gathering with zig-zag stitching Gathering by zig-zagging over shirring elastic gives soft, supple gathering for e.g. smocking and elastic in blouses, children’s clothes and nightwear. The elastic can either be stretched while sewing or when the seam is finished. The latter method is particularly suitable when sewing several rows of gathering. If you sew and gather simultaneously, hold the elastic firmly both in front and behind the presser foot and stretch the elastie—not the fabric! The zig-zag stitch should be wide enough so that the clastic can glide within it and the gathers will be evenly spaced when the work is finished. Stitch length 2.5 is usually sufficient. The raised seam presser foot 41 11 389-01) will facilitate your work. Bound edges ‘The simplest method is to use ready-made bias binding. If the binding is to be sewn on to a curved edge it should be pre-shaped. Fold it over the edge of the fabric allowing, the lower part (which will be on the reverse side of the fabric) to be slightly wider. Sew with small zig-zag stitches, stitch length and stitch width 1-1.5. If you have a woven seam binding, just fold it over the edge of the fabric and stitch on the same way as for bias binding. Lace The simplest way to attach lace is to place it 1/2" or so in on the fabric and stitch with fairly close zig-zag stitches (ctitch length about 0.3 and stitch width 2). Trim from the reverse side close to the stitchingLace (cont.) The lace will be more firmly attached if it is first placed about 1/2” in on the fabric and sewn on with widely spaced zig-zag. Stitch length and stitch width 1.5. Fold the fabric back against the reverse side and stitch again from the right side, this time using a little wider zig-zag and closer stitches. (Stitch length 0.3, stitch width 2). If you wish the seam to be more pronounced, use the raised seam presser foot and slacken the thread tension to the buttonhole symbol. ‘Trim the fabric edges on the reverse side close to the seams, or fold a hem and sew with straight stitches. Appliqués ‘When sewing appliqués you can either cut out the figures before sewing them on, or draw the figure, sew it onto the garment around the contours and then trim, cutting close to the stitching. Secure the pieces with pins. Use the utility stitch presser foot 41 14 512-01 or the raised seam presser foot 41 11 389-01. You will be greatly assisted by using the lower needle stop-right as. you will need to turn and adjust your work often. Sew the figures on by machine, using a long zig-zag stitch. Then stitch around the edges a second time with a closer and wider zig-zag. The stitches should be adjusted according to the thickness of the fabric. More attractive seams will be obtained by slackening the upper thread tension to the buttonhole symbol. If you use a gimp thread when sewing the second stitching, you will have a raised contour outline. The raised seam presser foot 41 11 389-01 is most suitable for this(a) rete a BES LE 0S A f 2 q c ; 3 Standard Presser foot Utility presser foot for light fabrics _prester foot 4111383-01 4112988-01 4114 512-01 : Three-step zig-zag You can set the machine for three-step zig-zag Three-step zig-zag is used for overcasting in most regardless of which stitch programmer is in the machine. fabrics, especially stretchable, thin and easily frayed Before setting, check that the needle is in its upper fabrics. It has many advantages over ordinary zig-zag. It stop-right position. is more elastic and does not pull the edges of the fabric Then set the stitch selector at the symbol for three-step together. It is ideal for sewing terry cloth and is also used zig-zag (,",*/".); stitch length 1 and stitch width 4 are for damning and mending. basic settings and can be altered as necessary.Overcasting Trim the edges of the fabric before overcasting. Make sure that the needle sews over the edge of the fabric. Let the edge of the fabric follow the right- hand marking of presser foot No. 41 14 512-01 as shown in the picture Sewing terry cloth Terry cloth is rather loosely woven fabric in which seams easily break and where hems are frequently thick and clumsy When overcasting proceed as follows Sew the garment together leaving 5/8” to 3/4” seam allowance. Trim the seams so that they do not fray. Fold back the seam allowances and sew the edges down against the garment with three-step zig-zag. Even though the stitching goes rig right” side of the garment, itis almost invisible When hemming garments in terry cloth, itis only necessary to turn the hem once and sew with three-step zig-zag. This gives a smooth and flexible hem. Neck lines and armholes are finished in a similar manner. Tum the hem once and sew down with three-step zig-zagMending Three-step zig-zag is a versatile stitch which can be utilized for mending and darning the majority of materials. The ordinary presser foot may be used. It is, naturally better if the thread is of the same color as the fabric. The adjustment should be adapted to the material. To start with, try stitch length 0.3-1 When mending a tear, bring the edges of the fabric together and sew them together with three-step zig-zag. If necessary, reinforce the tear with a piece of fabric on the reverse side and sew back and forth once or twice. The needle set at the lower stop-right position will be of great assistance here. A patch is sewn on around all edges with three-step zig-zag. The edges of the patch do not need to be turned under if the stitch length setting is quite short. Sewing round the patch several times will strengthen it. A threadbare spot is repaired by sewing back and forth with three-step zig-zag. This method is called Quick-mend and is the quickest and easiest method of damning. Use the reverse button. For every row of stitching, guide the fabric slightly to the side so that the stitches cover the entire worn area. If the fabric is very worn, a piece of the fabric or a lining may be attached to the reverse side of the material as reinforcement. Use gauze as reinforcement when mending tablecloths, napkins and towels.Stitches on the stitch programmers Stitches of all programmers are shown on the next page. The stitches of programmers A, B and C are utility stitches, ie. they are designed to facilitate a special type of sewing or for sewing in a special kind of fabric. The stitches of programmers D, E, F, Gand H are decorative stitches. In certain cases a utility stitch may also provide a decorative effect. The purpose for which the stitch is to be used will, of course, determine the stitch you select. Some stitches are nevertheless used for the same or similar purposes and your choice will then be determined by the nature of the fabric. Applications for the various stitches are described in the following pages but in each case you should try a few stitches in the material you intend to use and compare the results to judge which is best. Changing the stitch programmer Set the white dot on the stitch selector opposite the indicator dot, as shown to the left, and take out the programmer at the back of the machine and replace it with the one you wish to use. After having placed the programmer in position, press in and at the same time turn it until you can feel that itis engaged.al tan Minar ee 35reer) rs) EES AS. & NS aN Unity presser foot #1451201 Roller presser foot 4113 901-01 Veo ee Overlock (Elastic knit stitch) Stitch programmer A should be in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Set the stitch selector, stitch length dial and stitch width dial at the blue symbol, Stitch length 45 is usual for overlocking. For certain fabrics it may be wise to use a shorter stitch. Overlocking is used for joining and overcasting seams. Itis elastic and binds the edges well. It can be used in all, 36 fabrics but is particularly suitable for producing narrow, supply, elastic seams in double-knit (jersey), stretch terry cloth and other knitted fabrics. When joining the garment pieces together with overiocking, both straight stitching and zig-zag are replaced. It is also useful for attaching collars, cuffs, ete. ‘When sewing heavy knits, reduce the presser foot pressure slightly.Joining and finishing in one ‘Seams joined and finished in one operation are possible with the elastic knit stitch (overlock). Reckon with 1/4" Seam allowance If you prefer, you can cut the garment with a wider seam allowance, but remember that the left-hand edge of the seam should then follow the marking for the seam. You can see in the picture how the left-hand marking of presser foot 41 14 512-01 can be used as a guide Trim the remaining seam allowance once you have finished the seam 7Standard Uslty presser foot presser foot ari1383-01 4114 512-01 Elastic straight stitch ‘The stitch programmer A should be in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Set the stitch selector, stitch length dial and stitch width dial at the yellow symbol. Stitch length 4—5 is the normal setting for joining seams, in elastic fabrics. A shorter stitch length will give greater elasticity. In certain fabrics and when topstitching, it can be more suitable to use a longer stitch. 38 Reinforced elastic straight stitching is, as the word implies, a stronger seam than ordinary straight stitching, depending partly on the fact that itis a treble seam and partly that it is elastic. The stretch- ability makes it useful for sewing in double-knit (jersey) and other stretch fabrics.Joining and overcasting Reinforced elastic straight stitch should be used instead of ordinary straight stitch in all elastic fabrics, e.g. for pressed, open seams. Overcasting can be done with three-step zig-zag, However, not all double-knit (jersey) fabrics need to be overcast. Try pulling the edge of a scrap of the fabric and see if it frays or starts a run. Reinforced elastic straight stitch is also to be preferred for sleeve insertion and for crotch seams which are always subject to considerable strain, even in non-stretch materials. A tip: Baste the seams using ordinary straight stitching, stitch length 4, and a thread the same color as the material. When you have tried on the garment, the seams can be “sewn in” with elastic straight stitching. The basting thread need not be removed if you sew exactly along the basting seam. Top stitching Reinforced straight stitch produces attractive topstitching in any fabric. Maximum stitch length and slacker thread tension will make the results even better. ATAU IN 7 NN v VV IV VN v iN Taw - VAVAN40 ; : ann hnnn Blindstitching The stitch programmer A should be in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Blindstitching is used for hemming skirts, for example, without the stitches being visible on the right side, The seam on the purple symbol has straight stitches between the zig-zag stitches and is used in fabrics which are not elastic while the seam on the orange symbol has small zig-zag stitches between the larger ones and is used for elastic fabrics, particularly those which stretch a lot sideways Set all the dials at the purple or orange symbols but bear in mind that both the stitch length and stitch width can be adapted according to the fabricYou will find the blindstitching presser foot (41 14 228-01) in the accessory box. Attach it in the same way as the regular presser foot To avoid hard creasing when hemming certain fabrics, you can ease the presser foot pressure. Fold the fabric as indicated in the picture. ‘The stitch length can be increased or decreased, depending on how close you wish to have the stitches in the fabric. Before beginning to sew, you may wish to engage the power gear. Make sure that the fold line of the fabric follows the right-hand side of the slit of the presser foot ‘The stitch width may also be varied. In the left illustration can be seen how the stitches fail to reach the fold line of the fabric, indicating you should increase the stitch width or make sure that the fold line of the fabric exactly follows the right-hand side of the slit. In the middle illustration the stitch width has been increased too much, leading to excessive “bite”, and the stitches will be visible from the right side. The right-hand illustration shows a correctly sewn blindstitched hem. The seam catches one thread only of the folded edge Test different stitch lengths and widths on a scrap of fabric and look at the right side. The thicker and softer the fabric, the less visible the seam will be. When sewing light, single-woven fabrics, however, it is unavoidable that a small stitch will show on the right side. \SaEre ea = 4.% 4 . 4 . ¢ . Pa . 4 .$ 4 Ss presser foot presser foot 411451201 4113 901-01 Uility —_ Sandard proverloot prover fot Aygiom A385 Double overlock Stitch programmer B should be in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Then set the stitch selector, stitch length dial and stitch width dial to the blue symbol. Choose a suitable stitch length within the range of the symbol. The double overlock stitch sews and finishes seams in one operation. Suitable for fabries with a moderate amount of “stretch” as well as for non-stretch materials. The overlock seam binds the fibres of the fabric, which makes it ideal for overcasting coarse, rough textured materials and fabrics that tend to fray. Ric Rac Stitch programmer B should be in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Then set the stitch selector, stitch length dial and stitch width dial to the yellow symbol. Choose a suitable stitch length within the range of the symbol Ric Rac is suitable for topstitching and for appliqué work using cloth tape (bias strips), as well as for fabrics with a selvedge or folded edge, or leather. Replaces ric rac tape,Double-action stitch ° 2 Stitch programmer B should be in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Then set the stitch selector, stitch length dial and stitch width dial to the red symbol. Standard Presser foot reser loot for ight fabrics AVin 385-01 9112 988.01 Choose a suitable stitch length within the range of the symbol; approx. 0.5 is usually convenient for tricot. e 2 A : Utility Standard € iA using soft fabrics, reduce the presser foot pressure. Serpentine Stitch programmer B should be in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Then set the stitch selector, stitch length dial and stitch width dial to the green symbol. Choose a suitable stitch length within the range of the symbol; approx. 0.5 is usually convenient for tricot. The serpentine stitch is used for darning and mending, for sewing lycra, elastic and knitwear. The double-action stitch is used for joining overlapped ms and decorative hemming in soft fabrics. When presser foot presser loot aiesiz0 Tir 36-01 BShirring stitch Stitch programmer C should be in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Then set the stitch selector, stitch length dial and stitch width dial to the blue symbol. Choose a suitable stitch length within the range of the symbol. The normal stitch length is approx. 5. ‘The shirring stitch is used for gathering over elastic and for decorative sewing. presser foot presser foot 4111650-01 41 14 512-01 Gathering with shirring stitch Use the buttonhole presser foot and place the shirring elastic around its “heel”. Remember that the elastic will always be stitched double, so take this into account when calculating how much you will need. Sew over both lengths of the elastic simultaneously. The shirring elastic may cither be stretched while sewing or when you have finished the seam. In the latter case itis important that the elastic does not get stitched in by mistake, but can run freely under the stitching. The shirring stitch can also be used as a decorative stitch. In this case use the utility presser foot 41.14 512-01.moe | | | Era) Point de Paris hemstitch Stitch programmer C should be in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Then set the stitch selector, stitch length dial and stitch width dial to the yellow symbol. Choose a suitable stitch length within the range of the symbol ‘The Point de Paris hemstitch is used for, inter alia, decorative hems, appliqué work using cloth tape (bias strips), skin and leather. Your work will be much easier if you use the glide plate for leather. Utiity Standard presser foot presse foot #iiagi201 41:11 383-01 Use Point de Paris hem stitch to make attractive buttonholes in leather and imitation leather. Start by cutting a slit of suitable length. Next, stitch along the two columns using Point de Paris hemstitch so that the transverse stitches will bind the open edges. Finally stitch the ends of the buttonhole using a narrow zig-zag seam (stitch width 2, stitch length 0.25) as shown in the picture. 4sBridging stitch Stitch programmer C should be in the machine. Check that the needle isin its upper stop-right position. Then set the stitch selector, stitch length dial and stitch j width dial to the red symbol.’ Choose a suitable stitch length within the range of the symbol. 0.5 is usually convenient. 1 1 Stondard presser foot 4111 383-01 If you want a decorative seam, place the folded edges (without sewing them together first) a few millimeters from each other and join with bridging stitch. It can also be used for inserting lace and embroidery. As itis elastic, itis suitable for sewing and mending underwear and swimsuits of lycra.Lingerie stitch Stitch programmer C should be in the machine. Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position ‘Then set the stitch selector, stitch length dial and stitch width dial to the green symbol. Choose a suitable stitch length within the range of the symbol. 0.5 is generally convenient. Standard Prosser foot presser foot for light fabrics 411138301 4112 988-01 The lingerie stitch is used for seaming and overcasting simultaneously in light, woven and elastic fabrics, e.g. cambric, taffeta, nylon charmeuse and silky double-knit Gersey). Use the lingerie stitch to make scalloped edges on sleeves, frills, etc. in light fabrics. Fold the edge double and sew the seam, using a tight upper thread tension. If you sew scalloped edges in woven fabrics, it will be necessary to sew on the bias.00 ity sth and pate ser oot 116 512-0 48 Decorative stitching The pattern stitches on the programmers D, E, F, G and H are mainly for producing a decorative effect. The utility and pattern presser foot 41 14 512-01 should also be used here. The seam will be more pronounced, due to the space underneath the foot and it should be used for all close stitching. Alter affixing the foot, select the decorative stitch you wish to sew on the pattern scale. Fit the desired stitch programmer D, E, F, G or H in at the rear of the machine and check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Set all the dials (stitch selector, stitch width dial and stitch length dial) to the color of the desired stitch. The yellow, green, red and blue symbols are all at the same position on the stitch width dial. Set the thread tension dial to the buttonhole symbol. Remember to begin sewing 1/8" or so in from the edge of the fabric. Embroidery silk is very suitable for decorative stitches. Always test sew decorative stitches on a scrap of the fabric you are going to use before you begin sewing your work. Light and compact fabrics easily pucker when sewing decorative seams. If this happens, strengthen the fabric with lining, interfacing or an iron-on stiffener, type violean. Decorative stitches can also be sewn with the twin needle but bear in mind that you cannot sew at full stitch width. 2.5 mm (1/8") is the maximum stitch width which can be used with the twin needle in the accessory box @ mm needle gap). tis always safer to test first by gently turing the handwheel, to see that the needle does not strike against the stitch plate.Buttonholes You can sew buttonholes regardless of which programmer is in the machine, but you should change over to the buttonhole foot (41 11 650-01). You will find it in the accessory box and it is attached in the same way as the ordinary presser foot. The buttonhole foot has ‘graduated markings to help you make the buttonholes the same length. Loosen the upper thread tension by turning the thread tension dial to the buttonhole symbol. The buttonhole will look better, if you use a fine thread. Mark on the fabric where you want to place the buttonhole. Always first test sew a buttonhole and adjust the stitch setting. The needle should be in its upper stop-right position for this setting and all other buttonhole settings. Make it a habit to always have the needle set at the upper stop-right position, when sewing buttonholes. Set both the stitch selector and stitch length dial to the buttonhole symbol. Set the stitch width dial to 0, pull it out towards you and turn it to the right to 1. Place the fabric under the presser foot, remembering when positioning the markings, the machine begins to sew in reverse. Hold the threads to the left. The procedure for sewing the buttonhole is shown step by step on the next page. 49Buttonholes (cont.) Start sewing with the stitch width dial (pulled out) at 1. ‘The machine will sew the first column in reverse. If the stitches are not sufficiently close reduce the stitch length slightly. When the column of zig-zag is the right length, stop the machine and turn the dial to 2 ‘The next step is to form the closing bar. Sew three to five stitches while holding back the fabric or lowering the feed dog. Stop the machine and turn the dial to 3. Now sew the other column of zig-zag the same length as the first one. The thread lying to the left serves as a ‘guide. Stop the machine and turn the dial to 4. In position 4 the machine makes the final closing bar. Sew three to five stitches while holding back the fabric or lowering the feed dog. Then turn the dial to 0 and fasten the threads with a few stitches, while holding back the fabric or lowering the feed dog. When you have finished buttonholing, press in the dial at 0, after which it will function as the ordinary stitch width dial again.Fine adjustment of the buttonhole sewing ‘The machine is pre-set for sewing even and attractive buttonholes in as many as possible of the most usual fabrics. However, certain combinations of fabric, needle and sewing thread might produce a difference in the appearance of the two columns of zig-zag stitches. This can be adjusted by means of the outer ring on the reverse sewing button. Normally the ring should be Positioned with the setting point exactly to the right. If the right-hand column of zig-zag looks closer than the left-hand one, turn the ring upwards slightly, ie. towards the minus symbol. The stitches of the right-hand column will not now be so close. If the right-hand column of zig-zag looks looser than the left-hand one, turn the ring downwards slightly, i.e. towards the plus symbol. The stitches in the right-hand column will now be closer. Summary: Right-hand column too close: Turn towards minus (-). Right-hand column too loose: Turn towards plus (+).=———>_ — Buttonhole knife 40 15 399-01 Buttonhole knife ‘The buttonhole knife (40 15 399-01), which you will find in the accessory box, is equipped with a safety cap which, when taken off, can be pushed onto the back of the knife, providing a good handle. Pierce the fabric at right angles until the curved blade edge reaches down to the buttonhole. With the knife more or less parallel to the fabric, push forward, taking care not to cut through the end of the buttonhole. The small red bead serves asa guide. Cut the buttonhole to the middle and then repeat the cut from the other direction. Corded buttonholes A gimp thread can be used to sew buttonholes in elastic material, in order to keep the shape better. Attach a gimp thread loop as shown in the picture around the projection at the heel of the buttonhole foot. Draw the gimp threads towards you, one under each groove in the presser foot. Lower the presser foot, and sew the buttonhole in the normal way Note: Do not hold the threads. When the buttonhole has been finished, pull the loose ends of the gimp thread so that the loop reinforces one end of the buttonhole. Using a needle, hand sew the loose ends through to the reverse side and tie themReinforced buttonholes Garments subject to heavy wear or buttons subject to special strain may sometimes require even stronger buttonholes. These are sewn as follows: Check that the needle is in its upper stop-right position. Pull out the width dial on 0, turn it to 1 and sew the first column in exactly the same way as for an ordinary buttonhole but with slightly longer stitches. When the column is the right length, stop the machine, turn the dial to 3 and sew the second column without making any closing bar. When the second column is the same length as the first ‘one, stop the machine, turn the dial to 1 and sew the first column once more. If you experience any difficulty with the feeding, increase the stitch length slightly.Reinforced buttonholes (cont.) When this is finished, set the dial to 2 and sew three to five closing bar stitches, while holding back the fabric or lowering the feed dog. Now turn the dial to 3 and sew the second column once more. Finish off the buttonhole by turning the dial to 4 and sewing three to five closing bar stitches, while holding back the fabric or lowering the feed dog. Now turn the dial to 0 and fasten the threads by sewing a few stitches, while holding back the fabric or lowering the feed dog.Sewing on buttons For sewing on buttons, set the stitch selector to the symbol ( a&... ) for the left-hand starting position. Lower the feed dog by pressing the drop feed push-button inwards and downwards, so that the button is held in this Position. Set the needle at the upper stop-right position. Remove the presser foot, put the button in place and lower the presser bar. Set the stitch width dial to a suitable setting—about 3; most buttons have a spacing of 3-4 mm between the holes—turn the handwheel towards you and test carefully that the needle goes through the center of first one hole and then the other. Depress the foot control without disturbing the position of the button, Hold both thread ends behind the bracket and sew 5-6 stitches. Then move to the other holes and repeat the Process. Set the stitch width dial to 0 and lock the thread. When the button has been sewn on and you wish to return to ordinary sewing, press the feed dog lowering button inwards/upwards, to get back to its previous normal position. Button reed When sewing buttons on garments, a ‘stem’ is often desired so that the button stands slightly away from the fabric. You can use the button reed (41 11 732-01) for this. Use the thin end when sewing buttons on thin fabrics, the thick end for heavier fabrics. Fix the button with a stitch. Raise the presser bar and place the button reed between the button and the fabric. Lower the presser bar and sew on the button. Remove the button reed, draw the threads between the button and the fabric and wind them a few times around the stem,>= 4114 235-01-02-03 Upper side Under side =| Raised seam presser foot 41 11 389-01 coy Raised seam attachment 40 15 427-01 56 Raised seams Exchange the ordinary needle for a twin needle and be sure to see that it is pressed right up into the needle clamp. Change to the raised seam presser foot (41 11 389-01) and fit the raised seam attachment (40 15 427-01) with its straight edge towards you. If you wish to use a gimp cord, lay this under the raised seam attachment when you put it on. In order to prevent the threads from becoming entangled, itis advisable to thread one at a time. Place a reel of thread on each of the spool pins and thread on both sides of the middle tension disc. For the rest you thread as usual, of course, one thread in each of the needles. Now set the machine for straight stitching. The height of the raised seam can be adjusted by means of the thread tension—the tighter the thread tension, the more raised the seam will be. If you are using a gimp cord, first pull it out well behind the presser foot and then it will only be necessary to see that it runs freely while you are sewing, Parallel raised seams If you wish to sew several parallel seams, you can use the grooves on the bottom of the presser foot as edge guides. Place the previously sewn seam to the left or to the right of the one you are about to sew and let the presser foot guide the work.Darning using the darning foot Daring is usually done with the help of darning foot 41 12 897-01) but it can also be done with the standard presser foot. The darning foot should be attached in the same way as other snap-on presser feet, i.e. by pressing the pin between the spring and the presser foot “ankle”. ‘Tur the dial for the presser foot pressure to the symbol EB. This will connect a vibrator which will cause the daring foot to move in a certain way. Stretch the work in a hoop and hold it with the fabric resting against the table. Use fine darning thread and gauze or tarlatan (strong gauze) as reinforcement for large holes. Set the machine to straight stitch and slacken the thread tension slightly. Lower the feed dog and place the hoop under the damning foot. Lower the damning foot. Start sewing and guide the hoop back and forth. Keep the machine sewing at an even speed and manceuver the hoop until you have obtained the required stitch length. Sew threads in this way over the complete hole. Then turn the work 90° and dam across the hole with short stitches obtained by moving the hoop slowly back and forth Daming can also be done on the bias of the fabric o in circles if this would be better adapted to the structure of the fabric.Darning (cont.) Daring can also be done using the standard presser foot, straight stitching and free-hand guiding. Follow exactly the same procedure as when using the darning foot, ie. stretch the work in a hoop. Use gauze or tarlatan (strong gauze) as reinforcement. Set the presser foot pressure at the shortest stroke, the thread tension to 4 and guide the hoop back and forth Darning socks Set the machine at zig-zag, stitch width 3. Lower the feed dog and set the presser foot at the darning symbol. ‘Change to the damning foot, thread the machine with darning or embroidery cotton and draw the cotton through the needle hole of the presser foot. Pull the sock over the free arm and place the hole under the damning foot. Lower the presser foot and bring up the lower thread. Place a strand of light yarn in the groove of the presser foot and fasten it with a few stitches in the left-hand edge of the hole. Stretch the sock with your fingers and sew the woollen yarn across the hole at slow speed, guiding the work from side to side. Cut off the yarn when the hole is filled and darn back and forth with zig-zag across the yarn. Do not sew too closely or the darn will become too stiff.Ss Free-hand embroidery Free-hand embroidery is suitable for decorations or ‘monograms on garments. It needs practice, however. If you have a steady hand, you'll soon learn the technique. Draw the pattern on tissue paper, pin it to the fabric and sew the outline with straight stitch. Use embroidery cotton No. 50-40, Remove the paper. Stretch the work in a hoop. Lower the feed dog and set the thread tension to the buttonhole symbol. Set the machine to zig-zag. Remove the presser foot, including the “ankle” shank, and remember to lower the presser bar in order to tension the upper thread. Press the ‘material against the stitch plate. Move the work slowly. ‘The machine speed should be high so that the stitches will be close together.Care of the machine In order to serve you satisfactorily, your new sewing ‘machine requires regular cleaning, It need not be oiled, however. The throat plate (needle plate) should occasionally be removed and the feed dog cleaned between the rows of teeth. Set the needle to the highest Position and push the key at the right-hand side of the shuttle (hook). The throat plate is then released from its holders and can be removed. You can then clean the feed dog with the brush, which you'll find in the accessory box. When securing the throat plate, the spring catch is pushed into the cut at the back of the free arm and the throat plate is pressed down. Whenever necessary, the bobbin case and shuttle should also be brushed clean. Sizing or finishing ‘compounds from the fabric can adhere to the spindle of the shuttle and affect the machine’s performance. In such a case the spindle should be cleaned with the brush. Also check that any thread remainders, wound around the spindle, are removed. Belts Belt adjustment is not required. Changing the light bulb ‘There is a projection to lower the light assembly, to the left of the light guard. Lower the light guard. Grasp the light bulb, press it inwards and turn the bulb anti- clockwise. ‘When inserting a new light bulb, press it into the socket as far as it will go and tum it clockwise. The maximum lamp wattage is 25 W. Use only original bulbsMaintenance hints In most cases poor sewing results are due to a blunt or damaged needle. Therefore always examine the needle first before taking any other action. Unattractive stitches — unattractive seam 1, The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 10. 2. The needle is bent or blunt. Change the needle. 3. The thread tension is not correct. See page 16. 4. The machine is incorrectly threaded. See pages 13-14. 5. The needle, thread and fabric do not correspond. See page 11. 6. The lower thread is not the same thickness as the upper thread, 7. The bobbin is incorrectly inserted in the bobbin case. See page 13. 8, Lint or thread is wrapped around the spindle of the shuttle. See page 60. Needle breaks 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 10. 2. You may have helped the machine to feed through the fabric by pulling it. The needle can then easily come against the throat plate and be broken. 3. The needle is not the right size. Use only needles marked 130/705H. Upper thread breaks 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 10. 2. The needte is bent or blunt. Change the needle. 3. The upper thread is incorrectly threaded. See page 14. 4. The upper thread is too tightly tensioned. See pages 16-17. 5. The thread is knotted. 6. The needle and thread do not correspond. See page 11. 7. The hole in the throat plate is chipped and has sharp edges. Polish with an emery cloth or change the throat plate. See page 60. 8. The needle groove or needle eye has too sharp edges. Change the needle. See page 10. 9. Thtead is entangled on the spool pin. Lower thread breaks 1. The bobbin case is incorrectly inserted. See page 13. 2. The lower thread is incorrectly threaded. See page 13. 3. The lower thread is too tightly tensioned. See pages 16-17. 4. The bobbin is wound too full. See page 12. 5. The throat plate hole is damaged, Polish it with an emery cloth or change the throat plate. See page 60. 6. Lint or thread is wrapped around the spindle of the shuttle. See page 60. 61Maintenance hints (cont.) Lower thread not brought up by the upper thread ‘The needle is incorrectly inserted. See page 10. Uneven thread tension This may be due to poor thread quality. Irregular bobbin winding 1. The bobbin is not pressed in far enough. See page 12. 2, The machine is not correctly threaded for bobbin winding. See page 12. Fabric puckers 1. The upper thread is too tightly tensioned. See pages 16-17. 2. The upper and lower thread tension is too tight in relation to the thickness of the fabric, See page 17. Stitch length varies 1. The feed dog is choked by dust and dirt, Clean it with, the special brush or small screwdriver. See page 60. 2. The presser foot pressure is disengaged. See page 21. The seant is too loose. Fabric layers not held together ‘The thread tension is too slack. See page 16-17. Machine does not feed the fabric 1, The stitch length dial is set on 0. 2. The feed dog is lowered. Raise it by pressing the feed dog lowering button upward. See page 21. 3. Presser foot pressure is disengaged. See page 21. Machine does not sew the stitch indicated or sews in reverse The stitch programmer is incorrectly inserted. Directions on page 34. Machine runs sluggishly 1. Dirt or lint has got under the throat plate. Loosen the throat plate and brush clean between the teeth of the feed dog. See page 60. 2. Dirt or lint has got into the shuttle, Take out the bobbin and bobbin case and brush clean with the special brush. See page 60, 3. The wall outlet voltage is too low.Contents of accessory box | | (Also see page 78) 412138301 Standard presser {oot mourted fom the machine 41.36 041.07 Accesory box with prescer feet and ancessories 4111650.01 Buttonhole foot 411289701 Darning foot OE) 4111389-01 Raised seam [presser foot, three grooves E 4015 427-01, Raised seam cord guide for tse with or without cord 411451201 Unity stitch and pattern presser foot 4112 998-01 Presser foot for tight fares A $1.13 901-01, 4114 228.02 41 12.950.01 Roller presser Blindstitehing Zipper foot foot presser footContents of accessory box (Also see page 79) 41.16 045-01 Holder for programmers 4112 699-01 Large screwdriver i Riemann) 4015 55501 Brush 41.11. 732-01 Button reed i 3 ‘Stuch programmers ‘AALIS 830-018. 41.15 832-01 C4115 g32-01 D. 4115 623-01 E41 15838.01 F. 41 15 835-01 G41 15 83601 H, 4115 837-01 ; ? & 41 36.414.02 411156601 4912 70-01 (USA) 41.11399-01 Neodle case with needles Glide plate 41.14.4001 (other countries) Attachment secew System 705H Hobbins, sixNeedle assortment Only use needles of System 130/705H. 40 16 086-01. Needle No. 60. 40 16 089-01. Needle No. 70. 40 16 092-01. Needle No. 80. 40 16 099-01. Needle No. 100. 40 16 102-01. Needle No. 110. 40 16 106-01. Needle No. 120. 40 15 819-01. Needle case containing 1 No. 70, 2 No. 80, 1 No. 90, 1 twin needle No. 80 with 2 mm needle gap. 40 16 119-01. Needle case containing 1 No. 80, 3 No. 90, 1 No. 100. 41 10 714-01. Needle case containing 3 No. 80, 2 No. 90 41.14 518-01. Needle case containing 2 No. 70, 6 No. 80, 2 No. 90. 41 14 703-01. Needle case containing needles with rounded tip, 2 No. 70, 3 No. 80. 41 16 284-01, Needle case containing stretch needles, 5 No. 90. 41 16 285-01. Needle case containing jeans needles, 2 No. 90, 2 No. 100, 1 No. 110. 41 16 285-02. Needle case containing jeans needles, 5 No. 90. 41 16 414-01. Needle case containing 1 No. 70, 2 No. 80, 1 No. 90, 1 twin needle No. 80 with 2 mm needle gap, 2 stretch needles, 1 No. 75, 1 No. 90, 2 jeans needles, 1 No. 90, 1 No. 100. 41 14 235-01. Twin needle No. 80, 2 mm needle gap. 41 14 235-02. Twin needle No. 80, 3 mm needle gap. 41 14 235-03. Twin needle No. 80, 4 mm needle gap. 41 11 621-01, Twin needle No. 90, 3 mm needle gap. 41.11 621-02, Twin needle No. 90, 4 mm necdle gap. 41.11 621-03. Twin needle No. 90, 2 mm needle gap. For parallel seams and raised seams. Maximum stitch width setting, 2.5 resp. 1.5 and 0. 41.11 622-01. Triplet needle No. 90, 3 mm needle gap. 41.11 622-02. Triplet needle No. 80, 2.5 mm needle gap. Maximum stitch width setting, 1.5 40 15 600-01. Thread reel pin. To be used when necessary for a third thread reel. The above-mentioned needles are suitable for our sewing machines. However, all types are not available on all markets. Read more about needles on pages 10, 11 and the next page.Extra accessories INCL d LAE = 41 12 683-01. Cutting needle No. 100 for sewing in 41 12 684-01. Wing needle produces a hemstitch effect. leather or thick skin. Can be used for zig-zag and pattem stitching, 41 14 541-01. Finger guard, 41 12 685-01, No. 80. 41 12 685-02, No. 90. 41 12 685-03, No. 100. Slotted needies for people with impaired vision. The needle eye is supplied with a slot, When threading, pass the thread along the needle, until a the thread glides into the slot.Extra accessories 41 11 384-01. Presser foot for 2 mm hemming. To be 41 11 385-01. Presser foot for 5 mm hemming. To be sewn with straight stitch or zig-zag. Stitch length 1.5, sewn with straight stitch, zig-zag or a decorative stitch. stitch width 1.5. 41 11 386-01. Presser foot for 3 mm scalloped hem. To _ 41.11. 387-01. Presser foot for 2 mm rolled hem. To be be sewn with zig-zag, stitch length 4.5, stitch width 3.75 sewn with zig-zag, stitch length 3, stitch width 3.5. and tight thread tension. Suitable for soft fabrics, Suitable for light fabrics 67Extra accessories 41 14 538-01. Presser foot with five holes for decorative stitching over yarn or for satin-stitching. 41 16 287-01. Thread the needle threader from underneath the presser foot and draw the threads down through the holes. 40 93 005-01. Presser foot for attaching braiding, which is inserted through a guide and attached with a straight stitch in the middle of the braiding. 68 40 93 022-01. Piping attachment. Insert the cord between the layers of the material 41 14 381-01. Presser foot for gathering. The fabric is gathered as it is sewn—the longer the stitch length, the fuller the gathering. The gathered fabric can be sewn simultaneously to another ungathered fabric.Extra accessories 40 15 237-01. Presser foot for sewing on large buttons 41.13 931-01. Marker presser foot. By using this foot you and buttons with high edges. can transfer markings from paper patterns to fabric, sew Point de Paris hemstitch and “miniature rugs” 41 12 745-01. Piping presser foot for fastening edging _41 11 395-01. Decorative stitch presser foot. Made of tape with a flat and a round part (piping). Only the round metal, grooved underneath to make room for close part will be visible when the tape is in place. seams. 6Extra accessories 41.11 882-01. Bias binder for edging with bias tape. Can 40 93 020-01. Ruffler. Can be set for gathering and be used for 8, 10, 12 and 15 mm folded tape and for pleating at every, every 6th or every 12th stitch. 22-24 mm unfolded tape. The stitch distance can be varied 40 15 813-01. Attachment for circular sewing. Stretch the 41 13 458-01, 30 mm (1 1/8"). 41 13 458-01, 45 mm fabric over an embroidery hoop, place a thumbtack in the (1 3/4”). Weaver's reed for rug sewing. Wind the yarn idle as a pivot and attach the guide over the pivot over the reed and sew in place, with straight stitch jumbtackExtra accessories 40 15 367-01. Hemstitcher. Put the fork between two layers of material, which are sewn tog straight stitches. (Note: In parts of US; 41 15 838-01. Stitch programmer I. a eet SA 41 14 294-01. Dual feeder. To be used for materials which are easily displaced, e.g. plastic, velvet, etc. Useful also for checked and striped fabrics. 41 15 839-01. Sti aExtra accessories A 40.93 015.01. Presser 41.11394-01. Presser foot 411454001. 40 15 395-01. Presser foot foot, extra narrow, for for extra fine straight Presser foot ‘with for narrow stitches, special straight stitching stitching in light fabrics. side slit ippers, welts or welting 4115 625.01 sch plate with round $119 $68.01, Plate for daring anim Foe making clog ar around Hes, needle hole, for straight stitching broidering with straight stitching example eyelets in bell, in very lox or light fabrics. ‘xpecaly i ight fabric i covered by a plate. Availabe erent hole-diameters 41.15 855-01. Plate for eyelets 4 mm. 41 15 855-02. Pate for eyelets 6 mim. Rss gi ad fi 4114 243.01 Ghie pate foci 12 09.01 ) C D Zipper ose 4015398-01 40.93 028-01 L_.. 4093 029.01 * 4093 030-01 41:14 244-01. Glide plate Frames for damning and embroidery featiesoor 4115 849.01, 4015 398-01 5.5.m diameter (21/8) Rreieea Dating fot 40 93 028-01 10 em diameter 4) 40 95 029-01 15cm diameter (69 40 93 030-01 20 em diameter (8°)Rapid seam guide: Built-in stitches Steaight stitching Joining Hems Pleats Topsitehing For coarse thread, coarser needle and tighter thread Basting Zigeeag Overcasting Gathering with elastic Edging with tape Sewing an lace ‘Applique Three-step zig-zag Overeasting inelastic, ight oF ceasily-frayed fabrics. Sewing terry cloth (towelling) Darning and mending Fy ey 28 29 30 a1 32 57,33 Stitch length. can be varied en Stitch length can be varied Stitch length 4-6, Light fabrics 3-4 “~ ox ”—N om era & Stitch length and stitch width can be varied Stitch length and stitch width ean be varied & & a Standard i presser foot \ 41 11 383-01 for normal fabrics. J Presser foot aizossor | for light fabrics, Standard presser foot 41 11383-01 for normal fabrics. Jw vii =a prc oot ssn il for thick fabrics. Standard presser foot 41.11 383-01 for normal fabrics. Presser foot 4112 938-01 {or light fabrics. Standard presser foot 4111 383-01, Utility prose foot 41'14 512-01 faisedscam preser so foots 138501 raaten it AI Standard presser foot Anirssso1 Utility Dresser foot 4114 51201 Presser foot 4112 988-01 aw for light fabrics.Rapid seam guide: Stitches on programmer A 4 i Pa < i i } x Overlock Joining and overcastng in Sewing knitted and elastic fabries “Mending seams in underwear, tricot and knits Reinforced elastic straight sti Toining of elastic fabrics. Extra strong for sewing, e. cerotches Topstitching Elastic blindstiteh Hemming inelastic fabrics Blind hem stitch Hemming in woven fabrics. Edge finishing 36 37 38 39 40 40 “The stitch length, can be shortened, ~~ > FE Shorter site| Tength gives greater elas faty Top. stitch ing 4 Crer et ® on AA a Unity presser foot Siiasizo1 Roller presser foot issorm — E ad Standard presser foot | 4111383-01 Uslity Dresser foot 4114 512-01 for thick fabrics hy Biindstitching presser foot Mia2801 | Blindstitching presser foot 4114 228-01 iRapid seam guide:Stitches on programmer B Double overlock 2 Utlty 8 Sews and avereasts seams in Dresser foot i one. 411451201 For stretch and non-stretch fabrics, particularly fabrics . Roller thar tend to fay Preser foot EB a apr 4 a Ric Rae 2 S| vsty Tope . preset foot Applgue work using cloth Sr165i201 m ested ther and skin. Standard preser mt toon 138550 Gtepuet | secs a My Double-seton stich “6 Standard Joining and overcastng in Pace one STI 38301 Decorative hems in soft fabric Presser fot 4112 988-01 forlight fabrics 5 Serpentine 8 Usaty a Daring, mending and sewing premer foot TH inlyera elastic and tot. 4114 512-01 reser footRapid seam guide: Stitches on programmer C ‘Shirving stitch Gathering over shirring clastic Also su ble for decorative Point de Paris hemstiteh Decorative hems. Applique work using cloth tape. Far skin and leather. Bridging stitch Joining two pieces of fabric with folded edges. Inserting lace and embroidery. Seam in lycra Lingerie stitch Joining and overcasting in ‘one, in ight or sheer fabrics for gathering u Usiity Dresser foot 4118 512-0 for decorative D stitches. Utility ester fot Bassi dp Standard presser foot 4011 383-01 With glide plate forsewing skin.) Standard Dresser foot LI 41138301 Standard presser foot 4111 383-01 for normal fabrics, oa] Presser foot 4112 988-01 for light fabrics.Rapid seam guide: Pattern stitches on programmers D to K. Raised seams, button- holing and sewing on buttons which are independent of stitch programmers Pattern stitches Programmer and color symbols in accordance With pattem scale om the machine. He | With twin needle: Color symbols | pattem scale. lex ~~ | Soom | | Reeth oa» | n = | | aes | boxe tee | | | ‘Stitch width dial 7 MO pulled ot tnd tea Tess Reinforced buttonboles | 53- ea ee» ‘Stitch width dial . 0; pulled out and iumed THe S40 Seng om buttons Feed doglowered Stitch wid tobe angled Unity reser foot Fi Saesizo, oe Mineo J z Raised seam attachment 4015427-01 Buttonhole foot 411165001 Buttonhole foot 4111 650-01 Presser foot sole tobe removed Button reed 411173201 10-be used for "etandeaway”Standardtillbehér Standardtilbehor Vakiotarvikkeet Standard accessories Standardzubehér 7 4111 383.01 4114 531-01 A samen 4112 897.01 Page 78 (Supplement to page 63) Accessoires standard Standaard toebehoren Accessori standard Accessorios standard aT 14 512-01 wry aot F 4117 379.01, ‘41 13 925.01 4112 989.0140 15 420.01 41 11732-01 4116249.01 & 4116 418-02 4111 866-01 41.14 401.01 41 11399-01 Page 79 (Supplement to page 64)