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LO16al Paris Voluminous Million Lashes mascara, $9; lorealparisusa.com.

MICHAEL REY III AT CHROMA MAKEUP STUDIO

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PATRICIA CENZI AT WARREN-TRICOMI SALON Greenwich's top nail star. I East Putnam Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830

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KATE SOMERVILLE AT KATE SOMERVILLE SKIN HEALTH EXPERTS Celebrity magnet Kate is known for instant results, an arsenal of high-tech equipment, and an addictive product line. lf she's not available, ask for Kelly Viavattine.

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TAMMY FENDER Holistic facials, healing hands, miraculous results from Palm Beach's beloved skin expert. 711 North Flagler Dr. West Palm Beach 33401 DEBBIE TEAVITT AT POLISH PARLOR Leavitt's services are speedy, performed with Sheswai, her line of ecofriendly polishes. One client likens her space to "a very fashionable f riend's boudoir." 859O Sunset Blvd., Ste.11 West Hollywood 90069 (310) 854-0511

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JOANNAVARGAS The city's fashion, social, and political sets trust Vargas for glowing skin achieved with natural products. 5Ol Fifth Ave., Ste.7O7 NYC 10017

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V\I\TS
LIFE AFTER

HARRY POTTER
INSIDE THE MOST GTAMOROUS PARTY OF THE

f;r

BEAUTY NEWS

YEAR

J.LO, BEYONCE, RIHANNA, TOM &GISELE..

SHATTERED
A WRITER
DISCOVERS HER FAMILY'S
SECRET PAST

,S

ING THE SIGNS

(S
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HE ONLY NEED THI

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Dermatologist Patricia Wexler, M.D., has been a fan of light therapy since receiving her GentleWaves amberlight device (the first commercial LED FDA-approved for diminishing fine lines) a little more than five years ago. It
claims to stimulate the mitochondria and promote collagen

production while simultaneously inhibiting MMPs, the

enzymes that lead to collagen breakdown. Wexler began treating patients with eczema, acne, and scarring, as well. She ushered patients brave enough to show up to her office with sunburns under the pulsing amber lights, too. "I knew it would decrease the amount of damage they d get to their

Anything inflammatory is a good indication for LED technology," she says. (In fact, LED therapy is frequently prescribed forjoint pain or injuries.) These days, "basically, any time we do a laser-Vbeam, Fraxel, CO2-we follow it with LED to speed the healing. We use it alone to reverse the appearance of dilated blood vessels and irregular pigmentacells.

bout a year
and a half ago, I was having a facial with Joanna Vargas in her

tion associated with sun damage."

Wexler now administers LED therapy below the neck, too, since, as she sayg "Skin is skin." Indeed, what good is a
smooth, even-toned face if the body doesn't match? Which is why I trotted, at a brisk clip, back to Joanna Vargas's spa as soon as I could. Until now, for anyone seeking full-body LED benefits, the best options have been either a constellation of panels maneuvered into place-shining over legs herg arms there----or a single light unit, used sequentially (and tediously) over each zone. "The clam," which Vargas unveiled in a dramatically darkened room, may change that. The gleaming intergalactic pod that sat before me earned its moniker simply because it really does look quite like a (sports car-sized) white clam. To clientg *Sleeping Vargas refers to it as the more enticing BeautyTreatment." Working with the scientists at Norlux, a leading manufacturer of LEDq Vargas armed hermachine with the red and infrared lights she has counted on as part of her facials for so many years, and applied for a patent for its design. "I asked the engineers to put reflectivematerialbetween the bulbs-so the lights on the top are refracting off the lights below," she explained. "So you're not just getting light from where the bulb is; it's literally encasing you in light." She'd been seeing particular interest from clients for whom "reversing the signs of sun damage all over the body is a big issue. Any doctor will tell you, it really starts to show in your 40s-how many times you've been burned on your back. People don't want wrinkles on their decollet6 because they didnt put sunscreen there when they were sixteen." The thought of a dermatologic

intimate suite of rooms in a building opposite Bryant Park. Several homemade organic maskg a tingly peel, and more than
afew extractions late4 she setmy facebeneath a slim, rectangularpanel of red and infrared lightmittingdiodes (LEDs). This was the final phase, the part of the treatrnent thatwould calm any inflammation and help ensure that I would walk out the door looking no worse-in fact, looking much better-than I had when I d walked in. "Would you like light on your chest, too, and maybe your hands?" she asked, wheeling over two more panels. Why not, I thought, rearranging my terry wrap andcarefully positioningmy handg palms down, next to each other on my lap. If these lights--{ocumented to increase cell metabolism, s@ healing and perhaps even lessen lurking sun damage-were good for my face, I figured they could only be good for my hands and decolletE (two prime premature-aging spots), too. Wouldnt it be great, Vargas and I mused, while I lay
very stillwitheyes closed beneath silvergoggles, if therewerea panel big enough to mver the entire body? Couldn't someone
take the desigrr of a tanningbed and, instead of skin-damaging UVlamps, fil itwith skin-friendlyLED lights? In Decembe4 Vargas called my office. "I made the bed," she said. Hmm? "The LED lightbd. Itwillbehereintwoweeks"
a means

This LED technology was originally developed for NASA as of growingplants aboard a shuttle in space. The way

"WANT TO SEE IT ON BEFCRE YCU GET IN?" ASKED VARGAS. "IT LIGHTS UP LIKE LAS VTGAS," SHE FLIPPTD A SWITCH, AND 5,OOO RED LIGHTS SNAPPTD TO ATTTNTION
similar to the process of photosynthesis: Precise wavelengths emitted by the tiny bulbs pass through the dermis, energizing injured cells and stimulating cellular activity. "If you have enough light, it will help the cellg in essence, breathe," says Rox Anderson, M.D., professor of dermatology at Harvard Medical School and director of the Wellman Center for Photomedicine at Massachusetts General Hospital. Dermatologistg and later facialistg caught on, using the gentle lights-in varying colors and wavelengths-for

time machine-one that could possibly prevent sun damage from ever

surfacing-was certainly seductive.

inwhich LED therapyworks in skin
is

Also appealing: "that glow" she kept talking about. "'Want to see it on before you get in?" asked Vargas.

"It

everything from reducing inflammation post-procedure to treating acne and improving skin texture and tone.

lights up like Las Vegas" She clicked open the lid (now it really looked like a clam) and flipped the switch. Nearly 5,000 highinput red and infrared lights silently snapped to attention. I slipped offmyclothes andclimbedinsidg excited aboutall of the neglected spots-my shoulderg upper back, the tops of my knees-the light would reach. The lid shut. It was a snug fit not a lot of wiggle room, though not uncomfortablg either. In an instant, I was ensconced in the bright glow of light the color of maraschino cherries. Discreet internal fans ensured

136

While specific studies are indeed outstanding, many skinthe temperature was kept cool. Vargas's prescribed 20 minutes went by relatively quickly. I zoned out peacefully, dreaming care professionals-and patients---continue to be encouraged of all of the premature aging I was so effortlessly combating. by what they consider tangible benefits.

Afterwardg I felt. . . nothing. I looked. . . the same. that's the thing with light therapy: To see resultg depending your specific goalg takes time and patience. Vargas is mending a series of eight to twelve weekly sessions-as
green tea mask, or even as a quick, LED-powered

But on recoman add-on after body treatments like microdermabrasion or her

AtKateSomerville'sMelrosePlaceskinclinic-arevolving
door of Hollywood's A-list-lights play a key role in her legendarily results-oriented treatments. "We've found the energy really matters in terms of efficacy," she says "There's so much out there that doesn't put out enough energy to make a difference." Of Omnilux's blue-and-red-light device, "We absoluteb see results with it. For acng it has changed our whole clinic." Somerville incorporates red lights into her body treatments

in the morning "before work." If that sounds like a lot, it is, but "I haven't had anyone not want to continue," she attests. Indeed, it seems just the opposite. Cornelia Guest

refresher

hasbeendutifullyhoppingintovargas'spodevery SUBTLTTY CAN BE HARD TC :ffi'ffiffffiJiigr;1:,ix?;:fjxx,,li,il?i. M rASU RE wH ERE BELI EVERS SEE A haveafreckledbosom,"'saysGuest,whogrewuprid- GLCW SKEPTICS SEE A GIMMICK ing horses competitively in the Palm Beach sunshine. to increase penetration of her dermal boosters-brightening, " When I used to ride, I always had a hunt cap on, and I d clarifying, and anti-aging serums-and to 'Just tone the skin." always put sunscreen on, but I'd get sunspotg right on the side of my face. This bed makes them so much lighter," she says. For bigger jobs-lax skin in need of a lift, for example-she admits, "there are better things out there, like ultrasound or "They are slowly, slowly going away." Titan [a deep-heating infrared laser]. If you had twins, don't Mother of two Nathalie Salame, who lives in London but expect your stomach to bounce back." finds herself in New York every couple of months, takes literSpeaking of bouncing back, no one was more surprised ally every opportunity she has to lay beneath Vargas's healing
lights.

Asprepforherweekend-longfortieth-birthdaypartyin than I to be lying

Mexico this past March, she went to Vargas's spa every day for two weeks. "I could see a difference in my arms, legs. It tightens," she says. "It really helped with mentation. We re building a house in Hawaii, and I want

put a light bed in." Makeup artist Gucci Westman was sold after a 20-minute

single stomach, pigto her Gosh, I skin and I a

nap in the clam reduced a fresh black-and-blue bruise on stomach "by 75 percent! That's what made me think, what is this doing for my skin?" Now she's made it "a thing do every week," and she says her pores look smallel her feels tighter overall. "The only thing I will say: I wish someone was rubbing my feet while I was in Personally, if my skin stayed pretty much the same simply stopped aging-i.e., if sunspots never surfaced, if remained relatively smooth and toned head-to-toe-I'd be very satisfied And therein lies the controversy: Subtlety can be hard measure. Where believers see a glow, skeptics see a "There's a lot of hocus pocus out there about them,"

there."

to gimmick. says Manhattan dermatologist Neil Sadick, M.D., who has authored several papers on red and blue light. "In terms of actual clinical efficacy, decreasing inflammation, treating acne, wound healing, and hair growth-that's where LEDs have good scientific basis." For patients with diffused sun damage or actinic keratosis, the rough growths that may develop into skin cancers, "they are very helpful in activating chemical sensitizers applied to the skin to kill off pre-cancerous cells." Howevet he continues, "It's hard to imagine that these lights

customer.

on my stomach with an arc of LED lights shining over my unclothed backside in front of aesthetician Joanna Czech.In her hotel-like spa suite at the Core Club on East Fifty-fifth Street, I was experiencing the Sapphire3 Oxylight body facial, an exhaustive procedure incorporating LEDs, microcurrentg lymphatic drainage, microdermabrasion, and oxygen therapy. A favorite of clients "Trudie" and "IJma," the treatment uses light to optimize the various procedures and help infuse active serums deeper into the skin. "This is a preventative thing more than anything else," Czech cheerfully sing-songed while vigorously dry-buffing the backs of my thighs. "Reversing aging, I'd say that's a very brave statement. Slowing down aging: definitely." Once I was suitably exfoliated, she moved on to lymphatic drainage by way of cold vacuum therapy ("Is it painful? Can we go deeper?"), pointing out a few stretch marks and capillaries along the way ("I feel this is something we could concentrate on"). After a blue-and-yellowJight interlude (to help diffuse the look of "those visible capillaries"), she covered my skin with a peptide-rich serum and picked up what looked like two hand-held headlights. They were clever little devices combining LEDs with microcurrents designed to stimulate

circulation, tighten, and lift. The sensation was prickly, like someone was pressing Lego pieces into my legs. "This improves the quality of the skin. It's not slimming but evening out. Sort of like you put on makeup-all of a sudden," said Czech. For the final pasg she moved a light panel into
position that appeared to be standard-issue LED-until it started misting me with chilly streams of oxygen, too. It was yet another way to push those serums (vitamins A and C this time) deeper into my skin. "Piece of fruit?" asked Czech, producing a bowl of berries. When it was all over, Czech came over and gave me a
squeeze. For the moment,

could be useful for collagen tightening or skin remodeling." But, as Wexler points out, "Infrared ligtrt is anti-inflammatory and we know inflammation is responsible for aging. could it not work on aging when inflammation ls

How aging?" "What's lacking is absolute proof," says Rox Anderson. "There's ample evidence that at the right wavelengths and at the right timing, LED can help skin under stress On normal skin, there's precious little evidence it does anything. I'm an incurable optimist. But I'm also a scientist. Studies need to be done."

pact.

I genuinely felt firmer, more comyour skin looks healthier, your body looks better," she said, pleased with her work. And then, with a nonchalant smilg she delivered the line I was getting so used to hearing: "I believe in that glow." n

"If

t37

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F'trChemical peels are not

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medium strengths. ln fact, the strongest type
of peel availabte, a phenol or deep pee[, can be done onty by a ptastic or facial ptastic surgeon. Performed

,'ffi

under anesthesia and boasting a downtime of about two weeks, pheno[ peets should only be done once in a lifetime and may cause demarcation issues.

Kate Somervitle Clinic-to-Go Resurfacing Peel Pads, $48, katesomerville.com

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