Coastal Geomorphology
Wave erosion landforms
Formation • Wave erosion landforms are created through a
of Wave series of processes driven by the energy of
waves interacting with coastal features. These
processes include hydraulic action, abrasion,
Erosion and weathering, which work together to shape
various coastal landforms such as cliffs, sea
Landforms caves, arches, stacks, and wave-cut platforms.
Below is a detailed examination of the formation
of these landforms step by step.
• Waves are generated primarily by wind blowing
over the surface of the ocean. The energy from
Understanding these waves is transferred to the shoreline when
Wave Energy they break upon it. The size and energy of waves
depend on several factors including wind speed,
duration, and fetch (the distance over which the
wind blows). Larger waves carry more energy
and have a greater potential for erosion.
Hydraulic Action
• Hydraulic action occurs when waves crash
against the shore, compressing air in cracks and
crevices within rocks. When the wave recedes,
this compressed air expands rapidly, causing
Erosion pieces of rock to break off. This process is
particularly effective in eroding softer rock
Processes types.
Abrasion
• Abrasion involves the grinding action of
sediment and rocks carried by waves as they
strike against coastal surfaces. This process can
wear down cliffs and other structures over time
as materials are hurled against them
• Sea Cliffs
• Sea cliffs are steep rock faces formed where waves
continuously attack a coastline made up of softer rock
types. Over time, hydraulic action creates notches at
the base of these cliffs. As these notches deepen due to
Formation ongoing erosion, sections of the cliff above become
unsupported and eventually collapse
of Specific
• Wave-Cut Platforms
• A wave-cut platform is a flat area that forms at the base
of a cliff as it retreats due to erosion. As waves erode
Landforms material from the cliff face, they create a gently sloping
surface that extends out into the sea
• Sea Caves
• When waves exploit weaknesses in rock formations
such as faults or joints they can create sea caves. These
caves develop as hydraulic action enlarges initial cracks
in coastal cliffs. Over time, continued wave action can
deepen these caves significantly.
Long-Term
Changes • Over long periods, coastal landscapes undergo
significant changes due to wave action. Irregular
and coastlines gradually straighten as headlands
receive more concentrated wave energy
Coastal compared to bays. Additionally, sediment
transport along coastlines can lead to beach
formation or alteration in response to seasonal
Dynamics changes in wave energy.
