Coastal morphodynamic variables and their influence on evolution

of coastal forms

Dr Aznarul Islam
Department of Geography, Aliah University, Kolkata

1. Definition
Coastal morphodynamics studies the dynamic evolution of bedform due to free and/or forced mechanism
over a wide range of spatial and temporal scales
“Coastal morphodynamics investigates the appearance and development of the morphologicalpatterns
observed on the continental shelf, from its offshore edge up to the beach face.” (Blondeaux, P,
Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, January 2001, Vol. 33, pp. 339-370
2. Terms related to coastal geomorphology

1 . Coastal zone: broad term for the area influenced by proximity to the coast; both the onshore and
offshore limits are (deliberately) imprecisely defined.
2 . Offshore zone portion of the profile where there is no significant transport of sediment by wave
action. The landward boundarycan be defined precisely as the transition to water depths less than
onehalf the wave length of large storm waves.
3 . Littoral zone portion of the coastal profile where sediment can be transported by wave action. The
seaward limit is defined by the water depth at which significant sediment transport by wave
action ceases (it can be equated with the boundary between the offshore and the nearshore) and
the landward limit is the limit of (normal) wave action.
4 . Nearshore zone portion of the profile extending from the limit of significant sediment transport
by waves to the low tide line. Note that where the offshore is defined as beginning at the seaward
edge of the breaker line, then this will also mark the seaward limit of the nearshore.
5 . Shoreface zone dominated by wave action from the offshore landward to the low tide line _
synonymous with the definition of nearshore.
6 . Shore or beach portion of the profile subject to wave action and which is exposed subaeriallyat
least some of the time. The seaward limit is defined by the spring low tideline and the landward

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 limit by the limit of swash uprush during _normal_ storms. The landward limit is often taken as
the vegetation line.
7 . Foreshore portion of the beach subject towave action during non-storm conditions
8 . .Backshore portion of the beach subject towave action only during storms. Duringnon-storm
conditions sand may bereworked by aeolian action. This is _thebeach_ for recreational purposes.
9 . Surf zone zone of broken waves (surf bores) extending from the breaker zone to the foreshore.
Varies with beach slope and wave conditions and will only be presentwhen waves break some
distance offshore.
1 0. Swash zone zone of wave run-up on the beach and return of water in the form of
backwash. It varies with wave and slope conditions.
1 1. Intertidal zone zone between high and low water (tide).
1 2. Shoreline can be defined instantaneously as the intercept of the mean water level along
the beach, but it is often used loosely as the swash limit or the landward edge of the backshore.

3. Factors of coastal development

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4. Morphodyanmic interactions

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5. Processes, forms and time

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 6. Impact of variables on morphodynamics

7. SHORELINE PROCESSES AND THE EVOLUTION OF COASTAL LANDFORMS

WATER WAVES are another agent of an EROSION, TRANSPORTATION and DEPOSITION of

sediments.
Along the shores of oceans and lakes waves break against the land building it up in some places
(depositing sediments) and tearing it down in others (eroding).

The ENERGY of the WAVES comes from the WIND.

Energy is used to: ERODE
TRANSPORT SEDIMENTS
DEPOSIT
WAVE Alternating rise and fall of the water surface, produced by the flow of wind across the water
surface.
Small local differences in air pressure create ondulations in the water surface.

It’s important to understand how waves travel and move sediments.

Waves are described or characterized by
WAVELENGHT Distance between identical parts of the wave.

CREST Highest portion of the wave with respect to the

horizontal
THROUGH Lowest portion of the wave with respect to the

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 horizontal
PERIOD Time it takes identical parts of successive waves to
pass a fixed reference point
HEIGHT Vertical distance between the crest and the
through.
It is a key factor in determining wave energy

OPEN OCEAN 2-5 m

HURRICANE 15 m or more
HIGHEST EVER 34 m (112 ft)

Waves travel between 30-90 km/hour

TSUNAMI. Results from a sudden displacement of seafloor (earthquake; fault; the collapse of a
caldera)
Wave height in open sea; 1 m or so.
Wavelength in open sea; 100 to 200 km.

MOVEMENT IN WATER IN A WAVE

A particle of water moves in an orbit or circular path as the waves passes. The particle essentially returns
to its original position after the wave has passed.

AT THE SURFACE The diameter of the orbital path is equal to the

height of the wave.
BELOW THE SURFACE The orbit decreases in size until the motion is
essentially gone at a depth equal to ½ of the
wavelength. This is the WAVE BASE

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WAVE REFRACTION
Most waves do not strike the shore directly, but rather meet it at an angle. When a wave approaches the
coast in this manner, one end of the wave encounters shallow water first and slows down, while the rest of
the waves is still in deeper water. Thus the part of the wave close to the shore slows down while the
remainder continues to advance at a con tact speed. As a result the wave close to the shore bend. This
process is called REFRACTION

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WAVE EROSION
Occurs at sea level. Undercuts exposed bedrock.
Waves break directly o the shoreline, and thus expend the greatest part of their energy in eroding land.

FEATURES CAUSED BY WAVE EROSION

WAVE-CUT CLIFF Formed by waves pounding against a rocky
coastline
WAVE-CUT TERRACE or PLATFORM Formed at the foot of a cliff.
Formed by wave erosion pushing the Wave-cut
cliff steadily back.
Features resulting from differential erosion of weaker sections of the rock
SEA NOTCHS Wave action may hollow out cavities
SEA CAVES
SEA ARCHS When erosion, cuts through a headlands
SEA STACKS The collapse of the roof of a sea arch leaves an
isolated mass of rock, in the front of the cliff.

Since the surging water of the breaking waves must cross this terrace before reaching the cliff, it looses a
certain amount of energy through turbulence and friction. So the farther the cliff retreats the less effective
are the waves eroding the cliff. If the sea level remains constant, the retreat of the cliff becomes slower
and slower.

EROSIONAL FEATURES

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SEDIMENT TRANSPORT
Sediment is transported along the shore in a ZIGZAG pattern during the wash-backwash flow of the
water. After the waves has washed up as far as it can go, the water returns to se by running down the
beach face by the shortest possible route; straight downhill to the shoreline not back along the oblique
route it came up (refraction). The net effect of this motion is to move the sand along the beach face. This
transportation process is called LONG-SHORE DRIFT or CURRENT.

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FEATURES CAUSED BY DEPOSITION OF SEDIMENTS

BEACH Any strip of sediment that extends from the low-water line
inland to a cliff or zone of permanent vegetation. Built of
material eroded by waves from the headlands, and material
brought down by rivers that carry the products of
weathering and erosion from the land masses.
Areas that are protected from the full force of water
waves. It’s continually modified by wave and current
erosion.
SPIT A narrow ridge or embankment of sediment forming a
finger-like projection from the shore into the open ocean.
Typically develops when the sediment being carried by
long-shore drift is deposited where water becomes deeper,
such as the mouth of a bay.
BAYMOUTH BAR or BAY A ridge, commonly exposed, of sand extending partially
BARRIER
TOMBOLO Beach of sand or sand that connects two islands or an island
with mainland.
TIED ISLAND
BARRIER ISLAND Breached baymouth bar.
Most common North America feature of the East
(Atlantic City, NJ; Miami Beach, coast. 1300 km from Long Island to Florida and the Gulf
FL; and Galveston, TX) Coast (295)
First line of defense against storm waves and hurricane.
LAGOONS Isolated bays

DEPOSITIONAL FEATURES

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MAIN TYPES OF COASTLINES

SUBMERGENT Flooded Sea-level is relatively raised

EMERGENT Exposed Sea level is relatively lowered.

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 TWO MAIN TYPES OF COASTLINE

SUBMERGENT COASTLINES.
Previously dry land that has been recently drowned either by land subsidence or a rise in sea level. Their
appearance is controlled by the erosional processes prior to the rise of the sea level. Irregular coastlines.

EROSIONAL PROCESS PRIOR TO THE TYPE / Features

RISE OF SEA
STREAM EROSION ESTUARIES
They extend inland
Flooded stream valley
V-shaped passages.
Fresh-water from the river mixes with sea-
water (brackish water)
Protected environment.
Reach marine life
GLACIAL EROSION FJORDS
They extend inland.
Flooded glacial valley
Forms very steep passages (U-shaped).
Deep long narrow arm of he sea surrounded by
high rocky cliffs or mountainous slopes
Very rugged shoreline.

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SUBMERGENT COASTLINES

SUBMERGENT COAST MAP (ESTUARY)

DELTA.
A delta is a thick accumulation of sediments at the mouth of a river.
As the shoreline is built has built outward, the river has shifted from one position to another.
This deposition has made the area so flat that the river has commonly split into a number of channels,
each of which carries a part of the river water into the ocean (The Gulf). These are
called DISTRIBUTARIES (PASSES).
Part of the sediment brought down b the distributaries is accumulated in the form of offshore islands
(sand bars).
Waves and tides will modify and remove some of the delta front.

MISSISSIPPI RIVER DELTA. Each year the river discharges water into the Gulf at an average rate of
15,360 m3 per second with 684,528,300 tons of sediment (at the active Balize Delta Lobe). Dariry
average discharge of 1-1.5 million tons of sediments)

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EMERGENT COASTLINE
Land formed under water that recently has become dry land, either by uplift of the land or drop of the sea
level.
Generally straight
Characterized by the presence of extensive elevated Wave-Cut Platforms, Terraces or Platforms and
Wave cut cliffs.
Erosion is the dominant agent.

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EMERGENT COAST (SIMPLIFIED) MAP

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STAGES OF COAST MODIFICATION (SUBMERGENT COASTLINES)
When waves break against headlands most of their energy dissipates. Therefore the waves inside adjacent
bays have lower energy and as a result sediments are deposited in the bays. As headlands erode and bays
fill with sediment, an irregular coastline eventually becomes smooth
EARLY Erosional features are dominant
Landforms: sea cliffs and stacks, wave-cut
platforms, etc.
Depositional features not common.
Highly irregular coastline
MIDDLE Depositional features begin to appear; beaches,
spits.
Broad wave-cut platforms are common
LATE Depositional features are dominant.
Landforms: extended spits, Baymouth bars,
beaches, Lagoons, etc.
Reduced headlands.
Nearly linear shorelines.

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